Chapter 15
Scalp Care,
Shampooing,
& Conditioning
Learning Objectives
• Identify the two most basic requirements for scalp
care.
• Demonstrate a scalp massage during a shampoo
service.
• Examine the differences and similarities of
treating scalp and hair that are dry, oily, and/or
affected by dandruff.
• Describe how hair brushing contributes to a
healthy scalp.
(continues)
Learning Objectives (continued)
• Evaluate the uses and benefits of the various
types of shampoo.
• Evaluate the uses and benefits of the various
types of conditioners.
• Demonstrate the appropriate draping for a
basic shampooing and conditioning, and
draping for a chemical service.
• Identify the three-part procedure of a hair care
service and explain why it is useful.
Introduction
The shampoo service:
• Encompasses three different processes: scalp
care and massage, shampooing, and conditioning.
• Can and should be a soothing, pleasurable
experience that sets the mood for the entire visit.
• Is an opportunity to provide the client with quality
relaxation time that is free from the stresses of the
day.
• Is nurturing and, when done well, add great
benefits to the hair for styling.
Safely and Effectively use Massage in Scalp Care
• The two basic requirements for a healthy scalp are
cleanliness and stimulation.
• The massage is a method of manipulating the scalp by
rubbing, tapping, kneading, or stroking it with the
hands.
• Before performing a shampoo service that includes a
scalp massage, complete a client intake or health
screening form.
• During the consultation, discuss any contraindications
for scalp massage with your client.
(continues)
Safely and Effectively use Massage in Scalp Care
(continued)
• Before shampoo: If scalp condition is present.
• Should be given with a continuous, even motion.
• During shampoo: Once conditioner has been
applied for relaxation.
• Relaxation vs. treatment: Depends on products
used.
• Scalp Massage Procedure
Normal Hair and Scalp Treatment
• Purpose – to maintain scalp and hair in a clean
and healthy condition.
• Perform treatment only after full hair and scalp
examination.
Dry Hair and Scalp Treatment
• Used if natural oil is deficient.
• Use treatment products that contain moisturizing
and emollient ingredients.
• Avoid strong soaps, greasy preparations, lotions
with high alcohol content.
• Use a scalp steamer.
Oily Hair and Scalp Treatment
• Caused by overactive sebaceous glands.
• The purpose of treatment is to reduce any
hardened sebum that has been collected in the
pores of the scalp.
Antidandruff Treatment
• Caused by a fungus called malassezia.
• The purpose of treatment is to suppress the
growth of malassezia and loosen scalp scales.
Learn the Benefits of Proper Hair Brushing
Correct brushing:
• Stimulates the blood circulation of the scalp
• Helps remove dust, dirt, and hair-spray buildup
• Gives added shine
Hair Brushing Exceptions
•
•
•
•
Avoid if scalp is irritated.
Prior to chemical service.
Prior to or after haircolor procedures.
Prior to or after bleach lightening or
highlighting services.
Hairbrushes
• Natural bristles – most highly
recommended to clean and add
luster to the hair.
• Nylon bristles – shiny, smooth,
and more suitable for
hairstyling.
• Hair Brushing Procedure
Provide a Proper and Effective Shampoo Service
• The purpose of the shampoo service is to cleanse
the hair and scalp prior to receiving a service
providing a great canvas for styling and ongoing
hair care.
Scalp Analysis
• Dry, dehydrated hair
• Thinning of the hair
• Open wounds or scalp
irritations
• Excessive hair in sink
• Scalp disorders or
disease
• Dry, tight scalp
• Tick or lice infestation
• Oily scalp
• Basic Shampoo and
Conditioning Procedure
• Abnormal flaking on
scalp
Selecting the Proper Shampoo
• As a professional, you must become skilled at
selecting shampoos that support the health of the
hair, whether the hair is natural, color-treated, fine
and limp, or coarse and wiry.
Shampoo Selection Considerations
• Hair type – dry; oily; normal; chemically treated
• Hair condition – overprocessed; chemically
treated; damaged by harsh products, improper
care, or exposure to elements
• Home maintenance
The pH Scale
(continues)
The Chemistry of Water
• Purification
–
–
–
–
–
Sedimentation
Filtration
Chlorine added
Boiling
Distillation
• Soft water
• Hard water
• Water temperature
The Chemistry of Shampoo
Water
• Deionized water
• Surfactant molecule (surface active agent)
– Hydrophilic end
– Lipophilic end
(continues)
The Chemistry of Shampoo (continued)
1
2
Oil
Grease
Dirt
3
4
Types of Shampoos
• pH-balanced
• Balancing
• Conditioning
• Strengthening
• Medicated
• Dry or powder
• Clarifying
• Sulfate-free
(continues)
Types of Shampoos (continued)
•
•
•
•
•
Thinning hair
Neutralizing
Color-enhancing
Keratin protein added
Hairpieces and wigs
Shampooing Clients with Special Needs
• Clients with disabilities or those who are
wheelchair-bound will usually tell you how they
prefer to be shampooed.
• The same goes for clients with other special
needs. Always ask about their preferences and
make their comfort and safety a priority.
Recommend and Use Conditioners
• Deposit protein or moisturizer
• Restore strength and give body
• Protect against breakage
• Types
–
–
–
–
Cleansing
Rinse-out
Treatment or repair
Leave-in
Formulation
• Silicone and moisture-binding humectants
• Protein conditioners
Other Conditioning Agents
• Spray-on thermal protectors
• Scalp conditioners
• Medicated scalp lotions
• Scalp astringent lotions
Deep-Conditioning Treatment
• Also known as mask or conditioning pack.
• Mixtures of concentrated protein in a heavy
cream base of a moisturizer.
• Penetrate the cuticle layer.
• Used when an equal degree of moisturizing and
protein is required.
Use Professional Draping
• Client must be properly draped for each service.
Shampoo (wet) draping
• Two terry towels used, one under cape and one
over
• Replaced with neck strip and cape
(continues)
Use Professional Draping (continued)
Chemical-service draping
• Two terry towels used, one under cape and
one over, which remain during service.
Benefits of the Three-Part Procedure
• Pre-service – preparation
• Service – practical service on client
• Post-service – caring for client after service and
clean-up
Summary and Review
• Cleanliness is the key to attractive hair.
• As a cosmetology professional, you will need to be
able to analyze hair type and hair products to
determine the best shampoo, conditioner, and/or
treatment for your client.
• Always follow the manufacturer’s directions when
using any product, including shampoos.
(continues)
Summary and Review (continued)
• Remember to always make the most effective use of
the opportunity provided when shampooing a client.
It’s an opportunity for you to put clients at ease and
make them feel comfortable about the service they
are about to receive.
Chapter Review Questions
1. What are the two most important requirements
for a healthy scalp?
2. How should scalp and hair that are dry, oily, or
have dandruff be treated?
(continues)
Chapter Review Questions (continued)
3. What are the benefits of scalp massage?
4. Why is hair brushing important for maintaining a
healthy scalp and hair?
5. What shampoo is recommended most to address
dandruff? To address product buildup? On hair that
is damaged?
(continues)
Chapter Review Questions (continued)
6. What is the action of conditioner on hair?
7. List and describe two types of professional
draping? At what point in the service do you
remove or replace the towels and cape used for
each?
(continues)
Chapter Review Questions (continued)
8. Describe the benefits of using the Three-Part
Procedure and list the parts.