You, too, can play
A Good Game of
Modern Bridge
(for Standard American players)
Bidding methods come and go, but the ones that work
stay. The popular style of bidding today is quite a bit
removed from that of the 1960s, 1970s and even the 1980s.
While high card values are still very important, today there is
far more emphasis on shape. That affects your decision
whether to open or not and your choice of rebid.
In general bidding is far more competitive than it was thirty
years ago. This is so whether it is pre-empting, overcalling
or doubling for takeout.
In this book you will find the methods and conventional
bids which reflect current standards. The first half will
enable the club player to glide comfortably into modern
practice. The second half contains more sophisticated
approaches suitable for the advanced player and perhaps
even for the expert. Adopt those that suit you.
Ron Klinger is a leading international bridge teacher and
has represented Australia in many world championships
from 1976 to 2013. He has written over sixty books, some of
which have been translated into Bulgarian, Chinese,
Danish, French, Hebrew and Icelandic. He has developed
many new bridge ideas and in this book explains and
illustrates the methods which have become current practice
among many leading players.
Published by and available from
Modern Bridge Publications
P.O. Box 140, Northbridge
NSW 1560, Australia
BID AGAINST THE MASTERS by Keith McNeil
Other bridge materials by Ron Klinger
BRIDGE BASICS
THE MODERN LOSING TRICK COUNT
BRIDGE FOR CHILDREN
THE POWER SYSTEM
BRIDGE MADE EASY
CUE BIDDING TO SLAMS
GUIDE TO BETTER BRIDGE
GUIDE TO BETTER DUPLICATE
GUIDE TO BETTER CARD PLAY*
(*Winner of 1991 American Bridge Teachers'
Bridge Book of the Year Award)
PRACTICAL SLAM BIDDING
THE BRIDGE PLAYER WHO LAUGHED
BID BETTER, MUCH BETTER
FIVE-CARD MAJOR STAYMAN
Flipper on The Acol System
BRIDGE ON DVD:
Opening Leads 1, Opening Leads 2, Signals & Discards,
Responder's Strategy, Improve Your Hand Valuation,
Tips on Bidding, Defensive Play, Bidding Over Pre-empts,
Competitive Bidding Part 1, Competitive Bidding Part 2,
Card Combinations for Declarer, Advanced Bidding Technique
Pamphlets on
Opening Leads, Doubles, Multi-Twos, Negative Doubles,
Benjamin Twos, Transfers over 1NT, Competitive Bidding,
10 Great Conventions, 12 More Great Conventions,
Cue Bidding to Slams, Roman Key Card Blackwood
Word Games created by Ron Klinger
WORDLE Board and Card Games
You, too, can play
A Good Game of
Modern Bridge
(for Standard American players)
Ron Klinger
SYDNEY
MODERN BRIDGE PUBLICATIONS
P.O. Box 140, Northbridge
NSW 1560, AUSTRALIA
Telephone (02) 9958 5589
email: [email protected]
Acknowledgement
I am indebted to my various bridge partners for the frequent
discussions on the methods in this book and using them with
me to see how they operate and how they can be improved,
and to my wife Suzie, whose scrutiny and proof-reading is
invaluable in eliminating the errors that I have missed.
© Copyright Ron Klinger 2014
All rights reserved. Reproduction of contents
without written permission of the publisher is prohibited
except for reasonable excerpts for the purpose of reviews.
