Operators Manual
Operators Manual
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Stormy
Operators Manual
Stormy Operators Manual Rev. 1
2765 Florance Rd.
Ponder, TX. 76259
P. 940-479-2200
F. 940-479-2210
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Stormy
[email protected]
Operators Manual
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Stormy
Operators Manual
Table of Contents:
Lifting your Stormy ……….……………………………………………………………………………… 5
When First Receiving Your Stormy ……….…………………………………………………………...…. 5
Tether Option ……………………………………………………………………………………………10
Transporting Stormy with Fluid ………………………………………………………………………….12
Getting Started ………………………………………………………………………...…………………15
Grounding the Stormy ……………………………………………………………………………...…… 16
Mixing Bentonite ……………………………………………………………………………………...… 19
Send Fluid to Drilling Rig ……………………………………………………………………………….. 20
Fluid Level ……………………………………………………………………………………………… 20
Send Fluid to Shaker ……………………………………………………………………………………. 20
Mud Cleaning …………………………………………………………………………………………… 21
Screens ………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 22
Lift Pump/Pit Pump ...……………………………………………………………………………….….. 23
Cones …………………………………………………………………………………………………..... 24
Generator Service ……………………………………………………………………………………….. 25
Main Electrical Box ……………………………………………………………………………………... 26
Daily Maintenance ………………………………………………………………………………………. 26
Weekly Maintenance …………………………………………………………………………………….. 27
Using Information from Testing Fluid …………………………………………………………………... 27
Winterizing ……………………………………………………………………………………………… 28
End of Crossing ………………………………………………………………………………………… 30
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Lifting your Stormy:
CAUTION: Always lift the machine empty, without any fluid inside the tanks.
The Stormy is left side heavy (generator side). Balance the Stormy before lifting from the ISO block
in each corner, using the appropriately rated lifting equipment.
When First Receiving Your Stormy:

Check the oil, fuel, and coolant/anti-freeze levels in generator. Refill if necessary.
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

Clean leaves and any debris out of the tanks and the hopper.
Make sure the 2” pipe plugs (tank drains) have Teflon tape, and are installed and tightened.
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
Inspect the screens for holes, and check the wedges on the shaker and tighten each of them
using each of the wedges’ correlated prying supports or a rubber mallet as needed (Be
Careful! Do not poke a hole in the screens).

Inflate all of the air bags on the shaker. Inflate the side air bags to between 10 - 25 PSI and
the front air bag to between 10 - 25 PSI (Air pressure is not important on the front air bag
as long as there is no metal to metal contact). Always transport unit with air bags
deflated.
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
Verify the generator’s fuel valve is open (bottom of fuel tank near radiator).

Turn on the generator’s Battery Disconnect Switch (located below the Main Electrical Box)
and switch the main breaker to the “ON” position, pull the E-STOP button out and ensure
that all electric motors’ Start/Stop buttons are in the “Stop” position.
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
Start the generator. Push and release the “AUTO” button, then push and release the “RUN”
button. It will take a few seconds to preheat and then it will start.


Starting with the shaker, test each function for 3 seconds then shut off each function.
When shutting the generator off, you must press the generator control panel’s “OFF”
button.
Note: The E-stop will stop all motors immediately and the generator after 3 seconds..
Note: All of our generators run on clean fuel only! Make sure you have additional fuel filters
on hand. Your fuel has to be kept clean! If you are fueling from a transfer tank (make sure
the transfer tank has a fuel filter), change the inline fuel filter every 250 hrs. Part # 108 or
equal.
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Tether Option:

The tether option allows the operator to control the “MIX/RIG” and “PIT” pumps from the
drill operator’s seat. There are two modes: In Platform Mode, all operations are conducted
from the reclaimer’s platform. In Tether Mode, the “Mix & Rig” and “Pit” pumps are
operated from the Tether Control away from the reclaimer.
Note: It is advisable for personnel to inspect the unit periodically when using the Tether
Control.
Note: If the Platform/Tether switch is in Tether Mode and Tether Control is not
connected, the generator will activate the E-Stop and will not start until the Tether
Control gets connected or you switch the reclaimer to Platform Mode.
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In Tether Mode: (with Tether Plug connected)
A. The Generator can be started only from the Platform.
B. E-Stops on the Platform and on the Tether Control will shut off all motors instantly
and turn OFF the generator after 3sec.
C. “Mix/Rig” and “Lift/Pit” pumps can be operated from the Tether Control ONLY.
Those pumps CAN NOT be operated from the Platform.
D. “Shaker” and “Cone” pumps can be operated from the Platform only not from the
Tether Control.
In Platform Mode:
A. The Generator can be started only from the Platform.
B. E-Stop on the Platform will shut off the pump’s motors instantly and turn OFF the
generator after 3sec. The E-Stop on the Tether Controller will not work.
C. All pumps and motors can be operated from the Platform only, the Tether Control
will not operate any function.
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Transporting Stormy with Fluid:

Before transporting the Stormy with fluids.
o Make sure all the tanks drain plugs are installed, tightened, and secured.
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o Mix/Rig pump’s drain valve, garden hose valve, inlet and outlet valves are closed.
o Cone pumps’ drain and inlet valves are closed.
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o Dirty tank is empty.
o Shaker’s air bags are deflated and shaker secure.



Stormy can be transported with fluids in the clean tank only when the clean tank cover is
installed and secure.
Dirty tank must be emptied for transportation. Spills and/or trailer overturn is possible if
transported with fluid in the dirty tank.
Stormy can be transported with dry cuttings only (No Fluids) in the spoils tank.
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Getting Started:

Find a level area or level an area to locate the Stormy. Setup the Stormy so that the Lift/Pit
Pump hose will reach the return pit and you are able to see the drill and yet still be clear of
the driller’s work area. If you are reclaiming from the exit pit, you will need a vacuum truck
or a transfer pump to send the spoils back to the reclaimer.
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Grounding the Stormy:
Caution: The unit is a 480 volt system! Don’t skip this step!
Locate the “Grounding Plate” on the pump side of the Stormy and verify the length of the
attached ground wire. Dig a 24”X 24”, 2 feet deep hole within the reach of the attached
ground wire. Set the Grounding Plate at the bottom of the hole and cover it back again with
the dirt.

Fuel generator if required. If you fuel from a transfer tank, you may have to change fuel
filters more often.
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
Inflate all of the air bags on the shaker. Inflate the side air bags to between 10 - 25 PSI and
the front air bag to between 10 - 25 PSI as well. The front air bag is used to adjust the
shaker’s angle (Air pressure is not important in the front air bag as long as there is no metal
to metal contact. However, with more air pressure in the front air bag, the shaker screen’s
incline angle will decrease, and consequently, the spoils will run across the screens faster).
Always transport the unit with all air bags deflated.

Grease the Lift/Pit pump bearings and place it in return pit (Do not submerge electrical
motor in water). Attach 3” hose and power cord. Keep the electric motor above ground
level.

If the centrifugal pumps have a grease fitting in the packing glands, you will need to grease
them every 6 hours. If the centrifugal pumps have a plug instead of a grease fitting, then
you do not need to grease the packing gland, since they are mechanical seals.
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
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If Stormy is trailer mounted, lower jacks and level before filling with Fluid. Mixed bentonite
weighs about 9.5lbs per gallon, Spoils weigh up to 15lbs per gallon, in addition to the
weight of Stormy (6,000lbs), and the weight of the trailer. You could get up to 20,000lbs.
Open all inlet/outlet valves to the centrifugal pumps except the “TO RIG” outlet valve.
Turn generator’s Battery Disconnect Switch to “ON”. Ensure the main breaker is in the “ON”
position. Pull all E-STOP buttons out. Put all Start/Stop buttons in the “Stop” position and
start the generator.
Turn on the shaker by pushing the “shaker” button and fill the Stormy with fluids. Always
fill over shaker screens in the dirty tank.
Check PH of water. Stabilize if over 9 by adding soda ash. Recheck PH every time you
change your water source. If you are filling from a water truck the first tank may be
influenced from your last job. It is best to check the PH daily.
Start the “Shaker” first, “Cones” second, “Mix/Rig” third. All three will stay on most of the
time. No order for powering off. Start the “Lift Pump/Pit Pump” as needed.
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
Tools needed:
o Mud test kit, including sand content, scale and PH test strips.
o Pry Bar and rubber mallet for tightening screens.
o Wrench for plugs.
o Grease gun.
o Operators Manual.
Mixing Bentonite
 Mix bentonite through the mixing hopper at the mixing table until the desired viscosity.
Your mixing rate should be 3 to 5 minutes per bag or per the bentonite manufacturer’s
recommendation. Don’t feed too fast, the Thunderstorm will take it but bentonite will
clump. Open the clean tank floor jets valve and close the dirty tank floor jets valve to help
with the mixing and prevent bentonite clumps.



