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Color Manual - Kenra Color

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Color Manual
Table of Contents
1 Discover
Kenra Color
pages 2 - 3
2 Hair fundamentals
pages 4 - 7
3 Kenra Color
pages 8 - 12
4 Permanent Color
pages 13 - 21
5 Demi-permanent
Color
pages 22 - 25
6 Color Support
pages 26 - 28
7 Technical Application
Reference
pages 29 - 30
DISCOVER Kenra COLORВ®
A COLOR PALETTE WITH NO BOUNDARIES
Kenra ColorВ® from Kenra ProfessionalВ® makes it easier
than ever to achieve Simply Stunning ResultsВ®. This highperformance, straightforward and easy-to-use haircolor
line produces consistent, reliable results that stylists can
count on. Kenra Color is committed to providing you all
the tools needed for true-to-tone haircolor solutions on
every client, every time.
For high performance, Kenra Color incorporates Balancing Complex 5В®, our proprietary blend of
five essential haircolor attributes designed to meet the needs of stylists and clients alike. We are
committed to providing each of your clients with results that far exceed their expectations.
Kenra Color is supported by an education platform ensuring straightforward, easy-to-use haircolor
that is infused with artistic influence and inspiration. Ease meets artistry through our unique haircolor
fundamentals including the Five Step Approach to Color Formulation and Elements of Design, our
signature guide to haircolor application.
The Kenra Color portfolio includes both Permanent and Demi-permanent offerings, each with a
balanced shade collection of warm and cool tones that are intermixable for basic to advanced color
formulation. Kenra Color provides unlimited haircolor versatility allowing the stylist to be as technical
or as creative as they want.
Like KenraВ®, Kenra PlatinumВ® and Kenra SmoothВ®, Kenra Color maintains our commitment to the
professional beauty industry. We continue to deliver high-quality, performance-driven, professional
haircare solutions to help deliver the results you and your clients have come to expect.
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 1
1 Discover Kenra Color
Notes
KENRA COLOR FROM KENRA PROFESSIONAL
Why Kenra Color?
Kenra Color was developed with both the professional stylist and their clients in mind. This highperformance haircolor line produces consistent, reliable results that stylists can count on to provide
true-to-tone haircolor solutions on every client, every time. You can color confidently for Simply
Stunning Results both you and your clients have come to expect.
We know you have options when choosing a color line. We have worked hard to develop a system
that not only meets your needs, but far exceeds your expectations.
Performance – Our product offers consistent, reliable, true-to-tone haircolor solutions to meet all of
your haircoloring needs. Kenra Color provides vibrant, long-lasting color and outstanding coverage
and color saturation ensuring full gray coverage. Our gentle formulation leaves your hair with
improved condition and manageability, and intense shine.
Ease of Use and Superior Education – Our education platform outlines our Five Steps to Color
Formulation ensuring our system is straightforward and easy for you to use. Kenra Professional will
continue to provide the same level of superior education, training and customer support that you’ve
come to expect.
Artistic Influence – Ease meets artistry through Elements of Design, Kenra Color’s signature guide
to haircolor application. It supports the Five Steps or Less Approach to Haircolor Application and
unites inspiration and formulation with technical application.
Value – Professional haircolor services remain the largest and most powerful category for growth.
Kenra Color provides unparalleled value and will positively impact your bottom line while providing
an incredible value for your client.
Versatility – Kenra Color provides all the tools needed to be as technical or as creative as you want
offering a newfound freedom to create customary looks for each and every one of your clients.
Kenra Color is truly a color palette with no boundaries.
What is Kenra Color?
Kenra Color incorporates Balancing Complex 5, a proprietary blend of five essential
haircolor attributes.
1. Vibrant, long-lasting color
2. Intense shine
3. Improved condition and manageability
4. Gentle formulation
5. Outstanding coverage and
color saturation
2
Discover Kenra Color
Kenra Color Portfolio
Notes
The Kenra Color portfolio provides you all the tools needed for consistent, reliable, true-to-tone
haircolor solutions. Whether you are just starting your career or you are an experienced colorist,
we’re confident Kenra Color will give you the versatility to create Simply Stunning Results.
Our portfolio includes:
- Permanent Coloring Cremes in a gentle, low-ammonia formulation available in a wide array
of warm and cool tones that deliver vibrant, long-lasting results and outstanding coverage
and color saturation including full gray coverage
- Demi-permanent Coloring Cremes formulated without ammonia providing an
extremely gentle formulation for improved condition and manageability with intense shine
- A Permanent Blonding Category including a variety of offerings such as our Kenra Color
Lightener Collection, High Lift Series and the extremely versatile Blonding Creme
- Permanent Color Boosters available in five shades designed to increase color vibrancy
or give special effects to any Kenra Color Permanent formulation
- Demi-permanent Rapid Toners available in four no ammonia shades designed to
process and tone in 5 minutes or less
- Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes available in three shades for use in color corrective services to
replace underlying pigments prior to Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent coloring
- A Color Correcting System to gently, quickly and safely remove oxidative pigments
- A variety of Color Support Tools including Porosity Equalizing Spray and Stain Removing Wipes
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 3
2 Hair fundamentals
HAIR STRUCTURE
The success of any haircolor service depends on the coloring products and techniques selected
by the stylist, as well as understanding the physical nature of the hair itself. This section explores
the fundamentals of hair – its structure and unique characteristics – and their role in the haircolor
process. At Kenra Professional, we believe that understanding the structure of your client’s hair
is just the beginning of the overall consultation process. Each strand of hair has three main
components: the cuticle, the cortex and the medulla.
