Colombia Cycling Guide 2012
Contents
Overall feeling on Colombia for cycle touring .............................................................................................. 1
Roads in Colombia ........................................................................................................................................ 2
Lodging in Colombia ..................................................................................................................................... 2
Safety in Colombia ........................................................................................................................................ 2
Bike parts availabilities ................................................................................................................................. 2
Useful links .................................................................................................................................................... 2
Choice of routes in Colombia........................................................................................................................ 3
Our itinerary in details .................................................................................................................................. 4
Cartagena .................................................................................................................................................. 5
Cartagena to Bucaramanga ...................................................................................................................... 5
Bucaramanga to San Gil – 110km ............................................................................................................. 6
San Gil to Chiquiniquira via Villa de Leyva – 3 days – 207km – 4700m uphill .......................................... 6
Chiquinquira to Bogota – 2 days – 160km- 1400m uphill......................................................................... 7
Bogota to Manizales – 5 days – 320km – 5500m uphill ........................................................................... 7
Manizales to Cali via the Coffee region – 4 days – 315km – 4000m uphill .............................................. 8
Cali to Popayan – 2 days – 128km – 2200m uphill ................................................................................... 8
Popayan to San Augustin – 3 days – 135km – 76km dirt – 2900m uphill................................................. 9
San Augustin to Ecuador (Lago Agrio, 25km from the border) – 4 days – 360km – 4629m uphill – 70km dirt
Click on icon to download the entire GPS file of our crossing of Colombia with routes, hotels, camping…
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Colombia Cycling Guide 2012
Overall feeling on Colombia for cycle touring
We were said that Colombia was a wonderful country for bike touring and we can confirm it for sure. We have really
enjoyed this country, for sure the best since Cuba. Everything is positive: its people, its food, its roads, its landscapes,
its cities… However it requires quite a lot of climbing to go through this very mountainous country so better to be
prepared physically and mentally for some tough days.
Roads in Colombia
Most roads are paved and there are only a few parts in the south of the country which are not but in process to be.
However due to many landslides, this is quite common to have some dirt parts in the middle of a good paved road.
Always need to be cautious to signs on the roads. Most paved roads have a large shoulder which is perfect for
cycling and in all cases, Colombians are used to pass cyclists as cycling is a national sport and there are many road
cyclists on the roads. To note also a lot of tolls but there are all free for the bike, just need to take the right lane.
Lodging in Colombia
We were expecting to camp a lot due to long distances with few towns but in fact there are hospediaje (family hotel)
in almost all small villages and knowing that you will pay between 10’000 and 15’000COP for a double room this is
really not worth looking for a place to camp! Colombians are very clean and most hotels are extremely clean (at
least compared to Central America!).
Of course, if you prefer to camp, you can knock at finca doors and they will for sure host you in their garden.
In cities, plan on paying slightly more but if you avoid hotels advices by travel guides you can find good places
between 20 and 25´000COP.
Safety in Colombia
Quite an important subject as originally Colombia was avoided by foreign tourism due to safety issue. At the present
day we have been surprised by the level of security and the presence of the police. This is clearly the country where
we felt the safest since our departure and very few people will come to bother you. Even in remote areas, there are
military checkpoints regularly and the danger of guerillas is really not a concern for tourists.
Go to visit it now before it becomes too touristy!
Bike parts availabilities
Colombia being a country of cyclists there are many bike shops everywhere from top-end bikes to daily use bike.
However there are not much equipment for touring so for example if you are equipped of 28” wheels, this is very
tough to find tubes, tires, spokes… However with 26”, no issues. In Bogota, Calle 13 next to the old town, is the place
with tenths of bike shops. For outdoor equipment, north of town there is Tatoo shop which is well equipped.
