Namib/Kalahari (Southern Africa): Deserts 1. Zoom from the Salar de Uyuni salt flats to the Namib/Kalahari. 2. Along the west coast of Africa is a place, Namib Desert, that is one of the most inhospitable (no volcanoes, no acid lakes) – incredibly dry, and has been for over 50 million years. a. The shoreline has been called Skeleton Coast i. Bushmen of the Namibian interior called the region "The Land God Made in Anger"; Portuguese sailors called it "The Gates of Hell". ii. More than 1000 shipwrecks along the coast iii. Thick fogs; rocky shoals; but not a drop of freshwater iv. Because of constant heavy surf, almost impossible to get back off the beach once a (human-powered) boat lands there. v. Also many skeletons of whales remain from days of whaling b. The Namib gets less than 1 cm of rain/yr. Western part gets even less – 0.5 cm/yr. If you are stuck there, there is no way to survive. The area is totally uninhabited. c. Just over a ridge of mountains, the Namib escarpment, is another desert, one of the largest – the Kalahari, but it is totally different in character. 3. Describe a dry desert a. We already visited the world’s largest desert: Antarctica. Also visited some high, cold deserts, like the Gobi and Atacama. b. Some are huge – describe Sahara and Arabian deserts – but many can be small c. Hot deserts have a very different appearance. i. Sand dunes (though only about 20% of hot deserts) ii. More common is desert pavement. How does it form? 1. Wind – blows away lighter sand, leaving rocks behind 2. Freezing and thawing; wetting and drying d. Extreme temperature changes – in places like the Kalahari temperatures can be freezing at night in winter, but still be hot during the day. i. Why? The reason is water, or lack of it. 1. Explain how water vapor is the strongest greenhouse gas, and clouds block incoming sunlight during day (less hot), but water vapor absorbs radiated infrared energy from the surface at night (less cold) – has a moderating effect. 2. In a desert, with no water vapor in the air, the sun heats the surface greatly during the day, but the heat escapes quickly at night ii. How about wetting and drying? 1. Though rain is rare, you can still get storms on occasion. 2. In fact, many people die from flooding in deserts [explain] e. Some of the least inhabited places in the world; remarkably there are people who live in the deserts – Bodouin, Tuareg f. Growing interest in desert regions i. Mineral resources: many useful resource form as evaporates (sodium nitrate – used as fertilizer and in gunpowder; gypsum, etc.), and salts washed into playas (we saw lithium in the last lecture) ii. Sites for solar energy: lots of sunlight and open areas! A good combo. 1. Talk about solar plants in the Mojave. 4. Hard to pick a single desert. a. Sahara is largest. b. Rub al Khali (southern 1/3 of Arabian peninsula) is the largest Sand Sea. c. Atacama is the driest (average rain over the whole region is 1 mm/yr; some weather stations have never received any rain; no rain during habitation, since 1570; mountains should have glaciers on them, but there is no snow to make ice) d. But Namib is Oldest; and so strange to be next to so much water, but be so dry. It also has the tallest sand dunes in the world, which are a striking red color. e. Explain the reason for the desert: i. Prevailing wind blows east to west ii. As moist air from the Indian ocean rises up over the Drakensburg mountains of South Africa (east coast) it cools and loses its moisture iii. It is dry when it crosses the Namib Escarpment, and as it drops and warms, it even absorbs any available moisture. This is why it is drier near the coast than even a bit inland. 5. Though Namib is incredibly dry throughout, there is still a lot of variation if you were to visit. a. The largest sand dunes in the world are in Sossusvlei region. The rich ochre sea of sand, rise to almost 1,000 feet (305metres), which is 300 feet (91metres) more than their nearest rivals in Arabia. i. The older the dune, the brighter the color; from slow iron oxidation and tiny fragments of garnets. ii. These dunes refract spectacular colors with the changing light and turn from burnt orange through reds to deepest mauve. b. The Fish River Canyon in southern Namibia is reminiscent of the Grand Canyon in Arizona. i. Rock stratas of purples, pinks and greys stretch along a 100mile (161km) course. ii. Drops vertically by 1,800ft (550m) out of a flat arid plateau without any warning iii. at some points it is 17 miles (27km) wide! iv. According to the San Bushmen the many twists and curves were carved by the serpent, Kouteign Kooru, in an attempt to escape capture. c. Right along the coast, there can be thick, blinding fog. This is where the dry air meets the cold moist air from the cold Benguela current that runs up along the coast. i. The moist air is pushed down by the hot dry air from the Namib; as is falls and warms, it condenses into thick banks of fog ii. This fog is the only moisture that some parts of the desert ever get, and life has evolved to adapt to it iii. Even though the desert is incredibly dry and the total biomass is low, the difficult conditions cause a very high degree of biodiversity as life has adapted to the harsh conditions. 1. Many species of beetles have protrusions that act as nucleation points for condensation from the fog: water droplets form on their bodies! 2. Plants do the same. 3. The body temperature of Gemsboks (oryxes) increases in the heat – up to 40C (104F) 6. Across the Namib Escarpment, in the Kalahari, life is much more plentiful. If you ever saw the movie The Gods Must be Crazy or the animated movie The Lion King, then you have a sense of what this area looks at. a. meerkats, lions, jackals, buffalo, etc.; and bushmen too. b. Technically not a desert – there is enough rainfall that it is a semi-arid region (steppe). c. There are regions where the Kalahari is a true desert. d. But the most interesting region is to the north, where the Okavango River empties into the desert and disappears. e. Heavy rains in January in Angola flow into the Okavango, which swells. 2-4 months later the water reaches the Okavango delta f. 250 km x 150 km; the Kalahari is in an ancient giant lake bed – Lake Makgadigadi – and is very flat; the whole topographical variation across the delta is about 6 feet. g. A single clump of trees can start to accumulate silt and more vegetation and develop into a small island; the delta is dotted with them. The trees usually start on termite mounds. h. Only one larger island – Chief’s Island – which used to be the sole hunting grounds of the local chief. Is a refuge to animals at the height of the flooding. i. “Food” has a negative connotation in most of the world, but not here – it is rejuvenating and life-giving. Before then, elephants have to did down deep to reveal water. j. Most of the water ends up evaporating, but some seeps into the ground. 7. Top 5: a. b. c. d. e. [Antarctica (already done); Sahara (next lecture)] Arabian Gobi Atacama Great Victoria Desert (Australia) Questions: 1) Along the west coast of the US the situation is reversed: there is lush vegetation from the coast up the sides of the coastal mountains, and dry desert area east of the coastal mountains. Why do you think this is reversed from the Namib desert? 2) How do you think life has evolved to adapt to a situation at the Okavango delta where there is a lot of water for a brief period of time, and arid conditions the rest of the time?
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