CIRCULAR
SAVVY
Techniques for Knitting in the Round
by Kathryn Mates
Circular knitting or knitting in the roun d is a technique that enables
stitch worked flat has both knits and purls. Tension often varies be-
us to create seamless circles and tubes of knitting. Uses fo r circu-
tween knit and purl stitches and for that reason, th e ga uge swatch
lar knitting are numerous. Hats, bags, socks and mittens are often
needs tb match the way the actu al project will be worked.
worked in the round. Many swea ters are designed for circular knitting especially multi-colored Fair Isle and Scandinavian garments.
Here is a short-cut technique for working a gauge swatch fo r a cir-
Think about necklines on pullovers and armholes on vests. These
cular project. Using a double point needle, cast on the number of
finishing bands are also commonly worked in the round. And let's
stitches needed to give a width of about 5 inches. How many stitch-
not overlook circular shawls, tablecloths and doilies.
es wou ld be needed? Consult the ya rn band for a recommended
Circular knitting presents severa l benefits. The right side of the
a 4 inch width and add a few extra stitches. Starting on the right
garment faces the knitter so that stitch and color patterns are easy
side, knit the first row th en slide the sti tches to the o th er end of the
needle size and gauge as a start. Calculate the number required for
to see. To work Stockinette stitch, all stitches are knit, no purls are
need le without turning the work. Leave a long, loose float on the
required. No seam s are needed, eliminating bulkiness, especially
back and then knit the next row with the righ t side facing. Contin-
fo r smaller items such as socks or mittens.
ue in this manner until the swatch is about 4 in ches in length and
bind off. Trim the floa ts in the back and measure a 4 inch width in
TOOLS TO USE
the cen ter of the swa tch. Count the number of stitches and divide
Circul ar knitting can be done using four or five double pointed
by 4 to get the stitches per inch. The edge stitches may be a bit loose
needles or a circular need le. Double pointed needles, as the name
because of the stranding, but the center of the swa tch should give
ind ica tes, have points on both ends. T he most common range of
an accurate ga uge for a pattern wo rked e ntirely on the right side.
lengths is 4" to 14". They usually come 4 or 5 needles to a package.
Circular needles also com e in a variety of lengths. Circular needles
CIRCULAR TECHNIQUES
have a hard tip at each end and a flexible coil in between. Lengths
The basic idea of circul ar knitting is that the work is not turned,
are measured from tip to tip. Most common lengths for circular
but is worked continuously in a forwa rd direction. This creates a
needles range from 16" to 32" although some can be as small as
spi ral of stitches. The last stitch of the round is higher than the fi rst
9" and as long as 60". Some manufacturers have kits that enable
stitch of the round. T his spiraling characteristic of working in the
the knitter to change the size and length of the circular needles by
round requires a few special considerations.
attaching the desi red needle tip onto a separate cable.
Casting On
The length of the needle should be less than the circumference of
When using double point needles, cast on to one needle if possible.
the project. The stitches should sl ide eas ily around the needles.
Use a point protector or w bber band to prevent st itches from fall-
Do uble pointed needles work well for small items such as socks or
ing off the end. Then distribute the stitches evenly to the two or
mittens. A circular needle 16" long is good to use for hats. A 29" or
three other needles. Move the stitches by slipping them purlwise
32" needle would be appropriate for an adult sweater. Some pro-
to an em pty needle. The reaso n for doing the cast on this way is to
jects may require both a circular needle and double points. A hat,
maintain an even tension. Using multiple needles can ca use twisted
for example, may begin on a 16" circular, but the knitter may need
or stretched stitches where the needles join. Whether using double
to change to double pointed needles as the top shaping decreases
points or a circular needle, make sure to place a marker to identify
the number of stitches to a poin t where they no longer fit easily.
the first stitch of the round.
GAUGE
Most pattern instructions for circular knitting include the phrase
Determining gauge for a circular project requires a ga uge swatch
"Join round being careful not to twist" as part of the cast on direc-
worked in the round. Working back and forth on a flat piece will
tions. Whether you are using double points or circul ars, make sure
result in an inaccurate gauge measurement. For example, stocki-
the loops of the cast on stitches are all facing upward on the top
nette stitch worked in the round has all knit stitches. Stockinette
of the needle.
58 Cast On • February- April 2009
Since circular knitting is really a spiral, an extra step is needed
Binding Off
when joining a round to avoid an uneven "jog" on the cast on edge
Keeping in mind tha t circular knitting is actually creating a spiral,
at the joining point. Refer to swatch I. Notice the uneven edge be-
it is important to even out the edge after the last bound off sti tch.
tween the last cast on stitch and the first stitch of the ribbing. This
Refer to swatch 1 and notice how the last sti tch on the bound off
"step" or "jog" occurs because the last stitch of the round is pulled
edge is set higher th an the first bound off stitch. The process to
upward by the first stitch of the next round. There arc several ways
even out the edge is a simple one. After binding off the last stitch,
to elim inate this on the cast on edge.
trim the ya rn so that a 6 inch ta il remains. Thread the tail onto a
tapestry needle. Insert the needle into the first bound off sti tch
Cast on an extra stitch. When beginning the first round , work
which will be one stitch to the left. Go under both loops of tha t
the extra stitch together with the first stitch of th e round.
stitch. Pull the yarn through and then insert the tapestry needle
Cast on the required number of stitches. vVhen beginning the
th at the ta il originally came out after the last bind off. Pull the tail
back into the center of the last bound off stitch. This is the spot
first round exch ange the last cast o n stitch and the first cast on
to even out the edge then weave in the tail as usual. Swatches 2 and
stitch. This maneuver is like working a cable or crossed stitch.
