SHB30115 Certificate III in Beauty Services
SHB30215 Certificate III in Makeup
SHB40115 Certificate IV in Beauty Therapy
WRB20104
SHB50115 Diploma
of Beauty Therapy
WRBCS201B – PROVIDE MANICURE AND PEDICURE SERVICES
SHBBMUP003 Design and apply makeup for photography
LEARNING MATERIAL
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Advise on beauty products and services
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1
UNIT SCOPE
Element 1. Analyse photography context.
1.1 Confirm makeup requirements with client, photographer, or stylist.
1.2 Determine photography context by establishing conditions, setting and lighting.
1.3 Determine photography image end- use and format.
2. Establish makeup requirements.
2.1 Identify contraindications to makeup service and refer to appropriate professional as required.
2.2 Cleanse client’s face and neck to thoroughly remove makeup.
2.3 Identify skin type, colour, tone and undertone to select foundation.
2.4 Identify facial shape, and identify areas requiring corrective makeup.
3. Design makeup plan.
3.1 Design and record makeup plan.
3.2 Confirm makeup plan with client, photographer or stylist as required.
3.3 Select makeup products and equipment.
4. Apply makeup for photography.
4.1 Prepare service area, equipment and self.
4.2 Apply makeup products sequentially according to makeup plan.
4.3 Seek client, photographer or stylist feedback to evaluate makeup application and adjust as required.
4.4 Maintain makeup during shoot.
5. Clean tools and equipment.
5.1 Clean non disposable make-up equipment and tools.
5.2 Restock equipment and products to prepare for next service.
5.3 Dispose of general waste and any hazardous substances to minimise negative environmental impacts.
Design and apply makeup for photography
2
UNIT SCOPE CONTINUED
Foundation skills – 6 to 11
6. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used oral communication to use effective questioning and active listening techniques to
consult with client, confirm requirements and monitor service outcomes.
7. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used reading skills to interpret and follow manufacturer instructions and safety data sheets for
use of cleaning, make-up products and equipment.
8. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used learning skills to identify fashion makeup trends and practice new techniques.
9. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used problem solving skills to identify makeup application issues and modify products and
techniques to ensure client satisfaction.
10. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used planning and organisational skills to organise makeup equipment, product and self to
attend photographic shoots at external locations.
11. Student demonstrated foundation skills when they used self management skills to provide services in different work settings where time and
pressure constraints apply.
Design and apply makeup for photography
3
Makeup for Photography
You have already learnt the techniques of anatomic makeup in the unit DESIGN AND APPLY MAKE-UP. You will be using
these techniques in your makeup for photography.
Applying makeup for photographic sessions will require you to work as a team with the client, the photographer and
maybe a hairdresser. Learning how lighting effects makeup as well as the background area behind the model is an
important aspect in photographic makeup. You have already learnt the principals and techniques of anatomic makeup.
Design and apply makeup for photography adds the components of artificial lighting, film stock, background and
clothing to make the photograph picture perfect. Photographic makeup involves makeup for men, women and children.
Makeup products used in photographic makeup.
The professional photographic makeup artist usually uses the same thick foundation bases that are used in camouflage
makeup. Sometimes normal everyday foundations can be used but it will depend on the condition of the client’s skin. If
the skin has a good even colouring, without blemishes, then you may be able to use normal everyday makeup
foundations.
Foundation brands commonly used.
Ben Nye – RCMA – Supracolor – Visora – Dermacolor - Aquacolor - TMF Cosmetics. There are new brands coming into
the market all the time. Conduct a Google search for Makeup Artist suppliers. It may not be necessary to purchase
special eyeshadows, blushers, liners or lipsticks from these suppliers for photographic makeup as most commercial
products will be adequate.
Legal requirements.
As a makeup artist, you need to be legally aware of the rules and regulations of insurance and duty of care. This means
you may require professional indemnity insurance. Duty of care always exists between a beauty practitioner and a client
when an agreement is made for an appointment for a service. It also applies to the service provided to the client.
Design and apply makeup for photography
4
Kit requirements for photographic makeup
•Concealers – neutral, skin tone is the normal colour used however coloured concealers come in red, yellow and green
and are mostly used for photographic, stage or film makeup.
•Foundations – various shades and textures.
•Makeup sponges and extensive makeup brush kit.
•Translucent powder and powder puffs.
When selecting specific makeup tools, your
•Brow and eye liners, mascaras various shades.
choice should be based on the manufacturer’s
•Tweezers, eyelash curlers, false lashes.
guidelines.
•Eyeshadows, wide variety of mainly matt shades.
•Blushers and highlights.
•Beard covers, hair tints.
•Lip liners, lipsticks, gloss.
