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10Top places to visit in Zagreb

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ŠETNJA ZAGREBOM | STROLL AROUND ZAGREB
Top
places to visit in Zagreb
Uglavnom tradicionalnih, staromodnih, s okusom secesije koji se
ovdje, osobito u ranu jesen, javlja s posebnom slatkoćom, pa vam
se čini da živite u velikom kolaču sa šlagom. I premda nas pogađa
recesija i muči stotinu stvari, uvijek ćemo naći vremena za kavicu, za
knjigu, za prijatelja s kojim ćemo izmjenjivati vječne gradske priče jer,
vrijedi napomenuti, ovdje i dalje svatko zna sve o svakome! Jednako
tako, naći ćemo koji sat za izložbu, za šetnju, za samotno lutanje
tugaljivim mjestima, uz neizbježne uzdahe da je nekoć sve bilo bolje,
znajući da nije tako i da su živahan rast i bujanje našega grada najbolji
dokaz za suprotno. No, ipak…
Tekst I Text: Milana Vukovi Runji
NEIZBJEŽNIH
ZAGREBAKIH
MJESTA
Mostly traditional, old-fashioned, with a
touch of art deco; Zagreb has a unique
sense of comfort, particularly in the
early autumn giving you the feeling you
live in a big cake topped with cream!
And, although we have all been hit by
the recession and have to worry about
a million things, there’s always time for
a cup of coffee, a book or a friend with
whom one can exchange the neverending city stories - in this city everyone
knows everyone! There will always be
an hour or two for an exhibition, a stroll
around the city, a walk in solitude through
the quieter places and those unavoidable
sighs intended to express how everything
used to be better ‘’back then’’, even
though we know that’s not the case and
the lively development of this city just
goes to show the opposite. However…
Fotografije I Photo: Ines Novkovi
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ŠETNJA ZAGREBOM | STROLL AROUND ZAGREB
KAFIĆI BULDOG I FLORES
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Zagreb je oduvijek bio prijestolnica kafića, točnije, mnogo toga važnog
odvijalo se najprije po kavanama, a zatim, u moderna vremena, po
kafićima. Zanimljivo je da neki kafići, poput mitske Zvečke, koja je
formirala rock-kulturu Zagreba 80-ih, i dalje postoje, ali više nitko u nju
ne zalazi, čak ni zbog sentimentalnih razloga. Hiroviti Zagrepčani mijenjaju kafiće kao čarape i to što ste jedne sezone vlasnik najposjećenijeg
mjesta u gradu ne znači da ćete biti i druge. Buldog je, sa sasvim
solidnim izborom piva već godinama, jedna od omiljenijih lokacija
najraznovrsnijih likova, pozornica raznih događaja, koncerata i promocija. Prošle su zime, koja je nalikovala na ledeno doba, u Buldogu
popijeni hektolitri groga i punča, dok su vani temperature padale na
-20 stupnjeva Celzijevih. Odmah iza ugla nalazi se sasvim drukčiji kafić,
Flores, koji je svoju reputaciju stekao ukusnim kavama, macchiattima,
kakaima, čajevima s madlenicama u maniri Marcela Prousta, najboljim
malim sendvičima u gradu, kao i kolačima. U još prilično zadimljenom
gradu Flores je odabrao da se u njemu ne puši. Naravno, osim Buldoga
i Floresa, u samom srcu grada smješteno je još mnogo kafića u kojima
se satima brblja i promatra žene kako prolaze. Lijepe žene prolaze kroz
grad jedna je od poznatijih rock-balada grada u kojem će uvijek biti
važno kako se odijevate, pogotovo ako ste žena.