Useful links
A few good links to help you prepare your trip here:
Good country sheet: http://www.tour.tk/country-information/colombia.htm
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Colombia Cycling Guide 2012
Choice of routes in Colombia
There are quite a lot of itinerary possibilities from North to South in Colombia. Starting in Cartagena, you can either
go directly south to Medellin or go east to Santa Marta then south to Bucaramanga and Bogota. In both cases, you
have at least 500km of flat and hot road before heading to the mountains and the first big climbs.
Advantages of the Medellin route: mainly two advantages, shorter if you want to head as fast as possible South and
enable to visit Medellin which is apparently a very attractive city
Advantages of the Bucaramanga/Bogota road: if you have time, we would highly recommend this route which
enable to see major tourist attractions and cycle in incredible landscapes. You can first go to Santa Marta and then
head south to Bucaramanga. From there, there are a lot of things to see (canyon, most beautiful colonial villages of
Colombia and very nice people).
Then once you reached Medellin, you will continue South towards the Coffee region and then Cali. If you headed to
Bogota, then you have two choices, either join the Coffee Region by going to Manizales or continue south via the
valley of Rio Magdalena to head directly to San Augustin. Once again everything depend of time and also physical
capacity as going from Bogota to Manizales is a real challenge with a climb from 200m to 3700m!
Once in the Coffee region, normal way is to go via Cali then Popayan.
From Popayan, once again two choices are offered:
-
Head south to Pasto via the Panamericana (250km): quickest road but not the most interesting
Cross the central mountain by going to San Augustin (130km) and then head to Mocoa to take the famous
road back to Pasto. In total this is only 100km longer than the Panamerican. For sure there are huge climbs
but there are great landscapes. Also in order to reduce the climbs this is possible from Mocoa to cross the
border in San Miguel in the Amazonia region. We took this option and provide all details at the end of this
guide.
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Our itinerary in details
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Colombia Cycling Guide 2012
Km on
upnaved
roads/tra Denivellatio
Km by bike
cks
n in m
Accomodation
Country
Start point
Finish Point
Mean of
transport
275 5/31/2012
Colombia
Cartagena
Cartagena
Visit
0
276
6/1/2012
Colombia
Cartagena
Bucaramanga
Bike/Bus
32.4
0
277
6/2/2012
Colombia
Bucaramanga
Giron
Bike
7.3
278
6/3/2012
Colombia
Giron
Aratoca
Bike
279
6/4/2012
Colombia
Aratoca
San Gil
280
6/5/2012
Colombia
San Gil
281
6/6/2012
Colombia
282
6/7/2012
283
Day
Date
Weather
Point of interests
Hotel Centenario, great hotel for $60,000 the night
with air con, cable TV, wifi. Extremely clean and
very nice staff.
Night in the Bus
Hotel Villa de Suenio. Ok, room a bit small for
$35000 but very clean and a small kicthen as well
as conveniently located
Hotel Mirachi, very good for the price, 25,000 the
room. However no hot water and no internet but
this is good just at the top of the huge climb
Hotel San Carlos, well located, very clean, 23,000$
the room with two beds
Hospidiaje San Juan, good for 15,000$. Simple but
nice family. Brought us to visit a molino de Panilla
Hotel Aqua dulce, quite good for 30,000$, wifi-fi,
clean, space to put the bike...
Hotel Primavera Colonial. Room with shared
bathroom but hot water for 20,000COP which is
quite good. Space to cook and store the bike
Hotel Torre Real, 30000COP, hot water, wifi, very
clean and a parking for the bike.
