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Basic Plant
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2012 GCA Horticulture Committee
This online manual is an expanded version of the GCA
Basic Plant Propagation Handbook. The Handbook is
available from GCA Headquarters and on the GCA Website
(see page 15). The GCA Horticulture Committee hopes these
publications will encourage you to start propagating plants!
VEGETATIVE
PROPAGATION
Basic Plant Propagation
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Table of Contents
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Introduction! !
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General Rules of Propagating!!
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Supplies: Basic Tools and Equipment!!
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Vegetative Propagation!
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Softwood Cuttings!
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Rooting Hormones!
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Hardwood Cuttings! !
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Semi-hardwood Cuttings!
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Root Cuttings! !
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Division!
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Leaf Cuttings! !
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Layering!
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Grafting!
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Appendix!
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Glossary!
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Websites!
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GCA On-Line Links! !
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Further Reading!
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Propagation Handbook Ordering Information!
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Basic Plant Propagation
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W H Y P R O PA G A T E General Rules of
Propagating
PLANTS?
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Research
Variety—Anything Is Possible!
A little time spent researching the
Growing your own expands your choices.
plant species before you start will
You can choose flowers for cutting,
result in much
heirloom varieties of flowers or vegetables,
higher success
or native plants to provide habitat for
rates and the
butterflies and birds.
Internet makes
Preservation
this easy. A
With an old or rare plant, taking cuttings
quick on-line
is a way to perpetuate the plant. A plant
search, using
grown from a cutting will be a clone, a
Google or
new plant with identical characteristics.
another search
Because most garden centers offer
engine, will
“popular plants” that sell in large
save time and
quantities, propagating from seeds and
anguish. Just
cuttings provides a chance to grow
type in: “propagating” followed by
uncommon plants, varieties that comthe name of the plant. Some seeds
mercial growers and garden centers do
need a cold treatment, some plants
not find profitable.
are almost impossible to propagate
from stem cuttings or from seed, but
Club and Zone Plant Exchanges or
can easily be grown from a root
Challenge Classes at a Flower Show
cutting or a simple layer.
Learn these skills so you can participate
in plant exchanges and the propagation
Cleanliness
classes for flower shows. This is a fun
Disease organisms can survive in the
skill to acquire and share with other club
bits of soil in used pots; plant viruses
members, your children or grandchildren.
can be spread from an infected plant
You Control Chemical Usage
to a healthy plant on your hands or
Most commercial growers use chemicals
by a knife or scissors.
to control insects and disease and
Be sure your hands, gloves,
chemical growth regulators to keep the
containers and tools are clean!
plants short. When growing your own
plants, you control any use of chemicals
Wash with soap and water, then
and can grow a sturdy, “green” plant.
disinfect tools and
containers with 1 TBSP Clorox/
Fun
1gallon of warm water.
Growing from seed or cuttings is a great
learning experience; you will have great
Use new, sterile, soilless mix; this is
success, and probably a few failures. You
not the time to re-use the
will have many plants to share with
soilless mix from last summer’s
friends! Your gardening skills will
container.
improve as you work with seedlings and
Use Healthy, Well-Watered Plants for
newly rooted cuttings, learning when to
Cuttings, New or Well-Stored Seeds
water and to recognize the signs of pests
Many seeds will remain viable for
or disease.
years if stored in a plastic container in
a refrigerator; some seeds must be
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fresh. (Research your plant species,
and for information on testing for
viability.)
Water
Warm water is best. Cold water will
lower the soil temperature, slowing
germination or root formation. Water
processed through a water softener
has toxic amounts of sodium, which
will kill plants. In a home with
softened water, use untreated water,
water from a rain barrel or an outside
tap (that does not connect to the
water softener).
Timing
Seed packets (or on-line sites,
reference books) will give number of
days to germinate, and number of
weeks before planting. Check the
“last frost” date for your area, and
then count backwards on a calendar.
Do not start too early! Seedlings will
grow quickly, especially during the
longer, sunnier days of April and
May. For most annuals, 6–8 weeks
after germination will produce a
healthy, well-rooted plant.
Tip: Plants will be
much healthier in your
garden if planted before
they come into bloom.
You may not get the
instant satisfaction on
the day you plant, but a
stocky “green” plant will
reward you with better
garden performance all
summer.
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Supplies
Basic Tools & Equipment
1.
2.
3.
Sterile growing medium—A
commercial soilless mix
(e.g. Pro-Mix, Fafard, Sunshine) works
well for almost all seeds and cuttings;
these are sterile, consistent, and
available. (A local nursery growing
their own plants often offers a quality
soilless mix for sale, or Google a brand
name to find a local source.) Avoid
mixes with “continuous feeding.”
Soilless mixes with up to 40%
hardwood bark will help suppress
disease organisms in the soil. By using
the same mix, you will learn to judge
when to water.