National Library of Australia card number and ISBN 978-0-9587016-2-4
Typeset in Australia by Modern Bridge Publications,
60 Kameruka Road, Northbridge NSW 2063, Australia
Telephone within Australia (02) 9958-5589,
Telephone from overseas (612) 9958-5589
email: [email protected]
Printed in Australia by McPhersons Print Group
Contents
Introduction
8
PART 1
Bidding Style
Chapter 1
Opening without balanced shape
Chapter 2
Opening with a balanced hand
15
Chapter 3
3rd-seat and 4th-seat openings
16
Chapter 4
Pre-emptive openings
18
Chapter 5
The Losing Trick Count
21
Chapter 6
Opening 1NT with a 5-card major
30
Chapter 7
Be prepared to make light opening bids
34
Chapter 8
Responding light to a suit opening bid
36
PART 2
For Club Players
Chapter 9
Opening the bidding
47
Chapter 10
Responding to a 1-suit opening
50
Chapter 11
Development of suit auctions
55
Chapter 12
Bidding after a 1NT opening
62
Chapter 13
Bidding after a 2NT opening
68
Chapter 14
Bidding after a Gambling 3NT
70
Chapter 15
Bidding after the 26 opening
71
Chapter 16
The weak two openings
74
Chapter 17
After partner’s pre-empt
75
Chapter 18
Slam bidding
76
9
Chapter 19
Competitive Bidding
78
Chapter 20
Opening leads and signals
84
Part 3
Congress, State, County, Regional Players
Chapter 21
Opening the bidding
86
Chapter 22
Responding to a 1-suit opening
88
Chapter 23
Development of suit auctions
96
Chapter 24
Bidding after a 1NT opening
101
Chapter 25
Bidding after a 2NT opening
109
Chapter 26
3NT opening for specific aces
111
Chapter 27
Bidding after the 26 opening
112
Chapter 28
Multi-two openings
114
Chapter 29
After partner’s pre-empt
119
Chapter 30
Slam Bidding
120
Chapter 31
Competitive bidding
129
Part 4
For ambitious players, enthusiastic experts
Chapter 32
Opening the bidding
144
Chapter 33
Responding to a 1-suit opening
146
Chapter 34
Opener’s rebids
150
Chapter 35
Responder’s rebids
160
Chapter 36
Bidding by a passed hand
179
Chapter 37
The 1NT opening
180
Chapter 38
The 2NT opening
195
Chapter 39
The 26 opening
200
Chapter 40
The 2&, 2% and 28 openings
205
Chapter 41
Bidding after partner’s pre-empt
210
Chapter 42
The 3NT opening
211
Chapter 43
Competitive bidding
214
Chapter 44
Defensive bidding
219
Chapter 45
Slam bidding
237
Chapter 46
Leads and signals
249
Appendix 1 The 5-4-3-2-1 point count
254
Appendix 2 1-Major : 2& and 1-Major : 26
257
Appendix 3 1M : 2NT – a different approach
262
Appendix 4 Minor considerations
264
Appendix 5 Some example deals
266
Brief index for Part 4
5-card major Stayman 180ff
5NT Grand Slam Ask 248
After 1X : 1Y, 2NT 162-164
After a reverse 162
Bergen Raises 148
Cue-bidding 237-240
Exclusion Key Card Blackwood 245, 247
Jacoby 2NT 148
Leaping Michaels 192, 223
Roman Key Card Blackwood 240, 246
Splinters 148, 164
Splinters after a 1NT opening 189-190
Stopper asks 166
Transfer responses 146, 150 ff
X / Y / Z 160-161
Introduction
There will always be new ideas on bidding, but which ones are
worthwhile? The methods in this book have proven themselves at
top level and are accepted by many leading players.
There are four parts. Chapters 1-8 should apply regardless of your
standard and the level at which you are competing. Part 2 is mainly
for club players, who do not want to be overloaded with system
structure and conventions, but are keen to do well at the local club.
Part 3 is for those who aspire to higher attainments, those who want
to win at bridge congresses, state or county championships or
regional tournaments.
Part 4 is for those who have no limits on their ambitions in the
bridge world. These are the players who want to be #1 in each and
every tournament in which they compete. The material in Part 4 is
definitely advanced, but it is not beyond you. You just need to have
enthusiasm and a partner who is as keen as you are to progress and
win on a regular basis.
You do not need to stick to just one part of this book. You can
construct your own system. Choose one approach from Part 2,
another from Part 3 and others from Part 4 if you wish. If you
already have a system you like, you can add parts to it from this
book. Whichever you and partner decide to adopt, you can
amalgamate the methods to produce an efficient bidding system.
Part of me hopes you and your partner(s) make it through Part 4.
Another part is concerned that this will lead to a sharp increase in
your skill and will make you a threat if we meet as opponents at
the bridge table. Accordingly there is a caveat on the material. If
you sit down at my table or I come to your table, nothing you have
learned from this book may be used against me.
Happy bridging.
