Farmstead and Artisan Cheese:
From Concept to Commerce
VERMONT TECHNICAL COLLEGE
INSTITUTE OF APPLIED AGRICULTURE
MARCH 2016
INSTRUCTOR: CHRIS GRAY
VERMONT TECH’S INSTITUTE FOR APPLIED AGRICULTURE &
FOOD SYSTEMS IS AN EQUAL OPPORTUNITY EMPLOYER.
THIS PROGRAM IS FUNDED BY A GRANT FROM THE US
DEPARTMENT OF LABOR.
THIS WORK IS LICENSED UNDER THE CREATIVE COMMONS
ATTRIBUTION 4.0 INTERNATIONAL LICENSE. TO VIEW A
COPY OF THIS LICENSE, VISIT
HTTP://CREATIVECOMMONS.ORG/LICENSES/BY/4.0/.
T HIS COMPLETE DOCUMENT © 2 0 1 6 C HRISTOPHER L . G RAY
Course Agenda
 Farmstead Cheese Course: Vermont Tech
 9:00- 10:30- Do Your Numbers. Discuss how to Develop your
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Business Plan. Chris Gray
10:30-11:00 Break
11:00- 12:00- The Dairy: Animals, Housing and Equipment for
starting a Farmstead Operation. Chris Dutton
12:00-12:45- Lunch
12:45- 2:00- The Dairy Continued: Animals, Housing and
Equipment for starting a Farmstead Operation. Chris Dutton
2:00-3:15- The Processing Plant: Construction, Equipment and
other Considerations. Chris Gray
3:15-3:30- Break
3:30-4:30- Putting all the together: Selling and Marketing your
Cheese. Chris Gray
Section I
MILK SUPPLY
Quality, Quantity, and Yield
MILK QUALITY
 Milk is the whole, fresh, clean, lacteal secretion
obtained by the complete milking of one or more
healthy cows, goats, sheep, or other hoofed
mammals.
 Quality of milk is the single most important factor
affecting product quality. Certain practices, tests,
and standards will help assure milk quality.
Milk Major Components
Component
Percentage
Water
87.8
Fat
3.7
Protein
3.1
Casein
2.5
b-Lactoglobulin
whey
0.3
a-Lactalbumin
whey
0.07
Others
whey
0.22
Lactose
4.7
Minerals
0.7
Milk Quality
 Standard Plate Count (SPC) or Raw Count: General test
of the overall viable bacteria in milk. High counts
indicate of lack of cleanliness in milking process.
<10,000 CFU/ml
 Somatic Cell Count: Measure of leucocytes (white blood
cells), which increase in response to the presence of
pathogenic bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus) or mastitis.
Infection of the udder caused by bacteria or chemical,
thermal or mechanical injury. <100,ooo CFU/ml and not
> 300,000 CFU/ml
 Coliforms: Specific bacterial group that originate in the
intestinal tract of animals. Total Coliform <100 CFU/ml
Milk Quality
 Pathogens: Disease causing microorganisms, in
particular Escherichia coli, Salmonella, Listeria,
Staphylococcus aureus. Must be sent out to lab for
testing. Small amounts increase exponentially.
<10 CFU/ml
Milk Supply
 Planning for milk supply can take years, given the
natural process from which it is derived.
 Estimating milk volume is tricky as it depends on
breed, age, care, feed, weather, and harvesting skill.
 Production by Animal Type (average)
Animal
Type
Pounds
per Day
Lactation
Days
Pounds
per
Lactation
Cow
65
305
19,825
Goat
7
284
1,988
Sheep
6
180
1,100
Types of Milk
Variability in Supply
Seasonal Variation in Cow Milk
Variability in Yield
 Variability by Goat Breed
(DHIA 2003)
Goat
Breed
Production
(lbs/lactation)
Range
(lbs/lactation)
Fat
(%)
Protein
(%)
Alpine
2,266
790-5,470
3.4
2.9
LaMancha
2,100
740-4,320
4.0
3.2
Nubian
1,820
560-4,270
4.9
3.7
Oberhasli
2,146
930-4,450
3.9
2.9
Saanen
2,577
610-5,490
3.3
2.9
Toggenberg
2,115
940-4,380
3.2
2.7
Variability in Yield
 Variability by Cow Breed
(Wisconsin CDR 2011)
Cow
Breed
Production
Fat
(lbs/lactation (%)
)
Protein
(%)
Ayrshire
15,690
3.99
3.34
Brown Swiss
18,800
4.16
3.53
Holstein
24,032
3.40
3.32
Guernsey
16,133
4.87
3.62
Jersey
16,835
5.13
3.80
Shorthorn
16,063
3.60
3.20
Variability in Yield
 Other Factors Affecting Milk Yield
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Lactation Cycle
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A cow in it’s Third Lactation will yield 30% more milk than a cow
it’s First Lactation
Feed
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A Silage fed cow will yield approximately 20% more milk than a
Grass cow fed
Variability in Yield
 Calculation of Product Yield Based on Components
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1.63 X (Fat % + Protein % ) = Yield
1.63 X (4.0 %F + 3.0 %P) = 11.41% Yield
or 10 lb Milk = 1.14 lb Cheese
 Yield by Product Type
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Hard Cheese = 10 %
or 10 lb Milk = 1 lb Cheese
Soft Cheese = 20 – 40%
or 10 lb Milk = 2-4 lb Cheese
Yogurt / Milk = 100%
but figure in up to 5% shrinkage
Section V
DAIRY PRODUCTS
BUSINESS PLANNING
Food Safety
 First and most important thing to consider in developing
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your process and plant.
