otkrijte tajne dobrinjskoga

V O D I Č
Z N A M E N IT O ST I
-
ATT R A CT I O N
G U I D E
Tajne Dobrinjskoga
Pregled znamenitosti i
zanimljivosti Dobrinjskoga,
koje vrijedi pronaći, razgledati
i upamtiti.
Sažet opis popraćen
fotografijama i GPS
koordinatama)
An overview of the sights and
interesting attractions of the
Dobrinj Region (Dobrinjsko)
worth finding, exploring and
remembering.
A brief description
accompanied by
photographs and
GPS coordinates.
OTKRIJTE TAJNE DOBRINJSKOGA
Od stoljeća sedmog
2
DISCOVER THE SECRETS OF THE DOBRINJ REGION
Since the 7th century
„Od stoljeća sedmog“ vjerojatno, od „leta 1100.“ zasigurno su tu...
sa samo jednom vizijom, jednim ciljem – preživjeti. Jedan cilj,
jedna vizija, volja kao jedino uporište, žuljevite, izranjavane ruke
kao jedini alat. Zemlja, kamen, drvo, pijesak, more, voda – sve to
prolazi kroz njihove ruke. Ruke koje, svijesno trpeći studen i žegu,
rane i boli, oblikuju svoje i živote njima najbližih, a istovremeno
nesvjesno oblikuju djelić po djelić povijesti Dobrinja i dobrinjskoga kraja...
They have probably been here ‘since the 7th century’ (‘od stoljeća sedmog’) and definitively
since ‘the year 1100’ (‘leta 1100’). They had only one vision, one goal: to survive. One goal, one
vision, strong will as the only thing to hold onto, and blistered, wounded hands as their only
tool. Dirt, stone, wood, sand, sea, water, etc. They work with all these materials. The hands
that, consciously suffering the freezing cold and the scorching heat as well as the wounds and
the pains, shape their own and the lives of their closest ones, at the same time unconsciously
shaping bit by bit of the history of Dobrinj and the Dobrinj Region.
Od „leta od Hristova rojstva 1100”, tj. od prvog pisanog spomena
Dobrinja, pa tijekom narednih stoljeća, njihove su ruke ostavljale
trag. Tragovi njihove borbe za život nadživjeli su brojne druge borbe
i nedaće, te su danas tek podsjetnici, simboli prohujalih vremena.
Since ‘the year 1100 after the birth of Christ’ (‘leta od Hristova rojstva 1100’), i.e. since the first
written mention of Dobrinj, and throughout the ensuing centuries, their hands have been
leaving traces. The traces of their fight to survive have outlived numerous other fights and
misfortunes, and are today only the reminders, i.e. symbols, of the times gone by.
U traganju za tim vremenima, naišli smo na mnoge vrijedne, a
premalo ili nimalo isticane tragove prošlosti. Uz ovaj katalog
lako ćete ih pronaći! Vrijedi ih pogledati i upamtiti... jer
sve su to stvorili oni – mali, obični ljudi... Posvetimo
stoga ovaj katalog njihovoj uspomeni!
In the search of those times, we have come across numerous valuable yet too little or not at
all highlighted traces of the past. You will easily find them with this catalogue, however! They
are worth seeing and remembering since all of them were created by the common, ordinary
people. So, let’s dedicate this catalogue to their memory!
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
3
MAP OF THE SIGHTS
KARTA ZNAMENITOSTI
A list of the sights on the territory of the
Municipality of Dobrinj divided into the
Soline Bay (Uvala Soline), Šilo, Dobrinj and
the inland.
Popis zmamenitosti na području Općine
Dobrinj podijeljene na Uvalu Soline, Šilo,
Dobrinj i unutrašnjost.
IC
EN
V
IK
E65
A
CR
E65
LJ
IŠA
OM
D102
IK
BN
VR
E
IC
IV
NJ
SK
IN
AL
M
ŠK
BA
D102
A
T
NA
PU
D102
ŠK
AR
ST
KR
SK
BI
L
VA
A
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
Karta znamenitosti/ Attraction map
Karta znamenitosti/ Attraction map
A
K
D104
4
A
BA
A
5
ZNAMENITOSTI
UVALE SOLINE
Od davnine određena morem, odnedavno - zahvaljujući ljekovitom mulju - Uvala
Soline postaje jedno od atraktivnijih ljetnih
odredišta, a prirodno okruženje jednaku
ugodu pruža i putnicima/ namjernicima
koji ju pohode i tijekom zimskih mjeseci.
IZDVOJENO
Antički lokalitet Sveti Petar, kojim, uz
izvorni krajobraz, dominiraju ostaci
srednjovjekovne crkvice posvećene
svecu kojemu su povjereni ključevi
raja.
THE SIGHTS OF
THE SOLINE BAY
Determined by the sea since the
ancient times, the Soline Bay has recently
become, due to its healing mud, one of the
more attractive summer destinations, and
its natural environment offers the same
pleasure to chance travellers who come
here during the winter months.
1
CRKVICA SV. KLEMENTA I GLAGOLJAŠKI NATPIS
CHAPEL OF SAINT CLEMENT AND THE GLAGOLITIC INSCRIPTION
N 45 09.315
E 14 37.215
N 45 09.292
E 14 37.220
HIGHLIGHTS
Saint Peter (Sveti Petar), an ancient
site dominated by an authentic
landscape and the remnants of a
medieval church dedicated to the
saint to whom the keys to heaven
have been entrusted.
VIŠE NA STR. 12
MORE AT PAGE 12
P
Pod protektoratom Krčke biskupije samo je jedna crkvica posvećena rimskom
biskupu i učeniku svetog Petra, svetom Klementu. Ovo minijaturno, ali vrijedno romaničko
zdanje stoji usred Klimna, mjesta koje je ime dobilo upravo po crkvici, čiji prvi spomen
datira u 1381. godine. Malena obujmom, crkvica svetog Klementa diči se vrijednom
baroknom oltarnom reljefnom palom, koja je proglašena nacionalnim spomenikom
kulture. Crkvica svetog Klementa u Klimnu u svojim je počecima pripadala obitelji
Malatestinić iz obližnjih Solina. Spomen na tada uglednu (po svemu sudeći imućnu) obitelj
i danas postoji. Njihovo je prezime uklesano uglatom glagoljicom na nadvratniku kuće
nedaleko crkvice. Uz prezime Malatestinić stoji i godina 1514.
Znamenitosti uvala Soline / Sights in Soline Bay
6
Only one chapel under the protectorate of the Krk Diocese is dedicated to Saint
Clement (Sveti Klement), a Roman bishop and St. Peter’s disciple. This miniature yet
precious Romanic building stands in the centre of Klimno, a village named after the
chapel that was first mentioned in 1381. Small in size, the Chapel of Saint Clement (Crkvica
Svetog Klementa) boasts a valuable Baroque altar relief painting proclaimed a national
cultural monument. The Chapel of Saint Clement in Klimno belonged in its beginnings
to the Malatestinić family from the nearby village of Soline. The then respectable and,
judging by all, wealthy family is remembered to this day. Their surname is engraved in
cuneiform Glagolitic letters on the transom of a house standing not far away from the chapel.
The year 1514 is inscribed next to the surname Malatestinić.
