PERSONALITIES & PROFILES
Cutting-edge
perfection
NN Interview with:
Dr Christina Zech, Managing
Director, Faber-Castell Cosmetics
Stein/Nuremberg, Germany
Cosmetic pencils | What are the latest
market trends? And what solutions does
Faber-Castell Cosmetics suggest as an
answer to prospective future trends?
www.fc-cosmetics.com
COSSMA: Could you please briefly describe what have been
the main drivers in the colour cosmetics market recently?
Dr Christina Zech, Managing Director, Faber-Castell Cosmetics: To name a few:
a) Nearly all kinds of brow products
b) New super gliding and ultra-lasting eyeliners and kajals and,
last but not least,
c) Liquid liners with a broad choice of different tip formats
In recent years, social media stars and bloggers have become a
rich source for makeup inspiration. They promote their trends
and challenging ideas on YouTube and Instagram. They are key
when it comes to understanding Gen Z and their approach to
beauty.
What are currently the most innovative markets and why?
A lot of new products (i.e. BB and CC creams) were generated in
South Korea, a very young and curious market. In the US, westcoast brands are gaining momentum and new niche brands are
setting new accents.
What products are particularly innovative currently?
There is a lot of innovation currently in both the mascara and nail
segments, with new fake lashes mascara and nail gel lacquers in
conventional bottles that allow the consumer to achieve a look
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PERSONALITIES & PROFILES
as fresh as from a nail studio. And
generally speaking, supply chain
innovation is an important factor
as the market demands more and
more agility.
What are the most important
challenges for the global cosmetics market?
Complying with the complexity of the worldwide regulatory
environments is always a challenge. Another challenge in complexity is the supply chain, due to
the broad range of our formats,
shapes and formulation platforms
and shades.
Could you please briefly describe the most important recent developments in the field
of natural colour cosmetics?
The biggest challenge, first of all,
is to comply with the demands of
the associations such as Ecocert
and NaTrue without sacrificing
the performance and the colour
variety common in traditional
products. At our company we offer organic, Ecocert-certified formulations. Our latest developments include a range of vegan
formulations, a contribution to
ever more conscious consumers.
The trend towards natural and vegan colour cosmetics is particularly predominant in Western Europe, where consumers are more
sensitised. This has led to a broader choice of natural products being available here.
As the claim “natural” is not protected, the market is characterised by a lot of green-washing. In
general, the ban of parabens and
PAKs led to the creation of more
“sensitive” products.
What have been your company’s most exciting solutions
lately in the field of colour cosmetics?
Wonderbrow is a lightweight pigmented gel formula that wraps
each brow hair in a touch of col-
our and keeps them in place from
am to pm. The long-lasting waterproof formula neither clumps, nor
flakes, nor hardens. It provides a
well-groomed, fuller appearance
that won’t fade or wear off for 12
hours. The special flow-through
bristle brush manages stray hairs
and combs brows into perfect
shape. The dosed application is
activated with each “click”.
Brow Tint is a layerable, water-based formulation for a soft
and natural look. It dries quickly
and offers all-day wear as it does
not smudge, fade or smear. The
slanted tip is perfect for sculpting
and filling in. It is also suitable for
men and will last through gruelling workouts.
Micro Bristles is a new accessory
for our Mechanical Pencil. Its controlled shape, density and hardness provide excellent blending
in a continuous track. It was presented in combination with our
Brow Powderliner, a dry, lightweight formula with smooth glide
which creates a precise, powdery
line without crumbling.
In addition, our extremely
long-lasting gel-like and buttery
textures in pencil-like packagings
have been significant recent creations.
What other recent launches
have been innovative?
Our slim plastic line Magnetic is
suitable for very long-lasting eye
and lip formulations. It can easily be customised from top to toe
in any colour and is now available with shiny, matte, pearly and
metallic finishes. We developed
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Sparkling formula with no glitter
fallout has a very good pay-off
The dosed application of the flow-through
bristle brush combs brows into shape
The special bristle brush combs brows into perfect shape
extraordinary formulations and a
striking colour range that varies
from classic to electric, matte to
metallic. Its gel-like consistency
makes it glide on like a dream,
then sets to a super lasting finish.
