From East To West
A journey of Chinese Cuisine
Food plays a very important role for the Chinese in their social relationships and it
is deeply rooted in their tradition.
When speaking of Chinese culture, it is impossible not to mention its thousand-year
culinary tradition, which enjoys international fame equal to that of the Italians.
Given the geographical vastness of China, each region differentiates itself by its own
culinary culture, making it difficult to correlate Chinese cuisine with any given
province, thereby resulting in a potpourri of ethnicity, usage and customs.
Traditionally there are four major schools of Chinese cuisine: Shandong, Guandong,
Jiangsu and the oldest, Sichuan.
Regardless of differences, all schools share a basic principle that unites them: dishes
are divided by food characterized as yin (yīn 阴), among which that originating in
the tropics, some dairy products, sweeteners and caffeine; as yang (yǎng 阳), for
example red and white meat, some fish and eggs; or as both yin and yang, including
mollusks, crustaceans, other fish, legumes and cereals, fruits, vegetables and
condiments.
Every meal must bring together contrasting flavors, reaching an equilibrium
between the food elements. Different dishes are prepared according to seasonal
availability making them beneficial to both our physical and spiritual well-being,
the latter of which is based upon a perfect harmony between yin and yang.
As to food preparation, cooking techniques differ: from boiling to frying, from
steaming to roasting and sautéing, translated respectively as zhu (zhǔ 煮), zha (zhá
炸), zheng (zhēng 蒸), kao (kǎo 烤) and chao (chǎo炒).
Food is usually cut into very small pieces so that it can be picked up by chopsticks
(kuaizi; kuàizi 筷子).
These can be made of different material (wood, bamboo, jade or metal) and can also
be used in the kitchen as utensils. Culinary ethics dictate that chopsticks may not be
planted vertically in a dish, as this represents an omen of death. Other culinary
etiquette stipulates that dishes are chosen by group decision and placed at the
center of the table so that everyone can help themselves. During the meal several
toasts are made especially in honor of the guests. In addition, it is considered good
manners to pay for the lunch or dinner when one has made an invitation.
Credit must be given to the Chinese for their ability in commercializing their
cuisine in the West, which has gotten to know dishes of the Chinese kitchen
through restaurants in their own country, even if certain delicatessens can only be
tasted in the Middle Kingdom. We can therefore ask ourselves: “Is it possible to
find a true example of Chinese cuisine here in Italy?”
We interviewed two Chinese restaurant owners in the city of Pavia concerning the
differences between traditional Chinese cuisine in China and that which is offered
here in Italy. From their responses we understand that with respect to twenty years
ago, the differences between the two have greatly diminished. Italians today are
much more open to the great differences between Italian and Chinese cuisine and
are much more curious to try new flavors. Because of this, Chinese restaurants, to
the best of their ability and with products they have at their disposition, try to
produce dishes that replicate the original without being limited by Italian tradition
and habits.
Most necessary ingredients are easily found, whereas some specific products, such
as spices, can only be found in Chinese stores, which import them and consequently
introduce in Italy flavors that are very faithful to Chinese culture.
Notwithstanding this, it has to be pointed out that the dishes on menus in Chinese
restaurants are those with the most success with the clientele. Therefore, it can be
said that there is a fusion of the various types of cuisine that takes place, which
usually differs from province to province. The Chinese dishes offered to us are only
eaten in China on special occasions, and not every day. This is because a bowl of
noodles in broth would never attract the attention of an Italian like a dish of
Cantonese rice. For this reason the job of restaurant owners is also that of
proposing dishes that will satisfy demanding Italian palates.
Surely the differences are not just between ingredients and flavors, but they also
change how the meal is eaten. Traditionally in China lunch is eaten very early,
around 11am and dinner is served around 6pm. Restaurants in the West,
specifically in Italy, conform to the local eating habits: lunch from 12pm on and
dinner from 7pm on.
Another difference to be noted is the order in which the dishes are served. For
example, noodles are served before the meat or vegetables, just as here in Italy
where there are first and second courses. However, different from when the family
eats at home in China, the main dishes are placed in the center of the table, as
mentioned above, so that everyone has the possibility of choosing their own food to
accompany their portion of white rice.
This moment of community and sharing is favored by a round table which permits
the presentation of the dishes according to this idea of everyone serving themselves
at the same time.
Following this information, we would like to give some advice gathered from the
experiences of Italians who have been to China.
To be sure, for those who have never been there, it is difficult to know what to
expect, so one needs to experiment. For this reason, it is necessary to have an open
mind. The greatest difficulty could be getting used to chopsticks as silverware.
Another difficulty is the lack of distinction between sweet and sour and salty and
spicy which produces flavors that may not reflect our standards.
If by chance one is invited by a Chinese to a restaurant, one can enter in contact
with unusual food, considered however adapted to the occasion according to
Chinese tradition. This could or could not be a positive surprise according to one’s
taste.
In conclusion, even though the Chinese have been very skilled in introducing to the
West their tradition, in order to explore thoroughly the world of flavors of their
cuisine it would be preferable to go directly to where it was born, arming oneself
with the spirit of adventure and curiosity for the unknown. And, who knows, maybe
one may fall in love with this country that is on the other side of the world.
Viola Ghielmetti
Giorgia Manera
Marco Pavarino
Sara Roscio
Ludovica Sacchi