Some cosmetics can contain;
•Hair styling tools and products.
•Preservatives and anti-caking agents.
•Magnifying mirror.
•Thickeners and waxes.
•Spatulas, towels, tissues.
•Solvents.
•Pencil sharpeners.
•Synthetic colour additives.
•Table and high stool.
•Facial cleansing items, water and water container.
Adverse reactions to products.
•Insect repellent, hat, sunscreen.
Should a client have a reaction to a product
•Face wipes, your personal hygiene items.
you have applied on their skin,
•Basic first aid.
wash the skin immediately and do not
•Umbrella.
proceed. Should it be necessary refer
•Appropriate clothing.
the client to a medical doctor.
Design and apply makeup for photography
5
Colour temperature
The colour wheel shows the progression of warm to cool colours which is used by the make-up artist.
•Cool colours are blue, green and violet
•Warm colours are red, orange and yellow.
•Blue violet is warm as it has some red content.
•Yellow green is a cool yellow as it has some blue content.
•Red orange is a warm red as it has no blue in it.
•Red violet is a cool red as it has blue in it.
In summary;
•A warm skin undertone looks good in apricots, yellow, green and rust.
•A cool skin undertone looks good in blue, pink, silver and grey.
Sources of colour.
A make-up artist needs to have a basic knowledge of the nature
of colour and the effects of light on colour.
•Colour cannot exist without light.
•Natural light (daylight) travels in waves from the sun.
•These waves vary in length.
•White light or natural light as seen by the human eye is made up
of a mixture of colour.
•A rainbow, for example separates colours to form six distinct colours.
Design and apply makeup for photography
complimentary
colour scheme
means 2 opposite
colours.
6
The colour wheel
There are three primary colours: RED, YELLOW and BLUE. Primary colours cannot be created by mixing other colours.
Secondary colours are colours produced by mixing two primary colours. The secondary colour is midway between the
two primaries. Mixing red with yellow will produce orange. Mixing blue with yellow will produce green and mixing red
with blue will produce violet.
Tertiary colours are colours produced by mixing a primary colour with one of its secondary colours. Mixing red with
orange produces a red orange. Mixing blue with green produces a blue green. Mixing yellow with orange produces a
yellow orange.
If this colour line is bent it will form the colour wheel.
A tint of a colour is when white is added to that colour.
A shade of a colour is when black is added to that colour.
The three design principals of colour are:- tonal value, hue and shade.
Design and apply makeup for photography
7
Photographic make-up
Photographic makeup may require you to use makeup correcting techniques for facial features that need improving.
This is achieved by using camouflage and contouring techniques. Remember, contouring is using highlight and shadow
to make changes to the facial features. A highlight is at least 2 shades lighter than the foundation while a shadow is
about 3 shades darker than the foundation.
Below is a list of areas that may need contouring and ways to achieve the corrected image. Note: Shade colours for
contouring must be in the brown tones.
Contouring.
•Prominent forehead - after foundation and powder apply brown shade colour near the hairline blending to make it
look natural.
•Receding temples - apply a highlight in the temple area blending to look natural.
•Receding hairline – match eye pencil to hair colour. Apply by carefully drawing individual lines alongside the existing
hair. This will make the hair look thicker.
•Unwanted grey hair - it will depend on how much grey needs covering as to what you will use. If there is grey at the
temples then use a hair colouring stick that is a close match to the hair. If there is a large amount of grey then apply a
light spray of hair colour. These are available in a variety of shades.
•Receding chin - apply highlight across the chin to bring it forward.
•Prominent chin - apply a shade colour across the chin blending in to look natural.
•Double chin - apply a shade colour under the chin and apply highlight on the chin.
•Nose - depends on contouring requirements.
FORMATIVE 1. WATCH VIDEO – PHOTOGRAPHIC FANTASY MAKE-UP.
Design and apply makeup for photography
8
Preparing the client for makeup application
Drape the client with a protective cape to prevent any makeup from spilling onto the client’s clothes. Adjust the
client’s chair so that your posture is straight, not bent over, when you are applying make-up. It is recommended that a
high stool with supporting back is best for the client.
There are 3 ways to identify skin type and condition.
1. Initial observation.
2. Visual analysis.
3. Analysis by touch.
The equipment required for preparing the client for makeup.
•
Select the correct cleanser, toner and moisturiser for the client’s skin type.
•
Eye make-up remover.
•
Hand towel, client cape, head band or clips.
•
Tissues and cotton wool pads.
•
Spatulas and facial sponges.
•
Warm water in bowl for rinsing the face.
•
Always follow any relevant legislation and work place procedures when preparing the client for a makeup service.
Legal requirements.