Shallow containers 2"–3" deep with
drainage holes: Bedding plant flats
and inserts are useful; shallow pots
also work. Deeper containers remain
too wet (no air spaces). New roots will
rot. 3”-4” containers work best for
softwood and semi-hardwood cuttings
of woody plants.
5.
a.
Spray bottle to spritz (mist);
b.
Watering can with a “rain-nozzle,”
or “water-dispersing
nozzle,” so the water doesn’t
create gullies but is gently
spread across the surface.
Self-watering trays are a useful
option
d. Otherwise, large dishpan or
aluminum turkey roasting
pan for bottom watering.
Light: If you will be growing the
young seedlings for more
than two weeks before planting
outdoors, supplemental lighting is
useful. Fluorescent lights are ideal (do
not need specialty “gro-bulbs”).
Fluorescent lights 16 hours per day,
(with an 8-hour dark period) are
helpful for most plants.
Temperature control: You can go hitech, or improvise. There are specialty
heat mats; or you may have a warm
spot above a radiator, or on top of a
refrigerator. A string of tiny Christmas
lights under a Pyrex baking dish will
create bottom heat. (LED lights will
not work; use an old string of
incandescent bulbs that give off heat.)
10. Small fan or cold frame: useful
options to help harden off
seedlings or cuttings
For Cuttings
1.
Clean cutting tool: one-sided razor,
sharp knife, clippers, scissors
2.
Rooting compound: Rootone,
Hormodin, etc.
3.
Potato peeler for “wounding” the
bark of a cutting
Additional Supplies for Cuttings
For Layering:
1.
Pebble or toothpick to hold open split
in stem
Peg (or large hairpin, piece of wire) to
hold down shoot in soil
6.
Labels, #2 lead pencil, notebook to
record
2.
7.
Plastic for tenting: Ziploc bag or a
dry-cleaner bag, plus supports (almost
anything works: wire hangers,
popsicle sticks, bamboo stakes, plastic
straws) to keep plastic about 4" above
seeds or cuttings. Self-watering trays
have a lid that serves this function.
For Air Layering:
Tool for marking rows, transplanting
the rooted seedlings or cuttings—a
butterknife, dibble, pencil
For Grafting:
Use warm water:
c.
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4.
8.
9.
Fertilizer: use only when seedlings or
cuttings are well
established; liquid (chemical)
fertilizers, timed-release, or
organic forms—e.g. diluted sea weed
emulsion
1.
Spaghnum moss
2.
Plastic to hold spaghnum around
branch
3.
Tape to hold plastic in place
1.
Sharp grafting knife (clean)
2.
Grafting rubbers (special wide rubber
bands available from Nursery Supply
stores)
3.
Grafting wax or Tree-Kote, freezer
tape, strips of Saran Wrap or Paraffin
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Softwood Cutting
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gently to remove excess (which
could clog pores). You do not
need a lot—just a light dusting.
These are cuttings taken from current
season’s growth (late spring or
Vegetative propagation requires summer): use non-blooming or non- 4. Poke 1/2" holes in soil-mix with
a pencil or dibble—not too deep!
cutting a small part of a parent fruiting softwood when new growth is
Place the cutting in (being
plant and promoting root growth hardening or at the “snap stage.”
careful not to scrape off the
Depending on the plant, cuttings
to create a new plant. The new
rooting powder as you place it);
should be 4"–8", ideally with 2 leaf
plant will be genetically
firm soil around it. (Make sure
nodes. Annuals and tender perennials
no leaves are under the soil.
identical to the parent plant. are usually shorter, 3"–4", woody
They would begin to rot, and
plants 6"–8". This method of
It can be as simple as placing
those disease organisms could
propagation works with almost all
stems of ivy, pussy willow, or
spread to the cutting.)
species of annuals and tender
coleus in water and seeing roots
perennials and many woody plants as
form in a week or two, or a very well.
slow meticulous process. Before
you start, do a quick on-line
search to learn what type of
vegetative propagation works
best for the plant you are
working with.
Tip: Make sure the
“parent plant” is well
watered in advance;
once the cutting is
removed from the parent
it cannot absorb more
water until roots grow.
Success depends on
keeping the stem and
leaves from drying out
before new roots form.
Take cuttings in the
morning, place in a
plastic bag to retain
moisture—do not allow
to wilt!
Basic Plant Propagation
1. Fill container with commercial
soilless mix; bedding plant
inserts give each cutting its own
pocket, preventing the spread of
soil-born disease. Shallow pots
also work. Water thoroughly;
mix needs to be thoroughly
moist.
Tip: Cuttings longer
than 4"–8" seldom take
root; without roots to
absorb water, the tip of a
long cutting loses moisture
(turgidity), and within a
week, the entire cutting
desiccates.
2. Cut a 4"–8" tip from the branch,
below a node; remove any
lower leaves that would be
below ground, cut large leaves,
such as rhododendron,
in half. Minimize evaporation
by minimizing the number
and size of leaves. For woody
plants, use a potato peeler or
knife, very gently peeling a
vertical strip at the bottom
1/4" of the stem in two spots,
leaving part intact. This is
called “wounding” and
encourages root development.
