THE NEMOS NEWS - Orchid Societies Council of Victoria Inc

THE NEMOS NEWS
March 2015. Issue no. 264
The monthly newsletter of the
North East Melbourne Orchid Society Inc.
President: Michael Coker
Secretary: Glenda Warren
Editor: Brian Milligan ([email protected])
NEMOS meets on the third Monday of each
month at the Marwal Centre,
9-11 Marwal Avenue, Balwyn North (Mel. 46B3). Culture Corner, the early session for new
growers, commences at 7.00 pm.
The main meeting begins at 7.30 pm.
Visitors are welcome.
THE NEXT MEETING
The Main Item of the Evening will be
presented by Brendan Larkin, who will tell us
about Australian Native Dendrobiums - What
to look for in their Hybrids.
In Culture Corner (7.00 pm start), Alan
Hope’s topic will be Cymbidiums and
Zygopetalums.
IMPORTANT NOTICE – READ THIS!
To comply with Marwal Centre regulations, we
must vacate the hall (and premises) by 10.00
pm. It was therefore decided at the last meeting
that in future:
The MAIN MEETING will start at 7.30 pm,
CULTURE CORNER will start at 7.00 pm,
and the meeting will be CLOSED at 9.30 pm.
As usual, Brian Milligan will open the Hall at
6.30 pm but MORE HELP will be needed to
set up the show and sales benches in time for
Culture Corner to begin at 7.00 pm. Culture
Corner will need to end by 7.20 pm to allow
the participants 10 minutes to peruse the show
and sales benches before the main meeting
begins at 7.30 pm. All exhibits must be
benched no later than 7.20 pm.
Supper will be served at 9.30 pm, but
exhibitors must first remove their plants
from the hall before partaking. Help will be
needed to clear the hall because ALL OF US
MUST LEAVE THE PREMISES by 10 pm!
PRESIDENT’S REPORT – MARCH 2015
Dear NEMOS Members,
Editor: Brian Milligan
Page 1
Thanks to everyone who helped us meet our
target of leaving The Marwal Centre by
10:00 pm at our last meeting. We will need to
do this from now on unless we can get an
extension from the Council to allow us to stay
later – but I don’t have high hopes we will be
successful. Therefore – as discussed at the last
meeting, and as Brian has mentioned elsewhere,
we will trial starting the main meeting at 7:30
pm, so please make sure you’re on time!
Thanks also to the Members who brought back
seedling competition plants to discuss at the last
meeting. There were a range of plants to look
at – from the Zygoneria Zest, to the Oncidesa
Golden King and up to the neopabstopetalum
from 2014. Our Members are using a range of
potting mixes, from a gravel base, to a coir &
perlite mix. There is also a clear range of
growth stages – some are distinctly smaller, and
some are quite large. I have one in spike – so
we’ll see what the flowers look like, probably at
our April meeting. Don’t worry if the leaves on
your plants are becoming spotted – that’s not
unusual for a neopabstopetalum, but perhaps try
to keep the leaves on the dry side. My Mother
keeps her plant indoors and only waters it into
the base of the pot – so the leaves on hers look
quite clean.
We are looking to arrange a Bus trip in May.
We don’t yet have specific details on precise
dates or costs, but the Committee will work on
this and get back to Members with a proposal.
It certainly hasn’t been a scorcher of a summer
as the Bureau predicted last year – and thank
goodness for that. Heat really is the enemy of
so many of our cooler growing orchids – like
masdevallias and odontoglossums. Maybe our
next seedling competition should be something
like an odontoglossum-type? The Committee
will look into this and see what’s available.
Bye for now, see you in March.
Kind regards.
MJC
SPECIES SOCIETY SHOW & SALE DAY
Please don’t forget the Open Day of the Orchid
Species Society of Victoria on Sunday 15
March (9.00 am until 2.00 pm) at the City of
Whitehorse Function Room, 82 Jolimont Road,
Forest Hill (Melways 62-E4). Please note that
the event will be held on the day before our
March meeting. If you are not an OSSV
member, there is an admission charge of $5.