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
Znamenitosti uvala Soline / Sights in Soline Bay
O
7
2
SIDRO
ANCHOR
3
N 45 09.286
E 14 37.200
I
I laici po pitanju mora i pomorstva znali bi odgovor na pitanje što je sidro, ali
rijetki su oni koji će dati točan odgovor na pitanje gdje se na otoku Krku nalazi
najveće sidro? Odgovor na pitanje nalazi se u Klimnu, u središtu mjesta. Uvjerite se
sami da je zaista riječ o sidru „rekorderu“ na otoku, a usuđujemo se zaključiti – i šire!
8
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
N 45 09.052
E 14 36.561
P
Potreba je najbolji učitelj, veli stara poslovica, kojom su se vjerojatno vodili i oni koji su kruh
za sebe i svoje zarađivali prodajući drva za ogrjev u Rijeci, Crikvenici itd. Mnogi od tih
„prijevoznika“ bili su analfabeti, tj. nepismeni, ali istovremeno i mudri: kako za trgovanja ne
bi bili prevareni, dali su napraviti „kalup“ za tzv. “bodulski metar drva“. Koliko metara,
toliko kovanica, ili kasnije papira! Djelić te prošlosti možete pogledati na jednom
od ishodišta nekadašnjih trgovaca, na rivi (mulu) u Solinama…
N
Necessity is the best teacher, goes the old saying. The people who earned a
living for themselves and their families by selling wood for heating in Rijeka,
Crikvenica, etc. probably lived by it as well. Many of those ‘shippers’ were
unalphabets, i.e. illiterates. They were wise nevertheless: in order to avoid being
cheated during a trade-off, they had a ‘mould’ made for the so-called ‘islander’s
wood measuring tape’ (‘bodulski metar drva’). As many meters, that many coins and
later bills! You can witness a part of that history at one of the departing points of the
former merchants, i.e. on the waterfront (pier) in Soline.
Znamenitosti uvala Soline / Sights in Soline Bay
Znamenitosti uvala Soline / Sights in Soline Bay
E
Even those who are laymen when it comes to the sea and seamanship know the
answer to the question: what is an anchor? However, rare are those who will give
a correct answer to the question: where is the largest anchor on the Krk Island
located? The answer is: in the centre of Klimno. See for yourselves and you will discover that it is
truly a ‘recorder’ of the island and, we dare say, even wider!
BODULSKA MJERA ZA DRVA
AN ISLANDER’S MEASURE FOR WOOD
9
4
ŠTRADA
ŠTRADA
5
N 45 09.016
E 14 35.971
S
I
I
Znamenitosti uvala Soline / Sights in Soline Bay
Intended for the swimmers in the summer and promenaders during the rest of the
year in more recent times, it was, until the second half of the 20th century, a place
full of barrels in which the locals cooked salt day and night. They would later trade
it for flour, sugar, and similar across the territory of Slavonia, Zagorje, etc. While
strolling along the štrada (waterfront) in Meline near Soline, try to picture in your mind a roof
tile factory in that landscape. It really existed there in the 19th century! The workers from the
factory would spend their short breaks during the scorching months on the štrada.
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
S pravom je prozvana izvorom života. Brojne su djevojke i žene pomoću
nje pokušale zaraditi za život, no nerijetko su studen i žega uzimali njihove
živote. „Perila“, svakidašnje postaje „težakinja“, mjesta na kojima su usred zime
razbijale led, a ljeti vrebale na dragocjene kapi. Jedno takvo perilo i danas se može
vidjeti u središtu Čižića, ili, kako domaći stanovnici kažu,“perilo pod topol“. A
koncem 19. i početkom 20. stoljeća, mladići koji bi odlazili u potragu za boljim životom
u Ameriku, zavjete ljubavi svojim izabranicama izražavali bi upravo Pod topolon!
It was rightfully proclaimed a source of livelihood. Numerous girls and women tried
to earn their living using it but it often happened that they would lose their lives in
the freezing cold or the scorching heat. Perila were washing places used daily by the
hard-labouring women (‘težakinje’), where they had to break ice during the winter and wait
for precious drops during the summer. One such perilo can be seen today in the centre of
Ćižići or as the locals would call it ‘perilo pod topol’ (a perilo under the poplar-tree). At the end
of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century, young men going to America in
search of a better life made their romantic promises to their chosen ones exactly under that
poplar-tree (‘pod topolon’)!
Znamenitosti uvala Soline / Sights in Soline Bay
10
N 45 09.360
E 14 35.838
I
I dok je u novije doba namijenjena kupačima ljeti, a šetačima u ostatku
godine, do polovice 20. stoljeća bila je puna bačvi, u kojima su ovdašnji
stanovnici danju i noću kuhali sol, te je za brašno, šećer i sl. mijenjali po Slavoniji,
Zagorju i sl. Dok se budete šetali „štradom“ (rivom) na Melinama kod Solina, pokušajte
u tom krajobrazu zamisliti tvornicu crijepova; vjerovali ili ne, postojala je u 19. stoljeću!
A radnici iz tvornice kratkotrajni bi odmor za vrelih mjeseci potražili upravo na „štradi“…
PERILO
PERILO
11
6
OSTACI CRKVE SV. PETRA
REMNANTS OF THE CHAPEL OF SAINT PETER
7
N 45 09.853
E 14 36.382
P
F
B
Znamenitosti uvala Soline / Sights in Soline Bay
From the died-out villages of the Dobrinj Region, the toponyms of which have been
preserved, we would like to highlight Šugare (located next to Rudine). Not far from
this village that died out in the first decade of the 19th century, there is an ancient
site called Saint Peter (Sveti Petar) dominated by an authentic landscape and the
remnants of a medieval chapel dedicated to the saint to whom the keys to
heaven have been entrusted. A piece of this earthly heaven awaits you in this part of the
Dobrinj Region. Go in and see for yourselves. It’s open!
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
Po kiši, suncu, magli ili vedrini nije ga teško uočiti. Ako ga i ne tražite, on se
sam pokazuje, „nudi“. Iako je malen opsegom, odaju ga njegove razvaline,
relikti
prošlosti.
Bolje
rečeno,
ostaci
nekadašnjeg
ugostiteljskog
objekta,
restorana „Veli Škoj“. „Veli Školjić“, samo „Škoj“, ovaj je otočić u uvali Soline među
domicilnim stanovništvom poznat i po četvrtom imenu, odnosno jednom od
najstarijih dobrinjskih prezimena, „Kirinčić“.
Be it rain, sun, fog or clear weather, you cannot miss it. Even if you are not looking for it, it
presents itself; it ‘offers’ itself to you. Although small in area, its ruins, relics of the past, attract
attention. More precisely, the remnants of an old restaurant named Veli Škoj. Veli Školjić or
simply Škoj is an islet in the Soline Bay (Uvala Soline) known to the locals also as Kirinčić,
which is its fourth name and one of the oldest surnames in the Dobrinj Region.
Znamenitosti uvala Soline / Sights in Soline Bay
12
N 45 09.807
E 14 36.785
O
Od
izumrlih
sela
na
Dobrinjskom,
čiji
su
toponimi
ipak
sačuvani,
izdvajaju se Šugare (pored Rudina). Nedaleko ovog, u prvoj dekadi 19. stoljeća
izumrlog sela, nalazi se antički lokalitet Sveti Petar, kojim uz izvorni krajobraz, dominiraju
ostaci srednjovjekovne crkvice posvećene svecu kojemu su povjereni ključevi raja. A
djelić zemaljskog raja čeka na vas i na ovome dijelu Dobrinjskoga… uđite i uvjerite
se - otključano je!