3. Pour a small amount of
Rootone or Hormodin (see
“Rooting Hormones”, p. 6) into
a cup. Dip cutting in—then tap
Roots will form from the leaf
nodes, the area on the stem where
the leaves were removed. Drawing
by Martha Kemp.
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Tip: Even cuttings taken
from the same plant will
vary in the length of time to
form roots. By using
separate containers or cellpaks, it is easier to move the
rooting plants from those
still needing extra warmth
and humidity.
5. Do not crowd cuttings in a
single container—leaves should
not touch.
6. Continue with your cuttings,
insert labels with name and
date, then spritz with water.
7. Tent with plastic, keeping it
above the foliage, creating a
warm, humid micro-climate.
8. Provide bottom heat to keep the
soilless mix close to 75°, roots
will form more quickly. This
may be on top of a refrigerator, a
radiator, or using a heat mat.
(Disease pathogens thrive in
cooler temperatures; providing
bottom heat speeds up root
formation and slows the growth
of disease organisms.)
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13. Wait to transplant into a larger
there is resistance, roots are
container until roots on cuttings
forming. To peek, carefully use a
are about 1" (ideally a nice ball,
dibble or label and lift from
with multiple roots). Transplant
below.
to a 3"–4" container, water well,
11. As roots begin to form, reduce
label, and keep out of direct sun
the humidity—open the plastic
for a few days (to help plant
tent, and then remove it after 3–
recover from transplant shock).
4 days. You want these new
Choose a container in
roots to grow into the soilless
proportion to the root ball,
mix, so water only when mix is
providing 2"–3" inches of
drying out (lift container to
soilless mix around the roots.
know when it is dry).
12. Immediately remove any
cuttings that have lost all leaves,
look squishy or sick, and
remove the soilless mix from the
immediate area if you have
several cuttings in one
container. This will prevent
disease organisms from the
“sick” cutting from attacking the
other cuttings. (Or move healthy
cuttings to a new container with
fresh soilless mix.)
Tip: Fertilizing too
early or with a full
strength dose in the first
weeks, before roots are
reaching the bottom of the
container may injure or
even kill your rooted
cutting; a plant can only
absorb fertilizer when the
roots are healthy. (See The
Real Dirt, Issue #16,
“Fertilizing Indoor
Plants.”)
14. Once plant is established,
actively growing with healthy
roots, use either organic or
chemical liquid fertilizer at halfstrength in alternate waterings.
9. Spritz with warm water 2–3
times a week to keep humidity
high. Lift containers to check
weight, to know if it is drying
out. Sub-irrigate (bottom water)
if dry. Soilless mix needs to be
moist, but not soggy.
10. After two weeks, begin to check
for rooting. Some plants may
root in two weeks, others may
take months. Tug very gently. If
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15. After 3–4 weeks, if the roots
have reached the bottom of the
pot, cuttings may need to be
transplanted to a larger pot.
A well-rooted stem cutting of a
Begonia cultivar. The cutting was
provided with adequate moisture and
bottom heat and the results show!
16. If the rooted cutting is now
growing actively, fertilize at full
strength in alternate waterings.
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Other Methods of Vegetative Propagation
The easiest methods for propagating plants are usually planting seeds and rooting softwood cuttings. There
are, however, many plants that do not flower (and therefore do not have seeds), and the seeds from some
plants do not produce a plant with the characteristics of the parent plant (e.g. if you plant an apple seed you
will get an apple tree, but the apples it produces have a 99% chance of being very sour and inedible.) Some
plants do not have the stems necessary for softwood cuttings (e.g. African violets, some begonias, many
succulents). Over the centuries, other methods of propagating plants have been developed, usually because
the desired plant will not reproduce from seed or softwood cuttings. The following sections describe propagation from Hardwood and Semi-hardwood Cuttings, Root Cuttings,
Division, Leaf Cuttings, Layering and Grafting. Remember, to insure a more successful outcome, research
your particular plant’s best method of propagation before beginning. Rooting Hormones
The best
way to
propagate
is to use
the
plant’s
natural
reproduction ability. Plants produce
auxins in their leaves that serve as
growth regulators, and can cause
dormant cells to divide and become
roots. In vegetative propagation,
synthetic auxins (rooting compounds)
are often used to stimulate the growth
of adventitious roots that will form at
the base of the cutting.
Cuttings of some plants will form
roots easily: willows, ivy, coleus. But
rooting compounds (auxins) will help
with most plants. Roots will form
more quickly and the percentage of
cuttings that form roots will increase. Rooting Compounds come in various
strengths and formulations. Hormodin, Hormex, Rootone, and
Hormo-Root all mix IBA or NAA in
talcum powder. A light dusting of
Basic Plant Propagation
one of these powders will promote
root growth for most softwood
cuttings (cuttings of new growth). Most perennials, many houseplants,
some trees and shrubs can be
propagated using softwood
cuttings, taken in late spring or
early summer.