THE NEMOS NEWS: March 2015
The Open Day is a great event on the
Melbourne orchid calendar, primarily because
of the orchids that will be on show and the
opportunity to add to your collections from the
many vendors that will be at the Open Day. It’s
a great opportunity to buy orchids, both species
and hybrids, that are difficult to come by
elsewhere. Try to arrive promptly at 9.00 am,
as previous experience has shown that the best
bargains and rarest plants are usually gone by
10 am!
BM
Creek’ AM/OSCOV, grown by John Martin and
Andrew Francis.
Victorian Any Other Hybrid of the Year was
Bulbophyllum Elizabeth Ann ‘Buckleberry’,
grown by M. Coker.
VICTORIAN ORCHIDS of the YEAR 2014
The overall champion orchid, chosen by
members of the Orchid Societies Council of
Victoria’s Judging Panel on 15 February, was
Paphiopedilum
micranthum
‘Puffclere’
HCC/OSCOV, grown by Bill and Jan Miles.
Victorian Species Orchid of the Year was
Habenaria medusa ‘Gem’ HCC/OSCOV,
grown by M. Coker.
The Best Cultured Orchid of the Year was
Dendrobium tetragonum var. melaleucophyllum
‘Dawkins’ HCC/OSCOV, CC/OSCOV, grown
by M. Dawkins.
The Victorian Australian Native Orchid of the
Year was Sarcochilus Erin ‘Botanic Ridge’,
grown by G. Simmons.
Victorian Cymbidium of the Year was
Cymbidium Laramie Lady ‘Tee Pee’
HCC/OSCOV, grown by Terry Poulton.
Victorian Laeliinae of the Year was Cattleya
Dal’s Magic ‘Andrew’ HCC/OSCOV, grown by
John Martin and Andrew Francis.
Victorian Masdevallia of the Year was
Masdevallia Carnival ‘Jester’ AM/OSCOV,
grown by Marita Anderson and Clive
Watermann.
Victorian Oncidiinae of the Year was Gomesa
Dark Sun ‘St. Austel’ HCC/OSCOV grown by
M. & B. Larkin.
Victorian Paphiopedilum Hybrid of the Year
was Paphiopedilum Village Passport ‘Castle
Editor: Brian Milligan
Page 2
Victorian Award of Distinction of the Year was
Cymbidium Justa Kiwi Girl ‘NEMOS’
HCC/OSCOV, AD/OSCOV, grown by F. & J.
Coker.
Victorian Award of Quality of the Year was
Paphiopedilum Black Spider AQ/OSCOV,
grown by John Martin and Andrew Francis.
Victorian Best Cultured Orchid Hybrid of the
Year was Dendrobium Mousmee ‘McClintock’
THE NEMOS NEWS: March 2015
HCC/OSCOV, CC/OSCOV, grown by M.
Coker.
Den. Mousmee ‘McClintock’ (M. Coker)
NEMOS SHOW DATES FOR 2015
Winter Show. Set-up is on Friday 26 June.
Open to the public on Sat. 27 and Sun. 28 June.
Spring Show. Set-up is on Fri. 18 September.
Open to the public on Sat. 19 and Sun. 20
September.
NEW MEMBER
We welcome Beryl Baker of North Balwyn to
our Society, and hope that she enjoys our
meetings and soon makes friends among our
members. You’re a near neighbour of mine,
Beryl, and my wife (Lorraine) and I would be
pleased to show you how we grow our orchids
some time.
BM
AUSTRALIAN NATIVE DENDROBIUMS
One of NEMOS Orchid Culture Notes
There are well over a thousand species of
dendrobium orchids to be found growing in
nature throughout Asia and Australia. More
than 60 species are native to Australia, most
growing in coastal New South Wales and
Queensland, although two species occur in
Victoria and one in Tasmania. Many Australian
native dendrobium species and their hybrids are
suitable for growing in Victoria under shade
house conditions or in a garden situation where
they are sheltered from frost and direct sunlight.
Over a thousand hybrids are now available, with
flowers of nearly all colours, shapes and sizes.
Potting. While a few species grow best when
mounted on hardwood mounts or on tree fern
slabs, the majority of Australian dendrobium
species and hybrids grow well when potted in a
4:1-mix of pine bark (5-10 mm) and river
pebbles (5 mm). The weight of the pebbles
helps to stabilise the pot, which otherwise may
topple over, especially when the plant is in
bloom.