As a makeup artist, you need to be legally aware of the rules and regulations of insurance and duty of care. This
means you may require professional indemnity insurance. Duty of care always exists between a beauty practitioner
and a client when an agreement is made for an appointment for a service. It also applies to the service provided to
the client.
Design and apply makeup for photography
9
Scope of practice and salon policies and procedures
This means;
•Have clean water and clean equipment for facial cleansing and dispose of any dirty tissues as you use them.
•Use clean protective cape, head band or clips for each client.
•Do not apply makeup on any open or weeping sores.
•Do not apply eye makeup if the client has infection in the eye.
•Always use a clean foundation sponge on a each client.
•Keep makeup brushes clean.
•If using a powder puff to apply powder make sure it is clean.
•Use disposable mascara wands on each client.
•Do not put makeup brushes in your mouth to hold them.
•Do not blow excessive colour off the makeup brush. Instead just tap off excess colour before applying.
•Wash your hands before applying any make-up.
•Make sure your breath is fresh and doesn’t smell of food before applying makeup and always wear clean clothes.
•Always use a lip brush to apply lipstick.
•Wipe lipsticks with a tissue after using on a client.
•Keep your makeup equipment clean and neatly stored.
•Wear deodorant and always have clean hair and clean finger nails.
•Maintain client records cards and follow equipment and products in good condition.
•Ensure waste and hazardous substance disposal and follow work health and safety policies.
•Refer client to other practitioners and provide client with a diagnosis of contraindications if applicable.
•Following manufacturer’s recommendations for use of specific products and tools.
•Compliance with legislation relating to health and hygiene must be practiced at all times. Contact your local state
health department for specific requirements.
Design and apply makeup for photography
10
Contraindications to makeup application
Before you begin any makeup application you should be aware of any skin problems that may cause concern to you
and the client if you applied makeup.
Non-contagious conditions on the skin.
These conditions do not prevent you from applying makeup however discuss the condition with the client and only
proceed if they give you permission. If necessary advise client to see a doctor.
•Sunburn.
•Bruises, cuts, scarring and tattoos.
•Dermatitis and Eczema.
•Seborrhoea (excessive oiliness).
•Acne Vulgaris (severe acne).
Referring condition for treatment.
•Varicose veins.
Some clients may have been recommended to you
•Psoriasis (red patches on the skin with dry silvery scales).
by specialists or you may need to recommend
•Uneven pigmentation on the skin.
clients seek professional advice.
•Allergic reactions.
•Cosmetic and general surgery.
You have a choice of;
Contagious conditions on the skin.
These conditions will prevent you from applying make-up.
•Herpes simplex (cold sores).
•Fungal weeping sores.
•Eye infections.
•Ringworm.
•Scabies.
•Warts.
•Medical doctor.
•Dermatologist
•Cosmetic surgeon.
•Occupational therapist.
•Social worker.
•Manufacturer of special products.
Design and apply makeup for photography
11
Female face shapes with hairstyles
Pear shape
Diamond shape
Short
Short
Medium
Long
Medium
Long
Design and apply makeup for photography
12
Female face shapes with hairstyles
Round shape
Triangle shape
Short
Short
Medium
Medium
Design and apply makeup for photography
Long
Long
13
Female face shapes with hairstyles
Oval shape
Short
Heart shape
Short
Medium
Medium
Design and apply makeup for photography
Long
Long
14
Female face shapes with hairstyles
Square shape
Oblong shape
Short
Short
Medium
Medium
Design and apply makeup for photography
Long
Long
15
Female photographic images
1. Northern Europe - fair
skin tone - grey eyes
and reddish hair.
4. Chinese - fair skin tone
– dark eyes and black hair.
2. South East Asia Filipino
– medium skin tone - dark
eyes and black hair.
5. Sri Lanka – dark skin
tone - dark eyes and dark
hair.
Design and apply makeup for photography
3. Fijian – medium dark
skin tone - brown eyes and
dark hair.
6. Australian aboriginal –
medium dark skin tone –
medium brown eyes and
brown hair.
16
Male face shapes with hairstyles and facial hair
Triangle shape
Round shape
Diamond shape
Oblong shape
Pear shape with hairstyle
beard does not suit this
face shape
Square shape
Oval shape with
moustache
Design and apply makeup for photography
17
Photographic makeup for men
Photographic makeup for men may require you to lessen the look of a dark beard
shadow. For men with a fair complexion and a dark beard line apply a red toned
concealer before applying the foundation.
If the man has a brown complexion apply a yellow toned concealer over the dark
beard line before applying foundation. If concealer is required for other areas
needing camouflage, apply concealer before foundation, matching it to the skin tone.
Makeup procedure for men.