For semi-hardwood or hardwood
cuttings, a rooting compound with
a stronger formulation is usually
needed. These are liquid
compounds, using IBA in 0.3% up
to 1.6% strengths. Search on-line to
find the concentration of chemical
needed for the genus/species.
Tip: Rooting
compounds in the right
strength will speed
root formation, but
these same compounds
in higher
concentrations will
burn or even kill your
cutting! No matter what type of
vegetative propagation
you are attempting,
always remember to....
...remove all buds, flowers or seeds
from a cutting before attempting to
root. All of the cutting’s growth
activity needs to be concentrated
on forming roots, not setting
seed!
...take all cuttings from healthy,
well-watered young specimens
when possible. It is a well known
fact that the “juvenility” of the
parent plant has a positive effect
on the success rate of cuttings.
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cuttings in early winter and follow
directions for softwood cuttings
above, using a
There are many different ways to do
stronger rooting
this type of stem cutting. This is the
hormone. Some
most basic method appropriate for
species will
home gardeners. Plants suitable for
benefit from
hardwood cuttings are most deciduous
more extensive
wounding of the
shrubs and some trees such as willow.
base. Read up on
Vines such as honeysuckle (Lonicera),
the specific
grape (Vitus) and Wisteria are good
needs of each
candidates for hardwood cuttings.
species. Semi-hardwood cuttings
Semi-hardwood cuttings are most
should be treated to bottom heat and
often used for evergreens and conifers. a humid environment so tent or
enclose the pots in plastic and slowly
1. Take pencil-width cuttings from
remove after rooting. It may take 2 or
current year’s growth with 3 or
3 months for roots to form.
more leaf nodes, in late fall or
early winter when plant is
dormant and has lost its leaves. If
a longer stem is taken to cut into
Root cuttings are a good way to
smaller pieces make sure each
propagate any suckering woody plant
cutting has at least 3 leaf nodes
such as lilacs (Syringa) and many
(around 6” long for most plants).
perennials with fleshy root systems
Be sure to make cuts indicating
stem’s polarity: slanting cut below such as poppies (Papaver).
a node for part of stem growing
1. In late winter or very early spring,
closest to the roots of the plant,
when the plant is dormant and
straight cut for top of cutting; you
before growth has commenced,
don’t want to plant your cutting
use a sharp spade, driving it into
upside down!
the ground one third of the way in
2. Apply hormone powder.
from the outermost spread of the
branches.
3. Label cutting and tie in bundles
and bury outdoors or in cold
2. Cut off a section of roots. Pry
frame to callus, cover with 6-8” of
them up and pull gently from the
sand, and mulch.
soil. Rinse soil off roots.
Hardwood Cuttings
Root Cuttings
4. In spring, plant in ground or pot,
straight cut up, with one bud
showing. (Note: In climates with
mild winters, hardwood cuttings
may be planted directly into
planting medium and placed
outdoors.)
Semi-hardwood Cuttings
Semi-hardwood cuttings are most
often used for non-deciduous plants,
both broadleaf and conifers. Take
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3. Make a straight cut on the
proximal end of the root (roots
growing closest to plant) and a
slanted cut on the distal end of the
root (roots growing farthest away
from plant). It is very important to
mark the roots polarity, as the root
growing closest to the plant crown
must be at the top of the pot when
root cuttings are planted vertically
because this is where the new
growth will emerge.
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4. Cut cleaned root sections into
pieces about 2" to 7" long. Trim off
any excess, tiny fibrous roots.
5. Dust root cuttings with fungicide
or ground cinnamon, a natural
and effective alternative to
chemicals. Thicker roots can be
cut in shorter pieces while thinner,
more delicate roots should be on
the longer side.
6. The smaller, thinner roots may
then be placed horizontally in the
propagation bed, and covered
with just ½” of growing medium.
7. Thicker roots should be planted
vertically, making sure the
proximal end of the cutting (end
that was growing closest to the
parent plant) with the flat top is
stuck facing upward and flush
with the growing medium in the
pot.
8. The slanted cut on the distal end
will then be pointing down into
the pot.
9. Root cuttings can be left outdoors
in their pots or flats in a protected
area such as a cold frame or
heeled into a plunge bed. Growth
should commence in the spring.
Preparing Sassafras albidum root
cuttings; the cleaned root
sections are being dusted with
cinnamon, a natural and highly
effective fungicide, before being
treated with rooting hormone and
then laid horizontally in the flat.
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Division
Leaf Cuttings
Whether you are dividing a pot-bound
plant or a perennial in the ground, the
purpose of division is to create more of
the same plant and to improve the vigor
of the original plant and all its progeny.
Many tropical and succulent plants
including Begonia, Sansevieria, and
gesneriads such as African violets
(Saintpaulia) can easily be propagated
from a leaf or a piece of a leaf. There are
several different types of leaf cuttings.
