Sun Bake No More: A Safer Alternative for a Beautiful Glow Using Sunless Tanner
Natsumi Ishikawa is currently a Junior pursuing an Accounting degree in the Leventhal School of Accounting
at the University of Southern California. Natsumi interned at Dick Clark Productions this past summer
working on social media outreach and business development. She recently contributed to the digital media
team for the 2012 American Music Awards, which is produced by Dick Clark Productions. She also interned at
Leadership Education for Asian Pacifics, a non-profit, as an accounting and marketing intern. Natsumi is
involved in several extracurricular activities at USC, including the Alpha Kappa Psi Business Fraternity and AZ
Consulting. In her free time, she likes to give back to the community. She looks forward to interning this
summer at an accounting firm and strengthening both technical and communication skills.
Abstract: This article discusses how the discovery of Sunless Tanner has provided an alternative to sunkissed skin that does not have effect of premature aging as well as increased risk of skin cancer. Instead of
exposure to ultraviolet rays, sunless tanners use a natural ingredient, dihydroxyacetone, that reacts with
dead skin cells on the outermost layer of the skin, temporarily staining it a darker brown, dubbed the
maillard Process. Types of sunless tanners range from wipes to creams and are becoming readily available in
the market.
Keywords: Sunless Tanners, Dihydroxyacetone, Skin Cancer, Maillard Process
Multimedia Suggestions
1. Animation of the Maillard Process
2. Ad for sunkissed skin
3. Range of sunless tanners available
Introduction
Having a tan, sun kissed body has been a popular aesthetic for both men and women
of all ages. However, public awareness about the dangerous side effects of exposure to
ultraviolet rays has increased in recent years. Signs of premature aging as well as increased
skin cancer risk can now be attributed to sun bathing [1]. Yet it appears that these
deleterious consequences have failed to impact society as profoundly as dermatologists
would have hoped. Tanning bed salons, which use artificial UV rays, continue to turn a large
profit and media persists in promoting a “just off the beach” tan, whether in entertainment
or fashion.
With this high demand for maintaining a tan appearance, many cosmetic companies
have created sunless tanning solutions that are both convenient and safe, eliminating the
need to spend hours “baking” in the sun. These sunless tanners have increased in
popularity as countless brands create different formulas and methods of application, in
addition to being a much healthier option to increased risks of skin cancer and premature
aging.
What is a sunless tanner?
A sunless tanner creates a chemical reaction on the surface of the skin that gradually
darkens the top layer of skin, resembling the appearance of a suntan. Though a sunless
tanner will last longer than a bronzer that is water soluble, it is a temporary coloration that
last 4-10 days depending on the product and sloughing of skin cells [2]. Originally released
on the market about 50 years ago, the sunless tanning industry has grown exponentially in
recent years. With improvements in composition and uses, there are now a variety of
choices in brands, prices, and types of sunless tanners. Some of the most popular types of
applications include daily moisturizers, mousses, aerosol mists, serums and even tanning
wipes that deposit the formula all over the body [3]. All these alternative methods leaves
the skin darkened, resembling an after vacation glow.
What is a sunless tanner made up of?
The most common active ingredient in these sunless tanners is dihydroxyacetone, or DHA.
In the 1950’s Eva Wittgenstein was researching the use of DHA in treating children with
metabolic disorders at the Children’s Hospital at the University of Cincinnati in Ohio. She
gave the children a concentrated sweet solution that incorporated DHA, and when children
spilled some of this solution on their body, it revealed darker patches of skin hours later.
After reproducing the effects on her own skin, she discovered a new use of DHA [6].
Though tan accelerators containing tyrozene and tanning pills that use
canthaxanthin are available on the market, the FDA has not yet approved these methods,
and little information is available on their effects [2]. Dihydroxyacetone, on the other hand,
was approved by the FDA in the 1970s and is often listed as the most successful ingredient
for a sunless tan. The FDA states, “DHA is listed in the regulations as a color additive for use
in imparting color to the human body” [4]. It is, however, restricted to external application
and cannot be used on the lips or eyes.
DHA (C3H6O3) is a colorless three-carbon sugar; its formula structure is provided in
Figure 1 below. Created and used during glycolysis, this non-toxic simple sugar is naturally
occurring in higher plants and animals and is also metabolized more quickly than glucose.
In the case of sunless tanners, dihydroxyacetone is usually produced from bacteria,
acetobacter suboxydans, or obtained from sugar canes and sugar beets. DHA is found to be
most stable between pH levels of 4 and 6 and will react with a number of ingredients,
including nitrogen and oxygen [5].
Figure 1. Structure of DHA shows a simple three-carbon sugar [2]
that is relatively stable and preferable to other ingredients
Basic principles of how a sunless tanner works
The human skin is made up of several layers; the epidermis itself, which lies above
the dermis, also consists of many levels. The outermost layer of the epidermis, or what is
visible to the eye, is the stratum corneum. This is the level where most sunless tanners
react with the dead skin cells. Sun tanning, on the other hand, occurs at the deepest layer of
the epidermis, or stratum basale [5]. The different layers of the epidermis can be seen in
the diagram in Figure 2.