KNJIŽARE ALGORITAM I PROFIL
MEGASTORE
CAFÉ BULLDOG AND CAFÉ FLORES
Zagreb has always been the capital of cafés; important events have
taken place in its coffee houses, and still do. There’s the legendary
Café Bar Zvečka which saw the birth of Zagreb’s rock-culture in the
80’s; it still exists but no one goes there today, not even for sentimental reasons. The whimsical citizens of Zagreb change café bars as often
as they change socks, and if one season you are the owner of the
most popular place in the city, that does not necessarily mean that
you’ll be next season’s venue de rigueur. Bulldog, though, with its extensive choice of beers, has for years been a favourite watering hole,
a stage for a multitude of events, concerts and promotions. Last winter, which was as cold as the ice age, guests were drinking gallons of
grog and punch while the temperatures outside were dropping bellow
-20°. Just around the corner there’s a completely different proposition
- café bar Flores, a well-established café bar offering delicious coffees,
lattes, cocoas and teas with Madeleine biscuits à la Marcel Proust and
simply the best sandwiches and cakes in town. While the rest of the
city was pretty much choking in smoke, the management of the café
bar Flores chose to ban smoking. Of course, there are plenty of other
café bars in the city centre where one can spend hours and hours just
chatting or reliving one of Zagreb’s best known rock ballads, Beautiful
women are passing through the town - one of the best-known songs
in a city where the way you dress will always be important.
ALGORITAM AND PROFIL
MEGASTORE BOOK SHOPS
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Poput Bulldoga i Floresa, ova su dva megastorea mjesto hodočašća
brojnih Zagrepčana, a budući da je nedaleko Algoritma i treći kultni
kafić, Charlie, mogli bismo reći da se u tom tajanstvenom pentagramu
odvijaju slobodni trenuci gotovo svakoga građanina. U Algoritmu i Profilu većina ljudi ne kupuje knjige ili lista novine, već samo bace oko na
ono što je novo u svijetu duha, što se čita, piše i gleda te, bogatiji za
Just like Bulldog and Flores, Algoritam and Profil Megastore Book
Shops are much-visited institutions, and since Charlie, another famous
café bar, is located just in front of the Algoritam Book Shop, it would be
easy to think that this mysterious pentagram is the place where almost
everyone ends up to while away their time. Algoritam and Profil are
not the sort of places people purposefully go to buy a book and then
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nekoliko informacija, odlaze u kafić preko puta. Gotovo je neobično
vidjeti da netko ciljano zalazi u knjižaru, s nazivom knjige na papiriću,
jer mnogo je ljepše ući u hram knjiga i obići sve police, pa makar i s
nevelikim interesom. I Profil i Algoritam mogu se dičiti solidnim izborom knjiga na engleskom jeziku, vodiča, kuharica, hit-romana, stručnih
knjiga, znanstvenih priručnika, atlasa… ukratko, svega što bi putniku
moglo zatrebati uhvati li ga nesanica u hotelskoj sobi. Profil uz to ima
i ugodan kafić, kao i pozornicu na kojoj se odvijaju promocije. Premda
naklade knjiga u Hrvatskoj nisu velike, interes za književnost, bez obzira
na zloguka proročanstva, još uvijek nije sasvim splasnuo.
leave; they are places to browse at length, to chat to people about
new publications, to smell the books in these veritable temples, to
seek advice from a knowledgeable staff, to wallow in the written word
and then, of course, to digest a purchase over a coffee on the terraces
outside. Both Profil and Algoritam can be proud of what they offer; this
is by no means mainstream. There’s an extensive selection in English
-travel guides, cookbooks, bestsellers, professional literature, science
handbooks, atlases… in short, everything a visitor might need away
from home and running short of reading material. Profil has a beautiful café bar inside, which functions as a stage for promotions and book
readings as well as a gathering place for the local intelligentsia. Despite
the dark prophecies and although print runs of books in Croatia are not
large, the appetite for literature in print has not diminished at all which
has to be a good thing for these two great institutions.
