Spring Mulching Tips
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Mulching has many benefits. It can provide nutrients for plants, lock in moisture, form a
barrier against weeds and help insulate the roots of vulnerable plants from summer heat.
Mulches can also be used for decorating the tops of pots and planters.
The best time to mulch entire beds or borders is in early spring. This will trap in moisture
from wet weather and ensure beds don’t dry out quickly in the heat of summer. Mulch
reduces soil temperature as much as 10 degrees — enough to make a difference between
supporting or killing tiny feeder roots near the surface.
Don't keep adding to the top of the pile each year, as this can cause rot, disease, and
insect problems at the base.
Apply mulch 2" to 5" deep - after clearing grass and weeds and cultivating the soil.
Mulch applied around your trees each year reduces water stress, weeds, and damage to
trees.
Mulch every year as part of your yard maintenance plan for good plant and yard health.
Combine mulching with time-tested techniques like core aeration and proper fertilization
to keep your lawn healthy and happy for years.
How to Order Mulch
Step 1 - Which mulch should I order?
The decision as to which mulch to order depends on two things - price and aesthetics. All of the
mulch varieties that we sell will provide the benefits of mulch and give you excellent value for
your dollar. Double Ground Hardwood Bark is our most popular. If you are after a certain look
in your landscape regarding color or texture, this will control your decision. You are welcome to
come into Lowcountry Mulch to examine samples of our mulches for yourself. We have a large
variety of mulches to choose from.
Step 2 - When can I have mulch delivered?
We can deliver mulch Monday - Saturday during business hours. Saturdays are more popular, so
if that is the day you want, be sure to call earlier. "Plan ahead" is the best advice.
Step 3 - How much mulch do I need?
To achieve the desired effects with mulching the application should be between 2" and 2 1/2"
thick. Thicker applications are not beneficial and can even be harmful to some landscape plants.
For information on mulching, look at our Frequently Asked Question section including How Do
I Apply Mulch? and Top Mulching Mistakes. Mulch is sold by the cubic yard. A cubic yard
would fill a box measuring 3 feet wide, 3 feet long, and 3 feet tall. One cubic yard of mulch will
cover an area of 160 square feet 2 inches deep. Before calling us with your order, measure the
area that you wish to mulch - length and width are enough - and we can calculate the mulch
volume that you need. We do not sell bagged mulch however for comparison, most bags of
mulch contain either 2 or 3 cubic feet. For most mulches, 9 bags equal one cubic yard. A 3 cubic
foot bag will cover approximately 18 square feet.
Step 4 - Where can the mulch be delivered?
Before you call with your order for mulch, give some consideration to where you would like us
to dump it on your property. Our trucks can hold a maximum of 25 yards of mulch so they have
considerable weight even when empty. We discourage dumping your mulch in any location that
requires the wheels of the truck to leave a hard surface - paving, concrete, asphalt or packed
gravel. Usually we deliver to some location on the homeowner's drive. Marking the location by
spreading a tarp on the drive before the time of delivery is especially helpful. Be sure to pay
attention to overhead wires or tree limbs. The truck bed has to tilt to dump the mulch so it
requires sufficient overhead clearance. Our truck requires at least 18 feet of overhead clearance.
See our delivery policies and delivery information pages.
Step 5 - How do I place my order?
Call Lowcountry Mulch at 971-7010. Have your measurements ready, the type of mulch you
would like, the delivery location, and the form of payment. We can accept a credit card - Visa,
Master Card, Discover or American Express - or you can pay with a check or cash at the time of
the delivery. There is a delivery charge and a minimum volume based on location. The delivery
charge is in addition to the price of the mulch. If you have any additional questions about
delivery or about our products, we would be happy to answer them at the time of your call. Of
course you can also place your order by coming into our location.
How to Order Rock
Step 1 - Which rock should I order?
The decision as to which rock to order depends on three things - price, aesthetics and use. We
have a selection of rock at Lowcountry Mulch suitable for driveways or paths, dry river beds,
leveling pavers, etc.
Step 2 - When can I have rock delivered?
We can deliver rock Monday - Saturday during business hours. Saturdays are more popular, so if
that is the day you want, be sure to call earlier. "Plan ahead" is the best advice.
We prefer not to deliver soil when it is raining. If it is raining at your scheduled delivery time,
we will call to recommend rescheduling your order.
Step 3 - How much rock do I need?
Applications for rock are usually measured by volume, but rock is sold by weight. For example
in a driveway application using Slag 57's, one ton covers approximately 125 square feet at 2
inches deep. Different rock have different coverage depending on the size and density of the
rock.
Step 4 -Where can rock be delivered?
