1.01 Remember the apparel industry – Study Guide
ESSENTIAL QUESTIONS:
1. What were the influences that affected the fashion industry during the Industrial Revolution?
2. What inventions were significant for the apparel industry during the 19th century?
3. Which fashion designers were most influential during the 19th and 20th centuries?
4. How has the internet and fast fashion affected the fashion industry?
A. Industrial Revolution
1. Flying shuttle- Flying Shuttle was one of the key developments in the industrialization of
weaving. It allowed a single weaver to weave much wider fabrics, and it could be mechanized,
allowing for automatic machine looms.
2. Spinning Jenny- is a multi-spindle spinning frame. It was invented in 1764 by James
Hargreaves. The device reduced the amount of work needed to produce yarn, with a worker able
to work eight or more spools at once.
3. Cotton Gin- a machine that automated the separation of cottonseed from the short-staple cotton
fiber. Eli Whitney was the inventor of the cotton gin and a pioneer in the mass production of
cotton.
4. Spinning Mule- machine used to spin cotton and other fibers in the mills. Samuel Crompton
invented the spinning mule or mule jenny in 1779. The spinning mule spins textile fibers into
yarn by an intermittent process.
5. Elias Howe- was an American inventor and sewing machine pioneer.
B. 19th Century
1. Sewing Machine- Elias Howe for "a process that used thread from two different sources."
2. Paper Pattern- A pattern in sewing and fashion design is the paper or cardboard template from
which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting out and assembling.
3. Ready-to-wear- Opposite of Haute Couture-term for factory-made clothing, sold in finished
condition, and in standardized sizes.
4. Ebenezer Butterick- Father of home sewing paper patterns
5. Charles Worth- a fashion designer who is widely considered Father of Haute Couture
6. Levi Strauss- the inventor of the quintessential American garment, the blue jean.
C. 20th Century
1. Standardized sizes- a sizing system which the entire industry could follow based on statistical
data
2. WWI & WWII- World War I 1914-1918- The wartime economy, the change in population
demographics, the expanding domestic economy (with more people working), and the shift to
women in the workforce all had a tremendous impact on fashion. World War II 1939-1945 The
government found it necessary to ration food, gas, and even clothing during that time.
3. Christian Dior- a French fashion designer whom is one of the most important couturiers of the
twentieth century. In 1947, he launched his first collection which featured the “New Look”.
4. Coco Chanel- A famous French Fashion designer. Chanel popularized the “little black dress”
A. 21st Century
1. Internet- globalized fashion
2. Fast Fashion- contemporary term used by fashion retailers to express that designs move from
catwalk quickly in order to capture current fashion trends.
1.02 Understand apparel design – Study Guide
ESSENTIAL QUESTIONS:
1. What are the elements of design and how are they applied in the apparel design?
2. What are the principles of design and how are they used in designing a garment?
3. How is technology used in the fashion design industry?
4. How are croquis’ used in the apparel design process?
OUTLINE:
A. Elements of Design
1. Color- the hue most people see. Terms associated:
a. Primary Colors-Red, yellow and blue - basic colors from which all colors are made
b. Secondary Colors-Combining equal amounts of 2 primary colors
c. Intermediate Colors-Combining a primary color with a neighboring secondary color
d. Neutral Colors-Non-pigmented colors – used to change value and intensity of other
colors
e. Cool Colors-Blue, green and violet, colors of water
f. Warm Colors-Red, orange, yellow, colors of fire
g. Shade-A color plus black
h. Tint-Color plus white
i. Value-Lightness or darkness of a color
j. Color schemes: combing certain colors to create an affect
i. Analogous Color Scheme-Colors side by side on the color wheel
ii. Complementary Color Scheme-Colors directly opposite of each other on a color
wheel
iii. Monochromatic Color Scheme-Uses values and intensities of just one color
iv. Split Complementary-One color used with two colors on each side of its direct
complement
v. Triadic Color Scheme-Three colors equally distant from each other on the color
wheel
2. Line- Series of dots connected together
a. Horizontal Line-Eye moves side to side, makes you appear shorter and wider
b. Vertical Line-Make someone appear tall and skinny- up and down
i. Diagonal Line-Slanted lines that add movement and excitement to clothing
c. Curved Line-Bending line without angles – feminine
3. Shape/form- Shape-Outline, or silhouette (The shape of a persons body created by wearing
clothing of a particular style or period) of garment
a. Bell Shape-Both diagonal and horizontal lines combine in the silhouette. Cut height and
add contour to a figure
b. Full Shape-More horizontal and curved lines, make the body look larger
c. Natural Shape-Follows your body’s outline, most classic and is worn most easily on
average body sizes
d. Tubular Shape-Rectangular with vertical emphasis, add height and thinness to the body
4. Texture- How it looks and feels
B. Principles of Design
1. Balancea. Symmetrical: Everything is balanced- divided into equal parts
b. Asymmetrical: When a garment is divided into unequal parts
2. Proportion- How separate parts of a garment relate to each other and to the whole in size
3. Rhythm- Created when one or more elements are used repeatedly to create a feeling or organized
movement
a. Gradation: A pattern changes gradually, size or color – small to large
b. Radiation: Lines and patterns flow from a central location
c. Repetition: A pattern repeats, as with rows of stripes
4. Emphasis- Focal point- drawing attention to area
C. Design Process
1. Croquis- First rough sketch of a garment design
2. CAD- Computer Aided Design-Software used to combine and visualize design ideas and to
make patterns and prepare them for cutting
Technology- Used to create new fibers, fabrics, and make clothing easier to mass produce
2.01 Understand fibers, fabrics, and finishes – Study Guide
ESSENTIAL QUESTIONS
1. What are the characteristics of fibers to be considered when producing apparel?
2. What are the characteristics of natural fibers?
3. What are the characteristics of manufactured fibers?
4. Why should fabric construction methods be considered when producing apparel?
5. What are the types of weaves?
6. What are the types of knits and how are they constructed?
7. Why are the methods for adding color to fabric?
OUTLINE
A. Characteristics
1. Abrasion resistance- a worn spot that can develop when fibers rub against something. (Pillingtiny balls of fiber on the fabric.)
2. Absorbency-ability to take in moisture
3. Durability- refers to how long you will be able to wear or use a particular garment or item
4. Elasticity- the ability to increase in length when under tension (elongation) and then return to the
original length when released (recovery)
5. Hand- the way a fiber, yarn, or fabric feels when handled
6. Resiliency- able to spring or bounce back into shape after crushing or wrinkling
7. Strength- ability to withstand tension or pulling
8. Warmth- ability of a fiber to maintain body heat of wearer
9. Wicking- ability to draw moisture away from the body so the moisture can evaporate.
B. Fibers
1. Natural- occurs naturally
a. Cellulosic- comes from plants and plant sources