•Apply corrective concealer if necessary.
•Apply foundation.
•Apply translucent face powder.
•If required apply eyebrow pencil to define the eyebrows.
•A fine application of eyeliner and mascara may be
necessary to outline the eyes.
•Sometimes a faint tint of a lipstick, that is a natural pink
shade, is applied to emphasize the lips.
FORMATIVE 2. WATCH VIDEO – MALE PHOTOGRAPHIC
MAK-UP.
Photographic makeup for children.
You only need a very natural looking make-up application for children. If the
skin is in good condition then apply a light coverage of normal everyday
foundation and powder. You may need to apply a fine application of eyeliner
pencil and mascara to outline the eyes. Apply a faint tint of a lipstick that is a
natural pink shade to emphasise the lips.
Design and apply makeup for photography
18
Lighting and its effects on makeup
Lighting, whether that be indoor or outdoor, directly affects how makeup appears in photographs. Light gives the feel to
a photograph.
•Daylight is the clearest and is the best for true colour for makeup. The colour blue dominates in daylight however this
depends on whether it is morning, noon or afternoon. Large areas of open sky and water will also add reflected light to
the photograph.
•Filament bulbs produce a warm, yellow/orange light.
•Fluorescent globes produce a cold, blue/green light.
•Spotlights produce a blue/white light, which makes everything appear pale.
•Halogen bulbs produce a very white light, bleaching out colours.
Different intensities of light can cause makeup to fade, darken or change colour. The use of different filters and
reflectors also alter the light effects.
The direction of the light source also creates different effects on the makeup design. Lighting from above, from ground
level, from the sides and any combination of these as well as back lighting, all create completely different effects by
lighting and shadowing different parts of the face. The distance of the light source from the client also has an impact on
the makeup deign.
Factors that may influence the application of makeup.
• Facial shapes and their relationship to elements and principles of makeup design.
• Effects of natural light and artificial light on cosmetics.
• Colour design principles being colour wheel, primary, secondary, tertiary, complementary and grey scale colours.
• The three design principals of colour are:- tonal value, hue and shade.
Design and apply makeup for photography
19
Light source
Apart from daylight, the photographer will use one or a combination of the following light sources.
•Background light illuminates the background rather than the subject. This separates the person being photographed
from the background. It can also add depth to the photo by creating a glow effect. The background light for a portrait
is placed on the floor and aimed upwards to lighten the background.
•Rim light is used to illuminate the edges of the subject.
•Hair light is used to separate dark hair from a dark background or to brighten a photograph. When filming outdoors
the sun can be used as a hair light.
•Low key lighting uses more side and backlighting for serious, formal or dignified photographic images.
•High key lighting has many white and grey tones and used a great deal in front lighting. The look it creates is light,
bright, youthful and open.
•It is common practice for a soft lens filter to be used to soften the look of a woman’s face and make her appear
younger. This is very rarely used for male portraits. This does not affect how the makeup is applied.
Main light establishes the
scene. Back light lights
back of model. Kicker is a
small light on an angle to
highlight certain areas of
the face.
Red background.
Main light in front.
Kicker is a small light
on opposite angle to
highlight side. Filter
over lens to soften
image.
Design and apply makeup for photography
20
Light source
Red background.
Main light in front. Back
light on background. Kicker
on side with filter on lens.
Unflattering background
for this skin tone.
Backlight added with
filter on lens.
Unflattering background.
Main light in front with
bounce board - a white
board held under the main
light to reflect light onto the
face.
Design and apply makeup for photography
Full lighting.
Blue background
with filter on lens.
21
Photo composition
Type of shot
Commercial headshot in an
outdoor setting
Professional
Lighting Composition
Maximise natural lighting to capture an
outdoorsy feel. Rely on sun to provide
illumination
Subdued lighting. Very basic lighting
pattern. No excessive backlights or hair
lights. A straight on personable shot
Makeup
Minimal makeup and pastel colours
Minimal makeup to give a natural
look
Outdoor shot filmed indoors
Studio lighting to capture sense of sun,
Medium tone base and deep pink
sky and freshness. Photographed against blusher to create an outdoor glow
a light background
Glamour headshot
Dramatic lighting creating an “in the
spotlight feeling”. Soft focus. Hair
illuminated with strong hot backlight
Apply makeup design for a
glamorous look, with a touch of
dramatic contrast
Friendly middle aged woman
Softly diffused key light – 659 watt
scoop. Soft backlight on hair. Reflector
for fill. Grey background
Apply light makeup using colours
complimentary to skin tone
Executive shot
650 watt scoop light in front of client
and slightly to their right. This light is
bounced off a titled reflector in front of
the client. A 150 watt spotlight is aimed
at an unobtrusive background
Apply makeup design for a natural
look
Design and apply makeup for photography
22
Absorption and reflection
In a makeup design, the colour applied is not necessarily how it comes out in the photograph. It depends on how the
colours react with the skin tone and lighting.