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JAPANSKI RESTORAN TAKENOKO
JAPANESE RESTAURANT TAKENOKO
Zanimljivo je što ćemo za hrvatsku prijestolnicu napisati da je najvažnije u njoj posjetiti japanski restoran, ali Takenoko je takvom brzinom
osvojio Zagrepčane da je malo onih koji baš nikada tamo nisu sjeli i
pojeli sushi ili piletinu u umaku teriyaki. Premda se Zagreb može pohvaliti zavidnim brojem kineskih restorana, upravo je japanski, zahvaljujući svojoj ljepoti i dizajnu, postao hodočašće mladih zagrebačkih
poslovnih ljudi te najljepših gradskih djevojaka, koje često svoje rođendane proslavljaju na ovoj adresi. U Takenoku je najvažnije vidjeti
i biti viđen te bi onaj tko bi ispisivao društvenu kroniku grada svoj stol
morao zakupiti baš ovdje. I premda je nakon Takenoka u proteklom
desetljeću niknuo niz novih, vrlo zanimljivih i omiljenih restorana, jedino se u ovom restoranu uvijek morate boriti za slobodan stol, čak i kad
pada kiša i građani se odluče sklupčati u trosjedima u svojim dnevnim
sobama. Preporučuje se da za Takenoko odjenete najbolje što imate te
da obrok započnete s oštrigama.
It may seem a little strange that we suggest a Japanese restaurant as
one of the most notable restaurants in the Croatian capital, but Takenoko has won over the citizens of Zagreb in such a short time that
there are only a few of those who have never been there to try sushi
or teriyaki. Ethnic cuisine is not abundant in Zagreb, although there are
several Chinese restaurants but this place has captured the zeitgeist
when it comes to the urban glitterati and its sophisticated interior has
clearly hit the mark for the city’s beautiful set. In Takenoko the most
important thing is to see and to be seen, and it’s the perfect vantage
point to witness a microcosm of Zagreb’s social life. While there have
been some great new restaurants opening in the city of the last 10
years, this is the only restaurant where you still have to struggle to get
a table and while there’s not a waiting list of El Bulli proportions, it’s
still advisable to book ahead. So put on the gladrags and kick off your
evening with some wonderful oysters.
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ŠETNJA ZAGREBOM | STROLL AROUND ZAGREB
RIBLJI RESTORAN KORČULA
KORČULA FISH RESTAURANT
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Smještena u centru grada, u Teslinoj ulici, Korčula je jedan od onih
restorana o kojima se već odavno ne piše po novinama, niti se o njoj
govori, jer ona je mjesto na koje se bez razmišljanja dolazi pojesti bakalar petkom, a rižoto ili hobotnica ostalih dana. Ovdje će vas posluživati
isti konobari, u taktu uvijek iste glazbe iz zvučnika (ovo putniku namjerniku neće ništa značiti!). To što uvijek puna Korčula godinama ne
mijenja ni meni ni glazbu, najbolje je svjedočanstvo o njezinu rejtingu
u gradu koji se mijenja brzinom svjetlosti, naočigled raste i seli se na
neke nove, zanimljive adrese. I dok se relativno novootvoreni restorani
bore za publiku, Korčuli je sasvim dovoljno da je – Korčula, što god to
značilo. Unutra ćete vidjeti vlasnike ranije spomenutih kafića, poslovne
ljude, mnoštvo starijih muškaraca koji ni nakon četrdesetak godina
života u kontinentalnom Zagrebu nisu izgubili svoj južnjački naglasak, a svi su prezadovoljni,
masnih lica od sisanja ribljih glava i kliješta ovećih
škampi. U Korčuli bi gotovo
grijeh bio naručiti meso,
bez obzira što i njega ima
na meniju. I dok je prema
grčkom mitu baš do otoka
Korčule Saturn odbacio srp
kojim je odrezao ud svome
ocu Uranu (što mora da
je utjecalo na sastav tla i
kvalitetu ribe), u restoranu
Korčula jedino što je mitsko
jest – fantastična neprolaznost vremena.
