Cartridges
The major components that make up shotgun
cartridges are; shot, propellant, primer, wadding
and case.
Shot: Spherical pellets which vary in size but which
typically might number about 300 in a standard load
(See table below)
Primer: Ignites the propellant and contains a small
anvil within it and itself is partially contained in a
'battery cup' in centre of cartridge base
Propellant: a smokless compound today (once, it
was black-powder). It generates in combustion
gases which act on the piston like wad and the shot
in front of it.
Wadding: Acts as a piston which pushes the shot
out of cartridge body and down bore of barrel - it
can be made of plastic (the most common today),
fibre, or felt.
Case: the cylindrical - usually with a brass plated
steel base - container for all of the above
components
Imperial or metric conversion table
Payload equivalents for powder and shot
13/16
7/8
15/16
1
1 1/16
1 1/8
1 3/16
1 1/4
1 1/2
1 5/8
1 3/4
23
24
26
28
30
32
34
36
42
46
50
AAA
BB
1
3
4
5
6
7
7 1/2
8
9
Ounces
Grammes
Metric equivalents
5.2mm
4.1
3.6
3.3
3.1
2.8
2.6
2.4
2.3
2.2
2.0
What Cartridges You should
Use
Cartridges for training
I favour lightly loaded cartridges for instruction and
training (I use them for just about everything). My
favourite budget load is the excellent Express High
UK Shotsize
Velocity. The Hull Chevron is another good choice and very soft recoiling.
Basic 24 gram (7/8th ounce) 12 bore loads will do far more than most shots realise. Shot size, might
be 7 1/2, 8, or 9 - frankly it does not make much difference in the context of basic or intermediate
level skeet or sporting or game shooting (stick to 7 1/2 or 8 for trap though). For 20 bores, I would
choose 7/8th or 13/16th loads for beginners. Subsonic 20bores (as made by Hull) make an excellent
training load for young shots.
Cartridges for clayshooting
My advice for novice to average clay shots is not to waste money on expensive cartridges. All the
major manufacturers offer excellent 24 and 28 gram economy loads that will do the job very
adequately. Look for clean burning powder, well formed cases with strongly attached rims, acceptable
recoil, and, of course, good patterns from your gun/choke combination (i.e. even patterns without
excessive gaps, excessive clustering, balling, or abnormal central concentration.) My favourite budget
clay loads include Express’s High Velocity (a super load for 2 ½ chambered guns and anyone looking
for quick but low recoiling load), the Express Procomp (a good, reasonably priced all-rounder for
70mm guns), the well priced Victory Sporter shell, Hull's Chevron High Velocity(they also do a ‘Low
Recoil’ Chevron useful for beginners), Eley's First, Gamebore’s popular Clear Winner and Winchester
Trap 100s.
Better clay shots may benefit from premium quality cartridge (but these will only be of significant
advantage to top competitors, most notably, those involved in the international trap disciplines and
FITASC sporting). Hard shot, with a high antimony content reduces pellet deformation and helps to
produce even patterns, similarly, plated shot, as used in the most expensive cartridges, increases
pellet hardness too, and appears to reduce central concentration. Express Excel Olympian (as used by
Olympic Gold Medallist, Richard Faulds) and Supreme, Gamebore White Gold and White Gold F2, Hull
Pro One (another personal favourite) and Sovereign, and Eley VIPs are all really excellent.
Sporting
For sporting shooting (except for the competitors in the top 10% of AA) I advise standardisation on a
single pellet size - 7 1/2 (2.3mm)or 8 (2.2mm). Attempting to match cartridges to targets, like
changing chokes from stand to stand, only serves to distract. For those who insist on changing
cartridges, 9(2mm) shot may, generally, be selected for close targets and medium range targets
where the belly is presented to the shooter (but avoid it for hard composition targets such as rabbits
or on very windy days because it is prone to drift), for, everything else, and especially edge on targets
at range, use 7 1/2 shot.
Skeet
Skeet shots do not have as many choices to make, nearly all U.K. shots use 9 shot in a 24 or 28
gramme load (Olympic Skeet shots may only use the former). I can see no advantage to using smaller
or larger shot, or larger payloads, even if the rules permit it. Velocity, within reasonable limits, is not a
great concern for skeet shooting, comfort is of paramount importance.
Trap
As for trap shots, some prefer to use 8 shot in the first barrel, but use a larger size 7 1/2 or 7
(2.4mm) in the second barrel, because the bigger pellet retains kinetic energy better at range. Again,
I tend to think this is a distraction. My own preference would be for 7 1/2 shot in both barrels in a fast
24 gram load. Although cartridge quality and velocity are more important considerations at trap than
any other discipline, one must have confidence in the cartridge above all else. Trap shooting is a game
of confidence, lack of it will destroy your timing.
Cartridges for game shooting
For formal driven shooting. I would recommend 1 or
1 1/16 ounce 12 bore loads for pheasant at modest
to medium ranges. Ideal shot size would be 6 or 7,
although some people feel more confident with 5
shot. For really high birds, such as those sometimes
seen in the West Country, I would prefer a slightly
bigger payload: 1 1/8oz. or even 1 1/4oz. My
favourite 20 bore load for pheasant is 1 ounce of 7
shot in a 2 3/4" (70mm) case. Most people find
recoil less of a problem when game shooting
because of the adrenaline factor and may therefore
choose a high performance cartridge without ill
effect (although I tend to use inexpensive cartridges
by choice for clay shooting, I usually advocate
buying a premium cartridge for game). If recoil is a
problem, do not despair, modern light game loads
are very efficient. I would always recommend using
cartridges with a low bar figure in older guns.
Recommended pellet sizes (lead unless stated) for game shooting
Decoying pigeon: 6 or 7.
Snipe: 7 1/2, 8.
Woodcock: 6, 7
Partridge: 6, 7
Duck (foreshore): 4 (long range, bismuth and tungsten), 5 (bismuth and tungsten), 3 or 4 (steel and
tin)
Duck (flighting inland): 5 or 6 (bismuth and tungsten), 4 or 5 (steel and tin)
Rabbits: 5 or 6
Hares: 4 or 5
Non-toxic
It is now mandatory that you use non-toxic
cartridges over wetlands and 300 or so sites of
Special Scientific Interest. There are various
products on offer:- tungsten polymers, tungsten
iron, bismuth, tin and steel are the main contenders.
Tungsten based shot shells such as Tungsten Matrix
from Gamebore and Hevishot from Express perform
exceedingly well (sometimes better than lead) in
modern guns but are very pricey. Bismuth,
marketed by Eley, is a metal much like lead save for
toxicity. It also performs very well and may be
obtained with a felt wad if required. Cost is much
more than lead. Steel and tin (now going out of
fashion) are lighter than lead and reduce the range
at which birds may be shot. Because they are fast
out of the muzzle they also reduce the minimum
range. Their window of opportunity is about 20-35
yards – stay within that zone and you will bring the ducks down effectively. Steel is the cheapest of all
the alternatives and will probably be the main alternative to lead in the future. It is also suitable for
clay shooting, but I find the felt recoil signature sharper than with conventional cartridges –
nevertheless someone has already managed to shoot 600 straight (no error) in a skeet competition.
Detailed Information on the Components of a Shotgun Cartridge
Shot
Modern shot is not made from pure lead, rather the lead is alloyed with antimony (1 - 8%) for
hardness and small quantities of other substances may be added to the mix. Some high performance
cartridges use plated shot. This hardens shot even more and reduces friction between pellets - thus
easing the passage of the shot down the bore and through the chokes. Shot may be lubricated with
graphite to further reduce friction.
Alternatives to traditional lead shot include bismuth and tungsten polymer. Both offer similar ballistic
properties to lead, but with reduced toxicity. Other alternatives to lead include soft iron (commonly
called steel), tin and zinc.
Propellant
Modern smokeless propellants fall into two broad types: single and double base. Both have their
advocates: single base powders tend to be cleaner burning and may cause marginally less barrel
erosion, double base powders are hotter burning and have a slightly greater muzzle flash.