The best way to test the makeup, before the portrait photos are taken, is to take some tests photos with an instamatic
or digital camera using the same lighting that will be used in the portrait photo.
When light hits an object it is absorbed or reflected. The most absorbing colour is black making it the most difficult to
photograph. A black background will detract from the subject.
Reflections.
Reflected light will cause glare. A polarizing filter is used to reduce reflections and reduce glare on shining objects.
Using a reflector is the simplest means of brightening dark shadows. In portrait photos, the light from the main light is
bounced off a reflector card (bounce board) onto the face to fill in some of the shadows. The closer the reflector to the
face, the brighter the fill light will be. Coloured reflectors are used to add or subtract colour.
Daylight portrait.
The sun is the main light source and without reflectors the open sky is the fill. Blue sky adds blue colour to the shadow.
By using a gold reflector to warm the shadow, it eliminates the blue and produces a more neutral colour. The blue light
from the skin then picks up the pink tones in the skin and creates a natural look.
Studio portrait.
To create a studio portrait to resemble daylight, a very pale blue reflector is used to cool the shadow colour enough to
look more like an outdoor photo.
Design and apply makeup for photography
23
Light intensity
If there is too much light, the photographer will use a smaller aperture or faster shutter speed. This means less light is
exposed to the camera lens.
The smaller the aperture or less light on the lens the darker the skin tones and the background appears. This results in
a loss of detail in the shadows in the photograph.
Soft indirect light creates a nice quality for beauty photos. With soft light, the colours of the face and skin appear
softer.
With direct hard lighting, the colour saturation intensifies, edges become more defined and the subject stands out
more from the background.
A tungsten halogen unfiltered light will produce a natural tone. In comparison, a 10,000K light has a great deal of blue
in it where as a 2000K light tends towards the red-yellow.
Coloured lighting effects on makeup.
•Pink lighting makes cool colours look slightly grey and intensify the warm ones. Yellow becomes more orange.
•Flesh pink lighting has a flattering effect on most makeup.
•Fire red lighting will ruin nearly any makeup except of the darker flesh tones. Light and medium blusher become a
pale orange and fade into the foundation. Dark reds turn a reddish brown. Yellow becomes orange. Cool shading
colours become grey and black. Deep green turns to a yellowish tone and natural foundation becomes pale orange.
•Amber and orange lighting gives a similar effect to red but less severe. Blusher turns orange or fades away
completely. Brown takes on a darker tone. Blue turns green. Deep green changes to light brown. Blue grey turns to
deep slate. Natural foundation appears pasty.
•Pink amber lighting (known as bastard amber) is one of the most flattering colours to makeup. It picks up warm pinks
and flesh tones and adds life to makeup. It may turn cool shading colours grey.
Design and apply makeup for photography
24
Coloured lighting effects on makeup continued
•Light straw lighting has very little effect on makeup, except to make colours warmer. Cool colours may appear grey.
•Lemon and yellow lighting makes warm colours more yellow, blues more green and violets grey.
•Green lighting makes all flesh tones and blusher grey. Violet also turns grey. Yellow and blue become greener. Green is
greener, red turns brown, brown becomes black while foundations take on a green tinge.
•Light blue-green lighting makes red becomes darker and dark red becomes brown. Makes medium and deep skin
tones look grey. Makes red look grey. Washes out pale flesh tone. Use very little blusher under blue-green light.
•Blue lighting makes most flesh tones grey and causes them to appear more red or purple. Pale blusher turns to dark
violet. Dark blusher turns into black violet and at times can even look like dirty spots on the cheeks. Lipstick turns to
black. Natural foundation turns purple. Blues and greens become brighter. Violets become bluer. Purples become more
violet. The darker the blue, the stronger the effect.
•Violet lighting causes orange, flame and scarlet colours to becomes more red. Blusher may seem more intense. Be
careful not to use too intense a red in either lipstick or blusher.
•Purple lighting has an effect similar to that of violet, except that the reds and oranges are intensified to a much
greater degree. Most blues will tend to look violet.
Direction of light.
Strong direct light results in strong highlight. No matter from which direction the light is coming, it will cause a
highlight upon the part of the face closest to the light and leave a low light on the other side. There can be no shadow
or lowlights without a corresponding highlight.
A fixed light (known as unidirectional light) leaves part of the face in shadow and also creates shadows on surrounding
areas. This shadow follows the shape of the face and is darkest at the outer edge.