Editor: Brian Milligan
Page 3
Black plastic squat pots with plenty of drainage
holes are ideal. It is important not to use too
large a pot - one that will comfortably
accommodate the roots and allow enough space
for two year's growth is large enough.
Dendrobiums are best re-potted after they have
flowered, just as their new growths begin to
appear, generally between October and early
December. If their roots are in good condition,
simply transfer the plant to a larger pot and fill
in with new mix. If some of the roots show
signs of decay, remove the dead or dying roots
and all the old potting mix and re-pot the plant
in fresh mix.
Light and Air Movement. All dendrobiums
grow and flower better if grown where they
receive diffuse light (approximately 50%
sunlight) between spring and autumn. Provide
them with as much sunlight as possible during
winter. They grow best if their pots are
suspended near the roof of the shade house so
that they receive good light and plenty of air
movement.
Australian native dendrobiums
dislike being continually wet, especially in
winter, so move their plants under the eaves of
your house at that time, unless your shade house
has a solid roof. You will also need to provide
your plants with some protection from frost if
you live in a frost-prone district.
Watering. During summer native dendrobiums
require frequent watering, especially in hot
weather. However, they should not be kept
continually wet and grow best if the mix is
allowed to dry briefly before watering again. In
winter, much less water is needed, once a week
being enough for flowering-sized plants grown
under cover.
Fertilising. Australian native dendrobiums
may be fertilised in two different ways or by a
combination of both. One option is to apply
granules of a slow-release fertiliser, such as
Osmocote-Plus®, to the top of the mix in
October (tap the rim of the pot so that the
fertiliser enters the mix). The other is to apply a
weak solution of a liquid fertiliser at fortnightly
intervals between October and April. Use
liquid fertilisers at only half of the
manufacturer's recommended concentration.
Potassium-rich fertilisers, such as Campbell's
A®, generally result in better flowering. NEMOS
THE NEMOS NEWS: March 2015
POTTING MIXES FIFTY YEARS AGO
Today the most popular component of orchid
potting mixes is pine bark, followed by coconut
fibre (coir). In fact, most growers use pine bark
or coconut fibre alone but still call it a potting
“mix”. Things were different 50 years ago
when tan bark or osmunda fibre were major
components of potting mixes for orchids, and
pine bark or coir didn’t even get a mention!
I recently came across a small booklet (The
Orchid Festival) issued by the Victorian Orchid
Club in conjunction with its annual orchid show
in 1963. It contained an article on orchid
culture in which the author recommended the
use of a potting mix for cymbidiums comprising
tan bark (4 parts), leaf mould (2 pts.), sharp
sand (2 pts.) and old cow manure (½ part). Tan
bark is wattle bark from which the tannins have
been extracted for use in tanning leather. I
doubt whether tan bark is available today,
because so-called “vegetable” tanning has been
largely replaced with “mineral” tanning with
chromium salts.
For re-potting cypripediums (now known as
paphiopedilums), a mix comprising Osmunda or
Todea fibre (2 pts.), tan bark (2 pts.), leaf mould
(2 pts.), sharp sand (2 pts.) and sphagnum moss
(1 part) was recommended. Osmunda is the
collective name for a group of American
ornamental ferns – the convoluted, wiry roots
were exported to England (and Australia) and
sold as Osmunda fibre. Todea barbata is an
Australian fern presumably used as an
alternative. Both have long since been
supplanted by other materials.
The Orchid Festival also contains a colour
photograph of a yellow odontoglossum hybrid
(Sunfly), to which the 11 judges of the former
VOC Judging Panel awarded a First Class
Certificate (85.2 points) in 1953.
BM
COMMON ORCHID PESTS:
SYMPTOMS, DESCRIPTIONS, CONDITIONS
and TREATMENT. Part 1.
by John Krens
This summary is based on a variety of available
sources (thank you all who unknowingly
contributed) and covers the most common
orchid pests, specifying for each how to
recognize their presence (Symptoms), who or
what is the cause (Description), under which
circumstances they occur (Conditions) and how
to handle the problem (Treatment). Pests
Editor: Brian Milligan
Page 4
covered in Part 1 are Snails & Slugs,
Caterpillars & Weevils, Cockroaches &
Crickets. Parts 2 and 3 deal with Mealy Bugs &
Scale, Mites, Aphids, Thrips, Woodlice,
Millipedes & Earwigs, Ants, Codlin Moth,
Dendrobium Beetle, Rats & Mice, and
Possums.