Stay at a friend place
Motel
33 degree, sunny
168
Transport
33 degree, sun & storm
0
110
Motel
25 degree, sun & clouds
68.4
0
1956
Motel
25 degree, sun
Bike/Bus
31
0
423
Motel
28 degree, sunny
Vado Real
Bike
81
0
1615
Motel
30 degree, sunny
Vado Real
Moniquiera
Bike
41
30
1127
Motel
28 degree, sunny
Colombia
Moniquiera
Chiquinquira
Bike
85.5
20
1942
Motel
25 degree, sunny windy
6/8/2012
Colombia
Chiquinquira
Zipaquira
Bike
96.5
0
1029
Motel
284 6/9/2012
285 6/10/2012
286 6/11/2012
287 6/12/2012
Colombia
Colombia
Colombia
Colombia
Zipaquira
Bogota
Bogota
Bogota
Bogota
Bogota
Bogota
Bogota
Bike
Visit
Bike/Visit
Visit
64.5
0
29.5
0
0
0
0
0
387
0
175
0
Friend
Friend
Friend
Friend
288 6/13/2012
Colombia
Bogota
La Sierra
Bike
89
15
796
Motel
289 6/14/2012
Colombia
La Sierra
Mariquita
Bike
112
20
604
Motel
290 6/15/2012
Colombia
Mariquita
Fresno
Bike
25
0
1178
Motel
291 6/16/2012
Colombia
Fresno
Las Delgaditas
Bike
36.5
0
1554
Motel
292 6/17/2012
Colombia
Las Delgaditas
Manizales
Bike
57.8
0
1411
Motel
293 6/18/2012
Colombia
Manizales
Boquia
Bike
84.7
0
1726
Camping
294 6/19/2012
Colombia
Boquia
Boquia
Bike
31
0
1016
Camping
295 6/20/2012
Colombia
Boquia
Andalucia
Bike
97
15
608
Motel
296 6/21/2012
Colombia
Andalucia
Cali
Bike
103
0
615
Motel
297 6/22/2012
Colombia
Cali
Cali
Visit
0
0
0
Motel
30 degree, sunny
same as above
298 6/23/2012
Colombia
Cali
Mondome
Bike
73
0
718
Warmshower
28 degree, cloudy
Nuevo Buenissimo recreation center. Hosted by the
owner in his house. Very good restaurant as well.
299 6/24/2012
Colombia
Mondome
Popayan
Bike
55
0
1480
Motel
28 degree, sunny
300 6/25/2012
Colombia
Popayan
Aguatibia
Bike
32
4
1114
Camping
301 6/26/2012
Colombia
Aguatibia
Paletara
Bike
17
17
600
Motel
302 6/27/2012
Colombia
Palatera
San Augustin
Bike
86
55
1171
Motel
303 6/28/2012
Colombia
San Augustin
San Augustin
Visit
0
0
0
Motel
304 6/29/2012
Colombia
San Augustin
San Juan
Bike
91
0
1489
Motel
305 6/30/2012
Colombia
San Juan
Villa Garzon
Bike
82.3
0
1213
Motel
306
7/1/2012
Colombia
Villa Garzon
Yarumo
Bike
94.5
45
831
Motel
307
7/2/2012
Colombia
Yarumo
Lago Agrio (Ecuador)
Bike
91
25
1096
Motel
10 degree, rain shower,
windy
18 degree, rain showers
20 degree, sun & clouds
18 degree, rain showers
20 degree, sun & clouds
Only Hostal in the village, very basic but good to be
in the dry instead of camping for 18000COP
Hospedaje Savoy - Excellent, big common space.
34 degree, sunny
25000COP the night
Hotel next to the gas station, quite good for
30 degree, sunny
16000COP and a nice restaurant just next door
Hotel at the crossing of the road to Herveo. Very
15 degree, raining
basic, not clean but at least we have a roof!