Overhead lighting creates unwanted shadows and exaggerates any imperfections of the skin such as pimples, moles or
areas of puffiness.
Design and apply makeup for photography
25
Makeup for colour film
Colour film is very sensitive to the colour tones in foundation, lipsticks, cheek colours and eye shadows. The makeup
needs to be subtle as errors can become obvious.
Skin tones can be divided into light, medium, Asian and deep/dark plus the value of the undertone colour.
•Skin tones that vary from pink to ruddy olive to olive-brown undertone require light makeup shades.
•Skin with yellowish undertone requires medium makeup shades.
•Skin with grey undertones require deep makeup shades.
•Pinkish areas of skin can be corrected with beige tones while sallow skins can be heightened with pink foundations.
Clothing is important. As a general rule – redheads look good dressed in earthy colours – blondes look good in softer
colours – Asian and Mediterranean people look good in stronger colours.
Photographic makeup should be more
exaggerated than every day makeup but
less exaggerated than fashion makeup.
Don’t use shiny eyeshadows for
photographs as they reflect light and
can make the eyes look small.
Light and medium skin tones
Design and apply makeup for photography
Dark and light skin tones
26
Makeup for black and white film
Sometimes a colour photograph is printed in black and white. This means that each colour becomes a shade of grey.
When colour negatives are developed into black and white the contrast increases. This means that the makeup may
need to be more subtle so the contrast is not obvious.
When choosing a foundation base for men for black and white photographs, select a shade that is two to three shades
darker than for women. This will also depend on how dark the background is. You do not want the man’s face to blend
into the background.
The shadow colours need to be three shades darker than the foundation while the light shades need to be two times
lighter than the foundation. Light colours such as ivory, beige, natural, rose and suntan do not work in black and white
photography.
It’s the same photo. Makeup
for a colour photo was
applied and then printed in
black and white.
Can you see how colours
become shades of grey?
Design and apply makeup for photography
27
Summary of lighting impact on makeup
Generally these principles apply.
For studio shots always check the makeup under the light source, and make any adjustment before the portrait photos
are taken.
Colour value is the darkness or lightness of a colour in relation to other colours. Light colours have a high value and
have a maximum effect upon makeup while dark colours have a low value and have a minimum effect.
•Daylight shows everything. It is the best light in which to apply makeup.
•Night light is the most flattering light. For evening make-up make sure you apply more makeup to make an impact
under soft night lights.
•Florescent light makes the makeup looked washed out. It creates unattractive shadows on the face.
•Camera-flash light makes the face look whiter than the neck in photos. Add some makeup on the throat and chest to
overcome this problem.
Side lighting can add mystery to a photo while overhead lighting causes unattractive shadows in the eyes, nose and
mouth areas.
Side lighting adds interest
Design and apply makeup for photography
28
Film stock
Typically 85mm or 135 mm film is used for face and head shots. Using a slower, finer grained film improves the
image.
Colour photography uses media capable of representing colours which are produced chemically during the
photographic processing phase. It is contrasted with black and white photography, which uses media capable only
of showing shades of grey and does not include hand coloured photographs.
A positive image is a normal image. A negative image is a tonal inversion of a positive image, in which light areas
appear dark and vice versa. A negative colour image is additionally colour reversed, with red areas appearing cyan,
greens appearing magenta and blues appearing yellow.
Panchromatic film is a type of black and white photographic film that is sensitive to all wavelengths of visible light.
A panchromatic film therefore produces a realistic image of a scene. A panchromatic conversion glass will help you
translate colours into the grey scale.
In photography, a reversal film is a type of photographic film that produces a positive image on a transparent base.
A slide is a specially mounted individual transparency intended for projection onto a screen using a slide projector.
Tungsten film is designed to give accurate colours under tungsten light. The majority of colour film is balanced for
daylight (direct light from the sun), or for use with electronic flash. It was developed for photographers who use the
tungsten lights, also known as photofloods. A typical photographic set up for black and white head shots uses a
tungsten 400 ISO fine grained black and white film.
Design and apply makeup for photography
29
Print procedures
Photographic printing is the process of producing a final image on paper for viewing, using chemically sensitised paper.
The paper is exposed to a photographic negative, a positive transparency (or slide) or a digital image file projected
using an enlarger or digital exposure unit such as a LightJet printer. Alternatively, the negative or transparency may be
placed on top of the paper and directly exposed, creating a contact print.
Digital Compact Cameras.
Digital cameras are now the latest in photography. Digital compact cameras range from robust COOLPIX P-series
cameras for skilful photographers, to easy-to-use COOLPIX L-series cameras, and to stylish COOLPIX S-series cameras.