Ron Klinger, 2014
PART 1: BIDDING STYLE
Chapter 1: Opening without balanced shape
In first and second seat
When I first learnt to play, one opened all hands with 14+
HCP and almost all hands with 13 HCP. Hands of 12 HCP
needed some positive feature to justify opening.
How times have changed! These days you need a good
reason not to open a hand with 12 HCP and many hands
with fewer high card points are opened routinely.
One of the architects of the modern predilection for lighter
openings is Marty Bergen with his Rule of 20: Add your HCP
to the number of cards in your two long suits. If the total is
20 or more, you have a one-opening in first or second seat.
While the Rule of 20 will work for most hands, it does omit
one important factor when choosing an opening bid: the
defensive potential. A suit opening of one should include
some defence, normally at least 1½ to 2 tricks. The Rule of
22 uses the Rule of 20 as a basis but adds defensive
winners as an extra factor:
The Rule of 22:
Add (1) Your high card points to
(2) The number of cards in your two longest suits and
(3) The number of quick tricks you hold
Quick tricks are those that you are likely to win whether
your side is declaring or defending. They are the tricks you
figure to win in the first two rounds of a suit. Thus, suits
headed by A-K = 2 quick tricks, A-Q = 1½, A = 1, K-Q = 1
and K = ½ (but nothing if the king is singleton).
10
A Good Game of Modern Bridge
Rule of 22: After adding your HCP (strength), two long
suits (shape) and quick tricks (defence), if the total comes
to 22 or more you have a sound opening of one in first or
second seat. (There are other considerations in third or
fourth seat and these will be considered later.)
Each of these hands would be worth a 1% opening in first
or second seat:
1. 8
%
&
6
973
AQ964
AJ52
4
2. 8
%
&
6
6
AQ9642
KJ73
42
3. 8
%
&
6
54
KQ7632
A9843
---
1. 11 HCP + 9 cards in two long suits + 2½ quick tricks = 22½.
2. 10 HCP + 10 cards in two long suits + 2 quick tricks = 22.
3. 9 HCP + 11 cards in two long suits + 2 quick tricks = 22.
Have you noticed a common feature in these examples? In
each case the high cards are in the long suits. That is an
important ingredient when opening with light high card
values. When you have honours in short suits, you should
make some adjustments to downgrade the hand. For a
singleton ace, king, queen or jack, deduct a point. For any
honour in a doubleton suit, downgrade by half a point. Thus,
take a point off for K-Q doubleton, Q-J doubleton, and so on.
As a result, these hands should not be opened with a one-bid:
1. 8
%
&
6
973
A9642
AJ52
Q
2. 8
%
&
6
6
A97642
J743
KQ
3. 8
%
&
6
AK
Q76432
98432
---
1. Deduct 1 point for the bare queen leaves 21 opening points.
2. Deduct 1 point for K-Q doubleton leaves 21 opening points.
3. Deduct 1 point for A-K bare leaves 21 opening points.
Opening without balanced shape
11
Why do we count points? To measure tricks. How many
points equal one trick? There are 40 HCP in the pack and
there are 13 tricks. That means each trick is worth a tiny bit
more than 3 points. In consequence it pays you to upgrade
hands when the tricks obviously exceed the high card
values for that combination.
This will often occur when you have honour cards in
combination. Suppose you hold A-K-Q-J. You count 10
HCP, but this is clearly four tricks. Therefore add at least
one point for such a holding. Similarly, K-Q-J-10 is 6 HCP,
but it is worth three tricks. Upgrade.
An easy guide to cater for such holdings: Add half a point
for a suit which contains three honours, a full point for four
honours in the one suit and two points for all five honours.
Another factor which can bring in extra tricks is length in a
suit. Suppose you holds A-K-Q-J-2. You have 10 HCP, but
this suit has four sure tricks and most of the time five. You
have already added one point for the four honours. It is
certainly worth adding another point for the 5-card suit. The
stronger the suit, the more likely it is that the length in the
suit will produce an additional trick.
When responding to a 1NT opening, make sure you add
one point for the fifth card in a suit, two for the sixth and
three for the seventh. Even this is a conservative approach.
How does this translate into practice?