Most modern powders are of the 'progressive' type, which means that they release the majority of
their energy after achieving peak pressure. This means that modern cartridges, especially those with
heavy payloads, can be made with relatively low operating pressures.
Primers
Priming compounds in ammunition were once highly corrosive, being based on mercury. Modern
primers are chemically stable, sensitive to impact (but not too sensitive), non-corrosive, yet provide
more reliable and controllable ignition.
Wadding
The wadding in modern cartridges varies greatly. It is not simply a question of it being made of plastic
or felt. Cartridges may have felt or cellulose fibre wads (the most popular non-plastic type, but not
quite as efficient as felt). Felt or fibre wads may be combined with a simple over powder disc of card
or with a more sophisticated, skirted, obdurator of card or plastic to make them more efficient. Any
over powder disc prevents the powder burning out the main wad, a skirted card disc or plastic
obdurator greatly improves sealing too.
Similarly, there are many different types of plastic cup wad with different styles of skirt, column and
cup. Plastic cup wads have two great advantages, they simplify loading for the manufacturer and
protect the pellets as they pass through the chamber forcing cone and the choke area, reducing the
number of flyers, and shortening shot string length. Plastic wads are normally associated with slightly
tighter patterns for these reasons.
Cases
Although paper cases are still in use, most modern cartridge cases have a body made of plastic. The
case construction is an important aspect of cartridge design and significantly affects the performance
of the cartridge. There are four main types of plastic case, and the most common, and cheapest to
make, is the Parallel Tube. It consists of a polyethylene extruded tube, a plastic or paper base wad
and a metal base.
The more expensive Compression Formed case has tube and base made from a single slug of plastic
with a metal base attached. It is very strong, easy to crimp, and produces slightly higher pressures
than the Parallel Tube type.
The ACTIV case, which appears to be all plastic, actually incorporates a metal reinforcing ring moulded
into the base, and the new Gordon case has a combined metal and plastic base.
Ten Tips To Better Wing & Clay Shooting
by Bob Knopf
National Wing & Clay Shooting School
All shotgun shooters want to shoot better. But for
many shooters, a handful of shooting mistakes
create frustration in the field or on the range.
Instructors at the National Wing & Clay Shooting
School help shooters at all skill levels gain
proficiency by eliminating mistakes and by helping
each shooter trust their instincts.
Consider these 10 shooting tips to develop your
maximum shotgun shooting potential.
Tip #1 - In all shooting, practice safety first. Always wear hearing and eye protection. Keep your
gun unloaded and the action visibly open until you're ready to shoot. Once you are finished
shooting, make sure the gun is once again empty and the action is open. Always keep the gun's
muzzle pointed down range. Never point a gun muzzle backward over your
shoulder.
Tip #2 - Practice swinging and mounting an unloaded gun to your face in
front of a mirror. Make sure you stand erect. Do not lower your face to the
gun or tilt your head. Lift the gun straight up using a short concise motion.
Be sure to use both hands equally, as though they were connected by a steel
rod. Mount the gun precisely from the same starting position each time.
Always mount to the same place on your face each time. Mount the gun to
the face not the shoulder. Do ten swing/mounts each day. (The best shots
make this part of their daily routine.)
Tip #3 - When shooting (or practicing your swing/mounts), position your
feet so that a line extending from your rear heel to your leading foot points
to where you will break the target. Keep your stance relatively narrow. This
position encourages a smooth swing and a good follow through.
Tip #4 - Learn to first swing the gun and then mount it. If we mount the gun as we swing to the
target, the mount takes no time. Allow your pointing instincts to take over your swing. As your
eyes become sharply focused on the target, finish the gun mount and shoot the instant the target
is in sharp focus.
Tip #5 - When pointing your gun, focus on the target and not the gun barrel or bead. Point, don't
aim. Aiming slows your swing and causes you to shoot behind. Since a shot string is 10-14' long,
use it to your advantage by pointing slightly more in front of a target. If you miss crossing
targets, you are probably shooting behind. Try to "miss" in front by doubling your lead, and if
still missing, try doubling the lead again.
Tip #6 - Gun fit is important. Have your gun fitted so it shoots where you look. This test requires
that you first have a consistent, well practiced gun mount. To test for gun fit, set up a pattern
board at 16 yards. Fire several consecutive shots by mounting and shooting at a center dot
without aiming, but by merely pointing at the target. If the highest pattern density is off center,
take the target and your gun to a competent gun fitter for adjustment.
Tip #7 - When shooting simultaneous (true) pairs, decide ahead of time which target you will
break. Generally, shoot the behind or lower target first, unless one target is quick to disappear
behind cover or is decidedly more difficult. Shooting the lower target first allows gun recoil to
bring you automatically to the upper target. Shooting the back target first allows your swing to
continue smoothly to the front target.
Tip #8 - When you're experiencing a missing streak, change something.
Change one of your postures. Double your lead. Or, give yourself less
think time by moving your gun hold point and target view point closer
to the break point. Pull the trigger the instant the gun is mounted to your
face and the target is in focus.
Tip #9 - Use low recoil target loads for practice. Shotshells containing 7/8-1 oz shot are adequate
for practice. The lessened amount of shot with more powder gives these shells high velocity, low
recoil, and excellent pattern integrity. Many tournament shooters prefer these light loads even
under tough tournament shooting conditions.
Tip #10 - Regular practice improves scores. However, when practice no longer improves your
hitting ability, take a lesson from a certified NSCA instructor. A competent instructor can
diagnose specific shooting problems and improve your proficiency. The dollars paid to a
competent instructor are quickly returned in better scores and saved ammunition.
Mike's Tip of the Month - Forward Allowance
The subject of forward allowance is one of the most interesting, and certainly one of the most
controversial, in shooting. Let us jump straight in at the deep end. If you want to hit a moving target
you must shoot where it is going rather than where it was. It never ceases to maze me, even after 40
years of shooting, how much lead some birds need. The other day, for example, I was shooting at a
battue clay (much thinner than the standard target) with a friend. It was fully 60 yards away, a true
crosser and still very fast. A lot of people had had difficulty with it before us. Having watched them
miss behind (typically two or three yards) again and again, I determined not to do the same.
Nevertheless, it still took me a couple of shots before I had the courage to get sufficiently in front.
Something in the region of 20 feet ahead was required to kill it. I could not believe it needed so much.
Few of us are used to shooting such targets. My disbelief of the lead required reminded me of similar
comments from clients when I stretch their limits. Once the bird is more than 30 yards away, whether
it is a clay or a rocketing pheasant, many people do not appreciate just how far forward they need to
be to kill it. They simply do not understand the extent of the lead required. Birds are missed in front
(and we shall discuss this error later) but - as far as average shots are comncerned - most misses are
undoubtedly behind. There is a psychological reluctance to shoot into blue sky (most apparent when
one tries to teach rifle-trained soldiers to shoot a shotgun). Birds are also missed behind more
frequently than they are in front because it is all too easy to stop the gun even when one appreciates
the need for lead; poor body rotation, poor visual contact and poor footwork can all be culprits.
Sticking to the KISS (Keep it Simple Stupid) philosophy, if everyone increased their lead pictures by
10-20% they would gain more birds than they would lose. On distant targets, I would say the average
shot is frequently 50% or more behind.
We all see lead in different ways, some claim not to see it all, many are aware of seeing a gap, some
look for a specific distance. With this in mind, you may want consider a few of the many ways one
might shoot a moving bird. Click here for more information on different techniques
I am no absolutist, though. Some have suggested (Robert Churchill amongst them) that one need
never do more than look at the bird; the subconscious mind will do the rest all circumstance. After
much trial in the field I think this advice only holds true to a certain point. I have chosen 30 yards as
an arbitrary limit for unconscious shooting (but it might be 25 or 35 or even further depending on the
individual). After 30 yards, I believe it is advisable to act a little more deliberately in applying lead
whatever specific method one may have used to get in front of the bird. One may simply say: "I am
going to give this one a bit extra," or, one may be more deliberate: "this one needs three yards." If
one takes either approach, one should, of course, look for the lead at the target. The muzzles are
seen, but only in peripheral vision.