Digital photography allows people to take more photographs. Most photos will be viewed on computer monitors,
televisions, digital photo frames, and online photo sharing sites. Some will be printed at home using InkJet printers and
more specialised photo printers. For true photographic prints, image files can be taken to “1 hour” photo finishing
locations which have digital minilabs or uploaded to online photo finishing sites which then mail you your prints. Some
chain stores combine these services allowing you to upload your pictures and specify which local store you want to
pick the prints up from one hour later.
Professional standards when working as a makeup artist.
•Be professional, confident, calm and helpful at all times.
•Arrive on time and always be prepared for the unexpected.
•Present a clean neat appearance.
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Creating the image
There are many images that can be created for photographic makeup.
Sophisticated, sultry look.
Keep the eyelid and brow bone pale.
Line the inside of the eye with black eyeliner pencil and smudge into lashes for a smoky effect.
Line the lips in slightly darker shade than the lipstick and smudge into the lips.
1920’s Flapper look.
Eyebrows are long, arched and very thin.
Apply a red/black lipstick.
Line the eyes in black, both inside and outside the top and bottom lashes.
Extend the eye make-up down to give a definite edge.
1930’s Glamour look.
Keep foundation pale and powdery.
Eyebrows are long, highly arched and very thin.
For smoky, sultry eyes, line the eyes inside and out with black pencil.
Apply dark eyeliner in the eye crease to exaggerate it.
Keep eyelid and eyebrow bone pale.
Lengthen the lips with brownish red lipstick and exaggerate cupid’s bow.
Apply only a faint touch of blush.
Gloria Swanson 1937
Photographed by Clarence Sinclair Bull.
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1940’s Career Woman (classic and simplified).
Apply a light foundation that has a moist dewy look.
Eyebrows are arched and well designed.
Keep eye make-up to a minimum.
Apply a small touch of mascara.
Outline lips with a brownish red lip pencil and colour lips in the same colour.
Apply a hint of apricot blush on the cheeks.
1950’s Vamp look.
Apply foundation that matches the skin tone.
1940’s
Eyebrows are arched.
Line eyes with black liner then blend a smoky brown eye shadow up into the crease.
Apply false eyelashes close to the natural lashes. Cover with eye liner again to blend in.
Apply a line of dark shadow under the bottom lashes to define the eyes.
Apply bright red lip pencil with glossy red lipstick. Create the look of a pout in the center of the mouth by exaggerating
the cupid’s bow.
Gamine look (sophisticated yet innocent).
Use light foundation with translucent powder.
Eyebrows are thick and arched.
Cover entire eyelid with a taupe shadow (light brown shade).
Slightly line inside of eyes with a white pencil to make them look bigger.
Curl the eyelashes with lots of mascara.
Outline lips with a natural beige pink coloured lip liner and apply lipstick the same shade.
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1980’s Punk look (hard and dramatic).
Apply pale foundation.
Draw black eyeliner almost straight across the eye in a heavy, sharp line then fade out at either side of the eye.
Apply heavy brown shading under cheekbones to give them a strong angle.
Apply foundation on the lips instead of lipstick.
Classic evening look.
Apply matching skin toned foundation.
Eye shadows, eyeliners can be dramatic with false eyelashes if desired.
Blush and highlight need intensity to compensate for soft lighting.
Lips need definition and a strong lipstick.
Catwalk.
Makeup for catwalk will depend on the type of event, lighting and location. The photos below were used in catwalk
parades.
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Applying body makeup
Sometimes you will be required to also apply foundation onto parts of the body that will be seen in the photograph. Use
the same coloured foundation that you used on the face.
Apply foundation with a sponge and set the makeup with clear translucent powder.
If the body does not need any foundation then you can apply a very fine layer of body moisturiser or body oil to give the
skin a beautiful glow.
Body makeup - fair skinned model
made-up to appear as though she
has a dark skin tone
No body makeup required
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Professional standards for hygienic makeup application
This means;
•Have clean water and clean equipment for facial cleansing.
•Dispose of any dirty tissues as you use them.
•Use clean protective cape, head band or clips for each client.
•Do not apply makeup on any open or weeping sores.
•Do not apply eye makeup if the client has infection in the eye.
•Always use a clean foundation sponge on a each client.
•Keep makeup brushes clean.
•If using a powder puff to apply powder make sure it is clean.
•Use disposable mascara wands on each client.
•Do not put makeup brushes in your mouth to hold them.
•Do not blow excessive colour off the makeup brush. Instead just tap off excess colour before applying.
•Wash your hands before applying any makeup.
•Make sure your breath is fresh and doesn’t smell of food before applying makeup.
•Always wear clean clothes.
•Always use a lip brush to apply lipstick.