i. Cotton-cotton plant
+: Soft, absorbent, and comfortable, Absorbs perspiration quickly, Strong and
durable, Inexpensive, Does not pill, Blends well
-: Molds and mildews, Shrinks, Wrinkles easily
ii. Flax/linen: plant comes from the Flax plant, Oldest fiber
+: Cool and comfortable, Strong, durable and lustrous
-: Wrinkles easily
b. Protein- comes from animals
i. Wool- comes from sheep
+: Hard wearing and absorbs moisture, Natural insulator, Does not wrinkle easily,
Traps odors, Flame resistant
-: Eaten by moths
ii. Silk
+: Versatile and very comfortable, Absorbs moisture, Cool to wear in the summer
yet warm to wear in winter, Can be easily dyed, Retains its shape and is relatively
smooth, Strongest natural fiber and is lustrous
-: EXPENSIVE, Poor resistance to sunlight exposure
c. Specialty Hair
i. Angora- comes from angora rabbit hair
ii. Mohair- comes from angora GOAT hair
iii. Cashmere- comes from cashmere Goats
2. Manufactured- made in a factory
a. Cellulosic- Made from cellulose – the fibrous substance in plant life
i. Acetate
ii. Lyocell
iii. Rayon
b. Non-cellulosic- Made by combining molecules of nitrogen, oxygen, hydrogen, and
carbon
i. Nylon- used to make hosiery and ‘wind suits’
ii. Olefin- often used in carpets
iii. Polyester- #1 blended fiber, doesn’t wrinkle
iv. Spandex- Stretches GREATLY
C. Fabric Construction
1. Weaves- interlacing one or more sets of yarns at right angles on a loom
a. Plain- The simplest weave in which the weft (crosswise) yarn is passed over then under
each warp (lengthwise) yarn (EX: chiffon, gingham, seersucker, taffeta)
b. Twill- A very strong weave in which the weft yarn is passed over and under one, two, or
three warp yarns (EX: denim, chino, gabardine)
c. Satin- A very weak weave that produces a smooth, shiny-surfaced fabric resulting from
passing the weft yarn over and under numerous warp yarns to create long floats. (EX:
sateen, satin)
d. Pile- made on a loom, like most types of weaves are made. The difference is that loops
are created. These loops can either be left uncut, like in towels, or can be cut to uniform
lengths, like in velvet fabric. (EX: Velvet, Corduroy, Terrycloth, and Velveteen)
2. Knits- the process of pulling loops of yarns through other loops to create interlocking rows of
stitches
a. Weft: knit made with only one yarn
i. Jersey knits – most common type, curls at edges, used for t-shirts, sweaters and
tights/hosiery
ii. Rib knits – have vertical “ribs” (columns of stitches), used for neck, wrist and
bottom bands of sweatshirts & jackets
iii. Double knits – two yarns and two needles are used resulting in heavier, sturdier
knits that don’t run or ravel
b. Warp: a knit made with several yarns on flat knitting machines. Multiple yarns are
looped together to produce a run-resistant knitted fabric
i. Tricot knits – stable knits that lie flat and don’t run or ravel, made on very fast
tricot knitting machines, used for lingerie, underwear and uniforms
ii. Raschel knits – an extra yarn is used to create a patterned design in these knits,
used for lacy knits, thermal underwear and bathing suits
c. Seamless- knitting involves the production of a whole garment in one piece on a knitting
machine so that little or no sewing is required
D. Non-wovens: Made from fibers, not yarns that are held together by a combination of moisture, heat,
chemicals and/or pressure. They have no grain line, limited stretch, inexpensive, often disposable (EX:
Interfacings, Batting for quilts, Felt, Disposable products, Medical products
E. Finishes
1. Dyeing- A method of giving color to textiles using coloring agents called dyes
a. Fiber dyeing- Involves dyeing the fibers before they are spun into yarns. Advantages
include: Good colorfastness, Uniform color throughout fiber, Clear, rich colors
b. Yarn dyeing- Involves dyeing the yarns before weaving or knitting them into fabric.
Advantages include: Good color absorption (Fabric examples: plaids, checks, stripes)
c. Piece dyeing- Involves dyeing the fabric after it is woven or knitted. (Fabric examples:
solid colored garments, ‘heathered’ garments
i. Advantages include: Most common dyeing method, Lease expensive, Very fast
ii. Disadvantages include: Mostly solid colors, Less dye penetration into the fibers
and yarns
d. Garment dyeing- Involves dyeing the garments to fill retail orders for requested colors.
Advantages include: This method is gaining in popularity, Garment producers can wait
and dye only the colors ordered by stores.