Cuticle
The cuticle refers to the outside layer of the hair shaft. It is composed of transparent, overlapping
and protective scale-like cells. The cuticle protects the inner structure of the hair. A healthy, flat
cuticle layer promotes strength, shine and the overall appearance of the hair.
Cortex
The cortex is the center part of the hair and makes up the majority of the hair shaft. It gives the
hair its special qualities such as elasticity and curl. The cortex is packed with strands of keratin
that lie along the length of the hair. Oxidative pigments are developed or oxidized in the cortex
with permanent and demi-permanent haircolor.
Medulla
Finally, the medulla is the canal-shaped innermost part of human hair. It has no known
function and not all hair contains a medulla.
Cuticle
Cortex
Medulla
Cross-section
of hair strand
4
Hair fundamentals
HAIR CHARACTERISTICS
Notes
Texture
Texture is the diameter of the individual hair strand. Determining hair texture by touching and visually
examining it tells you what the hair can and cannot do on its own. Texture is generally referred to as
fine, medium or coarse.
Fine
Medium
Coarse
Density
The density of the hair is determined by the number of active hair follicles per square inch on the
scalp and determines how much color mixture is needed for the color service. It can influence the
look of color because it affects the way light is reflected or absorbed.
Thin
Medium
Thick
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 5
2 Hair fundamentals - continued
Porosity
Did you know?
Using Kenra Color Porosity
Equalizing Spray prior to
Permanent or Demi-permanent
color services ensures even
pigment absorption on hair
with uneven or high porosity.
Porosity refers to the ability of hair to absorb and hold liquids. Some factors that contribute to hair’s
porosity include past chemical services, environmental damage and mechanical (hot tools and
brushing/combing) damage. Accurately judging the hair’s porosity is critical for color and developer
selection. All haircolor durability is related to the porosity of the hair, which is usually described as
low, average, or high. Low porosity may cause the hair to absorb color at a slower rate whereas high
porosity absorbs color quickly and also tends to fade away more readily.
Notes
Low porosity
High porosity
Formation
Did you know?
Wavy or curly hair can look
less reflective because it can
absorb light and color. Create
the perfect canvas for a Kenra
Color service by offering
these types of clients a Kenra
Smooth service. What’s more,
complete both services in one
salon visit, saving time for your
client and creating a greater
revenue opportunity for you,
the stylist.
Hair formation refers to its shape and pattern. It can influence the look of color because it affects
the way light is reflected or absorbed. Forms of hair are described as straight, wavy or curly.
Follicle Shape
Hair Pattern
Color Reflection
Straight hair begins with a straight hair
follicle and has a sphere-shaped hair
strand. It is generally more reflective
because of its solid, smooth surface.
Wavy hair begins with a curve in the
hair follicle and has an oval-shaped
hair strand. It can absorb light and
may look less reflective.
Curly hair begins as a curved hair
follicle and has a flat/oval-shaped
hair strand. It can absorb light and
may look less reflective.
6
Hair fundamentals
HAIRCOLOR FUNDAMENTALS
Hair Strand
Notes
Pigment Types
Direct Dyes – These are color pigments that can actually
be seen. They do not require an oxidative agent (hydrogen
peroxide). Direct dye pigments are typically larger and
remain on the outer portion of the hair shaft. They can have
a staining effect on the hair.
Indirect Dyes
Indirect Dyes – These are also called oxidative or
intermediate dyes. They require an oxidative agent such as
hydrogen peroxide to develop the pigments. The pigments
Direct Dyes
oxidize within the cortex of the hair shaft.
Haircolor Categories
Haircolor type
Oxidative
agent
Color
penetration
Ammonia
Chemical hair
change
Semi-permanent
No
Coats the cuticle
and penetrates
the outer layer
of the cortex.
None
Uses large, direct
dyes and does
not alter natural
pigment.
Demi-permanent
Yes
Penetrates
the cuticle and
multiple layers
of the cortex.
None
Can be a
combination of
direct and indirect
pigments and is
deposit only.
Fades gradually
and washes out
to the original color
of the hair.
Permanent
Yes
Fully penetrates
Usually contains
the cortex. After the some amount of
color is oxidized,
ammonia.
the cuticle closes
and the color stays
inside which gives
the hair its new color.
Permanently alters
the hair shaft
and can cause
movement or lift
of natural melanin
and deposit in one
process.
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 7
3 Kenra Color
Notes
THE LAW OF COLOR
Primary Colors – Three colors that make up all other
colors (yellow, red, blue).
Secondary colors – A mix of two primary colors
(orange, violet, green).
Tertiary colors – A mix of a primary color and a
secondary color (yellow orange, red orange, red violet,
blue violet, blue green, yellow green).
Complementary colors – Colors found opposite of
each other on the color wheel. In haircolor, they have
several important functions:
- They neutralize or cancel out the other one when they are mixed
together, and produce a neutral color, such as dark gray or brown
- They neutralize any unwanted tones in the hair. For example, a blue-based
color eliminates unwanted orange tones
- They also complement each other when placed side by side
Kenra Color Level System
The Kenra Color Level System denotes the degree of darkness
or lightness of the hair. It ranges from 1-10 with 1 representing
Level
10 Extra Light Blonde
09 Light Blonde
the darkest form of brown (referred to as Black) and 10
08 Blonde
indicating the lightest (referred to as Extra Light Blonde).
07 Medium Blonde
Note: This system does not observe level two because
06 Dark Blonde
levels below three are difficult to differentiate to the
05 Light Brown
human eye.
04 Medium Brown
03 Dark Brown
01 Black
Kenra Color Shade Identifier
Dominant Color
The Kenra Color shade identifier is easy to read and follows a
standard numerical and alphabetical identification system.