People see lead differently, of course. It is often said that one man's inch is another man's yard.
Moreover, it is frequently given as a reason for not being specific about leads. I do not buy this
entirely. If someone tells you that he sees only a couple of inches of lead it is a sure sign that he is
looking at his muzzles, rather than the bird. And, there are, practically speaking, many occasions
when it is useful to tell someone to double their lead, "try a yard extra on that" or give them an
instruction based on comparison with the distance between fence posts, the width of a gate whatever is convenient and may make the point effectively. Provided that you have established a
bridge of communication and can read the shot, specific instruction can be a real help to the man who
is consistently missing.
We might note, moreover, that most targets have a theoretical or as it might be called "ballistic
lead". If I face a very high bird, I will often start by saying: "well, that is about 40 yards away, so I
want to be in region of 8 feet ahead". One of the skills of learning to apply lead, is learning to
appreciate distance and discovering the specific leads which might work at different distances on
standard targets (dig out your Eley diary). I like get clients to shoot the same bird with different
leads. Most find they can extend their normal forward allowance and achieve better kills. They also
discover that there is usually some considerable margin for error ahead but none behind. Another
point one discovers when becoming lead aware, is the huge variation in lead required by different
birds. The range of leads that most shots operate within is usually far too restricted. One needs to
learn to become brave in applying lead. One needs to be in habit of making quite dramatic variations.
Having gone to considerable length to explain the dangers of missing behind. I will now come clean
and admit many misses in the field are in front most notably when an experienced shot is shooting
under pressure at close birds. There is a tendency to misjudge distance and to over swing (I have also
noted that right-hand, right master eyed shots, often miss slow, close, clays, from the right. The
reason can be similar, but, in addition, this bird is notorious for inducing mysterious eye dominance
shifts). At what range is the average pheasant shot 25 yards? It may even be less if we are honest. At
such ranges minimal lead is required provided the gun keeps moving. The key to success is to sustain
this movement without rushing. I might also note that I think it is is inadvisable to use maintained
lead on such birds (as the technique can aggravate the tendency to miss in front).
The problems of forward allowance may be summed up thus. Many shots have not developed
sufficient understanding of lead nor have they developed sufficient feel for it. The range of leads
required by different targets really is extraordinary. One must introduce this flexibility into one's
shooting and not attempt to shoot everything the same way. Leading a bird often demands that you
are a bit adventurous; you have to risk it sometimes. Lack of confidence will cause the gun to stop.
Bringing the weight back will do the same. As an exercise, try shooting driven clay birds by different
methods. Try birds at different ranges and elect to kill them in different places. Experiment with
subconcious and deliberate lead (try the 30 yard rule). Whatever method you use, always try to shoot
smoothly with control and good rhythm. Bore holes in the bird with your eyes and keep the barrels
moving and your head on the stock as you follow through.
Different Shooting Techniques and Forward
Allowance
Forward allowance is a subject guaranteed to get
any group of shooters talking. Some swear that they
do not see a gap when they shoot the birds, most of
us do though, whether we apply lead consciously or
unconsciously. There are all sorts of system for
applying forward allowance. One may ‘SwingThrough’ from behind, one can touch the bird and
‘Pull-Away,’ or you can ‘Maintain a Lead.’ Some spot
shoot their birds – bring the gun straight up to a
point in front of the target without much if any
swing. It can all get pretty confusing, so the purpose
of this article is to explain some of these different
systems to you in a little more depth, and to get you
experiment.
Swing Through
Let’s start with the traditional way of shooting –
Swing Through, a.k.a ‘the smoke-trail-method’. The
idea, of course, is that you start from behind the
target (you don’t have to be miles behind) and then
move smoothly through it, firing instinctively as you
come in front. The idea is to brush the birds out of the sky. The method works very well. It
encourages good gun, flowing, gun movement and it is, in my opinion, one of the best ways to shoot
game consistently. Swing through is especially good for establishing line, and it usually ensures that
you shoot with a moving gun too – critical in the field when birds are moving fast.
The method is graceful, but it requires that you develop your basic mount and swing to perfection.
The power for the swing, remember, should always come from body rotation (or, in the case of
overhead birds, body bending), the fine control comes from the hands. Every clay and game shot
should learn the Swing Through technique. It is aided by a well-balanced gun and good stock fit. It
can come into its own on longer birds where there is a tendency to give them insufficient lead or to
stop.
Pull Away
Pull-Away is also a very useful technique. In the best known form – as taught by the CPSA for clays –
one mounts on to the moving bird, tracks it, and then pulls in front (again firing instinctively). I have
found this an excellent method for teaching beginners, it also has other uses. I call Pull Away the ‘getyou-out-of-trouble’ method. When everything is going wrong on clay layout, or when you note a lot of
peole having trouble on a particular stand, I often suggest to my students that they default to Pull
Away. You know that you are starting on the bird – you’re ensuring that you are in the same ball park
– and the method can work very well with deceptive angles birds or targets which are slow. It is not a
good game shooting method, nor is it the method of choice for very fast birds (where there is no
opportunity to track).
Touch and Push
‘Touch and Push’, as I have now named it, is a related technique. I have developed it for both game
and clay shooting (though people have probably been doing something very similar for years). It’s
very simple. With Touch and Push bring the tip of the un-mounted gun to the bird and push ahead.
There is no intermediate tracking stage and the gun is not in the shoulder as it first comes to the bird.
Its advantage is that it makes you establish a relationship with the target immediately. Some people
are very inconsistent in this respect, so doing it consciously can be a big help in improving their
performance. The technique is based on natural pointing ability. Proper use of the body and front hand
are still important.
Maintained Lead
Maintained Lead is well known to many shooters. It takes two distinct forms though. American skeet
and wildfowl shooters employ a version where the gun is kept forward of the bird all the time – the
basic idea of maintained lead shooting – but they apply a measured forward allowance. If we were on
a skeet field, it might be 18” for the low bird on Station 2 (you have to find out what works for you),
in the field you might be in a duck hide see a familiar presentation and say to yourself “now, I need to
be 10 feet in front of that bird.”
The other form of maintained lead has been developed by John Bidwell with his MOVE:MOUNT:SHOOT
technique. This is a maintained lead technique too – the bird never catches up with gun – but the lead
is applied instinctively (if you are clay shooting stand towards the sweet spot, take the gun half way
back and bring the muzzles about half-way down from the anticipated flight line – call for the bird,
keep your eyes glued to it and let the rest happen naturally). It’s an excellent system for shooting
clays, and John, of course, is its greatest exponent have won umpteen championships with this clever
but simple method.
Spot Shooting
Finally, I mentioned spot shooting. This is usually an instinctive technique employed by those who
have never had formal instruction, but it can work very well. You see the bird, you note (probably
unconsciously) where it is going and you bring the gun up and fire at a spot in front of your target.
Conscious ambushing can sometimes be required on a clayshoot. For example, where you are require
to shoot a bird abnormally fast, or when you have a rabbit that must be shot in a narrow window. It is
a difficult technique to master and worth a little practice.
Positive Shooting
My own POSITIVE SHOOTING SYSTEM is design for clay shooting only and is, in essence, the
unconscious version of Touch and Push. With POSITIVE SHOOTING align your body to the killing point,
bring the gun back to the spot where you first see the bird in focus – where you first see it as a solid
object – and take your eyes back to the zone where you first see the target as a blur or streak. You
will find if you do this that the muzzles come up to the bird naturally – neither swinging through from
behind or maintaining a lead in front – and move smoothly through. Keep you eyes on the bird and
nothing but the bird and fire without hesitation. The technique works well. It depends on good
preparation and notes the three ‘Universals’ for the perfect shot are Visual Contact, Balance and
Rhythm.
Get More Info and Videos on POSITIVE SHOOTING here.
