SHB30215 Certificate III in Makeup
WRB20104
WRBCS201B – PROVIDE MANICURE AND PEDICURE SERVICES
SHBBMUP005 Apply airbrushed makeup
LEARNING MATERIAL
Initial Impact P/L
PO Box 301
Balnarring 3926
2016
ABN ©37
006 210
Initial Impact P/L
920
Student name:..............................................................
Student ID:.................................................
Date:.............................................
Student name:..............................................................
Student ID:.................................................
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Date:.............................................
1
UNIT SCOPE
Element 1. Establish makeup requirements.
1.1 Confirm make-up requirements with client.
1.2 Identify contraindications to makeup service and refer client to appropriate professional, as required.
1.3 Cleanse face or body to remove makeup as required.
1.4 Identify skin type, colour, tone and undertone to select airbrush foundation.
2. Design makeup plan.
2.1 Design makeup plan.
2.2 Confirm makeup plan with client.
2.3 Select makeup products and additional equipment requirements.
3. Apply airbrushed makeup.
3.1 Prepare service area, equipment and self.
3.2 Set compressor and test airbrush flow and pressure prior to makeup application.
3.3 Airbrush foundation with circular movements for complete and even skin coverage.
3.4 Apply highlighting and shading to required facial area and use stencils and makeup shields as needed.
3.5 Adjust distance, pressure, and airbrushing movements throughout makeup application.
3.6 Seek client feedback to evaluate makeup application and adjust as required.
3.7 Apply setting powder or finishing products, allowing sufficient time for makeup to set.
4. Provide post service advice.
4.1 Provide advice on makeup products and techniques to maintain makeup throughout occasion.
4.2 Provide advice for makeup removal and recommend make-up removal products.
5. Clean service area.
5.1 Clean surfaces and airbrush equipment following manufacturer instructions.
5.2 Replenish service area as required.
5.3 Dispose of general waste and any hazardous substances to minimise negative environmental impacts.
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UNIT SCOPE CONTINUED
Foundation skills – 6 to 9
6. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used oral communication to use effective questioning and active listening techniques to consult with
client, confirm requirements and monitor service outcomes.
7. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used reading skills to interpret and follow manufacturer instructions and safety data sheets for use
of cleaning, make-up products and equipment.
8. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used numeracy skills to calculate product quantities for use of airbrush machine, service time and
price.
9. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used problem solving skills to trouble-shoot airbrush equipment to ensure it is operating properly.
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Airbrushing makeup products
When selecting specific makeup products, your choice should be based on the manufacturer’s guidelines. Their
recommendations will assist you to select the appropriate products to meet the requirements of the makeup design
chosen.
Benefit of an airbrush makeup.
The makeup is dispersed as an extremely fine mist through the airbrush gun. Millions of tiny little dots are created on
the skin and when connected and layered together, create somewhat of a net over the entire face. This technique
creates a thin, light layer on the skin that is barely noticeable to the wearer.
Types of airbrushing equipment.
Airbrush makeup equipment has three major parts.
1. A powered compressor is used to create an even and controllable airflow through a medical grade hose.
2. The hose connects to a metal, trigger-actioned gun.
3. An airbrush gun.
Dual action gravity feed
airbrush gun. Also known as
top feed.
Dual action gravity feed
airbrush gun. Also known as
top feed.
Bottom feed airbrush gun.
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Types of airbrush makeup formulas
•
•
•
•
Water based formulas are finely ground pigments dissipated in water.
Polymer-water-based formulas are a mix of water, polymers and pigment. When airbrushed on the skin the
polymer dries leaving a continuous coating on the skin.
Alcohol based formulas are alcohol based formulas and are generally used when creating fake tattoos.
Silicone-based formulas use silicone for longer lasting wear and without fading and are mostly used for theatre
and creative makeup.
Equipment functions
Action refers to trigger functions of the airbrush.
- Single action refers to airbrushes on which the trigger controls only the airflow. The amount of sprayed material
is adjusted by turning a colour adjustment screw. When the trigger is depressed, a pre-set amount of material is
sprayed. Single action is used for applying uniform even coats of colour without any notable shade or tone
variation.
- Dual action refers to airbrushes on which the trigger controls both air and material flow (press down on the
trigger for air, pull back on the trigger for material flow adjustment). This style of airbrush allows the user to
adjust line width while spraying. Dual action is preferred for shading effects and colour gradations, as well as
being more proficient for detail airbrush applications and truer realism effects.
Pressure per square inch.
PSI means pressure per square inch. It is a measurement of the level of air pressure. Generally an airbrush makeup
artist will work with a PSI range between 0-35 PSI. A low PSI is preferable when airbrushing makeup around the face
and eyes while full body application (such as covering blemishes or tanning) is easier and faster with a higher PSI.