Use the dirty tank floor jets 5 to 10 minutes at a time to prevent settling in the dirty tank.
Do not use the clean tank and dirty tank floor jets at the same time, it can cause cavitation
on the rig’s mud pump and/or lower its flow output.
Do not let centrifugal pumps run dry (empty tank). The fluid keeps the packing glands and
mechanical seals cool preventing them from burning up.
The fluid supplying the cones is from the dirty tank. After being processed by the cones, the
fluid goes to the clean tank. When the clean tank is full, it will over flow back into the dirty
tank to get clean again. The more this process happens the cleaner the fluid is.
NOTE: Do not be concerned with sand being discharged from the cones while mixing bentonite.
Water and bentonite have sand in them. If clumps of bentonite are being discharged from cones
slow down the dumping of bentonite in the hopper. Read the manufacturer’s recommended
dumping rate on the back of bentonite’s bag. Usually it is 5 minutes per bag.
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Send fluid to drilling rig:
 Attach the drill’s 2” hose to the “Mix & Rig” pump, then open the valve. Always use a rigid
hose instead of a fire or pump discharge hose, very important on rigs requiring high flow. If
there is any air in the line you can bleed it at the drill or it will work its way out.
 Once the hose to the rig is attached and valve is open, there is no need to shut off the “Mix &
Rig” pump valve. It will help keep the clean tank agitated.
Fluid level:
 Do not overfill the dirty tank! Fluid should overflow from the clean tank to the dirty tank, if
the dirty tank overflows into the clean tank, the drilling fluid going to the Drill will not be
clean. To prevent accidental overflow keep a maximum dirty tank level of 90% full.
Send fluid to shaker:
 Attach the 3” hose from the Lift Pump/Pit Pump to the 3” Drilling Fluid Valve.
 Open the Drilling Fluid Valve (You can adjust the amount of fluid going onto the scalper
screens by regulating the Drilling Fluid Valve).
 Connect the Lift Pump/Pit Pump power cord.
 Once there is enough fluid in the return pit, turn ON the Lift Pump/Pit Pump to send fluid
to the shaker.
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
Never let sand or polymers dry on screens. Wash off screens often. Always wash off
at the end of a shift.
Mud Cleaning:

The bottom screens, scalpers, do the first pass of cleaning. Use the screens to take out as
much of the solids and sand as possible. The best case scenario is if the fluid almost runs off
the shaker but doesn’t.
o You need to have just enough fluid coming back to keep up with drilling process. If
you have to shut off pit pump and wait for the fluid level to go down in tank, you can
probably use finer screens. If your sand content is below 1%, you don’t need to
change anything.
o Adjust the angle of the shaker using the front, single, air bag to slow down or speed
up the flow across the screens.
o Change screens to a finer screen if all the fluid is falling thru the first screen or
change to coarser screen if fluid is running off shaker.
o The finer the scalper screens, the less work the cones have to do.

The cones do the fine cleaning, down to 20 microns, but only take out about 90% of the
sand per pass. The dirtier the fluid in the dirty tank, the more passes are required. Allow
the cones to clean and re-clean as often as possible. The cone pump draws from the dirty
tank and sends it into the clean tank. As the clean tank gets full, it will overflow back into
the dirty tank allowing the cones to clean again. This is why it is important to keep the
clean tank agitated and everything suspended. The more passes the cones clean, the
cleaner the drilling fluid will be going back to the drill.
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