Most benefit from some kind of bottom
heat and some also need the increased
humidity that a plastic tent or bag
would provide. As with all
propagation, research your specific
species’ needs before beginning.
Division is best undertaken before
active growth commences. Don’t be
afraid to use sharp implements to cut
apart overgrown plants; they will
recover and be better off for it.
Leaf Without a Petiole
This method is used for plants with
thick, succulent leaves such as
Sansevieria, that are propagated by
cutting the long leaves into 3-4”
pieces. Insert the cuttings vertically
into the medium, making sure the
original orientation is the same—
basal or proximal end (the end closest
to the crown of the plant or the roots)
down and the part of leaf that was
growing towards the tip, up.
Echeveria, African violets and
begonias can also be propagated by
leaf cutting. Cut a leaf from a plant
and remove the petiole (the small
stalk that attaches the leaf to the
stem). Insert the leaf vertically into
the medium making sure that the
mid-vein, the vein growing in the
center of the leaf, is buried in the
rooting medium. New plant(s) will
form from this vein. When enough
roots are formed the new plants can
then be detached from the shriveled
up old leaf and potted up.
An Aloe brevifolia in need of division. Rooted
pups are carefully teased away from the
parent plant; any unrooted pieces of
succulent plants should be left to heal for
a day or two and then placed in a well
drained mix to form new roots. Label all
new plants with name and date of
propagation. Dividing and repotting is also an
excellent time to groom the parent plant.
Basic Plant Propagation
Leaf with Petiole
Remove a leaf from the parent plant
and include up to one and a half
inches of the petiole (the small stalk
that attaches the leaf to the stem).
Insert the lower end of the petiole
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Leaf cuttings of various succulent
Crassulaceae, all of which are very easy
to propagate from leaf and stem cuttings.
When an adequate root system has
formed, the new plantlets can be potted
up on their own. Remove the old leaf at
this point.
into the medium. One or more new
plants should form at the base of the
petiole. The amount of time it takes
for each species to form roots varies
with some taking weeks and others
months. The new plantlets can then
be severed from the original leafpetiole cutting. The cutting may be
left in the rooting medium and used
again to produce more plants.
Examples of plants that can be
propagated by leaf-petiole cuttings
include African violets, Peperomia,
Episcia, Hoya, and Sedum.
Split-vein
Detach a leaf from a rex begonia and
remove the petiole (the small stalk
that attaches the leaf to the stem).
Make cuts on several prominent veins
on the underside of the leaf. Lay the
cutting, lower side down, on the
medium. If the leaf starts to curls up,
hold the edges down with rooting
medium. New plants will form at
each cut.
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Layering
Layering is a method of vegetative
propagation whereby a stem of a plant
that is still attached to the plant is
induced to produce adventitious roots.
The layer is the newly formed, rooted
plant after it is severed from the parent
plant. This method is the easiest way to
root difficult or slow to propagate species
including Rhododendron, Magonolia,
Hamamelis, and Cotinus as well as many
other easier to propagate species. There
are several different types of layering. The
most commonly used types are: Simple or
Ground Layering, Tip Layering, and Air
Layering.
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up and either potted up or moved to its
new home. If you prefer to be extra
cautious, cut the new plant from its
mother and allow it to remain
undisturbed and on its own roots for a
full season before moving to a new
home.
Tip Layering
This is very similar to simple layering
except the tip of the stem is buried. The
buried stem will eventually turn upward
and break ground, roots forming at the
bend in the stem. This method is often
used for raspberries and other members
of the Rubus family.
Air Layering
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hormone. There should be about 9” of
growth about the wounded area. This
method is used most often for woody
plants such as Magonolia, Gardenia,
Camellia, Citus, roses or figs.
Whatever method is used, the wounded
area must now be enclosed in damp
sphagnum moss that has been soaked in
water for several hours and squeezed
out.
1.
Form a handful of the moss and
place it around the wounded stem.
2.
Wrap with plastic wrap. Make sure
no moss is extending beyond the
plastic wrap.
3.
If you have houseplant that has become
too tall and top heavy you might try air
Simple Layering
layering it. This is an ancient method of
propagation, believed developed by the
1. Select a young flexible branch near
Chinese centuries ago. For best results,
the ground in early spring or
select at least a pencil-sized stem in
summer.
either the spring, with the mature wood
2. Make a cut on the underside of this
from last season or late summer, with
branch with a sharp knife or razor
mature shoots from this season’s growth. 4.
blade about 12” from the tip of the
The area where the layering is to take
stem.
place should be at least 6” and no more
than 12” from the tip. Plan on making
3. Scrape away a thin sliver of bark
the cut just below a node on the stem
5.
from the stem. Conversely, a cut may and remove all leaves and twigs 3 to 4”
be made in the stem forming a thin
on either side of the layer if possible.
tongue held open with a small
There are 2 different methods of
pebble or toothpick.
wounding the bark in air layering.
4.
You can dust the cut with rooting
hormone.
5.