Before you call with your order for rock, give some consideration to where you would like us to
dump it on your property. Our trucks can hold 8-10 tons of rock. We cannot dump your rock in
any location that requires the wheels of the truck to leave a hard surface - paving, concrete,
asphalt or packed gravel. Usually we deliver to some location on the home-owner's drive.
Marking the location by spreading a tarp on the drive before the time of delivery is especially
helpful. Be sure to pay attention to overhead wires or tree limbs. Our truck needs at least 18 feet
of overhead clearance in order for the bed to tilt to dump the rock. We are not able to spread the
rock in a drive by "tailgating" the load. We can try, but we cannot insure that the homeowner
will not have to smooth the rock with a rake.
Step 5 - How do I place my order?
Call Lowcountry Mulch at 971-7010. Have your measurements ready, the type of rock that you
want, the delivery location, and the form of payment. We accept credit cards - Visa and
MasterCard - or you can pay with a check or cash at the time of the delivery. There is a delivery
charge and a minimum tonnage based on location. The delivery charge is in addition to the price
of the rock. If you have any additional questions about delivery or about our products, we would
be happy to answer them at the time of your call. Of course you can also place your order by
coming into our stores.
Do-It-Yourself
When planning a new landscape improvement, it is important to know "what is
involved" to complete the project successfully.
Below are a collection of notes that help address many landscape projects.
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Landscape Design - Things to consider
Do-it-yourself or hire a contractor?
Do I need to have a plan?
How to hire the right contractor
DIY - Landscape Design
After moving into a new home surrounded by bare dirt, it may be a daunting task to do much
more than visualize your dream landscaping. Take heart ; the end results of proper landscape
design will be well worth the effort.
Too much sun, wind, lack of view or too much view of a neighboring property are all problems
that effective landscape design can help you overcome. Even better, attractive landscaping can
add as much as 17 percent to the value of your property; a $300,000 home could gain $50,000
when you go to sell it.
Landscaping consists both of hardscapes, the paved and permanent elements, and greenscapes,
plants, trees and shrubs. Landscape themes such as Natural, English, Formal, Japanese, and
Modern identify not only your property but also your tastes and preferences. Color, form, line,
scale, and texture are primary landscape design elements.
Natural looking block designs that effectively incorporate planters and appealing water elements
provide charming focus points.
Landscaping projects may be as big as a country estate or as small as a backyard cactus garden.
Whether large or small, your landscaping will add beauty, utility and value to your home.
Professional assistance is a crucial part of landscape design.
Since landscape construction can be expensive, look to landscape architects, designers and
contractors to help you get the most for your money. Professional fees are a surprisingly small
amount of the total cost of landscaping, so it is money well spent.
Where should you start? Well, first, don’t rush into your project. It takes some time to visually
consider your property’s environment. Take a few months to observe seasonal weather patterns,
sunlight, wind and rain, and the native shrubs and trees around you. When winter comes, notice
how leafless trees appear; when spring hits, compare shade and sun exposure differences.
Before you make plans for building a fence or planting shrubs and trees, take time to note how
close neighbors are, how sounds and traffic might affect you. Also, take time to consider your
family’s outdoor lifestyle; does it include active kids or active retirement?
Landscape design plans should consider the future, from use of your outdoor space to where
power lines run to avoid damage from tree branches and roots as they grow. Where trees might
deprive a deck of sun, shorter varieties should be considered. Remember, too, that it is better to
spend a bit more on rock or concrete materials that will last than pay less for those that tend to
break down quickly. Also, avoid extreme trends; a radical design that may seem avant-garde may
have questionable appeal after a few years.
Before you set out, make sure you are not reinventing the wheel. If you have a current landscape
that already suits many of your needs, perhaps just a few tweaks will help you achieve your
goals. Wherever possible, build a landscape plan that weaves native plants into your
surroundings for the obvious reasons that they "fit" well and will naturally do better.
Drive around the surrounding neighborhoods for comparison purposes and design ideas. Talk to
landscape professionals and view model homes and recently completed commercial buildings
with green spaces that are aesthetically pleasing. Keep in mind that plants are dynamic and
changing. You cannot always accurately predict how plants will fill in and affect the visual
impact of your yard and property.
Here is a checklist of ideas to keep in mind when planning your landscaping:
Theme and Purpose
Although landscape design serves two goals, making your property more accessible and more
physically or visually appealing, when you go to create the perfect landscape plan you should
think about what you really want. Your property is finite, so your landscape design should fit
your needs, not someone else’s. Avoid the temptation to install something just because a
neighbor may have it. Each landscaping element should have a specific purpose.
Talk with your landscape professional about your priorities, hobbies, health concerns,
preferences, and free time so he or she can customize a landscape master plan that takes these
into account.
Consider where you’ll be in five to ten years; prestige elements may serve your long-term goals,
but if you plan to retire elsewhere, create a landscape plan that maximizes resale appeal while
minimizing cost.