Measuring
I am not one of those instructors who suggest one way is best. I get my students to try several
techniques and see which suit them. Some people, moreover, can get on by applying lead more
instinctively (as suggested by Robert Churchill and Major Ruffer) others need a more deliberate
approach. I think that it is useful to know – even as someone who does most of their shooting
instinctively – that required lead on a bird at 40 yards is going to be something in the region of 6-8
feet (more if the target is fast). To those that say “One man’s inch is another man’s yard” I would
reply “not if he is looking at the bird.” Every target has what might be described as a ballistic lead –
an actual distance that one must be ahead of it to allow for the velocity of shot and the speed of the
bird itself. Cartridge velocity by the way makes a very tiny difference to forward allowance (it is only a
significant issue when using very slow cartridges), but the speed and type of target does. As far as
clays are concerned, midis and battues often need far more lead. Minis on the other hand move at
about the same speed as a conventional target and are often missed in front. Any other issues yes.
The speed of your swing (and consequently the acceleration of the gun) may effect your perception of
lead. I also find that short barrelled guns and light guns seem to need more lead.
Gun Mount
It has often been said by those that know how to
shoot well that you must have a good gun mount as
a foundation of everything else. Many who work at
the retail end of the gun trade, for example, will tell
you that they can immediately get some idea of a
customer’s shooting ability when they first watch
him (or her) mount a gun in the shop. Experienced
shooting instructors note the same thing. For
example Chris Bird, Chief Instructor, at Holland &
Holland once commented: “Actually one starts
making judgements before the gun even comes out
of the gunslip, but the first mount and preparation
for it – clearing the gun properly and closing it with
due care - tells most. It's a good gauge to
experience and ability. The starting position of the butt, where it comes to in the shoulder, control
and timing..."
POINTS TO WATCH FOR WHEN MOUNTING (Chris Bird)



Left hand working well
No right hand lift
Guns mounted to eye



No element of head dropping on gun
The eye is locked on to target and the gun is brought up between
No breaking of visual connection between target and eye by moving head around too
much...


Not obsessive about shoulder pocket:
“slightly in from shoulder joint” ...
Skip to 1 minute in - Clip is from Mike's new natural shooting video available here
The gun mount is all of the swing behind the target....body moves first...left hand takes barrels to
back edge...complete mount and follow through....
Focusing on target and mounting to it...allow the target to govern your timing...especially when they
train on clays to shoot game...
“if game shots train on clays it is imperative that they learn that their target governs your timing. So
that when you are in the field whether a pheasant is faster or the roosting pigeon is slower the
translation from clays to game is much easy and is dealt with instinctively...the potential error is to be
taught just to kill the clay with a specific lead of 2 6 – they have learnt to break the clay not shoot the
target..."
You must focus on the target and mount the target to
GunMount For Clays Shooters
Really good clayshooters often practice their gunmount every day. Gun-mounting is a fundamental of
shooting technique. Many, including some comparatively successful shots, handicap themselves and
limit their ultimate progress, because they have never really learnt to mount a gun well. If you want
to achieve your full potential, you must work on, and perfect, your gun mount. It should be smooth,
unrushed, and both hands must work together. If you shoot gun down, as I would advise you do for
most sporting targets, the mount should be carried out to three beats, but with the tempo changing
depending upon the speed and angle of the shot. A close quartering bird, if taken out of the shoulder,
is a rapid ONE: TWO: THREE shot. A long crosser is taken at a slower pace
ONE.....TWO....THREEEEEE.
Body movements, a subject we discuss in more detail here, should be co-ordinated with the mount.
You will rarely be required to mount the gun alone, usually you will have to swing the gun too. So, we
might distinguish between a simple mount for a straight going away shot or incomer, and the more
common mount and swing required of the average crosser. It is, in fact, a swing and mount to be
precise, as the swinging motion should usually begin before the mount. I start to rotate my body, and
especially my upper body, before the mount commences as I begin to move with the target and bring
my muzzles to it in a gun-down position. Typically, I complete the mount on the back edge and push
forward as I apply forward allowance (usually an unconscious process for me until shots are taken at
longer ranges).
All of this might beg the question should one shoot gun-up or gun down? 99.9% of trap shooters
(unless they are taking part in ‘Hunter’s Clays’ as used to be and may still be shot in Scandinavia) will
shoot gun-up. They still have to mount the gun, of course, and doing it well is critical to success, but
they call for the clay with the gun in the shoulder. I don’t suggest you do otherwise. Gun-up shooting
makes trap targets significantly easier. For trap, I usually mount my gun into space about 30 degrees
above the trap house and bring my gun down onto my hold point. I also use a gun-up style, rules
permitting, for trap-like targets on a sporting range, and, most going away, quartering, and/or low
going away targets. Gun-up also works very well for teal.
My normal advice for teal, if you shoot both eyes open, is to mount onto the intended break point and
come exactly half way down the flight line of the target. If you shoot with one eye, you will need to
bring the gun back down, or nearly back down, to the trap to improve your visibility. This makes the
point that gun down shooting makes seeing the target easier, and also tends to improve timing, but, it
takes a little more time and risks a mid-shot glitch (so make sure your stock is not too long and you
pad – if you have one – not too sticky).
Domestic or NSSA skeet may be shot gun-up or gun-down, most of the really big scores are shot gunup, though my preference is for gun-down shooting (as used to be required many years ago). I also
believe that everyone should learn to shoot gun down because it is such a useful technique with so
many applications. Of course, there are a lot of variations – from the Olympic skeet method with the
butt down at the hip, to FITASC with the butt below the ‘nipple line,’ to having the gun just out of the
shoulder before the call (my own normal preference at English Sporting).
There are some basic principles with any mount, though. The butt should always be brought to the
face, the gun should not be pressed to the shoulder first with the head coming down afterwards. I
often tell people to bring their chins down a little before they start the mount and throw their focus
forward – I call this the bird of prey position. Another basic is that the head should not move as you
mount the gun. To prove to you why this is important, stand up now. Focus on something and point to
it with an extended arm and finger. Now, try it again and deliberately move the head as you point.
You will discover that it mucks you up completely and destroys all natural co-ordination.
The comb of the stock should come to the face comfortably. It locates under the cheek-bone in what is
called the zygomatic arch – a ridge of bone extending back to the ear. The head should be kept down
during the mount (indeed, all the way through the shot). BUT, you should not force the head or face
down onto the wood, all that is required is positive contact. If you push the head down excessively, it
creates tension, and, as I have often say: tension is the enemy of good shooting.
Where should the muzzles and stock butt start start? Advice varies. Percy Stanbury noted the barrels
should be kept well up with muzzles just under the line of sight. The top of the stock should be moreor-less parallel with the forearm of the rear arm. This is a classic starting position, but, practically
speaking it is too low to the rear and, arguably, too high to the front, in a lot of circumstances as far
as sporting clay pigeon shooting is concerned. Robert Churchill taught a quite different and most
distinct technique. His advice was that the butt should be brought back and under the shoulder. The
muzzles should be held much lower - parallel to the line of sight. It looks most odd to the uninitiated. I
also note, and often use, a hybrid method where the butt is brought under the armpit, but the
muzzles are held higher – just below the line of sight.
Biddy in his MOVE:MOUNT: SHOOT technique suggests a starting position for the muzzles that is
roughly speaking half way back along the line of flight and half way down (halfway between the
ground and flight-line). This is a most interesting technique and well worth experimenting with
whether or not you are routine maintain-leader.
In the case of a Stanbury style mount the gun will pivot about the axis of the muzzles as the mount
progresses, it will also be pushed towards the target with the shoulder going forward to meet it as the
mount is completed. In the case of the Churchill mount there is a much more exaggerated pushing out
of the gun as the mount commences and a less obvious movement of the shoulder to the gun at the
end (although Churchill might have argued the point). It tends to ensure a snag free mount without
dragging of the butt sole against the pectoral muscles and shoulder.
