Hair growth cycle Anti-hairloss and Hair growth promoter 2 Hair cycle of head hair shaft Stage of the hair cycle В‰ Anagen : the growing phase В‰ Catagen: the intermediate phase В‰ Telogen : the shedding phase Hair growth cycle Exp. Gerontol. 2002;37:981-90. 3 Causes of hair loss Hair Loss В„ Hair follicle gradually terminated В‰ Terminal hair changes to vellus hair Vellus hair : Terminal hair = 6-8 : 1 Normal Vellus hair : Terminal hair = 0.1-3.9 : 1 Bald В‰ В„ В„ В„ 5 Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 4 Reduction in hair follicle function due to male hormones Reduction in metabolic functions of hair follicles and hair bulbs Reduction in scalp physiological functions Local impairment of circulation due to tension in the scalp 6 1 В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ Physical stress Emotional stress Diet considerations Hormonal causes Endocrinopathy Oral medications: Hair Loss Overall causes В„ Androgen В„ Genetic В„ Age Blood thinning agents Retinoids В‰ Antihypertensive agents В‰ Miscellaneous В‰ Androgenic alopecia В‰ Testosterone 5О±-Dihydrotestosterone 7 Semin. Cutan. Med. Surg. 1998;17:276-283. 9 8 Semin. Cutan. Med. Surg. 1998;17:276-283. 10 A. Regional scalp hair density scale B. Regional scalp zones F : Frontal M : Mid T : Temporal V : Vertex Regions of scalp potentially involved in pattern hair loss J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2001;45(suppl):S70-80. Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 11 J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2003;48:253-62. 12 2 Hair loss patterns in male Male Pattern (Hamilton/Norwood) J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 1985;13:185-92. 13 Graduation of hair loss in Ludwig pattern J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2003;48:253-62. Diffuse Frontal Accentuation (Ludwig) (Olsen) Hair loss patterns in female J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2003;48:253-62. 14 Graduation of hair loss in frontal accentuation pattern 15 J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 2003;48:253-62. 16 Big head? Bald head? Savin patterns of hair loss Med. Hypo. 2009; 72: 23-28. J. Am. Acad. Dermatol. 1999;40:106-9. Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 17 18 3 Basic ingredient and function Hair care products В„ Hair В„ Hair В„ Hair В„ Hair В„ Hair В„ cleansing products growth promoters grooming cosmetics waving and straightening products coloring products В„ В„ В„ В„ Detergent : removes dirt, styling products, sebum and skin scale from hair and scalp Foaming agent: allows shampoo to foam Conditioner : soften and smoothen hair after sebum removal Thickener : thicken shampoo Opacifier : makes shampoo opaque 19 20 Basic shampoo categories Basic ingredient and function В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ Sequestering agent : prevent soap scum from forming on hair and scalp in hard water В„ В„ pH adjusters or neutralizer : minimize hair damage from base Fragrance : give acceptable smell В„ В„ В„ Preservative : prevent microbial and fungal contaminations В„ Specialty additive : treatment ingredient or marketing aid to impart other benefit to shampoo В„ В„ В„ В„ 21 Active ingredients : Hair loss В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ Active ingredients : Hair loss Finasteride : 5О±-reductase Type II inhibitor Minoxidil : vasodilator (long lasting anagen) Dutasteride or GI198745 : 5О±-reductase inhibitor Iamin or prezatide copper : 5О±-reductase inhibitor Folligen or copper chloride : 5О±-reductase inhibitor Zinc : hair growth, 5О±-reductase Type I inhibitor Polysorbate 80 : hair growing improvement В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ 23 Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. Normal