Talk with your spouse and family members about what they want most; a play-yard, hot tub and
lap pool are popular landscape elements, but you and your family may be tennis or volleyball
fans. Pick amenities you already enjoy or would really use. If you provide day care, safety,
accessibility, and seating around play areas might be your first priorities. If elderly family
members may be moving in or spending extended stays, you will want to include plans to make
what you do accessible for them as well.
Remember that because outdoor environments change seasonally you want to consider landscape
elements that can serve you throughout the year.
Sources For Ideas
Internet sites such as this one and library books are good places to get landscaping ideas, as are
trade shows, garden clubs and showcased homes. Home and building centers usually provide
free flyers with general ideas and tips, but the best place to get ideas is the world around you.
Bicycle or walk through your neighborhood and take in the details around you. You’ll see which
trees do best, which types of concrete facade and pavement ideas particularly complement a
particular style of home or landscape. Note which plants bloom at given times in the year, so you
can plant shrubs and trees with staggering flowering periods.
Allergies
Allergy prone? Watery eyes and sneezing are signs that you may have encountered a source of
pollen or other irritant. As you walk or bicycle, find out what kinds of trees and plants prevail in
your area and ask your allergist what kinds of local allergens create the most problems. Avoid
planting trees, flowers or shrubs that are known to trigger allergies in many people.
Some kinds of landscape and hardscape elements can trigger allergies because they encourage
the growth of certain types of mold and mildew, and some people can be allergic to pine
shavings, used in walkways and as plant bedding.
‘Street Legal’ Issues
Certain landscape and hardscape elements may be restricted in your city or neighborhood so
check building codes and planning regulations as well as homeowner association requirements
and deed restrictions. A community may be trying to return to native plants and want to
discourage or actively prevent planting so-called exotic trees and shrubs.
Maintenance
Consider the time and energy you personally want to devote to your landscaping and select
plants and themes that fit. Are you a rose grower or hands-on gardener? Then leave "blank"
space with proper drainage and irrigation for flowers and food crops you will enjoy growing. A
trellis or arbor for instance might do double-duty as a blackberry support; a barbecue area could
be effectively set off with raised planters you might use for growing lettuce and tomatoes.
If, on the other hand, you consider landscaping on the same level as elephants—enjoyable to
view but an upkeep nightmare—consider low maintenance elements that might include
automated irrigation, patios, rock gardens, ornamental trees and shrubs, and no-mow ground
cover plants.
The Bird’s Eye View
In helping you visualize "the big picture," landscape professionals often use terms like
"focalization" and "framing" to create landscaping that is balanced and in harmony with
surroundings. It is usually better to build a master plan than to try to integrate separate elements
so that each element will effectively harmonize with your home, your existing landscape, your
region, and your sense of style. This is especially where a professional landscape architect’s
sense of aesthetic balance and texture can prove invaluable. Your mind’s eye can help you bring
together all the elements, but keep in mind that a particular theme may be quite different than
you may expect. A sketch or design software package can also help you visualize your landscape
plan, but your best source of assistance is your landscape designer, architect or contractor.
Cost Considerations
Admittedly, landscaping done well does not come cheaply, so care in selecting landscape
professionals will go along way in bringing you value for your dollars. Here are some general
tips:
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Plan landscaping in more affordable stages; add new elements as budgets permit.
Plant lower priced ground cover and flowers before tackling the costlier elements; you
should consider walkways before you build, say a gazebo.
Even if you cannot afford everything right now, spend money up front on a professional
landscape plan you can refer to as you go.
Get professional bids and compare projects.
Select lower-maintenance elements; they will save you future upkeep and replacement
costs.
Plan to do some of the work yourself; you’ll save money and get a feeling of satisfaction
and accomplishment.
Professional Design Assistance
Professional assistance can come on various levels and include architects, designers and
contractors, who specialize in areas like masonry, plants, hardscape, decking, and irrigation.
Although landscape architects usually handle commercial projects, they also work for
homeowners. Typical minimum fees for home landscape design run in the range of $1,000 to
$2,000. This fee usually covers a report, sketches or a computerized rendering, and cost
estimates for materials and labor.
A qualified landscape architect is usually a good idea if your budget is $20,000 or more, and the
results could well last for generations.
Landscape designers may have less formal training and their expertise leans toward greenscapes.
Some landscape designers work for nurseries and garden companies and the cost of their services
may be rolled into large purchases of trees and plants.
If you are planning extensive hardscapes, like sidewalks, decks, walls and gazebos, you will
usually need to contact a landscape contractor.
Landscape contractors handle the actual construction in a landscape project. A masonry
specialist will handle block walls and paver installation, while a concrete contractor would
normally handle jobs like walkways and patios. A plumber or landscape irrigation contractor can
install and set up sprinklers and timers, while a landscape maintenance contractor can handle not
only the regular job of pruning and mowing, but also replace simple items like broken sprinklers
and plants.