2. Printing- A process for adding color, pattern or design to the surface of fabric. It is done on the
right side of the fabric with the wrong side being unprinted or much lighter than the right side.
a. Roller printing- Color for the design is applied to fabric as it goes through a series of
rollers. Rollers are engraved (carved) with the design to be printed. Each color has a
different roller.
i. Advantages include: Simple and fast, Inexpensive, Most common printing method
b. Screen printing- Done on flat screen frames and is similar to stenciling. Each color has its
own screen.
i. Advantages include: Good for large designs, Better quality designs than roller
printing method
ii. Disadvantages include: Slow printing method
c. Rotary screen printing- A combination of roller and screen printing. Dye is transferred
through screens that roll over the fabric.
i. Advantages include: Can print large designs, Accurate and fast, This method is
gaining in popularity.
d. Heat transfer printing- The desired dyes and patterns are placed onto paper using a rotary
screen printer. The paper is placed on the fabric and with heat and pressure the colors
and patterns are transferred to the fabric. T-shirts are printed using this method. Like a
“temporary tattoo” for fabric.
e. Digital printing- The newest method of fabric printing. It is like ink-jet printing with a
computer but rolls the fabric through an extra-wide printer. Droplets of color are “spit”
onto the fabric.
i. Advantages include: Fast, Inexpensive, Environmentally safe, Can print small or
large amounts of fabric at the same time
2.02 Understand care of textile products – Study Guide
ESSENTIAL QUESTIONS
1. What is the correct laundry care technique for different types of fabrics?
2. What types of laundry products are available?
3. What are the environmental concerns of laundry products?
4. What type of information is found on a care label?
OUTLINE
A. Products, processes, and environmental concerns
1. Care techniques
a. Sorting- grouping clothing into piles according to how you will launder them
b. Pretreating- any special attention you give a garment before laundering
c. Machine Washing- using a washing machine to clean
d. Hand Washing- washing by hand (NOT in a machine)
e. Drying Clothes- process of getting your wet clothes dry
i. tumble drying – drying clothes in an automatic dryer
ii. line drying – hanging up washed clothes (usually on a clothesline) to dry
iii. flat drying – drying a washed garment by first rolling the garment in a towel and
pressing the water out, then laying the garment out flat on a clean, dry surface
2. Laundry detergents
a. Fragrance and dye free detergents- Detergents used for sensitive skin
b. Light-duty detergents- Detergents for lightly soiled and delicate fabrics and baby clothes
c. HE (high- efficiency) detergents- Detergents formulated to be low-sudsing and quick
dispersing
3. Soil and stain removers
a. Prewash soil –and- stain removers- Products that help remove oily stains and heavy soil
from fabrics
b. Enzyme presoaks- A laundry product specially formulated to help remove stains before
washing
4. Laundry bleaches- product used with detergents to remove stains, whiten, and brighten 100%
cotton fabrics
a. Chlorine bleach- Removes stains, disinfects, whitens and brightens fabrics. Use with
caution and check care label
b. Non-chlorine Bleach- Removes stains, whitens and brightens colored fabrics
5. Other Laundry Products
a. Fabric Softeners- (can be liquid and used in the washing machine or dry sheets used in
the dryer) reduce static, make fabrics softer, and reduce wrinkling
b. Water softeners- A product or device used to soften water
B. Permanent Care Labeling Rule
6. Fiber Content- lists which fibers were used in that garment
7. Percentage of fiber by weight- lists the percentage each fiber was used from highest to lowest (all
totaling 100%)