hair shampoo Dry hair shampoo Damaged hair shampoo Oily hair shampoo Everyday shampoo Deep cleaning shampoo Baby shampoo Medicated shampoo Conditioning shampoo Hair dyeing shampoo Ethnic shampoo 22 MK-386 or ОІ-dimethyl-4-aza-5-cholestan-3one: 5О±-reductase inhibitor WO9704002 : 5О±-reductase inhibitor FCE28260 : 5О±-reductase inhibitor FCE26073 or Turosteride : 5О±-reductase Type II inhibitor Ketoconazole : Androgenetic blocker 24 4 Active ingredients : Hair loss В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ Active ingredients : Hair loss Canrenone 2% Spironolactone 3% Dexamethasone Prednisone Cyclosporin A Cyproterone acetate Flutamide Drospirenone Bromocriptine В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ Amino acids : hair growth and healthy, 5О±reductase inhibitor Biotin : hair nutrient and hair growth Folic acid : hair nutrient and hair growth Procyanidin B3 : hair thickener Azelaic acid : strong DHT inhibitor Ferritin B7, B12 25 Active ingredients : Hair loss В„ Isoflavone В„ В„ В„ В‰ В„ В„ В„ В„ Daizein Genistein Glycitein В„ Essential fatty acid В‰ Lignans В„ В„ 5О±-reductase inhibitor Hair regrowth promoter Phytoestrogens В‰ 26 Enterodiol Enterlactone В‰ Bisnapthaquinone Capsaicin (-)-epoglaaocatechin-3-gallate Soymethide-4 В‰ В‰ В„ Оі-linolenic acid, О±-linolenic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, myristoleic acid palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid Evening primrose oil Emu oil ОІ-sitosterol 27 28 Pygeum : Pygeum africanum Saw palmetto : Serenoa repens - DHT formation inhibitor - Androgenic blocker - 5О±-reductase inhibitor - 5О±-reductase inhibitor 29 Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 30 5 Chillies - Capsaicin Holy basil : Ocimum sanctum 31 32 False daisy: Eclipta alba Fenugreek : Trigonella foenum - Multivitamin B - Hair root strengthen - DHT formation inhibitor - Hair growth promoter 33 False daisy: Eclipta alba Treatment Folicle count 1% minoxidil 2% minoxidil 34 Fennel : Foeniculum vulgare Skin thickness, Ојm Anagen induction, % 69 В± 3.9 160.2 В± 10 87.5 73 В± 8.2 253.25 В± 6.6 87.5 1.6 mg E.alba 39 В± 8.4 417.4 В± 35.9 50 3.2 mg E.alba 66 В± 7.3 480.4 В± 41.2 87.5 - Antiinflammatory - Androgenic blocker - 5О±-reductase inhibitor J. Ethanopharmacol. 2009. doi:10.1016/j.jep.2009.05.023 35 Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 36 6 Bayberry : Myrica rubra Nettle : Urtica dioica - 5О±-reductase inhibitor - Hair growth stimulant - Anti hair loss - Androgenic blocker - DHT blocker - 5О±-reductase inhibitor - Blood circulator 37 38 Arborvitae : Thuja Arborvitae : Thuja - 5О±-reductase Type II inhibitor - sebum reduction Compounds 5О±-reductase Type II inhibitor, IC50 Linoleic acid 31.55 Ојg/ml (112.50 ОјM) Оі-Linolenic acid 5.55 Ојg/ml (19.93 ОјM) T. occidentalis 2.6 Ојg/ml Finasteride 0.34 ОјM J. Dermatol. Sci. 2003; 31: 91-98. 39 Avocado : Persea americana Gourds - 5О±-reductase Type I inhibitor - Sebum secretion reduction - Antidandruff - Antiitching - 5О±-reductase inhibitor - Anti hair loss 41 Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 40 42 7 Burdock : Arctium lappa Hop : Humulus lupulus - 5О±-reductase inhibitor - Hair growth stimulant - Scalp tonics - Scalp tonics - Antidandruff - Antiitching - Anti hair loss - Hair sheening 43 44 Grape seeds Pumpkin - proanthocyanidins - in vitro hair follicle proliferation promotion - in vivo Telogen converts to Anagen - 5О±-reductase inhibitor 45 Willow 46 Black cohosh : Cimicifuga racemosa - Antiinflammatory - 5О±-reductase inhibitor - Hair loss treatment - 5О±-reductase inhibitor 47 Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 48 8 Soy bean Ginkgo : Ginkgo biloba Flax seed - Hair regrowth promoter - Astringent - Epidermis growth