Be sure to check references and get the addresses of projects completed by a contractor. Be sure
you and/or your contractor consult with an engineer if you expect to have slope and drainage
challenges on your property.
The ‘Native’ Advantage
Landscape design was once an extension of America’s sense of exploration and settlement; bold
and transforming. Often, English and European landscape ideas were pressed upon the new
continent and even in recent generations, new home development projects re-sculpted the land,
eschewing native plants and trees.
As landscape professionals began to realize that traditionalism didn’t always fit America’s
contemporary personality, they began putting new design ideas into practice, protecting natural
surroundings and weaving them into landscape master plans.
The following practices tend to create landscapes that better harmonize your natural
surroundings...
Retain native trees and plants; existing foliage is best suited to your weather and growing
conditions. Mature trees are a source of shade and beauty, while adding value to your property.
So, take steps to care for native plants and soil during home and landscape construction. Have
small trees and bushes transplanted instead of destroying them; similarly, you should make sure
to have native soils on your property protected by removing and stockpiling them for later reuse.
Whether planning desert xeriscaping or avoiding materials that will deteriorate in wet climates,
your landscape professional’s design should not only address your dreams but also allow for
plants that thrive in the areas and climates in which they are placed.
Frequently Asked Questions
Landscaping does not have to be hard. If you know more about any task, it is
almost always easier to complete.
Below is a collection of common questions we get asked. Chances are they may address your
particular questions. However, if these FAQ's do not answer your questions please feel free to
visit our Contact Us page and submit your questions. We will research your question and provide
you a answer.
This page will be updated as new question are asked.
General
1. What is a cubic yard?
2. Does material come in bags?
3. Can I pickup my landscape materials or can you deliver?
Mulch
1. Do I need to rake or remove the old bark, mulch, or pinestraw before the new
application?
2. Does hardwood bark mulch attract bugs?
3. Will hardwood bark mulch attract termites?
4. Why mulch?
5. How much mulch do I need?
6. How often do I need to mulch?
7. How do I apply mulch?
8. My budget does not allow me to use bark mulch. What alternatives do I have?
9. Sometimes I get mold on top of my mulch. What is it, and is it harmful?
10. What is mulch?
11. What's the difference between hardwood bark mulch, hardwood mulch, and colored
mulch?
12. When should I apply mulch?
13. Top mulching mistakes
Soil
1. What type of topsoil do I need?
2. What is composting or compost?
Straw
1. Are pine needles and pine straw the same thing?
2. What is the different between longleaf and slash pine straw?
3. How deep should a pine straw application be?
FAQ - General
1. What is a cubic yard?
One cubic yard is a volume measuring 3 feet wide, 3 feet long, and 3 feet tall. It is equal to 27
cubic feet. Your typical wheelbarrow holds 4-5 cubic feet of material or 1 cubic yard could fill
approximately 7-9 wheelbarrow loads. A typical pickup truck with a 6ft bed can hold 2-3 CY.
An 8ft bed can hold 3-4CY. A calculator is included on each product page to help you with your
project needs.
2. Does material come in bags?
For the most part, all our products are loose and available by pickup or delivery.
3. Can I pickup my landscape materials or will you deliver?
You can pick up any of our products or we can deliver them to you. Most pickup trucks hold 1-3
cubic yards of mulch, but are limited to about ½ to 1 ton of weight. Our trucks can safely deliver
20 CY of mulch, 10 CY of soil, 8 tons of rock, stone & sand or approximately 200 bales of
straw. For delivery, we charge a flat fee based on location. See our Delivery Fee information.
FAQ - Mulch
1. Do I need to rake or remove the old bark, mulch, or pinestraw before the new
application?
There is no need to remove the old ground cover (bark, mulch, pinestraw). As the material
breaks down, it will add organic matter and nutrients into the soil. It is like a slow release
fertilizer. When applying new ground cover, you want to add enough material so that the mulch
is no deeper than 3 inches around shrubs and trees or 2 inches around flowers. Adding more than
that can actually be harmful to the plants. Before adding new material it is always a good idea to
cultivate the old material first breaking up any matting that has occurred.
2. Does hardwood bark mulch attract bugs?
Any organic material has the capability to attract insects. However, this is not bad, as insects and
other microscopic critters are part of a healthy ecosystem that actually benefits your yard. In
time, the mulch will breakdown and enrich your soil, thus providing a great source of nutrients
for your plants. And healthy plants are the complement to any healthy ecosystem.
3. Will hardwood bark mulch attract termites?
This is a very common question. The answer is no. Termites are attracted to wood found below
the earth's surface. Since mulch is used above ground, it does not attract termites. As added
protection, our "bark" mulches are made from the bark of the tree, not the white wood on which
termites like to dine on.