OTOČIĆ ŠKOJIĆ
‘ŠKOJIĆ’ ISLET
13
8
RUDINE I ŠPILJA BISERUJKA
RUDINE AND THE BISERUJKA CAVE
N 45 11.052
E 14 36.723
9
N45
4511.246
09.807
N
14 36.582
36.785
EE 14
T
14
I
It is impossible to resist the progress of civilisation, or maybe it is? A few (literally a few!)
permanent inhabitants of one village on the eastern part of the island of Krk would
replace the word ‘maybe’ with ‘certainly’. More precisely, although keeping pace with the
times, the village of Rudine still walks the paths of old or even ancient times and preserves
the original architecture. Not only that: the nearby Biserujka Cave (Špilja Biserujka) of 110
metres in length has for centuries been hiding a pirate treasure in its depths. No one has
been able to find it yet. Maybe you will be so lucky as to find that treasure and the
permanent inhabitant of the Biserujka Cave, the endemic and only 5 mm long crab of the Alpioniscus christiani species!
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
N 45 11.259
E 14 36.763
J
Jednu od najljepših plaža na otoku Krku čuva Uvala Slivanjska („Slivonjska“ u
dobrinjskom govoru). Osim ove pješčane ljepotice, u Uvali se nalaze se i ostaci jedne
ideje, koja je, nažalost, ostala smo ideja, ideja o gradnji „bijelog hotela“. Od ideje o
bijelom hotelu, koja se razvijala početkom i sredinom prošlog stoljeća, ostalo je
ono na čemu je ideja stala – kamenje…
O
One of the most beautiful beaches on the island of Krk is found in the
Slivanjaska Cove (Uvala Slivanjska or Slivonjska in the dialect of Dobrinj). Except for this
beautiful sandy beach, the Cove also preserves the memory of an idea, which has
unfortunately remained nothing more but an idea, an idea of building a ‘white hotel’
(‘bijeli hotel’). What was left from the idea of building a white hotel, which was developed
at the beginning and in the middle of the past century, are only the stones representing the
point where the idea was abandoned.
Znamenitosti uvala Soline / Sights in Soline Bay
Znamenitosti uvala Soline / Sights in Soline Bay
Tekovinama civilizacije nemoguće je oduprijeti se... ili možda ipak je?
Nekolicina (doslovce nekolicina!) stalnih stanovnika jednog sela na istočnoj
obali otoka Krka ovo „možda“ zamijenili bi riječju „sigurno“. Jer Rudine, iako ukorak s
vremenom, i dalje kroče putevima (pra)davnih dana, čuvajući izvorno
graditeljstvo. I ne samo to: obližnja špilja Biserujka, dužine 110 metara, u svojoj dubini
vjekovima skriva blago koje su zaplijenili gusari. Još ga nitko nije uspio pronaći – možda
se vama posreći pronaći blago, ali i stalnog stanovnika „Biserujke“ endemskog račića
Alpioniscus christiani, dugog samo 5 milimetara!
UVALA SLIVANJSKA
SLIVANJSKA COVE
15
10
FRANE I LIJANA
FRANE AND LIJANA
11
N 45 11.075
E 14 37.123
S
16
E
Every love story has its beginning and its end, and every end is a new beginning. Who would
have though that the sad end of a love story would be the beginning of a legend which
would be imparting the strength of true love for several centuries?! Frane and Lijana, just like
Romeo and Juliet, were not allowed to legalise their relationship due to social norms and
status differences. While running away from those who were against the young couple’s
romantic relationship, Frane and Lijana found their eternal resting place in the ‘azure tomb’
(‘modri grob’). The legend about the unfortunate newlyweds later became the topic of
folk songs. An anonymous folk artist also carved the images of Frane and Lijana
on one cliff close to Rudine. It’s worth seeing and imagining.
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
N 45 09.597
E 14 38.793
M
More daje, more uzima… U noći sa 7. na 8. siječnja 1968. more, potpomognuto
vjetrom, u svoje je dubine nedaleko od Šila povuklo grčki teretni brod „Peltastis”. Od
dvanaest članova posade spasila su se četvorica. Kapetanovo tijelo pronađeno
je u olupini broda nekoliko mjeseci kasnije. „Peltastis“ još uvijek u jednom komadu
stoji u uspravnom položaju, na dubini od 33 metra. Brod tragičar postao je jedna od
najpopularnijih ronilačkih destinacija na Kvarneru.
T
The sea gives, the sea takes. In the night between 7 and 8 January 1968 not far from
Šilo, the sea, with the help of the wind, pulled to its depths a Greek freight ship called
Peltastis. From the twelve crewmembers, only four survived. The captain’s body was
found in the shipwreck a few months later. Peltastis still stands in one piece in an
upright position at the depth of 33 meters. This tragic ship later became one of the most
popular diving sites in the Kvarner Region.
Znamenitosti uvala Soline / Sights in Soline Bay
Znamenitosti uvala Soline / Sights in Soline Bay
Svaka ljubavna priča ima svoj početak i završetak, a u svakome završetku
krije se neki novi početak… Tko je mogao pomisliti da će tužni završetak jedne ljubavne
priče biti početak legende, koja će nekoliko stoljeća prenositi snagu prave ljubavi?! Franu i
Lijani, inačicama Romea i Julije, društvene norme i klasne razlike ograničavale
su ozakonjenje njihove ljubavi. Bježeći od onih koji su se protivili ljubavi mladog
para, Frane i Lijana posljednje su počivalište pronašli u „modrome grobu“.
Legenda o nesuđenim mladencima postala je tema narodnih pjesama, a na
jednoj stijeni nedaleko Rudina, anonimni je pučki umjetnik uklesao likove Frana i Lijane.
Vrijedi pogledati. I zamisliti se...
POTOPLJENI BROD “PELTASTIS”
PELTASTIS SHIPWRECK
17
ZNAMENITOSTI
ŠILA I OKOLICE
THE SIGHTS OF ŠILO AND
THE SURROUNDING AREA
Iako jedno od naseljenošću mlađih mjesta Dobrinjskoga, Šilo se afirmiralo kao
turističko središte Općine Dobrinj, ali i kao
kolijevka krčkog parobrodarskog društva,
te polazište prve trajektne linije na Jadranu
(1958.god.).
Although one of the more recently
inhabited villages in the Dobrinj Region,
Šilo has affirmed itself as a tourist centre
of the Municipality of Dobrinj and as the
cradle of the Krk Steamboat Association
and the point of departure of the first ferry
line in the Adriatic Region (1958).
IZDVOJENO
12
TUNERA
TUNERE
N 45 09.332
E 14 40.162
HIGHLIGHTS
Ostaci rimske vile – natpis je koji
će vas uz pomoć sličnih oznaka
odvesti do ostataka bizantske
utvrde, koja datira iz 6. stoljeća.
The Remnants of a Roman Villa (Ostaci rimske vile). This is a
signboard inscription which will, with
the help of other similar signs, lead
you to the remnants of a Byzantine
fort dating from the 6th century.