Number = Level Identification
First Letter = Dominant Color Reflection
Second Letter = Secondary Color Reflection
8
Level
Secondary
Reflection
Kenra Color
Shades and Tones
Notes
Kenra Color offers a variety of shade families in a balanced collection of warm and cool tones to meet
the needs of any client. Each shade series allows for ease of mixing and delivers intense shine and
maximum coverage.
Natural: Combination of the three primary colors calibrated at the designated
Shade Chart
level to achieve full gray coverage (Permanent) and natural gray coverage up to
NNatural
75% (Demi-permanent). The proper amount of the Natural Series should be added
NA
into any formulation to achieve gray coverage (see Gray Coverage chart).
Natural Ash
AAsh
Natural Ash: Calibrated at each level to optimize gray coverage and neutralize
AA
Ash Ash
warmth. Covers and blends gray while controlling underlying pigment in
SM
Silver Metallic
a single process.
B
Brown / Beige
BC
Brown Copper
Ash: Neutralizes unwanted warmth to produce a cooler end result.
The Ash Series is formulated to neutralize underlying pigment.
GGold
GB
Gold Brown / Beige
Ash Ash: Increased ash pigments for added neutralization
CCopper
of unwanted warm tones.
CG
Silver Metallic: Cool blue tones supported by blue violet secondary reflection.
RRed
Copper Gold
RR
Red Red
RB
Red Brown
RC
Red Copper
Brown Copper: Warm brown dominant tones supported
VR
Violet Red
by copper secondary reflection.
RV
Red Violet
Brown/Beige: Warm reflective brown tones from levels 4-7
and beige tones for levels 8-10.
Gold: Adds warmth to any color, increased light reflection and a natural gold tonality.
Gold Brown/Beige: Dominant gold tones with secondary brown undertones.
VViolet
PV
Pearl Violet
Clear Gloss (no pigment)
Copper: Brilliant warm red / orange tones.
Copper Gold: Dominant reflective copper tones with secondary gold reflection.
Red: True red tones for maximum vibrancy.
Red Red: Superior vibrancy and pure red end results.
Red Brown: Dominant red tones supported by secondary reflection of brown.
Red Copper: Dominant red tones supported by copper undertones for vibrancy.
Violet Red: Dominant violet tones supported by red undertones for cool vibrancy at darker levels.
Red Violet: Dominant red tones supported by cool violet undertones.
Violet: Pale violet tone to reduce or tone unwanted yellow.
Pearl Violet: Combination of blue violet and violet tones to neutralize unwanted yellow-gold tones.
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 9
3 Kenra Color - continued
NATURAL
KENRA COLOR SHADE CHART
P = Permanent
1N
P/D
3N
P/D
4N
P/D
5N
P/D
6N
P/D
7N
P/D
Natural Ash
5NA
P/D
6NA
P/D
9N
P/D
7NA
P/D
8NA
P/D
1A
D
4A
P/D
7AA
P
7SM
P
8AA
P
8SM
P
10
7A
P/D
8A
P
BROWN COPPER
5B
P/D
6B
P
7B
P/D
8B
P/D
10B
P/D
4BC
P
6BC
P
7BC
P
GOLD BROWN
6G
P/D
7G
P
COPPER
5C
P/D
6A
P/D
10SM
P
GOLD
5G
P
5A
P
SILVER METALLIC
BROWN
4B
P/D
D = Demi-permanent
10N
P/D
ASH
ASH ASH
6AA
P
8N
P/D
8G
P/D
9G
P
10G
D
5GB
P
COPPER GOLD
6C
P/D
8C
P/D
5CG
P/D
7CG
P/D
8CG
P
9CG
P
8GB
P/D
9GB
P/D
10GB
P
9A
P
10A
P/D
Kenra Color
RED
RED RED
P = Permanent
D = Demi-permanent
4R
P/D
5R
P
6R
P/D
7R
P
4RR
P/D
RED BROWN
4RB
P
5RB
P/D
7RR
P
RED COPPER
6RB
P
7RB
P/D
VIOLET RED
3VR
P/D
6RR
P/D
5RC
P
RED Violet
3RV
P
5VR
P/D
Clear
5RV
P
6RC
P/D
VIOLET
Pearl
Violet
10V
D
9PV
D
6RV
P
High Lift
Gloss
D
Gold
Natural
P
Natural
P
Pearl
Ash
P
Ash
P
Blonding
Creme
P
RAPID TONER
SV
D
VP
D
CR
D
GC
D
Copper
P
Gold
P
Violet
P
Booster
Red
P
Blue
P
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 11
3 Kenra Color - continued
ELEMENTS OF DESIGN
REMEMBER
All of our Kenra Color techniques
utilize Elements of Design and
can be completed in 5 steps or
less. You have access to all of
our application guides and our
latest artistic collections online
at kenracolor.com.
Elements of Design is Kenra Color’s signature guide to haircolor application. It supports our 5 Steps
or Less Approach to Haircolor Application and unites inspiration and formulation with technical
application. For Kenra Color, it’s truly where ease meets artistry.
Foundation Color: Primary overall color; incorporates 75% or more of total color.
Anchor Color: Supportive color designed to influence contrast of the Foundation Color and
is usually within 1 to 2 levels of the Foundation Color.
Accent Color: Emphasis colors to draw the eye to a particular area creating contrast
Notes
and can be used as both a highlight and lowlight.
Accent Color
Anchor Color
Foundation Color
12
4 Permanent Color
KENRA COLOR PERMANENT PORTFOLIO
Gentle, low-ammonia color available in a wide array of multidimensional tones that deliver consistent, reliable results.