Located in the very city centre, in Teslina Street, Korčula is one of those
restaurants that is never mentioned in the newspapers or talked about
too much because it’s the place which naturally attracts you to walk in
and without much thinking enjoy a traditional cod dish on Fridays or
risotto and octopus during the week. You’ll always be served by the
same waiters with the same tape (remember them?) coming from
the speakers; no problem to the first-time visitor but an institution for
regular diners. The fact that Korčula never changes its menu or music
but is always busy is the best proof of its reputation in the city which
is constantly changing, developing before our eyes and moving from
one address to a new more interesting one. While some other recently
opened restaurants have to fight for every guest they can get, in the
case of Korčula, it’s simply enough to be … well, Korčula. Inside this
legendary place you can see the owners
of café bars congregate here, businessmen, older gentlemen who have not lost
their southern accent after 40 years of
living in Zagreb, and everyone is more
than content as they suck fish heads or
scampi pincers, their faces dripping with
olive oil; although you will find it on the
menu, it is almost a sin to order meat in
Korčula. Even though in Greek mythology,
Saturn threw away a scythe on the Island
of Korčula after he had used it to castrate
his father Uranus (you see, that’s why you
steer clear of the meat), the only mythical
thing in Korčula restaurant is this fantastic
stillness of time.
GOSTIONICA OKRUGLJAK
OKRUGLJAK TAVERN
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I premda mnoge gostionice nalikuju jedna drugoj kao jaje jajetu, u podsljemeskoj zoni, nudeći za predjelo sir i vrhnje i kuhanu šunku, za glavno
jelo janjetinu, odojak, pečenu patku ili teleću potkoljenicu, a za desert
neki debeli, masni kolač, Okrugljak je još jedno mjesto bez kojega je
posjet Zagrebu gotovo besmislen, osim ako ste na nekoj zaista strogoj
dijeti i užasavate se predimenzioniranih obroka. S duljom tradicijom od
ostalih gostionica, za Okrugljak smo skloni misliti da je star poput drevnoga grada Medvedgrada, do kojega Zagrepčani u boljoj kondiciji rado
penju u ljepše doba godine, a oni koji su neskloni takvoj aktivnosti, mirno ga gledaju iz podnožja. Čak i ako ste se već odavno inicirali u neku
zdraviju i manje obilatu prehranu, u Okrugljaku ćete sigurno posrnuti,
Although many taverns look much of a muchness, in the shadow of
Sljeme mountain, there’s a place which offers fresh cottage cheese
and boiled ham for an amuse bouche and lamb, suckling pig, duck or
veal for the main course followed by a rich slab of cake for a dessert.
Okrugljak is yet another place you have to visit while in Zagreb or your
trip might seem meaningless. Your only excuse might be a strict healthy
diet as you become terrified when confronted with oversized meals.
With its long history, Okrugljak seems as old as the ancient town of
Medvedgrad towering above it and it’s not a bad idea to hike up to it
after a meal here. For those without such healthy qualms, simply leaning back in your chair in the courtyard to look up the hill is just as sat-
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a za okolnim stolovima nekom
sličnom užitku prepuštat će
se i brojni biznismeni, kao i
obitelji s djecom. Premda je
kao stvoren za ručak, Okrugljak možete obići i navečer,
kad će u njemu biti nešto više
parova.
isfying. Even if you are health conscious,
Okrugljak is undoubtedly a place to go
astray as you watch all the other diners
enjoying all the abundance of this sinful
food. Although Okrugljak is a great place
for having a family lunch, it also provides
the perfect setting for a romantic dinner
with its discreet service.
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SVETI MARKO, SVETA KATARINA I
PALAČA ORŠIĆ RAUCH
ST MARK, ST CATHERINE AND
ORŠIĆ RAUCH PALACE
Čak i da ste samo jednu večer u Zagrebu, svakako trebate prošetati do
crkve svetog Marka, okamenjenog, presvetog srca metropole. Jedan
od najboljih hrvatskih romana Giga Barićeva Milana Begovića počinje
u hladnoj i mračnoj unutrašnjosti ove crkve, gdje se dolazi pomoliti
heroina koja će se uskoro poput Penelope zateći okružena brojnim
zaručnicima i pred teškom odlukom: za kojega se od njih odlučiti.
