In the fins of Cousteau … The S.S. Thistlegorm and its incredible cargo.
One of the most beautiful wrecks on the globe is in the Red Sea. Resting at thirty meters, it is a part
of history that Cousteau discovers in 1955. This mythical wreck is the one of the S.S. Thistlegorm
sank in 1941 by the German army. A " must see " if you dive in Egypt.
Dropping down into the blue, you can really feel the emotion felt by the few divers of the mythic
Calypso when, in the mid 50s, they discover this magnificent wreck thanks to some information
given by local fishermen. Through these images extracted from the shooting of “The Silent world",
an exalting feeling of discovery runs through your veins, This is like a “back to the past” experience
on one of the most beautiful known wreck, still rich of almost all her load and covered with life.
The S.S. Thistlegorm was built in 1940 in the Yards of JL Thompson and Sons, in Sunderland,
England. She measured 126.5 m (415ft) length, 17m (55ft) wide and had a draft of 7.6m (25ft). She
displaced 4,898 tonnes and with a triple expansion steam engine of 365ch as propeller, she could
reach 10 knots. She was one of the “Thistle” vessel belonging to the Albyn Line. The emblem of
Scotland, the thistle was on each ship of the company and it formed the prefix of all their names
followed by a Gaelic word (Thistlegorm, Thistleglen, Thistlenuir,...She was armed with guns(that
can still be seen today) by the navy for allied WW2 duties. She made three voyages to America,
Argentina and the Dutch Antilles. For her fourth voyage, she was loaded with two steam locomotives
built in Glasgow by the North British Loco for the Egyptian railways, and aircraft parts, rifles,
munitions, motorcycles placed onto the back of trucks and radio and medical equipment for the Eight
Army of General Montgomery which fights against the Afrika Corps de Rommel in North Africa.
Captain William Ellis and the crew of the ship, were supplemented by 9 members of the Royal Navy
gun crew. She was supposed to navigates from Glasgow towards the Suez Canal by by-passing
Africa via the Cape, so avoiding the Mediterranean Sea where military convoys were regularly
attacked by the German and Italian naval and air force army. The journey started on 5th September
1941 to Freetown in South Africa, she rounded the Horn, passed Madagascar and reached Aiden
without incident She was then escorted up the Red Sea by HMS Cairo to anchorage in Sha’ab Ali.
The entrance of the Suez Canal was blocked by a wreck and she was delayed for ten days in Sha’ab
Ali in the Straits of Gubal. During that time, on 6th October 1941,German bombers based in
Heraklion were trying to find another boat, the Queen Mary, a troop carrier, to sink it but they found
the Thistlegorm instead and at about 2am, a Hienkel He- 111 released two bombs on the back hold of
the boat filled with ammunitions. The after part was rapidly enveloped in flames. The explosions sent
the locomotives through the air and the ship was almost ripped in two and sank as the crew was
escaping. Only four sailors and five members of the Royal Navy crew were killed by the explosion
of one of the bomber that crashed a few miles away. The rest of the crew were rescued and taken on
board the HMS Carlisle, a C-class light cruiser of the Royal Navy, named after the English city of
Carlisle, and the SS Salamanua The intense light released at the time of the explosion enlightened
another boat at anchor not far, the Rosalie Moller* that will be sank on the next day by the same
bombers departing from Crete. For many years, British vessels passing the site would dip their flags
as a mark of respect for those who died. Until the early fifties when Jacques Cousteau and his divers
discovered her, the ship remained undisturbed. Rumours say that Cousteau had pillaged the boat for
anything of value including a motorcycle, the ship’s bell and the Captain’s safe and that he had
hidden them for many years.
The wreck today.
This wreck is very appreciated by the divers since the 90s when she was re-discovered by local dive
masters. This explains moreover the number of boats which cross days and nights in the
surroundings, thoughtlessly mooring off directly to the wreck and destroying the handrails and the
paravane on the starboard side completely. Unfortunately, victim of her historic success but also of
the harshness of the sea, the wreck degrades gradually. Here and there, the effects of the
overexploitation can be observed especially because some disrespectful divers are avid to bring back
a souvenir which contribute to the progressive impoverishment of the wreck. Though the
Thistlegorm remains an outstanding dive. The wreck is split into two sections with an amount of
debris in-between. Browsing the deck, entering hold 1 and continuing to hold 2, you discover a part
of the impressive load which transported this magnificent vessel for the British army: Bedford,
Morris Tilling Stevens and Ford trucks, Universal Carrier multi- purpose vehicles, BSA , Matchless
and Norton motorbikes, machine guns and their ammunitions as well as diverse equipments. You can
then access the roomy bunkering hold were a school of sweepers has taken residence. At 15m (50ft)
to port, one of the two impressive locomotives sits upright. The other one is on the starboard side.
