SYSTAIN CONSULTING
THEKEY.TO ACADEMY
The Carbon Footprint of Textiles
Norbert Jungmichel, Systain Consulting
Berlin | July 5th 2010
Systain Consulting – more than 10 years of passion for
sustainability
Systain Consulting
Systain Consulting is an experienced CSR consultancy. Together with our clients, we
develop tailor-made and pragmatic solutions for sustainable management – with main
focus on the supply chain. Our clients range from brands, retailers, importers and
producers.
The Systain team offers:
-
Systematic solutions for sustainability
Comprehensive business know-how
Performance-oriented consultancy
Headquarter in Hamburg and offices in the main production markets
25 employees of various nationalities in 4 countries
July 5th 2010
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Systain worldwide
Hamburg
Hong Kong
Schwäbisch
Gmünd
Istanbul
Dhaka
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Carbon Emissions are faced an increasing awareness
among consumers
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Relevance of the topic CO2 for several product groups today and in the future
Growth rate
Furniture
Fruits and Vegetables
Frozen Food
Fast-food and Coffee Shops
Fashion, Clothes and Shoes
Chemist and Hygiene Store
Creamery Products
Toys
Do-It-Yourself Supplies
Books and Newspapers
Over-The-Counter Drugs
Today
Soft Drinks
Future
Confectionary
Survey among 1.011 consumers in Germany, carried out by Sempora, Sept. 2007
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Patagonia (U.S.): information about environmental impact of textiles
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Information about the
carbon footprint
Carbon footprint
related to the weight
of the textile
Information about
energy consumption,
waste etc.
Trace & tracking for
consumers
 Regular T-Shirt:
CO2 equals eight
times the weight of
the shirt
www.patagonia.com
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Fossile fuels cause CO2-emissions
1)
Bestandteile: 1 Atom Kohlenstoff (C), 2 Atome Sauerstoff (O = ½O2)
2)
Summenformel:
3)
Strukturformel:
4)
Molare Massen: C = 12 g/Mol, ½O2 = 16 g/Mol, CO2 = 44 g/Mol
5)
Aus 4) ergibt sich für CO2 ein Anteilsverhältnis von
6)
Der Kohlenstoffanteil in fossilen Brennstoffen liegt bei ca. 85%
7)
1 kg fossilen Brennstoff = ca. 850 g Kohlenstoff (C)
Dichte von verschiedenen fossilen Brennstoffen:
CO2
C
O
O
1 : 1,3 : 3,67
(C : ½O2 : CO2)
7.1) Dieselkraftstoff = ca. 845 g /Liter
7.2) Ottokraftstoff =
ca. 750 g /Liter
7.3) Schweröl =
ca. 1.000 g/Liter
Beispielrechnung für Diesel
-
Ein Liter Diesel hat eine Masse von ca. 845 g (siehe 7.1)
-
Da der Masseanteil von Kohlenstoff in fossilen Brennstoffen bei ca. 85% liegt (siehe 6), enthält ein Liter Diesel
ca. 718,25 g Kohlenstoff.
-
Entsprechend dem unter 4) ermittelten Kohlenstoffanteil für CO2 entstehen bei vollständiger Oxidation von
einem Liter Diesel: 718,25 g C * 3,67 g CO2/g C=
2,6 kg CO2/ Liter Diesel
*für Diesel (ohne Emissionen bei Förderung und Raffinierung
* 1 Mol = 6.0221367 * 10-23 Teilchen (Avogadrosche Zahl) ** Dieser Wert schwankt mit der Kraftstoffdichte
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The Carbon Footprint indicates all greenhouse gas
emissions along the whole life-cycle
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The journey of a longshirt: from the cotton field in the U.S.
via the factory in Bangladesh to the consumer in Germany
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Figure: google
Long shirt ‚Boysen’s’, ¾ sleeve, white, 100% cotton, Size 40-42, Net weight 222 grams
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Carbon Footprint of the white longshirt: 10.75 kg CO2e,
50 times the net-weight
Disposal
0.25 kg
2%
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Cotton Cultivation
1.27 kg
12%
Use-Phase
3.30 kg
31%
Manufacture
3.00 kg
28%
Packaging
0.24 kg
2%
Catalogue
1.53 kg
14%
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Transports
0.29 kg
Distribution
3%
0.87 kg
8%
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N2O-gases are linked to cotton growing and have an
almost 300-time larger effect than CO2
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 The Carbon Footprint regarding cotton
growing incl. ginning makes up 1,27 kg
CO2e.
 Indicated by generic secondary data due to
data gaps for cotton growing.
 Almost half of it caused by direct and
indirect nitrous oxide emissions (N2O),
which has a Global Warming Potential
(GWP) of 298 relative to CO2
N2O
45%
CO2
53%
CH4
2%
 The level of uncertainties is quite high:
- Direct emissions of N2O depends on temperature, soil structure, the use of fertilizer, water etc.
- Production of fertilizers – no data outside the western hemisphere available
- Land use Change?
- Carbon sequestration by the cotton?