8. Identification of manufacturer- tells you which company manufactured that garment
9. Country of origin- tells you what country that garment was made in
10. Care instructions/Symbol- tells you how to properly launder the garment
3.01 Understand body measurements, sizing, and patterns. – Study Guide
ESSENTIAL QUESTIONS
1. Which body measurements are used to construct men’s apparel?
2. Which body measurements are used to construct women’s apparel?
3. What is the correct technique for taking body measurements?
4. How are body measurements used to determine a pattern size?
5. What are the indicators of proper garment fit?
6. What are the parts of the pattern?
7. What are the pattern symbols and how are they used in garment construction?
8. What are the sections of a guide sheet and how are they used?
OUTLINE:
A. Evaluating Proper Fit
1. Body Measurements
a. Male:
i. Chest- at the fullest part
ii. Waist- at the smallest part
iii. Inseam- from the undersize of the crotch to desired hem length
iv. Hips- at the widest part
v. Neck band- measurement around the base of the neck plus ½”
vi. Arm length- from the prominent bone at the base of the neck around a slightly
bent elbow to the wrist bone
b. Female:
i. Back Waist Lengthii. Bust- at the fullest part
iii. Waist- at the smallest part of the waistline (natural waistline)
iv. Hips- at the widest part
c. Determine Pattern Size- Compare your measurement to a size chart in the textbook, on a
pattern or in a pattern catalog
2. Indicators of Proper Fit
a. Shirts and blouses- Bust
b. Jackets and suitsc. Jeans and slacksd. Dresses (Bust) and skirts (Waist)
B. Understanding Patterns
1. Pattern Envelope
a. Photo- shows what the garment will look like
b. Pattern Number #- four digit code that helps identify the envelope when looking for it in
the store
c. Cost- the price of the pattern
d. Sizes Available- what sizes you can make in that pattern
e. Suggested Fabrics- for the ‘best’ outcome, use these fabrics to make the garment
f. Notions- all the ‘extra’ items you need to create that garment (EX: buttons, zipper,
ribbon, etc.)
g. Yardage- how many yards of fabric you need to make that garment
h. Measurements /size- size chart for you to use to ensure you construct the right side
i. Sketch- a drawing of the garment (often all view and in different colors and fabric
designs)
2. Pattern Symbols
a. Grain line- Indicates the placement of pattern piece on the fabric grain. Grain line must
be placed exactly parallel to the selvage.
b. Cutting Line- generally is the solid line
c. Place on Fold- Double arrowed bracket symbol that indicates the solid line be placed on
the fold of the fabric.
d. Dart-stitch and fold- Triangular folds of fabric used to control fullness. Fold on the solid
line, stitch on the broken lines.
e. Adjustment line- Indicates where pattern can be lengthened or shortened.
3. Guide-sheet
a. View Selections- shows the different ‘garments’ (often slight varations of a main one or
different lengths)
b. Pattern Pieces to Use- tells you the patterns numbers you need to construct that garment
c. Cutting Layouts- shows how to layout the pattern pieces to fit on you fabric
d. Folds/selvages- shows which way the fabric should be folded
i. Lengthwise fold- Fold fabric in half lengthwise with right sides together. As
fabric comes off bolt at store. Fold should form cut/raw edge to cut/raw edge.
“Hot Dog Fold”
ii. Crosswise Fold- Fold fabric in half crosswise with right sides together. Fold
should be from selvage to selvage. “Hamburger Fold”
iii. Double (Center) Fold- Fold fabric twice along the lengthwise grain, right sides
together. Selvages should meet in the middle
iv. Partial- Fold fabric on the lengthwise grain, right sides together, only wide
enough to fit the widest pattern piece that is to be placed on fold.
e. Pin/Cut/Mark- pattern pieces have symbols to display where to cut and mark
3.02 Understand tools and equipment
ESSENTIAL QUESTIONS
1. What are the categories of small sewing tools and their use?
2. What are the parts of a sewing machine and their functions?
3. What are the parts of a serger and their functions?
OUTLINE
A. Apparel Construction Tools and Equipment
1. Tools
a. Measuring
i. Tape Measure- Taking Body Measurements, Measure Fabric, Measure Pattern
Pieces
ii. Sewing or Seam Gauge- Measuring seam allowances & hems
iii. Yard Stick- Measuring skirt hems & tasks requiring long, rigid measure
iv. Transparent Ruler- Measuring & marking- Buttonholes, Pleats, Tucks, Bias
strips
v. Hem Gauge- Marks straight & curved hems
vi. Skirt Marker- Measure & mark hemlines with either pins or chalk
b. Pinning
i. Silk Pins- Made of stainless steel or brass, Used with most fabrics. They are used
to hold fabric pieces together.
ii. Ballpoint Pins- Silk pin with a rounded point to enable pin to slip easily between
strands of yarn. The purpose is to prevent snags on fabric.
iii. Ball-headed Pins- Hold fabric pieces together. Pins with colorful glass or plastic
heads that are easy to pick up
iv. T-Pins- have a head bent into the shape of a capital letter T, making them also
easier to grasp and see.
