SHB50115 Diploma of Beauty Therapy
WRB20104
WRBCS201B – PROVIDE MANICURE AND PEDICURE SERVICES
SHBBCCS002 Prepare personalised aromatic plant oil blends for beauty treatments
LEARNING MATERIAL
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006 210 920
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Advise on beauty products and services
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1
UNIT SCOPE
Element 1. Establish client objectives.
1.1 Access and review client treatment.
1.2 Identify client contraindications to individual aromatic oils and exclude from blend design.
1.3 Identify client’s aromatic oil preferences and consider inclusion in design of blend.
2. Design oil blend.
2.1 Apply organic chemistry and aromatic oil information to evaluate effective aromatic oils for client.
2.2 Determine effects of interactions between selected aromatic and carrier oils and modify design of blend accordingly.
2.3 Select optimum delivery method and calculate ratios of each aromatic oil to ensure effective treatment.
2.4 Explain recommended aromatic plant oils and their effects to client, confirming ingredients and delivery method.
3. Set up for blending.
3.1 Check readiness of preparation area and equipment.
3.2 Check aromatic oils to ensure availability, viability and compliance with expiry dates.
3.3 Use energy, water and other resources efficiently during preparation and blending process.
4. Prepare aromatic oil blends.
4.1 Ensure adequate ventilation in preparation area.
4.2 Measure and mix selected aromatic oils, carrier oil, additives and other mediums according to blend design.
4.3 Minimise deterioration of aromatic oils and blends according to organic chemistry and aromatic oil information.
4.4 Label blends to ensure clarity of ingredients, preparation and expiry dates.
5. Provide treatment using aromatic plant oils.
5.1 Apply aromatic plant oil blend according to treatment plan.
5.2 Minimise wastage of oils and handle safely to minimise deterioration.
5.3 Monitor client reactions and adjust treatment as required.
6. Review treatment and provide post treatment advice.
6.1 Evaluate treatment outcomes with client.
6.2 Provide advice on care of common skin disorders within scope of practice.
6.3 Manage client expectations of potential outcomes.
6.4 Recommend home care, lifestyle changes, aromatic oils and future treatments as required.
6.5 Update treatment plan and rebook client as required.
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UNIT SCOPE CONTINUED
7. Clean treatment area.
7.1 Remove used linen and clean surfaces and equipment according to organisational policies and procedures.
7.2 Restock equipment and products for next treatment.
7.3 Store aromatic oils and prepared blends to minimise light and heat exposure and evaporation.
7.4 Dispose general waste, aromatic oils and hazardous substances to minimise negative environmental impacts according to organizational policies and
procedures.
Foundation skills – 8 to 13
8. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used reading skills to interpret and follow manufacturer instruction including plant oil origin,
chemical analysis and safety data sheets for safe use of aromatic oils and interpret and follow manufacturer instructions and safety data sheets for
dilution, handling, storage and disposal of cleaning products.
9. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used writing skills to record oil blends using botanical name of aromatic oil.
10. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used oral communication skills to select and use appropriate terminology in consultation with
clients and discussions with team members.
11. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used numeracy skills to calculate treatment cost and timing.
12. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used self management skills to maintain practitioner self-care practices including ventilation in
treatment area, fresh air between clients and water intake.
13. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used technology skills to access credible online publications and internet resources that builds
knowledge on use of aromatic oils and use client software to update client notes, record stock data and product purchases.
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History of essential oils
Aromatherapy, as it is practiced today, began with the Egyptians, who used the method of infusion to extract the oils
from aromatic plants. These oils were used for medicinal and cosmetic purposes as well as embalming. The ancient
Chinese civilisations were also using some form of aromatics. Shen Nung's herbal book (dating back to approximately
2700 BC) contains detailed information on over 300 plants and their uses. The Chinese used aromatics in religious
ceremonies by burning woods and incense to show respect to their Gods - a tradition which is still practiced today. The
use of aromatics in China was linked to other ancient therapies such as massage and acupressure.
Aromatherapy has also been used for many centuries in India. Ayurveda, the traditional medical system of India, uses
dried and fresh herbs, as well as aromatic massage as important aspects of their treatments. The Greeks acquired most
of their medical knowledge from the Egyptians. They found that the fragrance of some flowers was stimulating while
others had relaxing properties. The use of olive oil as the base oil, absorbed the aroma from the herbs or flowers and
the perfumed oil was then used for both cosmetic and medicinal purposes.
The Romans learned from the Greeks and became well known for scented baths followed by massage with aromatic
oils. The popularity of aromatics led to the establishment of trade routes which allowed the Romans to import exotic
oils and spices from distant lands such as India and Arabia. With the decline of the Roman Empire, the use of aromatics
faded and the knowledge of their use was virtually lost in Europe during the dark ages.
Botany and aromatherapy.
Botany is defined as the scientific study of plants. It is the understanding of how a plant is structured and its ecological
relationship to both the environment and its interactions with other plants and organisms. Aromatherapy is commonly
defined as the art and science of using the essential oils of plants in a variety of treatment methods. Essential oils are
extracted from various parts of a plant; the root, flower, leaf, fruit and from trees (including bark). The essential oils are
situated in tiny glands, hairs, veins or sacs of the plant and it is the aroma, or smell, of the plant which is used in
aromatherapy.
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What are essential oils?
Essential oils are derived from a variety of plants which grow throughout the world. Not every plant is capable of
producing an essential oil. One hundred per cent pure essential oils are as natural as the scent of a flower, herb or
plant. Approximately 350 essential oils exist worldwide, although not every country can produce the highest grade of
oil. France is renowned for producing the finest Lavender oil, Australia for Eucalyptus and Tea Tree oil, Italy for
Bergamot oil and India for Sandalwood oil. Essential oils are not oily to touch. They range in colour from clear to
orange, yellow, red, brown and green, depending on the plant.
Pure essential oils are highly concentrated liquid extracts from plants. Whole plants, such as Geranium, or specific
aromatic parts of plants, such as the leaves of the Eucalyptus tree, are distilled. Aromatic selections of plant varieties
include leaves, roots, seeds, stems, fruit, peel, buds, flowers, wood, bark, saps (resins) and herbs. The essential oils are
released as an aromatic liquid during the process of distillation or expression.
The amount of essential oil that can be extracted from a plant can vary from 0.01 to 10% of the total organic matter
distilled or expressed. One tonne of rose petals produces one litre of Rose oil. Influencing factors can be; the rarity of
the plant, country of origin, conditions the plant is grown and harvested in, quality standards of the distiller, whether
government permits are required, storage, transportation and currency fluctuations all influence the price of an
essential oil.
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Why plants have aromas
Plants develop an aroma, or smell, for both attraction and defence reasons. If the aroma is found in the root, bark or
leaf of a plant it is there to defend the plant against predators. If the aroma is situated in the flower or fruit it is a signal
to others for pollination and dispersal of seeds.
The aroma of flowers attracts potential pollinators, as well as the colour and shape of a particular flower. The aroma
does not necessarily have to be a pleasant smell. Rotting fruit is attractive to tropical bats while the scent of night
blooming Jasmine (Cestrum noctiflorum) is irresistible to hawk moths.
The leaves of a plant may contain defence mechanisms within the essential oils they hold. On a hot day, these essential
oils evaporate, as all essential oils are volatile at or above room temperature. If a predator attempts to eat the leaves of
a plant it may result in nausea or even death, as the leaves commonly contain the chemical compound of terpenes.
Terpenes have also been known to hinder the growth of surrounding plants if they enter the soil on watering.
Where plants store essential oils.
Aromas in a plant are the end product of metabolism and are stored in a variety of places.
Oil or resin canals – tubular canals or ducts are formed when neighbouring glandular cells move apart; these spaces
store essential oils of the Apiaceae plant family such as Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Coriander (Coriandrum sativum)
and Aniseed (Pimpinella anisum).
Oil cells and resin cells – cells which fill with resin or oils of the Lauraceae plant family such as Cinnamon
(Cinnamomum zeylanicum) and Bay Laurel (Laurus nobilis).
Oil reservoirs – the formation of secondary cavities from the disintegration of lysigenous secretory cell reservoirs of the
Rutaceae plant family such as Lemon (Citrus limon)and Bergamot (Citrus bergamia).
Glandular hairs, scales and cells – single or multi cell convexities, on the surface of the plant's skin layer; found in the
Lamiaceae plant family such as Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) and Thyme (Thymus vulgaris).
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Medicinal parts of plants
In most cases only part of the plant is used for medicinal purposes and
frequently it is the leaves. Leaves are often rich in the various glycosides,
alkaloids and essential oils. Stems of some woody plants are used
particularly for their bark and sapwood. Buds of some perennial species are
also used.
In some flowers the medicinally active constitutes are found with pigments
that give the blossoms their colour. Red rose petals are full of tannins while
the flowers of the German chamomile are rich in essential oils. The pollen of
some species have relatively large amounts of vitamins and minerals. The
rind and seeds of fruits may be rich in substances with potential medical
uses. Fleshy fruits may contain large reserves of vitamins, organic acids and
sugars.
Medical parts of plants also grow underground. They can contain large
stores of sugars and starches and are an important source of vitamins and
other nutrients. There are various kinds of plant secretions, particularly
gums and resins, that have therapeutic applications.
The medicinal substances contained in plants are the products of natural
processes. They are common to all plants but some species have their own
particular variations. Not all plants produce alkaloids, glycosides and
essential oils which are required for use in medicinal preparations.
Dandelion root is used as a diuretic and
tonic with the leaves used for their
vitamin A and C content.
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Identifying chemical terminology
Organic chemistry deals with the chemistry of carbon based chemicals which are extracted from plant and animal
sources. Although aromatic plant oils are natural, it does not mean that they are harmless. Many can have toxic effects
so care must be taken when using plant oils on clients with certain health conditions.
Volatility.
These are substances which are classified as volatile. They will easily change from a solid or liquid state to a vapour or
gas. They evaporate easily and are referred to as ‘top notes’ in aromatherapy.
Solubility.
This refers to the oil’s ability to dissolve in water and solvents when used in blending processes. Most essential oils are
not water soluble due to their chemical composition although different oils can penetrate the skin in varying degrees.
Elements.
These are the most basic substances and cannot be broken down into smaller parts. They are made up of atoms which
usually have the same number of protons and electrons. There are ninety two naturally occurring elements which can
be divided into two basic groupings of metals and non metals.
Atoms.
These are the smallest part of an element that can undergo chemical change. Atoms are composed of three types of
subatomic particles. A central nucleus, made up of protons and neutrons, is surrounded by electrons. The different
properties of elements are the result of differing numbers of protons, neutrons and electrons.
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Identifying chemical terminology
Protons.
These are located in the centre of the atom and have a positive electrical charge.
Neutrons.
These are located in the centre of the atom and have no electrical charge, being neutral. This prevents the positive
protons from repelling one another.
Electrons.
Electrons have a negative electrical charge and travel around the nucleus in defined layers, referred to as shells or
orbits. Each shell has a maximum number of electrons that it can hold.
Layer 1 – up to 2 electrons.
Layer 2 – up to 8 electrons.
Layer 3 – up to 18 electrons.
The electrons are held in these layers by the attraction between their negative charge and the positive charge of the
protons.
Molecules.
Two or more atoms combine to form molecules which behave as units in themselves and have their own distinct
properties.
Energy.
Electrons at greater distances from the nucleus contain more stored energy. Many of the chemical reactions that are
associated with energy, such as photosynthesis, involve electrons moving to higher or lower energy levels.
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Identifying chemical terminology
Chemical bonds.
