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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
343
Behind the Scenes
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OUR READERS
Peter Dragicevich
Many thanks to the travellers who used
the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting
anecdotes:
Aidan Kennedy, Alan Addison, Anto Vukovic,
Andreas Vilic, Beata Åhall, Calum Munro,
Carlo Iossa, Cristiana Constantinescu, Dale
Hattey, David Carrizo, David Grimwood, Dudley McFadden, Elaine Crowe, Emily Durham,
Gayle Galletta, George Moss, Gill Ludkiewicz,
Gregoire Labbe, Jack Downton, Jane Ramsell,
Kate Sandey, Lynn Hopchet, Marcel Albornoz,
Maria Carmona, Mike Gerber, Nuria Zantman,
Patrick Reid, Paul Dekleva, Samantha Kent,
Teresa Oldham
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
AUTHOR THANKS
Anja Mutić
Hvala mama, for your inspiring laughter.
Obrigada, Hoji, for being there before, during
and after. A huge hvala to my friends in Croatia
who gave me endless recommendations –
this book wouldn’t be the same without you.
Special thanks go to Mila in Split. Finally, to the
inspiring memory of my father who travels with
me still.
Company on the road is always a treat, so
many thanks to Len and Anne Erceg, Manda
Wilson and Tim Moyes. Special thanks to the
extended Dragičević family in Split and Vrgorac
for their warm welcome and exceptional hospitality, especially Vojko and Marija Dragičević.
Climate map data adapted from Peel MC,
Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated
World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate
Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System
Sciences, 11, 163344
Cover photograph: Rovinj, Istria, Alan Copson/
Getty Images
344
BE H I N D TH E SC E N E S
THIS BOOK
Destination Editor
Charlotte Orr, Erin Richards,
Gabrielle Stefanos
This 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s Croatia guidebook was
researched and written by Anja
Mutić and Peter Dragicevich.
The previous edition was written by Anja Mutić and Vesna
Maric. This guidebook was
produced by the following:
Product Editor
Assisting Cartographer
Regional Senior
Cartographer
Assisting Book Designers
Anna Tyler
Alison Ridgway
Anthony Phelan
Book Designer
Katherine Marsh
Assisting Editors
Michelle Bennett, Melanie
Dankel, Ali Lemer, Kate
Mathews, Rosie Nicholson,
Alison Lyall
Virginia Moreno, Jennifer
Mullins
Cover Researcher
Naomi Parker
Thanks to Justin Flynn, Luna
Soo, Saralinda Turner, Amanda
Williamson
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
345
Index
A
accommodation 324-6,
337, see also individual
locations
activities 326, see also
individual activities
Ada 95
air travel
airports 17
to/from Croatia 332
within Croatia 334
Ančić, Mario 307
Anića Kuk 175
animals 317-18, see also
individual species
Aquarium Split 18, 202
archaeological & historic
sites
Burnum 196
Diocletian’s Palace 14,
200-2, 214, 214, 14
Polače 273
Poreč 116
Pula 99-102
Archaeological Museum of
Osijek 87
architecture 20-1, 314-15
area codes 17, 330
art galleries, see museums
& galleries
arts 319-22
ATMs 329
B
Badija Island 281
Bale 115
Banj 227
Banje Beach 258
Barać’s Caves 172
Baranja 91-4