v. Pincushion (w/emery)- Provide a safe way to store pins for convenience. They
come in many colors & shapes. To sharpen a dull pin, stick the pin in & out of the
emery.
c. Cutting
i. Dressmaker Shears- Bent handle allows fabric to lie flat while cutting. Usually 7
t0 8 inches
ii. Sewing Scissors- Small round handles, Blade usually 4 to 6 inches, Good for
detail work: Clipping curves, Corners
iii. Pinking Shears- Zigzag edge that: Finishes raw edge of seam, Helps prevent
raveling, Not for cutting out pattern pieces.
iv. Embroidery Scissors- 3 to 4 inches in length, Very pointed tip, Used for cutting:
Buttonholes, Trimming embroidery threads
v. Seam Ripper- Removes stitches with small blade. Blade lifts the tread away from
the fabric before cutting.
vi. Thread Clipper- Spring-action blades that clips thread ends
vii. Rotary Cutter- Round retractable blade resembling a pizza cutter. Makes straight
clean cuts through multiple layers of fabric. Must be used with a special “selfhealing” cutting mat.
d. Marking
i. Fabric Marking Pen- Marks: Notches, Darts, Circles, Squares. Disappears with
water or evaporates after 48 hours.
ii. Tracing Wheel- Marks pattern symbols onto fabric. Use a smooth edged wheel for
delicate fabrics. Use a saw-toothed wheel for most other fabrics. Special waxed
carbon paper for tracing is available in many colors.
iii. Tailor’s Chalk- Mark pattern symbols onto fabric. Small square or pencils will
mark most fabrics. Markings can be brushed away or will disappear when pressed
with an iron.
iv. Thread- Mark pattern symbols. Make simple hand-sewn stitches to mark
construction lines on fabric.
e. Stitching (Sewing)
i. Hand Sewing Needles- Needles vary in size from: 1- for (Course fabrics) 12- for
(Fine fabrics). Purpose: Basting, Hemming. Applying fasteners, Buttons,
Snaps/Hook & eyes
ii. Thimble- Metal or plastic tool to protect finger while hand sewing. Available in
different sizes. Indentions in thimble help hold needle while pushing the needle
through fabric.
iii. Needle Threader- Small tool with thin wire to aid in threading a needle.
iv. Bodkin- Resembles a large, blunt needle. Purpose: Pulls cord or elastic through
casings
v. Pointer- Wooden tool with a pointed end for pushing out sharp corners on collars.
Rounded edge is used for holding seam open while pressing.
vi. Loop Turner- A long metal rod with a hook. Purpose: Turns bias tubing and
casings right side out.
f. Pressingi. Iron- Metal appliance used to press & steam fabrics during and after construction.
ii. Ironing Board- Level & sturdy surface with tight fitting cover & smooth padding
iii. Press Cloth- Purpose: Lightweight cloth for pressing fabrics. Prevents – iron shine
or glossy marking & scorching on certain fabrics.
iv. Tailor’s Ham- A firm round cushion used to press curved areas of a garment
v. Sleeve Board- Small ironing board around 20 inches long. Purpose: Press narrow
areas such as sleeves.
vi. Seam Roll- Long firm tubular cushion Purpose: Used for dressing long seams and
small curved areas.
vii. Point Presser- A narrow wooden surface with a pointed end. Purpose: Pressing
collar points, Curved & straight edges
2. Equipment
a. Sewing machine- a machine with a mechanically driven needle for sewing or stitching
cloth.
b. Serger- a sewing machine used for overcasting to prevent material from fraying at the
edge. It stitches, trims the edge, and finishes the fabric to give you a commercial finish
3.03 Understand engineering and construction.
ESSENTIAL QUESTIONS
4. What are the different seams and seam finishes and their purpose?
5. How are basic seams and seam finishes constructed?
6. What are the machine stitching techniques and their application?
7. How is bulk reduced in seams?
8. How is fullness controlled in apparel?
9. What are the different types of interfacing, characteristics, and application?
10. What are the different hem applications and how do you apply them in apparel?
11. What are the different fasteners used in constructing apparel and their proper application?
OUTLINE
A. Characteristics and Types of Stitches
1. Characteristics
a.Standard Stitching Used for permanent seams & construction details. In most fabrics, standard
stitching length is 10 to 12 inches. In finer fabrics, standard stitching is a short stitch between
12 to 15 stitches per inch. In heavy fabrics, standard stitching is a longer stitch, 8 to 10
stitches per inch.
