BUSHNELL’S
WATER REDUCTION CONCEPTS AND EFFORTS THAT WORK
BY DAVE BUSHNELL (BASED ON OVER 30 YEARS OF PRODUCING, PLANTING, AND CARING FOR
THOUSANDS OF VARIETIES AND MILLIONS OF PLANTS & TREES)
I.
IRRIGATION
A. REDUCE THE AMOUNT OF WATERING PRECIPITATION RATE
(*AMOUNT OF WATER *PER UNIT OF AREA *PER UNIT OF TIME)
PUTTING WATER ON THE LANDSCAPE AT A FASTER RATE THAN THE SOIL CAN
ACCEPT OR ABSORB THE WATER IS A TOP WATER WASTING MISTAKE.
SOLUTION
1. WATER AT SHORT INTERVALS (TO THE POINT OF JUST BEFORE THE FIRST SIGNS OF ANY
RUN-OFF FROM THE ZONE BEING WATERED)
2. CHANGE YOUR IRRIGATION TYPE OF NOZZLES OR METHOD TO A LOW PRECIPITATION RATE
TYPE. LOW VOLUME OVERHEAD ROTORS CAN PRODUCE ONE OF THE LOWEST
PRECIPITATION RATES AND MOST REASONABLE “COST TO ACHIEVE RESULTS” RATIOS. INLINE DRIP EMITTER SYSTEMS (THOUGH MORE COMPLICATED TO INSTALL PROPERLY AND
TYPICALLY AT A MUCH HIGHER “COST TO ACHIEVE RESULTS” RATIO) ARE A GREAT LONG
TERM SOLUTION WITHOUT THE FRUSTRATIONS OF GOPHERS, SQUIRRELS, OR GARDENERS
CUTTING AND BREAKING DRIP TUBING, OR THE ISSUE OF WATERING AT THE PLANT BASE VS
TEACHING THE PLANT TO EXTEND ITS ROOTS OUT FOR WATER THAT COMES WITH
TRADITIONAL SPOT DRIP METHODS.
B. LET THE SOIL DRY OUT BETWEEN WATERINGS TO THE POINT THAT YOU SEE
THE START OF SOME NEW GROWTH NODDING OR BEGINNING TO WILT BEFORE
YOU IRRIGATE AGAIN. BY DOING THIS YOU WILL:
1. DISCOVER WHICH OF YOUR PLANTS NEED OR WANT MORE WATER AND YOU MAY
CONSIDER REMOVING, TRANSPLANTING TO A COOLER AREA/ZONE IN YOUR YARD, OR
REPLACING THEM WITH PLANTS THAT NEED LESS WATER (MORE SIMILAR TO THE OTHER
EXISTING PLANTS IN THAT ZONE/AREA).
2. STRENGTHEN YOUR PLANTS AND TREES OVERALL ABILITY TO HANDLE STRESS AND NEED
LESS WATER.
3. ALLOW YOUR SOIL TO GET RID OF THE CO2 PUT OFF BY ROOTS AND BRING IN OXYGEN THAT
CREATES THE HEALTHIEST ROOT ENVIRONMENT AND COMMUNITY OF BENEFICIAL
ORGANISMS. YOU WILL ALSO COME TO REALIZE THAT INFREQUENT DEEP WATERING
CONSUMES LESS WATER OVERALL AND RESULTS IN HEALTHIER MORE PEST AND DISEASE
RESISTANT PLANTS AND TREES AS WELL.
Page 1 of 4
BUSHNELL’S
WATER REDUCTION CONCEPTS AND EFFORTS THAT WORK
BY DAVE BUSHNELL (BASED ON OVER 30 YEARS OF PRODUCING, PLANTING, AND CARING FOR
THOUSANDS OF VARIETIES AND MILLIONS OF PLANTS & TREES)
C.
II.
