Symbol Syntax
The rules of pattern layout and cutting
Straight of Grain
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A line with arrows on both ends means that
this line needs to be parallel with the selvage
edge.
Place on Fold
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This means that when your fabric is folded the
side of the pattern piece with this symbol
should be placed on the edge of the fold. You
do not cut the folded edge.
Cutting Lines and Sizes

Patterns come in different sizes.
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Cut the patterns on the dotted line that is the right
size for you
Notches

These are triangle shapes marks that you cut
into your fabric to show you how to line up
pattern pieces.
Button Placement/Buttonholes

The “X” shows where the button should be
sewn onto and the other mark is where you
should make the button hole
Circles, dots, and squares

Symbols used for placement
Alteration marks

Pattern markings to let you know how to
change a pattern to fit you
Tucks, Darts
Pattern Piece Placement
Cutting Line and Seam Allowance

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The solid line is for cutting
The dotted line is the seam allowance
Selvage Edge

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The Edge that won’t fray
The tightly woven edges on two of the
opposite sides of the fabric
Parallel to the lengthwise grains
Pre-shrinking

Always preshrink your fabric before you cut
out patterns
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This helps your project to be the size you
intended
Avoids any problems shrinking differences
Nap or one way directional fabric
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Nap- Velvet, corduroy
Fabric has to be facing a certain way for all
printed pictures to be facing right side up
Extra fabric must be purchase to make sure
you have enough
Grains

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Lengthwise grain is parallel to the selvage
edge
Crosswise grain is perpendicular (or at a 90
degree angle) to the selvage edge.
So….what is a pattern symbol?

Marks on pattern pieces to help you identify,
lay out, cut, mark and sew each piece.

Pattern symbols can also tell you where to
lengthen, shorten or otherwise alter a pattern
piece.
Recognizing pattern symbols

What is the difference between a straight of
grain arrow and a place on the fold arrow?

Straight of grain needs to parallel to, but not on
the selvage edge

Place on fold means the edge of the pattern piece
needs to be place ON the folded edge.
How do you know when to transfer a
pattern symbol?
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1. If the symbol does not get cut out as part of
the pattern, such as notches
2. If you need the mark for correct placement
of other pieces, such as pockets, sleeves or
collars.
3. If you need to sew something in the middle
of a pattern, such as tucks, darts, pleats, or
button holes
Transfer pattern symbols after you
cut out your pattern but before you
remove your pattern.
Tracing Wheel and Paper

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Best used when you are
transferring larger
symbols with straight
lines, such as darts.
Less effective for
symbols like placement
dots or button
placement markings
Tracing wheel and carbon paper

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1. Use a paper color that you will be able to
see on your fabric
2. Place the colored, waxy side against the
wrong side of your fabric
3. Rematch the pattern and fabric ends
4. Mark all symbols by pressing down firmly
on the wheel and using short strokes
Pin and chalk

Instructions
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STEP 1: Transfer marks using pins and a chalk fabric
pencil or marking pen.
STEP 2: Support fabric with one hand, and insert pins
through all layers of fabric along outline of pattern mark.
STEP 3: Carefully turn pattern piece over and use
marking pencil or pen to mark where the pins are placed
in the fabric
STEP 4: Turn pattern piece over so that tissue side is
facing up.
STEP 5: Remove Pattern. Once again, follow the outline
made by the marking pins to trace the pattern mark onto
your fabric.