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Airbrush equipment functions
Mix refers to the manner in which air and material come together (atomize) while airbrushing.
- External mix indicates that air and paint mix outside the airbrush, producing a coarse round spray pattern. This is
used for larger surface coverage and volume spray applications.
- Internal mix indicates air and paint mix inside the airbrush, producing a precisely atomized “fine dot” spray
pattern. This is used for precision finishing needs, such as colour gradations, shading effects, and fine lines.
Feed refers to the place of entry and manner in which the sprayed material enters the airbrush.
- Bottom feed refers to airbrushes on which material enters through a siphon tube or colour cup attached to the
bottom of the airbrush. This type of airbrush should have at least 18 PSI while spraying to operate properly. This
is best for general and production applications. The bottom feed airbrush facilitates the use of more material
without having to frequently fill the material reservoir. The bottom feed airbrush also allows the artist to work at
a brisker pace, enabling faster spray application when desired.
- Dual action gravity feed refers to airbrushes on which material enters at the top of the airbrush through a topmounted colour reservoir. Gravity draws the material into the airbrush. This type of airbrush can be operated at
spray pressures as low as 8 PSI. This allows the artist to slow down. Gravity pulls material into the airbrush, so
the airbrush can be operated at a lower pressure for improved airbrush control. This makes it easier to do finer
detail work as the finishing process can be done at a more deliberate pace. Gravity feed is usually the best choice
for detail airbrushing.
When setting air pressure for airbrushing it is best to depress the airbrush trigger, allowing air to flow through the
airbrush. This will enable the accurate setting of spray pressure while the airbrush is in use. There are varying
airbrush nozzle sizes for spraying a range of materials. You need to have the right nozzle size with the right spray
medium for optimum airbrush performance.
Stencils are commonly used to assist the application of difficult areas such as eye-liner. Stencils are also available for
body-art and temporary tattoos.
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Tips for applying airbrushed makeup
- Prepare the client’s face by cleansing and moisturising. Cover hairline with head band.
- Always apply concealer (neutraliser) first. If you conceal over the top of the airbrush foundation you will ruin the airbrushed areas.
- Practice with water first to get a feel for the different settings of the compressor and airbrush gun. Always test spray on your hand or a
piece of white paper before applying airbrush makeup to the face to ensure the machine is working correctly and you have the right colour
tones.
- Keep wrist steady when you hold the airbrush gun.
- Don’t use regular foundation in the airbrush. Only use airbrush makeup foundation. When mixing makeup for your gun, the consistency
should be similar to that of milk. Follow manufacturer’s instructions that come with your airbrush makeup system.
- Shake the makeup well before using it. 4-6 drops of makeup foundation is enough. When applying foundation hold the gun 18-20 cms
away from the face. Follow manufacturer’s instructions for the machine you are using.
- When spraying do not stay in one spot or you will have more colour in that area. Always use the same speed and motion. The closer you
go, the more concentrated the colour will be. Use constant motion when applying airbrush foundation to avoid uneven or blotchy areas.
- Avoid over-spray, especially when applying foundation. This is where makeup is thicker and does not dry as fast as the rest of the makeup.
When covering blemishes, use short bursts of spray and release the trigger before pulling away.
- Never leave makeup in your airbrush gun. As soon as you are finished with one shade flush the airbrush with water or cleaner. It is essential
to keep your airbrush gun clean and sanitised so it continues to work properly without clogging. Always ensure your airbrush gun is dry and
free from water or cleanser before you put the makeup in. Any additional liquids will compromise the long lasting quality of airbrush
makeup.
- Carefully handle the tip of the airbrush gun. The nozzle is very fragile and will not work if you break it. The bigger the nozzle, the wider the
coverage. Smaller nozzles are good for fine work such as mascara and brows.
- Ask the client to lightly close their eyes and mouth. Keep the skin as loose as possible to avoid the foundation making wrinkles stand out.
Blend the foundation onto the neck to avoid contrast in colour.
- With a very light pass of colour, at the correct distance, you will see results of even, lightweight foundation coverage. If more coverage is
needed, continue with another light pass of colour.
- When contouring, always do an even number of passes on both sides. When highlighting it is always best to start from the inside and move
outwards, pulling back as you go.
- Apply blush no lower than the bottom of the nose and no further in than the pupil of the eye for a natural look.
- When cleaning your airbrush gun with water, always use distilled water which is free from harmful minerals that may build up in your gun
over time and cause blockage.
FORMATIVE. WATCH VIDEO ON AIRBRUSH MAKEUP APPLICATION.
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The colour wheel
There are three primary colours: RED, YELLOW and BLUE. Primary colours cannot be created by mixing other colours.
Secondary colours are colours produced by mixing two primary colours. The secondary colour is midway between the
two primaries. Mixing red with yellow will produce orange. Mixing blue with yellow will produce green and mixing red
with blue will produce violet.