3 illustrate this technique.
Slip th e last cast on stitch to an empty needle, work the first
stitch of the round then work the stitch from the extra needle.
Ladders
You may enco unter loose stitches when changing from one double
Cast on an extra st itch. Slip the first cast on stitch to the right
point needle to the next. See swa tch 4 fo r an example. These "lad-
needle next to the last cast on stitch. Pass the last cast on stitch
ders" are ca used by stretching the yarn between the two needles
over the first stitch and move the stitch back to the left needle
at the join ing po int. There are several possible solutions to this
and begin the first round.
problem.
Use the cast on tail to connect the first and last cast on stitches.
When workin g with double poin ts make su re the first few stitch-
Thread the cast on tail onto a tapestry needle. Insert the needle
es worked from the new needle are pulled tightly.
from back to front around the base of the fi rst cast on stitch,
then from fro nt to back around the base of the la st cast on stitch.
Weaving the tail in this manner is a good way to smooth the edge
regardless of which technique above is used to join the round.
swatch 1
swatch 5
continued 011 page 60
swatch 3
swatch 6
swatch 7
swatch 8
www.TKGA.com 59
continued from page 59
the stranded color pattern were worked con tinuo usly in the round.
The yarn tails at the top and bottom indica te the beginn ing of the
round. Notice how both the garter stitch and color pattern are d is-
vVhen th e first st itch is a knit sti tch, bring the new needle under-
torted at the transition fro m o ne ro und to the next. Swatch 7 was
neath the last needle. When the first stitch is a purl stitch, brin g
worked using the technique of slipping the stitch o f each ro und.
the new needle above the last needle. This tends to tigh ten the
The stitch marker indicates the start of the first rou nd. Both the
stitch and requires less yarn between the stitches.
garter stitch and the color pattern come together evenly.
Working with 5 needles instead of 4 is also helpful. The angle
\'V orking cables can successfull y use the sam e technique. Most
between the needles is wider and places less tension o n the yarn
cables are vertical patterns that do not extend past the end of the
at the transition points.
round. The spiral nature of ci rcular knitting does not cause a problem for these types of cables. So me cables, however, a re all-over
Stripes and Color Changes
pa tterns such as a lattice or trellis d esign. This type of design is ver y
The spiral nature of circular knitting creates a challenge when
attractive on a so ck o r hat, bu t to be effective, the d esign must be
working with colors in the round. The "jog" becomes obvious
uninterrup ted and flow smoothly around the circumference of the
when changing colors to create s triped patterns. Refer to swatch 5
item. Swatch 8 shows an example of a lattice design worked with
for an example of the color jogs that occ ur when creating stripes in
the slipped stitch techniq ue at the beginning of each round. The
the round. The last stitch worked with the new color is high er than
stitch marker at the lower edge shows the beginning of the initial
the fi rst stitch of the rou nd . The remed y is to make the stitches at
round. The process is the same as the Fair Isle example:
the begi n ni ng of the ro u nd and the end of the round adjacent to
each oth er.
Join the cast on row by slipping the first stitch purlwise. Slip
stitches gen tly using the tips of the needle to avoid stretching.
Begin with the new colo r and work to the end of the round.
The slipped stitch represents the first stitch of the patter n. Place
a m arker to identify the start of the next round.
Before starting the next round knit in the row below by picking
up the right side of the sti tch in the row below (it will be in the
Wo rk the pattern around to the stitch mar ker. You will have
old color ) and placing it on the le ft needle. Kni t it together with
worked one stitch in th e next pattern repeat at th is poin t. Re-
the next new color stitch.
move the marker, slip the next stitch purlwise, replace the stitch
marker an d continu e working the pattern to the end of the
Move the sti tch marker after the stitch just knit. The stitch kn it
round. Repeat th is step fo r the desired length of the pattern.
in the row below beco mes the last stitch in the rou nd .
Keep in mind that the beginning of a round and the beginning
of a pattern repeat will not always occur at the same po in t.
Weave the ya rn tails carefully to pull the tail of the original color
downward and the new color u pward.
Working a cable across the beginning of a round req uires some
attentio n. The rule to follow is that the stitch to the righ t of the
Textu red and Color Patterns
stitch marker is a slipped stitch and will be worked at the end
Most Fair Isle patterns are traditionally worked in the round. Th e
of that round . Th at stitch m ay have been m oved as pa rt of a
technique used for smoothing out the edge o f a color stripe is use-
cable crossing or just slipped in its original place.
fu l fo r solid colors; textured patterns and color patterns require
an even t ransition at the end of the round in order to maintain
Knitting in the round d oes not need to be intimidating. It opens
an even stitch pattern. Working a sp iral causes pattern distortion
up the world of socks, mittens, bags and many o th er interesting
since t he adjacent stitch is on row below. An article by Cindy
p rojects. W ith so many textured and color patterns available, knit-
Sauerwald in Vogue Knitting, Spring/Summer 2000 issue deals
ters need not be restricted to plain stockinette stitch when work-
with thi s p roblem. Her so lution is to slip the fir st stitch of each
ing in the roun d. These tech n iques present the knitter with many
roun d. The beginning of the next round then shifts one stitch to
choices to produce some uniqu e and elegant results.
the left. This technique lowers the last stitch of the round to allow
the beginning and end of the round to com e together at the right
level.
Refe r to swatches 6 and 7 for an example of textured and color patterns worked in the round. O n swatch 6 the garter stitch ed ges and
60 Cast On • February - April 2009