Loosen the soil where the wounded
branch is to lay.
6.
Anchor the branch with a wire pin to
hold it in place making sure the
exposed area of the stem is firmly in
contact with soil. A rock or brick on
top may further help hold it in place
and mark the layering so it is not
inadvertently disturbed.
Inspect from time to time, making sure
the area where the layering is taking
place is getting adequate water. After a
full season or two (depending on the
species), the layer should be ready to be
detached from the parent plant and dug
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Hold the plastic in place with
electrical tape or whatever material
you are using. Tape up the seam in
the plastic. (It is very important that
the medium remain moist but not
wet and that the only water getting
into the plastic wrapped moss is
what you put in. )
If the layering is taking place in
sunlight a loose tent of aluminum
foil can be wrapped around the ball.
Check periodically to make sure the
moss is moist. If it needs water, very
carefully open a small section of the
top and dribble in some water. Tape
back up.
Make a slanting, diagonal, upward cut
in the stem, about 1 ½” long going a
third of the way into the stem. Insert a
match or toothpick to hold the cut
open and dust with rooting hormone.
There should be at least 6” of growth
above the cut. This method is used
most often for tropical foliage plants or
for plants with less woody stems such
as Ficus or Dieffenbachia.
If you are successful, roots will appear in
the moss after several months or up to a
year depending on the species. As soon
as the rooting medium is full of roots cut
the newly rooted stem from the mother
plant just below the rooted layer.
Remove the plastic and pot up the layer
with the roots still encased in the
sphagnum moss in a suitable soilless
mix. The newly severed plant will
probably suffer some “separation
Make a 1” ring cut by scoring the stem
anxiety” so be sure to place it in a shady
with 2 parallel lines about 1” apart and
spot and water adequately until it
removing the bark in between. You
establishes its independence! It is also a
may also need to scrape the wounded
good idea to put the newly rooted and
area to insure the plant does not
potted plant into a plastic bag for a few
produce callus tissue that will form a
weeks to keep humidity levels high and
bridge over the wound and prevent
promote additional root growth.
roots from forming. Dust with rooting
Basic Plant Propagation
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off the scion from its rootstock. Both
2. Make a horizontal cut in the
plants will continue to grow. This is
under stock so that about 1/4 to
one advantage of this method as both
1/3 of the previous diagonal cut is
Many different grafting methods have
plants can grow on. In other methods,
leveled off.
been devised, but all involve uniting a
one of the plants will not.
3. On this portion, make a vertical
piece of stem (the scion) with a
When roots have formed (it may take
cut in the under stock and hold
compatible stock (the rooted plant on
a year or more), cut the new plant free
open with a knife or shim. Insert
which it will grow). The stock generally
from the parent plant and move it to
the scion so that the cambium
should be from a related plant (e.g., the
its intended location.
layers will meet. Dust with
same genus). With any grafting, it is
rooting hormone and wrap a
crucial that the cambium, or growing
Budding or Bud Graft grafting rubber tightly around the
layers, of scion and stock are aligned. It Budding or Bud Grafting is a method
stock to secure the scion in the
often
used
for
fruit
trees,
usually
from
under stock. Check to be sure
is also desirable for the stock to be
the end of June to mid-August, and
cambium layers of the scion and
larger or at least as large as the scion.
there are many, many versions.
under stock are aligned.
Many trees and shrubs that are dwarf,
Probably the method gardeners are
weeping, or have unusual color
most likely to use is "Shield Budding." 4. Cover graft with large jar or
plastic bag supported by stakes so
variegations are created by grafting. Select a side bud from the current
that the scion does not touch the
Cuttings taken from the branches that
season's growth of the desired plant,
jar, but humidity is retained for
and, using a sharp knife, remove the
exhibit a natural mutation (witches'
optimum development.
bud and a thin portion of bark and
broom, a shoot with an unusual color
cambium. This will be the scion.
5. Place in a shady spot or cover top
variegation or weeping characteristic)
Make an incision in the bark of the
of jar with paper. When scion
are grafted onto an under stock.
recipient tree (stock) in a "T" shape.
begins to grow, raise jar or plastic
Grafting is also used on plants to
Lift the bark carefully and insert the
to let in some fresh air. Check
improve the vigor of a weaker growing growth bud, then securely tie it in
carefully for any signs of wilting.
cultivar by grafting it onto a more
place with raffia or grafting rubbers
If wilting is seen, cover again
to keep it from changing position for
vigorous under stock or to produce a
completely. Gradually acclimatize
two
or
three
weeks,
after
which
it
stronger growing plant in a shorter
the graft to outside air by slowly
should
have
been
a
successful
graft.
removing covering.
amount of time. Grafting is used
Grafting
frequently on fruit trees, roses, tree
Cleft Graft
peonies, Hamamelis cultivars and other A Cleft Graft is most often used with
difficult to grow plants.