VIŠE NA STR. 22
MORE AT PAGE 22
O
Od starih Feničana do novijeg doba manje-više zadržale su isti oblik
gradnje i istu nakanu, a posebno su prisutne diljem sjevernog Jadrana. Tunere ili
drvene osmatračnice s ljestvama, evociraju dane kada je lov na tune bila jedna od
primarnih ribarskih aktivnosti. Uspješan ulov tune jamčio je dobru zaradu, a tijekom
svjetskih ratova doslovce osiguravao egzistenciju ovdašnjeg stanovništva. Kad bi
tunere mogle pričatu… koliko bi samo priča o spašenim životima i nahranjenim gladnim
ustima mogla ispričati tunera na Punti Šila…
12
F
14
18
ŠILO
POLJE
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
15
Znamenitosti Šilo / Sights in Šilo
Znamenitosti Šilo / Sights in Šilo
13
From the time of the old Phoenicians to the modern era, they have more or less
preserved the same type of construction and the same intended use, and are
especially found across the Northern Adriatic Region. Tunere or wooden
observation posts with ladders evoke the memory of the days when tuna fishing was
one of the primary fishing activities. A successful catch of tuna guaranteed good
earnings, and during world wars it literally provided sustenance for the local population.
If only ‘tunere’ could talk. Just imagine how many stories about lives saved and hungry
mouths fed the ‘tunera’ on the Šilo Cape (Punta Šila) could tell.
19
13
SIDRO
ANCHOR
14
N 45 08.811
E 14 39.860
P
Podsjetnik na jednu od najvećih pomorskih nesreća na Jadranu sačuvan je i
na kopnu i u moru; riječ je o već spomentom grčkom brodu „Peltatstis“, zauvijek
usidrenom na morskome dnu, ali jedan njegov detalj ipak na danjem svjetlu svjedoči o tragediji. Riječ je o sidru s “Peltastisa” koje je izvađeno iz olupine potonulog broda… I kao da želi reći:
„Ploviti se ipak mora“…
20
A reminder of one of the largest maritime catastrophes in the Adriatic Region has been
preserved both on the land and in the sea. We are referring to the already mentioned ship
called Peltastis which is forever anchored at the bottom of the sea. There is a part of it, however,
that bears witness to the ship’s tragic fate that is visible in the daylight. We are speaking
of the anchor of the Peltastis which has been pulled out from the shipwreck and now
stands as if trying to say: ‘One must sail nevertheless’ (‘Ploviti se ipak mora’).
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
N 45 08.908
E 14 39.684
N
Nisu daleko za nama ostala vremena kada je na Dobrinjskom jedna od
garancija donekle pristojne egzistencije bio pijesak. Zahvaljujući Krčkom
parobrodarskom društvu, osnovanom u Šilu 1905. godine, ustalila se djelatnost
prevoženja pijeska („mela“) iz Šila do Rijeke, Crikvenice, Opatije itd. A prijevozu je
prethodilo mukotrpno iskopavanje pijeska iz „Kave“ (između Šila i Polja), zatim
prijevoz zaprežnim kolima do rive u Šilu, a potom iskrcaj pijeska na tzv. „place“,
odakle bi se opet pijesak ukrcavalo na brodove. Jer ploviti se mora, ali i živjeti se mora…
a pomorski je kruh, kruh sa sedam kora…
T
The times when sand was one of the things that promised a relatively decent
existence in the Dobrinj Region are not long gone. Thanks to the Krk
Steamboat Association, founded in Šilo in 1905, the activity of shipping sand (locally
known as ‘mel’) from Šilo to Rijeka, Crikvenica, Opatija, etc. became permanently
established. What preceded the shipping was the hard job of excavating the sand from
Kava (between Šilo and Polje). Afterwards, the sand was transported by a pulled wagon
to the waterfront in Šilo and then unloaded onto ‘place’, i.e. sand unloading places,
wherefrom the sand was loaded onto ships. Yes, one must sail, but one must also live. And a
sailor’s bread is a bread with seven crusts (‘a pomorski je kruh, kruh sa sedam kora’).
Znamenitosti Šilo / Sights in Šilo
Znamenitosti uvala Šilo / Sights in Šilo
A
PLACE ZA MEL
PLACA ZA MEL – A SAND UNLOADING PLACE
21
15
OSTACI BIZANTSKE UTVRDE
REMNANTS OF A BYZANTINE FORT
PRVA TRAJEKTNA LINIJA NA NAŠOJ OBALI
FIRST FERRY LINE ON OUR COAST
N 45 08.658
E 14 40.477
O
Ostaci rimske vile – natpis je koji će vas uz pomoć sličnih oznaka odvesti do
ostataka bizantske utvrde, koja datira iz 6. stoljeća. No, čim se prepustite
pogledu na Crikvenicu, Selce i okolni krajolik, bit će vam jasnije da je ova, sada derutna
„vila“, imala i dodatnu funkciju – služila je kao osmatračnica. Odavde bi domaćini
vrebali na lopove i napadače, koji kroz minula stoljeća nisu zaobišli ni ovaj kraj.
22
The Remnants of a Roman Villa is a signboard inscription which will lead you, with the
help of other similar signs, to the remnants of a Byzantine fort dating from the 6th century.
However, as soon as you start enjoying the view of Crikvenica, Selce and the surrounding
landscapes, it will become clear to you that this, now ruinous, villa had an additional
function. It also served as a watch post. From here, the locals would watch out for the thieves
and attackers who did not spare this area during the past centuries either.
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
Š
Šilo nije samo perjanica turizma na dobrinjskom području; Šilo je i perjanica, bolje rečeno,
kolijevka parobrodarstva otoka Krka. Početkom 20. stoljeća u Šilu je osnovano Krčko
parobrodarsko društvo, čiji je parobrod „Dinko Vitezić“ 1905. godine označio početke linije Šilo –
Crikvenica. Prvo pristanište u Šilu bilo je na suprotnoj strani od pristaništa koje je i danas vidljivo i
obilježeni. „Dinko Vitezić“, potom njegov nasljednik „Frankopan“ pristajali su nasuprot današnjeg
buffeta „Macao“. Parobrodi su uskoro zamijenjeni trajektima a staro pristanište novim, iz kojeg
je 12. travnja 1959. isplovio trajekt „Bodulka“, označivši prvu trajektnu liniju na našoj obali, liniju
Šilo – Crikvenica.Devedesetih godina prošlog stoljeća, trajektna linija „Šilo –Crikvenica“ uplovljava u neka druga mora, mora sjećanja baš kao i parobrodi i trajekti koji su spajali otok i kopno.
Tek morem uspomena danas plove „Dinko Vitezić“, „Frankopan“ , „Petar Svačić“, „Bar“,“Bodulka“...
Š
Šilo is not only the tourist gem of the Dobrinj Region; Šilo is also the gem or, better said,
the cradle of the steamboat building industry of the island of Krk. The Krk Steamboat
Association was established at the beginning of the 20th century. Its steamboat called Dinko
Vitezić marked the beginnings of the Šilo - Crikvenica line in 1905. The first docking area in Šilo
was on the opposite side of the docking area which is still visible and marked today. The Dinko
Vitezić, and later his successor the Frankopan, used to dock in an area opposite the present-day
Macao buffet. The steamboats were, however, soon replaced by ferries, and the old docking area
with the new one. On 12 April 1959, a ferry called Bodulka sailed out from the new docking area,
marking the beginnings of the first ferry line on our coast, the Šilo - Crikvenica ferry line. In the
1990s, the Šilo - Crikvenica ferry line sailed into some other seas, the seas of memories, just like
the steamboats and ferries that connected the island and the land. These days, the Dinko Vitezić,
the Frankopan, the Petar Svačić, the Bar and the Bodulka are sailing only the sea of memories.