8
%
&
6
KQ76543
--9872
54
You have only 5 HCP, but counting
extra points for the fifth, sixth and
seventh cards (1 + 2 + 3) gives you
an extra six points. Insist on 48.
It would be far too timid to sign off in 28 and even inviting
game via 1NT : 2%, 28 : 38 does not do this hand justice.
Note again that your limited high cards are in your long suit.
12
A Good Game of Modern Bridge
Suits that include the ten are worth an upgrade, particularly
when the suit contains higher honours as well.
(a) Dummy:
763
(b) Dummy:
You:
AJ5
You:
763
A J 10
In (a) you have about a 25% chance of two tricks. With (b)
this has risen to 75%. It is sensible to add a point for (b).
(a) Dummy:
Q63
(b) Dummy:
Q63
You:
A54
You:
A 10 4
With (a) you have a 50% chance for two tricks. With (b) the
odds are 75% and this climbs to 100% if either opponent
leads the suit. Consider A-10-x as a plus value.
Just as the ten can be valuable, a suit including 10-9 can
also add extra playing strength.
(a) Dummy:
You:
Q63
AJ42
(b) Dummy:
Q 10 9
You:
AJ42
With (a) you have two sure tricks. For three tricks you will
need a 3-3 break or the king singleton or doubleton onside.
With (b) the presence of the ten guarantees three tricks and
with the nine as well, you have a 50% chance for four tricks.
There is no chance for four tricks with (a).
Even when the ten is not held, the presence of other
intermediate holdings such as the 9-8 can be very useful.
(a) Dummy:
You:
K6432
A7
(b) Dummy:
You:
K9832
A5
With (a) you can make four tricks only if the suit splits 3-3.
With (b) you make four tricks on a 3-3 break and also if
either opponent holds Q-J, Q-10 or J-10 doubleton.
Opening without balanced shape
13
Upgrading for wilder shape
The more freakish the hand pattern, the greater the playing
strength. With nine cards in your two longest suits, upgrade
the hand by half a point for a singleton (5-4-3-1 has more
playing strength than 5-4-2-2) and by one point for a void
(5-4-4-0 is better than 5-4-3-1).
With ten or eleven cards in two suits, you are bound to
have a singleton or a void, so no upgrade for a singleton,
but add half a point for a void (5-5-3-0 is better than 5-5-2-1,
7-4-2-0 is better than 7-4-1-1).
Downgrading for flat shape
The 4-3-3-3 pattern has poor playing strength. There is only
one suit which can provide a length trick, compared with the
better 4-4-3-2, which has two such suits. The 4-3-3-3 has no
ruffing power, so beware if you are heading for a suit contract.
It is sensible to downgrade this pattern.
General opening strategy
Using HCP + two long suits + quick tricks to calculate your
‘opening points’ and upgrading or downgrading as suggested
above, your approach can be categorised thus:
22+ opening points: Your opening is sound.
21–21½ opening points: Your opening is aggressive.
20½ or fewer opening points: Your opening is wild.
At favourable vulnerability only, shade these above slightly:
21½+ opening points: Your opening is sound.
20½–21 opening points: Your opening is aggressive.
20 or fewer opening points: Your opening is wild.
14
A Good Game of Modern Bridge
Aces
Aces are particularly valuable in trump contracts. With a
hand that is not balanced, be prepared to upgrade hands
with more than the normal expectation of aces. Add a point
for three or four aces in an unbalanced hand.
Jacks
Jacks are not worth their full one point in an unbalanced
hand. Deduct a point for three or four jacks in a hand that is
not balanced.
Exercise
Which of these hands are worth an opening bid of one in
first or second seat?
1. 8
%
&
6
KJ53
KJ732
QJ
J4
2. 8
%
&
6
A Q J 10
A 10 9 4
8742
5
3. 8
%
&
6
Q 10 9 8 4 2
--AKJ2
643
4. 8
%
&
6
AK7532
J4
Q
J752
5. 8
%
&
6
A J 10 3 2
2
A 10 8 6 4 3
8
6. 8
%
&
6
98743
KQ
KJ73
QJ
1. Pass. 12 HCP + 9 (length) + 1 quick trick (QT) = 22, but
deduct 1 for Q-J bare, 1 for four jacks and ½ for J-x = 19½.