1. Features Balancing Complex 5
2. Provides vibrant, long lasting results
REMEMBER
Kenra Color does not
recommend the use of a dryer,
steamer or accelerator drops
for processing.
3. Full gray coverage
4. Intense shine
Permanent Coloring Creme and Developer
Notes
Kenra Color Permanent Coloring Creme Developers were
specially formulated for use with Kenra Color Permanent
Coloring Cremes. Available in 10 Volume (3%), 20 Volume (6%),
30 Volume (9%), and 40 Volume (12%) strengths to ensure proper
lift of natural hair and oxidation of dye intermediates. Creamy
consistency allows for precise application for all of your haircolor needs. Our standard mixing ratio
and processing time for Kenra Color Permanent Color is one part Permanent Coloring Creme plus
one part Developer (1:1) for 30 minutes at room temperature. If you are processing gray hair, mixing
ratio remains the same; however, you will want to process up to 40 minutes.
Kenra Color Permanent Color Mixing Ratio
One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer (1:1)
1 + 1
Processing Time
30 Minutes
Processing Time for Gray Coverage
Up to 40 Minutes
Developer
Levels of Lift
10 Volume (3%)
Tone-on-tone / deposit only*
20 Volume (6%)
1 level of lift / deposit / gray coverage*
30 Volume (9%)
2–3 levels of lift*
40 Volume (12%)
3–4 levels of lift*
*Based on texture, density, and porosity.
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 13
4 Permanent Color - continued
Underlying Pigment
REMEMBER
The final result of any haircolor
service relies on a blend of
the color selected by the
stylist and the contribution of
underlying pigment.
Notes
Underlying pigment refers to the undertones that are exposed anytime natural haircolor is lifted.
Generally, this affects the outcome of a color formulation when there is lifting of two or more levels
and the volume of developer selected affects underlying pigment exposed in the lifting process. It
is often necessary to add a neutralizing color into a formulation to ensure control of an unwanted
underlying pigment. Use this cart to determine what underlying pigment will be exposed at the level
you are coloring to and what neutralizing color can benefit your color formulation.
Level
Underlying Pigment
Neutralizing Color
10 Extra Light Blonde
Pale Yellow
Ash, Violet or Silver Metallic
09 Light Blonde
Yellow Gold
Ash or Pearl Violet
08 Blonde
Light Gold
Ash or Silver Metallic
07 Medium Blonde
Gold
Ash or Silver Metallic
06 Dark Blonde
Gold Orange
Ash
05 Light Brown
Orange
Ash
04 Medium Brown
Dark Orange
Ash
03 Dark Brown
Red Orange
N/A
01 Black
Darkest Red Orange
N/A
Gray Coverage
Gray hair is typically more
% of Gray
% of Natural Series
% of Desired Color
resistant to coloration
25%
25%
75%
50%
50%
50%
50–100%*
75%
25%
because it has a harder
cuticle layer. It is often
thought to be very healthy
and void of all natural
*When hair is 80% gray or more, 20 Volume Developer is recommended.
pigment, but in reality, gray
hair is the lightest form of the three primary colors and requires increased pigmentation for coverage.
Kenra Color Permanent Natural Series provides the essential balance of pigments to ensure even
color saturation and maximum pigment uptake and should be incorporated into all gray coverage
formulations for full gray coverage. Mixing ratio remains at one part Permanent Coloring Creme plus
one part Developer (1:1); however, suggested processing time is up to 40 minutes.
14
Permanent Color
5 EASY STEPS TO COLOR FORMULATION
Notes
Kenra Color streamlines the art of haircolor formulation with five easy steps that provide
consistent, reliable results on every client, every time.
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 5
Finalize the formulation
Step 1: Determine the natural level of the hair
- Analyze the client’s natural level by holding the Natural Series swatches against the
client’s regrowth area and determine which one achieves a blend of the same level.
- Remember, you are only looking for the level of the natural hair, not the tonality.
- If the natural hair level falls between two levels, choose the lighter level when depositing
color (going darker), or the darker level when lifting color (going lighter).
Step 2: Determine the desired level / desired tone
- Select the appropriate color shade utilizing your swatchbook for reference.
Step 3: Define levels of lift, deposit, or tonal change
- Use the developer / levels of lift chart to determine the Developer required to ensure proper
lifting during the coloring process.
Step 4: Determine the percentage of gray
- Identify the correct percentage of gray to assess how much of the Kenra Color Natural Series
should be incorporated into the formulation. Reference our gray coverage chart.
- When hair is 80% gray or more, a 20 Volume Developer is recommended.
- The recommended processing time is up to 40 minutes.
Step 5: Identify the underlying pigment
- Determine the underlying pigment at the desired level you are coloring to.
- Assess whether it will enhance the desired color shade and tone or if you will need
to add a neutralizing color to the formulation to control the underlying pigment.
Reference our underlying pigment chart.
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 15
4 Permanent Color - continued
Notes
STANDARD COLOR FORMULATION EXAMPLES
Example 1: Lift
The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 5 (1 level lighter) with a rich brown tone.
The client has 0% gray hair.
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 4
2: The desired level / desired tone is 5B
Processing Time
30 Minutes
3: The level of lift is 1
4: The percentage of gray is 0
5: The underlying pigment is not a factor
(only one level of lift)
Final Formulation:
______________________________________________________________________________________
Recap: The natural level is a 4 with no gray. The desired level and tone is 5B. Because only
one level of lift is required, the formulation uses Developer 20 Volume, and the underlying
pigment does not impact the desired tone. The mixing ratio is equal parts of Developer 20
Volume and 5B. Processing time is 30 minutes.