Znamenitosti Šilo / Sights in Šilo
Znamenitosti uvala Šilo / Sights in Šilo
T
N 45 08.864
E 14 39.820
23
ZNAMENITOSTI
UNUTRAŠNJOSTI
Vremenski stroj koji bi vratio vrijeme ili
vrijeme ne postoji. Oživljavanje prošlosti
izvedivo je i to je ono što u unutrašnjost
Dobrinjskoga privlači turiste i izletnike
željne „revije prošlosti“.
IZDVOJENO
Gromače ili suhozidi jedna su od
specifičnosti otoka Krka. Najveći
otočni primjer tog oblika pučke
arhitekture je tzv. „Vela gromača“.
THE SIGHTS
OF THE INLAND
A time machine that takes one back in time
or there is no such thing as time? It is possible to revive the past and that is what
attracts tourists and excursionists craving
a ‘history show’ to the inland of the Dobrinj
Region.
16
DOLOVA
DOLOVA
N 45 06.758
E 14 36.612
HIGHLIGHTS
Gromače or drywalls are one of the
distinct features of the island of Krk.
The largest example of this type of
folk architecture on the island is the
so-called ‘Vela gromača’.
VIŠE NA STR. 26
MORE AT PAGE 26
N
Napušteno selo Dolova… ili začarana bodulska šuma, kako je zaključio jedan izletnik,
skrenuvši s glavne ceste između Krasa i Dobrinja na šumsku stazu, koja ga je odvela do
izumrlog sela Dolova. U tom selu, kaže usmena predaja, živjele su neke od najljepših
djevojaka Dobrinjskoga. Možda je tajna njihove ljepote bila u slapovima s Vretenice ili
Skakavice - dvaju izvora vode nedaleko Dolova? Ili je zaista riječ o začaranoj šumi, baš kao
onoj iz bajke, u kojoj se krije usnula ljepotica?! Vrata napuštenih kuća širom su otvorena, a
ne nađete li usnulu ljepoticu, zasigurno ćete naći tajnu ljepote – ljepote življenja u iskonskom
okružju prirode, nestalu u drugoj polovici 20. stoljeća, s posljednjim stanovnicima Dolova….
Znamenitosti unutrašnjosti / Sights of the hinterland
24
The abandoned village of Dolova or the enchanted island forest, as concluded by
an excursionist who turned from the main road between Kras and Dobrinj onto a
forest path that led him to the died-out village of Dolova. In that village, the oral
legend says, lived some of the most beautiful girls of the Dobrinj Region. Maybe the secret
to their beauty lay in the waterfalls of Vretenica or Skakavica, the two water springs found
not far from Dolova?! Or maybe it really is an enchanted forest, just like the one
from the fairytales, hiding a sleeping beauty?! The doors to the abandoned
houses are wide open and if you find a sleeping beauty inside, you will definitely find the
secret to beauty, the beauty of living in an authentic natural environment, which
disappeared in the second half of the 20th century with the last inhabitants of
Dolova.
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
Znamenitosti unutrašnjosti / Sights of the hinterland
T
25
17
VELA GROMAČA I OSTACI CRKVE SV. JURJA
VELA GROMAČA AND THE REMNANTS OF THE CHAPEL OF SAINT GEORGE
N 45 06.709
E 14 36.347
N 45 06.554
E 14 36.509
P
G
T
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
Znamenitosti unutrašnjosti / Sights of the hinterland
Park glagoljice u Gabonjinu, otvoren 2010. godine, nastavak je aktivne brige mještana da
se glagoljica i vrijeme iz kojeg ona datira, istovremeno sačuvaju, ali i propagiraju. Šesnaest
kamenih „znamena“ koji čine Park glagoljice podsjećaju na važne trenutke iz lokalne i
nacionalne povijesti, ali i na pojedince koji su ostavili trag u glagoljaškoj tradiciji.
Glavninu posla - od ideje do realizacije - odradio je, pogađate, Svetko Ušalj.
The Park of the Glagolitic Alphabet (Park Glagoljice) in Gabonjin, opened in 2010,
is part of the further efforts made by the citizens to ensure that the Glagolitic
alphabet and the time from which it dates are preserved and promoted at the same time.
The sixteen stone tablets making up the Park of the Glagolitic Alphabet are the reminders of
the important moments from the local and national history as well as of the individuals
that left their traces in the Glagolitic tradition. The main part of the job, from the concept
to the execution, was carried out by, you guess, Svetko Ušalj.
Znamenitosti unutrašnjosti / Sights of the hinterland
Gromače or drywalls are one of the distinct features of the island of Krk. The
largest example of this type of folk architecture on the island is the so-called ‘Vela
gromača’. It is located close to Kras, on the highest summit of Dobrinj Region, known as
Kuševica (311 asl). The locals call this part of the Dobrinj Region Sveti Juraj (Saint George).
The remnants of a Romanic chapel dedicated to the victorious saint in the fight
against a dragon, Saint George, is also found in the vicinity of Vela gromača.
It dates from 1230.
PARK GLAGOLJICE
PARK OF THE GLAGOLITIC ALPHABET
N 45 06.849
E 14 33.710
G
Gromače ili suhozidi jedna su od specifičnosti otoka Krka. Najveći otočni
primjer tog oblika pučke arhitekture je tzv. „Vela gromača“. Nalazi se nedaleko od
Krasa, na najvišem vrhu Općine Dobrinj, vrhu zvanom Kuševica (311 metara nadmorske
visine). Kod lokalnog se stanovništva za ovaj dio Dobrinjskog udomaćio naziv „Sveti Juraj“
pa se u blizini Vele gromače nalaze i ostaci romaničke crkvice iz 1230. godine, posvećene
svecu pobjedniku u borbi sa zmajem - svetome Jurju.
26
18
27
19
PUT GLAGOLJAŠA
THE TRAIL OF THE GLAGOLITIC WRITERS
20
N 45 06.497
E 14 33.784
S
T
U
Znamenitosti unutrašnjosti / Sights of the hinterland
The Glagolitic alphabet is one of the trademarks of the Dobrinj Region. This ancient
alphabet of our ancestors has been saved from oblivion thanks to the enthusiasts
bringing a touch of the past into the modern time. Svetko Ušalj from Gabonjin is
definitely one of the lovers of the Glagolitic world. He has transliterated
numerous documents written in the Glagolitic alphabet and copied the Glagolitic
letters from the pergamena parchment onto the stone. It was his idea to open the
trail of the glagolitic writers in Gabonjin in 2001 which encompasses the complete
Glagolitic alphabet, i.e. 37 Glagolitic letters. They were carved in stone by Mr. Svetko and
installed at their permanently designated places through the concerted efforts of the citizens.
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
Sve do „let od Hristova rojstva 1100“ pastirsko naselje, kilometar udaljeno od
Dobrinja, bilo je bezimeno. Zahvaljujujući „slavnome Dragoslavu“ (ma tko god on
bio), bezimeno naselje dobiva crkvicu, prema njezinom patronu dobiva i ime, a kapitul (župa) Dobrinj biva nadarena materijalnim dobrima. Sve je to kurzivnom
glagoljicom zapisano u „Listini slavnog Dragoslava“, jednom od najstarijih i
najvažnijih dokumenata starohrvatske diplomatike. Nedaleko crkvice svetog Vida
i 14-metarskog zvonika, nalaze se ostaci kamenih pastirskih kućica, derutni drveni vidikovac i nedavno obnovljen križ, koji više od dva stoljeća svjedoči ispunjenom
zavjetu anonimnog vojnika.