Baška 162-3
basketball 307
Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
Batina 94
beaches 21, 230
Ada 95
Bale 115
Brela 226, 230
Dubrovnik 258
Galovac 184
Kolombarica Beach 103
Komiža 248
Krivica 156
Lopar 168
Lubenice 151, 20
Makarska 224
Medena 222
Okrug Gornji 222
Orebić 276
Pakleni Islands 240
Pantan 222
Prapratno 275
Pula 103
Sakarun Bay 188
Stara Baška 161
Supetar 227
Sveti Andrija 114
Vis Island 246
Zlatni Rat 233
bears 317
beer 311
Beli 147-8
Beram 122
bicycle travel, see cycling
Bili Rat 227
Bilje 92
Biokovo National Park 225
birdwatching 318
Kopački Rit Nature
Park 92
Učka Nature Park 145
Biševo 12, 249
Blue Grotto 12, 249, 12
Blue World Institute of
Marine Research &
Conservation 158
boat travel 334, see also
canoeing & kayaking,
sailing
boat trips 12, 12
Badija Island 281
Crveni Otok 114
Hvar Town 238
Rovinj 111
Sali 187
Šibenik 191
Sveti Nikola 116
Zadar 182
Bol 11, 233-5, 11
border crossings
Austria 332-3
Bosnia & Hercegovina 333
Hungary 333
Montenegro 333
Serbia 334-5
Slovenia 334
Božava 188
Brač Island 19, 226-35
Brela 226, 230
Brijuni Islands 107-8
Broz, Josip (Tito) 297,
298, 299
Buba 224
budget 17
Burnum 196
bus travel
to/from Croatia 332-4
within Croatia 335
business hours 17, 329-30
Buzet 126-8
C
camping 324
canoeing & kayaking
Dubrovnik 259
Mali Lošinj 153
Rovinj 111
car travel 335-6, 341
Carnival 22
castles
Kaštel Gomilica 223
Kaštel Kambelovac 223
Kaštel Lukšić 223
Kaštel Novi 223
Kaštel Štafilić 223
Kaštel Stari 223
Kaštel Sućurac 223
Knin Fortress 196
Morosini-Grimani Castle
124
Trakošćan Castle 14, 79-81
Trsat Castle 137
Veliki Tabor Castle 14,
82-3, 14
cathedrals, see churches &
cathedrals
Cava 258
caves
Barć’s Cave 172
Dragon’s Cave 233
Grabovača Cave Park 174
Manita Peć 175
Pazin Chasm 125
Cavtat 270-1
cell phones 16, 330
Central Dalmatia 38, 197249, 198-9
climate 197
highlights 198
Cest is D’Best 23, 54
children, travel with 34-5
International Children’s
Festival 193
Zagreb 59
churches & cathedrals
Cathedral of St Lovro 219
Cathedral of the
Assumption
(Dubrovnik) 255-7
Cathedral of the
Assumption (Krk
Town) 159
Cathedral of the
Assumption of the
Blessed Virgin Mary 41
Church of St Euphemia
110
Euphrasian Basilica 116
Marija Bistrica Church 83
Our Lady of Trsat Church
137
St Blaise’s Church 123
346
I N D E X C -J
churches & cathedrals
continued
St James’ Cathedral 191
St John the Evangelist’s
Church 165
St Lucy’s Church 162
St Mark’s Cathedral 281
St Mark’s Church 44
Čikat 152
Čilić, Marin 307
cinema 320
climate 16, see also
individual locations
climate change 332
coffee 311, 10
consulates 327
cooking courses 308
credit cards 329
Cres Island 15, 19, 14657, 15
Cres Town 148-50
Crikvenica 137
Croatian Association of
Artists 52
Croatian Museum of
Tourism 143-4
Crveni Otok 114
culture 303-7
currency 16, 328
customs regulations 326
cycling 19, 326, 334, 341
Bilje 92
Krk Town 160
Kvarner 141
Mali Lošinj 153
Momjan 133
Poreč 118
Pula 102
Rab Town 165
Rovinj 111
Učka Nature Park 145
D
Ðakovački Vezovi 90
Ðakovo 90
dance 321
Danče 258
Dance & Nonverbal
Theatre Festival 23-4,
124
dangers, see safety
Days of Jules Verne 125
deer 317
Delnice 140
Dingač 275
Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