Only the smoke box can be seen and piles of munitions are disseminated around. On the hull
alcyonaires and bushes of soft corals decorate and colour the metallic structures of the boat. A
curious turtle, is majestically guiding the visit inside its domain passing by the machinegun.
Dominating the after deck, decorated with concretions, the 120 mm anti-aircraft gun aims at an
imaginary target. Swimming back to the bridge, you will realise the force of the explosion by seeing
the deck folded back on itself. You will end your dive whith Masked Bannerfish, Batfish, Jacks
Snapper and Barracuda keeping the invaluable cargo which will never reach its destination.
The vision of this striking wreck almost allows us to feel the emotion of every sea explorers
discovering such unexpected treasures. While going up you have this extraordinary sensation which
is part of these particular experiences where we feel like transported in time and when we become a
privileged witness of the past!
The Thistlegorm's cargo
Norton 16h motorbike: Specially designed for despatch riders in the desert campaign. 100,000 were
produced during World War 2.
BSA M 20 motorbike: Used by dispatch riders. Were assigned to Field Marshall Auchinleck, in
charge of the British troops fighting the desert fox-Rommel. 126,000 were manufactured during
WW2.
Matchless G3L motorbike: A two-seater single cylinder motorbike, 4 speed foot change gearbox.
Designed for desert use.
Universal Carrier: Small multi-purpose tracked vehicles. Were used as infantry support and were
usually fitted with a 303 Bren light machine guns. Were powered by Ford V8 engines and could
reach speeds of 48km/h. Could carry up to 5 persons.
Bedford MW: Were versatile lightweight with a 6 cylinder Bedford engine.
Bedford OY: Twice the payload of the MW. 3 ton truck. Was the mainstay of the British Army.
Some 72.000 produced.
Ford WOT 1: Largest vehicle in the wreck. Used for heavy payloads.
Ford WOT 2: Most commonly used truck. Some 60,000 produced. Was generally fitted with planked
tray and canvas top.
Ford WOT 3; Larger than the WOT 2. Was fitted with a ford V8 engine 85hp.
Morris Commercial CS8: Recognizable by its distinctive bonnet. Was fitted with a Ford 8 cylinder
engine.
Tilling Stevens: The largest of the wheel trucks in the wreck. 6.4 metres long and some 400kg. Could
carry a substantial payload.
Stanier 8F 2-8-0 Steam locomotive: In the 30's and 40 it was the workhouse of the rail network. 852
were produced and 200 exported to the Middle East. Had water tank cars extending the engines range
by providing an extra supply of water for desert operations.
And also: Wellington boots, 2 armoured cars, generators, trailers, rifles, aircraft parts, radio and
medical equipment, ...
Some practical information.
Location: Safe anchorage 'F' Straits of Gubal, Northern Red Sea.
Position: Sha'ab Ali 27 48.800 N / 33 55.250 E.
Access: Day or Safari boat from Sharm El Sheikh or Hurghada
Depth range: 18 to 33m (59 to 108ft)
Average Visibility: 25-30m (82-98ft)
In a relatively clear water with a light current, the nitrox 32 % allows you to take advantage of this
very accessible dive.
The wreck is 114m (374) in length. It's possible to cover the majority of it in one dive but its
recommended to split it up over at least 2 dives as there is plenty to see and the choice of both
entering and no-entering routes around the wreck.
A night dive will allow you to illuminate the coral, numerous invertebrates, shrimps, crabs and
anemones. Huge shoals shelter in the holds and on the decks, you’ll meet urchins and basket stars.
For the anecdote, the boat is put in the axis bow Northwest - stern South but do not try to use your
compass considering the quantity of metal.
The Thistlegorm is the wreck with the most misspelled name.
Text and photographs Jean Christophe GRIGNARD © www.jcgrignard.com
Photos
Masked Bannerfish, keeping the invaluable cargo.
The 120 mm anti-aircraft gun aims at an imaginary target.
A curious turtle, is majestically guiding the visit
The invaluable cargo which will never reach its destination.
While going up you have this extraordinary sensation of being a
privileged witness of the past.