b.Basting- holds two pieces of fabric together until they are permanently stitched. Machine
basting is also used on a single layer of fabric for: easing, gathering, and marking guidelines.
c.Reinforcement Stitching- adds strength to areas that will be clipped or trimmed close to the
stitching line or areas of high stress such as armhole, crotch and corners. There are 15 to 20
stitches per inch in a reinforced stitch.
2.Types of Machine Stitching
a. Stay-stitching- Stay-stitching prevents fabric stretching. Stay-stitching is placed along bias &
curved edges. Stay-stitching is added after: fabric marking, before pinning, basting or
permanent stitching.
b. Standard Seam Stitching- Standard seam stitching produces a 5/8 inch seam. Standard seam
stitching is used in most patterns.
c. Backstitching- Backstitching secures the ends of a row of stitching. To backstitch, begin ½
inch in from the end and stitch backward to the edge of the fabric. Continue sewing to other
end and backstitch ½ from the end.
d. Understitching- Under stitching keeps facing, or the under side of the fabric rolled out of
sight. Under stitching is created from standard stitching. Stitch from right side of fabric
through facing & seam allowances, 1/8 inch from seam line.
e. Topstitching- Topstitching is decorative or functional stitching placed on the outside of a
garment. Topstitching outlines seams, secures facings, attaches pockets, stitches pleats, and
holds hems.
f. Edgestitching- Edgestitching holds fabric & seams in place. It is produced by stitching ¼
from finished edge. Edgestitching is used in areas such as neck edges and zippers.
g. Stitch-in-the-ditch- Edgestitching holds fabric & seams in place. It is produced by stitching
¼ from finished edge. Edgestitching is used in areas such as neck edges and zippers.
h. Zigzag Stitching- Zigzag stitching is used to finish seams, stitch buttonholes; attach cording
& elastic and creating decorative designs.
i. Specialty Stitches- Most sewing machines have a variety of speciality stitches. Speciality
stitches add a decorative aspect to a garment and can be created by a serger or sewing
machine.
B. Seams and Seam Finishes- Any method that stitches or trims seam allowances to prevent fraying,
improve strength and apparel appearance.
1.Plain seam- The most common seam. Suitable for all areas of a garment. Not suitable for shear &
lace fabrics.
2.Flat-felled seam- Self Finished Seam, Decorative, Strong, Functional, Great choice whenever raw
edges are not desirable. Great seam finish for denim.
3.French seam- Self Finished Seam, Used on fabrics that ravel easily, Used so no raw edges will
show, Suitable for sheer fabrics.
4.Pinked and stitched seam finish- Used on firmly woven fabrics. Extra row of stitching provides
protection from raveling.
5.Zigzag seam finish- Fast, easy and quick seam finish for most fabrics. Great for knit fabrics.
6.Overlock (Serged) seam finish- Great finish for most fabrics, especially knits. Used widely in the
production of apparel.
7.Turned and stitched finish- Also called hemmed or clean edge seam. Forms a narrow, single-fold
hem along the edges of the seam allowance. Quick and neat method. Great seam finish for lightweight to medium-weight fabrics.
C. Reducing Bulk
1. Trimming- For lightweight fabrics, Seam allowances of enclosed seams should be trimmed to an
even width, usually ¼ inch. The corner of seam should be trimmed diagonally to remove extra
thickness when the corner is turned. If the corner is very pointed, make an additional diagonal
cut on each side of the point, trimming to 1/8 inch.
2.Grading- For heavier fabrics or places with three layers of fabric. Such as collars, cuffs etc.