woody plants such as Camellia or fruit
trees. In this case, an under stock with
vigorous rooting tendencies is
An Approach Graft consists of two
selected. The under stock is cut off at
rooted plants, one of which will be
6" to 10" from the ground with a
grafted onto the other. Both plants are diagonal cut. The scion (selected from
rooted, but a narrow strip of bark is
the plant which is desired to be
removed from each plant at a height
perpetuated) is cut from a similar or
where the two may be conveniently
smaller piece of wood.
brought together, wound to wound. 1. Prepare the scion, removing
(The stems are sliced to expose the
excess leaves so that only 2 or 3
cambiums in equal patterns.)
remain. If leaves are very large,
Using grafting rubbers, bind the two
trim l/2 of each leaf. With a sharp
plants together with their cambium
knife, trim the bottom of the scion
layers touching. When the one being
in to "V" shape for insertion in the
used as a scion begins to grow, check
under stock.
to see if the graft is healed. If so, cut
Approach Graft
Basic Plant Propagation
A lesson from professionals:
members of a The Lenox Garden
Club learn how to graft an heirloom
peach variety ‘Highlawn Peach’ to
an under stock of Prunus persica
‘Red Haven’, part of the 2013
C e n t e n n i a l Tr e e P r o j e c t . A
horticulture workshop lead by
experts is a great way to learn
challenging forms of vegetative
propagation.
Photography by MaryEllen J. O’Brien.
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Glossary
Adventitious Roots: roots that form in parts of the plant (stems or leaves) during vegetative propagation. In
a growing plant, cells will differentiate to become root cells, stem, leaf or flower cells. When a cutting is
taken, new cells in the stem or leaf areas can become root cells, forming new roots. Rooting compounds
are used to encourage the development of these new roots.
Cambium: the green, or growing layer immediately under the bark, which carries water and nutrients to the
entire plant.
Dampening-off/Damp off: Fungal diseases that may attack seedlings.
Distal End: Refers to the root area furthest from the crown of the parent plant (opposite of Proximal End).
Double Dormancy: Multiple cold and warm stratification periods.
In Situ: Literally “in place”; here refers to planting directly in the ground where the plant is intended to grow.
Node: Area on stem where a leaf or leaves have been attached.
Polarity: This is very important with vegetative propagation. Always mark and be aware of which part of the
root, cutting or leaf cutting was growing closest to the crown of the plant or the roots; this will determine which
end is up when you stick your cutting.
Petiole: The small stalk attaching the leaf blade to the stem.
Proximal End: Refers to the root area nearest the crown of the parent plant (opposite of Distal End).
Radicle Root: The first part of a seedling to emerge from the seed during the process of germination. It is the
initial root of the plant.
Scarification: Breaking down of the impermeable outer layer of the seed coat to allow water to reach the seed.
Scion: a hardwood tip cutting containing growing points (buds) from a plant with desirable characteristics which
is grafted onto the under-stock.
Stratification: The after-ripening of a seed—can be warm or cold, to mimic the seed’s natural environment and
cause germination. Cold Stratification: After-ripening of the seed embryo brought on by a cold, moist period.
Websites:
The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center at The
University of Texas at Austin is an excellent resource
for information on native plants and topics such as
seed collecting. Plants may be searched on a master
database or by region.
Go to: www.wildflower.org/plants.
The internet offers many other sites to learn about
plant propagation, such as: www.theseedsite.co.uk,
www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort, www.hort.purdue.edu/
ext/garden_pubs.html#GeneralHort, www.hcs.ohiostate.edu/mg/manual/prop.htm#2. In addition, Master
Gardeners all over the country have excellent online
resources to help you learn more about propagating
in your area of the country.
GCA Online Links:
GCA Seed Share, GCA Members Collect, Conserve,
and Grow Sharing Seed: www.gcamerica.org/
membersonly/docs/seedexchange.htm
The Real Dirt, GCA Horticulture Committee Online
Publication: www.gcamerica.org/membersonly/docs/
hort-newsletter-archive2/index.htm
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Growing Ferns from Spores
Shirley Meneice, Carmel-by-the-Sea GC
www.gcamerica.org/membersonly/docs/hortnewsletter-archive2/03-2005-Spring/page01a01.htm
Taking the Plunge: Holding Beds that Work
By Susan Deeks, GC of Morristown
www.gcamerica.org/membersonly/docs/hortnewsletter-archive2/15-2010-Spring/page009.htm
A Cold Frame for Winter Storage of Cuttings and
Marginally Hardy Plants
By Mercer O'Hara, GC of Englewood
www.gcamerica.org/membersonly/docs/hortnewsletter-archive2/04-2005-Fall/page01b01.htm
Camellia Grafting
Barbara Tuffli, Past President of the American Camellia
Society, Woodside-Atherton GC
www.gcamerica.org/membersonly/docs/hortnewsletter-archive2/15-2010-Spring/page001.htm
Make the Cut with This Easy Workshop
Priscilla Twombly, Sasqua GC
www.gcamerica.org/membersonly/docs/hortnewsletter-archive2/03-2005-Spring/page02b01.htm
Air Layering
Sandra Kouwenhoven, Amateur GC
www.gcamerica.org/membersonly/docs/hortnewsletter-archive2/03-2005-Spring/page01c01.htm
Basic Plant Propagation
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Further Reading:
Ashworth, Suzanne, Seed to Seed: Seed-Saving Techniques for Vegetable Gardeners, 2nd rev. ed.