If there is a hole or tear in the screens the cones have to work harder (more passes). It is
very important to monitor the screens. This may lead to premature wear of the mud pump
on the drill.
If you get a tear in a screen it will show up when testing for sand content. Best to test for
sand every hour and record.
Keep screens clean. Do not allow mud or polymer to dry on the screens. Wash
screens often with fresh water or with the provided garden hose and sprayer if no
fresh water is available.
Screens:
Standard Screens (In API Designation):
Due to variances in soil conditions there is no screen set that will work with every soil type in
every region and on every hole. Experience and a good assortment of screens will help you fine
tune your reclaimer for every job.
Scalper (Bottom Screens) – 60 “Back” (Close to spoils chute), 45 “Front” (Under the Mud
Dump Box)
Cones (Top Screen) – 120 (Underneath the Cones)
Rules of thumb:
Blinding screens- Select finer screens.
Cones fluid overflow- Select one step coarser screen.
Cones overload- Select finer scalper screens.
Scalper fluid overflow- Select one step coarser Back screen and/or one step coarser Front
screen.


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The goal is to use as fine a screen as possible without fluid running off the shaker. Adjusting
the angle using the front air bag will help.
If all the fluid falls thru first screen and never makes it to next screen then the screen is too
coarse and should be finer. The angle of the shaker can be adjusted down (more air in front
airbag) to move fluid faster and may alleviate the problem.
Never allow anything on screens to dry, including polymers, it will plug the screens.
Wash off screens often and at end of shift.
The wedges for the screens will float. Still it is best to not drop them when changing
screens.
You can use 100% silicone in a caulking gun to repair a tear in screens while waiting for
another screen or waiting for down time to replace screens.
It is best to keep a good selection of screens on hand.
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Lift Pump/Pit Pump:

The Lift pump/Pit Pump works best when hung or spaced off the bottom of the return pit.
Try to keep the big pieces away from bowl. Always use the basket/ guard that is provided
with Lift Pump/Pit Pump.
Caution: Do not submerge electric motor under water:

If something gets lodged in Lift Pump/Pit Pump it may throw a breaker. If the breaker is
adjusted correctly it will trip. Consult your local dealer if the Lift Pump/Pit Pump continues
to trip the breaker. Remove Lift Pump/Pit Pump and remove obstacle and then restart and
test. Now place back into return pit, avoiding the obstacles.
Caution: Always Lock Out/Tag Out the Battery Disconnect Switch before working in the
Main Electrical Box:
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


The cord to the Lift Pump/Pit Pump has a ground included in it, but does no good if Stormy
is not grounded. Ground Lift Pump/Pit Pump if Stormy is not grounded.
If no fluid is being transferred to shaker for an extended time, turn off the Lift Pump/Pit
Pump.
Inspect impeller, bearings, shaft and coupling in Lift Pump/Pit Pump, replace if worn. The
entire impeller assembly (Part #920) includes bearings, shaft and coupler.
Cones:

The Cones can last up to 2 years, but they can wear earlier depending on how much they
have been cleaning throughout the year. A good sign of wear is the excessive fluid
discharge from the nozzle and decrease cleaning performance.

Cone inspection:
1- Remove the cone from the manifold by removing the 2” Victaulic clamp (1) and the 4
flange bolts.
2- Remove the Nozzle Nut (6) and Apex valve (5) from the cone body (4).
3- Remove the cone’s T-Bolt clamp (3) to separate the cap (2) from the body (4).
4- Look inside the cap for signs of wear and/or grooves near the inlet’s bore.
5- Look inside the body for signs of wear and/or grooves near the nozzle output.
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Generator Service:
Part Numbers:
1. Oil Filter- #109
2. Inline Fuel Filter- #108
3. Perkins Main Fuel Filter- #107
4. Air Filter- #113
The Stormy comes standard with a Tier 4i engine powering the Gen Set. All Tier 4 engines require
clean fuel.
 Replace 5/16” Inline Fuel Filter every 250 hours. Part #108
 Service engine including all filters after the first 100 hours.
 Service engine at 500 hours interval, 1000 hours, 1500 hours… for the life of the unit.
 Check Air Filter every100 hours.
 Contact your Perkins Dealer for information on Emission control service.
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Main Electrical Box:
Caution: Always Lock Out/Tag Out the Battery Disconnect Switch before working in
Main Electrical Box. (See page 23)

Every 6 months, open the Main Electrical Box and make sure all electrical connections and
items are tight and secure, including the overload breakers and motor starters