Example 2: Deposit
The client is a natural level 7. The desired level is 6RB (1 level darker) with a rich red brown tone.
The client has 0% gray hair.
Formulation Notes
1: The natural level is 7
2: The desired level / desired tone is 6RB
3: The level of deposit is 1
Processing Time
30 Minutes
4: The percentage of gray is 0
5: The underlying pigment is not a factor as color
is being deposited, not lifted
Final Formulation:
______________________________________________________________________________________
Recap: The natural level is a 7 with no gray. The desired level and tone is 6RB. Because it is
1 level darker, the formulation uses Developer 10 or 20 Volume and underlying pigment is not
a factor. The mixing ratio is 1 part 6RB plus 1 part Developer 10 or 20 Volume. Processing
time is 30 minutes.
16
Permanent Color
Notes
Example 3: Gray Coverage
The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 5 (1 level lighter) with a rich brown tone.
The client has 50% gray hair.
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 4
2: The desired level / desired tone is 5B
Processing Time
40 Minutes
3: The level of lift is 1
4: The percentage of gray is 50
5: The underlying pigment is not a factor (only one level of lift)
Final Formulation:
______________________________________________________________________________________
Recap: The natural level is a 4 with 50% gray. The desired level and tone is 5B. Because only
1 level of lift is required, the formulation uses Developer 20 Volume, and the underlying pigment
does not impact the desired tone. The mixing ratio is 1 part 5N plus 1 part 5B plus 2 parts
Developer 20 Volume (See Gray Coverage chart). Processing time is 40 minutes.
Example 4: Underlying Pigment
The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 7 (3 levels lighter) with a brown tone.
The client has 0% gray hair.
Formulation Notes
1: The natural level is 4
2: The desired level / desired tone is 7B
3: The level of lift is 3
Processing Time
30 Minutes
4: The percentage of gray is 0
5: The underlying pigment is gold
Final Formulation:
______________________________________________________________________________________
Recap: The natural level is 4. The desired level and tone is 7B. For three levels of lift, the formulation
requires Developer 40 Volume. To balance the exposed gold underlying pigment, a neutralizing color
(ash) is incorporated. The 7A helps to control the gold tones at a level 7 (See Underlying Pigment
chart). The mixing ratio is 1 part 7A plus 1 part 7B plus 2 parts Developer 40 Volume (Note: The
amount of the neutralizing color can vary as desired). Processing time is 30 minutes.
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 17
4 Permanent Color - continued
BLONDING WITH KENRA COLOR
Did you know?
Kenra Color Silver Metallics
allow you to display your
artistic abilities, creating cool,
silver appearances in lighter
colored hair while helping to
neutralize underlying pigment.
Available in 7SM, 8SM and
10SM and can be used on
pre-lightened hair to achieve
a cool, silver result.
Kenra Color Lightener Collection
Kenra Color offers two lightener
Developer Choices
Application
options to meet the needs of
10 Volume (3%)
On or off the scalp
20 Volume (6%)
On or off the scalp
30 Volume (9%)
Off the scalp
stylists and clients alike. Kenra
Color Lightener features a
blue-violet base to help control
unwanted warm tones when lifting
and Kenra Color No Ammonia Lightener is a fragrance-free, white powder formulated without
ammonia. Each dust-free lightener powder can remove natural or artificial pigments, both indirect
and direct to help eliminate unwanted tones such as ash or red and have a lifting strength of up to
7 levels in a single application. Extremely versatile, each lightener can be applied both on and off
the scalp with Kenra Color Permanent Developer 10 – 30 Volumes in different ratios for multiple
blonding effects – 10 and 20 Volume on the scalp and 10, 20 and 30 Volume off the scalp. Each
Notes
mixture’s creamy consistency retains moisture and is drip-free for ease of use.
Kenra Color Lightener COLLECTION Mixing Ratio
One level scoop plus one part Developer (up to 1:3)
Processing Time
Check result regularly during processing.
Do not exceed 60 minutes.
18
Permanent Color
High Lift
Notes
Kenra Color High Lift Series provides the ability to create superior single process blondes achieving
4-5 levels of lift with maximum neutralization of underlying pigment. These four shades feature a
specially developed base to support lighter lifting and neutralization of underlying pigment, each
providing the same lifting strength with varying degrees of neutralization of underlying pigment.
Achieve best results on level 6 and above, but the series can also be used on level 5 for a warmer
end result. Our standard mixing ratio and processing time for Kenra Color High Lift is one part
Permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Developer (1:2) for 45 minutes at room temperature.
Shade
Used on Natural Level
Developer Volume
Timing
End Result
Gold Natural
Level 6
30 or 40
45 Minutes
Golden Natural Blonde
Natural
Level 6
30 or 40
45 Minutes
Natural Blonde
Pearl Ash
Level 6
30 or 40
45 Minutes
Cooler Blonde
Ash
Levels 5 or 6
30 or 40
45 Minutes
Coolest Blonde
Kenra Color PERMANENT HIGH LIFT Mixing Ratio
One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Developer (1:2)
1 + 2
Processing Time
45 Minutes
Example: Standard Formulation
The client is a natural level 6. The desired level is 10 (4 levels lighter) for a Golden Natural Blonde.
The client has 0% gray hair.
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 6
2: The desired level / desired tone is 10 Golden Natural Blonde
3: The level of lift is 4
4: The percentage of gray is 0
5: The underlying pigment is pale yellow
Final Formulation:
______________________________________________________________________________________
Recap: The natural level is 6. The desired level and tone is 10 Golden Natural Blonde. To achieve
this level of lift, Developer 40 Volume is required to mix with the High Lift Gold Natural (See High
Lift chart). The underlying pigment at a level 10 is pale yellow and is addressed with the pale blue
violet neutralizing pigments. The mixing ratio is 1 part High Lift plus 2 parts Developer 40 Volume.