BE SURE TO UPGRADE YOUR IRRIGATION CONTROLLER TO A “SMART” CONTROLLER THAT
CAN USE ACTUAL WEATHER AND CLIMATE TO YOUR ADVANTAGE AS WELL AS PERFORM
THE SCHEDULE FUNCTIONS YOU NEED TO REDUCE WATER USE AND INCREASE YOUR
PLANTS HEALTH, IF YOU HAVE NOT DONE SO ALREADY. YOU CAN’T ACTUALLY REDUCE YOUR
WATER USE WITHOUT ADJUSTING YOUR IRRIGATION AMOUNTS AND FREQUENCY. THIS
SOUNDS OBVIOUS BUT MANY HOMEOWNERS AND LANDSCAPE SERVICE PROVIDERS DON’T
UNDERSTAND HOW TO DO THIS PROPERLY.
SOIL AND ROOT ZONE:
A. YOU CAN INCREASE YOUR SOILS ABILITY TO ABSORB AND HOLD WATER SIGNIFIGNTLY BY
“TRUE DEEP ROOT” FEEDING YOUR ENTIRE PLANT BEDS. BY “TRUE DEEP ROOT” FEEDING, I AM
REFERRING TO A UNIQUE METHOD OF BORING DOWN 12” PLUS AND BLOWING OUT A WELL
DESIGNED MIX OF EFFECTIVE PRODUCTS DOWNWARD TO 18” PLUS BELOW THE SOIL SURFACE.
95% OF THE COMPANIES WHO OFFER DEEP ROOT FEED USE A 6” MAXIMUM BORE DEPTH AND
BLOW OUT A LESS EFFECTIVE MIX SIDEWAYS AND UPWARDS, NEAR OR ONTO THE SOIL
SURFACE.
GRO-GREEN, INC. MAKES THEIR OWN UNIQUE NOZZLE TIP THAT DIRECTS THE HIGH PRESSURE
SPECIAL LIQUID BLEND AT A DOWNWARD ANGLE WITH A STOP PLATE AT 12”. GRO-GREEN’S
PROPRIETARY BLEND OF SOIL WETTING AGENTS, HUMOUS, SYSTEMIC INSECT CONTROL, AND
HIGH QUALITY SLOW RELEASE NUTRIENT PACKAGE IS DESIGNED TO LAST UP TO ONE YEAR. THE
ADDITIONAL BENEFIT OF BLOWING OUT AIR POCKETS ON A 3’-5’ MATRIX IN YOUR BEDS IS A
HUGE PROMOTER OF FAST/DEEPER WATER UPTAKE AND INCREASED OXYGEN TO THE ROOT
ZONE ALONG WITH THE HIGH QUALITY WETTING AGENT’S ABILITY TO GET THE SOIL TO TAKE
ON WATER THAT IT PREVIOUSLY REFUSED TO ABSORB.
B. “BUILD IT AND THEY WILL COME”GROW NATIVE MYCORRHIZAE IN YOUR SOIL AROUND YOUR
PLANT ROOTS. MYCORRHIZAE ARE A BENEFICIAL FUNGUS THAT WRAP AROUND AND CONNECT
WITH PLANT ROOTS PLUS GROW OUT INTO THE SOIL AND BRING BACK WATER AND NUTRIENTS
FOR THE PLANT TO USE. PLANTS AND TREES WITH A HEALTHY POPULATION OF MYCORRHIZAE
AROUND THEIR ROOTS CAN EASILY NEED AND USE UP TO 30% LESS WATER THAN EQUIVALENT
PLANTS WITHOUT MYCORRHIZAE.
MYCORRHIZAE NEED MODEST SOIL MOISTURE TO THRIVE AND CAN SURVIVE IN A DORMANT
STATE WITH LITTLE OR NO WATER. OVERWATERING WILL KILL BENEFICIAL MYCORRHIZAE. THEY
ALSO NEED OXYGEN AND PRIMARILY HUMOUS AS THEIR FOOD SOURCE.