Hotel Nevada y Café, quite good, big room for
15 degree, sun then rain
20000COP. Situated next to the center
Camping Monteroca just before the bridge. Very
25 degree, sun then rain good with hot water, kitchen.. Usually
15000COP/pers but negotiated to 10000COP/pers
20 degree, sunny
Hotel Andalucia next to the park, acceptable for 20
26 degree, sunny
000COP the night
14 degree, rain
28 degree, sun & clouds, Hotel Calima Real, good but expansive, was our gift
windy
of our 15000km! Cost 50 euros/night via booking
Hotel Casa Blanca, ok, for 20 000COP
Thermal spring Aguatibia, excellent and can camp
20 degree, rain showers for 15´000COP. Entrance of the spring
8000COp/pers
Hospediaje in the village, more a simple room for
15 degree, rain, windy
10000COP. Better than camping on the rain
10 to 25 degree, rain then Hostal Posada Japonesa, on top of the hill with
sun
great view. 10000COP/pers. Very good
25 degree, sun & clouds
25 degree sun then heavy Residencia San Juan, very simple but nice family
rain
and hot water!! Only 7000COp the room
26 degree, heavy rain
Hotel San Martin, very good for 15000COP the room
then sun
Hospediaje El Cruco, good fr 12000COP and with a
30 degree, sun & clouds
good restaurant.
30 degree, rain then sun Hotel La Cascasa, good but expensive.
Cartagena
We arrived in Cartagena by sailboat from Panama. See our Panama Cycling Guide for details on how to go from
Panama to Colombia or vice-versa.
We highly recommend Hotel Centenario in Cartagena which is relatively cheap, very clean with all services (air con,
kitchen, TV, wifi…). This is located next to the big park names Centenario in the old town.
Cartagena to Bucaramanga
A bit tired of the heat and starting to have some time constraints, we decide to skip Santa Marta and take the bus
from Cartegena to Bucaramanga. 12h of bus with Brasilia express for 109 000COP. Very smooth journey by night
except that the bus was like a fridge, 17 degree, we had to take our winter clothes on while outside it was more than
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Colombia Cycling Guide 2012
30 degree! Looking at the road, we did not regret to take the bus as out of the 700km, most is flat and quite
monotonous.
Bucaramanga to San Gil – 110km
What a better way to start cycling in Colombia. We first highly recommend a stop by Giron 7km west of
Bucaramanga. This is a very nice colonial city. We stayed in an hostel we would not recommend as for 30´000COP,
we got a tiny room…
Then start the climb to a first pass at 1200m which is 600m higher than San Gil. A lot of Colombian cyclists on this
stretch. From the pass, there is an incredible downhill into a canyon to go down to 500m where we cross the river
forming this enormous canyon. We had not seen such impressive landscape since the US National Parks. From the
bottom of the Canyon starts a memorable climb to 1900m in 25km. This is a real pass with tenths of switchbacks. At
1800m after 20km of climb, there is a good and cheap hotel where we spent the night as we could not manage to do
Giron to San Gil in one day. To note this day, we climbed a total of 2000m uphill which is our new record but finally
the climb being very regular, this was not so tough!
Next day, 30 easy km to San Gil with a few climb and a big descent where we are likely to get stuck behind trucks. In
San Gil, we highly recommend Hotel San Carlos which is quite cheap and very clean. In San Gil, we left the bike and
took the bus to Barricharra, a jewel colonial village. This is probably one of the nicest village we have visited in our
life. From there, you can do a very nice 6km walk to Guane an other very nice village from where you have a bus
back to San Gil. This daily excursion is for sure the best to discover the Colombian colonial village set in an very nice
landscape.
San Gil to Chiquiniquira via Villa de Leyva – 3 days – 207km – 4700m uphill
This route brought us to an other colonial village – Villa de Leyva – which is said to be the nicest one but in fact we
preferred Giron and Barricharra. However the route was really nice going through beautiful countryside with villages
which never sees any tourists. We were stars! From San Gil at 1100,, there is a good uphill to 1800m before going
down to 1400m and being a bit more flat.
We slept the 1st night in Hospediaje San Juan that we highly recommend. The family is very nice and for 15’000Cop
you get a good room. The hostal is situated on the left of the road just after the bridge going out of Vado Real. The
family invited us to visit a traditional panela factory and offered us some panela!
Then, we made the choice to escape the main road to take a side road going through Chitaraque and Togui. This was
very nice but extremely tough with a very bad dirt road with a lot of rocks. Also difficult to find the correct way.