Neki Zagrepčani nisu najsretniji s činjenicom da je na ovom trgu sâmo
središte političke moći, naime Vlada, Sabor i Ustavni sud, pa bi moćnike
rado udaljili odavde, a palače i dvorce pretvorili u hotele i ljetovališta.
No, time bi ipak Markov trg izgubio svoju stoljećima akumuliranu moć,
svoje parade, vođe, službene automobile, tamna odijela i narodne nošnje. Nakon što prošećete
oko crkve svetog Marka, svakako
obiđite nedaleku baroknu palaču
Oršić-Rauch, u kojoj je danas
smješten Hrvatski povijesni muzej. U noći, ona će vam se učiniti
poput goleme školjke sa skrivenim životom iznutra. Kao da se i
You might only be spending one night in Zagreb but you should definitely take the opportunity to walk up to the Church of St Mark, the
stone-covered holy heart of the capital. One of the best Croatian novels, Giga Barićeva by Milan Begović, begins with a description of the
cold and dark interior of this church where the main character, Penelope, comes to pray and is soon surrounded by many fiancées being
forced to make a difficult decision, just like her.
Some citizens of Zagreb are not exactly thrilled by the fact that this
square is the very centre of the political power as it houses the Croatian Government, Parliament and the Constitutional Court. They
would like to dislocate the power from this beautiful place and turn
all the palaces and castles into hotels and summer resorts. However, that would mean the loss of power of the St Mark’s Square
that has been accumulating for centuries. All the pomp of parades,
leaders and limousines, dark suits and traditional dresses would be
lost from this area. After a nice stroll around St. Mark’s, you should
definitely visit the baroque palace Oršić-Rauch, which is home to the
Croatian Historical Museum. At night-time it appears before your
eyes as an enormous monolith, sheltering life within itself. It’s easy
to imagine the grand, aristocratic balls still being held inside just as
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ŠETNJA ZAGREBOM | STROLL AROUND ZAGREB
dalje u njoj odvijaju plemićki plesovi najpoznatijega hrvatskog romana
u nastavcima, Gričke vještice Marije Jurić Zagorke. Nakon što ste se
nauživali palače Oršić-Rauch, prošećite još do crkve svete Katarine, koja
je krasan primjer baroka, iz kojega se nerijetko mogu začuti orgulje.
portrayed in the most famous Croatian novel, Grička vještica by
Marija Jurić Zagorka. From the Oršić-Rauch Palace, do not miss the opportunity to walk across the square to the lovely baroque St. Catherine’s Church from which you can often hear the strains of organ music.
ZRINJEVAC, ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ,
STROSSMAYEROVA GALERIJA I
MODERNA GALERIJA
ZRINJEVAC, THE ARCHAEOLOGICAL
MUSEUM, STROSSMAYER’S GALLERY
AND THE MODERN GALLERY
Kad se umorite od kafića, restorana i knjižara, svratite u najljepši gradski park obrubljen platanama i sumračnim bistama domaćih velikana
na koje gotovo više nitko ne obraća pažnju, tako da ćete teško naići
na šetača koji će vam znati nabrojiti njihova imena. Zrinjevac je tiha i
opjevana ljubav svakog Zagrepčanina, pojavljuje se u nekim najljepšim
stihovima, poput primjerice “hodam po Zrinjevcu, a u ušima mi šumi
When you get tired of cafés, restaurants and bookshops, visit the most
beautiful park edged with platana trees and gloomy busts of wellknown figures from Croatian history, to which no one pays that much
attention so it’s hard to find someone who knows all of their names.
Zrinjevac is a love of all citizens of Zagreb celebrated in some of the
most beautiful verses such as “I walk around Zrinjevac, and hear the
sound of the sea in my ears” by a famous Croatian poet, Slavko Mihalić.