Chemical bonds form when atoms combine to fill their outer shells with electrons. Bonds can be electrovalent or
covalent or the much weaker hydrogen bond. Electrovalent bonds are not found in aromatic plant oil compounds.
Covalent bonds.
A covalent bond is a bond sharing one or more pairs of electrons, rather than losing or gaining electrons. When the
atoms touch, the outer shells overlap and the electrons are attracted to both nuclei, forming the bond.
Bonds can be;
A. Single bonds – one pair of electrons form the bond.
B. Double bonds – two pairs of electrons form the bond.
C. Triple bonds – three pairs of electrons form the bond.
Covalent bond
Covalent bonds are usually solids, low melting point solids and volatile liquids. They are usually
insoluble in water. The compounds found in aromatic plant oils and carrier oils are covalently
bonded. Carbon bonds have the ability to make numerous strong covalent bonds. Carbon bonds
form what is called the ‘carbon backbone’.
Carbon backbones.
The carbon backbone is formed when carbon atoms attach in straight or branched carbon
chains or rings. The single line (-) between each letter represents a single bond C – C – C – C – C – C. A double bond would be represented by = C = C = C = C.
Carbon rings of atoms
are also common in
organic structures.
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Identifying chemical terminology
Compounds.
When molecules containing two or more elements join together, they create a compound. Many compounds share the
same molecular formula and it is the different arrangement of the molecules that gives the substance its particular
properties. This is known as ‘isomerism’. Compounds which have only single bonds are referred to as ‘ saturated’ while
those with double or triple bonds are ‘ unsaturated’.
Isoprene unit.
This is a molecule consisting of 5 carbon atoms and 8 hydrogen atoms that form a basic chain or unit. These chains or
units combine to form progressively heavier and more volatile chemicals.
Aliphatic molecule.
This relates to organic compounds whose carbon atoms are linked in open chains, either straight or branched, rather
than containing a benzene ring. Alkanes, alkenes and alkynes are aliphatic compounds.
Benzene ring.
This molecule consists of six carbon atoms formed into a ring with alternate single and double bonds. One of the
electrons from each of the carbon atoms is able to move freely around the ring making them ‘de-localised’. This delocalised ring structure is called ‘aromatic’ and in chemical terminology it refers to the structure not a fragrance.
Functional groups.
Functional groups are made up of two to or more atoms within a molecule giving the whole molecule particular
properties. The most commonly occurring functional groups are alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, acids and esters.
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Identifying chemical terminology
Terpenes.
Terprenes are hydrocarbons (hydrogen plus carbon) which are based on the isoprene unit of five carbon atoms and
eight hydrogen atoms. Terpenes can be categorised into;
-Monoterpenes are made up of 2 isoprene units. These are not water soluble and are amongst the most volatile
substances. They have weak odours and are prone to oxidation, a reaction with oxygen.
-Sesquiterpenes are made up of 3 isoprene units. These are the most common terpenes in the plant world. They have
strong odours and are prone to oxidation. They contribute to the lasting odour of oils with base notes as most consist of
large slowly evapourating molecules.
-Diterpenes are made up of 4 isoprene units. These are not often found in aromatic plant oils as their low volatility
means they are not easily extracted. The exception to this is Sclareol (diterpinols) which is found in Clary sage oil.
Alcohols.
Alcohol functional groups are made up of different combinations of oxygen and hydrogen atoms attached to a carbon
atom. They are considered the most beneficial of aromatic plant oil constituents as they tend to have low toxicity and
pleasing odours and are low irritant. When an alcohol functional group attaches to a monoterpene the resulting
compound is referred to as a monoterpenol. When it attaches to a sesquiterpene, the compound is called a
sesquiterpenol. When attached to a diterpene, the compound is called a diterpinol. The alcohols are generally
considered to have antiseptic and anti-viral properties and the most common are linalool, which is found in Rosewood
and Lavender, lenalyl and citranylal and geraniol found in Geranium. Other constituents in the alcohol family include
borneol, menthol, nerol, terpineol farnesol vetiverol, benzyl alcohol and cedrol.
Monoterpenols.
These are often less volatile than montoerpenes and are usually soluble in ethanol or other oils. They include terpineol
found in Juniper and Tea tree oils, linalool found in Lavender oil and citronellol found in Rose and Geranium oils. They
are stimulating and warming with good antiseptic, anti-viral and anti-fungal properties. They will oxidise if exposed to
air.
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Identifying chemical terminology
Sesquiterpenols.
These are soluble in alcohol and oils. Their volatility is dependent on their individual molecular structure and they have
anti-allergen and anti-inflammatory properties. Sandalwood oil contains the sesquiterpenol ‘a-santalol’. They will also
oxidise if exposed to air.
Phenols.
Phenols are very potent chemicals and need to be treated with care. A number of phenols exist in aromatic plant oils as
phenolic ethers, where the hydrogen atom of the functional group is replaced with a different group. They have similar
properties to phenols but are usually more powerful. Many are neurotoxic in large quantities.
Aldehydes.
These are derived from alcohols through the process of oxidation. They are slightly soluble in water and are generally as
volatile as alcohols. They will easily oxidise to an acidic form and are often skin irritants. They have anti-fungal, antiinflammatory and disinfectant properties.
Ketones.
These are formed when the carbonyl group attaches itself to either the ring or chain molecule and their name always
ends in ‘one’, for easy identification. Some ketones can be very dangerous, so oils high in ketones should be avoided
during pregnancy.
Acids.
Most plant acids are water soluble and they can be found in the distillation water rather than the oils. The acids which
are found in aromatic plant oils are usually carboxylic acids. These are weaker than mineral acids such as hydrochloric.
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Identifying chemical terminology
Esters.
Esters are produced by a reaction between an alcohol or phenol and a carboxylic acid. Esters provide the sweet or fruity
aromas and are found in a large number of aromatic plant oils and include linalyl acetate found in Lavender oil.
Hydrophilic.
Hydrophilic substances are attracted to and dissolve well within water. Hydrophilic is typically used to describe a
property of a molecule and refers to the likelihood of its bonding with the hydrogen molecule in water. A hydrophilic
molecule is not just soluble in water but also in other polar solvents. It will dissolve less readily in oils and other
hydrophobic solvents. Hydrophilic molecules are charge-polarized so that one end is positive and the other negative.
Lipophilic substances – oils and lipids in cosmetics.
Lipophilic substances make the skin water-resistant, reduce the transepidermal water loss and thus protect the skin
against dehydration by filling up microscopic indentations in the skin. They lead to a noticeable smoothing of the skin
which simultaneously also reduces minor wrinkles. Cremes based on oils with low solidification point spread easily and
evenly on the skin. Lipids and waxes with a higher melting point show a more solid consistency, which is needed for
lipsticks.
Synergy.
This refers to the effect created by two or more substances which is greater than the effect created by each of the
individual substances.
Quenching.
This term is used to denote the use of one substance to suppress the harmful effects of another.
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Identifying aromatic plant oil properties
Essential oil.
An essential oil is a concentrated, hydrophobic liquid containing volatile aroma compounds from plants. An oil is
‘essential’ in the sense that it carries a distinctive scent, or essence, of the plant. Essential oils do not, as a group, have
any specific chemical or pharmaceutical properties in common. Instead, they are defined by the fact that they convey
characteristic fragrances. They are used in perfumes, cosmetics, soaps and many other products. Aromatic plant oils are
mixtures which can be made up of hundreds of compounds. These compounds are usually covalently bonded volatile
liquids. The quality and composition of aromatic plant oils are of great importance when assessing them for use in
blends. An oil for use in an aromatic blend should not be artificially altered in any way.
Taxonomy.
This refers to the classification of organisms into groups with similar characteristics. Botany plants are classified
according to their;
•Family – there are 21 plant families.
•Genus – this refers to the type or kind within the family.
•Species – these are a group of plants within a genus that can cross pollinate. Within a species there can be sub species,
where plants have the same structure and form but produce different quantities of chemical components in their oils.
Chemotype.
Chemotype is the chemical constituents in a plant. When the same plant species is subjected to different environments,
the concentration of the individual chemical constituents will vary. This variance will greatly affect the therapeutic
properties of the essential oil.
Oil quality.
The quality of oil can be affected by 5 elements.
•Extraction method, method of growth including the use of pesticides and herbicides, soil composition, climate and
processing time.
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Conditions that affect aromatic oils
The qualities of an oil may differ in smell, colour and chemical constituents from harvest to harvest and from location
to location where the plant is grown.
Environmental conditions.
Numerous ecological conditions have a big impact on plants and their essential oil. Fertilisers, altitude, sun exposure,
rainfall, drought, climate, soil type, plant density and weed control all affect the individual components that make up
an essential oil.
Part of the plant utilised.
Different parts of the plant have different chemical constituents.
Harvesting time.
Depending when the plant is harvested, the essential oil yield and the individual constituents will decrease or increase.
The methods used to harvest also affect the quality of the yield.
Methods of extraction.
The processing method used to extract the oil from the plant directly affects the composition of the oil. The chemical
composition of the plant material influences the extraction method used as some components break down more
readily with different methods.
Expression.
Most citrus essences are extracted by means of expression. The écuelle à piquer extraction process is where the fruit is
placed in a device and rotated with spikes on the side puncturing the oil cells in the skin of the fruit. This causes the oil
cells to rupture and the essential oil and other material such as pigment, to run down to the middle of the device,
which contains a collection area. The liquid is then separated and the oil is removed from the water-based parts of the
mixture and decanted.
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Methods of extraction
Steam distillation.
Pressurised steam passes through the perforated floor of the receptacle holding the botanical material and vapourises
the volatile oil. The heat produced by the steam and the water saturation inside the receptacle causes the oil to
vapourise at a lower temperature than normal. The vapour and oil mixture passes into a condenser through a vapour
tube. The mixture passes through a condenser which has cold water running through it in the opposite direction to the
mixture. As the vapour is cooled it returns to its liquid state and passes into a separator. The oil is lighter and rises to the
top of the separator where it is drawn off. The water contains traces of oil and is referred to as hydrosol or floral water.
Water distillation.
This works on a similar principle to the steam method. The plant material is immersed in water, which is then heated to
temperatures no higher than 100°C with the water vapour carrying the extracted oil. The vapour is cooled through a
condenser and the oils and hydrosol are collected separately. This method preserves some components due to the
lower temperature used, although the water can damage other components due to the long process. Water distillation
is not suitable for any plant material that contain high levels of esters.
Hydro-diffusion.
This differs from steam distillation in that the steam percolates down through the plant material allowing for a shorter
processing time. Less steam is used and a higher oil yield is produced.
Solvent.
In this method, solvents such as petroleum ether, methanol, ethanol or hexane are used to extract fragile plant material
such as jasmine, hyacinth and tuberose which are not able to withstand the heat required in steam distillation. The
plant material is placed into the solvent which dissolves out the oils. The solvent is then recovered using a gentle heat.
A solvent extracted oil is very concentrated and is very close to the natural fragrance of the original plant material used.
After the plant material has been treated with the solvent, it produces a waxy aromatic compound referred to as a
‘concrete’.
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Methods of extraction
Rectification in extraction of essential oils.
When an essential oil contains any impurities, it can be purified by re-distillation - either in steam or in a vacuum. This
purification by re-distillation is referred to as rectification.
Maceration extraction method.
With the maceration extraction method, the flowers are soaked in hot oil to have their cell membranes ruptured and
the hot oil then absorbs the essence. The oil is then cleared of the botanical and decanted.
Fractional distillation.
This is where the plant is distilled in batches. The essential oil is collected at different stages during the distillation
process.
