Save our Cliff Walk The cliff walk, just south of Wicklow Town is an area of outstanding natural beauty. This old traditional walk is slightly more than three kilometres in length and follows the cliff edge for most of the way. It is best to consider the walk in three different sections, each about one kilometre in length. The First Section: This extends from the Black Castle at Wicklow Town The O’Byrnes and O’Tooles of Wicklow didn’t get on too well with the Normans and the castle was destroyed in 1301. Nearby, at Travela-Hawk Strand, tradition has it that Saint Patrick attempted to land but it is reported that he didn’t get a very warm welcome at the time so he continued on his way up North. Two very old stiles can be seen at the beginning and end of this pathway to facilitate people walking these cliffs. Just off the coast in that area the sea covers the remains of an ancient forest. As it is, the trail suffers from coastal erosion on one side while the golf course has extended its boundaries in many parts right up to the cliff edge; it might be wiser to take the roadway from the Black Castle on towards the car park leading to the Glen Beach. Together with the Wicklow Head Heritage Group we recently explored the possibility of up-grading this first section of the walkway, with the local landowner – Wicklow Golf Club, which could have been to everyone’s benefit, but we were unable to reach an agreement. Mid section: to the Glen Strand, which is just underneath the Dunbur car park on the edge of the town. The Black Castle was built by Maurice Fitzgerald, a Norman, in 1176 and little remains of the structure today. The mid section extends from the Glen Beach as far as Lime Kiln Bay and Bride’s Head We have here the remains of an old lime kiln which gives its name to Lime Kiln Bay. These lime kilns were built around the coastline for convenience in transporting very heavy loads of limestone and coal. Lime was used as a building material and also for agriculture. They started using those limekilns in the mid 1600s. The Glen Strand Lime Kiln The Black Castle One can see the foundations of an old penal church, which would have served the local community during the time of the penal laws. spiritual, temporal and commercial needs of our ancestors were all well catered for. Cave where flints were shaped Foundations of Penal Church About 150 metres west of here, there is a fresh water well – Brides Well, and many of the fishermen liked to take along some of the water from this well in the belief that it would keep them safe while at sea. Section of crowd at Lime Kiln Bay during Heritage Week Closures: Unfortunately, the first few hundred yards of this mid section has been officially closed one year ago because of coastal erosion. St. Brigid’s Well There are caves here where workings have been found dating from the new stone-age period. Apparently a knapper carried on his business there, making flints for arrowheads and axes about 3-5,000 years ago. Another knapper operated on a promontory near the Salt Rock, which is about half way back to the Glen Strand, but this site dates from about 2,000 years earlier. So, there has obviously been human habitation and activity in this area for a very long time. The It was also closed in 2002 because it was considered unsafe. People continued to walk the pathway and to our knowledge no one was ever injured but this time the problem is more serious. Even though it is an official right of way nothing was ever done to address the problem. We at Friends of the Murrough had many surveys and some costings done in the hope of securing grants to upgrade these last two sections. The pathway would need to be re-routed to a higher level in places and signage and interpretive panels put in position. We sought permission in 2014 from the Golf Club to get this work done and they replied that they would have to consult with the Council. Nothing ever materialised. The only solution the Authorities could see for the moment at least was to close it down. This is a particularly beautiful stretch of coastline comparable in ways to Bray Head, which can be seen from here. There is a lot of history attached to this area and it also holds a huge variety of birdlife and flora. One can see colonies of seals in the many little coves; they breed around here in early winter and can often be seen during the breeding season attending to their little pups. Sea Arches Selection of Flora on the Cliffs Heather Seals in mid winter At Lime Kiln Bay Sea Pinks Third section: On the southern end, the last section of this walk extends from Lime Kiln Bay on towards Wicklow Head, the most easterly point in the Republic. Bluebells and Furze Wicklow Head as seen from Brides Head Primroses Wild Orchids An old octagonal lighthouse