4. Why should I mulch?
Adding mulch to existing or new landscape beds is one of the most important things you can do
foe the vitality of your yard. Acting as a natural fertilizer, mulch also provides a visually
appealing enhancement to any landscape.
Insulation:
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Conserves moisture – reduces your dependence on irrigation
Moderates extreme temperature – keeps soil warm in cold temperatures and cool
in hot temperatures
Controls weeds – creates a barrier between the soil and weed seeds which inhibits
the germination of those seeds into weeds.
Amendment:
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Aerates the soil and prevents compaction
Improves soil composition when it breaks down
5. How much mulch do I need?
First, you will need to know the area (square footage) of the landscape bed that needs to be
covered. To determine this, simply multiply the length by the width. Then, refer to our product
calculator (included on each product page) to figure out the rest. If you’re still reading and want
to know more, I’ll fill you in on some more details. Let's say the area you want to cover is 40 ft
long by 30 ft wide. Your square footage would be 1,200 sq ft. If you want to have the depth of 2
inches, you would take 1,200 and multiply that by 324/2.
6. How often do I need to mulch?
This depends on what kind of mulch you prefer and how fresh a landscape you want. To keep
"bark" mulches looking fresh, you need to mulch once a year since they tend to break down (and
enrich) the soil quicker. Colored mulches ultimately fade. To keep them looking vibrant you may
need to top-dress them once a year. Top dressing is the method of applying about an inch of
material on top of existing material.
7. How do I apply mulch?
Before applying any type of mulch, it is best to weed the area. Spread a layer of mulching
materials over the entire plant bed. Keep mulch 2 to 3 inches away from the stems of woody
plants in order to prevent decay caused by excess moisture and rodent damage. Keep mulch 6 to
12 inches away from the walls of buildings.
Subterranean termites nest in the soil and feed on materials that contain cellulose. Termite
treatments are applied to the soil around buildings, so keeping mulch away from walls will
prevent termites from using it as a bridge to cross treated soil.
Newly planted trees require a circle of mulch 3 to 4 feet in diameter. Maintain this for at least
three years taking care not to pile mulch against the trunk. For established trees, create a circle of
mulch about 2 feet in diameter for each inch of trunk diameter. Increase the size of the mulched
area as the tree grows, keeping the mulch at least 6 to 12 inches beyond the drip-line of the tree.
Because the root system can extend to two to three times the crown spread of the tree, mulch as
large an area as possible.
8. My budget does not allow me to use bark mulch. What alternatives do I have?
Budgets matter. That is why we offer a less expensive mulch that is a grade below bark mulch. It
is called Double Ground Mulch, which is primarily a wood mulch recommend for use around
natural areas away from houses.
A second option is to use black plastic. It is a widely used cover in the nursery business. It is not
the most attractive alternative, but will aid in controlling weeds, reducing watering needs, and
moderating soil temperature.
A third option is to use leaves or grass clippings. If you bag your grass clippings or rake leaves in
the fall, save them for placement in your beds. With leaves, you will want to shred them first and
allow them to break down slightly -- failing to do this will decrease the amount of water that can
reach the soil. With grass clippings, you will want to let them age also -- fresh grass clippings
can rob other plants of nitrogen as it decomposes. Allow them to lose their green color before
using them as mulch.
9. Sometimes I get mold on top of my mulch. What is it, and is it harmful?
When the weather gets very hot and humid, a fungus sometimes grows on top of mulch. Bright
yellow to yellowish-brown in color, it can be unpleasant to look at. This fungus is not harmful
and can be easily removed by raking or spraying water on the affected area.
10. What is mulch?
Mulch can be almost anything, usually organic matter, that is used to protect the soil from
erosion, control weed growth, prevent the evaporation of moisture, or maintaining an even soil
temperature.
11. What's the difference between hardwood bark mulch, hardwood mulch, and
colored mulch?
Anything with "bark" in the name will be at least 85% bark of the tree that is named. "bark"
mulch is made from the bark that comes off hardwood trees when they are processed in a
sawmill.
Hardwood mulch can be any mulch containing any kind of hardwood. It can be bark and white
wood or just the white wood. Wood tends to breakdown quicker than bark. The mulch also
seems to be more susceptible to insect damage than bark.
Colored mulch is usually made from ground up waste wood or pallets. It can also be made from
Cypress. This wood fiber material is dyed with a colorant to create a rainbow of colors.
12. When should I apply mulch?
Time of application depends on what you hope to achieve by mulching. Mulches, by providing
an insulating barrier between the soil and the air, moderate the soil temperature. This means that
a mulched soil in the summer will be cooler than an adjacent unmulched soil; while in the winter,
the mulched soil may not freeze as deeply. However, since mulch acts as an insulating layer,
mulched soils tend to warm up more slowly in the spring and cool down more slowly in the fall
than unmulched soils.