Keeping your customers safe will make your business
sustainable and improve your product quality.
Regulatory environment is changing, so have your plans
in place. Food Safety Modernization Act (FSMA).
Management commitment is the key to a good plan.
Plans don’t need to be complex if your process is not
complex.
Write things down, keep records of every process, and
ingredient.
Food Safety
 GMP = Good Manufacturing Practice
 SOP = Standard Operating Procedure
 SSOP = Sanitary Standard Operating Procedure
 PP = Prerequisite Programs
 HACCP = Hazard Analysis Critical Control Point
 A management system in which food safety is addressed
through the analysis and control of biological, chemical, and
physical hazards from raw material production, procurement
and handling, to manufacturing, distribution and
consumption of the finished product.
Food Safety
 Seven principles of HAACP program:
 1. Conduct a hazard analysis;
 2. Determine the critical control points;
 3. Establish critical limits;
 4. Establish monitoring procedures;
 5. Establish corrective actions;
 6. Establish verification procedures;
 7. Establish record-keeping and documentation procedures.
Food Safety
 Prerequisite Programs
 a. Safety of the water that comes into contact with milk or milk
products or product-contact surfaces, including steam and ice;
 b. Condition and cleanliness of equipment product-contact
surface;
 c. Prevention of cross-contamination from insanitary objects
and or practices to milk or milk products or product-contact
surfaces, packaging material and other food-contact surfaces,
including utensils, gloves, outer garments, etc., and from raw
product to processed product;
 d. Maintenance of handwashing, hand sanitizing, and toilet
facilities;
Food Safety
 Prerequisite Programs (cont’d)
 e. Protection of milk or milk product, packaging material, and
product-contact surfaces from adulteration with lubricants,
fuel, pesticides, cleaning compounds, sanitizing agents,
condensate and other chemical, physical and biological
contaminants;
 f. Proper labeling, storage, and use of toxic compounds;
 g. Control of employee health conditions, including employee
exposure to high risk situations, that could result in the
microbiological contamination of milk or milk products,
packaging materials, and product-contact surfaces; and
 h. Pest exclusion from the milk plant.