GENERAL COMMENT:
Spread of Diseases. All sap-sucking and planteating pests bring the danger of spreading
various diseases, in addition to the
direct damage they do, making it even
more important to control them.
Biological Control of insect pests
constitutes a subject by itself and is
therefore ignored in the descriptions
below.
Pressure Packs: when using pressure packs to
spray pests, remember to keep the nozzle at
least 30 cm from the plant, to avoid frost
damage from evaporative cooling or chemical
burning from drops of fluid. Safety
Precautions: when using poison sprays
(especially systemic insecticides), make sure to
follow the safety instructions (protective
clothing, gas mask and gloves, and to spray in
windless conditions. remember. After applying
toxic sprays, shower and put on fresh clothing.
SNAILS & SLUGS - Symptoms: Slime trails
and damaged young growth (holes in pseudobulbs, flower spikes and buds).
Description: Slugs and garlic snails attack
mostly young root tips, often causing
considerable damage before being noticed,
while snails prefer to dine on young growths
and flower buds. They can
spread diseases. Nightly
inspections may reveal the
culprits (< 10% of slugs
only) and continual treatment
is the only way of control.
Conditions: Slugs and snails like humid
conditions; they prefer to hide in the mix or
under cover and generally feel at home with
orchids.
Treatment: Liquid Metaldehyde is the only
certain way of killing the inhabitants of the mix,
while snail pellets can control the snails (in
humid conditions pellets may become mouldy,
with some danger of the mould spreading).
Garlic snails and also slugs may also be
controlled using “traps” (slices of apple or
THE NEMOS NEWS: March 2015
lemon on the mix) which can be turned over in
the morning to remove the catch hiding under
there. According to some sources diluted coffee
(50%), mixed with about 3% methylated spirits,
sprayed monthly can also be used to control
them (is toxic and also works as repellent). Beer
in a can or jar is suggested to trap/drown slugs.
WEEVILS
&
CATERPILLARS
Symptoms: Chunks eaten from leaves, buds
and flowers (mainly flowers) without signs of
snails or their trails. Description: Weevils
burrow into the mix and come out at night (the
time to spot them). Many cater-pillars blend in
and are difficult to spot. Both attack leaves and
the weevil grubs can attack the root tips.
Conditions: most active in warm weather.
Treatment: Watering with a solution of
insecticidal soap will kill the weevil grubs,
while the caterpillars can be removed by hand
or killed with an insecticide such as carbaryl.
COCKROACHES
&
CRICKETS
Symptoms: Damaged cattleya flowers, plants
deteriorating.
Description: Cockroaches and
crickets feed at night and hide
during day. They can seriously
damage the root tips (although
crickets less often) and cattleya
flowers. A flashlight at night may reveal the
cockroaches scurrying away.
Conditions: Cockroaches like warm, dry
conditions. Cold winters will help in their
control.
Treatment: Both insects can be controlled by
trapping them with potato slices slightly
hollowed at bottom (check traps in morning) or
with commercially available poisoned bait,
contact poisons like Roach & Ant Killer (Yates)
sprayed on pots, benches and walls or by using
pybuthrin powder or pyrethrum.
Parts 2 and 3 of this series by John Krens
(Editor of the Melbourne Eastern Orchid
Society newsletter) will follow in the April and
May issues.
MILTONIA, another Cool-Growing GENUS
Last month I wrote about zygopetalums, which
may be grown in a simple shade-house under
the same conditions as cymbidiums. They are
particularly useful, as they often flower in
February and March when few if any
cymbidiums are in flower.
Editor: Brian Milligan
Page 5
Many miltonias also grow and flower under the
same conditions as cymbidiums, and several of
my hybrids are currently in bud. (For many
years I used the term Brazilian miltonias to
distinguish them from the Colombian miltonias,
which require a minimum temperature of about
15°C to grow and flower well. However the
latter have been transferred to the genus
Miltoniopsis, so the Brazilian/Colombian
distinction is no longer necessary).