•Wipe lipsticks with a tissue after using on a client.
•Keep your makeup equipment clean and neatly stored.
•Wear deodorant and always have clean hair and clean finger nails.
Equipment hygiene.
•Keep all equipment clean and if necessary sterilise items.
•Lipstick makeup brush should be soaked in Shellite to remove lipstick, other brushes should be wiped over with 70%
alcohol after use.
•Sponges can be washed with an antibacterial soap.
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Preventing spread of disease
Destroying all pathogenic and non-pathogenic
microorganisms from the surface of objects
Sterilisation


Methods
Sanitation
Methods


Heat-moist heat. Boiling objects for 10-30 minutes
at 121 degrees
Steaming-autoclave. Steam objects under high
pressure. This is the best method of sterilisation
Dry heat-baking objects. 60 minutes at 160 degrees
Irradiation-ultra-violet light or gamma radiation
Destroying most micro-organisms and inhibiting their
growth
 Disinfectants – inhibit pathogens, not all microorganisms and not all spores
 Stronger than antiseptics
 Not for use on the body
 Antiseptics – substances which inhibits growth of
microorganisms
 Can be used on the face
Infection transmission.
Infectious diseases can be spread in a variety of ways. This is referred to as transmission routes. Some infections can be
spread directly by skin-to-skin contact or indirectly by contact with contaminated surfaces like clothing. Diseases with
respiratory tract symptoms (runny nose, cough, sore throat) are often spread by droplets containing viruses or bacteria
or by surfaces contaminated with nose and throat discharges. Droplets are generated during coughing, sneezing or
talking. These “large” droplets travel less than three feet before falling to the ground and do not remain suspended in
the air. Before falling to the ground, droplets may be deposited on the mucous membranes of the eye, nose, or mouth
of another person within three feet, resulting in disease transmission.
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SAMPLE OF A MAKEUP PLAN OF AN EXISTING MAGAZINE PHOTOGRAPH
The makeup was designed on this photographic image.
Client’s features: Fair skin, blue eyes, blonde hair
Photographic Image: Natural care free
Face shape: Oblong
Foundation: Light foundation – No colour face powder
Eye makeup colours: Lids -Koala Grey, Parrot pink, Sea Shell –
Black eyeliner – Under: Kakadu Plum, Black mascara
Blusher: Cherry lightly applied, Highlight
Lips: Passion Flower lipstick – gloss in centre
Contouring techniques: Shortened forehead – shortened long
nose using Sandalwood blush
Additional notes: ..............................................................................
Your name:................................................................................
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FEMALE MAKEUP TEMPLATE
Draw the design
Photographic Image: ........................................................................
Face shape: .......................................................................................
Foundation:
Eye makeup colours:........................................................................
.........................................................................................................
Blusher: ...........................................................................................
Lips:...................................................................................................
Contouring techniques:.....................................................................
Additional notes:...............................................................................
Student name:................................................................................
Student signature:...................................... Date:........................
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MALE MAKEUP TEMPLATE
Photographic image:.........................................................................
Draw the design
Time and date of shot:....................................................................
Skin tone considerations:.................................................................
Hair colour:.......................................................................................
Wardrobe:..........................................................................................
Location/lighting:.............................................................................
Specific detail of makeup................................................................
..........................................................................................................
..........................................................................................................
..........................................................................................................
Student name:................................................................................
Student signature:...................................... Date:........................
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Sustainability
Sustainability is the ability to maintain a certain status or process in existing systems. The most frequent use of the term
sustainability, is connected to biological or human systems in the context of ecology. The ability of an ecosystem to
function and maintain productivity for a prolonged period is also sustainability.
Sustainability in general refers to the property of being sustainable. The widely accepted definition of sustainability or
sustainable development was given by World Commission on Environment and Development in 1987. It defined
sustainable development as "forms of progress that meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of
future generations to meet their needs.“
Practically, sustainability refers to three broad themes, economic, social and environmental, that must all be
coordinated and addressed to ensure the long term viability of a community and the planet.
The primary goal of sustainable is using renewable natural resources in a manner that does not eliminate or degrade
them or otherwise diminish their usefulness for future generations.
Sustainable work practices;
•Safe disposal of all waste materials to minimise negative impact on the environment.
•Efficient use of energy, water and other resources used to minimise negative impact on the environment.
•Ensuring the practice of waste minimisation and recycling is conducted to reduce impact on the environment.
•Comparing availability of products, equipment and services and adjusting their use to minimise negative impact on the
environment.
This completes the learning material for this unit.
Authors copyright is claimed in all forms of media. Moral rights are claimed in all forms of media. Intellectual property rights are asserted and maintained in all forms of media.
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