Always grade a seam allowance so that the widest seam allowance next to the outside of the
garment. Trim to a ¼ inch and then grade to 1/8 inch.
3.Clipping- Means to make tiny clips or snips in the seam allowance every ¼ “ to ½ “. On an inward
curve. Using the point of the scissors, clip to within 1/8 inch of the seam line or up to the
staystitching line.
4.Notching- Means cutting tiny wedge-shaped pieces of fabric from the seam allowances. Notch on
outside curves. Notch no closer than 1/8 inch to the seam line.
D. Controlling Fullness
1.Darts- Triangular folds of fabric stitched to a point. Used as a shaping device to control fullness.
Point to the fullest part of the body. Two basic types, single pointed and double pointed darts.
2.Casings- Fabric used to enclose drawstrings or elastic, Made be used at waistlines, sleeve edges,
necklines, & hemlines. Two types: Self-casing & Applied Casings.
3.Easing- Used when two edges of fabric are slightly larger than the other. Should not cause visible
gathers or pleats. Should create a smooth seam. Use for set-in sleeves, joining shoulder seams,
attaching waistbands and extra fullness in hems.
4.Gathering- Tiny, soft folds of fabric formed when a larger piece of fabric is sewn to a smaller
piece. Use for puffed sleeves, gathered skirts.
E. Interfacing- Interfacing is a textile used on the unseen or "wrong" side of fabrics to make an area of a
garment or apparel item more rigid. Adds shape & firmness to outer fabric, can add body to a belt, bag,
or hat, and prevents stretching. It is used in collars, cuffs, lapels, facings, waistbands, & under buttons
& buttonholes. Choose one that is the same to lighter in weight than the fabric it is being applied to.
1.Fusible- fused (dots of dried glue that ‘melts’ when heat is applied) to facings with the heat of the
iron.
2.Non-fusible (Sew-in)– is usually applied to the wrong side of the garment or facing.
F. Hems- A properly sewn hem: Hang straight & even, Parallel to the floor, and All fullness be eased in
and sewn smoothly
1.Applying hems (marking, finishing, removing fullness, finishing)
a. Mark the hem length
b. Turn the hem up and press
c. Finish the hem edge
d. Attach the hem
2.Machine- It is the quickest, permanent hemming method. Most common methods are Topstitched,
Turned & Stitched, Machine Blind Hem, and Rolled Hem.
a. Topstitched: Used to attach a hem and decorate at the same time (the stitching shows, just
like any topstitching).
b. Turned and stitched- Looks like a topstitched hem, but the amount of fabric turned up is very
small (1/4”and usually found at the bottom of a man’s shirt).
c. Machine Blind Hem- Used for most commercially hemmed garments, Uses the blind hem
foot. Virtually invisible.
3.Hand- The stitches should be: evenly spaced, loose enough that the fabric does not pucker, almost
invisible, sewn with a single thread
G. Fasteners
1.Zippers (lapped and centered)a. Lapped- A lap zipper is when a zipper is installed with a flap of fabric covering the zipper. It
is used often in everything from throw pillow covers to bags to garments. The zipper type
used is a standard or "all-purpose zipper" available at any sewing supply store.
b. Centered- baste the area where the zipper will be attached. Center the zipper along the baste.
Using a zipper foot, sew the zipper doen one side, across the actual zipper and up the other
side
2.Buttons/buttonholes
a. Sew through– 2 or 4“eyes” on face of button
b. Shank- “hook (called a shank) on back of button
3.Snaps- Used to hold overlapping edges together where there
is not much strain. Two parts – ball half and socket half. Use a double-strand of matching
thread.
4.Hook & eyesa. Round eye & hook- used for neckline of dresses /shirts
b. Straight eye (Bar) & hook- Straight eye (bar) & hook – use for waistbands on pants/skirts
5.Hook & Loop Tape- (AKA: Velcro) Two nylon strips that intermesh. Best way to attach is by
machine, but you can buy with an adhesive back
Snaps
Bar & hook
hook & eye (round)