Once in Togui, we got some pavement and reached Moniquira. On this one, we would recommend to keep the main
road to Moniquiera as in fact this is less climbing and much faster. We spent the night in Moniquiera in Hotel Aqua
Dulce which is very good for 30’000COP. From Moniquiera we again take the tough road to Villa de Leyba going
through Santa Sofia. Climb from 1600m to 2400m in 25km. Fortunately the road is now paved most of the way and
only 8km remain dirt. From Santa Sofia, downhill to Villa de Leyva. If you decide to skip Villa de Leyba, you can go
directly from Barbosa to Chiquinquira which would be much easier and you would probably gain a day.
From Villa de Leyba to Chinquinquira, again a big climb from 2100m to 2600m but extremely steep. You reach the
high plateau and it starts to be quite cold. We recommend a very good hostal in Chiquinquira, hotel Primavera
Colonial which is on the main commercial street and has hot water for only 20’000COP.
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Colombia Cycling Guide 2012
Chiquinquira to Bogota – 2 days – 160km- 1400m uphill
Finally some flat as we are on an high plateau! This is quite windy but very nice and it goes fast. To note a lot of
strawberries on sale along the road. Try the strawberry with cream, this is a must! After 60km, you reach Ubate
where there are all services and a nice church. Then start a new climb from 2600m to 3100m and again steep grades
with a lot of traffic. This is the Paso Negro as there is a coil mine on the top… Once this uphill done, quick downill to
arrive in Zipaquira a nice city with a charming old city center. However not a great choice of hotel there. We did not
visit the salt cathedral as the entrance is quite expansive (15’000COP/pers).
The day from Zapaquira to Bogota was all flat and there are bike lanes as of Zapaquira to almost Bogota city center.
However once in Bogota, if you keep the bike lane, you need to go over pedestrian bridges which is not the easiest.
Sometimes it is easier to stay on the main road. Calle 80 and 50 have good bike lane then Carrera 30 has a good one.
Bogota is a nice city but huge so to visit need to take the bus or the bike. A no miss is the Sunday ciclovia which is a
bike event where a lot of roads close and you can do a loop of 100km with no cars.
Bogota to Manizales – 5 days – 320km – 5500m uphill
After some hesitation whether to go directly to San Augustin via Nieva, or go directly to Cali via Ibaque, we decide to
go to Manizales to visit the coffee region. This is the longest and toughest way but after having done it, this is clearly
worth it.
Leaving Bogota by Calle 50 is quite an experience. The road is badly maintained and you will have to cycle among
the trucks and buses. The best is to go to take Calle 80 where you will directly join the main road outside Bogota and
avoid the big mess.
There are two options to join the Rio Magdalena, keep the main road going via Honda or taking a secondary road
going via Cambao and Armero, the city destroyed by the latest eruption of the Nevado del Ruiz. Clearly we
recommend the 2nd option, the road is mostly paved, but the view is nice with no traffic. First and last parts are big
downhills while in the middle you stay on a ridge with incredible view. To take this road, turn on the left when this is
written La Sierra. La Sierra is the only village where you will find a family hospedaje (cop18’000 for two beds, s/b).
There are shops and restaurant. Between La Sierra and Cambao, there are no villages but a few restaurants and
shops. In Cambao, good places to eat fish! From there you cross the Rio Magdalena at 200m and start a gentle
climbing through the valley to reach Armero from where this is again very gentle towards Mariquita. The hospedaje
Savoy on the main street is very convenient and clean, COP25’000 one double with TV, fan and a huge common area,
but no internet. In case you stay there, don't forget to spend sometime with Princesa, the dog! She loves the bad
smell of the shoes and socks, so don´t let them outside of your room!
After 2 quite easy day from Bogota, we now need to do the climb of our journey. Going from 500m elevation to
3700m in less than 80km will be a big challenge. Original objective is to spend 2 days but due to a few technical
issues it will take us 3 days to reach Manizales, 110km further.