stimulant - Antiinflammatory - Radical scavenger - 5О±-reductase inhibitor - Grey hair treatment 49 Tea : Camellia sinensis 50 Sophora : Sophora flavescens - Antioxidant - Androgenic blocker -5О±-reductase inhibitor - 5О±-reductase Type II inhibitor -Similar activity with saw palmetto - Anagen elongation activity 51 52 Breadfruit: Artocarpus incisus Licorice : Glycyrrhiza glabra - DHT formation inhibitor - Hair loss treatment 5О±-reductase Type II inhibitor - Chlorophorin IC50 37 ОјM - Artocarpin IC50 85 ОјM Melanin biosynthesis inhibition Planta Medica 2000; 66: 16-19. 53 Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 54 9 Henna : Lawsonia inermis Linn. Aloe : Aloe vera L. Hair growth accelerator Leaf extracts have mild antiinflammatory and antiallergic action and analgesic effect - Traditionally for hair loss - Improve hair growth following alopecia Impart dark red shades : Lawsone 55 Rhinacanthus nasutus Kurz. 56 Butterfly pea : Clitoria ternatea - Hair loss treatment - Grey hair treatment - Antiinflammatory - Antioxidant - Hair growth promoter - Grey hair recover 57 58 Citrus grandis Citrus hystrix DC. Skin & scalp tonic Exfoliation refresh - Wound healing - Antidandruff - Soft & smooth hair 59 Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 60 10 Sapindus rarak A. DC. Acacia concinna DC. Wound healing - Cleansing - Shining - Antidandruff 61 62 Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. Sesame : Sesamum indicum Linn. Antioxidant Wound healing Blood circulation Scalp conditioning Energy stimulant Detergent Anti hair loss - Skin & scalp soother - Antioxidant - Natural moisturizer 63 Coconut : Cocos nucifera Linn. 64 Cymbopogon citratus Stapf - Oily and grease hair treatment - Antidandruff - Antiseptic - Saturated fatty acid - Lauric acid - Myristic acid 65 Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 66 11 Garlic : Allium sativum L. Ginger : Zingiber officinale Roscoe - Dandruff control - Antiseptic - Tonic - Antioxidant - Antiinflammatory - Antibacterial - Antifungal - Antiinflammatory - Blood circulation stimulant - Muscle relaxation - Hair loss treatment 67 68 Rice: Oryza sativa Ginseng : Panax ginseng - Skin & scalp conditioning - Moisturizer - Emollient - Antioxidant - Skin & scalp soften - Aniinflammaroty - Blood circulation - Cell regeneration 69 Almond: Prunus amygdalus Sage : Salvia officinalis L. - Skin conditioning - Moisturizer - Sun protect - Hair conditioning - Maintain the sheen of dark curly hair - Strengthen and stimulate hair growth - Antidandruff - Anti hair loss - Greasy hair treatment 71 Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 70 72 12 Rosemary : Rosmarinus officinalis Linn. - Stimulate hair growth - Antioxidant - Greasy hair conditioner - Gives body and sheen to hair - Daily antidandruff treatment Thyme :Thymus vulgaris L. - Inhibit dandruff - A scalp rub to prevent hair falling out - Promote natural hair health 73 Swertia japonica Makino 74 English Walnut Juglans regia L. - Eczema - Acne - Hair loss - Scalp itching - Scalp peeling - Dandruff - abdominal pain - skin infection - blood circulation - hair growth stimulant - Emollient - Skin disorder treatment: crack, abrasion, frostbite, chaps - Sun burn treatment 75 - Nappy rashes 76 Propolis Honey - Antifungal - Antibacterial - Similar activity with aloe - Hair growth promoter - Skin & scalp conditioning 77 Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. Black walnut : Juglan nigra 78 13 Plants Parts Alpinia galanga Leaves 5О±-reductase inhibitory activity, % 0 Tamarindus indica Leaves 0 Albizia myriophylla Leaves 5 Acacia concinna Fruits 21 Flagellaria indica Leaves 23 Leucaena leucocephala Leaves 25 Citrus hystrix Fruit peels 25 Clitoria ternatea Flowers 29 Eucalyptus sp. Leaves 47 