I use both styles for teaching purposes and various things in between! If I was to argue the merits of
the classic approaches, I might note that the Stanbury technique is more generally useful, but the
Churchill method, or, a modification of this that brings the butt under the armpit but keeps the
muzzles up, is excellent for anyone who is having problems with consistent gun mounting. It ensures
that the gun is properly positioned at the face and shoulder when the mount is completed. I often use
the Churchill mount as a teaching aid before progressing to other things. It is also useful for remedial
work with those who have mounting problems.
Where should the gun come to at the shoulder? It is often said that the sole of the butt must come to
the 'shoulder pocket', that is the natural pocket between shoulder joint and collar bone. For some, this
may be sound advice, but a number of very good shots, mount their guns on or partially on the
shoulder joint. Not only do I have no problem with this. I do it. It works perfectly well. Mounting the
gun on the upper arm, however, as will happen if your length of pull is excessive or if you are
inexperienced or in a bad habit is an absolute sin. It will lead to discomfort and bruising as well as a
lack of control.
When learning or teaching the mount, the importance of front arm control should be emphasised
(especially in the sporting context). You must not rush. The muzzles should not rise above you line of
sight. This will require some effort from the front arm. The rear hand must not dominate the mount.
An effort should be made as the mount progresses to control the muzzles with the front hand. Many
rush the mount and complete it far too early in the swing. This leads to a 'mount and slash' style of
shooting which not only looks horrible but destroys control and consistency. Another common problem
is 'cartwheeling' where one allows the gun to pivot about the axis of the front hand. The cure as
already noted, is better use of the front hand. The perfect mount, let me make clear, requires both
hands to work in unison.
If you want to improve your shooting, you are well advised to practice your dry mount as much as you
can with a proven empty gun. Practice the simple mount, and the swing and mount combined. I
sometimes use an Arrow Laser shot pointing device. It’s an excellent device and useful for gunfitting
too. Some people practice their gun mount with weighted barrels. To save the bother of unlocking a
cabinet, I keep an antique shotgun, in my living room, just for mounting practice. If I could afford it, I
might acquire one of the excellent computer simulators now available – the ‘Marksman Training
System’ from Sweden is an extraordinary piece of virtual reality kit.
Meantime, I advise that you practice your gun mount on a clay range as well and experiment. If you
have a friend who has a poor mount, advise they try the Churchill way, it is very useful for early stage
instruction and for remedial work. If you shoot gun down now, try and master gun down shooting. If
you do, I suspect that you will discover that there are horses for courses. I shoot 90% of sporting
targets with the gun just out of the shoulder, for the other 10%, the trappish birds and teal as noted,
shooting gun up is a real advantage in my opinion.
As for skeet, and I am a recreational skeet shooter only (though I love the discipline and shoot quite a
lot of it), I shoot most birds gun down with the exceptions of: High 1 (the over-head); High 2 (where I
usually mount the gun on a break point above the central point of the range and bring the mounted
gun exactly half way back along the flight line), and, Low 7. All my serious trap shooting is gun down,
but, occasionally, just for interest, I will have a go at DTL gun down – it’s a completely different sport!
As with stance and everything else, don’t take my word for any of this, experiment and have fun! One
final point, check your eye dominance out, undiagnosed eye dominance issues can play havoc with
gun mounting.
Eye Dominance for Shooting
Eye dominance is a most intriguing phenomenon. Most adult men have one eye that directs the
pointing process - finger or gun it makes no difference. When they point at a distant object, they will
line up with one eye - usually the right eye if they are right-handed. This dominant eye, the finger tip
and the selected object, will all be in a straight line. This is a natural sighting/pointing system.
For most people, shotgunning is easier, more natural and more effective keeping both eyes open.
When both eyes are kept open, the perception of distance and angle is enhanced, muscular tension is
minimised, and natural hand to eye co-ordination is improved (if you doubt it try catching a ball with
one eye shut). However, do not believe those who tell you simplistically that everyone should shoot
with two eyes open - it's just not that simple. It all depends on how you saw that finger.
About 70% of men have an eye dominance that matches their handedness. BUT, 30% do not. Most
right handers have a dominant right eye and the bulk of southpaws a dominant left. These are the
people who are well advised to shoot both eyes open (assuming that they are shooting from their
strong shoulder). It is also possible to be 'cross-dominant' (e.g. right handed but left dominant), to
have 'central vision' (neither eye dominant - a rare but distinct condition) or to have one eye which is
nearly, but not fully, dominant. In these cases keeping an eye open whilst using an unmodified gun
may be very poor advice which will result in consistent missing. The gun will not be pointing where the
eyes are looking. The unknown error may be a yard or more.
Eye dominance is subject to change too. It can be affected by all sorts of things: stress, ill health or
just staring at a computer screen for too long. Allowing the focus back to come back to the muzzles –
one of the most common mistakes in shooting – can also bring about mysterious shifts in dominance.
And, contrary to received wisdom, there can be a subtle connection between the ability to focus on a
target and eye dominance (although one’s dominant eye is not necessarily the one with which you see
best). If you find it hard to focus at distance, there will be a natural tendency to bring the focus back
to the gun. Another reason to get your eyes checked once a year.
Even those with absolute eye dominance in one eye and perfect natural or corrected vision must
concentrate on good focus technique. Vision is an active process in shooting – a skill as much as an
ability. We must train ourselves to sustain fine focus on the bird. The bird, the bird, and nothing
but the bird that must become our mantra. The natural tendency is for our vision to flick to a moving
object momentarily – a primal response to danger – but not to keep the eyes focused at distance for
any prolonged length of time (not even the 3 seconds or so it typically takes to shoot a bird in good
style). Understanding this, is to take on board one of the great secrets of good shooting – sustained
visual contact. One must train one’s eyes to shoot. Or, in the memorsble words of one friend: "STARE
THE BIRD TO DEATH!"
YOUR OPTIONS
Absolute dominance in the eye looking down rib: - Shoot both eyes open and get the
distance, angle and speed judging benefits of binocular vision.
Predominant dominance in the eye looking down the rib: - Keep both eyes open with extra cast,
or, dim eye as the shot is taken.
Permanent and absolute cross-dominance: - close an eye, use a 'blinder' to obstruct vision to
offending eye, use eye patch or modified shooting spectacles, consider a parallel rib (suitable for some
forms of clay shooting), use a full cross-over stock or change shoulders.
Occasional cross-dominance: - may be caused by stress/tiredness, could be a bogey target (for
which the diagnosis is to squint and/or use a pull-away or swing through technique rather than
sustained lead). You might also consider whether theproblem is aggravated by poor visual discipline or
your inability to focus consistently at distance. The cure for the former is improved technique, in the
latter case, prescription glasses may help. An excessively low stock is also a classic cause of crossdominance.
Central vision (neither eye dominant): - close an eye, use a 'blinder', eye patch or modified
shooting spectacles, use a semi cross-over stock.
Indeterminate dominance: - close an eye, wear an eye-patch, modified shooting spectacles, oruse
a 'blinder'. CHANGING SHOULDERS WILL NOT WORK.
Advanced Eye Dominance Information
Age is also a significant issue when considering eye dominance. This is a most intriguing. Most prepubescent boys do not have clear dominance in one eye. Post puberty, most (not all) develop absolute
or predominant eye dominance in the eye corresponding to their 'handedness'. As we enter the
summer and autumn of our lives things change too. Typically, somewhere between the ages of 45-60,
those men who were clearly dominant in one eye may find the other begins to have a significant pull.
Until diagnosed, this can result in inexplicable misses. Frequently, the cure is simple: a bit more cast
on the stock, or squinting on occasion.
There are significant sex differences too. With women, as with boys, absolute eye dominance in either
eye is not the norm. Many female shooters have what might be described as indeterminate eye
dominance with both eyes fighting for control - quite different to true central vision seen in some men
were the effect is equally balanced. Unlike the boys, they do not generally grow out of it. And,
recently, speaking to academics involved in researching vision, I discovered something else rather
extraordinary. The ratio of right/left eye dominance changes with different sports. For example, in a
sport like hockey, the percentage of men with absolute eye dominance in the right eye is smaller than
in shooting. It implies – and I want to confirm it by experiment – that eye dominance may, to far a
greater extent than previously realised, be a learnt skill.