Tertiary colours are colours produced by mixing a primary colour with one of its secondary colours. Mixing red with
orange produces a red orange. Mixing blue with green produces a blue green. Mixing yellow with orange produces a
yellow orange.
If this colour line is bent it will form the colour wheel.
A tint of a colour is when white is added to that colour.
A shade of a colour is when black is added to that colour.
A tone of a colour is a when black and white is added to that colour.
A hue refers to the pure spectrum colours.
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Colour temperature
The colour wheel shows the progression of warm to cool colours which is used by the make-up artist.
•Cool colours are blue, green and blue-violet.
•Warm colours are red, red-violet, orange and yellow.
•Blue violet is cool violet as it has more blue content than red.
•Yellow green is cool yellow as it has some blue content.
•Red orange is warm red as it has no blue in it.
•Red violet is warm violet as it has more red content than blue.
•Blue green is cool as it has no red in it.
In summary;
•A warm skin undertone looks good in apricots, yellow, green and rust.
•A cool skin undertone looks good in blue, pink, silver and grey.
Factors that may influence the application of make-up.
• Facial shapes and their relationship to elements and principles
of makeup design.
• Effects of natural light and artificial light on cosmetics.
• Colour design principles being colour wheel, primary,
secondary, tertiary, complementary and grey scale colours and
tonal value, hue and shade.
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Preparing the client for makeup application
Drape the client with a protective cape to prevent any makeup from spilling onto the client’s clothes. Adjust the
client’s chair so that your posture is straight, not bent over, when you are applying makeup. It is recommended that a
high stool with supporting back is best for the client.
Scope of practice and organisational procedures may refer to;
•Compliance with legislation relating to health and hygiene must be practiced at all times. Contact your local state
health department for specific requirements.
•Minimisation of waste and correct waste disposal.
•Ensuring client records are kept up to date.
•Following manufacturer’s recommendations for use of specific products and tools.
•Following manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning and maintaining the airbrushing equipment.
•Reporting any incidents to authorised persons including insurance company if required.
•Following hygienic laundry procedures of soiled linen.
•Maintaining personal hygiene and presentation standards.
•Maintaining presentation standards of treatment areas.
•Allocating appropriate time for consultations and makeup applications.
•Addressing any adverse reactions caused by products.
•Referring client to other practitioners and provide client with a diagnosis of contraindications if applicable.
Factors that may influence the application of makeup.
• Face shapes and facial features.
• Effects of natural and artificial lighting.
• The design principles of colour using the colour wheel.
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Contraindications to makeup application
Before you begin any makeup application, you should be aware of any skin problems that may cause concern to you
and the client if you applied makeup.
Non-contagious conditions on the skin.
These conditions do not prevent you from applying makeup, however discuss the condition with the client and only
proceed if they give you permission. If necessary advise client to see a doctor.
•Sunburn.
•Bruises, cuts, scarring and tattoos.
•Dermatitis, Eczema and warts.
•Seborrhoea (excessive oiliness).
Referring condition for treatment.
•Acne Vulgaris (severe acne).
Some clients may have been recommended to you
•Varicose veins.
by specialists or you may need to recommend
•Psoriasis (red patches on the skin with dry silvery scales).
clients to seek professional advice.
•Uneven and abnormal pigmentation on the skin.
•Allergic reactions.
You have a choice of;
•Cosmetic and recent surgery.
•Medical doctor.
•Injectable, intense pulsed light and laser.
•Dermatologist
•Cosmetic surgeon.
Contagious conditions on the skin.
•Occupational therapist.
The conditions below will prevent you from applying makeup.
•Social worker.
•Bacterial, fungal, parasitic and viral infections
•Manufacturer of special products.
•Herpes simplex (cold sores).
•Fungal weeping sores.
•Eye infections.
•Ringworm.
Scabies.
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Identify skin types
Skin types are categories that are used to identify the structure and condition of a person’s facial skin. Each skin type
shares common characteristics that define its category.
Normal skin type have a natural balance of oil and water which means skin is;
•Not too oily or too dry.
•Smooth and supple.
•An even texture.
Combination skin type have too much oil in the ‘T-zone’ area and usually not enough oil on the cheeks.
•An oily forehead, nose and chin area is known as the ‘T-zone’.
•Cheeks can be normal, dehydrated/sensitive or even dry.
•‘T-zone’ may have enlarged pores, blackheads and pimples.
•Redness and a stretched appearance on cheeks indicates sensitivity and dehydration.
Dry and mature skin types lack oil and moisture deep down that can result in;
•Skin feeling tight.
•Parched, stretched texture.
•Flakiness on the cheeks.
•No apparent oiliness or pimples.
•Visible lines and wrinkles.
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Dehydrated skin
Dehydrated and sensitive skin types lack moisture in the skin’s surface that can result in;
•Skin feeling slightly tight.
