Root Cuttings
Root cuttings are best for perennials with thick, fleshy
roots and should be taken when the plant is dormant.
Lift the plant and wash soil from the roots. Select
roots of pencil thickness and cut off with a knife
beneath the crown. Trim off any trailing, fibrous
roots. Cut into 3- to 5-inch sections with a straight
cut nearest the crown at the top of the root and an
angled cut at the bottom. New shoots appear from
the top of the cutting. Insert vertically (thin ones
horizontally) with the flat end up into pots of damp
cutting soil (equal parts peat moss and sand). Put
the flat tip end flush with the surface, firm, water,
and dress with compost. When cuttings develop
young shoots, put them in individual pots filled
with soil-based potting mix. Grow until they are
large enough to plant out.
One in a series of informational brochures produced by the
Penn State Extension Master Gardeners Chester County,
sponsored by Penn State University’s Cooperative Extension.
Penn State Extension Master Gardeners are volunteers who
educate the public on best practices in consumer horticulture
and environmental stewardship. They receive horticultural
training from Penn State University’s College of Agricultural
Sciences Cooperative Extension.
For answers on any home gardening issue, call the Master Gardener
Hotline at 610-696-3500 or email [email protected].
Revised in March 2011 fro m materia l supplied by Penn State
Extension Master Gardeners Berks County.
Penn State Extension Master Gardeners
Government Services Center
601 Westtown Road, Suite 370
West Chester, PA 19380-0990
610-696-3500
[email protected]
Chester.extension.psu.edu
Leaf Cuttings
Cuttings can also be made from leaves. Fleshy
leaves are best for this method. Cut into the main
vein of leaves, for it is at these points that baby
plants develop, and put the stem of the leaf in
moist sand.
Layering
To layer, bend a branch down to the ground and
fasten it so part is beneath the soil. This section
should have a wound (a notch or small slit held
open with a pebble) on its underside to stimulate
root development. Hold the branch down with a
peg or brick. The leafy end of this branch (5 to
10”) should be above ground for it will be the top
of the new plant. Spring is the best time for layering. Keep soil moist. Perennials usually root in
about eight weeks.
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Propagating
by Cutting
Or Layering
Why Propagate Plants by
Cutting or Layering?
Stem Cuttings
These are two easy ways to get additional plants
with little effort and no cost. A cutting is a small
shoot or branch cut from a plant and placed in
water, soil, or planting medium to root and form
a new plant. Layering is bending and pegging
the shoot of a living stem to the soil. The shoot
takes root while still attached to the parent plant.
Plant
When to Propagate
Cuttings from stems can be taken any time in the
growing season. Select 3- to 5-inch lengths of nonflowering shoots. Using a knife or pruner, cut just
above a leaf joint (where the leaf attaches to the
stem). Trim to just below such a joint and remove
the leaves from the lowest third of the stem. Insert
cuttings almost to the lowest leaves into soil. Put
cuttings around the edge of the pot.
Make sure the leaves do not touch. Water and
treat with liquid fungicide. Cover with a plastic
bag supported by stakes or hoops to keep it off
the leaves. Give cuttings bright light but not sun.
Keep soil moist but not wet. The cuttings should
root within three weeks. Admit air gradually to
wean the cuttings from their humid environment, then pot singly before outdoor planting.
How to Propagate
Where to Plant
Astilbe
Early spring before
foliage unfolds
Cuttings or division preferred to seed. After first killing frost, cut plants down to the ground, or leave in
place for spring clean-up. Divide every 3-4 years. Dig up crown, shake free of soil, rinse roots around
crown with water. Cut through center of crown with knife. Should have 3-4 “eyes” (buds) in each
section. Replant sections at same height as original crown. Water and add light mulch.
Dappled shade
or sun if kept
watered.
Candytuft
Spring, early
summer, or fall
Seeds. Layer. Cuttings. Cut close to root with knife, or tear off at terminus. Soak after planting.
Cut back foliage.
Sun/part shade
Chrysanthemum
Spring
Divide roots. Stem cuttings. Take cuttings in early spring or late winter.
Sun/light shade
Coreopsis
Spring/fall
Fall pruning. Cut off at ground, lift with spade or fork. Divide with spade or knife. Stem cuttings.
Full sun
Dianthus
Spring or after
bloom
Layer. Cuttings. Divide with knife or pull apart.
Sun
Geranium
(Scented)
Late August/early
September
Stem cuttings before frost. Take four-inch stem; strip off last few leaves, let age for one day. Put in
sand or vermiculite out of sun but in light. Root four weeks and handle as a seedling.
Sun
Lavender
Early spring/fall
Tip cutting taken from new growth in fall or divide in early spring. Break apart clump.
Use knife/spade to divide.
Full sun
Monarda
Spring/fall
Root division
Sun/part shade
Impatiens
(New Guinea)
Root mid-February
Stem tip cutting 2-3 inches. Stick into soil straight up and down.
Try to give bottom heat (75oF)
Half-day shade
Salvia (Sage)
Cut to ground in
winter
Annual. Can take tip cuttings in summer. Winter little plants indoors.
Sun
Sedum
Spring or after
bloom
Mid-April separate new growth. Stem cutting. Divide with knife and pull apart. Set high.
Also, can root a piece of stem by sticking it in soil.
Sun/part shade
Thyme
Mid-spring to early
summer/fall
Cut heavily in spring to woody stem. Also cut up to October, but no more than 1/3 maximum.
Divide (they break apart easily). Layering in spring works well.
Full sun/partial
shade
Yarrow
Spring and after
bloom
Stem and tip cuttings. Root division. Divide in half (or more if it has some age on it) with sharp knife.
Divide or replant every third year. Set plant high when replanting.
Full sun/well
drained soil.