If you are using mulches in your vegetable garden or flower garden, it is best to apply them after
the soil has warmed up in the spring. Cool, wet soils tend to slow seed germination and increase
the decay of seeds and seedlings.
If adding additional layers of mulch to existing perennial beds, wait until the soil has warmed
completely.
Mulches used to help moderate winter temperatures can be applied late in the fall after the
ground has frozen but before the coldest temperatures arrive. Applying mulches before the
ground has frozen may attract rodents looking for a warm over-wintering site. Delayed
applications of mulch should prevent this problem as, hopefully, the creatures would already
have found some other place to nest!
Mulches used to protect plants over winter should be loose material such as straw, hay, or pine
boughs that will help insulate the plants without compacting under the weight of snow and ice.
One of the benefits from winter applications of mulch is the reduction in the freezing and
thawing of the soil in the late winter and early spring. These repeated cycles of freezing at night
and then thawing in the warmth of the sun cause many small or shallow rooted plants to be
heaved out of the soil. This leaves their root systems exposed and results in injury or death.
Mulching helps prevent the rapid fluctuations in soil temperature and reduces the chances of
heaving.
FAQ - Soil
1. What type of topsoil do I need?
Choose your topsoil based on the specific application.
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Our standard topsoil is a native soil that has not been screened. It is a good choice for any
economic project.
Our screened topsoil is screened resulting in material that passes through a ¾” screen. Its
organic content is superior for growing medium for all types of landscapes.
Our organic topsoil is a native soil blended with sand and even more organic material. It
is also screened to produce a product that is ¾” and smaller.
2. What is composting or compost?
Composting is controlling the natural decay of organic matter by providing the right conditions
for composting critters to convert organic matter into a product that can be returned to your
landscape and garden. Tiny organisms (mainly bacteria, fungi and protozoa) break down garden
and landscape trimmings in a moist, aerobic (oxygen-demanding) environment. The final
product is a dark, crumbly form of decomposed organic matter. Compost improves your soil.
When added to soil, compost breaks up heavy clay soils, helps sandy soils retain water and
nutrients, and releases essential nutrients. Compost also contains beneficial microscopic
organisms that build up the soil and make nutrients available to plants. Improving your soil is the
first step towards growing healthy plants.
Think of compost as a soil amendment and not as a fertilizer, since the nutrient level of compost
is low and released over time. Mix compost with soil to enrich the flower and vegetable garden.
It can be used to improve the soil around trees and shrubs, as a top-dressing for lawns, or as a
mulch.
FAQ - Straw
1. Are pine needles the same as pine straw?
Yes, pine needles and pine straw are the same thing.
2. What is the difference between longleaf and slash pine straw?
Both are pine straw mulch (pine needles).
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Longleaf pine straw averages 14 inches in length and is considered a premium pine
needle used for landscape projects requiring the highest quality straw.
Slash or short needle pine straw averages 9 inches in length and is used for the typical
commercial or home landscape project.
3. How deep should a pine straw application be?
Pine straw should be spread 3 inches deep on the ground surface.
You will receive the pine straw from us bundled in bales, the rope that holds the bale together
should be removed. You should then grab handfuls and shake over the desired area so that it is
distributed in a loose, fluffy manner. While this is a bit time consuming, it will achieve two very
important objectives, providing a very attractive ground cover and yielding the correct square
footage from each bale.
Applying the straw in a clumpy fashion will result in a much less attractive look and will cover a
smaller area.
A three inch depth is needed to ensure proper looks and weed control. This will settle to 1.5
inches over time.
FAQ - General
1. What is a cubic yard?
One cubic yard is a volume measuring 3 feet wide, 3 feet long, and 3 feet tall. It is equal to 27
cubic feet. Your typical wheelbarrow holds 4-5 cubic feet of material or 1 cubic yard could fill
approximately 7-9 wheelbarrow loads. A typical pickup truck with a 6ft bed can hold 2-3 CY.
An 8ft bed can hold 3-4CY. A calculator is included on each product page to help you with your
project needs.
2. Does material come in bags?
For the most part, all our products are loose and available by pickup or delivery.
3. Can I pickup my landscape materials or will you deliver?
You can pick up any of our products or we can deliver them to you. Most pickup trucks hold 1-3
cubic yards of mulch, but are limited to about ½ to 1 ton of weight. Our trucks can safely deliver
20 CY of mulch, 10 CY of soil, 8 tons of rock, stone & sand or approximately 200 bales of
straw. For delivery, we charge a flat fee based on location. See our Delivery Fee information.