•A parched texture.
•Fine facial lines.
•Redness on cheeks (couperose).
Oily and blemished skin types have an excess of oil secretion that is generally evident by;
•A greasy, course texture.
•Enlarged pores.
•Blackheads and whiteheads.
•Pimples or acne.
Health and safety in make-up application.
Contagious conditions and infections can be spread through the air, personal contact or blood.
•Wear personal protective clothing such as gloves if required.
•Wash hands after bathroom, or using a nasal tissue.
•Use spatulas whenever possible.
•Decant makeup products and dispose of left-over items according to work place policies and procedures.
•Avoid contact with broken skin, sores or blood.
•Use clean brushes around eyes and mouth to reduce cross infection.
•Maintain and clean equipment after every client. Wash, disinfect and dry equipment used.
•Use disposable supplies if possible.
•Keep clean items separate from used ones.
•Avoid bending over the client for a long period of time. Have a stool at the right height to reduce physical discomfort.
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Consulting with the client
A makeup artist’s job is to enhance the client’s image to the best of their ability. Clients want you to create an image
that will appeal to them. This requires you to consult with the client on what look they are wanting.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Ensure your personal presentation is appropriate.
Be warm and friendly.
Listen to your client.
Use eye contact.
Show a genuine interest in what they are wanting.
Know your products.
Speak well, choosing your words carefully.
Explain what you are doing so the client understands.
Do not be too pushy.
Airbrushing makeup techniques are often used for;
•Weddings, anniversaries, debutantes etc.
•An evening look.
•Body art.
•Photographic sessions.
•Camouflage.
Some cosmetics may contain chemicals.
•Preservatives and anti-caking agents.
•Thickeners and waxes.
•Solvents.
•Synthetic colour additives.
Adverse reactions to products.
Should a client have a reaction to a product you have
applied on their skin, wash the skin immediately and do
not proceed. Should it be necessary, refer the client to a
medical doctor.
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Female face shapes
Pear.
Jawbone protrudes
more than forehead
Oval.
Egg shape
Heart.
Pointy chin with a
heart shape hairline
Diamond.
Pointy forehead
with pointy chin
Round.
Wide as it is long
Square.
Sides of cheekbone down
to jawbone are straight
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Oblong.
Long and thin
Triangle.
Wide forehead
with pointy chin
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Contouring in make-up
A shadow colour, which is darker than the foundation, is applied if you want to recede an area. Most times you need
to apply a light colour either side of the shadow colour to give a natural look to the makeup.
A highlight colour is lighter than the foundation. If you need to emphasise an area, apply a highlight colour.
Bones of the face
Muscles of the face
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Makeup plan template
Draw the image applied.
Image required:................................................................
Date:................................................................................
Foundation:........................................................
Blusher:........................................................................
Lip stick:..........................................................................
Lip pencil:........................................................................
Contouring required:........................................................
Eye makeup products:...................................................
..........................................................................................
..........................................................................................
Additional notes:.............................................................
Aftercare advice provided:...........................................
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Evaluating the makeup service
You and your client agreed on the makeup image prior to commencing the make-up. After the makeup has been
completed you need to consult with your client on the finished look. You need to ensure that the client is happy with
the results and if not you must make the changes until they are satisfied. If they are not pleased ask your client
specific questions to help them describe why the image is not what they were looking for. Was the original design
impossible to create considering the client’s features and personality?
Customer service.
To assist your client, give them a coloured drawing of your makeup application so that they can follow it at home.
Recommend products or beauty treatments to the client as part of customer service.
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Sustainability
Sustainability is the ability to maintain a certain status or process in existing systems. The most frequent use of the term
sustainability, is connected to biological or human systems in the context of ecology. The ability of an ecosystem to
function and maintain productivity for a prolonged period is also sustainability.
Sustainability in general refers to the property of being sustainable. The widely accepted definition of sustainability or
sustainable development was given by World Commission on Environment and Development in 1987. It defined
sustainable development as "forms of progress that meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of
future generations to meet their needs.“
Practically, sustainability refers to three broad themes, economic, social and environmental, that must all be
coordinated and addressed to ensure the long term viability of a community and the planet.
The primary goal of sustainable is using renewable natural resources in a manner that does not eliminate or degrade
them or otherwise diminish their usefulness for future generations.
Sustainable work practices;
•Safe disposal of all waste materials to minimise negative impact on the environment.
•Efficient use of energy, water and other resources used to minimise negative impact on the environment.
•Ensuring the practice of waste minimisation and recycling is conducted to reduce impact on the environment.
•Comparing availability of products, equipment and services and adjusting their use to minimise negative impact on the
environment.
This completes the learning material for this unit.
Authors copyright is claimed in all forms of media. Moral rights are claimed in all forms of media. Intellectual property rights are asserted and maintained in all forms of media.
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