stands there, 95 feet tall with walls six feet thick at the base; this structure dates from 1781. This building is in a perfect state of repair and is well worth seeing. It is now a holiday home with a series of six rooms, each one stacked on top of the other. There are 109 steps leading up to the kitchen, which is at the top of the building. When it functioned as a lighthouse, it was originally powered by 20 tallow candles. The present lighthouse at the Head, which is currently in use, went automatic in 1994. Octagonal Lighthouse These areas have two designations: it is a Special Protection Area and a Special Area of Conservation. Just off the coast we have very productive seed mussel beds and also coral reefs, which have been built up by coastal worms (Sabellaria Alveolata). The tidal current at Wicklow Head can run at a speed of almost 7 mph - among the fastest along our coasts. A lot of energy potential there! The cliffs at the Head are 60 metres high and are home to Fulmars, Shags, Herring Gulls, Kittiwakes, Guillemots, Razorbills, Peregrines, Ravens and also the Stonechat, the Whitethroat Pipits, Kestrels and Linnets. One can hear the cry of the seabirds echoing and re-echoing all round the cliffs at Wicklow Head – a whole different world out there. Bird Life Problem: We did have a problem with a local landowner regarding the last few yards of pathway but in fairness to the Wicklow Town Council, we now have an unobstructed pathway over their property leading on to the tarmac road, which goes to the lighthouse. This roadway won the ‘Pure Mile’ award in 2012. Reference to Irish Light’s website clearly states that the lighthouses are accessible by road and that two of the lighthouse sites are open to the public. Rights of Way: ‘Friends of the Murrough’ are very anxious to preserve these walkways. These walks have been used by generations of Wicklow people and visitors to our town; they are part of our natural heritage. The Local Authorities, in the Wicklow Development Plan “recognise the entire coastal area of County Wicklow as an area of outstanding natural beauty”. In their Coastal Management Plan they pledge to “conserve the right of way from Wicklow Town boundary along the coastline to Bride’s Head and Lime Kiln Bay”. Unfortunately, this worthy aspiration has not become a reality. This area and the Murrough, including the Broadlough area, are the only natural parklands, away from traffic and adjacent to our town, that Wicklow Town has to offer and if we lose them – they are gone forever. It is somewhat ironic that an Irish person has much more freedom to roam in the UK and continental mainland than that which they enjoy at home. Our organisation, Friends of the Murrough have tried for many years to secure a Special Amenity Order covering the coastline from Wicklow Head up as far as Kilcoole. Bray Head and Howth already enjoy the protection of such an order. However, we have not been successful in generating the same level of enthusiasm among the authorities. We all welcomed the recent initiative “Ireland’s Ancient East” but so far, it does not seem to include this area, which is the most Easterly point of the Irish Republic. Grants are available for projects such as these; if we do not avail of these grants they will pass us by and go on to other areas. This coastal strip, and the Murrough are part of our heritage and we have an obligation to future generations to see that they are preserved. Places such as these are essential towards maintaining a healthy lifestyle; they exercise the body and calm the spirit. Our neighbours in Wales have recently opened up all their coastal areas to the public. The people there enjoy 1000 kilometres of coastal pathway, which is a great boost to their tourism and economic activity. Coincidentally, their pathway also runs adjacent to very many golf courses. Sometimes sections of the lakes on the Murrough are blocked off with illegal fencing. We are continually fighting these issues as well as commissioning a number of surveys of these coastal areas. A number of our members are involved with Coastcare and we make a continual effort to clean up the coastline and river estuary. Anyone seeking further information about our activities and our aims can do so by visiting our website at www.friendsofthemurrough.com where they can sign on in support. We are also on Facebook. We currently have more than two and a half thousand signatures on paper in support of our campaign together with a further thousand signed on electronically on Facebook and our website. View of Wicklow mountains from Brides Head Some more views from the trail Canyon leading to Lime Kiln Bay and Brides Head Old Photo Section of Cliff Walk North Head Strand
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