Diocletian’s Palace 14, 2002, 214, 214, 14
disabilities, travellers
with 331
discount cards 326-7
diving & snorkelling 19,
231, 326
Beli 148
Bol 233-4
Cres 149
Dubrovnik 258
Hvar Town 237
Krk Town 160
Mali Lošinj 153
Maškin 114
Mljet Island 274
Poreč 118
Pula 102
Rab Town 165-7
Rovinj 111
Sali 187
Supetar 227
Vis Town 245
Dolac Market 41
dolphins 158
Dragon’s Cave 233
drinks 21, 311-12, 339
driving, see car travel
driving licences 335
Drvenik Mali 222
Drvenik Veli 222
Dubrovnik 9, 38, 251-70,
256, 260-1, 5, 9, 264,
265
accommodation 259-66
activities 258-9
climate 250
drinking & nightlife
267-8
festivals & events 259
food 266-7
information 268
medical services 268
shopping 268
sights 251-8
tourist information 269
tours 259
transport 269-70
Dubrovnik Summer
Festival 23
Dugi Otok 186-8
Dugi Rat 226
E
economy 286
Elafiti Islands 272
electricity 328
embassies 327
emergencies 17
environment 316-18
environmental issues 318
Euphrasian Basilica 116
events 22-3
exchange rates 17
F
Feast of St Blaise 22
Feast of St Martin 25
ferries 334
Festival of Subotina 127
Festival Opatija 144
festivals 22-3, see also
individual locations
films 320
flora 318
food 12, 21, 308-13, 338, 11,
12, see also individual
locations
football 306
For Festival 23
Fritzy Palace 153
Fuliranje 55
Full Moon Festival 24-5
G
galleries, see museums &
galleries
Galovac 184
Game of Thrones 258
gardens, see parks &
gardens
gay travellers 62, 306,
327
Gospić 173-4
Grabovača Cave Park 174
Gračišće 126
Gradina 284
Green Grotto 249
griffon vultures 148, 150
Grohote 217
Grožnjan 132-3
Gustafi 321
H
health 327-8
Hideout 23, 24
hiking 19
Biokovo National Park
225
Gračišće 126
Mali Lošinj 153
Medvednica Nature
Park 70
Orebić 276-7
Paklenica National
Park 174
Poreč 118
Rab Town 165
Risnjak National Park
140
Samobor 69
Split 202-3
Učka Nature Park 145
historic sites, see archaeological &
historic sites
history 288-302
Bosnia & Hercegovina
301-2
Christianity 290-1
early inhabitants 288
EU recognition 300-1
Habsburgs 293
Homeland War 300
Napoleonic invasion
294
Ottoman Turks 292-3
Romans 289-90
WWI 295-6
WWII 296-7
Yugoslavia 295-6, 297,
298-300
holidays 330
Holy Week 23
horseback riding 19, 145
hot springs 78, 82
Hrelić 65
Hum 128-9
Hvar Island 235-44
Hvar Town 10, 19, 236-42,
238, 10, 28
I
Ilok 96
Ilovik 155
INmusic Festival 23, 54
insurance 328, 335
International Children’s
Festival 193
International Folklore
Festival 54
International Puppet
Theatre Festival 54-5
internet access 328
internet resources 17
Istria 11, 37, 97-133, 98
climate 97
highlights 98
itineraries 26-33
Ivanišević, Goran 307
J
Jadrolinija 155
Jelsa 243-4
Jerolim 240
3 47
K
L
Labin 121-3
Lake Mir 187
landmines 330
language 16, 303, 337-41
Lapad Bay 258
legal matters 328
lesbian travellers 62,
306, 327
Lighting Giants 18
Lika 171-6
Limska Draga Fjord 115
M
Makarska 223-6
Makarska Riviera 223-6
Maksimir Park 50
Mala Učka 145
Mali Lošinj 152-6
Mali Plac na Tavanu 65
Mali Ston 275
Malinska 158-9
Manita Peć 175
maps 328
Marija Bistrica 83
markets 65
Dolac Market 41
Fuliranje 55 Hrelić 65
Mali Plac na Tavanu 65
Marulić, Marko 319
Maškin 114
measures 328
Medena 222
medical services 327
Međimurje 79
Medvedgrad 50
Medvednica Nature