“TRUE DEEP ROOT” FEEDING AND DEEPER INFREQUENT WATERING PROMOTES THE PERFECT
ENVIRONMENT FOR YOUR EXISTING BENEFICIAL MYCORRHIZAE TO POPULATE YOUR PLANT
AND TREE ROOTZONES AND YIELD A 30% PLUS WATER SAVINGS.
C. DO NOT OVERFERTILIZE!! IT IS HARD FOR MOST PLANTS TO TAKE UP WATER (DRINK) WHEN
THERE IS EXCESSIVE NUTRIENT SALTS DISSOLVED IN THE WATER. AS WE APPROACH THE
SUMMER’S HEAT, IT IS ESPECIALLY IMPORTANT TO HAVE LOWER SOLUABLE NUTRIENTS IN THE
SOIL FROM MID JUNE THROUGH AUGUST. FERTILIZING IN FEBRUARY TO APRIL (WITH LESS
FERTILIZER AS YOU APPROACH THE END OF APRIL) AND/OR HEAVIER FEEDING IN SEPTEMBER
WILL ACHIEVE THE BEST RESULTS.
Page 2 of 4
BUSHNELL’S
WATER REDUCTION CONCEPTS AND EFFORTS THAT WORK
BY DAVE BUSHNELL (BASED ON OVER 30 YEARS OF PRODUCING, PLANTING, AND CARING FOR
THOUSANDS OF VARIETIES AND MILLIONS OF PLANTS & TREES)
III.
PLANT TOP CARE “ ABOVE THE GROUND”
A. REDUCE “VIGOROUS” SOFT NEW FOLIAGE. CHEAPER FAST RELEASE HIGH NITROGEN
FERTILIZERS WILL PUSH A LOT OF “VIGOROUS” NEW GROWTH THAT WILL USE AND DEMAND
MUCH MORE WATER THAN LESS “VIGOROUS” SLOWER NEW AND OLD GROWTH. “VIGOROUS”
IS USED HERE TO DESCRIBE FAST LONG LENGTH SOFT GROWTH SPURTS. LOW NITROGEN IN A
“SLOW RELEASE” FORM IS RECOMMENDED TO PREPARE ALL OF YOUR PLANTS FOR LOW
WATER USE. YOU ARE BEST TO CUT VIGOROUS GROWTH BACK ¾ OF ITS LENGTH WHILE IT IS
SOFT AND ELONGATING.
B. SIGNIFIGANT PLANT REDUCTION IS A GREAT WAY TO PREPARE A TREE OR PLANT TO NEED AND
USE LESS WATER. BY REDUCING THE TOTAL LEAF SURFACE AREA YOU WILL REDUCE THE
PLANT/TREE’S ABILITY AND NEED TO PUMP WATER OUT OF THE GROUND. THIS MUST BE DONE
IN CONJUNCTION WITH LOW TO NO NITROGEN FERTILIZATION PRACTICES.
IV.
V.
NEW PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING
A. THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS TO UNDERSTAND ABOUT NEW PLANTING AND
TRANSPLANTING ARE;
1. THE PLANTS CAN ONLY DRAW MOISTURE FROM THE SOIL AROUND THEIR EXISTING ROOTS.
2. THE SOIL AROUND THE EXISTING ROOTS OF THE NEW PLANT IS NOT “PLUGGED IN” OR
“WELL CONNECTED” TO THE EXISTING SURROUNDING SOIL. THINK OF A PAPER TOWEL,
WITH ONE END IN A PUDDLE, WHICH IS TORN IN HALF BUT SLIGHTLY TOUCHING. WATER
WILL WICK INTO THE PAPER TOWEL AND MOSTLY STOP ALONG THE TORN EDGE (EVEN
THOUGH TOUCHING) LEAVING THE SECOND PIECE OF PAPER TOWEL MOSTLY DRY. (LIKE
THE NEW ROOTBALL)