The most well known species is Miltonia
spectabilis, a native of the Organ Mountains
(and other regions) in eastern Brazil. My plant
usually flowers in January and February, and
has flowers with creamy petals & sepals, and a
pink labellum.
Miltonia spectabilis
Most orchid books feature Miltonia spectabilis
var. moreliana but that variety has now been
given its own specific name, Miltonia
moreliana.
Its flowers, produced several
months later than M. spectabilis, have purple
petals & sepals and a plum-coloured lip.
Miltonia hybrids are generally seen on our
show-benches more often than are the species
from which they were bred. Miltonia Bluntii
(M. spectabilis x M. clowesii) is a natural
hybrid, sometimes mistakenly exhibited as a
species (M. bluntii).
Two other common
hybrids are M. Anne Warne (M. Bluntii x M.
spectabilis) and M. Guanabara (M. Anne Warne
x M. regnellii). I also grow Miltonia Goodale
Moir (M. flavescens x M. clowesii) but, as yet,
only at a minimum temperature of 10°C.
Miltonias grow quite well for me when potted
in medium-sized pine-bark, once with added
sphagnum moss although I gave that up during
the drought years when I could no longer buy
moss. The plants should be watered and
THE NEMOS NEWS: March 2015
fertilised regularly between spring and autumn
but need less water during winter.
BM
Miltonia Guanabara
Miltonia Goodale Moir
SHOW-BENCH RESULTS for FEBRUARY
OPEN SECTION
INTERMEDIATE CYMBIDIUM HYBRID
1st. C. (Golden Elf x lancifolium) R. Rowlands
AUSTRALIAN NATIVE HYBRID
1st. Sarco. (Cherie x Star Struck)
M. Pender
LAELIINAE ALLIANCE HYBRID (Small)
1st. Cattleya Regal Gold
M. Coker
2nd. Cattleya Lana Coryell
M. Coker
rd
3 . Cattlianthe Fitz Eugene Dixon
A. Hope
LAELIINAE ALLIANCE HYBRID (Novelty)
1st. Rsc. Chinese Bronze
F. & J. Coker
2nd. Cattleya Lulu ‘Pink Blush’
S. Giarrusso
3rd. Cattlianthe Fitz Eugene Dixon Paradise’
S. Giarrusso
DENDROBIUM HYBRID
1st. D. (victoriae-reginae x laevifolium) =
Victoria Pinky
A. Hope
MASDEVALLIA HYBRID
1st. John Tomasche ‘Lou Reed’
M. Coker
nd
2 . Parlatoriana
B. & L. Milligan
ONCIDIINAE ALLIANCE (Miltoniopsis)
1ST. M. Crimson Cascade
F. & J. Coker
2nd. M. Lycaena
M. Coker
3rd. M. Jersey ‘Pinky’
F. & J. Coker
ONCIDIINAE ALLIANCE (Exhibition Style)
1st. Oncidesa Golden King
B. & L. Milligan
ONCIDIINAE ALLIANCE (Any Other Style)
1st. Brassidium Bartley Schwartz
B. & L. Milligan
PAPHIOPEDILUM HYBRID (Maudiae Style)
1st. (Black Jazz x Hsinying Web)
M. Coker
2nd. & 3rd. Hsingying Citron x Hsinying
Makasun)
J. Skews
PAPHIOPEDILUM HYBRID (Novelty Style)
1st. Iantha Stage
M. Coker
nd
2 . (Honey x rothschildianum)
M. Coker
3rd. Rolfei ‘Vampira’
M. Coker
Editor: Brian Milligan
Page 6
PAPHIOPEDILUM SPECIES
1st. P. primulinum ‘album’
M. Coker
2nd. P. tonsum
A. Hope
rd
3 . P. barbatum
A. Hope
PHALAENOPSIS HYBRID
1st. Malibu Victory
A. Hope
2nd. Spica
P. & G. Young
VANDACEOUS ALLIANCE HYBRID
1st. Vandachostylis Lou Sneary
M. Coker
SPECIES: AMERICAN
1st. Oncidium incurvum
S. Giarrusso
2nd. Psychopsis papilio
M. Coker
rd
3 . Prosthechea cochleata
B. & L. Milligan
SPECIES: ASIAN
1st. Habenaria medusa
M. Coker
2nd. Phalaenopsis venosa
A. Hope
3rd. Dendrobium lawesii
A. Hope
SPECIES: ANY OTHER
1st. Stenoglottis woodii
B. & L. Milligan
nd
2 . Aeranthes grandiflora
B. & L. Milligan
ANY OTHER HYBRID
1st. Phragmipedium Living Fire S. Tsoumbakos
2nd. Zygo. Imagination
B. & L. Milligan
rd
3 . Epi. Seta Raspberry
S. Giarrusso
SEEDLING FLOWERING FIRST TIME
1st.
