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CONGRESS REPORT EADV 2010
Nobel Prize revolutionises skin care:
Cells’ water channels specifically stimulated
The American biochemist, Prof. Peter Agre, was awarded the
Nobel Prize in Chemistry in 2003 for a groundbreaking discovery:
He discovered that proteins form channels in the cell membrane
to facilitate the transport of water as well as other molecules. One
of these so-called aquaporins, aquaporin-3 (AQP-3), is specifically
stimulated by a highly effective skin moisturiser from Beiersdorf:
The scientists at Beiersdorf demonstrated that the innovative
active ingredient, gluco-glycerol, is able to increase the formation
of aquaporin channels, thereby improving water distribution
within the epidermis. This property enables the skin’s moisture
levels to be significantly increased*, as Dr. Annika Schrader, a
dermatology researcher at Beiersdorf, Hamburg, explained.
Aquaporins are
microscopic water
channels located
in cell membranes
that control the
water transfer into
and out of the cells.
Up to three billion water molecules per second. To date,
13 aquaporins have been discovered in mammals. In some
tissues they are capable of conducting water molecules at the
astoundingly high rate of up to three billion molecules per second
per channel.
Significant reduction in transepidermal water loss. One type
of aquaporin is the AQP-3 which can also conduct glycerol as well
as water. In order to increase AQP-3 production, researchers at
Beiersdorf use the innovative active ingredient, gluco-glycerol. Dr.
Schrader: “In-vivo measurements showed a significant reduction in
transepidermal water loss after using topical formulations containing
gluco-glycerol.” These positive effects were confirmed in clinical
studies in which a clear improvement was established on patients
with dry, dehydrated skin. In a placebo-controlled study comprising
23 test subjects, great improvements were seen in the most frequently
reported parameters of dry skin, scaling and erythema. In further
clinical studies, patients treated with a gluco-glycerol formulation
showed a significantly greater improvement rate in dryness and
erythema compared with patients treated with a formulation that did
not contain this active ingredient (85.7% vs. 60% and 71.4% vs. 56.3%
respectively). Skin compatibility was rated by more than 85% of the
patients treated as either “very good” or “good”.
Long-term strengthening of the skin’s barrier function.
The overall assessment made by Dr. Schrader was accordingly
positive: “We have found evidence to suggest that targeted
stimulation on aquaporin-3 channels plays a key role in treating
skin phenomena such as dry skin. The active ingredient, glucoglycerol, used in the formulation clearly leads to an increased
supply of moisture to the skin which strengthens its barrier
function in the long term and can also make it more resilient to
environmental influences.” AQUAporin ACTIVE moisturiser from
Beiersdorf has been available in pharmacies since March 2010. 7
Aquaporin – a key molecule
for water transport
Why are aquaporins so important?
“In osmosis, water flows through a finepore membrane which other substances
are unable to flow. This principle has been
known since 1877. The reason for this
phenomenon was discovered well over
100 years later by Peter Agre: He isolated
a previously unknown membrane protein –
the aquaporin – from a red blood cell. This
protein subsequently turned out to be a
key molecule for transporting water within
the cells.”
Dr. Annika Schrader,
dermatology researcher
at Beiersdorf AG
Since then 13 aquaporins have been identified.
What is so special about AQP-3? “AQP-3 is the most
abundant aquaporin in the human epidermis. It belongs to
the aquaglyceroporins which also conduct small organic
molecules such as glycerol and urea in addition to water.
And with AQP-3 it is also true that the more of these water
channels a cell membrane has, the more moisture can be
distributed. In order to boost the production of AQP-3, we
tested numerous bioactive substances until the ideal active
ingredient was found in the shape of gluco-glycerol.”
What connections with nature do you see in your
research work? “Osmosis is the process that enables a
wilted plant to stand proud again. We have tried to achieve
similar results on the human skin by increasing the water
transport in the cells of the epidermis. In this way we can
increase the moisture content of the skin and, in turn,
counter the formation of dry skin.” 7
* Schrader, A., Hiddemann, S., Scherdin, U., Conzelmann, S., Siefken, W., Blatt, T.: AQP-3: a key target to influence human skin moisturisation. Poster, EADV Congress 2010
Find further information and pictures on our website: www.eucerin.com/info-center/newsroom
CONGRESS REPORT EADV 2010
Combination of urea and hyaluronic
acid effectively counteracts wrinkles
Sustained increase in the skin’s moisture levels
Around half of all women aged over 50 suffer from dry skin. In
addition to ageing processes, dry skin is an important factor
in the formation of wrinkles, especially in conjunction with
diseases such as psoriasis and atopic dermatitis. A combination
of the active ingredients, urea and hyaluronic acid, in a topical
formulation counteracts the formation of wrinkles and has been
proven to improve the condition of the skin, explained Dr.
Andrea Schölermann from the Department of Medical Affairs at
Beiersdorf AG at the European Dermatology Congress (EADV) in
Gothenburg. Both substances play a key role in supplying moisture
to the skin and maintaining its moisture-retaining capacity.
Studies confirm the effect on dry and diseased skin. The
application of the cream led to a reduction in wrinkles and
crows’ feet of up to 24% in a six week clinical study comprising 42
women aged between 46 and 61 (average age 53.8 years) suffering
from dry to very dry skin 1. According to a further study there was
an improvement in skin condition in 96.9% of the patients 2. 32
subjects aged between 36 and 73 (average age 50.7 years) who
suffered from psoriasis or atopic dermatitis
as well as from dry skin were included in this
study. Dryness and scaliness improved after
two weeks’ topical application of the cream.
Feelings of tightness in the skin, itching and
redness were also reduced.
Dr. Andrea Schölermann,
Department of Medical
Consumer study: Women reported
Affairs at Beiersdorf AG
reduced wrinkle formation. Beiersdorf
has used this new combination of active
ingredients, Hyal-Urea, in a new product line
for day, night and eye care for very dry skin and wrinkles. Apart
from the known clinical studies, the effectiveness of the active
ingredient combination was also confirmed in a four-week
consumer study on 128 women suffering from dry or very dry
skin: 92% of the subjects reported that their skin was intensively
moisturised with a reduction in the feeling of skin tightness. 80%
reported significantly firmer skin, with 74% reporting a reduction
in the number of wrinkles formed. 7
The AQUAporin ACTIVE-Product Family
The HyalUrea Anti-Wrinkle Face Care
AQUAporin ACTIVE Light:
3
HyalUrea Anti-Wrinkle Day Creme
3
HyalUrea Anti-Wrinkle Eye Creme
3
HyalUrea Anti-Wrinkle Night Creme
3
for normal to combination skin
AQUAporin ACTIVE Rich:
3
for dry and sensitive skin
AQUAporin ACTIVE SPF 15 + UVA:
3
for normal skin types
AQUAporin ACTIVE Eye Cream:
3
for the delicate area around the eyes
List of references: 1 Beiersdorf AG, Data on file (2010), 2 Beiersdorf AG, Data on file (2010)
Beiersdorf AG, Hamburg
Unnastraße 48
D-20245 Hamburg, Germany
Fon +49(0)40-4909-0
www.beiersdorf.com
www.eucerin.com