Park 70
Mekićevica 238
Milna 246
Mlini 240
Mljet Island 10, 19, 273-4,
10
Mljet National Park 273
mobile phones 16, 330
Momjan 133
money 16, 17, 328-9
Montenegro 271
Morosini-Grimani Castle 124
Mošćenička Draga 147
Mostar 271
motorcycle travel 335-6
Motovun 129-31
Motovun Film Festival
24, 129
mountain biking, see cycling
Mt Biokovo 225
Mt Kastav 141
Murter Island 189-90
museums & galleries
Archaeological Museum
of Osijek 87
Croatian Association of
Artists 52
Croatian Museum of
Tourism 143-4
Fritzy Palace 153
Museum of Broken
Relationships 41
Museum of
Contemporary Art 50
Museum of Slavonia 85-7
Museum of the Krapina
Neanderthal 81
Staro Selo Museum 83
Street Art Museum 54
War Photo Limited 253-4
music 320-1
Music Biennale Zagreb
22, 53
Mužilovčica 70
N
national parks 21, 316-17
Biokovo National Park
225
Kornati National Park
189
Krka National Park 13,
194-6, 13
Mljet National Park 273
Paklenica National Park
174-6
Plitvice Lakes National
Park 9, 171-2, 8, 33
Risnjak National Park
140
nature parks
Kopački Rit Nature Park
15, 91-2, 15
Lonjsko Polje Nature
Park 68-70
Medvednica Nature
Park 70
Telašćica Nature Park
187
Učka Nature Park 145
naturism 104
Nerezine 154
newspapers 328
Northern Dalmatia 38,
169-96, 170
climate 169
highlights 170
Novalja 178-9
Novigrad 122
Nugal 224
O
Okrug Gornji 222
olive oil 310, 20
Opatija 142-6
opening hours 17, 329-30
Oprtalj 122
Orebić 276-7
Osijek 85-91, 88
Ošljak 184
Osor 151-2
otters 317
Our Lady of Trsat Church
137
P
Pag Island 19, 176-9, 231
Pag Town 176-7
painting 322
Pakleni Islands 240
Paklenica National Park
174-6
Palmižana 240
Pantan 222
paragliding
Crikvenica 137
Motovun 129
Samobor 69
Učka Nature Park 145
parks & gardens, see also
national parks, nature
parks
Komrčar Park 164
Maksimir Park 50
Punta Corrente Forest
Park 110
Parun, Vesna 319
passports 331
Pazin 124-6
Pazin Chasm 125
Pelješac Peninsula 274-84
phonecards 330-1
photography 330
Piškera 189
planning
budgeting 17
calendar of events 22
children 34-5
Croatia basics 16-17
Croatia’s regions 36-8
internet resources 17
itineraries 26-33
repeat visitors 18
travel seasons 16
plants 318
Plitvice Lakes National
Park 9, 171-3, 8, 33
Polače 273
politics 301-2
I N D E X K - P
Karanac 93-4
Kaštel Gomilica 223
Kaštel Kambelovac 223
Kaštel Lukšić 223
Kaštel Novi 223
Kaštel Štafilić 223
Kaštel Stari 223
Kaštel Sućurac 223
Kaštela 222-3
kayaking, see canoeing &
kayaking
Klanjec 83
Knin 196
Knin Fortress 196
Koločep 272
Kolombarica Beach 103
Komiža 248
Komrčar Park 164
Konavle 272
Kopačevo 92
Kopački Rit Nature Park 15,
91-2, 15
Korčula Island 277-84
Korčula Town 19, 279-84,
280
Kornat 189
Kornati Islands 19, 188-9
Kornati National Park 189
Košljun 161
Kostelić, Ivica 307
Kostelić, Janica 307
Kotli 128
Krapina 81-2
Krivica 156
Krk Island 157-63
Krk Town 159-61
Krka Monastery 195-6
Krka National Park 13,
194-6, 13
Krleža, Miroslav 319
Kumrovec 83
Kvarner 37, 134-68, 135
climate 134
highlights 135
literature 319-20
Ljeto na Strossu 23, 54
Ljubičić, Ivan 307
Lokrum Island 271
Lonjsko Polje Nature Park
68-70
Lopar 168
Lopud 272
Lošinj Island 19, 146-57
Lozovac 195
Lubenice 151, 20
Lumbarda 284
348
I N D E X P -W
Polo, Marco 283
population 287
Poreč 115-20, 117