Processing time is 45 minutes.
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 19
4 Permanent Color - continued
Notes
Blonding Creme
Kenra Color Blonding Creme provides extra lifting support. It features
the same specially developed base as the Kenra Color High Lift Series;
however, it does not contain any neutralizing pigment, therefore it will have
a warmer end result. Blonding Creme is extremely versatile and can be
used for a couple key haircoloring needs. First, it can be used for natural
accent effects, or highlights, when mixed one part Blonding Creme with two
parts Developer (10, 20, 30 or 40 Volume). Second, Blonding Creme can be
added into any Kenra Color Permanent formulation (up to Вј of total color
portion) for added lift, achieving ВЅ - 1 level of additional lift.
Blonding Creme
Mixing Ratio Formula%
For ВЅ - 1
Level of Lift
1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme
1 oz. Permanent Developer
Вј oz. Blonding Creme
(up to Вј of color portion)
Natural
Highlighting
1 oz. Blonding Creme
2 oz. Permanent Developer
EXAMPLE: Standard Formulation for adding Blonding Creme to a permanent color formulation
The client is a natural level 4. The desired level is 8 (4 levels lighter) with a copper tone. The client
has 0% gray hair. The underlying pigment exposed is light gold at a level 8.
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 4
2: The desired level / desired tone is 8C
3: The level of lift is 4
4: The percentage of gray is 0
5: The underlying pigment is light gold
Processing Time
for Lift
30 Minutes
Processing Time for
Natural Highlighting
Up to 45 Minutes
Final Formulation:
______________________________________________________________________________________
Recap: The natural level is 4. The desired level and tone is 8C. To achieve this level of lift,
Developer 40 Volume is required. Вј ounce of Blonding Creme is added to 1 ounce of Permanent
Coloring Creme for additional lift. The underlying pigment is light gold. The mixing ratio is 1 part
8C plus 1 part Developer 40 Volume plus Вј ounce Blonding Creme. Processing time is 30 minutes.
20
Permanent Color
Color Boosters
Color Boosters are designed to create
Notes
custom, signature color shades.
Booster
Shade
Effect
They can be used in any Kenra Color
Gold
Additional gold reflection to any level
Permanent formulation for increased
Blue
Blue enhancement to level 5 and below
Violet
Violet reflection to level 6 and below
Copper
Added copper reflection to any level
Red
Enhanced red reflection to levels 7 and below
color vibrancy or as a stand alone
shade for special effect coloring on prelightened hair. Available in five shades,
each formulated with specifically
balanced color dyes to make it easy
to create signature haircolor or special
effects. For increased color vibrancy,
color boosters can be added into
Booster Use
Mixing Ratio Formula
For Increased
Vibrancy
1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme
any of your Kenra Color Permanent
1 oz. Permanent Developer
formulations up to Вј of your color
Add up to Вј oz. Color Booster
portion. For special effects, or a stand
1 oz. Color Booster
alone shade, our standard mixing
ratio and processing time is one part
Special Effects
1 oz. Permanent Developer
Apply to dry, previously lightened hair
Permanent Color Booster plus one part
Developer (1:1) for 30 minutes at room
temperature.
Example: Increased Vibrancy
The client is a natural level 5. The desired level is 6 (1 level lighter) with a vibrant
copper tone. This client has 0% gray hair.
Mixing Ratio:
One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer 10–40V (1:1) plus
Copper Booster above 1:1 mixing ratio.
Formulation Notes:
1: The natural level is 5
2: The desired level / desired tone is 6C
3: The level of lift is 1
Processing Time for
Increased Vibrancy
30 Minutes
4: The percentage of gray is 0
5: The underlying pigment is gold orange
Final Formulation:
______________________________________________________________________________________
Recap: Based on the natural level 5 hair, the Developer 20 Volume is needed to get 1 full level
of lift. The underlying pigment from a level 5 to a level 6 is gold orange (Note: The underlying
pigment does not need neutralization; it will add to the end result in a positive way). To achieve
the intense copper tone, the Copper Booster is added to the overall formula. Processing time
is 30 minutes.
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 21
5 Demi-permanent Color
Notes
KENRA COLOR DEMI-PERMANENT
PORTFOLIO
Deposit only color formulated without ammonia providing
multiple service options for maximum creativity.
1. Features Balancing Complex 5
2. Formulated without ammonia
3. Natural gray coverage up to 75%
4. Provides vibrant, long lasting results
5. Intense shine
Kenra Color Demi-permanent Coloring Creme Activator
was specially formulated for use with Kenra Color Demipermanent Coloring Cremes allowing for complete oxidation
of all pigments in each and every color formulation. Our
standard mixing ratio and processing time for Kenra Color
Demi-permanent Color is one part Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus
two parts Activator (1:2) for 5-25 minutes at room temperature.
1 + 2
22
Kenra Color DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR Mixing Ratio
One part Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts
Activator (1:2)
Processing Time 5-25 Minutes
Application
Apply from scalp to ends
Demi-permanent Color
Kenra Color Demi-permanent Service Options
Notes
Kenra Color Demi-permanent provides you multiple service options allowing for
maximum creativity and profitability.
Color Enhancing Service
Offer a color enhancing service to enhance any natural color tone or deepen an existing
color tone. First determine the client’s natural level, and then choose the appropriate tone
to accentuate, neutralize or deepen. Use the standard Kenra Color Demi-permanent
mixing ratio and processing time.