Until
‘the
year
1100
after
the
birth
of
Christ’
(‘let
od
Hristova
rojstva 1100’), the pastoral village located one kilometre from Dobrinj was
nameless. Thanks to the ‘famous Dobroslav’ (whoever he might be), this nameless
village got a church and was named after its patron, while the Dobrinj Parish
(‘kapitul’) got the material goods. All this is written in italic letters in Listina slavnog
Dobroslava, one of the oldest and most important old-Croatian diplomatic
documents. Not far from the Chapel of Saint Vitus (Crkvica Svetog Vida) and a
14 metre high bell-tower, there are remnants of old stone pastoral dwellings, a
ruinous belvedere and a recently renovated cross which has been bearing witness to a solemn
promise kept by an anonymous soldier for more than two centuries now.
Znamenitosti unutrašnjosti / Sights of the hinterland
28
N 45 07.551
E 14 36.808
G
Glagoljica je jedan od zaštitnih znakova Dobrinjskoga. To drevno pismo naših
predaka zaboravu je otrgnuto zahvaljujući entuzijastima, koji u suvremeno doba
unose dašak prošlosti. Jedan od zaljubljenika u glagoljski svijet je i Svetko Ušalj
iz Gabonjina; transliterirao je brojne glagoljske dokumente, a potom je glagoljska slova s pergamene prenio na kamen. Na njegovu zamisao, u Gabonjinu je 2001.
godine nastao Put glagoljaša koji obuhvaća kompletnu glagoljsku azbuku, odnosno 37
glagoljskih slova. Iz kamena ih je isklesao gospodin Svetko, a na njihovo trajno mjesto
zajedničkim su ih snagama postavili složni mještani.
CRKVA SV. VIDA
CHURCH OF SAINT VITUS
29
21
OSTACI CRKVE SVIH SVETIH
REMNANTS OF THE CHURCH OF ALL SAINTS
22
N 45 09.198
E 14 34.764
V
T
A
Znamenitosti unutrašnjosti / Sights of the hinterland
The Frankopan family legacy encompasses the village of Sužan as well. It is
located close to the Soline Cove (Uvala Soline) which you can see from the
viewing post located next to the Church of All Saints (Crkva Svih svetih)
dating from 1514. The ruins of the church have been preserved in the
memory of several centuries of service next to the village cemetery, and its role was
assumed in 1927 by the Church of the Our Lady of Health (Crkva Majke Božje od
Zdravlja) built in the centre of Sužan. The remnants of the oldest chapel in the
region, the Chapel of Saint John (Crkvica Svetog Ivana) dating from the 15th
century (that Sužan was named after) are found in a small forest not far from Sužan.
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
Velika
žena
svete
uspomene,
Flavia
Julija
Helena,
u
nas
je
poznatija kao sveta Jelena Križarica. Predaja kaže da je sudjelovala u
pronalasku križa na kojem je Isus raspet i umro. Od crkvice posvećene
svetoj Jeleni (vjerojatno iz 16. stoljeća) na Dobrinjskom je ostala također samo
predaja, kao i toponim „Pod svetu Jelenu“, nedaleko Uvale Soline.
A great woman of holy memory, Flavia Julija Helena, is better known here
as Saint Jelena Križarica. The legend says that she participated in the search
of the cross on which Jesus was crucified and died. Nothing has been
preserved of the chapel dedicated to Saint Helen (dating probably from the 16th
century) that used to stand in the Dobrinj Region but the legend and a toponym ‘Pod svetu
Jelenu’ located close to the Soline Cove (Uvala Soline).
Znamenitosti unutrašnjosti / Sights of the hinterland
30
N 45 08.374
E 14 35.362
F
Frankopanska je nadarbina i selo Sužan, nedaleko uvale Soline, koju
možete vidjeti s vidikovca uz crkvu Svih svetih iz 1514. godine. Kao
spomen
na
višestoljetna
bogoslužja
od
crkvice
uz
seosko
groblje
ostale su ruševine, a njezinu je ulogu 1927. preuzela crkva Majke Božje od
Zdravlja u središtu Sužana. Ostatke najstarije ovdašnje crkvice svetog Ivana
iz 15. stoljeća (po kojoj je Sužan dobio ime), krije šumarak nedaleko Sužana.
OSTACI CRKVE SV. HELENE
REMNANTS OF THE CHURCH OF SAINT HELEN
31
ZNAMENITOSTI U DOBRINJU
Vjekovno,
administrativno,
političko
i
crkveno
središte
Dobrinjskoga,
jedno od ishodišta hrvatske pismenosti
i kulture, gradić „vosrid otoka, u koji se
ne more neg’priko potoka“; gradić kojeg domaće stanovništvo oduvijek zove
imenom „Grad“...
IZDVOJENO
Današnjica
još
uvijek
nema
odgovor na pitanje kako se
drvena
nadstrešnica
ispred
dobrinjske crkve svetog Stjepana
ovdje našla u tom obliku i pod tim
neobičnim imenom - cergan.
THE SIGHTS OF DOBRINJ
A centuries-old administrative, political
and religious centre of the Dobrinj
Region, one of the cradles of
Croatian literacy and culture, a town in
the centre of an island which cannot be
approached unless crossing a stream, a
town called ‘Grad’ by the locals since the
ancient times.
23
TRADICIONALNE MJERE
TRADITIONAL MEASURES
N 45 07.838
E 14 36.197
HIGHLIGHTS
Modern times still do not have an answer to the question: how it happened
that the wooden porch in front of the
Dobrinj Church of Saint Stephen was
built there in that particular shape
and bearing that unusual name,
cergan.
VIŠE NA STR. 36
MORE AT PAGE 36
S
“S Place do „Jardina“ put vodi kamenim stubama. Uz njih ćete zasigurno
uočiti dva „otvora“ i kamenu figuru koja će vas asocirati na konja. U pravu
ste – riječ je o konjskoj glavi, koja zapravo predstavlja konzolu, nosač/potporanj,
dijelove zgrada. Ne znamo čiji je balkon ili „balaturu“ krasila ova
konjska glava, no, zahvaljujući usmenoj predaji, sa sigurnošću znamo da je
tijekom
Venecijanske
uprave
služila
kao
mjera
za
dužinu
(„lakat“,
odnosno 63,5 cm). Dva „otvora“ , kako smo ih nazvali, zapravo su tradicijske mjere za
žito i ulje, čime se prije, tijekom i nakon vlasti Mlečana, plaćalo porez.
Znamenitosti Dobrinja / Sights of Dobrinj
S
32
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
Znamenitosti Dobrinja / Sights of Dobrinj
Stone steps lead from Placa to Jardin. Next to the steps, you will surely
notice two ‘openings’ and a stone figure that will remind you of a horse.
And you are right. It is a horse’s head that is in fact a bearing support for
the parts of the building. We do not know whose balcony or ‘balatura’ was
decorated by this horse’s head, but the oral legend says that, during the Venetian
administration, it used to serve as a measure of length (‘lakat’ or 63.5 cm).
The two ‘openings’, as we have previously called them, are in fact traditional
measures of wheat and oil, which were used to pay taxes during and after the Venetian
administration.