Postup 275
Prapratno 275
Preko 184
Premantura Peninsula 103
Primošten 194
Prvić 191
public holidays 330
Pula 99-107, 100, 30
Pula Film Festival 102
Punat 161
Punta Bjanca 188
Punta Corrente Forest
Park 110
R
Rab Island 19, 163-8
Rab Town 164-8, 166, 29
radio 328
rafting 19
Ragusa 293
rakija 311
Raša 122
religion 287, 305
Rijeka 136-42, 138
Risnjak National Park 140
road rules 336
Roč 128
rock climbing 19, 326
Baška 162
Paklenica National
Park 175
Rovinj 111
Samobor 69
Rogač 217
Roški Slap 195
Rovinj 108-14, 109, 31,
229
Rt Kamenjak 13, 103, 13
ruins, see archaeological &
historic sites
Rukavac 246
S
safety 330
sailing 326
Sakarun Bay 188
Sali 187-8
same-sex marriage 306
Samobor 69
scuba diving, see diving &
snorkelling
Map Pages 000
Photo Pages 000
sculpture 322
Sea Turtle Rescue Centre
18, 153
Severina 321
sheep 148
shopping, see individual
locations
Šibenik 190-4, 192
Šibenik-Knin County
188-96
Siege of Vukovar 95
Šipan 272
Šipanska Luka 272
skiing 22, 307
Skradin 194
Skradinski Buk 195
Slanica 189
Slavonia 37, 84-96, 86
climate 84
highlights 86
Sljeme 53, 70
snakes 318
snorkelling, see diving &
snorkelling
soccer 306
Sokolarski Centre 195
Solin 217-18
Šolta 217
Sonus 25
Soundwave 24
Southern Dalmatia 38,
250-84, 252
climate 251
highlights 252
Sovinjsko Polje 129
Špancirfest 25, 76
Split 14, 38, 200-17, 204-5,
208-9
accommodation 206-9
activities 202-3
climate 197
drinking & nightlife
212-13
entertainment 213
festivals & events 203-6
food 209-11
internet access 215
medical services 215
shopping 213-15
sights 200-2
tourist information 215
tours 203
transport 215-17
travel agencies 215
walking tour 214, 214
sports 306-7
Srebrna 246
St Blaise’s Church 123
St James’ Cathedral 191
St John the Evangelist’s
Church 165
St Lucy’s Church 162
St Mark’s Cathedral 281
St Mark’s Church 44
Stara Baška 161
Stari Grad 242-3
Staro Selo Museum 83
Stiniva 246
Stipanska 240
Stomorska 217
Ston 275
Stončica 246
Street Art Museum 54
street names 329
Subversive Festival 23
Šuker, Davor 306
Šulići 258
Sunčana Uvala 152
Šunj 272
Supetar 227-33
Supetar Summer 232
Susak 155
Sveta Katarina 114
Sveti Andrija 114
Sveti Jakov 258
Sveti Jure 225
Sveti Nikola 116
Svetvinčenat 124
sword dance 279
T
Tabor Film Festival 82
taxes 329
tea 311
Telašćica Nature Park 187
telephone services 330-1
tennis 306-7
time 16, 331, 340
tipping 329
Tisno 189-90
Tito 297, 298, 299
tourist information 331
tours 336, see also boat
trips, walking tours,
individual locations
train travel
to/from Croatia 333-4
within Croatia 336
Trakošćan Castle 14, 79-81
travel to/from Croatia
332-4
travel within Croatia 334-6
trekking, see hiking
Trogir 218-22, 220
Trpanj 276
Trpimir 291
Trsat Castle 137
Trsteno Arboretum 272-3
truffles 127
turtles 18, 153
TV 328
Tvrđa 85-7
U
Učka Nature Park 145
Ugljan 184
Ultra Europe 24
Unije 155
Unknown Festival 25
Urban Festival 53-4
V
vacations 330
Valun 150-1, 229
Varaždin 74-8, 75
Varaždin Baroque
Evenings 25, 76
Varaždinske Toplice 78-9
vegan travellers 60, 310-11
vegetarian travellers 60,
310-11
Vela Draga 145
Vela Luka 227, 284
Vela Spila 284
Veli Lošinj 156-7
Veli Rat 188
Veliki Tabor Castle 14,
82-3, 14
Verne, Jules 125
Verudela Peninsula 103
video 328