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Manufacture implies an emission-level of 3.0 kg CO2e per
functional unit
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1,20
1.02 kg
0.98 kg
1,00
0.88 kg
CO2e (in kg)
0,80
0,60
0,40
0,20
CO2e-emissions in the
production spinning –
sewing/RMG (excl.
transportation)
0.12 kg
0,00
Spinn ing
Knit ting
D yeing
RMG
 Approx. 2/3 of the carbon emissions are caused by electricity, 1/3 by heating processes
 A major part of the electricity is generated on site (gas generators)
 High proportion of natural gas as source of energy
 Production of a dark longshirt (same size): 3.41 kg CO2e
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0.87 kg CO2e are being emitted due to distribution
processes, more than half result from returns
2nd delivery
0.11 kg
2nd pick-up
customer
0.01 kg
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Warehousing
0.11 kg
2nd warehousing
0.05 kg
Delivery
0.28 kg
Transport return
0.29 kg
Pick-up customer
0.01 kg
Return by customer
0.01 kg
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Consumers can contribute significantly to reduce the
Product Carbon Footprint
Carbon Footprint for use phase (55 laundries)
12.0 kg
Scenario 1: base scenario with shared usage of
dryer and iron according to the statistical average
10.0 kg
Carbon Footprint (in kg CO2e)
Scenario 2: permanent usage of dryer and iron after
each laundry
8.0 kg
6.0 kg
4.0 kg
2.0 kg
Washing
machine
dryer
Stock Germany
95%
36%
Loading capacity (average)
5 kg
6 kg
Use of loading volume
(average)
73%
75%
Mass per loading (in kg)
3.65
4.50
Use per wash cycle
100%
17%
Average energy
consumption
0.80 kWh
3.30 kWh
Assumptions of the carbon footprint calculations for the use phase
0.0 kg
Base scenario: ØHousehold D
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Scenario: permanent
use of dryer and
pressing iron
Washing machine
Water supply
Pressing iron
Washing agent
Dryer
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Options for reducing carbon emissions can be identified –
example of energy efficient devices
Household devices with an improved level
of energy efficiency may reduce the Carbon
Footprint in use phase by one third,
compared to the household stock.
The Carbon Footprint in the use-phase is
further determined by:
 Washing temperature
 Actual loading of appliances
A washing temperature of 40°C instead of
60°C reduces the Carbon Footprint of the usephase by 45%, 30°C instead of 40°C by 40%.
Washing machine
Water supply
Pressing iron
July 5th 2010
Washing agent
Dryer
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In total, three textiles have been evaluated
Long shirt ¾ sleeve, white
100% cotton
Sweat-jacket with hood, fuchsia
100% cotton (‘Cotton made in
Africa’)
Jacket for kids, red 100%
Acrylic
Size 40-42
Net weight 222 grams
Cotton from U.S.
Production in Bangladesh
Offered by OTTO
Size 40
Net weight 446 grams
Cotton from Benin
Production in Turkey
Offered by BAUR
Size 152-158
Net weight 266 grams
Acrylic from China
Production in Bangladesh
Offered by OTTO
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Three products - three Footprints – and lots of
information
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Product Carbon Footprint (in kg CO2e)
16.0
13.42 kg
14.0
12.0
13.67 kg
10.75 kg
10.0
8.0
Disposal
Use-Phase
Packaging
Catalogue
Distribution
Transportation
Manufacture
Raw Materials
6.0
4.0
2.0
0.0
Long-Shirt
white
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Sweat-Jacket
fuchsia
Acrylic Children
Jacket red
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Energy efficiency and national grid factor reduce the
carbon footprint in manufacture in Turkey
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2.5
Carbon Footprint (in kg CO2e)
2.21 kg
2.0
1.5
1.07 kg
1.0
0.5
0.24 kg
0.20 kg
0.0
Spinning
Knitting
Dyeing
CO2e-emissions in the
production spinning - RMG
(excl. transportation)
RMG
 40% less GHG-emissions for manufacture compared to the longshirt produced in Bangladesh
(mass equivalence)
 But 90% more GHG-emissions for dyeing due to: waste water treatment, color intensity,
thickness of knit-fabric, energy sources (natural gas + lignite)
 Dyeing I: exclusive use of natural gas: 1.43 kg CO2e; exclusive use of lignite: 2.30 kg CO2e
 Dyeing II: elasticity of carbon footprint due to volatile production – doubling emissions per output
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Cooling and Lighting have a significant quantity of
electricity consumption in a garment factory
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Analysis of electrical equipment
17%
41%
Machinery
W ashing Unit
20%
Cooling (fans and AC)
Lighting
22%
Percentage of electrical devices, clustered by electrical load (example garm,ent factory in
Bangladesh – acrylic jacket)
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Only low reflection of light
by the ceiling
Inadequate reflectors
Tubes with less Watt
would also be appropriate
Main switch instead of
separate lights switchers
Too much tubes
for lighting
Use of magnetic ballasts
instead of electronic ones
Dark, light absorbing
ceiling, walls and floors
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Carbon Footprint results in transparency and raising
awareness
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Capabilities of the PCF:
 Creating Transparency
 Identification of Hot-Spots
 Determining alternatives
 Addressing carbon emissions in the supply chain
 Addressing carbon emissions in emerging markets
 Awareness Raising
 Using for management instruments
Incapabilities of the PCF:
 Not an exclusive eco-indicator
 No comparison by a CO2-label
 No exact, universal result
Linking CO2-emissions with energy costs is a key success factor
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Four steps for a systematic approach
1. Orientation
2. Transparency
3. Strategy
4. Implementation
• Are there regulations that may affect my business / -partners?
• What are expectations from our costumers, investors, the public?
• …
•
•
•
•
What is the carbon footprint of my company?
Where can I find hot-spots for energy consumption?
How much are the energy costs?
…
•
•
•
•
What measures may reduce the energy consumption?
What are short-term measures that can be taken immadiately?
What are my investment costs?
…
•
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How can I implement the defined measures in existing processes?
Who has to do what?
How shall I communicate these measures?
…
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Systain Consulting GmbH
Norbert Jungmichel
Wandsbeker Str. 13a
22179 Hamburg
[email protected]
T. +49 40 6461 8459
F. +49 40 6461 6666
www.systain.com
Systain Consulting 2009
July
5th 2010
09.07.2010
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