Bir, Richard. E., Growing and Propagating Showy Native Woody Plants. Chapel Hill (NC) and
London (GB): University of North Carolina Press. ISBN 0807843660
Bubel, Nancy, The New Seed Starters Handbook. Emmaus (PA): Rodale Press, 1988. 1988. ISBN
9780878577521
Capon, Brian, Botany for Gardeners, An Introduction and Guide. Portland (OR): Timber Press, 1990.
ISBN 0881921637
Cullina, William, Native Trees, Shrubs and Vines: A Guide to Using, Growing, and Propagating North
American Woody Plants. Boston (MA): Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2002. ISBN 0618098585
Cullina, William, The New England Wild Flower Society Guide to Growing and Propagating Wildflowers of
the United States and Canada. Boston (MA): Houghton Mifflin Co., 2000. ISBN 9780395966099
For advanced information on germination: Deno, Norman C., Seed Germination Theory and Practice,
second edition, 5th printing, 1994. Plus First and Second Supplements to the Second Edition. Selfpublished and has been available through author at 139 Lenor Dr., State College, PA 16801. See also the
article about Deno: www.rps.psu.edu/mar96/seed.html
Dirr, Michael and Heuser, Charles, Jr. The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation: From Seed to
Tissue Culture: A Practical Working Guide to the Propagation of Over 1100 Species. Cary (NC): Varsity
Press, 2006, second edition. ISBN 97809423775008. Also second edition: Portland (OR): Timber Press,
2009. ISBN 1604690046
Druse, Ken, Making More Plants, The Science, Art, and Joy of Propagation. New York (NY): Clarkson
Potter, 2000. ISBN 051770787X
Emery, Dara, Seed Propagation of Native California Plants, 3rd printing. Santa Barbara (CA): Santa
Barbara Botanic Garden, 1995. ISBN 0916436039
Gardiner, Jim, The Royal Horticultural Society, A Wisley Handbook, Propagation from Seed. London
(GB): Cassell, 1997. ISBN 0304320625
Hartmann, H. T., Kester, D. E., Davies, F. T., Geneve, R. L., Hartmann and Kester's Plant Propagation:
Principles and Practices, Upper Saddle River (NJ): Pearson / Prentice Hall, 2010. ISBN 0135014492 Basic Plant Propagation
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Further Reading (continued):
Koch, Henry, with Aird, Paul; Amrose John; and Waldron, Gerald, Growing Trees from Seed. A Practical
Guide to Growing Native Trees, Vines and Shrubs. Ontario (Canada): Firefly Books, 2008. ISBN
9781554073634
Loewer, Peter, SEEDS: The Definitive Guide to Growing, History & Lore. Portland (OR): Timber Press,
2005. ISBN 9780881926828
McClure, Susan, Smith & Hawken: Hands On Gardener: Seeds and Propagation. New York (NY):
Workman Publishing Co., 1997. ISBN 0761107339
McVicar, Jekka, Seeds: The Ultimate Guide to Growing Successfully from Seed. Guilford (CT): Globe
Pequot, 2003. ISBN 9781585748747
Midgley, Jan A. W., Native Plant Propagation. Self-published, 2006: 234 Oak Tree Trail, Wilsonville (AL) 35186. Telephone: (205) 669-4097; email: [email protected] Schmidt, Marjorie G., Growing California Native Plants. Berkeley (CA): University of California Press,1980.
ISBN 0520037626.
Toogood, Alan, Editor-in-chief (United States editor Ray Rogers), American Horticulture Society Plant
Propagation, The Fully Illustrated Plant-by-Plant Manual of Practical Techniques. New York (NY): Dorling
Kindersley Publishing, Inc., 1999. ISBN 0789441160
For out of print or used books, try: www.abebooks.com or www.amazon.com
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Basic Plant
Propagation
Basic Plant Propagation
Copies of the Basic Plant Propagation Handbook are
available for $3.00 each (includes postage) or $2.50 for
orders of 25 or more.
Ordering information is on this GCA website, under Shop,
or mail your request with your check, name and address to:
The Garden Club of America
14 East 60th Street
New York, New York 10022
Please include your name and shipping address.
This handbook was written by the
2011-2012 GCA Horticulture Committee
Edited by Dedee O’Neil, Akron Garden Club &
Carrie Waterman, Noanett Garden Club
Drawings by Martha Kemp, Piedmont Garden Club
Photographs by Carrie Waterman, Noanett Garden Club
(Unless otherwise attributed)
GCA HORTICULTURE COMMITTEE