STOCKS AND SAUCES STOCK A liquid flavored from meat, poultry, and fish, and vegetables and seasonings. STOCKS AND SAUCES • French word for stock is fond, “foundation” or “base.” • • meaning This “foundation” indicates the importance of stocks. The ability to prepare good stocks is the most basic of all culinary skills. 3 STOCKS AND SAUCES Stocks The objective in preparing stocks is to: Select the proper ingredients. Extract the flavors we want. Combine the correct ingredients with the correct procedure. 4 PRINCIPLES OF STOCK MAKING Start the stock in cold water Simmer the stock gently Skim the stock frequently Strain the stock carefully Cool the stock quickly Store the stock properly TYPES OF STOCKS White stock • Raw bones and vegetables simmered in water with seasonings Brown stock • Bones and vegetables that have first been browned then simmered in water with seasonings Fish stock or fumet • Fish bones or crustacean shells cooked slowly with vegetables and seasonings in water Court bouillon • Vegetables and seasonings simmered in water with an acidic liquid INGREDIENTS OF A STOCK Bones • Mirepoix • Beef, veal, chicken, fish • Lamb, turkey, game, ham Mixture of 50% onions, 25% carrots and 25% celery Seasonings • Principally peppercorns, bay leaves, thyme, parsley stems and, optionally, garlic Do not add salt STOCKS AND SAUCES Stocks Fundamental Ingredients • Bones are the major ingredient of stocks (except water, of course). • Most of the flavor and body of stocks are derived from the bones. Vegetable stocks draw their flavor entirely from vegetables. 8 STOCKS AND SAUCES Stocks: Ingredients Connective tissues (called collagen) break down and form gelatin. This gives body to a stock. A well-made stock thickens or even solidifies when chilled. 9 STOCKS AND SAUCES Stocks: Ingredients Cartilage is the best source of gelatin in bones. Younger animals have more cartilage than mature animals The following types have a lot cartilage and are values in stock-making: • Knuckle bones • Neck Bones • Shank Bones 10 STOCKS AND SAUCES Stocks: Ingredients Meat: Rarely used in stockmaking because of its cost. • • Chicken hearts and gizzards are often used in chicken stock. Broth is produced as a result of simmering meat or poultry. • Broth: A flavorful liquid obtained from the simmering of meats and/or vegetables. 11 STOCKS AND SAUCES Stocks: Ingredients Mirepoix : A combination of onions, carrots and celery. White mirepoix: parsnips are substituted for carrots. Used when it is necessary to keep the stock as colorless as possible. Usually for white beef or veal stock and fish stock. Celery root may be substituted for celery. 12 STOCKS AND SAUCES Stocks: Ingredients Acids help dissolve connective tissues. Tomato products contribute flavor and some acid to brown stocks. • Too much tomato can make the stock cloudy. Wine is occasionally used, especially for fish stocks. Its flavor contribution is probably more important than its acidity. 13 STOCKS AND SAUCES Stocks: Ingredients Seasonings and Spices Salt is usually not added as stocks are reduced, concentrated, and combined with other ingredients. Herbs and spices are usually tied in a cheesecloth bag called a sachet d’épices. 14 STOCKS AND SAUCES Stocks: Ingredients Seasonings and Spices Bouquet Garni : an assortment of fresh herbs and other aromatic ingredients tied in a bundle with string. Contains pieces of leek and celery, thyme sprigs, bay leaf, and parsley stems. 15 STOCKS AND SAUCES Stocks: Ingredients Seasonings and Spices Sachet d’épices for “spice bag”). (French The sachet is tied by a string to the handle of the stockpot so it can be removed easily at any time. 16 STOCKS AND SAUCES Stocks: Ingredients Seasonings and Spices The following seasonings, in varying quantities, are commonly used for stocks: Thyme Parsley stems Bay leaves Cloves, whole Peppercorns Garlic (optional) 17 STOCKS AND SAUCES Stocks: Ingredients Blanching Bones The purpose of blanching bones is to rid them of the impurities that cause cloudiness. The bones of young animals, especially veal and chicken, are highest in impurities that cloud and discolor stocks. 18 WHITE STOCK Neutral stock made from beef, veal or chicken bones Blanching bones • • • • Wash and cut up bones, place them in a stockpot and cover with cold water Bring the water to a boil over high heat As soon as water comes to a boil, skim the rising impurities; drain the water from the bones and discard Refill the pot with cold water and proceed with the stock recipe STOCKS AND SAUCES Stocks: Procedures Preparing White Stock 3. Add white mirepoix to the pot. 4. Add a sachet d’épices. Tie the sachet to the pot handle so it may be retrieved easily. 20 BROWN STOCK Made from chicken, veal, beef or game bones Caramelizing • • • • Do not blanch the bones Place the cut up bones in a roasting pan one layer deep; it is better to roast several pans of bones than to overfill one pan Roast the bones for approximately 1 hour in a hot oven, 375°F; stirring occasionally, brown the bones thoroughly, but do not allow them to burn Transfer the roasted bones from the pan to the stockpot BROWN STOCK, CONT. Caramelizing mirepoix • • • Add a little of the reserved fat from the roasted bones to the roasting pan after it has been deglazed Sauté the mirepoix, browning the vegetables well and evenly without burning them Add caramelized mirepoix to stockpot FISH STOCK Made with the bones and heads of fish and crustacean shells Oily fish are not generally used Bones are not blanched, due to loss of flavor Fumets differ from stock because they are strongly flavored and contain an acidic ingredient such as white wine or lemon juice Require less time than other stocks; 35 to 40 minutes is usually sufficient to extract full flavor VEGETABLE