Landscape Camera Techniques and Equipment: By Kelsey C. Galpin, In this essay for A2 Unit 3, I will be looking at ideal camera techniques, styles and equipment for landscape photography. Figure 1: A comparison between slow (left) and fast (right) shutter speed. The first thing to discuss is shutter speed. In order to answer what the shutter speed is, I will need to define the camera shutter. The camera shutter is the device that dictates how much light the camera sensor is exposed to. Imagine it as a curtain in front of the sensor that opens and closes whenever a photo is taken. The shutter speed entails just how long the shutter is open for and how much light is allowed in. It also affects the appearance of moving objects. A slow shutter speed will fail to capture sharper images of moving subjects. A faster shutter speed, on the other hand, will be able to capture moving objects well. What is the ideal shutter speed for landscape photography? I have consulted a variety of different sites and gathered a range of information on this topic. The basics for shutter speed still stand: if I want to handhold the camera and avoid camera shake then I should make the shutter speed faster. Should it fall beneath 1/30 seconds, then I will need a tripod. Shutter speed can affect the way you photograph aspects of the environment. Should I want to photograph running water, for instance, then a slower shutter speed can be used to generate a blur, giving the viewer the impression that the water is moving quickly. A faster shutter speed will be able to completely freeze the water in motion to the point where I’d be able to capture individual drops of water. The second priority when taking any photo is setting the aperture. The aperture is the opening in the camera lens that controls the amount of light that comes in. It has direct control over the camera’s depth of field. An aperture’s size is measured in f-numbers or “f-stops”. A narrow aperture (small opening, i.e. f/8 – f22) allows all objects in the foreground and the background to be in focus. A wide aperture (large opening, i.e. f/1.4 or f/2) isolates the foreground and the objects within it, blurring the background in the process. Figure 2: A comparison between wide (left) and narrow (right) apertures. Ideally, I will need a small aperture for landscape photography as this creates depth and makes objects in the foreground and the background sharp (ExposureGuide, 2015). F/16 is a good setting for this. A larger aperture will only keep objects in the foreground in focus. Now that we have discussed shutter speeds and apertures in regards to landscape, I now want to review the different types of camera lens filters that might be used in landscape photography. Figure 3: A brief comparison between a setting with and without a Polarizing Filter. One such filter is the “Polarizing Filter”. This is a very important filter for landscape photographers to have as its effects can’t be recreated digitally. When taking pictures of the environment, you may find that light has a tendency to bounce and reflect off of different surfaces into the camera sensors. This may cause problems for the photographer. What a polarizing filter does is it removes the polarizing light from an image and reduces the reflection and glares. Additionally, the filter increases colour saturation and intensity for blue skies by cutting down on the haze. The second filter we will be discussing is the Graduated Neutral Density (ND) filter. This filter has a very unique attribute for a very specific purpose. A Graduated ND filter is shaded dark at the top and slowly becomes transparent the further down you go. The portion of the filter that is shaded dark at the top is to artificially darken the sky in a landscape photo. This may be to give off a more gothic or moodier vibe. The main purpose of a Graduated ND filter, however, is to help the balance in lighting between a bright sky and a darker foreground. There are four main Graduated ND filters that can be used for precise creative control. Soft neutral density grads (graduation) have a very soft and gradual border between the shaded and transparent portions of the filter. Medium neutral density grads start to have a more defined line between shades. This type is best used for environments such as rooftops. We start to see a very Figure 4: Two Graduated Neutral Density filters, defined border between shade and transparency with the one with a soft edge (left) and one with a hard hard neutral density grad, which is best used for stricter edge (right). transitions between land and sky. Finally, we have a very hard neutral density grad, which is best suited for very well defined horizon lines like seascapes or deserts. Figure 5: A brief comparison between a setting with and without a skylight filter. Thirdly, I want to discuss the skylight and UV camera filters. Both of these filters are useful when wanting to protect the camera’s lens from damage and for when you want to filter ultraviolet light. This is beneficial as some sensors in digital cameras have been known to be sensitive to UV light. One way in which the skylight filter differs from the UV filter, however, is that it has a pink/subtle magenta tint. This tint has been put in place in order to compensate for the overt shades of blue prominent in most landscape/outdoor settings. The final filter type I will be discussing in this essay is the broad range of colour filters. A colour filter is used for regulating the tone of the images taken, changing the camera’s white balance and for colour correction and subtraction. Depending on the colour of the colour filter, certain wavelengths of light will be filtered out while others are allowed through. This creates contrast. Although these filters can be used in digital photography, they are primarily used in film as the effects of a colour filter can be easily applied to a still image in postprocessing. This concludes my essay for A2 Unit 3. In researching this essay, I have come to further understand shutter speeds and apertures and I have learned the definitions and uses for a range of different camera lenses that work to benefit and enhance digital landscape photography. This is beneficial to me as I have always struggled with the technical aspect of photography. Reference list – World, D.C. (2013) How to photograph anything: Best camera settings for landscape photography. Available at: http://www.techradar.com/how-to/photography-videocapture/cameras/how-to-photograph-anything-best-camera-settings-for-landscapephotography-1320899 (Accessed: 21 November 2016). ExposureGuide (2015) Create depth. Available at: http://www.exposureguide.com/photographing-landscapes.htm (Accessed: 21 November 2016). 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(2017) Why use A polarizing filter?: Digital photo secrets. Available at: http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/4599/use-polarizing-filter/ (Accessed: 9 January 2017). Brady, B.J. (2014) Using graduated neutral density filters for landscape photography. Available at: http://digital-photography-school.com/using-graduated-neutral-density-filtersfor-landscape-photography/ (Accessed: 9 January 2017). Petersen, B. (2013) Available at: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/buying-guide/uv-filters (Accessed: 9 January 2017).
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