Color Equalizing
A color equalizing service is used anytime a client requires a permanent retouch service on
their new growth and needs a corresponding formula to be used on the mid-shaft to ends.
Kenra Color DEMI-PERMANENT COLOR Mixing Ratio
1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme plus 1 oz. Developer
1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus 2 oz. Activator
Note: This service requires two separate formulations (Permanent and Demi-permanent)
Processing Time 15-25 Minutes
Application
Apply Permanent formula to new growth and process
for 15 minutes. Then, apply Demi-permanent formula from mid-length to ends.
Tips:
- On porous hair, spray the ends with Kenra Color Porosity Equalizing Spray.
Then, apply Demi-permanent Coloring Creme on mid-length and ends of hair.
- Demi-permanent Clear can be added to any formulation to dilute the deposit
amount of the pigment while providing maximum shine.
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 23
5 Demi-permanent Color - continued
Gray Blending
DID YOU KNOW?
A Clear Gloss Service is a
great option to offer your
client that regularly schedules
haircuts only or for your
highlighted blondes looking
for increased shine.
The Kenra Color Demi-permanent line delivers natural gray coverage up to 75% in a no ammonia
formulation. This is the perfect suggestion for clients who do not want to commit to a permanent
haircolor. Formulating with the Natural or Natural Ash Series ensures optimal gray coverage.
1 + 1
Kenra Color DEMI-PERMANENT
GRAY BLENDING Mixing Ratio
Natural Series - One part combination of desired Demi-permanent
Coloring Creme shade and Natural Series plus one part Demipermanent Activator (1:1)
Natural Ash Series - One part desired Natural Ash Demi-permanent
Coloring Creme shade plus one part Demi-permanent Activator (1:1)
Notes
Processing Time Up to 25 Minutes
Application
Apply to dry hair
Clear Glossing
Clear Glossing services add intense shine and increase manageability for previously
colored, lightened or highlighted hair. Kenra Color Demi-permanent Clear Gloss features
Balancing Complex 5; however, this deposit-only formulation is clear so it can be used on
any hair type or color for maximum shine and improved condition.
1 + 2
Kenra Color CLEAR GLOSSING SERVICE Mixing Ratio
One part Demi-permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts
Activator (1:2)
Processing Time Up to 25 Minutes
Application
Apply glossing formula to freshly
shampooed and conditioned
towel-dried hair
Toning
Toning Services are recommended to tone
Toning Service
Shade Selections
Warm Blonde Toning
10G / 8C / 8G
Cool / Pastel Blonde Toning
10A / 10V / 9PV
selections are available in warm and cool
Natural Blonde Toning
8GB / 9GB
options each ensuring maximum shine and
Beige / Blonde Toning
10B / 8B
unwanted warmth for highlighted or previously
lightened hair and can take as little as
five minutes at the shampoo bowl. Shade
condition on any pre-lightened hair.
24
Demi-permanent Color
Rapid Toners / Dimensional Toning
Notes
In addition to Kenra Color Demi-permanent Toning services,
Kenra Color also offers Demi-permanent Rapid Toners designed
to process and tone in 5 minutes or less. These no ammonia,
deposit-only colors have been formulated to enhance blonde
levels 8, 9 and 10 or to be a multi-dimensional tone refresher for
any haircolor. They offer versatility for adding multi-dimensional
tones in four warm or cool shades.
1 + 2
Kenra Color RAPID TONERS / DIMENSIONAL
TONING Mixing Ratio
1 oz. Demi-permanent Rapid Toner Coloring Creme plus
2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Processing Time 5 Minutes or less
Application
Apply from scalp to ends to freshly
shampooed and conditioned
towel-dried hair
Rapid Toner Shade
Effect
Golden Copper
Toning with a gold copper reflection and result
Copper Red
Toning with a copper red reflection and result
Violet Pearl
Toning with a violet pearl reflection and result
Silver Violet
Toning with a silver violet reflection and result
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 25
6 Color Support
Notes
Color Corrective Services
Color Corrector
The Color Correcting System gently, quickly and safely
removes oxidative pigments without disturbing the
natural pigments in the hair. Its two-part, non-bleach
formulation mixes into an easy-to-apply cream and
can be used with or without heat. The removal process
can be repeated up to a total of three times and a color
service can be performed immediately after the color
correcting process.
Kenra Color COLOR CORRECTOR SYSTEM Mixing Ratio
One part Lotion 1 plus one part Lotion 2 mixed in equal parts
Processing Time 20 Minutes
Application
Apply to dry hair and process under
heat or at room temperature
Technical Application
1. Perform a strand test for accuracy and capability to remove unwanted color.
2. In a non-metallic bowl or mixing bottle, mix one part Lotion 1 with one part Lotion 2 (mixing ratio
1:1). The total amount of mixture required depends on the length of the hair that needs correction.
3. Apply a plastic cap over hair and process 20 minutes. (Heat option: Place under medium
heat to accelerate the process. Check periodically.)
4. Rinse hair thoroughly. Cleanse hair with an appropriate shampoo - Kenra Clarifying Shampoo
is recommended. Then, apply Demi-permanent Coloring Creme Activator or Permanent
Coloring Creme Developer 10 Volume to the hair for 3 minutes to neutralize. Rinse thoroughly.
5. If sufficient color has not been removed or if the haircolor has become darker, repeat the process
on damp, towel-dried hair. You can reapply color corrector up to 3 times in one day.
6. Shampoo and condition thoroughly. An appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner are
recommended. Dry the hair and proceed with your Kenra Color application.
26
Color Support
Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes
Notes
Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes are designed for use in color
corrective services to gently replace underlying pigments prior to
Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent coloring and are ideal
for achieving results two or more levels darker than existing level.