33
24
MASKERON
MASKERON
25
N 45 07.830
E 14 36.225
K
Kameno jato vrabaca („pinkuzića“) koje vas vodi do Jardina novijeg je
datuma, za razliku od Maskerona (kamene muške glave), koji se nalazi na
suprotnoj strani Place. Nastao je 1738. godine iz ruku i dlijeta anonimnog umjetnika.
Do danas nitko nije ni približno ušao u trag ni umjetniku niti njegovoj inspiraciji…
T
The stone flock of sparrows (locally known as ‘pinkuzići’), which will take you to Jardin, is of
a more recent date compared to Maskeron (a man’s head made of stone) found on the
opposite side of Placa. It was created in 1738 by the hands and chisel of an anonymous
artist. Until today, no one has come even close to finding out who the artist was or what
inspired him to create this work.
N 45 07.845
E 14 36.186
P
Prema legendi, prilikom gradnje dobrinjskog zvonika, zli jezici buduću su građevinu
urekli, predodredivši joj neprekidno urušavanje. Dva udara groma, sravnjivanje
sa zemljom u 2. svjetskom ratu te jedna uskočka najezda, opravdali su istinitost
predaje o zloj kobi zvonika. Osim tajanstvenosti, gotovo mističnosti, za dobrinjski je
zvonik specifično da se ne nalazi uz župnu crkvu,, niti se prostire na jednom „terenu“. Jednim
svojim dijelom stoji na ulazu na Zemjinu, odnosno vidikovac, a drugim u dobrinjskom
parku, oduvijek znanom kao „Jardin“. Nakon panoramskog pogleda sa Zemjine, prošetajte
„Jardinom“ u kojem su početkom 20. stoljeća šetali veliki hrvatski književnik Vladimir
Nazor i divna, zlosretna Vrbenčanka, Marija Parčić…
T
Znamenitosti Dobrinja / Sights of Dobrinj
The legend says that when the Dobrinj tower was built, evil tongues put a curse on
the future building, saying that it was predestined to be under constant threat of
caving in. It was struck by lightning twice, entirely demolished in the Second World War
and attacked by the Uskoks once. This proves that the curse put on the bell-tower was
active. In addition to being mysterious, almost mystical, the bell-tower of Dobrinj is
specific in that it is not located next to the parish church and in that ‘it does not stretch
on one terrain only’ (‘niti se prostire na jednom terenu’). One part of it stands at the
entrance to Zemjina, a viewing spot, and the other in the park of Dobrinj forever known as
Jardin. After enjoying a panoramic view from Zemjina, take a walk along Jardin where
Vladimir Nazor, a great Croatian literary writer, and the wonderful, unfortunate woman
of Vrbnik, Marija Parčić, used to stroll at the beginning of the 20th century.
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
Znamenitosti Dobrinja / Sights of Dobrinj
34
ZVONIK
BELL-TOWER
35
26
CRKVA SV. STJEPANA I CERGAN
CHURCH OF ST STEPHEN AND ‘CERGAN’
27
N 45 07.866
E 14 36.199
N
M
H
Znamenitosti Dobrinja / Sights of Dobrinj
Modern times still do not have an answer to the question: how it
happened that the wooden porch in front of the Dobrinj Church of Saint Stephen
(Crkva Svetog Stjepana) was built there in that particular shape and bearing that
unusual name, cergan. A word possibly from the Turkish or some other language
remains an enigma associated to this, yet another in the series of Dobrinj
attractions. The three-nave (originally one-nave) Dobrinj Parish Church mentioned
already in 1100 is characterised by a combination of the Baroque and Late Gothic styles. Its
altar painting called the Coronation of Mary (Krunjenje Majke Božje) was proclaimed a cultural
monument.
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
Njegovo je ime Ivo Sučić. Uspio je spojiti svoje dvije velike ljubavi –
novinarstvo i poučavanje. Snalažljivošću je pridobio Charlesa Lindberga za intervju, a
znanjem je pokrenuo Školu stranih jezika u Zagrebu. Treća velika ljubav bila mu je
Dobrinj, kojemu je ostavio svoju rodnu kuću. Dobrinjci su, prikupivši raznorazne
predmete diljem otoka Krka, Sučićevu kuću pretvorili u jednu od najvećih etno zbirki u
Hrvatskoj - u zbirku koja vraća prošlost, oplemenjuje sadašnjost i upozorava za budućnost.
His name is Ivo Sučić. He managed to combine his two great loves, i.e.
journalism and teaching. He was so dexterous that he even managed to get an
interview with Charles Lindberg, while his knowledge helped him start a Language School in
Zagreb. His third great love was Dobrinj, a town to which he bequeathed his birth
house. By collecting various objects from across the island of Krk, the people of
Dobrinj turned Sučić’s house into one of the largest ethnographic collections in
Croatia, into a collection that takes one back into the past, enriches the present and
warns of the future.
Znamenitosti Dobrinja / Sights of Dobrinj
36
N 45 07.815
E 14 36.231
D
Današnjica još uvijek nema odgovor na pitanje kako se drvena nadstrešnica
ispred dobrinjske crkve svetog Stjepana ovdje našla u tom obliku i pod tim, neobičnim
imenom - cergan. Turcizam ili iz nekog drugog jezika, ostaje enigma za ovu, još jednu u nizu
atrakcija Dobrinjskoga. Kombinacija baroka i kasne gotike krase trobrodnu (izvorno
jednobrodnu) dobrinjsku župnu crkvu, koja se spominje još 1100., a čija je oltarna pala
(„Krunjenje Majke Božje”) proglašena spomenikom kulture.
ETNOGRAFSKI MUZEJ
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
37
28
ETNOGRAFSKA ZBIRKA
ETHNOGRAPHIC COLLECTION
29
N 45 07.859
E 14 36.206
K
Kroz minula stoljeća u Dobrinju je postojalo čak sedam crkvi ili kapelica. Na
mjestu jedne od njih, crkve svetog Lovre, danas se nalazi etnografska zbirka
u vlasništvu obitelji Barbalić. S koljena na koljeno, s oca na sina, s djeda na
unuka prenose se opipljivi dokazi nekadašnjeg života Dobrinja i Dobrinjskoga, ali i priče o
pojedincima koji su zadužili dobrinjski kraj. Vrijedi pogledati! I upamtiti!
38
As many as seven churches or chapels existed in the Dobrinj Region in the past
centuries. The Ethnographic Collection owned by the Barbalić family is found
today at the site of one of them, namely the Church of Saint Laurel (Crkva
Svetog Lovre). The tangible evidence of the former life of Dobrinj and the Dobrinj Region
together with the stories about the individuals who gave their contributions to the
Dobrinj Region have been passed on from one generation to another, from the father
onto the son, from the grandfather onto the grandchild. Worth seeing and remembering!
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
N 45 07.828
E 14 36.201
T
Tko/što povezuje Dobrinj i London? Odgovor: glasoviti umjetnik Paolo Veneziano. Njegov
antependij (predoltarje)“Krunjenje Djevice Marije“ iz 14. stoljeća, neprocjenjivo djelo
proglašeno spomenikom kulture, najznačajniji je eksponat sakralne zbirke, koja se
nalazi u sklopu župnog stana. Identičan antependij istog umjetnika nalazi se u
londonskom muzeju „Victoria and Albert“. Osim antependija (koji je pukom slučajnošću
pronađen kao otirač u jednoj obiteljskoj kući), dobrinjska sakralna zbirka čuva stare
glagoljske zapise, relikvijar svete Uršule, te kao kuriozitet - procesijska raspela na kojima se s
jedne strane nalazi razapeti Isus, a s druge njegova majka Marija!