Enough of the theory let us be practical. How do you test for eye dominance? Carefully. I use several
methods routinely - one may not be enough to spot a subtle problem. [Forget all methods such as
cards with holes that give you crude right/left decisions.] Start by asking the person under test to
stand square and point the index finger of his (or her) non-dominant hand - the one that holds the
forend and points the gun - at your eye (indicate which). Make sure the 'client' keeps both eyes open
and fully extends his arm when pointing. The distance between you should be no less than 10 feet.
If the pointed finger ends up clearly in line with one or other of the pointer’s eyes when you look back
at them, it is probable that this is their master. However, if you note that the client is having difficulty
'aiming', if his finger is moving around and not settling, if he tends to squint one or other of his eyes
as he tries to line up, it is probable that he is not absolutely dominant in one eye (the person with true
central vision, by contrast, will point confidently at you with a finger which appears to be in line with
the bridge of his nose).
Next, ask your guinea-pig to repeat the process with the other hand and with the arm relaxed by the
side: "Point at my eye again - but bring the arm and finger up quickly this time". This quick-pointing
method may confirm the first test, but frequently it reveals that an apparently non-dominant eye is
having some effect (in which case, you will see the finger momentarily pulled over to the 'nondominant' side as it comes up to the horizontal).
Finally, ask the person being tested to 'make a circle' by bringing the pads of thumb and forefinger of
the non-dominant hand together (or offer a physical aid such as a curtain ring to look through - "hold
this at arm's length and look at my eye"). These circle tests are especially helpful because the tester
can see if the eye is centred in the circle (indicating pure dominance) or to one side (indicating partial
dominance).
After a provisional diagnosis, one should move to a pattern plate for confirmation. If results are
inconsistent with both eyes open, suggest squinting – do things immediately improve? I also like to
watch the person being tested shoot a going away clay. Are they up one side? Try them on a simple
crosser too (from the right is they are right handed and shooting from the right shoulder). Is there a
tendency to shoot in front of it? This is the classic sign of an undiagnosed master eye problem. Before
assuming anything, check the gun. Too low a stock may cause a shift of eye dominance on all or,
some targets (in which case it will take the skills of Holmes to detect). You may also find that eye
dominance shifts are occasionally brought on by certain birds. My bogey is anything slow coming from
the right.
O.K. time for KISS (Keep it Simple Stupid). If someone has a slight eye dominance issue, a little extra
cast may offer a simple cure. If the problem is more significant, a practical choice may have to made –
a new gun with a bespoke stock, or squinting. If you do choose to squint or wink an eye, use both
eyes to pick the bird up, and squint or dim the eye slowly as the gun comes into the shoulder. It is
likely that most youngsters and most women will not be able to shoot with both eyes open (there are
exceptions). Some ladies find it very difficult to wink or squint (they are natural candidates for
modified shooting spectacles). Be very careful before you advise anyone to shoot off the opposite
shoulder. It may be that they are not absolutely dominant in either eye. In which case changing
shoulders is a completely futile exercise.
As for equipment, my experience is that over and under guns do not suit extremes of cast, but, with
longer barrels they can be an aid to effective pointing and therefore obviate the need for it. If you are
sure that you need a lot of cast, the traditional side by side may be the gun for you. Short barrelled
guns aggravate eye dominance problems, so do low combs as noted. Have fun experimenting, but, if
in doubt, please seek out a pro. This is a complex subject and professional guidance can be a real
help. I will conclude by noting that many people do not have the eye dominance that they think. The
right diagnosis can transform your shooting.
Gun Fit Part I
There are few things in life which are quite as satisfying to possess as a really well fitted shotgun. Just
what is a well fitted gun? The glib answer is that you will know one when you try it (and if you ever
have one and get rid of it you will regret it!). A well fitted gun is one that feels right, that points
naturally to where the eye or eyes are looking and that controls recoil effectively. Such a gun will
make anyone shoot better, even the man capable of shooting a reasonable round of skeet from the
hip. A well fitted gun is more forgiving and comfortable to use. Even when we make slight mounting
errors it will still kill the target. It is often said that the man behind the gun is more important than his
weapon. True, but put a good shot together with a perfectly fitted gun and the combination becomes
really hard to beat. I know of no shotgunners who think that they can do their best with any ol' gun.
Our goal in the shotgun sports is 100% not 99.
Lets get down to the nitty gritty. Essentially there are four variables of gunfit: drop (sometimes called
bend), length, cast, and pitch and grip (by which I mean the size, shape and angle of the grip).
Balance, trigger pulls, gun weight, barrel length and weight, relative point of impact and rib height
and elevation are also important issues and should be considered along with stock fit. In this first part,
however, we will consider only drop and length. That will be quite enough to think about! We'll begin
with drop, which is, in my opinion, the most important of all the gunfit variables.
Drop
Once the rib is set in position, drop controls the elevation of the gun in much the same manner as the
backsight of a rifle. It is difficult to make consistent allowance for unsuitable drop dimensions
(whereas small variations in length or cast do not make that much difference unless one is looking for
excuses). Too high a stock may make you shoot high. Too low a stock can cause low shooting, but it
can also cause inconsistent high-low shooting because of head lifting in compensation for the poor fit.
Another problem with a low stock is that it can encourage the wrong eye to take-over (because the
view to the master eye is blocked by the breech when the head is held on the stock). All things
considered, a little too high is far better than a little too low.
What most people want for sporting clays or skeet is a drop dimension which will result in about 5560% of the pattern being placed high and 45-40% low of the point of aim when the head is normally
positioned on the stock. Some prefer truly flat shooting guns, but I caution against them as they can
reduce target visibility. For trap shooting (or hunting) a higher shooting gun may be required. I have
found that a fairly flat shooting gun (about 60:40) suits me well for normal trap shooting, however,
my scores at wobble trap improve when I add about 1/8” extra to comb height. I am no fan of
extremes, a 70:30 pattern distribution relative to point of aim is as high as I would ever want to go on
any trap gun (yet, I acknowledge that there are some excellent shots who use guns which throw
almost the entire patterns above the mark).
Having got into some numbers, I might now mention that drop is usually measured "at comb" and "at
heel". Sometimes, a more central "drop at face" measurement may also be taken. Drop is simply the
distance between the top of the stock comb and the axis of the top surface of the rib (or the front and
rear points of the rib in the case of concave or shallow ribbed side by sides) as measured at the front
and rear of the comb [see diagram]. Typical dimensions for a modern, factory made, over an under
intended for sporting clays would be about 1 3/8" at comb and 2 1/8" at heel (assuming a
conventional rather than Monte Carlo stock). Old guns may be lower (19th century guns often had 3”
or more of drop at heel, before WWII 2 ½” was a common dimension). English guns, interestingly,
have tended to have higher combs (and longer stocks with more cast) than those made in the USA.
The classic dimensions for an English side by side would be about 1 1/2" and 2" (although there is
tremendous variation because nearly all these guns are custom made).
Here is my simple advice for sporting shooting, conventional ATA trap or NSSA skeet (consider it only
as a starting point for experiment). Set the stock up so that the bulk of the iris, the coloured part of
the eye, appears to be sitting centrally on the breech when your head is in a normal, unstrained,
position on the stock. The pupil should appear to sit on the breech/rib, like this:
I have assumed that you are using an over and under or repeater and that you do not need a great
deal of cast (and if that term baffles you see next month's issue). There are some other qualifications
too. It has been my experience that side by sides tend to shoot a little lower than over and unders all other things being equal. It has been suggested that this low shooting is because the barrels and
grip are more flexible than those on over and unders and therefore subject to more downward flex in
recoil. This may be so, whatever the answer, if you use a side by side, I advise a slightly higher fit
than for a stack barrelled or single tubed pump or auto. Similarly, long barrelled guns (32-34") can
have a practical tendency to shoot low too and may want a slightly higher comb in compensation for
this [short, stiff barrelled, guns by contrast may have a tendency to shoot high as do some very light,
small gauge, guns].