These color cremes are specifically formulated to mix with water
for proper oxidation of the pigments and ideal product viscosity.
Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Coloring Cremes support the consistent,
reliable results of Balancing Complex 5 and are available in three
intermixable shades to meet your color corrective needs.
- Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Red: when
coloring with all red or violet shades and
when coloring back using dark natural
shades (levels 1 - 3)
- Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Copper: when
coloring with all copper shades and
when coloring back using medium
natural shades (levels 3 - 6)
- Kenra Color Pre-Pigment Gold: when
coloring with all golden shades and
when coloring back using light natural
shades (levels 6 - 8)
Level Pale Yellow
Pre-Pigment Creme
10 Pale Yellow
None
09 Yellow Gold
None
08 Light Gold
Gold
07 Gold
Gold
06 Gold Orange
Gold and Copper
05 Orange
Copper
04 Dark Orange
Copper
03 Red Orange
Copper and Red or Red
01 Darkest Red Orange
Red
Kenra Color PRE-PIGMENT Mixing Ratio
One part Pre-Pigment Coloring Creme plus one part water
1 + 1
Processing Time 10 Minutes
Application
Spray hair with Kenra Color Porosity
Equalizing Spray and apply pre-pigment
color. Towel blot excess Pre-Pigment
Coloring Creme from hair. Apply desired
Kenra Color Permanent or Kenra
Color Demi-permanent formulation.
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 27
6 Color Support - continued
Notes
Color Support Products
Kenra Color offers a range of Color Support Products to maximize your
color experience and ensure Simply Stunning Results. Each of these tools
can be incorporated into any Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent
color service.
Porosity Equalizing Spray
Porosity Equalizing Spray ensures even pigment absorption on hair with
uneven or high porosity. This gentle, lightweight formula also assists in
conditioning and detangling the hair and is designed for use prior to a
Kenra Color Permanent or Demi-permanent color service.
Porosity equalizing spray
Application
Spray in sections and comb through for even distribution.
For fine hair, select 1” sections. For medium hair, select ½”
sections. For thick hair, select ¼” sections.
Stain Removing Wipes
Stain Removing Wipes gently remove unwanted color on the
skin that may occur during color services. Formulated with
Aloe Vera to provide gentle use on all skin types.
STAIN REMOVING WIPES
Application
Open the package and remove the wipe. Gently
massage over the stain on the skin to remove color.
Follow with a damp cloth.
28
7 Technical Application Reference
Kenra Color makes it easier than ever to achieve Simply Stunning Results. Reference our
Notes
technical application section for a synopsis of Kenra Color Permanent and Demi-permanent
service options with related technical support.
Kenra Color Permanent Service Options
Services
Formulation
Permanent
Coloring Creme
and Developer
Formulation:
One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus one part Developer (1:1)
Processing time: 30 Minutes, up to 40 Minutes processing time for gray coverage
Lightener
Formulation:
One level scoop plus one part Developer (up to 1:3)
Processing time: Check result regularly during processing, do not exceed 60 minutes
High Lift
Formulation:
One part Permanent Coloring Creme plus two parts Developer (1:2)
Processing time: 45 Minutes
Blonding Creme
Formulations:
For ВЅ - 1 Level of Lift, mix 1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme, 1 oz. Permanent Developer and
Вј oz. Blonding Creme (up to Вј of color portion).
For Natural Highlighting, mix 1 oz. Blonding Creme and 2 oz. Permanent Developer.
Processing time: 30 Minutes for Lift, up to 45 Minutes for natural highlighting
Color Boosters
Formulations:
For increased vibrancy, mix 1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme, 1 oz. Permanent Developer
and add up to Вј oz. Color Booster.
For special effects, mix 1 oz. Color Booster and 1 oz. Permanent Developer.
Processing time: 30 Minutes for increased vibrancy
Note: Use the appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner at the end of every Permanent
Color Service to assist in color retention and help maintain the healthy condition of hair.
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 29
7 Technical Application Reference - continued
Notes
Kenra Color Demi-permanent Service Options
Services
Formulation
Enhancing
Formulation:
1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply formula from scalp to ends
Processing time: Up to 25 Minutes
Equalizing
Formulation:
1 oz. Permanent Coloring Creme + 1 oz. Developer
1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Activator
Note: This service requires two separate formulations (Permanent and Demi-permanent)
Application:
> Apply Permanent formula to new growth for 15 minutes
> Then apply Demi-permanent formula from mid-length to ends
Processing time: 15-25 Minutes
Gray Blending
Formulations:
Natural Series: 1 oz. Combination of desired shade and Natural Series
+ 1 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Natural Ash Series: 1 oz. Natural Ash Series + 1 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply formula to dry hair
Processing time: Up to 25 Minutes
Clear Glossing
Formulation:
1 oz. Demi-permanent Clear + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply to dry or towel-dried hair
Processing time: Up to 25 Minutes
Toning
Formulation:
1 oz. Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply toning formula to freshly shampooed and conditioned hair
Processing time: 5-25 Minutes
Toning with
Rapid Toners
Formulation:
1 oz. Rapid Toner Demi-permanent Coloring Creme + 2 oz. Demi-permanent Activator
Application: Apply to freshly shampooed and conditioned damp hair.
Processing time: 5 Minutes or less
Note: Use the appropriate Kenra shampoo and conditioner at the end of every Demi-permanent
Color Service to assist in color retention and help maintain the healthy condition of hair.
30
Notes
Kenra ColorВ® Manual 31
Notes
32
A color palette with no boundaries.
KENRA COLOR
Need more information?
We are here to help.
(800) 930-7777
[email protected]
kenracolor.com
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