Storage:
It is always best to install your potted plants as soon as possible if conditions are appropriate. If
conditions are not appropriate, store your plants in a location with filtered shade and good air
circulation. Be sure to check moisture levels in the pot and water accordingly at the same time every
day. If plants become over watered they will usually start to show yellowing in the leaves, if this is
observed be sure the plants are drying out between waterings.
Containerized Perennial Planting Instructions:
1. Plant first before mulching. This ensures plant roots are in
the soil and not just in the mulch. Dig a hole 1.5 - 2 times wider
than the container.
2. Carefully remove the plant from the container keeping the
soil around the roots intact. This can be accomplished by
tipping the container upside down, squeezing slightly and
lifting the container from the root ball.
3. Sometimes plants become root-bound. If your plant is like
this, use your fingers to carefully tease the fine roots away
from the tight mass and then spread the roots prior to planting
4. Planting a perennial at the right depth is critical for its health
and survival. Plant perennials at the same soil level as they
were grown in the pot.
5. Place the plant in the hole, then fill and firmly pack the hole
with the original soil, making sure there aren't any air pockets.
Insert the plant so the potting mix is not exposed to the mulch
or air, so the rootball will not dry out. Cap the potting soil with
a thin layer of natural soil to prevent moisture loss. When
planting in hard clay soil, have a bucket or wheelbarrow of rich,
loosened topsoil handy to backfill planting holes. Backfilling
with hard clay clods leaves air pockets that lead to plant death.
We highly recommend marking each plant or grouping with a
stake or pin flag for the initial maintenance period.
6. Water immediately. After the water has soaked in, spread mulch no more than 2 inches deep. Do not
incorporate mulch into the soil as this leads to poor plant performance.
7. During the first three weeks, water plantings every four days. A one-hour watering will soak more
deeply into the ground than daily 15-minute waterings. In summer increase frequency to every three
days. Once roots have grown out of the container soil and into the native soil reduce watering to once a
week. This normally takes three to four months for perennials. When plants are fully established,
watering is only necessary during dry or drought periods during summer. Fertilizer is not recommended
for use with native plants. We recommend installing an inexpensive rain gauge in your yard to keep
track of local rainfall; a general rule of thumb is that plants need approximate 1” of water per week
during establishment. If you are unsure if your plants need water simply dig a hole near the base of
your plant 4 inches deep and check soil moisture. Water stressed will plants show signs of wilting on
both old and new leaves, and are usually easy to notice. Plant that are over watered suffer from a lack
of oxygen to their roots, which manifests in yellowing leaves and wilting that often turns brown on the
tips. If your plant has wilted leaves and you know it’s had plenty of moisture, back off the watering.
Tree Planting Instructions:
1. Dig a hole 2 to 3 times wider than the container. The hole should have sloping sides like a saucer to
allow for proper root growth. The most common mistake when planting a tree is digging a hole, which is
both too deep and too narrow. Too deep and the roots don’t have access to sufficient oxygen to ensure
proper growth. Too narrow and the root structure can’t expand sufficiently to nourish and properly
anchor the tree.
2. Remove any tags and labels from the tree as these will affect the tree as it grows. You may need to
prune any broken or dead branches. Carefully remove the tree from the container keeping the soil
around the roots intact.
3. Sometimes containerized trees become root-bound or the roots look like they're about to circle the
root ball. If your tree is like this, use your fingers or a blunt instrument (to minimize root tearing) to
carefully tease the fine roots away from the tight mass and then spread the roots prior to planting.
4. Planting a tree at the right depth is critical for its health and survival. Many trees are planted too
deep, preventing their roots from receiving adequate oxygen. Find the area of the trunk that flares out
to meet the topmost roots. Make sure that the trunk flare sits above ground when the hole is filled with
soil.
5. Secure the tree in a straight position, then fill and firmly pack the hole with the original soil, making
sure there aren't any air
pockets. Keep backfilling until
the soil is just below the root
flare.
6. Create a water-holding basin
around the hole and give the
tree a good watering. After the
water has soaked in, spread
protective mulch 2–4 inches
deep in a 3-foot diameter area
around the base of the tree,
but not touching the trunk.
7. The soil and mulch around
your trees should be kept
moist but not soggy. During dry
weather, generously water the
tree every 7 to 10 days during
the first year. Fertilizer is not
recommended.
Weed Management:
1. We recommend dressing beds with 2" of mulch in the spring which will help to retain moisture and
suppress weeds. In small, designed spaces you will need to hand weed, just as you would in any
perennial garden. Your plants will tend to migrate around; herbaceous weeds and woody plants will
invade. Hand weeding will be necessary to maintain the integrity of the design. Highly invasive noxious
weeds can often be nearly impossible to remove by hand. If you are unable to remove the entire root
system including stolons and rhizomes it may be necessary to spot treat, using a systemic herbicide to
eradicate the weed in question. Herbicides should be applied with great care to avoid damage to
desirable vegetation, and consideration should be given to chemical selection in regards to the target
and non-target plants. Always read the herbicide label before use. We strongly encourage organic
methods whenever possible in maintaining native landscapes, however after 17 years of experience
controlling invasive plants, we realize this is not always possible.
Deer Management:
1. Use plants that are unpalatable to deer with the understanding that a starving deer will eat almost
anything.
2. In areas with high deer pressure, we recommend using a product such as "Liquid Fence" that will
deter deer and rabbits from browsing. This product contains putrefied eggs and garlic and is sprayed on
the foliage of plants usually once a month. Always follow manufacturers label recommendations.
3. For trees and shrubs we recommend using 5' - 6' welded wire fencing to construct a circular "deer
cage" measuring approximately 5' in diameter. A heavy duty t-post should be used to anchor the cage,
and a small hole should be cut in the bottom of one side. This significantly decreases the chances of
small rodents using the cage as a "safe haven" because they feel vulnerable to predators. (See below.)