“Pasteurized Milk Ordinance”
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The PMO is a set of minimum standards and requirements that are established by the FDA for regulating the production,
processing and packaging of Grade A milk.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1. DEFINITIONS
SECTION 2. ADULTERATED OR MISBRANDED MILK OR MILK PRODUCTS
SECTION 3. PERMITS
SECTION 4. LABELING
SECTION 5. INSPECTION OF DAIRY FARMS AND MILK PLANTS
SECTION 6. THE EXAMINATION OF MILK AND MILK PRODUCTS
SECTION 7. STANDARDS FOR GRADE "A" MILK AND MILK PRODUCTS
APPENDICES
APPENDIX A. ANIMAL DISEASE CONTROL
APPENDIX B. MILK SAMPLING, HAULING, AND TRANSPORTATION
APPENDIX D. STANDARDS FOR WATER SOURCES
APPENDIX E. EXAMPLES OF 3-OUT-OF-5 COMPLIANCE ENFORCEMENT
APPENDIX F. CLEANING AND SANITIZATION
APPENDIX H. PASTEURIZATION EQUIPMENT AND PROCEDURES
APPENDIX J. STANDARDS FOR THE FABRICATION OF SINGLE-SERVICE CONTAINERS AND CLOSURES FOR
MILK AND MILK PRODUCTS
APPENDIX K. HACCP PROGRAM
APPENDIX M. REPORTS AND RECORDS
APPENDIX N. DRUG RESIDUE TESTING AND FARM SURVEILLANCE
APPENDIX O. VITAMIN FORTIFICATION OF FLUID MILK PRODUCTS
APPENDIX P. PERFORMANCE-BASED DAIRY FARM INSPECTION SYSTEM
APPENDIX Q. OPERATION OF AUTOMATIC MILK INSTALLATIONS
APPENDIX R. DETERMINATION OF TIME/TEMPERATURE CONTROL APPENDIX
S. ASEPTIC PROCESSING AND PACKAGING PROGRAM
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“Pasteurized Milk Ordinance”
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APPENDIX J. STANDARDS FOR THE FABRICATION OF SINGLE-SERVICE CONTAINERS AND
CLOSURES FOR MILK AND MILK PRODUCTS
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FABRICATION PLANT STANDARDS
FLOORS
WALLS AND CEILINGS
DOORS AND WINDOWS
LIGHTING AND VENTILATION
SEPARATE ROOMS
TOILET FACILITIES - SEWAGE DISPOSAL WATER SUPPLY AND WASHING FACILITIES
PLANT CLEANLINESS
LOCKER AND LUNCHROOMS
DISPOSAL OF WASTES
PERSONNEL - PRACTICES
PROTECTION FROM CONTAMINATION
STORAGE OF MATERIALS AND FINISHED PRODUCT
FABRICATING EQUIPMENT
MATERIALS FOR CONSTRUCTION OF CONTAINERS AND CLOSURES
WAXES, ADHESIVES, SEALANTS, COATINGS AND INKS
HANDLING OF CONTAINERS AND EQUIPMENT
WRAPPING AND SHIPPING
IDENTIFICATION AND RECORDS
SURROUNDINGS
Building a Business Model
 Sample model of farmstead hard cheese production
 Every situation is different, no single model can tell you
everything. Dairy products are the result of intentionally
designed complex systems.
 Get help!
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State Agricultural Agencies
University Extensions
Trade Organizations
Books:
American Farmstead Cheese by Paul Kindsted
 Mastering Artisan Cheesemaking by Gianaclis Caldwell
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Equipment
 Stainless steel is expensive but it lasts forever
 Challenges of scale: micro-dairy vs. macro-dairy
 Essential items: vat, pasteurizer, chart recorder, pH
meter, filler/capper, antibiotic tester, refrigeration
 Suppliers:
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Bob White Systems, VT
Micro Dairy Designs, MD
Glengarry Cheese, Canada
C. van’Reit / Schuller, PA
Fromagex, MA
Lehmans, OH
Nelson Jameson, WI
Cole-Parmer, IL
Plant Design
 Build, renovate, prefabricate?
 Consult the PMO and your state inspector
 Visit other plants and build a support network
 Suppliers
 Micro Dairy Designs, MD
 Mystic Cheese Pod, CT
 Glengarry Cheese, Canada
 Sanitary Design Industries, MO
Plant Design
Plant Design
Plant Design
Plant Design
Ingredients
 Cultures play an important role in your process. Consult
with culture experts and experiment before making
commitment to a recipe.
 Milk can be purchased direct from farmers or coops.
Review facilities and milk test records before making any
commitments.
 Suppliers:
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New England Cheesemaking Supply, MA
Cultures for Health, WWW
Artisan Geek, WWW
Dairy Connection, WI
Glengarry Cheese, Canada
Fromagex, MA
Sales and Marketing
 Research your market: quality, price, taste
 Account Types – famers markets, retailers, restaurants,
wholesalers, distributors
 Retailers – know customers and what the market needs
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Meet your monger
Formaggio, MA
 Fairfield/Greenwich, CT
 Murray’s, NY
 Saxelby’s, NY
 DiBruno, PA
 Pastoral, IL
 Co-ops, VT/NH
 Wegmans
 Whole Foods
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Sales and Marketing
Sales and Marketing
Sales and Marketing
Sales and Marketing
 Wholesalers and Distributors – help you focus on
production
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Black River Produce, VT
Provisions International, VT
Seacrest Foods, MA
Food Matters Again, NY
Regional Access, NY
Gourmet Foods International, GA
 Trade Groups – networks are knowledge
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American Cheese Society (ACS)
VT Cheese Council, MA Cheese Guild, WI Cheese Guild, etc.
Dairy Practices Council (DPC)
National Conference on Interstate Milk Shipments (NCIMS)