That sound of the sea is a frequent phenomenon for people living in
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more” poznatoga hrvatskog pjesnika Slavka Mihalića. Taj šum mora
česta je pojava u ušima Zagrepčana, jer mnogi su od njih s juga, iz Dalmacije, došli u Zagreb studirati i potom nastavili ovdje živjeti. I koliko
god se glavni gradski trg s banom Jelačićem na konju smatra “centrom”,
toliko je baš ovaj park “središte mandale” u mašti svakog Zagrepčanina,
pogotovo onog sretnika sa stanom na Zrinjevcu. Šetati parkom, a ne
posjetiti Arheološki muzej sa zanimljivim nalazima neolitskih grobnica iz okolice grada, mumijama i ostalim neophodnim arheološkim
parafernalijima, ne bi bio potpun doživljaj. Kao ni zaobići stare majstore u Strossmayerovoj galeriji i moderne u njezinoj posestrimi, Modernoj galeriji.
Zagreb since many of them have come from the South, Dalmatia, to
study in Zagreb where they continued to live. And although the main
city square with a centrally located statue of Ban Josip Jelačić on a
horse is considered the ‘’centre’’, this park is the “centre of mandala”
in the fantasy world of all people living in Zagreb, especially those lucky
ones who have a flat at Zrinjevac. The adventure would be incomplete
if one is to walk around the park without deciding to visit the Archaeological Museum with interesting exhibits from Neolithic graves around
the city, mummified corpses and other fascinating archaeological
finds. The same goes for the famous paintings exhibited at the Strossmayer’s Gallery and the Modern Gallery.
DOLAC I RAZGOVOR S “KUMICAMA”
DOLAC OUTDOOR MARKET PLACE
Gotovo da nema neke važne osobe na proputovanju Zagrebom, a da
ne svrati među šarene dolačke kišobrane i ondje ne popriča s kumicama (žene sa sela koje kao da od početka brojanja vremena dolaze
u grad prodavati domaće namirnice, sir i vrhnje, cvijeće). To je toliko
uobičajeno da smo kadrove s Dolca navikli redovito gledati na TV-u, pa
nam je gotovo čudno kad nam se nekoliko dana zaredom s ekrana ne
osmjehne lice neke dobrohotne bakice. Ali, to ne znači da je gradska
tržnica “službeno” mjesto za obilaske. Ona je intimna točka svih koji
vole tu neodoljivu kombinaciju zvonika katedrale, malih pečenjara u
sjeni svake kuće, brdašaca voća i povrća, a uz to i narančasto-ružičaste
kakofonije cvijeća. Subotom se na Dolcu pojavi gotovo svatko tko
drži do sebe, a poriluk, blitva i tikvice tek su pozadina malih gradskih
razgovora.
Almost everyone who visits Zagreb stops at Dolac and under the colourful Dolac sun-umbrellas has a chat with the kumice - women from
the surrounding villages who have been coming into the city for centuries to sell home-grown fruit and vegetables, home-made fresh cheese
and sour cream and flowers. It’s become so normal to see scenes from
Dolac on TV that we find it almost strange when we do not see the
good-natured kumice smiling to us from the TV screens day after day.
This doesn’t mean that the city market is an “official” sight-seeing
location; It is an intimate spot for all those who love the irresistible
combination of the Cathedral’s bell tower, small barbecue bars in the
shadow of every house, small piles of fruit and vegetables, along with
the orange-pink cacophony of flowers. On Saturday every self-respecting poseur appears at Dolac to see and be seen at the informal social
event that is Špica, getting involved city gossip and, of course, coffee
against the background of leek, chard and aubergines.
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A journey beyond chocolate...