I have also found a higher fit to be useful in an Olympic Skeet gun. This discipline has a very rapid
mount from an extreme gun-down position than can lead to chopping below the line of the bird, a high
fit can compensate for this. Similarly with a hunting gun. The high fit has the added advantage in this
case that it helps one to keep up on the line of rising birds and equates to a little more lead on many
targets. In particular, a high fit may be especially useful for the 'one eyed' hunter (i.e the man or
woman who closes an eye), because visibility is generally increased and because the built in lead of a
high comb will facilitate shots at rising or incoming birds.
Thus, as a starting point for side by sides, long guns, trap guns to be used for fast bird disciplines,
Olympic skeet guns and any gun to be used for hunting, I suggest the following as a place to begin.
Note now that almost the entire iris is seen to ‘sit’ on the breech:
As well as effecting the position of the eye in the vertical plane, drop also affects the positioning of the
butt sole at the shoulder. Generally speaking (and there are exceptions), the top line of the stock of
the mounted gun should be more or less in line with the top of the shoulder (the exceptions occur
because some people like to mount the gun stock lower on the chest). One certainly does not want to
see any significant amount of the butt sole projecting above the shoulder line. If it does, do not
automatically assume it is a fit problem - it could be caused by a poor mounting style. Some people,
for example, are in the horrible habit of bringing the gun to the shoulder and then bringing the head
down to the stock. The gun should always be brought to the face first. Never adjust a gun to
compensate for such faults in basic technique.
Those with long necks, sloping shoulders or small heads - may be well served with a monte-carlo
stock. This can also be useful for young shots and women; anyone with a head smaller than the
average male is likely to need a higher stock than the norm to get their eye properly in line with the
rib. Monte-carlo stocks keep the top of the comb parallel or more-or-less parallel with the axis of the
rib. In any stock, if there is a lot of slope in the comb felt recoil will be increased (especially if the
slope of the comb is at odds with the shape of the user's face). If the comb is parallel or nearly
parallel to the rib axis (and if the comb itself is well shaped), the comb will glide back under the
cheekbone as the gun is fired and felt recoil will be reduced. This brings us to RULE 3: keep the
difference in the dimensions at comb and heel as small as possible.
Length
The length of the gunstock (also called the 'length of pull') is the distance from the middle of the
trigger to the middle of the butt sole. Professionals will also measure the length to heel and toe (which
determines pitch (which we will consider in more detail next week). Sticking to the KISS philosophy,
we might note: use as long a stock as you can comfortably mount and swing. This is most usefully
determined in the case of sporting shooting by a high overhead shot (a tower bird or something
similar). Too short a stock will increase the recoil you feel; too long a stock will check the swing. Most
experienced sporting shots tend to prefer a longer stock in my experience. Once one has perfected the
mechanics of the mount, a longer stock allows for more control. A typical length measurement as
required by an adult male would be in the range 14 to 16". Most factory guns are made with
dimensions between 14 1/4 and 14 3/4". One size certainly does not fit all.
You automatically assume that all your guns should have the same length of stock. For ease of
mounting, very heavy guns should be shorter and very light ones (such as small bores) longer all
other things being equal. A hunting gun for use in the winter with heavy clothing, moreover, will want
to be shorter than a competition gun to be used in spring and summer. As a rough guide for 12 bores
of normal weight, I like to see about two finger widths of gap between the base of the thumb and the
tip of the nose when the gun is properly mounted. The popular method of holding the gun at the grip
and seeing if the butt sole makes contact with the lower bicep when the arm and gun are held up is
imprecise and should be used with caution as a only very rough guide (it can give you a rough idea
when sizing up a beginner who has little idea how to mount a gun).
Whether considering length or drop (or, for that matter, any other gunfit variable), never start with
any 'ideal' measurements in mind, what is right is what suits the individual as assessed by trial and
observation in the chosen discipline. My practical advice is to begin by gettting length approximately
correct, then work on drop, before fine tuning the length. Do not be afraid to make temporary
adjustments by means of comb raisers or strips of card taped to the stock with vinyl electrician's tape
(which will not have any serious effect on wood finish if carefully used). If you use a butt extender in
your experiments, cardboard shims may be cut to increase length and wrapping the boot with tape
will prevent snagging. Find a rubber one if you can, the leather type tend to be too bulky and usually
have a very poor sole shape. If your problem is too high or too long a stock, enlist the help of a
gunsmith and proceed with caution and patience. Wood is easily removed, but hard to replace.
STOCK ALTERATIONS
Alterations for drop (and cast) are usually made by placing the stock in a jig, heating the grip area by
means of hot oil, steam or infrared light (my favourite) and applying pressure in the desired direction.
The stock must be pushed a little further than required as there is a tendency for the wood to spring
back when it is cooled. Drop and cast may also be altered 'at the head' by removing small amounts of
wood from the stock in the area where it meets the back of the action. Drop can also be reduced by
removing wood from the top of the comb (though this is best left to an expert if the shape of the
comb is to be properly preserved) or increased, by inletting wood. I frequently raise combs in this
way, adding the comb section of an old, broken, stock to a flat machined onto the top of the stock of
the gun being modified. The usual result is a subtle monte-carlo comb.
A comb which is a little too high is far better than one which is a little too low
Do not adjust guns to faults in basic technique
Keep the difference between drop at comb and heel to a minimum
Use as long a stock as you can comfortably mount and swing
Never start with any ideal dimensions in mind
Do not be afraid to experiment with temporary adjustments
Gun Fit Part II
In the last part we considered drop and length, in this part we will begin by considering cast. It is the
extent to which the stock is angled to the left (cast-on) or right (cast-off) and is an especially
important variable of gunfit to those who have less than absolute eye dominance or have a body
shape which does not conform to the 'Mr. Average' norm. Cast is usually measured at heel and toe,
typical dimensions would be 1/8" and 3/16" respectively (though guns may be much more heavily
cast in some cases). The need for a difference in the cast dimensions at heel and toe is explained by
human anatomy: the bulk of the chest calls for the sole of the stock to be slightly angled to achieve
firm and comfortable support. That said, some factory made guns are built without any cast at all
(and, with these, the only way one may get the eye in line with the rib is by tilting the head).
Usually a right-handed shot has a cast-off stock (i.e. one cast to the right) and a left hander, one that
is cast-on. Those with broad chests may want more cast than average, and it can also be used to
accommodate differences in facial width and type (a right-hander with wide spaced eyes may
occasionally be accommodated by cast-on normally reserved for southpaws). In fitting for cast, it
must be understood that it is not simply a question of getting the eye precisely aligned with the rib in
the horizontal plane (though this may be used as a starting point for fitting). Some people will need
very considerable cast because of eye dominance anomalies; the extreme being those who need a
stock with a distinct dogleg in it to compensate for the effects of cross-dominance or central vision. In
many of these cases the eye will be no where near the centre line of the rib. Many more may need 1/8
or 1/4" extra at heel to compensate for a left eye which is having the effect of pulling the aim off
target slightly. Cast (and the need for it) may be tested at the pattern plates and on straight driven
and going-away targets. Quartering birds can also be useful in this context.
Cast should always be kept to the absolute minimum required. It can increase felt recoil; it puts more
strain on a weak area of the stock (the wrist), and in its extremes can also hinder natural gun
pointing. Cast also has the effect of dropping the head (adding cast may require you to raise the
stock as well). I particularly dislike seeing extremes of cast on over and unders. An alternative or
supplement to cast is to offset the comb. One often sees the combination of offset and cast on
bespoke guns. This allows for cast at heel to be substantially reduced. Very thick combs, as seen on
some Italian trap guns may unintentionally push the eye to the left of the rib. A simple cure for this is
to carefully thin the comb or to fit an adjustable comb and offset it slightly. Sometimes, one sees guns
in which the comb has been 'swept' or 'scooped' as a means of altering eye-rib relationship without
increasing cast. If one looks at the side of the comb on such guns, a concave curve or depression will
be seen in the side of the stock.