Figure 2. The different layers of the skin, including the
stratum corneum and stratum basale (Dynamic-AntiAging.com)
When the sunless tanner is applied to the skin, DHA reacts with the amino acids available in
the skin. This reaction between sugar and amino acids is commonly known as the Maillard
Process.
Maillard Process
A reaction more familiar to food chemists, the Maillard Process involves amino acids
reacting to simple sugars in increasing temperatures to produce golden brown compounds
[5]. This can be seen often in carmalization of onions, toasting of bread, and cooking of
steak. This process is also responsible for the distinctive golden brown color of beer [6].
This video in Figure 3 below provides a better understanding of Maillard Process when
applied to food.
Figure 3. Video by foodsciencetv titled “The Maillard Reaction”
describing its process in cooking.
Similar to the effect of the Maillard Process applied in cooking, the DHA and amino
acid groups of protein in the skin react to form a pigmentation, or melanoidins, on the
outermost layer of the epidermis to resemble an artificial tan. Because the body sloughs off
dead skin cells at a rapid rate, the effects of sunless tanners gradually fade. In order to
maintain the tan, most products suggest applying the sunless tanner every few days [2].
In order to address stability issues with DHA, most products are kept at a
concentration level of 3 to 5% [2]. Desired darkness can be reached through multiple
applications of the product, and results can be seen within a few hours. In order to prolong
the color, exfoliation of the outermost layer of dead skin cells will reveal a newer layer of
skin and postpone the shedding of colored skin cells.
Does it decrease the risk of skin cancer and premature aging?
Though many people have the misconception that tanner skin is less prone to the
dangerous effects of ultraviolet rays, studies have shown the DHA have little to no
protective properties against ultraviolet rays. However, the use of sunless tanner in
conjunction with education on the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays was found to be
effective in women in decreasing the likelihood of sunbathing by 33%. On the other hand,
those without sunless tanners that received the same information on ultraviolet rays were
only 10% less likely to sunbathe [7]. The use of sunless tanners can be beneficial in
decreasing the desire to expose skin to harmful rays for extended periods of time, but use
of sunscreen with SPF is still critical to protecting the skin.
Different factors that affect the outcome
In a study conducted in 2003 and published in the British Journal of Dermatology,
scientists discovered that several factors affect the outcome of DHA use in sunless tanners.
Hydration, pH levels and availability of amino acids were critical to the different
performances of DHA sunless tanners. Altering the different factors influenced
pigmentation levels and longevity of the color in test subjects. These results are the
cornerstone for improvements in sunless tanners [5].
Improvements through the years
When it originally hit the market, most sunless tanning products were easily
identified by an orange hue it presented on the skin. Improvements in the composition of
sunless tanner formulas as well as purer forms of DHA have created a more natural
appearance. Some common issues that still exist for sunless tanners are even applications,
as well as the time it takes for a visible difference in skin color [2]. Because the distribution
of amino acids on the epidermis is irregular, it is often difficult to get an even coverage,
leaving behind splotchy areas or different shades. Also, when the development process
takes too long, the concentration of DHA decreases through contact with clothes and
sweating. A patent for a new formula of sunless tanning claims that it provides a more
uniform and quicker customized color through the addition of amphoglycinate together
with DHA to enhance the effect of active ingredients [8].
A Growing Industry
Sunless tanners are now readily available, from drug stores to high-end cosmetic
boutiques and salons. With increased sales, the sunless tanner industry has grown into a
$230 industry that continues to grow today. Covering an age range of 18 to 80, men and
women, this industry has mass-market appeal and will likely persist [3].
The future of sunless tanning
With current trends of bronzed skin continuing, the risk of exposure to ultraviolet
rays remains. However, the sunless tanning products provide a more convenient and safe
alternative to the endless hours in the sun and all the harmful effects that come with it,
such as signs of premature aging and risks of skin cancer. With improvements in DHA
infused sunless tanning technology, a natural glow has never been easier. Though it does
not take the place of sunscreen, it can decrease the need for sunbathing. This growing
industry continues to grow as formulas and DHA advances and new applications are
invented. Baking in the sun is a thing of the past; a beautiful and natural glow can now be
achieved inside without the use of ultraviolet rays.
IEEE CITATION
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[2] S.B. Levy. “Dihydroxyacetone – Containing sunless or self-tanning lotions.” Journal of
American Academy of Dermatology, Vol 27, pp 989-993, Dec. 1992
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[4] “Sunless Tanners and Bronzers.” U.S. Food and Drug Administration. [Online] Available:
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[5] Nguyen & Kochevar. “Factors influencing sunless tanning with dihydroxyacetone.”
British Journal of Dermatology, Vol 149, pp 332-340, 2003
[6] “What’s That Stuff.” American Chemical Society, Vol 78, pp 46, June 2000
[7] “Study finds sunless tanning temporarily deters UV tanning.” Skin Cancer Foundation.
[Online] Available: http://www.skincancer.org/news/tanning/study-finds-sunlesstanning-deters-uv-tanning [Nov. 20, 2012].
[8] “Patent Issued for Sunless Tanning Composition and Method of Sunless Tanning.” Life
Science Weekly, p1042, Sept. 2012