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ŠETNJA ZAGREBOM | STROLL AROUND ZAGREB
MAKSIMIR
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MAKSIMIR
Za ljubavnike, umirovljenike, parove u svađi, usamljenike, sportske
tipove, šetače, čitače knjiga u travi, studente, prezaposlene tipove sa
slobodna dva sata nedjeljom, Maksimir, koji je ponegdje sređen i lijep
park, a ponegdje pomalo divlji i nedotjeran zeleni svijet, poput neke
praeuropske šume obrubljene čudnovatim megalitima, i dalje je vrijedan dolaska, obilaska, boravka i šetnje. Ljeti ćete u nekom grmu kupiti
sladoled i uživati u njemu na obali
jezerca, a zimi ćete se ovdje jednostavno smrznuti. Bez obzira što je
u međuvremenu oko prilično starog
parka nastao bučan velegrad, s višesmjernim ulicama, tramvajskim
šinama, bolničkim sirenama i svime
zbog čega volimo živjeti u gradu,
Maksimir je zadržao svoj smiraj,
žablji kreket, labudove. Obilazak
obližnjega Zoološkog vrta ovisi o
tome koliko se u danom trenutku
osjećate poput znatiželjnog djeteta.
It’s for lovers, senior citizens, arguing couples, sporty types, bookreading singletons, passers by, students or yuppies with only a couple
of hours to spare on Sundays, Maksimir is the park for everyone. In
some parts this park is beautifully cultivated and others it’s a wild and
untouched green world that reminds you of an ancient European forest circled by mysterious megaliths. During the summer you will be
buying yourself an ice-cream and
enjoying it by the lake and in winter you will simply be freezing. Despite the fact that around this old
park a noisy metropolis has been
developed with busy roads, trams,
police sirens and all the other noises that make city living so exciting,
Maksimir managed to preserve its
peacefulness with frogs’ croacks
and birds’ calls. If you feel like a
curious child, you should visit the
small but nice Maksimir zoo .
MIROGOJ
MIROGOJ CEMETERY
Gotovo da se manje pribojavamo smrti kad pomislimo da ćemo eventualno biti pokopani na Mirogoju. Na glavnome gradskom groblju
sahranjeni su toliki važni i zaslužni Hrvati da bi putniku dobro došao
neki Vergilije koji bi ga proveo grobljem, baš kao što je Dantea proveo paklom. Mirogoj se isplati posjetiti osobito u vrijeme Dana mrtvih,
One is less afraid of death when aware of the possibility of being buried at Mirogoj. The main city cemetery is the place where so many important and noteworthy Croatians are buried that someone just passing by might think it would be useful to have Vergil by his or her side
in order to show him or her around just like in Dante’s Hell. The time
to visit is around All Saints Day, November 1st,
when it seems to come alive with so many sparkling chrysanthemums. But at any time of the year
Mirogoj is peace in harmony with its name (‘’mir’’
means ‘’peace’’ in Croatian). There are beautifully
breathtaking graves – if you’ll pardon the pun –
like a small art deco beauty, the grave of the writer
and literally critic, Vladimir Lunaček, which you’ll
find if you turn left from the grave of another great
writer, Miroslav Krleža, or if you ask a kindly gravedigger. Across the road from the Mirogoj entrance,
there’’s a café bar called by some “Kod mrtvaca”
(“The Deadman’s Place”) where grave-diggers
are regular customers exchanging their macabre
stories which will make your hair stand on end.
Creepy.
kad se čini da je pun oživjelih, svjetlucavih krizantema. Ali, u svako doba godine Mirogoj prakticira svoj mir, u skladu
s imenom. Ima grobova od čije ljepote
zastaje dah, poput omanjeg, secesijskog
ljepotana književnika i kritičara Vladimira Lunačeka, koji ćete pronaći tako da
od groba drugoga književnog velikana,
Miroslava Krleže, skrenete lijevo, ili,
pak, zamolite ljubaznoga grobara da
vam pomogne u potrazi. Vrijedi napomenuti da je preko puta Mirogoja pomalo zastrašujući kafić, neki ga zovu
“Kod mrtvaca”, gdje se okupljaju grobari
i pričaju svoje priče od kojih se diže kosa
na glavi.
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