W
Who/what connects Dobrinj and London? The answer is: Paolo Veneziano, a
famous artist. His antependium called the Coronation of Mary (Krunjenje Djevice Marije)
dating from the 14th century is a priceless work of art proclaimed a cultural monument
and the most significant exhibit of the religious collection housed within the Parish Building. An identical antependium designed by the same artist is found in London’s Victoria and
Albert Museum. In addition to the antependium (which was found by coincidence as a
doormat in a family home), the Dobrinj Religious Collection also preserves old scripts
written in the Glagolitic alphabet, the reliquary of Saint Ursula (Sveta Uršula) and procession
crucifixion crosses presenting crucified Jesus on one side and his mother Mary on the other as
collection curiosities!
Znamenitosti Dobrinja / Sights of Dobrinj
Znamenitosti Dobrinja / Sights of Dobrinj
A
SAKRALNI MUZEJ
RELIGIOUS MUSEUM
39
30
GALERIJA “INFELD”
INFELD GALLERY
31
N 45 07.818
E 14 36.217
J
40
A
At the beginning of the 20th century, one of the main Dobrinj attractions was the house of
sailor Franjo Vušković. From the outside, it attracted attention with the style of construction
and the colourfulness of the façade, while from the inside one could hear the sounds which
intensified the general impression. Those were the mixed sounds of the gramophone
music and the song of a parrot that Franjo Vušković brought from one of his journeys.
Ninety years later, one of the greatest world art collectors restored the house’s original exterior
and expanded its interior to more than 400 sq m. Thanks to now deceased Peter Infeld, the
so-called ‘Lady of Dobrinj’ (‘dobrinjska dama’) attracts with its beauty once again, alluring an
increasing number of visitors.
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
N 45 07.719
E 14 36.238
V
Veća, manja, zaklonjena šipražjem ili još uvijek pristupačna, gumna, suhozidne građevine,
dokazi su da nije uzalud rečeno kako su naši preci svaki komadić kruha plaćali bar jednim
žuljem na rukama. Na gumnima se vršilo žito, a prije početka „rada“, volovima se na njušku
stavljalo brnjice, tj. „jarom“ – svako je zrno vrijedilo, na svako se zrno pazilo. Prisjetite se
tih muka kad naiđete na gumno…
L
Large, small, covered in bushes or still accessible threshing floors, drywall structures
locally known as gumna, are proof enough that it was not said in vain that our
ancestors paid each piece of bread with at least one blister on their hands.
Gumna were used to thresh grain. Before starting to thresh, the oxen (‘jarom’) were
muzzled. Each grain was precious, each one counted. Think of that hard work when you
come across a gumno.
Znamenitosti Dobrinja / Sights of Dobrinj
Znamenitosti Dobrinja / Sights of Dobrinj
Jedna od glavnih dobrinjskih atrakcija početkom 20. stoljeća bila je kuća
moreplovca
Franje
Vuškovića.
Izvana
je
privlačila
pažnju
stilom
gradnje i šarenilom fasade, a iznutra su pak dopirali zvuci koji su opći dojam samo
pojačavali; bili su to pomiješani zvuci glazbe s gramofona i pjesme papagaja,
kojeg je Franjo Vušković donio s jednog putovanja. Devedeset godina kasnije, jedan
od najvećih svjetskih kolekcionara umjetnina vratio je kući izvorni eksterijer, a njezin
interijer proširio na više od 400 m2. Zahvaljujući, sada već pokojnom, Peteru
Infeldu „ dobrinjska dama“ iznova plijeni ljepotom te privlači sve veći broj posjetitelja.
GUMNA
GUMNA
41
VIDIKOVAC DOBRINJ
VIEWPOINT IN DOBRINJ
VIDIKOVAC GABONJIN
VIEWPOINT IN GABONJIN
VIDIKOVAC SUŽAN
VIEWPOINT IN SUŽAN
N 45 06.424
E 14 33.818
N 45 07.854
E 14 36.171
P
Pješačke i biciklističke staze Dobrinjskoga (njih preko pedeset kilometara)
nedavno su upotpunjene zanimljivim i korisnim detaljima. U pogledu na otočni
krajobraz, ali i šire, odsad mogu uživati pješaci, biciklisti, domaći i gosti. Zahvaljujući
potpori Hrvatske turističke zajednice, tri su vidikovca na Dobrinjskom uređena i
upotpunjena teleskopima.
Jedan od njih nalazi se u samom mjestu Dobrinj, na „Zemjini“, nasuprot zvonika. Pogled sa
“Zemjine” seže do Melina, Čižića, Sužana, ali i šire - od Jadranova, Rijeke, Opatije, sve do
obronaka Učke.
42
Istim je detaljima (betonskim klupicama, držačima za bicikle i sl.) upotpunjen i treći
vidikovac na Dobrinjskom – vidikovac na brdu Sveti Petar u Gabonjinu. Do njega ćete doći
putevima prošlosti; doslovce rečeno, jer do 252 metra visine koji vas dijele do ovog vidikovca,
doći ćete Putem glagoljice!
Više informacija/ More informations at: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
T
The hiking and bicycle routes of the Dobrinj Region (over 50 kilometers of them)
have recently been completed to include certain interesting and useful amenities.
Hikers, bicyclists, local people and visitors can now enjoy the view of the island
landscape, and wider. Thanks to the support received from the Croatian National
Tourist Board, the Dobrinj Region now has three viewing spots that are maintained and
equipped with telescopes.
One of them is in the centre of Dobrinj, i.e. the Zemjina viewing spot overlooking
the bell-tower. The view from Zemjina stretches all the way to Meline, Čižići, Sužan
and even wider, from Jadranovo, Rijeka and Opatija all the way to the slopes
of the Učka Mountain.
The viewing location in Sužan, not far from the remnants of the Church of All Saints (Crkva Svih
svetih) offers a palm-of-the hand view (‘pogled na dlanu’) of Meline and Klimno and, thanks
to the accompanying amenities, it also serves as a resting place for bicyclists and hikers.
The third viewing spot in the Dobrinj Region, the one on the Hill of Saint Peter (Sveti
Petar) in Gabonjin, is equipped with the same amenities (concrete benches, bicycle racks,
and similar). You will reach it following, literally speaking, the traces of the past, since in
order to climb to the height of 252 m asl, where this viewing spot is located, you must pass
the Trail of the Glagolitic Alphabet!
Vidikovci / Viewpoints
Vidikovci / Viewpoints
Vidikovac na Sužanu, nedaleko ostataka crkvice Svih svetih, pruža
„pogled na
dlanu“ na Meline i Klimno, a zahvaljujući popratnim sadržajima, služi kao odmorište
za bicikliste i pješake.
N 45 09.236
E 14 34.778
43
TZO Dobrinj, 51515 Šilo, Stara cesta bb, HR
Tel./Fax: +385 51 852 107, E-mail: [email protected], Web: www.tzo-dobrinj.hr
Nakladnik: TZO Dobrinj, 2012. , tekst i lektura: Gordana Gržetić, prof., fotografije & design: U.O. Domino, Klimno

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