FAQ - Mulch
1. Do I need to rake or remove the old bark, mulch, or pinestraw before the new
application?
There is no need to remove the old ground cover (bark, mulch, pinestraw). As the material
breaks down, it will add organic matter and nutrients into the soil. It is like a slow release
fertilizer. When applying new ground cover, you want to add enough material so that the mulch
is no deeper than 3 inches around shrubs and trees or 2 inches around flowers. Adding more than
that can actually be harmful to the plants. Before adding new material it is always a good idea to
cultivate the old material first breaking up any matting that has occurred.
2. Does hardwood bark mulch attract bugs?
Any organic material has the capability to attract insects. However, this is not bad, as insects and
other microscopic critters are part of a healthy ecosystem that actually benefits your yard. In
time, the mulch will breakdown and enrich your soil, thus providing a great source of nutrients
for your plants. And healthy plants are the complement to any healthy ecosystem.
3. Will hardwood bark mulch attract termites?
This is a very common question. The answer is no. Termites are attracted to wood found below
the earth's surface. Since mulch is used above ground, it does not attract termites. As added
protection, our "bark" mulches are made from the bark of the tree, not the white wood on which
termites like to dine on.
4. Why should I mulch?
Adding mulch to existing or new landscape beds is one of the most important things you can do
foe the vitality of your yard. Acting as a natural fertilizer, mulch also provides a visually
appealing enhancement to any landscape.
Insulation:
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Conserves moisture – reduces your dependence on irrigation
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Moderates extreme temperature – keeps soil warm in cold temperatures and cool
in hot temperatures
Controls weeds – creates a barrier between the soil and weed seeds which inhibits
the germination of those seeds into weeds.
Amendment:
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Aerates the soil and prevents compaction
Improves soil composition when it breaks down
5. How much mulch do I need?
First, you will need to know the area (square footage) of the landscape bed that needs to be
covered. To determine this, simply multiply the length by the width. Then, refer to our product
calculator (included on each product page) to figure out the rest. If you’re still reading and want
to know more, I’ll fill you in on some more details. Let's say the area you want to cover is 40 ft
long by 30 ft wide. Your square footage would be 1,200 sq ft. If you want to have the depth of 2
inches, you would take 1,200 and multiply that by 324/2.
6. How often do I need to mulch?
This depends on what kind of mulch you prefer and how fresh a landscape you want. To keep
"bark" mulches looking fresh, you need to mulch once a year since they tend to break down (and
enrich) the soil quicker. Colored mulches ultimately fade. To keep them looking vibrant you may
need to top-dress them once a year. Top dressing is the method of applying about an inch of
material on top of existing material.
7. How do I apply mulch?
Before applying any type of mulch, it is best to weed the area. Spread a layer of mulching
materials over the entire plant bed. Keep mulch 2 to 3 inches away from the stems of woody
plants in order to prevent decay caused by excess moisture and rodent damage. Keep mulch 6 to
12 inches away from the walls of buildings.
Subterranean termites nest in the soil and feed on materials that contain cellulose. Termite
treatments are applied to the soil around buildings, so keeping mulch away from walls will
prevent termites from using it as a bridge to cross treated soil.
Newly planted trees require a circle of mulch 3 to 4 feet in diameter. Maintain this for at least
three years taking care not to pile mulch against the trunk. For established trees, create a circle of
mulch about 2 feet in diameter for each inch of trunk diameter. Increase the size of the mulched
area as the tree grows, keeping the mulch at least 6 to 12 inches beyond the drip-line of the tree.
Because the root system can extend to two to three times the crown spread of the tree, mulch as
large an area as possible.
8. My budget does not allow me to use bark mulch. What alternatives do I have?
Budgets matter. That is why we offer a less expensive mulch that is a grade below bark mulch. It
is called Double Ground Mulch, which is primarily a wood mulch recommend for use around
natural areas away from houses.
A second option is to use black plastic. It is a widely used cover in the nursery business. It is not
the most attractive alternative, but will aid in controlling weeds, reducing watering needs, and
moderating soil temperature.
A third option is to use leaves or grass clippings. If you bag your grass clippings or rake leaves in
the fall, save them for placement in your beds. With leaves, you will want to shred them first and
allow them to break down slightly -- failing to do this will decrease the amount of water that can
reach the soil. With grass clippings, you will want to let them age also -- fresh grass clippings
can rob other plants of nitrogen as it decomposes. Allow them to lose their green color before
using them as mulch.
9. Sometimes I get mold on top of my mulch. What is it, and is it harmful?
When the weather gets very hot and humid, a fungus sometimes grows on top of mulch. Bright
yellow to yellowish-brown in color, it can be unpleasant to look at. This fungus is not harmful
and can be easily removed by raking or spraying water on the affected area.