Hypercritical carbon dioxide gas - CO2 extraction of essential oils.
Carbon dioxide becomes hypercritical at 33 degrees Celsius, which is a state in which it is not really gas or liquid, but has
qualities of both. It is an excellent solvent to use in the extraction of essential oils due to the low temperature required
and that the process is near to instantaneous. The carbon dioxide is inert and therefore does not chemically interact
with the essence that is being extracted. To remove the carbon dioxide solvent the pressure is released. This process
has to take place in a closed chamber as the hypercritical pressure required for carbon dioxide is 200 atmospheres - that
is 200 times the pressure of normal atmosphere. To achieve this type of pressure, heavy-duty stainless steel equipment
is required.
CO2 extraction heavy-duty
stainless steel equipment
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Cost of producing aromatic oils
Availability.
Some aromatic oils are derived from rare plants, which means in some instances, work production cannot keep up with
the market demands. A poor harvest can affect the availability of an oil which will affect its price.
Labour costs.
Some oils require hand picking which is very labour intensive. Jasmine, neroli, rose and frankincense are extremely
labour intensive crops to pick as they produce small yields.
Organic essential oils.
Essential oils that are grown organically are generally more expensive. The range of organic essential oils is limited as
organic certification is mainly used for food crops and not essential oils.
The yield.
The amount of essential oil in each species will vary. If the essential oil is in abundance in the plant and is easy to
extract, then the price will be cheaper. If the essential oil is in very tiny quantities in the plant and difficult to extract
then it will be more expensive.
Infused oils.
These are different to essential oils. An infused oil can be used directly on the skin and as a base for diluting other
essential oils as they are already diluted in a cold pressed vegetable oil. The chopped herbs are placed into an airtight
container filled with a cold pressed oil, such as soyabean or almond oil. The oil in the herb then infuses into the cold
pressed oil over time. After a number of months the oil is drained and then filtered. This is ‘infused oil’.
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Legal requirements
Therapeutic Goods Administration.
The Australian federal government body, Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA), created the Therapeutic Goods Act
in 1989 to regulate the therapeutic claims made by manufacturers of therapeutic goods in Australia. The TGA audits the
quality and authenticity of all therapeutic products. This means that any company that makes a therapeutic claim about
a product has to prove that claim, in accordance with TGA regulations, before a license is granted.
The therapeutic product must also be manufactured in a TGA licensed manufacturing facility. This is costly and time
consuming. Some producers of aromatic essential oils will not have invested in becoming TGA licensed and therefore
make no therapeutic claims on their products. They are able to sell their oils at a cheaper price however there is no
guarantee of the quality of the product as these companies are not obliged to prove the authenticity of their product.
The contents and packaging of a therapeutic product must pass numerous tests to ensure that what is specified on the
label is exactly what is in the container.
International Standards Organisation (ISO).
The ISO is based in Geneva, where it was originally founded in 1946. The ISO has more than 80 countries involved and
unlike the TGA, it is not mandatory to follow the ISO. The ISO is concerned with providing standardisation of quality in
all technical and most non technical fields globally.
Contact your local state health department for specific requirements.
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Organisational policies and procedures
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Maintain client records.
Follow manufacturer’s instructions on product use.
Report any incident involving blended oil treatments.
Follow linen use and laundry procedures.
Follow personal hygiene and presentation standards of treatment area.
Follow waste and hazardous substance disposal.
Follow work health and safety requirements and operator’s legal and insurance liabilities and responsibilities in
regard to treatments.
Refer clients to other practitioners when necessary.
Advise clients of recognised contraindications to treatment.
Understand and follow the limitations to treatments.
Understand and follow the roles of nutritionist, dietician, complementary therapist and medical practitioner
factors that are likely to affect suitability of the blended oil treatment for client.
aroma triggered epilepsy
fever, lethargy nausea
areas exhibiting loss of
sensation
fragile skin
recent scar tissue
POTENTIAL CONTRA-INDICATIONS TO USE OF BLENDED OILS
bacterial, fungal, parasitic and cancer
viral infections
extreme fatigue and extremes pain that is chronic or does
of body temperature
not have a logical explanation
erythema
asthma
inflammation, lumps and
tissue changes
severe oedema
clients with symptoms of
infectious disease:
allergies to specific aromatic
oils
dizziness
migraines and headaches
rashes
skin trauma
recent chemical peels,
epilation, Intense Pulsed
Light, laser or
microdermabrasion treatment
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Difference between essential oils and fragrance oils
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


Essential oils
Derived 100% from plants
Extracted by various methods
Therapeutic
Medicinal and aroma purposes
Expensive to produce
1. 100% (1mL/1mL)
PURE ESSENTIAL OIL
2. Lime
3. Citrus aurantifolia
4. AUST L 52361
5. NET 25ml
6. EXP 09/2012
7. 785241
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Fragrant oils
Made from synthetic ingredients
Manufactured in a laboratory
Non therapeutic
Fragrance purpose
Inexpensive to produce
Explanation of the text on a TGA licensed essential oil label
This is the percentage of essential oil contained in the bottle. 1mL/1mL means that every
1mL of product contains 1mL of pure essential oil.
The common name of the essential oil
The botanical name of the essential oil
The TGA license number for the essential oil
The amount of oil contained in the bottle
The expiry date of the essential oil
The product batch number. This number is a record that allows the manufacturer to trace
the source of the raw material in the event of contamination or recall
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23
Blending of essential oils for use in beauty treatments
You have already gained knowledge of aromatic plant oil chemistry and how specific plants are able to produce
essential oils. In this unit you will be learning how to choose essential oils to blend together to create preparations that
can be used in beauty treatments.
Essential oil.
An essential oil is a concentrated, hydrophobic liquid containing volatile aroma compounds from plants. An oil is
‘essential’ in the sense that it carries a distinctive scent, or essence, of the plant. Essential oils do not, as a group, have
any specific chemical or pharmaceutical properties in common. Instead, they are defined by the fact that they convey
characteristic fragrances.
Smells take a direct, physical route to the brain because they employ nerve cells as transmitters and receivers. Odours
travel directly through the olfactory system in the nose and the front part of the head into the limbic area of the brain.
The limbic brain is responsible for smell, memory and emotions as well as hormone regulation, digestive activity, blood
pressure, respiration, regulation of heart rate and sexual responses. Inhaled oils have physical and psychological impacts
on clients. The heat from the gentle flame of the candle in a vapouriser causes the oil to release its fragrance into the
air. This is a very common use of essential oils.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
SENSE OF SMELL
Air containing odour molecules passes bony turbinates
Odour molecules are picked up by hairlike odour receptors called cilia
The cilia carry the smell message to the olfactory nerves
The message goes to the base of the olfactory epithelium
Odour interpretation begins
The interpretation is routed through the limbic system in the brain
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The purpose of blending aromatic oils
Before you begin to blend aromatic oils together you need to decide what is the purpose of the blend. This needs to be
determined before you begin to choose the oils for your mix.
Decisions to be made.
•Who is the blend for? Adult or child.
•What is the mix required for? Therapeutic purposes or fragrance.
•If therapeutic, what is the condition requiring treatment?
•Where will the blend be applied? Face, body or both.
•How will the blend be used? Massage, vapouriser, compress or poultice.
•What base will you be using? Carrier oil, creme or lotion.
By answering these questions you will be able to determine which oils to use, how many drops to use in the chosen
base and how it will be used in the treatment.
WARNING.
If you intend to add the blend into a bath, the absorption of the essential oils through the skin is increased 100 times.
Skin absorption.
Precutaneous absorption is the passage of substances through the skin into the dermis and blood system. The skin
forms a barrier to reduce transepidermal water loss . Applying an aromatherapy blend to the skin, the vegetable carrier
oils stays in the upper epidermal layer to moisturise the outer layers as its molecules are too big to be absorbed.
Essential oils have much smaller molecules and they are absorbed through the epidermis, down into the dermal layer
and into the thin blood vessels just under the skin. From here they are carried into the circulatory system. Once
essential oils are in the circulatory system, they will travel around the body for several hours before being excreted,
mainly via the kidneys, but also in sweat and in tiny amounts in the breath. Some essential oil compounds stay longer
in the system, but the amounts are very tiny and are eventually excreted by the body.
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Essential oil safety
The average bottled essential oil is approximately one hundred times stronger than the oil found in the original plant.
Essential oils are highly specialised natural substances that should only be used in very small amounts. Aromatherapy
massage should never be considered as a replacement for qualified medical advice or treatment. If in doubt about a
client’s condition always refer them to a qualified practitioner. A skin patch test should be conducted prior to using oils
that you've never used before.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
ESSENTIAL OIL PATCH TEST
Pour ½ a teaspoon of the carrier medium into a small container. Add 1 drop of each of the essential oils you are
planning to use into the mix
With a spatula, mix the combinations and rub into the inside of the client’s forearm. Repeat several times
You may need to cover the area if the oils are likely to stain the client’s clothing
Leave undisturbed for a few hours. If the client begins to feel a burning sensation, itching or the skin becomes
red and very warm, pour some milk over the area and wash off with unperfumed soap and water. The fat in the
milk will help to remove the essential oil. Do not proceed with the treatment
If no reaction occurs then it is safe to proceed
Compress and poultice.
Aromatherapy compresses and poultices are simple and effective ways to treat sprains, bruises, headaches and many
other conditions. An herbal hot pack, also known as a poultice or compress, is applied externally so nothing is ingested.
Fill a container with enough hot water to cover the cotton cloth. Add in essential oil blend for the condition you are
treating. Soak the cloth in hot water, wring out, leaving some liquid in the cloth. Fold the cloth and place on plastic cling
wrap. The wrap will keep the liquid from making a mess and will hold the heat in longer. Place the hot, wet cloth on the
skin and leave in place until it cools. This procedure can be repeated if necessary.
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Special considerations
•Always dilute essential oil - with the exception of lavender, all essential oils should never be used neat on the skin.
•Do not swallow essential oils - they could pose a toxicity risk if they come into immediate contact with the mucus
lining of the mouth and digestive tract.
•Care on sensitive and damaged skin - use half the number of drops of essential oils in the blend on sensitive or
damaged skin.
•Allergic reactions - if a reaction occurs during the massage, stop immediately and wash the skin with fragrance free
soap and water.
•Phototoxicity - essential oils from the citrus family contain a constituent called bergaptene which can cause skin
sensitivity in UV light. This leads to the formation of irregular pigmentation patches. No exposure to UV light should
occur for 12-24 hours if using citrus oils.
•Sufferers of high blood pressure - do not use rosemary oil in the blend as it has an intense stimulating effect on the
circulatory system and is not good for people with high blood pressure.
•Sufferers of epilepsy - do not use rosemary or yarrow essential oils as they can potentially increase the rate of
epileptic seizures because of their highly stimulating effects on the brain.
•Cancer sufferers - should only proceed with treatment if they have received medical permission.
•Pregnancy - any blends used on pregnant women must have the same amount of carrier oil but contain only half the
number of essential oil drops quoted in the formula.
•Babies and children - use diluted blends as children have a much finer skin than adults and absorb more of the
essential oils.
•Older people - use half the number of recommended drops in the blend while keeping the same amount of carrier oil
as their skin tends to thin with age.
Factors that may affect the suitability of a client for these treatments.
- budgetary and time constraints.
- outcomes of previous treatments.
- physical attributes.
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Considerations before applying aromatic blends
The use of blended essential oils can enhance many treatments that are conducted in beauty and spa services provided
that the ingredients and their ratios are appropriate to achieve the outcomes of the treatment plan.