Paphiopedilum (Hsinying Citron x
Hsinying Makajun)
J. Skews
INTERMEDIATE SECTION
AUSTRALIAN NATIVE SPECIES
1st. Cadetia taylori
M. & R. Thomson
SPECIES: AMERICAN
1st. Gomesa flexuosa
I. Forrest
NOVICE SECTION
no entries
THE BIG WINNERS
BEST IN OPEN SECTION & JUDGES’ VOTE
Paphiopedilum Iantha Stage
Michael Coker
BEST IN INTERMEDIATE SECTION
Gomesa flexuosa
Ian Forrest
BEST SEEDLING FLOWERING FIRST TIME
Paphiopedilum (Hysinying Citron x Hsinying
Makasun)
John Skews
POPULAR VOTE
Cattleya Regal Gold ‘Gold Splash’
M. Coker
BEST CULTURE
Paphiopedilum Iantha Stage
Michael Coker
CLUB CULTURAL CERTIFICATES
Michael Coker was awarded NEMOS Cultural
Certificates for his beautifully grown plants of
Paphiopedilum Iantha Stage and Cattleya Regal
Gold ‘Gold Splash’.
THE NEMOS NEWS: March 2015
MICHAEL COKER
SOME ORCHIDS FLOWERING IN FEBRUARY 2015
ORCHID
COMMENTS
PICTURE
Cool/cold growing
Masdevallia Hot Shot
‘Stirling’
I purchased this Mazzy from Mt Beenak nursery
about 4 years ago. It flowers regularly, and usually
has at least 1 flower open for around 6 months of
the year. It also grows quite quickly into a
specimen plant
Cattleya Regal Gold
‘Gold Splash’
I purchased this plant from Castle Creek nursery
about 6 years ago. Castle Creek grow their
Laeliinae without any heat – and being near
Shepparton, it gets very cold at night during Winter.
This plant regularly sends up multiple stems, and is
quite a show when in full flower
Dendrobium Mingle’s
Sapphire
This Dendrobium is a primary hybrid cross between
ceraula and victoria-regina, but has intensified the
colours of each parent. It can be grown stone cold
in Melbourne, provided it’s not too wet on Winter
nights. It has quite long-lasting flowers – and is in
flower for around 6 months of the year
Warm/hot growing
Clowesetum Jumbo
Eden
I purchased this plant at the Singapore World
Orchid Conference in late 2011. It lived in
quarantine at the AQIS Knoxfield facility for about 9
months before being released to me. It is a cross
between Clowesia Rebecca Northen and
Catasetum barbatum. These plants need heat but
a drier Winter. They often send up 3-4 flower stems
per bulb
Miltoniopsis Lyceana
‘Stamperland’
Miltoniopsis are also known as Colombian
Miltonias. They need much more heat than
Brazilian Miltonias, but not too much, otherwise
their leaves tend to spot like a Zygotetalum. A
minimum of 8-10 degrees should be OK, and a
maximum of 30 should see them happy
Dendrochilum
uncatum
This orchid is a very pretty species from The
Philippines and Taiwan. It has a smaller leaf than
many Dendrochilums, but forms a specimen very
quickly, and it is fairly widely-available from
nurseries in Victoria. I grow it at a minimum of
about 12 degrees
Editor: Brian Milligan
Page 7
THE NEMOS NEWS: March 2015

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