2. Open. 11 HCP + 8 (length) + 2½ QT = 21½, but add 1 for
four honours in one suit = 22½. Definitely worth opening.
3. Open. 10 HCP + 10 length + 2 QT =22. In addition you
have three honours in one suit and excess shape (void).
4. Pass. 11 HCP + 10 (length) + 2 QT = 23, but –1 (bare Q),
–½ for J-x, and no tens. Prefer to open with a weak two.
5. Open. 9 HCP + 11 (length) + 2 QT + ½ (A-J-10) = 22½.
6. Pass. 12 HCP + 9 length + 1½ quick tricks = 22½, but –1
for K-Q bare and –1 for Q-J bare = 20½. Definitely pass.
Part 4 – FOR AMBITIOUS PLAYERS
AND ENTHUSIASTIC EXPERTS
Chapter 32: Opening the bidding
Five-card majors and 1NT 15-17 (can have a 5-major). After
a 1-suit opening, these principles apply to opener’s rebid:
1. Without support for responder’s suit, opener always
rebids 1NT with a minimum balanced hand (12-14 HCP)
and does not bid a 4-card suit below 1NT. This means
that opener’s 1NT rebid does not deny a suit that could
have been bid at the 1-level.
2. Without support for responder’s suit, opener always
rebids 2NT with a strong balanced hand (18-20 HCP)
and does not bid a 4-card suit instead. This means that
opener’s 2NT rebid does not deny a suit that could have
been bid at the 1-level or 2-level.
3. If opener rebids in a suit at the 1-level, this promises
a hand that is not balanced. It will not have a 4-3-3-3 or a
4-4-3-2 pattern. See pages 47-48 for examples.
Bidding longest suit first and higher-ranking suit with a 5-5
or 6-6 pattern and applying the above principles it follows
that 16 : 1&, 1% will have 4 hearts and longer clubs OR it
can be a 4-4-1-4 pattern OR possibly 5 hearts and 6+ clubs.
However, 16 : 1&, 18 will have 4 spades and longer clubs
(or 5 spades – 6+ clubs). With 4-1-4-4, open 1&.
The expectation for 16 : 1%, 18 is 4 spades and 5+ clubs.
It will not be 4-1-4-4 (open 1&), but could be a 5-6+ pattern.
1& : 1%, 18 will usually contain four spades and longer
diamonds, but it could be a 4-1-4-4 pattern. It might also be
5 spades and 6+ diamonds, since longer suit comes first.
Part 4: Opening the bidding
145
With no 5-major, open the longer minor. With 4 spades-4
hearts-3 diamonds-2 clubs, open 1&. With 4-4 in the minors
or 3-3 in the minors, open 16 (note the change when 4-4).
Some prefer to open 16 with any 4-3-3-3 and any 4-4-3-2,
even with 4 diamonds and 2 clubs. There are two objectives:
(1) A 1& opening will then have 5 diamonds or be a 4-4-4-1
pattern. That is useful for competitive auctions.
(2) Opening 16 allows transfer responses (see Chapter 33)
and these are very popular.
Disadvantages to opening 16 with a doubleton include:
(1) Raising clubs becomes a more awkward choice when
opener might have only two clubs.
(2) It is harder to compete in diamonds after a 16 opening
when opener could have four diamonds and two clubs.
(3) The opening lead becomes tougher if the opponents win
the contract after a 16 opening by your side. Partner might
have a genuine club suit or merely a doubleton. Partner could
have four diamonds.
If you wish to adopt that approach, by all means do so if you
feel the benefits outweigh the drawbacks.
For more about a useful style for opening the bidding, see
Chapters 1-7, particularly Chapter 7 on light opening bids.
Other opening bids
26 = very strong, game-force or 23+ balanced;
2& = very weak two in hearts or in spades, 4-7 points
2% / 28 = strong weak two, 8-11 points. Some play the 2&
opening as 5-8 points and 2% / 28 as 9-12.
For pre-empts, see Chapter 4. Most top players prefer to
use the Rule of 3 for pre-empts whether vulnerable or not.
The 3NT opening: Specific Ace Ask. You can find one
version in Chapter 26, page 111. Another version allowing
greater frequency for the bid is in Chapter 42.