You need to consider;
•The client’s reasons for having the treatment.
•The additional cost and time involved in having the blended oils used in the treatment.
•Any contraindications to having the treatment or using aromatic blended oils.
Conditions to consider.
Any visible, non-normal skin condition should be treated with caution. If unsure of condition do not proceed. Refer
client to medical practitioner.
Pregnancy - it's safe to use some essential oils while the client is pregnant, as long as they are healthy and you're careful
with them. Certain oils should not be used during pregnancy as they may cause difficulties. These oils are referred to as
having emmenagogue properties. See page 30.
Sensitising - this is a condition where the skin reaction is seen as a rash, blisters, redness or becomes itchy. This
condition can result in dermatitis if the offending oil is continually used. If a reaction is seen, stop immediately to allow
the condition to abate.
Neurotoxic - some essential oils have the ability to cross the blood-brain barrier and have a profound adverse effect on
the central nervous system. These effects may include convulsions and hallucinations.
Hepatotoxic - this refers to the compounds which can be toxic to the liver. Damage to the liver through topical
application is highly unlikely when using pre-blended oils as only small amounts are used on the skin.
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Choosing the essential oils
Blending oils is a very personal thing. As there are hundreds of essential oils to choose from, it is best to mix no more
than 3 essential oils into the blend.
Oils chosen for aroma.
If the oils are being used for their aromatic qualities, you must consider the client’s preferences. What one person may
like, another person may find it upsetting. Allow your client to smell the individual oils before blending them together.
Oils for therapeutic purposes.
You need to create a blend that contains oils that do not conflict with each other. This means, if you want to create a
relaxing blend do not add a stimulating essential oil such as rosemary as this will counteract the relaxing actions. Use
oils that have similar properties to enhance the effect. As each individual essential oil has more than one therapeutic
property, you need to look at all the properties of each oil to make sure they are harmonious with each other.
Emotional aspects.
Essential oils work on an emotional level. For example, if you are making a blend for relaxation and the client is feeling
depressed, add in an essential oil that has uplifting properties.
Synergistic effect.
Synergy is the blend as a whole being greater than the sum of the individual parts. This means that the properties of
individual essential oils enhance each other when combined. This refers to the combining of essential oils to intensify
the therapeutic or emotional effect, increasing the potency of the blend without increasing the concentrations.
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The notes of essential oils
Essential oils are often described by their ‘note’. The three categories of classification are top note, middle note and
base note and these terms relate to the rate at which they evaporate, or how long the fragrance will last.
•Top Notes are the most stimulating and uplifting oils. They are strongly scented, but the perfume lasts only for
approximately 3 to 24 hours.
•Middle Notes are the next longest lasting, at about 2 to 3 days. They affect the metabolic and body functions. The
perfume is less potent than that of top note oils.
•Base Notes are the slowest oils to evaporate, lasting up to one week. They have a sweet, soothing scent and a
relaxing, comforting effect on the body.
Allspice
Birch
Cajuput
Cedarwood
Elemi
Hyssop
Lemongrass
Mustard
Patchouli
Rose geranium
Sassafras
Tangerine
Vetiver
Aniseed
Bitter almond
Chamomile
Cinnamon
Eucalyptus
Jasmine
Lime
Neroli
Peppermint
Rosemary
Sandalwood
Thyme
Wintergreen
List of commonly used essential oils
Basil
Bay
Calamus
Cardamom
Camphor
Caraway
Citronella
Clary sage
Fennel
Frankincense
Juniper
Lavandin
Mandarin
Marjoram
Nutmeg
Orange
Petitgrain
Pennyroyal
Rose otto
Rosewood
Spearmint
Tagetes
Tea tree
Thuja
Wormseed
Wormwood
Bergamot
Cumin
Carrot seed
Clove
Geranium
Lavender
Myrrh
Oregano
Pine
Rue
Tansy
Tuberose
Ylang ylang
Prepare personalised aromatic plant oil blends for beauty treatments
Black pepper
Coriander
Cassia
Dill
Helichrysum
Lemon
Mugwort
Palma rosa
Rose
Sage
Tarragon
Vanilla
Yarrow
30
Using the notes
Top notes.
These give the first impression of a blend. They normally form about 10 to 20% of the blend. They are volatile and can
be quite sharp. Citrus oils are top note oils.
Middle notes.
These form the bulk of the blend being 50 to 80% of the blend. They give roundness and smoothness to a blend.
Essential oils such as floral, spices, herbal, seeds and some wood and roots are examples of middle note oils.
Base notes.
These give the blend its lasting qualities. Use only 5 to 10% in a blend. They can last on the skin for several hours and
act as fixatives for the blend. Base notes hold the blend together and slow down the evaporation rate. Its fragrance is
light and soft and it deepens becoming more profound over a period of time.
Combining the notes.
You do not need to have a top, middle or base notes in the blend for it to be successful. A blend can be made in many
ways. Add the oils with care. Do not add too many drops. In some instances, one drop of oil can have a huge impact on
the overall blend, making that one drop a vital part of the blend. To test how the oils will smell together, take the lids off
the oil bottles, hold the bottles (no more than three) together in your hands and move them back and forth under your
nose. The scent of the essential oils will combine to give you an indication of how these oils might smell in a blend.
Odour intensity.
There is a scaling system from 1 to 6 to gauge the strength of essential oil odours.
1.
Mild
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Strong
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Oil ratios for blending
To begin to create the ratios for a blend you need to take into consideration;
•Personal preference of the client for a particular aroma.
•Intended use of the blend.
•The size and age of the client.
•The treatment requirements. Body treatments require more oils than facial treatments. When treating children, the
elderly and pregnancy, you should adjust the ratio to the lower end of the scale.
Pure essential oils have a wide range of therapeutic benefits. The method applied can effect the results you receive. No
essential oil should be applied undiluted to the skin. Normal dilution is 2.5%, being 15 drops of the essential oil or
synergistic blend to one ounce (30 mls) of carrier oil. Always go less rather than more when using pure essential oils.
How many drops to use.
If a particular essential oil has all the qualities you are after, you may decide to use more of that essential oil in the
blend. You need to consider the odour intensity of the oil. This refers to the intensity of how strong or weak the aroma
appears.
30ml
1 floz
600 drops
2 tablespoon full
15ml
½ floz
300 drops
1 tablespoon full
5ml
1/6 floz
100 drops
1 teaspoon full
1ml
1/30th floz
20 drops
1/5 teaspoon full
Equipment used in preparing a blend.
•Clean glass bottle to minimise evaporation of volatile oils.
•Measuring jug to measure carrier oils.
•A separate dropper or spoon for each essential oil plus one for the blend.
•Bowls and spatulas if you are preparing a cream or lotion blend.
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Describing scents
There is a standard system that aromatherapists use to group similar scents together.
Scent
Balsamic
Camphor
Citrus
Earthy
Floral
Herbal
Minty
Spicy
Wood
DESCRIBING SCENTS
Description
Soft, sweet, smooth and warm
Clean, penetrating, sharp with the smell of mothballs
Fresh, light and stimulating
Fresh and intense
Single flower or bouquet of flowers
Crushed leaves with a slight woody note
Menthol scent
Warm, lingering with a slight sharpness
Soft, smooth lingering scent
Example
sandalwood, myrrh
pine, rosemary
bergamot, lemon, grapefruit
patchouli, vetiver
jasmine, rose, neroli
marjoram, thyme, basil
spearmint, peppermint
clove bud, ginger
cedarwood, cypress
Oils that are not safe for use in pregnancy.
- Nutmeg, which may have hallucinogenic effects and react with pain relieving drugs in labour.
- Rosemary, which is thought to increase blood pressure, and may cause contractions.
- Basil, which is thought to contribute to abnormal cell development.
- Jasmine and clary sage, which may trigger contractions.
- Sage and rose, which may cause bleeding in your uterus (womb).
- Juniper berry, which may affect your kidneys.
- Laurel, angelica, thyme, cumin, aniseed, citronella and cinnamon leaf should also be avoided as they could
stimulate contractions.
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Percutaneous absorption of aromatic plant oils
Percutaneous absorption is the passage of substances into and through the skin.
•Adsorption – the use of aromatic oils with clays.
•Absorption – the invasion of the aromatic oils into various layers of the skin.
Possible pathways for aromatic oils include;
•Oils can pass down the hair follicles.
•Oils can diffuse through lipid bilayers of stratum corneum.
Applying aromatic oils to beauty treatments.
When choosing aromatic plant oils, carrier oils, additives and mediums to blend for use in beauty treatments, you need
to consider specific client requirements and match these to the products chosen. Client requirements may include;
•Client’s treatment requirements.
•Any contraindications the client has and how they would affect the materials used.
•Client’s preferences to different aromas.
•The properties of the oils considered for use.
•Appropriate ratios.
•Carrier oil characteristics.
•The use of any additives and other mediums.
Treatments and services that can include the use of aromatic plant oil blends are;
•Manicure and pedicare services.
•Facials.
•Body massage.
•Spa treatments.
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Citrus Oils
Brief descriptions of the aromatic properties of some of the citrus oils.
Sweet Orange Essential Oil (Citrus sinensis) often referred to as Orange Essential Oil or
Orange Oil, is amongst the most inexpensive of all essential oils. Orange Essential Oil
aromatically blends well with other citruses and most other essential oil types including floral,
spice and mint oils.
Lime Essential Oil (Citrus aurantifolia) with the exception of floral Neroli
essential oil, cold pressed Lime Essential Oil is the most aromatically potent of the
fruity citrus oils.
Lemon Essential Oil (Citrus limon) has a powerfully fresh traditional lemon
fragrance that is quite energising and uplifting. Limonene is the naturally occurring
chemical constituent within Lemon Essential Oil that gives it its distinctive lemony
aroma.
Neroli Essential Oil (Citrus aurantium) is steam distilled from the fragrant
blossoms of the orange tree. Neroli Essential Oil is intensely floral, citrusy, sweet and
exotic and is most often categorised as a floral essential oil instead of as a citrus. It is
highly concentrated and is amongst the more rare and costly of essential oils.
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Safety concerns for citrus oil
Citrus oil phototoxicity.
Many of the citrus oils are phototoxic. Phototoxicity is the process in which particular compounds can become toxic
when exposed to sunlight. When exposed to sunlight, the naturally occurring chemical constituents found in some
citrus essential oils become phototoxic. Bergamot, Bitter Orange, Lemon and Lime are amongst the citrus oils that are
generally regarded to be highly phototoxic. Neroli and Petitgrain essential oils are not phototoxic.
The phototoxicity of citrus essential oils is not of concern when diffusing them or when using them for room fragrance.
The concern comes when incorporating these phototoxic oils in topical blends and skin formulations that are applied to
the skin. When using any skin care products that include phototoxic essential oils, avoid exposure to the sun for at
least 24 hours.
Choose organic citrus essential oils.
Non-organic citrus fruits are typically sprayed heavily with pesticides. Because of the cold pressed methods used to
extract citrus oils, the resulting essential oils can contain trace amounts of pesticides. Whenever possible, purchase
organic citrus essential oils. This becomes especially important when using citrus oils in topical applications or when
frequently diffusing citrus essential oils.
Ingesting essential oils is not recommended.
Although the food industries do use citrus oils to flavour particular foods and beverages, do not ingest essential oils
without first becoming familiar with essential oil safety. Essential oils are best treated like medicines and can be toxic
or fatal if misused.
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Some of the plant families
Abietaceae and Annonaceae plants.