This is the main road to Manizales, all is paved, except in a few sections due to landslides. Good thing is that the
climb is relatively gentle with only a few steep sections (>10%) and a couple of downhills in the middle.
The view are gorgeous, very green, lots of plantations and live stocks in the lower part and tropical forest in the
highlands. People are nice and encouraging to cyclists. The climate is quite humid and the temperature drops quickly
when you reach the higher parts. After the pass you have more than 20km downhill, make sure you have good
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Colombia Cycling Guide 2012
breaks as it's quite steep and road condition is worth with more landslides. Unless you don't plan to go to Manizales,
be ready for the hard climbing again just before arriving in Manizales.
In term of accommodations, there are some in Fresno after 25km and 1200m uphill, then there are some 6km
further in the next village, Padua. Afterwards only one option which is at km 60 and 2600m elevation. Very basic
accommodation. There are a few houses where you can ask to camp but not much flat terrain! Restaurants and food
shops for drinks and snacks can be found more frequently starting in Fresno.
In Manizales, you can go in the old town where there are a lot of cheap and good local hotels. We stayed at Nevado
& Café which was good for 20’000COP the room.
Manizales to Cali via the Coffee region – 4 days – 315km – 4000m uphill
Manizales to Salento can be done in one long day. Quite a few up and a big uphill after Pereira. The best is to stay in
the camping Monteroca in Boquia - 4km before climbing again to Salento. Make sure to exit the 4 lane road and go
into
From there, this is a perfect day trip Valle to de Cocora and worth going on the bike, as it goes up gently and the
view on the wax palmas are just amazing.
From Boquia to Armenia, no need to go back the main road and do the clomb. There is a small pleasant unpaved
road on the left just before the big climbing again. It goes almost all the way alongside the river and most
importantly it's flat.
From Armenia to Cali, road is very easy and flat. Once you reach the Valle del Cauca, you get on a 4 lane road. We
recommend in Buga to go and cross the Rio Cauca to take the other road into Cali. This is much better being along
the mountains and the entrance into Cali is very easy, no suburbs to cross.
If you want to go out for salsa, make sure to visit Tin Tin Deo, a very local but excellent place to find good dancers. If
you go to el parque del perro, Carne & Maduro is a good restaurant to have the meat and banana cooked
differently than usual for a decent price (25’000COP for a plate goof for 2).
Cali to Popayan – 2 days – 128km – 2200m uphill
Going out of Cali is more complicated than going in as we have to go through all the suburbs on the large road.
Hopefully this is Sunday morning.
The first 50km are very easy, flat and fast then start a very difficult road until Popayan with many up & down going
from valley to valley. The road is nice and traffic not so heavy.
Make sure to stop in Mondome for the night in the recreation center Nuevo Buenissimo. Alfonso the owner will
most likely allow to camp for free or even to sleep in his house as he did for us. You can have a nice swim in the pool
and a good meal in the restaurant next door.
The next day to Popayan is very tough. There are a lot of services all the way. In Popayan, we recommend hotel Casa
Blanca which is very clean for only 20´000COP the room. This is just at the entrance of the old city.
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From Popayan, either you keep the Panamericana to Pasto or take the detour to cross the sierra and go to San
Augustin. If you are in good share this is highly recommended as the road is very nice but tough and the area around
San Augustin is really gorgeous.
Popayan to San Augustin – 3 days – 135km – 76km dirt – 2900m uphill
The road goes via Coconuco where you should not miss the thermals Aguatibia, 5km after coconuco, 32km from
Popayan. We camped there (15’000COP per tent) just above the hot springs. Since it was Monday, we had the whole
place and the pools for us with super view on the valley. Compared to Santa Rosa in the coffee region, the weather
here is much colder, so you really enjoy the hot spring after one day climbing.