All the electric motor overload breakers and starters are located inside Main Electrical Box.
The wiring code and colors are the same. L1 or T1 is black, L2 or T2 is red, L3 or T3 is blue
and ground is green. There is no neutral on 480VAC 3phase.
Daily Maintenance
 If the centrifugal pumps has a grease fitting in the packing glands, you will need to grease
them every 6 hours. If the centrifugal pumps have a plug instead of a grease fitting, then
you do not need to grease the packing gland, since they are mechanical seal.
 Clean area around packing glands.
 Grease Lift pump every 6 hrs. Grease Lift pump/Pit Pump when removed from the return
pit. Clean area around the basket.
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Weekly Maintenance:

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First sign of generator RPM fluctuation change all fuel filters.
Inspect the bolts that secure the shaker’s air bags. Tighten if necessary.
Inspect Lift Pump/Pit Pump power cord. Fix or replace as needed.
Inspect shaker screens for tears and holes. Replace as needed.
Tighten or replace mechanical seal in centrifugal pumps as needed. Do not over tighten!
Over tightening will cause premature wear.
Inspect and tighten shaker motor bolts to 380 ft/lbs.
Inspect impeller shaft, bearings and coupler on Lift pump/Pit Pump, replace as necessary.
Using information from testing fluid:

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


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
Test PH of water. It is best to keep between 8 and 9. Add soda ash if above 9. Check daily or
when you change water source.
Mix bentonite in water to get desired viscosity and chart it. As soil conditions change, you
will know how to respond.
You may have to mix a second tank of drilling fluid to fill tank and return pit.
Before you start cleaning the returns, get a weight of new and clean drilling fluid. Chart it.
For best results your return weight should not go up higher than 30% than the original
clean drilling fluid weight. Test mud weight at the return pit and compare to original
weight of new and clean fluid. Drilling speed and flow rates will control % of solids in the
return pit. More than 30% of the cuttings in return pit will close up your hole.
Test cleaned drilling fluid daily. Compare with the original clean drilling fluid. If it is 10.5lbs
or heavier, you have too much silt and need to do some deep cleaning or replace some or all
the fluid in the tank.
Deep cleaning is running full drilling fluid circulation without drilling for half an hour or
until the mud weight gets close to the original weight.
Test for sand content every hour, this only takes a few minutes, and can save a mud motor
or the mud pump on the drill.
Keep track of amount of water that is added during a crossing and where. This will tell you
a lot about formations and if an additive is needed. If you are gaining water, you need to be
aware of where and when as well. Free water will thin your bentonite’s viscosity and may
cause other problems like too high PH.
Always chart every reading.
If testing is all new to you, your bentonite supplier will be happy to put on a school for you.
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Winterizing:


Lift Pump/Pit Pump- Remove the Lift Pump/Pit Pump from the pit and disconnect the 3”
hose. Lay the pump on its side or upside down if possible, to drain as much fluid from the
bowl as possible. Then stand it up and pour antifreeze into the bowl.
Drilling fluid and fresh water supply lines- Disconnect the hoses going into the 2” and 3”
valves. Once disconnected, fully open both valves to drain the leftover fluid in the pipe.
Leave them open afterwards.
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
Cone Pump- Close the pump’s suction valve. Drain the pump by opening the drain valve at
the bottom of the impeller housing. Close the drain valve when it finishes draining.

Mix and Rig Pump-The Mix & Rig pump supply drilling fluid to the mud guns, mud hopper
and the mud pump on the drill. It contains a valve for each function. To winterize the pump
you have to close the suction valve, both floor jets valves and the To Rig valve.
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Disconnect the garden and To Rig hoses. Drain the pump by opening the drain valve at the
bottom of the impeller housing. Once drained, leave the garden hose, floor jets and the To
Rig valves open. Leave the Suction valve and the drain valve closed.

Hoses- Make sure all hoses (Lift Pump/Pit Pump, garden hose and To Rig hose) are fully
drained of fluids. Failure to do so may cause pump failure or screen damage due to ice
buildup within the hoses.
End of crossing:


Clean tanks, deflate air bags and store Lift Pump/Pit Pump and hoses.
Clean screens and make note of replacements that are needed.
Never travel with air in the air bags.
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