The family of Abietaceae and Annonaceae are plants that belong to the conifer class. These
aromatic plants are also extracted into essential oils that are used to cure respiratory conditions.
They have antiseptic properties which protect the skin from germs. The plants belonging to this
family are relatively small in size – Cedarwood, Ylang Ylang.
Ylang Ylang
Apiaceae plants.
The aromatic plants belonging to the Apiaceae family are equipped with flower heads that appear
as umbrellas. Essential oils extracted are rich in either phenolic ethers or ketones, which can be
potentially hazardous. Most of these plants contain uterine stimulant properties, but can activate
its abortive properties without properly following instructions in terms of usage. These plants
contain seed oils which are beneficial in creating a balance in your digestive functions. Those
aromatic plants belonging to this family are – Dill, Fennel, Coriander.
Fennel
Asteraceae plants.
These are characterised by having daisy-like flower heads made up of small flowers as opposed to
having petals. Some of the most beneficial properties of these aromatic plants are excellent for
the skin with their anti-inflammatory and anti-septic qualities. Aromatic plants belonging to this
family that are commonly used in aromatherapy are - German chamomile, Roman chamomile,
Moroccan chamomile and Helichrysum.
German chamomile
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Some of the plant families
Burseraceae and Cupressaceae plants.
The aromatic plants of both these families produce effective treatment against
respiratory ailments, such as bronchitis and coughs. These properties may be obtained
through inhalation. In addition, these plants also contain properties that help speed up
the healing process of wounds and ulcers, while reducing the possibility of developing
scar tissue.
Cupressaceae plants are rich in medicinal properties that assist in eliminating the
appearance of cellulite. These plants also effectively combat stress, nervous tension and
insomnia. Some of the aromatic plants belonging to both of these plant families are –
Frankincense, Cypress, Juniper berry.
Frankincense
Lamiaceae Plant.
Most of the plants that are used in aromatherapy belong to this specific family. The
essential oils from these aromatic plants are extracted through the leaves since these
volatile oils are normally stored on the surface. These plants are chemically complex, as
they contain a combination of aldehydes and alcohol. These aromatic plants contain
therapeutic properties that cure headaches, provide relief for muscular pain and relieve
nasal congestion. Some of the plants that are commonly used in aromatherapy are –
Patchouli, Lavender, Peppermint, Rosemary, Sweet marjoram, Sage, Basil and Clary sage.
Lavender
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Some of the plant families
Lauraceae plants.
The Leuraceae plants contain rich amounts of therapeutic properties that provide a wide
range of health benefits. These aromatic plants include Rosewood, Cinnamon and Litsea that
contain anti-fungal, bactericidal, stimulant, tonic and anti-viral properties.
Cinnamon
Myrataceae plants.
The plants that belong to the Myrataceae family are especially useful in treating respiratory
conditions. They contain the presence of various therapeutic properties such as tonic,
stimulant and antiseptic properties. Essential oils belonging to this family include – Clove, Tea
tree and Eucalyptus.
Poaceae and Rutaceae plants.
Clove
The essential oils extracted from Poaceae plants are used for pain relief or to improve blood
circulation. They also contain properties that make it effective in curing acne problems. On the
other hand, Rutaceae aromatic plants contain citrus with most of the plant’s essential oil
being extracted from the peel of the fruit. Some of the aromatic plants belonging to this
family, often used in aromatherapy are – Citronella, Palmarosa, Neroli, Petitgrain, Lemon,
Mandarin, Bergamot, Orange sweet, Orange bitter and Grapefruit.
Citronella
Zingiberaceae plants.
The ginger family is a family of flowering plants consisting of aromatic perennial herbs with
creeping horizontal or tuberous rhizomes with more than 1300 species distributed throughout
tropical Africa, Asia and the Americas.
Ginger
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Botanical name:
Family:
Native to:
Growth:
Extraction methods:
Effects:
Aroma:
Combines well with:
Properties:
Chemical constituents:
Uses:
Safety information:
Profile: Basil – leaf and root oil
Ocimum basilicum
Lamiaceas
Far East with many species found in different countries. Ocimum basilicum is European
basil sometimes called ‘sweet basil’ grown in France, Italy and Eastern Europe.
Vigorous annual, up to 60cm, has four sided stems and oval shaped leaves that become
more aromatic in hot temperatures and bright sunlight
Steam distillation of the leaves and stalks yields a colourless essential oil, which lasts for
up to two years in the refrigerator or one year at temperatures above 12°C
Uplifting and stimulating
Top note – penetrating, green, warm spicy aroma. Becomes sweeter and softer as it
evaporates
Citrus oils, Frankincense, Geranium
Analgesic, Antidepressant, Antiseptic, Antispasmodic, Uplifting
Linalol, Borneone, Methylchavicol, Camphor, Cineole, Citronella, Eugenol, Ocimene,
Pinene, Limonene, Sylvestrene (Terpenes)
Bronchitis, Colds, Constipation, Insect Bites, Mental Fatigue, Migraine, Nervous Tension,
Rheumatism, Sinus Congestion, Digestive tonic, Insect repellent
May cause irritation to sensitive skin. Use well diluted. Not to be used during pregnancy
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Botanical name:
Family:
Native to:
Growth:
Extraction methods:
Effects:
Aroma:
Combines well with:
Properties:
Chemical constituents:
Uses:
Safety information:
Profile: Rosemary – leaf and root oil
Rosmarinus officinalis
Lamiaceae
Southern Mediterranean; Spain, France and North Africa
A woody shrub up to 2m with slender green leaves full of essential sacs. Different rosemary
varieties produce blue, pale blue or white flowers
Steam distillation of rosemary leaves yields a colourless essential oil which lasts up to two
years in the refrigerator and up to one year at temperatures above 12°C
Refreshing, stimulating
Middle note, refreshing, woody, herbal
Cedarwood, Geranium, Juniper
Analgesic, antidepressant, antirheumatic, antiseptic, antispasmodic, aecongestant, aiuretic,
atimulant
Borneol, Camphene, Camphor, Cineol, Lineol, Pinene, Terpineol
Burns, cellulite, colds, digestive problems, fatigue, flu, gout, liver and gallbladder problems,
oily skin, poor circulation, rheumatism, water retention ,wounds
Rosemary has antispasmodic properties and should not be used during pregnancy or if
there is a condition of high blood pressure or epilepsy.
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Botanical name:
Family:
Native to:
Growth:
Extraction methods:
Effects:
Aroma:
Combines well with:
Properties:
Chemical constituents:
Uses:
Safety information:
Profile: Patchouli – leaf and root oil
Pogostemon cablin
Lamiaceae
Tropical Asia; Indonesia, India, the Philippines, Malaysia and China
A perennial herb up to 1m with large, velvety dark green leaves. Tiny hair-like projections on
the leaf surface produce the essential oil
Steam distillation of the partially dried leaves yields a deep yellow, thick, sticky essential oil
which lasts up to two years in the refrigerator and up to one year at temperature 12°C
Relaxing
Base note, sweet, spicy, woody
Geranium, Lavender, Neroli
Antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, astringent, diuretic, sedative
Patchoulil, Pogostol, Bulnesol, Nor Patchoulenol, Bulnese, Patchoulene
Anxiety, cellulite, chapped/cracked skin, depression, eczema, PMS symptoms, scar tissue,
water retention
Non toxic, non irritating and non sensitising
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Botanical name:
Family:
Native to:
Growth:
Extraction methods:
Effects:
Aroma:
Combines well with:
Properties:
Chemical constituents:
Uses:
Safety information:
Profile: Tea Tree – leaf and root oil
Melaleuca alternifolia
Myrtaceae
Australia
A small tree or shrub up to 6m with narrow aromatic leaves and yellowish purple flowers
Steam distillation of the leaves and twigs yields a very pale yellow essential oil. Tea tree oil
degrades quickly and should be kept in the refrigerator where it will last up to one year and
six months at temperature 12°C
Cleansing, refreshing
Top note, fresh, medicinal
Best to use on its own
Antibiotic, antifungal, antiseptic, antiviral, detoxifying, insecticide, stimulant
Terpinenol (Alcohol), Cineole (Ketone), Cymene, Pinene, Terpinene (Terpenes)
Age spots, athlete's foot, boils, burns, catarrh, colds, corns, cystitis, dandruff, fungal
infections, immune system booster, itching from insect bites, sunburn, urinary tract
infections, warts
May irritate sensitive skin so use half the stated drops in the same amount of carrier oil on
sensitive skin
Prepare personalised aromatic plant oil blends for beauty treatments
43
Botanical name:
Family:
Native to:
Growth:
Profile: Roman Chamomile – flower oil
Anthemis nobilils
Asteraceae
Western Europe; United Kingdom, France and Hungaray
Grows up to 30cm with feathery green foliage with round white flowers on single stems
Extraction methods:
Steam distillation of the flowers and stalks yields a very pale blue or greenish blue essential
oil. The colour comes from a blue constituent in the plant called azulene which has anti
inflammatory properties. Lasts up to two years in the refrigerator and up to one year at
temperature 12°C
Effects:
Soothing, relaxing
Aroma:
Middle note, sweet, herbal, fruity
Combines well with:
Bergamot, Geranium, Lavender
Properties:
Analgesic, antibacterial, antiseptic, digestive stimulant
Chemical constituents: Main constituents: Esters, Pinene, Fanesol, Nerolidol, Chamazulene, Pinocarvone, Cineol
Uses:
Acne, blisters, boils, colitis, depression, digestive problems, flatulence, gout, headaches,
indigestion, irritable bowel syndrome, neuralgia, nervous tension, rheumatism, skin
conditions (dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis)
Safety information:
Chamomile may cause skin irritation. Not to be used in early pregnancy.
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44
Profile: Ylang Ylang – flower oil
Botanical name:
Cananga odorata
Family:
Native to:
Annonaceae
Southeast Asia; Indonesia, the Philippines, Java, Madagascar and Reunion
Growth:
An evergreen tropical tree up to 20m with large fragrant yellow, pink or mauve flowers. The
yellow blooms are picked for distillation
Steam distillation of the yellow blooms being a slow process yielding an essential oil which is
almost clear with a slight yellow tinge. This essential oil is drawn off four times, giving four
grades of oil known as Extra, 1, 2 and 3. Ylang Ylang Extra is the best quality for aromatherapy.
The other grades are used in the perfume industry. Lasts up to two years in the refrigerator and
up to one year at temperature 12°C
Relaxing, stimulating
Base/Middle note, heavy, sweet, floral, exotic
Cedarwood, Clary Sage, Geranium
Extraction methods:
Effects:
Aroma:
Combines well with:
Properties:
Antidepressant, antiseptic, aphrodisiac, sedative
Chemical constituents: Main constituents: Methyl Benzoats, Methyl Salicylate, Linalyl Acetate, Cadinene,
Caryophyllene, Pinene, Cresol, Eugenol, Linalol and Geraniol
Uses:
Anxiety, high blood pressure, intestinal problems, sexual dysfunction, stress
Safety information:
Ylang Ylang may irritate sensitive skin. Do not use on inflammatory skin conditions and
dermatitis. Ylang Ylang has a strong aroma and may cause headaches.
Prepare personalised aromatic plant oil blends for beauty treatments
45
Botanical name:
Family:
Native to:
Growth:
Extraction methods:
Effects:
Aroma:
Combines well with:
Properties:
Chemical constituents:
Uses:
Safety information:
Profile: Neroli – flower oil
Citrus x aurantium var. amara
Rutaceae
France, Morocco, Tunisia and Italy
Grows up to 10m with glossy green leaves. Its flowers are creamy white and swell into oranges
with a wrinkled skin. The bitter orange flowers are picked two or three times a week at
sunrise to preserve their aroma
Steam distillation of the flowers yields a pale yellow essential oil and orange flower water.