Road until Coconuco is paved and goes up very gently. Few traffic with great view. You can find good and cheap
cheese, yogurt and cream on the way. However they are building a new road right after the thermales until Paletera
and again about 10km before arriving in Isnos. This implies a lot of truck, mud which makes the journey very
difficult. The views are splendid. In Paletera, there is one Hospediaje very basic for 10’000COP. If the weather is nice,
this is probably better to camp.
In between the road work, it's not a rather good road which crossed the PNN de Purace where you can even see
some sculptures done by FARC. When the fog leaves, the view are incredible as well as the vegetation.
From Isnos, the road is paved again, but to reach San Augustin you need to cross the valley and climb again 6km
uphill at 10% grade. To note, between Paletera and Isnos, there are no services or villages at all as well as not really
places to camp. We highly recommend to call the day at Paletera for the one who want to do it on 2 days. For the
other one, enjoy the hot spring in the morning and do a short day from there to Paletera!
In San Augustin, we highly recommend Casa Japoneses which overlooks the village and cost only 10’000COP per
person. Really nice owner who gives you a lot of info without wanting to sell you any tours. To access it take calle 3
and goes up via a dirt road before turning on the right at the sign. Only need to push the bike for 5 min but really
worth it. From there you can walk to Las Chaquitas, no need to take a horse tour. It’s only 3km return and the views
are just gorgeous on the Rio Magdalena.
San Augustin to Ecuador (Lago Agrio, 25km from the border) – 4 days – 360km – 4629m
uphill – 70km dirt
Last stretch in Colombia and not the easiest one!
From San Augustin, after 5km downhill back to the main road, the next 20km is quite flat to Pilatera and afterwards
it's a 30km long but not very steep climb to get back to 2200m from 1200m. Then 35km all the way down to San
Juan which is the first real village seen in over 60km. This is one of the most remote route we have done so far with
very few shops and no lodging options.
Just at the exit of San Juan, a family-run Residencia is the only place you can stay. It's a simple wooden house, but
with hot water shower and kitchen for only 7’000COP the double room. And the family is extremely nice.
From San Juan roads keep going up and down towards Mocoa 65km further. Although the main profile is downhill,
there are still 3-4 relatively long climbs. Only one restaurant at about halfway and a few shops.
We originally had planned to take the road to Pasto but according to the local police and people in Mocoa, the road
to San Miguel border in Amazonia is not dangerous anymore. The most important is the road will be flat, weather
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Colombia Cycling Guide 2012
will be warmer with less rain. We spend the night in Villa Garzon, 15km south of Mocoa where lodging options are
much better. We stay in a great small hotel (San Martin) next to the center.
We now take two days to cross a very different region and get into Ecuador. The view from this part is nice with the
Andes just next to us but we have the sun while the moutains are under the clouds. The 50km road till Santa Ana is
newly paved and rather flat. Then the fun starts with 70km of bad dirt road with big rocks across the rolling hills of
Amazonia going from river to river. Then a newly partly paved road appears and the condition gets better although
a small part right after San Miguel is as bad as before. Once the border is crossed, you will find a good paved and
flatter road. Colombia migration office is situated right before the Puente International, however you have to get
your Ecuadorian entry stamp only in Lago Agrio (25km from the boarder). Remember to bring a passport copy in
color for the Ecuador migration.
On the way to the boarder, lodging options are rare : one Residencia "Los Amigos" in Santa Ana, one Residencia in
Yamuro and a few more close to the boarder in la Hormiga and San Miguel. Food and water can be found in each
village on the way. The people in the region are extremely nice, the army controls the area and we never felt unsafe.
As no tourists go there, you are really heroes in the eyes of people who are so happy that finally some foreigners
come in their beautiful region.
If you already did the Popayan – San Augustin dirt road via the sierra this border crossing is probably a better option
that going back to Pasto. However if you came from Bogota following the river Magdalena valley, this is worth
experiencing the Mocoa – Pasto road.
Copyright Africamericabike – www.africamericabike.com – Xinhan & Emilien Di Gennaro