Passiflora foetida Fruits 47 Piper betle Leaves 51 Mitragyna hirsuta Leaves 53 Artocarpus altilis Leaves 75 Ixora maerothyra Leaves 79 Citrus hystrix Fruit juices 14 J. Wood Sci. 2000; 46: 385-389 Hair loss treatment example products Provillus Conc. 200 Ојg/ml 79 Hair loss treatment example products 80 Hair loss treatment example products - Kigelia africana - Niacin - Biotin - Plant Phytosterols - Saw Palmetto Berry - Macadameia Nut oil - Borage Oil - Evening Primrose oil - Pygeum africana - Green tea extract - Salvia sclarea - Gingko biloba - Cinnamomum zeylanicum - Panax ginseng 81 Hair loss treatment example products 82 Hair loss treatment example products - Linolenic acid - Linoleic Acid - Oleic Acid - Azaleic acid - Vitamin B6 - Zinc - Saw Palmetto Extract - ОІ-Sitosterol - Procyanidin Oligomers Minoxidil 5% w/v for men Minoxidil 2% for women 83 Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 84 14 Hair loss treatment example products Hair loss treatment example products - Hops extract - Rosemary extract - Swertia extract - Saw palmetto - zinc - nettles - pumpkin seed extract - Si compounds - Panthenol 85 Hair loss treatment example products 86 Hair loss treatment example products - Soy bean - Panax ginseng - Castanea sativa - Swertia extract - Arinca montana - Hedera helix - Geranium maculatum - Inositol, Panthenol - Cystine, Cysteine, Methionine - Biotin 87 Hair loss treatment example products 88 Hair loss treatment example products - Biotin - Zinc PCA - Panax ginseng, Ginkgo biloba, Swertia japonica, Palmaria palmata, Soy bean germ, Glycyrrhiza glabra extracts - Simmondsia chinensis Oil, - Benzyl Nicotinate, Inositol, L-Cystine, Cysteine, Choline, Niacin, Methionine 89 Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. 90 15 Hair growth promoters evaluations Hair growth promoters evaluations Animals Mice В„ hair length В„ hair growth area Rabbits В„ hair length and weight Hamsters В„ sebaceous glands size (in vivo) В„ 5О±-reductase inhibition (in vitro) В„ DHT receptor inhibition (in vitro) Monkeys В„ hair growth at head Humans В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ Tissue culture В„ В„ photographic evaluation trichogram method 5О±-reductase inhibition hair wash test blood flow measurement hair roots culture hair root cells culture 91 Hair growth promoters evaluations : Mice 92 Biometrological Test Hair Loss / Hair Growth Principle - Anti-hair loss efficacy - Anti-hair regrowth products - Videomicroscope visualizations Protocol design - Long term studies: M0-M1-M2 - Up to M0-M3-M6 studies - Female and male volunteers - No age criteria VideotrichogramВ® 30 days application of Asiasari radix extract 1% solution in 40% EtOH Illustrations : J. Dermsci. 2005; 38:89-97. 93 Selected references В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ В„ Lee OS, Kang HH, Han SH. 1997. Oriental herbs in cosmetics. Cosmet Toiletries 112:57-64. Kameyama S. 1995. Application and consideration of medicinal plants for hair care products. Frag J 23:28-34. Takahashi T, Kamiya T, Yokoo Y. 1998. Proanthocyanidins from grape seeds promote proliferation of mouse hair follicle cells in vitro and convert hair cycle in vivo. Acta Derm Venerol 78:428-432. Kim SH, Jeong KS, Ryu SY, Kim TH. 1998. Panax ginseng prevents apoptosis in hair follicles and accelerates recovery of hair medullary cells in irradiated mice. In vivo 12:219-222. Camacho-MartГnez FM. 2009. Hair loss in women. Semi. Cutan. Med. Surg. 28:19-32. Yonenaga M. 2001. Henna leaf extracts and makeup materials containing henna. Jpn Kokai Tokkyo Koho Patent JP2001335496. Bruneton J. 1999. Pharmacognosy, Phytochemistry, Medicinal Plants. Lavoisier Publishing: Paris. 95 Nattaya Lourith, Ph.D. the telogenous hairs D0 94 D2 Thank you for your attention 96 16