3. KEEP THE ROOT ZONE MOIST/WET CONTINUOUSLY BY HAND WATERING FOR 14 DAYS.
B. USE “GEOHUMOUS” WATER ABSORBANT IN THE BACK FILL AROUND YOUR NEWLY PLANTED
PLANTS TO HELP EQUAL THE EXTRA WATER NEEDS OF A NEWLY PLANTED PLANT TO THE OTHER
PRE-EXISTING AND ESTABLISHED PLANTS WITHIN THE SAME AUTOMATIC WATERING ZONE.
YOU WILL HAVE TO ADDITIONALLY HAND WATER NEW PLANTINGS AS NEEDED FOR 2 TO 4
WEEKS. YOU CANNOT OVERWATER DURING THE FIRST 2 WEEKS, BUT THEREAFTER YOU
SHOULD ALLOW DRYING OUT BETWEEN WATERINGS AS DESCRIBED IN I.B.
WATER QUALITY – ESPECIALLY FOR THOSE WITH WELLS
A. WELL WATER SHOULD BE TESTED AND ANALYZED BY A LABORATORY THAT UNDERSTANDS
PLANTS AND HOW THEY GROW. “SOIL AND PLANT LABS” (714-282-8777) IS THE LAB THAT WE
USE AT BUSHNELL’S. FOR EXAMPLE; WE HAVE FOUND PROBLEM WELLS IN OUR AREA THAT
HAVE LOW SODIUM AND WOULD NOT RAISE A RED FLAG UNDER STANDARD WATER TESTING.
HOWEVER, THEY LACKED CALCIUM AND MAGNESIUM (WHICH NORMALLY EXIST AND COMBINE
WITH SODIUM TO TAKE IT AWAY FROM THE PLANT ROOTZONE) LEAVING THE LOW SODIUM TO
ACCUMULATE AND YIELD TOXICITY AND DIFFICULTY TO “DRINK” FOR MOST PLANTS. THE
SOLUTION HERE IS TO ADD GYPSUM AROUND EACH PLANT TO PROVIDE CALCIUM WITHOUT
RAISING THE PH.
Page 3 of 4
BUSHNELL’S
WATER REDUCTION CONCEPTS AND EFFORTS THAT WORK
BY DAVE BUSHNELL (BASED ON OVER 30 YEARS OF PRODUCING, PLANTING, AND CARING FOR
THOUSANDS OF VARIETIES AND MILLIONS OF PLANTS & TREES)
SUMMARY:
THE MOST COMMON REASON FOR PLANT AND TREE DEATH OR DECLINE IS
OVERWATERING. MANY LANDSCAPES WILL NEED AND CONSUME UP TO 70%
LESS WATER THAN THEY HAVE PREVIOUSLY RECEIVED AND INCREASE THEIR
OVERALL PLANT HEALTH AT THE SAME TIME BY EMPLOYING MOST TO ALL OF
THE CONCEPTS SUGGESTED HERE. REMEMBER, YOU CAN’T ACTUALLY REDUCE
YOUR WATER USE WITHOUT ADJUSTING YOUR IRRIGATION AMOUNTS AND
FREQUENCY.
BUSHNELL GARDENS NURSERY
5255 DOUGLAS BLVD
GRANITE BAY, CA 95746
(916) 791-4199
 FOR ALL OF YOUR PLANTING NEEDS
(AS WELL AS HOME AND PATIO DÉCOR)
BUSHNELL LANDSCAPE CREATIONS
(916) 791-0756
 FOR WATER SAVING IRRIGATION IMPROVEMENTS
 FOR TURF REMOVAL
GRO-GREEN, INC.
(916) 772-3223
 FOR TRUE “DEEP ROOT FEEDING”
 FOR WEED AND PEST CONTROL
 FOR PRUNING AND REDUCTION
Page 4 of 4