Lasts up to two years in the refrigerator and up to one year at temperature 12°C
Relaxing
Top note, floral, refreshing
Chamomile, Lavender, Sandalwood
Antidepressant, antiseptic, aphrodisiac, sedative
Linalol, Linalyl acetate, Limonene, Pinene, Nerolidol, Geraniol, Nerol, Indole, Citral, Jasmone
Depression, digestive problems, dry or sensitive skin, flatulence, headaches, insomnia,
irritable bowel syndrome, nervous tension, panic attacks, stress
Neroli oil is non sensitising, non toxic and non irritating however it has antispasmodic
properties and should not be used during pregnancy.
Prepare personalised aromatic plant oil blends for beauty treatments
46
Profile: Clary sage – flower oil
Botanical name:
Salvia sclarea
Family:
Native to:
Growth:
Lamiaceae
Southern Europe; France, Morocco, USA and United Kingdom
Has talk stalks up to 1.2m with large pointed and hairy leaves at its base with pinkish blue
flowers. The whole plant is highly aromatic with a powerful musky fragrance
Steam distillation of flowers and stalks yields a pale yellow essential oil which lasts up to two
years in the refrigerator and up to one year at temperature 12°C
Warming
Top/Middle note, Sweet, Spicy, Herbal
Geranium, Lavender, Rose
Anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antispasmodic, sedative
Linalyl acetate, Linalol, Pionene, Myrcene, Sclareol, Phellandrene
Asthma, depression, digestive problems, exhaustion, muscle cramps and spasms, PMS relief,
respiratory problems
Non toxic, non sensitising and non irritating however do not use during pregnancy. Clary sage
is highly sedative - do not use before driving or other activities requiring a high level of focus
and concentration.
Extraction methods:
Effects:
Aroma:
Combines well with:
Properties:
Chemical constituents:
Uses:
Safety information:
Prepare personalised aromatic plant oil blends for beauty treatments
47
Botanical name:
Family:
Native to:
Growth:
Extraction methods:
Effects:
Aroma:
Combines well with:
Properties:
Chemical constituents:
Uses:
Safety information:
Profile: Juniper – fruit, berry and seed oil
Juniperus communis
Cupressaceae
Italy, Austria, Hungary, Serbia and Croatia
A prickly shrub with green berries which take up to two years to ripen to a black colour
where they contain the maximum essential oil
Steam distillation of ripe juniper berries yields a colourless essential oil. Ripe juniper berry
oil is the best quality. Oil from unripe berries and twigs has an inferior odour and lower
therapeutic effect. The oil will last up to two years in the refrigerator and up to one year at
temperature 12°C
Cleansing, refreshing
Middle note, fresh, woody, sweet
Frankincense, Lavender, Rose
Analgesic, astringent, diuretic, expectorant
Pinene, Myrcene, Borneol, Camphene, Thujene, Termenic alcohol
Acne, cellulite, cystitis, dermatitis, disinfectant, eczema (weeping), gout, muscle aches and
pains, rheumatism, sores and ulcers
Juniper berry essential oil has a powerful tonic effect on the uterus, so do not use during
pregnancy. Not recommended for highly allergy prone skin, those with severe kidney
disease. Otherwise it is non irritating and non toxic
Prepare personalised aromatic plant oil blends for beauty treatments
48
Botanical name:
Family:
Native to:
Growth:
Extraction methods:
Effects:
Aroma:
Combines well with:
Properties:
Chemical constituents:
Uses:
Safety information:
Profile: Black pepper – fruit, berry and seed oil
Piper nigrum
Piperaceae
India, Malaysia, Indonesia, Madagascar and China
A vigorous climbing plant with heart shaped dark green leaves that produces long clusters
of flowers which turn into tiny round fruit being the peppercorns
Steam distillation of dried crushed peppercorns yields a colourless essential oil which will
last up to two years in the refrigerator and up to one year at temperature 12°C
Stimulating
Middle note, warm, peppery
Lavender, Rosemary, Sandalwood
Diuretic, expectorant, stimulant
Eugenol, Myrisricin, Safrole (Phenol), Bisabolene, Camphene, Farnesene, Limonene,
Myrcene, Phellandrene, Pinene, Sabinene, Selinene. Thujene (Terpenes), Caryophyllene
Chilbains, colds, constipation, digestive problems, flatulence, heartburn, indigestion, loss of
appetite, muscle aches and pains, sinus congestion
Can have a reddening effect on the skin because it stimulates local circulation. May irritate
sensitive skin. Use well diluted. Avoid use during pregnancy
Prepare personalised aromatic plant oil blends for beauty treatments
49
Botanical name:
Family:
Native to:
Growth:
Extraction methods:
Effects:
Aroma:
Combines well with:
Properties:
Chemical constituents:
Uses:
Safety information:
Profile: Fennel – fruit, berry and seed oil
Foeniculum vulgare var. dulce
Umbelliferae
Spain, France, Hungary, Germany, Italy and Greece
A tall biennial herb growing up to 2m with stout stems and wide branches producing
finely branched, golden green leaves and large flat clusters of yellow flowers. Its
slightly curved seeds are grey green in colour
Steam distillation of fennel seeds yields a colourless essential oil which will last up to
two years in the refrigerator and up to one year at temperature 12°C
Clearing
Middle note, sweet, earthy
Lavender, Geranium, Sandalwood
Antiseptic, antispasmodic, diuretic, stimulant
Anethol, Anisic Acid, Anisic aldehyde, Pinene, Camphene, Estragol, Fenone,
Phellandrene
Digestive disorders, gout (combine with Juniper),nervous tension
Fennel oil should not be used during pregnancy or for babies. Do not use on epilepsy
suffers. May irritate sensitive skin. Do not exceed stated number of drop in a blend.
Prepare personalised aromatic plant oil blends for beauty treatments
50
Botanical name:
Profile: Myrrh – wood, resin and gum oil
Commiphora myrrha
Family:
Native to:
Burseraceae
Semi desert regions of Lybia, Somalia, Yenmen, Iran, Saudi Arabia and along the Red Sea
Growth:
A small tough, spiny tree up to 3m with long sharp thorns, small three lobed leaves and white
flowers. Cuts made into the bark encourage the bush to produce thick yellow gum, which dries
to an orange brown colour
Steam distillation of myrrh gum yields a pale yellow essential oil which will last up to two years
in the refrigerator and up to one year at temperature 12°C
Toning, rejuvenating
Middle note, warm, spicy (similar to musk)
Clove, Frankincense, Geranium
Analgesic, antiseptic, astringent, expectorant
Herabolene, Limone, Dipentene, Pinene, Eugenol
Arthritis, bronchitis, colds, coughs, digestive problems, mouth and gum problems, stimulates
immune system
Myrrh is non toxic, non irritant and non sensitising. It is a strong tonic to the uterus and should
not be used during pregnancy
Extraction methods:
Effects:
Aroma:
Combines well with:
Properties:
Chemical constituents:
Uses:
Safety information:
Prepare personalised aromatic plant oil blends for beauty treatments
51
Botanical name:
Family:
Native to:
Growth:
Extraction methods:
Effects:
Aroma:
Combines well with:
Properties:
Chemical constituents:
Uses:
Safety information:
Profile: Frankincense – wood, resin and gum oil
Boswellia carterii
Burseraceae
Africa and Middle East in rocky, dry areas of desert or mountains
Tree grows up to 10m tall. Cuts made into the bark causes its milky white or yellowish resin to
ooze out which hardens into drop like shapes called ‘tears’ which are ground up to use for
distillation of essential oil
Steam distillation of the ground resin yields a pale yellow essential oil which will last up to two
years in the refrigerator and up to one year at temperature 12°C
Uplifting, relaxing
Base/Middle note, sweet, warm
Lavender, Neroli, Rose
Analgesic, antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, expectorant
Cadinene (Sesquiterpene), Camphene, Dipentene, Pinene, Phellandrene (Terpenes), Olibanol
(Alcohol)
Asthma, bronchitis, colds, healing wounds, nervous tension, respiratory conditions, skin care
(mature/aging skin), uterine tonic (can be used for heavy periods and massage following
childbirth)
Frankincense is non toxic, non irritating and non sensitising
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52
Carrier oils
Carrier oils are used to dilute aromatic plant oils and aids transmission of the essential oil into the body. Carrier oils
are directly derived from the fatty part of a plant, mainly the seeds or the nuts of the plant. They are vegetable oils in
which aromatic plant oils easily dissolve. They are classified as lipids as they do not dissolve in water and are
composed of two chemically bonded components, a fatty acid and a glycerol.
Fatty acid molecules are made up of a hydrocarbon chain and a terminal carboxylic acid group. The hydrocarbon is
lipophilic and the carboxylic acid group is hydrophilic. Carrier oils for use in aromatic plant oil blends should be cold
pressed (no heat) to ensure that their beneficial fatty acids and other nutrients are not affected by the extraction
method. Carrier oils help the absorption of essential oils into the skin. An important property of carrier oils is that
they contain very little natural aroma and do not evaporate like some other essential oils.
Sweet almond oil
Evening primrose oil
Sesame oil
Safflower oil
Aloe vera oil
Grape seed oil
Walnut oil
Sunflower oil
A list of common carrier oils
Apricot kernel oil
Avocado oil
Hazelnut oil
Jojoba oil
Wheatgerm oil
Olive oil
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Calendula oil
Macadamia oil
Pumpkin seed oil
53
Profile: Grapeseed oil – carrier oil
Botanical name:
Family:
Texture:
Qualities:
Uses:
Shelf life:
Botanical name:
Family:
Texture:
Qualities:
Uses:
Shelf life:
Botanical name:
Family:
Texture:
Qualities:
Uses:
Shelf life:
Vitus Vinifera
Ampelidae
Thin, leaving a glossy film on the skin
Has a fine, light texture and is easily absorbed by the skin. It is mildly astringent making it useful
for acne and other skin complaints
A good basic carrier oil, which leaves the skin feeling smooth without being too greasy
6-12 months
Profile: Sweet Almond oil – carrier oil
Prunus amygdalus var. dulcis
Rosaceae
Leaves a slight oily feel on the skin. Absorbs semi-quickly
Obtained from dried kernels of the almond tree rich in vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, and E. Calms skin
irritations
A good all purpose carrier. An excellent massage oil due to its viscosity and durability
6-12 months
Profile: Evening Primrose oil – carrier oil
Oenothera biennis
Onagraceae
Exceptionally fine texture leaving a light trace of oil on the skin
Contains essential fatty acids primarily omega-6, EFAs linolenic acid and gamma linolenic acid
Excellent moisturising properties used with eczema and psoriasis. Good with PMS and
rheumatoid arthritis conditions
6 months
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54
Essential oil
Note
Aniseed
Middle
Basil
Top
Bergamot
Top
Black pepper
Middle
GUIDE FOR BLENDING OF ESSENTIAL OILS
Scent
Description of
Emotives
strength
scent
4
Warm, spicy-sweet Provides comfort for
withdrawn,
melancholic
personalities.