Vidova Gora 233
Viganj 276
Vis Island 19, 244-9, 231
Vis Town 245-8
visas 16, 331
Vlačica 227
Volosko 144
volunteering 331
Vošac peak 225
Vrbnik 161-2
Vrilo 227
Vrsar 122
Vukovar 94-6
Vukovar Film Festival 25
W
walking, see hiking
walking tours
Diocletian’s Palace
214, 214
Zagreb 51, 51
War Photo Limited 253-4
water 311
3 49
Međimurje 79
Slavonia 93
women in Croatia 305-6
women travellers 331
World Festival of Animated
Film 54
World Theatre Festival
25, 55
Z
Zadar 15, 179-86, 180, 15,
27, 33
Zagorje 36, 71-83, 72-3
climate 71
highlights 72
Zagreb 36, 40-68, 42-3,
46-7
accommodation 55-7
activities 53
climate 40
drinking & nightlife 10,
60-4
entertainment 64-5
festivals & events 53-5
food 57-60
highlights 42
internet access 66
medical services 66
shopping 65-6
sights 41-52
tourist information 66
tours 53
transport 66-8
travel agencies 66
walking tour 51, 51
Zagreb Film Festival 25, 55
Zagrebdox 22
Ždrilca 240
Zlarin 191
Zlatni Rat 233
Zoo Osijek 87
Zrće Beach Festivals 18
Zrenj 122
Žut 189
I N D E X W -Z
weather 16, see also
individual locations
websites 17
weights 328
white-water rafting 19
wi-fi 328
Wild Asparagus
Harvest 23
wildlife 317-18
windsurfing 19
Bol 233
Viganj 276
wine 21, 311-12
wine regions 311-12
Ilok 96
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
351
Map Legend
Sights
Beach
Bird Sanctuary
Buddhist
Castle/Palace
Christian
Confucian
Hindu
Islamic
Jain
Jewish
Monument
Museum/Gallery/Historic Building
Ruin
Shinto
Sikh
Taoist
Winery/Vineyard
Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary
Other Sight
Activities,
Courses & Tours
Bodysurfing
Diving
Canoeing/Kayaking
Course/Tour
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
Skiing
Snorkelling
Surfing
Swimming/Pool
Walking
Windsurfing
Other Activity
Sleeping
Sleeping
Camping
Eating
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Drinking & Nightlife
Cafe
Entertainment
Entertainment
Shopping
Shopping
Information
Bank
Embassy/Consulate
Hospital/Medical
Internet
Police
Post Office
Telephone
Toilet
Tourist Information
Other Information
Geographic
Beach
Hut/Shelter
Lighthouse
Lookout
Mountain/Volcano
Oasis
Park
Pass
Picnic Area
Waterfall
Population
Capital (National)
Capital (State/Province)
City/Large Town
Town/Village
Transport
Airport
Border crossing
Bus
Cable car/Funicular
Cycling
Ferry
Metro station
Monorail
Parking
Petrol station
S-Bahn/S-train/Subway station
Taxi
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Train station/Railway
Tram
Tube station
U-Bahn/Underground station
Other Transport
Note: Not all symbols displayed above
appear on the maps in this book
Routes
Tollway
Freeway
Primary
Secondary
Tertiary
Lane
Unsealed road
Road under construction
Plaza/Mall
Steps
Tunnel
Pedestrian overpass
Walking Tour
Walking Tour detour
Path/Walking Trail
Boundaries
International
State/Province
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
Hydrography
River, Creek
Intermittent River
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Reef
Areas
Airport/Runway
Beach/Desert
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Glacier
Mudflat
Park/Forest
Sight (Building)
Sportsground
Swamp/Mangrove
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