Heated Oxygen Sensor Conversion Kit Installation
by
Sean Wall A.K.A. Fastbird
Included Items:
Passenger Side Conversion Harness ( long one)
Driver Side Conversion Harness (not so long one)
2 x 30 Amp Fuses for the power leads
Items installed on the harnesses:
Ring terminal on each ground wire
Weatherproof in-line fuse socket and fuse
Items/Tools for Install:
Wire Cutters/Strippers
Paperclip or very small screwdriver
Soldering Gun (optional)
Lighter
Zip Ties
Electrical Tape
7/8” wrench for O2 removal and installation
Parts that need to be ordered:
GM 4 Wire Oxygen Sensors, GM part number 25312184 – these are currently
available at www.gmpartsdirect.com for $42.08 or you can call up Jason Cromer @ Sam
Taylor Buick Cadillac in Ft. Walton Beach FL (877-726-8295 ask for parts then for
Jason) where you can probably pay the same but DEFINITELY receive them faster.
If anything is noticed to be damaged or mission please contact me ASAP at (609)
792-5995 or [email protected]. I guarantee my work and will to everything I
can to make you happy.
So lets get started. If you have this kit in your hands, you obviously know what it’s for.
I’ve done my best to make a plug and play kit for you, so the only connection you have to
make is the power and ground connections at the fuse block and radiator cross brace.
1. Installation and Routing of Conversion Harness
Routing the wires is completely up to you. I’ll do my best to explain how I had mine
routed, but each car is going to have it’s own specific needs based on setup
The longer of the two conversion harnesses is for the passenger side of the car. Between
the length of the harness and the length of the harness that comes with the new O2
sensors there should be plenty of length for Long Tube headers. Tip: To make it easier,
install your O2 sensor into the exhaust and connect all connections. This way you can
route any extra wiring forward where it’s easier to tie off and hide and less likely to be
damaged by heat or moving parts.
On the passenger side, I zip tied the harness to the side/frame of the car and routed it
forward (being mindful of the headers) to the K-Member. Once at the K-member, I went
over the top side of it, and then directly to the driver side of the car via the front of the KMember zip tying along the way. Once on the passenger side of the car I took the wiring
up along the wheel well and went BEHIND the ABS Lines and ABS Box. After passing
the ABS equipment I took the wires along the wheel well to the fuse box/Radiator cross
member for each connection.
On the drivers side, I kept the wires along the side of the car until I got to the firewall,
then went up the firewall and underneath the steering shaft (look for the electrical lines
and hard lines) and behind all the wires, around the wheel well behind the ABS
equipment, and to the fuse box and radiator cross member.
2. Wiring the Power and Ground Connection
The ground connections are easy. You should have a bolt on the radiator cross member
directly to the right side (looking at car from front) of the radiator shroud. Ground the
conversion harnesses here as shown in the pic:
The power connections however are a bit more involved. The directions below are for a
“hard wire” into the car. I see no reason to take a chance on having a wire pressed into a
fuse socket with an ability to work it’s way loose.
Remove the cover to your fuse box and full all the fuses on the right side (again, looking
at car from front) as shown:
On the bottom right side of the fuse box there is a little plastic tab sticking up. Push that
tab down and slide the fuse box to the left to remove from the mount. Flip the fuse box
over and remove the bottom cover panel by depressing each tab along the bottom edge of
the fuse box.
Once the bottom cover is removed, locate the row where you removed the fuses. This
should be the outermost row depending on which way you have the fuse box oriented.
There will be a single orange wire going to a connection strip with three connectors for
the fuses and two open wire connectors as shown below:
As I already have the power leads connected which is explained below. To remove the
terminal strip, each of the three connectors for the fuses has a very small retainer tab on
each side. You need to insert a paper clip or very small screwdriver in from the top on
the OUTSIDE of the terminals to depress these and allow the removal of the strip. You
can see the retainers in the picture below:
Looking at the above picture, you can see the center of each terminal is where the fuse
goes, and on the outside you can see the retainers bent slightly outwards. This is what
you need to bend in to free the terminal strip.
Once you have the strip out, you’ll only have a single orange wire on the center terminal
connected. THIS IS A SWITCHED 12V POWER SOURCE AND IS NOT HOT. The
other two terminals like where the orange wire is connected are GREAT spots for
attaching each conversion harnesses power lead. Simply strip slightly more than onequarter inch of shielding off of the power end of the wire, insert into the connector, and
crimp. You can do like I did and solder the connection for a fail-safe, but it is NOT
mandatory if you get a good crimp.
To reinstall the terminal strip. remember those retainers you bent in?? You need to bend
them back out a little, and then slide the terminal strip back into place. Give a tug once
it’s in to make sure it’s secure. Then take the power leads for the conversion harnesses
and route them along the bottom of the box and out the left side (as installed). Reinstall
the bottom cover over the wires and slide the fuse box back into the mounting plate.
That should be about it. You can test the wiring to make sure it’s getting power by
removing the fuses from the harness power leads and keying the ignition on and using a
voltmeter to check for power. If you do NOT get power, check your connections and the
wiring for damage/breaks.
That should be it. Thanks for the purchase, and I hope this kit was up to your
expectations. Please feel free to contact me if you have questions or concerns.
If you purchased this kit for a 1993 Firebird or Camaro, please swing by
www.speeddensity.org if you’re not already a member. It’s a 93 Specific website that
has a lot of great members who celebrate the unique things about the debut year of the 4th
gen F-Body.