Refreshing pick-me-up
4
Light fresh, sweet- Renews enthusiasm.
herbal
Eases worries, give
clarity
3
Light fresh, sweet- Soothes, calms tension
fruity
and anxiety. Brings joy,
confidence and
motivation
3
Fresh, dry-wood,
spicy warm
Energising, gives
warmth and comfort
Blends well with
cedarwood, clove,
eucalyptus, ginger,
lavender, orange, pine,
rose
bergamot, black pepper,
clary sage, citronella,
geranium, lime
basil, german & roman
chamomile, cypress,
geranium, jasmine, juniper,
lavender, lemon, neroli,
rose
bergamot, cypress,
frankincense, lavender,
marjoram, pine, rosemary,
rosewood, sandalwood
The Oil Garden
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55
Essential oil
Note
Cedarwood
Base
German
chamomile
Middle
Roman
chamomile
Middle
Citronella
Top
GUIDE FOR BLENDING OF ESSENTIAL OILS
Scent
Description of scent
Emotives
strength
4
Mild, sweet-balsamic, Enhances spirituality,
woody
gives strength to face
fear and release
anger
4
Strong warmCalms bitterness,
herbaceous slightly
resentment,
sweet
frustration. Gives a
peaceful, relaxed
atmosphere
3
Sweet, warm, fruity- Promotes stillness
herbaceous
and inner peace.
Give stability to
relieve grief, worry
and stress
5
Powerful, refreshing
Uplifting and
lemony
refreshing. Can
relieve depression
Blends well with
bergamot, cypress, juniper,
lemon, lime, neroli,
patchouli, rose,
sandalwood, vetiver
bergamot, clary sage,
geranium, jasmine,
lavender, lemon, marjoram,
neroli, patchouli, rose,
ylang ylang
bergamot, clary sage,
geranium, jasmine,
lavender, lemon, neroli,
orange, rose
bergamot, cedarwood,
geranium, lemon, lime,
orange, pine, tea tree,
thyme
The Oil Garden
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Essential oil
Note
Clary sage
Middle
Clove bud
Middle
Cypress
Base
Eucalyptus
Top
GUIDE FOR BLENDING OF ESSENTIAL OILS
Scent
Description of
Emotives
strength
scent
3
Rich sweet floral
Stimulates creativity,
herbaceous with
intuition and
nutty and fruit
inspiration. Gives
overtone
balance and
grounding to scattered
thoughts
4
Penetrating sweet- Warms cold
spicy, fresh-fruity
dispositions. Energises
and invigorates
3
Tenacious smoky,
Give a sense of
sweet-balsamic
control, direction and
being slightly spicy will power. Brings
and refreshing
comfort during grief
4
Camphoraceous,
sweet woody
undertone
Blends well with
bergamot, cedarwood,
frankincense, geranium,
jasmine, juniper, lavender,
orange, pine sandalwood
basil, bergamot, clary sage,
ginger, lavender, ylang,
ylang
bergamot, cedarwood,
clary sage, juniper,
lavender, lemon, mandarin,
marjoram, orange, pine,
sandalwood
Centres scattered and aniseed, basil, cedarwood,
irrational thoughts.
ginger, lemon, marjoram,
Balancing, energising pine, rosemary, thyme
and revitalising
The Oil Garden
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Essential oil
Fennel
Note
Top
Frankincense Base
Geranium
Middle
Ginger
Middle
GUIDE FOR BLENDING OF ESSENTIAL OILS
Scent
Description of
Emotives
strength
scent
4
Sweet slightly
Promotes assertiveness,
earthy peppery,
perseverance and confidence.
similar to aniseed Gives clarity and
enlightenment
3
Fresh warm slightly Brings fortitude, courage and
spicy with rich
acceptance. Enlightening,
sweet-balsamic
elevating and comforting
undertone
5
Rich sweet rosy
Balancing and comforting.
with slight minty
Promotes reassurance,
overtone
security and flexibility to
discontented dispositions
3
Fresh spicy warm
and woody
Gives warmth, strength and
courage to cold dispositions.
Enhances motivation and
direction
Blends well with
basil, geranium, grapefruit,
lavender, rose, sandalwood
basil, bergamot, black
pepper, geranium, jasmine,
lavender, neroil, orange,
pine, sandalwood, vetiver
bergamot, clove, grapefruit,
jasmine, juniper, lavender,
lemon, neroli, palmarosa,
patchouli, rose, sandalwood
cedarwood, frankincense,
lemon, lime, neroli, orange,
patchouli, rose, rosewood,
sandalwood, tea tree,
vetiver
The Oil Garden
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58
Essential oil
Note
Grapefruit
Top
Scent
strength
2
Jasmine
Base
Juniper
berry
Lavender
GUIDE FOR BLENDING OF ESSENTIAL OILS
Description of scent
Emotives
Blends well with
Sweet refreshing
citrus
Promotes spontaneity,
confidence and
inspiration. Uplifts and
refreshes
basil, bergamot, cypress,
fennel, geranium, ginger,
lavender, lemon, lime,
neroli, palmarosa, rosemary
3
Intense, rich, warm,
floral
Sensual and euphoric.
Creates a relaxed
optimistic, inspirational
atmosphere
bergamot, clary sage,
frankincense, mandarin,
neroli, rose, sandalwood
Middle
4
Sweet, fresh, woody Enhances spirituality and
meditative state.
Underlines self-worth,
vitality and peace
bergamot, cedarwood, clary
sage, cypress, fennel,
geranium, lemon, rosemary,
sandalwood, vertiver
Middle
4
Sweet, floralherbaceous with
woody undertone
bergamot, citronella, clary
sage, geranium, jasmine,
lemon, mandarin,
palmarosa, patchouli,
thyme, ylang ylang
For relaxation, inner peace
and harmony. Gentle,
compassionate, brings
clarity, acceptance and
balance
The Oil Garden
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59
Essential oil
Note
GUIDE FOR BLENDING OF ESSENTIAL OILS
Description of scent
Emotives
Scent
strength
3
Light fresh slightly sweet
citrus
Lemon
Top
Lemongrass
Top
5
Sharp refreshing slightly
herbaceous with earthy
undertone
Lime
Top
3
Sweet fresh fruity citrus
Mandarin
Top
3
Intense sweet, almost
floral citrus
Uplifts and refreshes
the spirit giving
clarity, direction and
motivation
Revitalising and
reviving, gives an
energetic and
refreshing
atmosphere
Enlivens and
energises, creates a
refreshing outlook
Serene and tranquil,
promotes inspiration
and openness
Blends well with
bergamot, german and
roman chamomile,
eucalyptus, fennel,
geranium, ginger, juniper,
lavender, neroli, rose,
sandalwood, ylang ylang
basil, bergamot,
cedarwood, lavender,
lemon, palmarosa,
petitgrain, pine, tea tree
cedarwood, citronella, clary
sage, clove, geranium,
lemon, lavender, neroli,
orange, rosemary, vetiver
bergamot, clove ginger,
grapefruit, lemon, lime,
marjoram, neroli, orange,
rose, sandalwood
The Oil Garden
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60
Essential oil
Note
GUIDE FOR BLENDING OF ESSENTIAL OILS
Description of scent
Emotives
Scent
strength
4
Warm woody spicy with a
camphoreous top note
Marjoram
Middle
Creates an ambience
of calmness,
perseverance and
confidence
Myrrh
Base
3
Rich warm sweet balsamic Aids meditation to
slightly spicy
enhance spirituality
Neroli
Top
3
Intense but light sweet
floral
Gives support and
guidance, joy,
calmness and
peacefulness
Orange
Top
3
Sweet refreshing fruity
Gives confidence,
courage and
creativity
Blends well with
bergamot, cedarwood,
german and roman
chamomile, cypress,
eucalyptus, lavender,
rosemary, tea tree
clove, cypress,
frankincense, geranium,
ginger, lavender, mandarin,
patchouli, peppermint,
pine, sandalwood, thyme
bergamot german and
roman chamomile, clary
sage, geranium, jasmine,
lavender, lemon, lime, rose,
sandalwood, ylang ylang
bergamot, clary sage, clove,
ginger, lavender, lemon,
neroli, myrrh, ylang ylang
The Oil Garden
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Essential oil
Note
GUIDE FOR BLENDING OF ESSENTIAL OILS
Scent
Description of scent
Emotives
strength
3
Sweet, floral rosy
Relaxation without
sedating, uplifts and
balances the spirit
Blends well with
Palmarosa
Middle
Patchouli
Base
5
Powerful sweet earthy
slightly herbaceous
Invigorates and
soothes the senses,
gives direction,
assurance and
persistence
cedarwood, citronella,
clove, geranium, jasmine,
orange, rose, rosewood,
sandalwood
bergamot, cedarwood, clary
sage, clove, geranium,
ginger, myrrh, neroli, rose,
rosewood, sandalwood,
vetiver, ylang ylang
Peppermint
Middle
5
Penetrating refreshing
minty camphoraceous
Gives clarity to
cloudiness, revives
and refreshes
basil, cypress, eucalyptus,
lavender, lemon, marjoram,
rosemary, spearmint
Petitgrain
Top
3
Fresh, floral citrus
slightly woody herbal
undertone
Reduces disharmony,
calms and refreshes
giving an optimistic
and confident
atmosphere
bergamot, clary sage, clove,
geranium, ginger, jasmine,
lavender, neroli, orange,
palmarosa, rosemary
The Oil Garden
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Essential oil
Note
GUIDE FOR BLENDING OF ESSENTIAL OILS
Scent
Description of scent
Emotives
strength
4
Powerful dry
Promotes acceptance,
balsamic slightly
worthiness,
herbaceous
understanding.
Cleansing and
exhilarating
3
Rich, deep, sweet
Revives and fulfils the
floral slightly spicy
soul. Gives sense of
freedom, confidence
and vitality
Pine needle
Middle
Rose
Base
Rose geranium
Middle
5
Rich warm sweet
floral with hint of
citrus
Rosemary
Middle
4
Strong, penetrating
fresh minty herbal
Refreshing and
calming promoting
relaxation and inner
contentment
Purifying and
uplifting, enhances
creativity and focus.
Gives awareness and
sincerity
Blends well with
cedarwood, clove, cypress,
eucalyptus, juniper,
lavender, lemon, marjoram,
rosemary, tea tree, thyme
bergamot, german and
roman chamomile, clary
sage, geranium. Jasmine,
neroli, patchouli,
sandalwood
bergamot, clove, cypress,
frankincense, ginger, lemon,
rose, rosewood, sandalwood
basil, cedarwood, citronella,
clover, ginger, lavender, lime,
neroli, orange, peppermint,
petitgrain, pine, thyme
The Oil Garden
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Essential oil
Note
GUIDE FOR BLENDING OF ESSENTIAL OILS
Scent
Description of scent
Emotives
strength
3
Sweet, woody floral
Balances, calms,
with a hint of spice
uplifting. Gives a
sense of worth
Rosewood
Top
Sandalwood
Base
3
Deep tenacious soft,
sweet woody
balsamaic
Australian
sandalwood
Base
3
Smooth, soft with
lingering sweet
balsamic
Spearmint
Middle
3
Warm fresh herbal
minty with hint of
spice
Blends well with
bergamot, cedarwood,
clove, frankincense,
geranium, lavender,
mandarin, orange, rose,
sandalwood, vetiver
Creates sensual,
bergamot, black pepper,
serene ambiance.
clove, geranium, jasmine,
Gives enlightenment, lavender, myrrh, patchouli,
inner wisdom and
rose, rosewood, vetiver
meditation
Creates atmosphere bergamot, clove,
free of fear and
frankincense, geranium,
confusion. Warming, ginger, lavender, lemon,
encourages
orange, vetiver
understanding
Gentle uplifting and aniseed, basil, cedarwood,
enlivening, refreshes eucalyptus, grapefruit,
promotes vitality and jasmine, lavender, lemon,
harmony
lime, peppermint, rosemary
The Oil Garden
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Essential oil
Note
GUIDE FOR BLENDING OF ESSENTIAL OILS
Description of scent
Emotives
Scent
strength
4
Warm fresh
camphoraceous
Tea tree
Top
Thyme
Top
6
Powerful penetrating
warm spicy herbal
Vetiver
Base
6
Ylang ylang
Base
6
Deep intense smoky
earthy wood with
lingering sweet
undertone
Intense sweet floral
balsamic with hint of
spice
Cleansing and
purifying, promotes
openness and
direction
Gives sense of
tolerance and
support, focuses and
clarifies cloudiness.