The intense metallic eye- and
lip-liner Metallic Blings, which
can also be used as kajal, are infused with very fine sparkling
pearls and create a homogenous
line in one stroke. The cream formulation provides a very intense
metallic shine, locking in maximum sparkle with no glitter fallout as it forms a homogeneous
unit in one stroke. The formula
with super soft application has a
very good pay-off and then sets
“Brow products are key drivers”
Dr Christina Zech, Managing Director, Faber-Castell Cosmetics
www.cossma.com
l 57
PERSONALITIES & PROFILES
The lip tint’s bubble-shaped tip
with a cushion feel glides on easily
How has the cosmetics division
of Faber developed in recent
years?
The colour-matched pencil infused
with glitter particles has a gel-like
texture with multicoloured sparkles
to a long-lasting finish for up to
16 hours. The high pigmentation
goes on supersoft and offers full
coverage.
Jelly Baby is a gel-like texture
with multicoloured sparkles that
makes lips look pure and glossy.
The clear, wet-shine balm is enriched with smooth oils for soft
and conditioned lips. The jumbo-sized, colour-matched pencil
is also infused with glitter particles.
Our Slim and Chubby Liquid Liner range offers an extensive variety of different tips for different
styles. At Cosmopack in Bologna
we presented two new tips: Peeka-boo eye styler has a paddle tip
that provides a double-flow passage around the central opening,
ensuring a continuous, extraordinary saturated line. Candy Bead
lip tint has a bubble-shaped tip
with a cushion feel. It glides on
easily with a smooth touch and
provides a soft and saturated line.
We presented it with a 10-hour
lasting lip tint but of course, it is
also available as an eyeliner.
Faber-Castell Cosmetics is on
track for success and has made
substantial progress during the
past two years. In addition, it
has recently gained more strategic importance within the entire
Faber-Castell Group.
In how many markets are you
particularly active?
Being a supplier with production sites in Germany and Brazil,
our biggest markets are Europe
and the US. Needless to say, Latin America is also growing substantially.
Apart from the traditionally strong
markets, the Arab countries and
Turkey have developed successfully. Products with long-lasting
properties are a must in these regions.
For the future, our strategy is to
be where our customers are and
to meet their needs.
How does a German company
compete with companies from
Asia?
In days of growing salaries in China, a strong USD and persisting
concerns in some segments
sourced from Asia, we are luckily
not in the situation of losing business in our target price segments
to Chinese suppliers. For the
APAC region as a whole, the lack
in supply chain agility towards
Europe is a significant disadvantage for finished products, in particular in the light of the growing
shade-range complexity. But the
buying power and customer base
in the APAC region is also growing, and in general, the concept of
regional production for the area is
gaining more momentum.
What are your favourite colour
cosmetics products personally
and why?
Pencils…I am always on the go.
They are clean, safe and easy to
use in every situation. It is easy
to carry multiple shades, they are
easy to blend and in many cases
allow one-hand application.
Q
Additional information can be found
on the Internet – see download panel
photos: Faber-Castell Cosmetics
The paddle tip’s double-flow passage around the
central opening provides a continuous, saturated line
side sources. Having our fingers
on the pulse is essential and so is
our ability to filter gimmick from
real innovation. Our reliable network of partners helps us to gain
extra momentum where needed
and find cutting-edge crossover
solutions for tomorrow’s needs.
The mixture is the key: Highest
quality, reliability, innovation
and ultimate convenience.
How does your company
generate innovations?
We combine our internal expertise with ideas from various out-
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COSSMA 6 I 2017
Dr Christina Zech, Angelika Meiss and
Sabine Stadlbauer at Cosmopack (from left to right)
www.cossma.com
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