STOCK Should be clear and light colored Contains no gelatin and has little body May be used as a substitute for meat stocks in vegetarian dishes Strongly flavored vegetables from the cruciferous family or those that are bitter should be avoided Potatoes and other starchy vegetables will cloud the stock and should be avoided COURT BOUILLON Commonly used to poach fish and shellfish A flavored liquid, usually water and wine or vinegar, in which vegetables and seasonings have been simmered to impart their flavors and aromas Not actually stock, but prepared in the same manner GLAZE A dramatically reduced stock 1 gallon of stock produces 1 to 2 cups of glaze • • Glace de viande is made from brown stock Glace de volaille is made from white stock STOCKS AND SAUCES Stocks Convenience Bases Bases vary greatly in quality. The best ones are composed mainly of meat extracts. Many bases are made primarily from salt. • Using bases requires taste and judgment. • Read the list of ingredients. Always taste and evaluate as you cook. There is no substitute for a well-made stock. 27 SAUCES With a few exceptions, a sauce is a liquid plus thickening agent plus seasonings Follow these procedures for fine sauce making: • • • Make good stocks Use thickening agents properly to achieve the desired texture, flavor and appearance Use seasonings properly to achieve the desired flavors STOCKS AND SAUCES Sauces: Functions Sauce: A flavorful liquid, usually thickened, used to season, flavor, and enhance other foods. A sauce adds the following qualities to foods: • Moistness • Flavor • Richness • Appearance (color and shine) • Interest and appetite appeal 29 THICKENING AGENTS Roux is the principal means used to thicken sauces Roux is a combination of equal parts, by weight, of flour and fat White roux • Blond roux • Cooked only briefly, used in white sauces Cooked slightly longer to take on a little color, used in ivory-colored sauces Brown roux • Cooked until it develops a darker color and a nutty aroma, used in brown sauces White, Blonde and Brown Roux STOCKS AND SAUCES Sauces Thickeners Roux : A cooked mixture of equal parts by weight of fat and flour. Beurre manié : A mixture of equal parts soft, raw butter and flour worked together to form a smooth paste. Liaison : A mixture of egg yolks and cream, used to enrich and lightly thicken a sauce or other liquid. Roux Liaison 31 MOTHER SAUCES Leading or mother sauces are the foundation for the entire classic repertoire of hot sauces Béchamel Velouté Espagnole (brown) Tomato Hollandaise STOCKS AND SAUCES Sauces: Structure Liquids Leading sauces or Mother sauces • White stock (chicken, veal, or fish): for velouté sauces • Brown stock: for brown sauce or espagnole • Milk: for béchamel • Tomato plus stock: for tomato sauce • Clarified butter: for hollandaise 33 STOCKS AND SAUCES Sauces Leading Sauces Liquid + thickening agent = leading sauce Leading sauce + additional flavorings = small sauce Standards of Quality for Sauces: 1. Consistency and body 2. Flavor 3. Appearance 34 BÉCHAMEL FAMILY Cream Cheese Mornay Nantua Soubise THE VELOUTÉ FAMILY Fish sauces • • • Bercy Cardinal Normandy Allemande sauces • • • • Suprême sauces • • • Albufera Hungarian Ivory Aurora Horseradish Mushroom Poulette TOMATO SAUCE FAMILY Creole Spanish Milanaise Marinara ESPAGNOLE FAMILY Demi-glace Jus Lié Bordelaise Chasseur Châteaubriand Chevreuil Madeira or port Marchand de vin Mushroom Périgueux Piquant Poivrade Robert • Charcutière THE HOLLANDAISE FAMILY Béarnaise Choron Foyot Grimrod Maltaise Mousseline MISE EN PLACE MISE EN PLACE French term, which literally means “Everything in its place.” Organize and plan your work. MISE EN PLACE • Cooks must have a talent for organization and efficiency. • Many tasks must be completed over a given time and by a limited number of workers. • All must come together at one crucial point: service time. 42 PLANNING & ORGANIZING PRODUCTION Pre-Preparation Pre-preparation is necessary! You must: • Assemble your tools • Assemble your ingredients • Wash, trim, cut, prepare, and measure your raw materials • Prepare your equipment 43 THE PREP LIST A blueprint for how food production is going to be achieved during the work day An overview of what needs to be done and how long it will take to do it The order in which assignments should be completed How each cook may interact with each other in the kitchen WRITING A PREP LIST A prep list is not just a rewriting of recipes It is reading through recipes and composing a written map of how to accomplish the tasks necessary to prepare the recipes The first step in organizing your work is to read and understand the recipes you will be using Once each item is identified and quantified, the next step is to schedule your tasks through prioritization SELECTING EQUIPMENT All tools, equipment and work surfaces must be clean and sanitized Knives should be honed and sharpened Measuring devices should be checked for accuracy periodically Ovens and cooking surfaces should be preheated, as necessary Mixing bowls, saucepans and storage containers should be the correct size for the task at hand Serving plates, cookware, utensils, hand tools and other necessary small wares should be gathered and stored nearby Foods should be gathered and stored conveniently at the proper temperature Expiration dates on foods should be checked periodically for validity Sanitizing solution, hand towels, disposable gloves and trash receptacles should be conveniently located MEASURING AND PREPARING INGREDIENTS Weigh and measure all ingredients Clarify butter Toast nuts and spices Make bread crumbs Prepare bouquet garni and sachet Marinate meats and poultry Prepare rubs and pastes Steep dry ingredients
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