Gives warming and
empowering
atmosphere
Spiritually grounding,
encourages calmness,
strength and integrity
Blends well with
clary sage, clove, geranium,
ginger, juniper, lavender,
marjoram, pine, rosemary
bergamot, lavender, lemon,
marjoram, pine, rosemary
clay sage, clove, jasmine,
lavender, patchouli, rose,
sandalwood, ylang ylang
Promotes sensual,
bergamot, frankincense,
meditative soothing jasmine, geranium, lemon,
ambiance. Self
rose, rosewood, vetiver
confident and
enthusiastic in nature
The Oil Garden
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Blending the essential oils
Blend the essential oils in a glass container as glass is highly resistant to the corrective action of essential oils. To
prevent your nose from becoming saturated with too many scents blend in an area that is free from other odours.
Smelling a blank piece of paper will also help to clear your nose. The key to a good blend is the balance of the essential
oils, however this is highly subjective as personal tastes differ dramatically. To achieve a good balance is to have no one
essential oil dominating the blend. They should merge harmoniously and create a fragrance all of its own.
Steps in creating a blend incorporating a carrier oil.
1. Add the appropriate amount of carrier oil into the bottle.
2. Starting with the base note, followed by the middle and top notes, add half of the required number of drops for
each essential oil being used to create the blend.
3. Place the lid on the bottle, gently mix the blend then remove lid to smell the mix.
4. Add more drops of each essential oil as required.
5. Replace lid, wait a few seconds allowing the blend to settle before opening it to smell the final mix.
6. Label the bottle immediately noting the amounts of carrier oil and the number of drops per essential oil.
Add in carrier oil
Add in essential oils
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Mix well
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Blending using creme or lotion
•Place half the amount of the creme or lotion into a bowl.
•Starting with the base note, followed by middle and top note, add half the number of drops of each essential oil to
the creme.
•Use a spatula to gently mix the ingredients. Smell the result.
•Add more drops of each essential oil as required, gently mixing as you go.
•Smell the result and add the balance of the creme or lotion.
•Make notes on the amount of creme or lotion used and the number of drops per essential oil.
•This blend must be used immediately to prevent deterioration. Discard any blend that is not used according to salon
environmental policies. Do not store this blend.
Labelling aromatherapy blends in glass bottles.
Once you have created your bottled blend you must label it for safety reasons. By labelling the blend you can make
different blends for different purposes and not continually use the same blend for all your treatments. The aroma of
the blend will change over time as the essential oils settle and combine together.
The label should contain;
•The essential oils used and amount of drops for each oil.
•The carrier oil and the quantity used.
•The date the blend was made and what treatment it was used for.
•Any precautions for use of the blend. For example – pregnancy.
Treatments and services that can include the use of aromatic plant oil blends are;
Manicure and pedicare services, facials, body massages, aromatherapy massage, spa treatments and foot/hand bath
treatments.
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Preparing for the treatment
•Ensure that the service area is clean and well organised.
•Conduct client consultation and complete client card.
•Mix the blend according to treatment and client’s emotive condition.
•Conduct patch test if unsure of client’s sensitivities.
•Maintain client’s privacy by leaving the room to allow the client to undress, depends on the treatment being provided.
•Adjust the lighting according to treatment requirements.
•Adjust the temperature of the room according to client’s comfort.
After treatment.
Some clients may want to take home the unused oil blend that you created for their treatment. This is acceptable
however as a therapist you cannot mix blends and offer them for retail sales as this is against TGA (Therapeutic Goods
Act) regulations. Home care advice can include; relaxation strategies to reduce stress, increased exercise and eating
healthy foods.
General safety information.
Do not take any oils internally. Do not apply undiluted essential oils, absolutes, CO2 or other concentrated essences
onto the skin. Conditions such as pregnancy, epilepsy, liver damage, cancer or any other medical problem require
proper guidance. Use extreme caution when using oils with children and give children only the gentlest oils at extremely
low doses.
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Skin conditions
Allergies:
Suggested oils for specific conditions.
•Acne - Cajeput, Lavender, Tea tree.
•Ageing skin - Frankincense, Neroli, Rose.
•Cellulite - Geranium, Lemon, Juniper.
•Combination skin - Chamomile, Lavender. Ylang Ylang.
•Dry skin - Lavender, Rose, Sandalwood.
•Eczema - Chamomile, Lavender, Rose.
•Oily skin - Cedarwood, Lemon, Rosemary.
•Mature skin - Frankincense, Geranium, Rose.
•Psoriasis - Bergamot, Cedarwood, Geranium.
•Sensitive skin - Chamomile, Lavender, Rose.
•Wrinkles - Frankincense, Neroli.
•Varicose veins - Cypress, Myrrh.
•Sunburn - Chamomile. Lavender.
•Warts - Lemon, Patchouli, Tea tree.
•Stress - Chamomile, Lavender, Sandalwood.
•Scarring - Lavender, Neroli.
•Stretch marks - Lavender, Neroli.
Arthritis:
Fungal
infection:
Boils:
Bruises:
Burns:
Aromatic oils for general conditions
Blue Tansy (Tanecetum annuum), Amni
Visnaga, German and Roman Chamomile,
Helichrysum Lavender, Yarrow
Lavandin, Helichrysum, Black Pepper, Ginger,
Marjoram, Lavender, Lemon, Nutmeg,
Rosemary, Cajeput, Cinnamon, Clove Bud,
Eucalyptus, Angelica Seed, Roman
Chamomile, Holy Basil, Clove Bud, Cypress
Tips, Balsam Fir, Juniper, Nutmeg, Dalmatian
Sage, Winter Savory, Seaweed, Thyme
Borneol, Wintergreen, St. John's Wort oil as
a carrier oil.
Myrrh, Patchouli, Lemongrass, Niaouli,
Palma Rosa, Tagetes, Tea Tree
Bergamot, Lavender, Lemon, Tea Tree,
Thyme, Juniper, Geranium (in hot
compresses)
Helichrysum, Black Pepper, German
Chamomile, Hyssop, Fennel, Spike Lavender,
Lemon, Rosemary
Lavender, Helichrysum, Carrot Seed,
Frankincense, Manuka, Neroli, Tea tree
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Cramps, Muscle Spasms:
Chronic fatigue:
Headaches:
Hot flushes:
Inflammation:
Insect bites:
Insomnia:
Menopause:
Menstrual cramps:
PMS:
Rheumatism:
Aromatic oils for general conditions
Lavender, Chamomiles, Tea Tree for disinfecting, Helichrysum
Sweet Basil, Rosemary, Geranium, Lemon, Pink Grapefruit
Lavender, Sweet Basil, Roman Chamomile, Clove Bud, Lavandin, Cajeput, Clary Sage,
Eucalyptus, Marjoram, Peppermint, Rosewood, Rosemary, Thyme
Vitex, Peppermint Hydrosol
Helichrysum, Roman or German Chamomile, Coriander, Juniper, Fennel, Nutmeg,
Yarrow
Cajeput), Helichrysum, German Chamomile, Lavender
Red Mandarine, Bulgarian Lavender, Roman Chamomile, Clementine Petitgrain,
Bergamot, Ledum, Myrtle, Petitgrain, Sandalwood, Spikenard,Valeria
Clary Sage, Geranium, Rose, Vitex, Bergamot, Chamomile, Cypress, Fennel, Jasmine,
Neroli, Ylang Ylang
Clary Sage, Sweet Marjoram, Geranium, Sweet Fennel, Anise Seed, Sweet Basil, Roman
Chamomile, Clary Sage, Cypress Needle, Yarrow
Geranium, Clary Sage, Rose, Sweet Fennel, Bergamot, Chamomile, Juniper Berry,
Lavender, Neroli, Rosemary, Sweet Fennel, Palma Rosa, Rose Otto, Vitex, Ylang Ylang
Extra
St. John's Wort Oil, Black Pepper, Ginger, Helichrysum, Lavender, Lavandin
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CREATING AN OIL BLEND
Therapists name:
Treatment being conducted:
Date:
Emotive condition being treated:
Circle base used:
Carrier oil
Cream
Lotion
Essential oil 1:
Number of drops:
Essential oil 2:
Number of drops:
Essential oil 3:
Number of drops:
Half strength first mix formula:
Adjustment made to formula – final blend:
Comments:
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Storage and handling
•Light - oils that are exposed to light will deteriorate faster than those stored away from the light. This includes artificial
lights. Oils should be stored in secure areas without exposure to light.
•Heat - this will affect the composition of the oil, some faster than others. Some oils solidify if stored in refrigerators. If
this occurs the oil should be left at room temperature to liquefy. Do not use artificial heat to liquefy the oil.
•Air - when oils are exposed to air they oxidise. Oxidation is a chemical reaction which alters the composition of the oil.
This can occur if a small amount of oil is left in the bottle. The container should have a screw top lid with a stopper to
prevent air from entering the oil.
•Containers - the amount of oil you order from the manufacturer determines the container it arrives in. Metal
containers give the best protection while amber glass will provide the next best protection. Oils should never be stored
in clear glass or plastic containers as the plastic absorbs the oil constituents.
•Handling - never use or place aromatic oils near a naked flame. Oil spillages should be cleared up with a paper towel
and disposed of according to environmental standards.
•Disposing of oils - if the aroma of the oil becomes sour or rancid or there is a cloudiness in the bottle then the oil
should not be used. It is safe to dispose of the old oil into the drainage system with the glass bottle being rinsed and
included in glass recycling. Always follow environmental legislation policies for disposal of old oils.
After treatment advice.
Depending on the service provided some clients may experience extreme erythema, nausea, headaches or dizziness.
These effects are only temporary. Recommend to your client that they increase their water intake. Client future
treatment plans would involve a series of services that would use blended oils for the treatment of specific conditions.
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Sustainability
Sustainability is the ability to maintain a certain status or process in existing systems. The most frequent use of the term
sustainability, is connected to biological or human systems in the context of ecology. The ability of an ecosystem to
function and maintain productivity for a prolonged period is also sustainability.
Sustainability in general refers to the property of being sustainable. The widely accepted definition of sustainability or
sustainable development was given by World Commission on Environment and Development in 1987. It defined
sustainable development as "forms of progress that meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of
future generations to meet their needs.“
Practically, sustainability refers to three broad themes, economic, social and environmental, that must all be
coordinated and addressed to ensure the long term viability of a community and the planet.
The primary goal of sustainable is using renewable natural resources in a manner that does not eliminate or degrade
them or otherwise diminish their usefulness for future generations.
Sustainable work practices;
•Safe disposal of all waste materials to minimise negative impact on the environment.
•Efficient use of energy, water and other resources used to minimise negative impact on the environment.
•Ensuring the practice of waste minimisation and recycling is conducted to reduce impact on the environment.
•Comparing availability of products, equipment and services and adjusting their use to minimise negative impact on the
environment.
This completes the learning material for this unit.
Authors copyright is claimed in all forms of media. Moral rights are claimed in all forms of media. Intellectual property rights are asserted and maintained in all forms of media.
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