10. What is mulch?
Mulch can be almost anything, usually organic matter, that is used to protect the soil from
erosion, control weed growth, prevent the evaporation of moisture, or maintaining an even soil
temperature.
11. What's the difference between hardwood bark mulch, hardwood mulch, and
colored mulch?
Anything with "bark" in the name will be at least 85% bark of the tree that is named. "bark"
mulch is made from the bark that comes off hardwood trees when they are processed in a
sawmill.
Hardwood mulch can be any mulch containing any kind of hardwood. It can be bark and white
wood or just the white wood. Wood tends to breakdown quicker than bark. The mulch also
seems to be more susceptible to insect damage than bark.
Colored mulch is usually made from ground up waste wood or pallets. It can also be made from
Cypress. This wood fiber material is dyed with a colorant to create a rainbow of colors.
12. When should I apply mulch?
Time of application depends on what you hope to achieve by mulching. Mulches, by providing
an insulating barrier between the soil and the air, moderate the soil temperature. This means that
a mulched soil in the summer will be cooler than an adjacent unmulched soil; while in the winter,
the mulched soil may not freeze as deeply. However, since mulch acts as an insulating layer,
mulched soils tend to warm up more slowly in the spring and cool down more slowly in the fall
than unmulched soils.
If you are using mulches in your vegetable garden or flower garden, it is best to apply them after
the soil has warmed up in the spring. Cool, wet soils tend to slow seed germination and increase
the decay of seeds and seedlings.
If adding additional layers of mulch to existing perennial beds, wait until the soil has warmed
completely.
Mulches used to help moderate winter temperatures can be applied late in the fall after the
ground has frozen but before the coldest temperatures arrive. Applying mulches before the
ground has frozen may attract rodents looking for a warm over-wintering site. Delayed
applications of mulch should prevent this problem as, hopefully, the creatures would already
have found some other place to nest!
Mulches used to protect plants over winter should be loose material such as straw, hay, or pine
boughs that will help insulate the plants without compacting under the weight of snow and ice.
One of the benefits from winter applications of mulch is the reduction in the freezing and
thawing of the soil in the late winter and early spring. These repeated cycles of freezing at night
and then thawing in the warmth of the sun cause many small or shallow rooted plants to be
heaved out of the soil. This leaves their root systems exposed and results in injury or death.
Mulching helps prevent the rapid fluctuations in soil temperature and reduces the chances of
heaving.
FAQ - Soil
1. What type of topsoil do I need?
Choose your topsoil based on the specific application.
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Our standard topsoil is a native soil that has not been screened. It is a good choice for any
economic project.
Our screened topsoil is screened resulting in material that passes through a ¾” screen. Its
organic content is superior for growing medium for all types of landscapes.
Our organic topsoil is a native soil blended with sand and even more organic material. It
is also screened to produce a product that is ¾” and smaller.
2. What is composting or compost?
Composting is controlling the natural decay of organic matter by providing the right conditions
for composting critters to convert organic matter into a product that can be returned to your
landscape and garden. Tiny organisms (mainly bacteria, fungi and protozoa) break down garden
and landscape trimmings in a moist, aerobic (oxygen-demanding) environment. The final
product is a dark, crumbly form of decomposed organic matter. Compost improves your soil.
When added to soil, compost breaks up heavy clay soils, helps sandy soils retain water and
nutrients, and releases essential nutrients. Compost also contains beneficial microscopic
organisms that build up the soil and make nutrients available to plants. Improving your soil is the
first step towards growing healthy plants.
Think of compost as a soil amendment and not as a fertilizer, since the nutrient level of compost
is low and released over time. Mix compost with soil to enrich the flower and vegetable garden.
It can be used to improve the soil around trees and shrubs, as a top-dressing for lawns, or as a
mulch.
FAQ - Straw
1. Are pine needles the same as pine straw?
Yes, pine needles and pine straw are the same thing.
2. What is the difference between longleaf and slash pine straw?
Both are pine straw mulch (pine needles).
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Longleaf pine straw averages 14 inches in length and is considered a premium pine
needle used for landscape projects requiring the highest quality straw.
Slash or short needle pine straw averages 9 inches in length and is used for the typical
commercial or home landscape project.
3. How deep should a pine straw application be?
Pine straw should be spread 3 inches deep on the ground surface.
You will receive the pine straw from us bundled in bales, the rope that holds the bale together
should be removed. You should then grab handfuls and shake over the desired area so that it is
distributed in a loose, fluffy manner. While this is a bit time consuming, it will achieve two very
important objectives, providing a very attractive ground cover and yielding the correct square
footage from each bale.
Applying the straw in a clumpy fashion will result in a much less attractive look and will cover a
smaller area.
A three inch depth is needed to ensure proper looks and weed control. This will settle to 1.5
inches over time.