As with drop, cast affects the positioning of the gun at the shoulder. It is often said that the butt sole
should sit in the so-called "shoulder pocket" located between shoulder joint and collarbone. I do not
accept this as an absolute rule. For some it is the right place, but, many first class shots mount the
gun on or near the shoulder joint and would be uncomfortable doing other wise. It depends on the
shape of one's upper body and one's style of mounting and the discipline being shot. What is
absolutely wrong is to mount the gun on the upper arm. This is a frequent error and results in the butt
being insufficiently and inconsistently supported; bruising is a common result.
We have not yet said much about pitch (sometimes called 'stand'). The length of the stock from the
middle of the trigger to the heel and the toe control the pitch of a gun and, when taken together with
the length of pull, the shape of the butt sole too. Pitch concerns the angle of the of the butt sole
relative to the axis of the rib and may be measured approximately by standing the gun against a wall,
with the top of the action touching it's surface and the butt sole against the floor (make sure that the
wall is truly perpendicular to the floor). If you are really keen, pitch can be measured in degrees in a
specialist jig (measuring in this fashion is more precise because barrel length does not affect the
result). Typically, the measurement is about 2" 'pitch down' on a sporting clays or skeet gun, but may
be significantly less on a dedicated trap gun (which, of course, is intended exclusively for rising
targets). Some trap guns may even have positive pitch). The pitch measurement is also important on
a hunting gun. In live quarry shooting, there is a need to keep well up on line as the swing
progresses. The right pitch dimension will facilitate this and makes rising and crossing shots in the
field significantly easier.
Rather than encouraging you to get protractors out, I would say that the simple rule for pitch is to
create a stock in which the surface of the butt sole is in comfortable full-length contact with the
shoulder when the gun is mounted and in which there is no unwanted tendency for the barrel to point
up or down relative the line of sight. If the toe or heel of the butt sole or its centre are not in firm
contact with the shoulder, or, if the pitch measurements cause the butt sole to catch or slip at the
shoulder something is clearly wrong. When the gun is mounted, watch to see if the heel or toe are
coming to the shoulder first. Temporary adjustments to pitch can easily be made to guns with butt
plates or recoil-pads by loosening off the screws and introducing shims. Women and men with large
chests may want a reduced toe measurement and, often, a rounded toe as well.
One of my approximate tests for pitch involves asking the client to point a proven empty gun at my
eye from a range of about 15 feet [this is not something I do lightly or without stringent safety
procedure]. As a starting point for experiment, what I want to see is the striker/firing pin hole well
centred in the circle of the muzzles as I look down them (which is indicative that the gun is not tipping
up or down relative to the line of sight). In case you think that this sounds rather difficult, I might add
that, provided you are standing with some light behind you, it is usually surprisingly easy to see the
breechface and striker hole from the muzzle end of the gun - even if you are some distance away.
The curve of the butt sole should also match the shoulder and mounting technique of the user.
Someone who mounts the gun on the shoulder joint wants a curved sole to match the shape of it
(whatever they may be shooting - skeet, sporting or live birds). Someone who mounts in the 'shoulder
pocket' or lower, on the chest, wants an entirely different shape to achieve consistent support. When I
am custom fitting guns, I ignore the normal designations on pads such as "trap", "skeet" or "sporting".
The individual's body shape and his or her technique are much more important. Often I will use a trap
pad in a sporting gun. In fact, the occasions when I use a flat pad are rare (I meet few cleints with a
flat shoulder).
Grip shape is another important variable of gun fit. The grip must be so formed that the wrist is not
obliged to be excessively cocked, it must be wide enough in circumference, and not excessively
rounded in cross section (most are oval or diamond shaped) to achieve adequate purchase and gun
control. Any grip which narrows to its front (i.e. a grip which is not even in depth front to rear, but
rather goes from a thick rear to a thin front) may encourage the hand to slip forward in recoil. Such
grips - and there are a lot of them out there - are poorly designed. A grip for sporting clays or hunting
where the gun, when used well, should be pushed towards the bird (with the shoulder coming forward
to meet the gun) wants to be less acutely angled than a grip for a trap shot who prefers to pull the
gun back to his shoulder during the mount. [The most extreme example of the pulling grip is the
hooked type made famous by Fred Etchen.]
Any grip must not only be the right shape, it must compliment the size of the palm and length of
fingers. Palm swells are fine on trap guns IF they fit the shape of the users hands. Otherwise they are
a hinderance to good shooting. Generally, I do not advise their use for skeet or sporting. The position
of the nose (front) of the comb is important in all cases, if it is too far forward (a common failing of
mass produced guns) the hand is unable to take up a comfortable, effective, position. The nose is
easily brought back by a competent gunsmith who may also choose to change the shape of the flutes
beneath the nose to suit the individuals hand. Often, it is not so much a case of poor fit, but of poor
design initially - many of the grips on factory produced guns fit no human hand. Finally, we might note
that trigger pulls must also 'fit' the user and the weight of the gun. A first pull of about 3-3 1/2 pounds
and a second pull 1/2 pound heavier is about right for the average competition 12 bore (excessively
light, heavy or inconsistent pulls can cause real problems). It goes without saying that triggers must
break cleanly without creep and the trigger blades themselves should be well shaped to suit the
individual.
ALWAYS HANDLE A GUN AS IF IT WERE LOADED
The term 'balance' covers all sorts of imponderables but let's keep it simple. If the gun is grossly
barrel or stock heavy, as measured using the hinge pin as a fulcrum (assuming a break action gun),
you are - in most circumstances - not going to do your best shooting. It is all too common to see guns
beautifully lengthened or fitted with recoil pads or recoil reducing devices in which no attempt has
been made to restore balance. Many mass produced guns, especially those with multi-chokes, are too
muzzle heavy when they leave the factory. This is because modern barrels tend to be fairly thick to
accomodate multi-chokes and modern wood tends to be quite open grained and light. To counteract
this, weight may be introduced into the back of the gun by means of lead or lead shot and putty. With
fixed choke guns, back-boring or rib modification may reduce barrel weight, although it worth noting
that barrels, even long ones, can be made too light. What most people want is a gun which is lively
but not wild.
Sometimes one needs to reduce stock weight, in which case the stock may be hollowed by drilling or
internal carving. There are, morevover, all sorts of weights that one can buy to attach to barrels, place
in mag tubes or insert into stocks to create a muzzle heavy balance. Balance is a very personal
business. My advice is to avoid extremes. Barrel weight and balance are especially critical factors in
trap guns (faster disciplines usually benefitting from lighter barrels). In a skeet gun one can get away
with (and even benefit) from muzzle heaviness (especially if the gun is being used premounted). Such
a balance may encourage a smooth follow through. For sporting clays, my preference is for light, but
long barrels and a near hinge pin balance. I prefer fixed choke barrels for sporting because they tend
to be lighter. For hunting, a hinge pin balance and light barrels of about 28" would be my ideal (I also
like the weight to be concentrated in the centre region of the gun if it is to be used for live birds). Very
short barrelled guns tend to be too quick (rushing is one of the commonest of all shooting errors
whether consider game or clays). Alterations to balance can profoundly effect the way a gun handles
and may effect apparent weight. A heavy, well-balanced, gun is vastly superior to a lighter ill-balanced
one.
Teaching Young Shots
As a father of four, I have a special interest in teaching Young Shots. My two boys are keen shooters,
and both have bagged their first pheasants in the last couple of years. They both shoot clays too.
Jamie my eldest boy shot 50 ex 60 in his first sporting competition at Hollland & Holland, and we have
won two events as members of the same team together - if you detect a bit of prde you're right.
Harry, my youngest son, and I once managed to win the father and son event at the British Schools
Championship - another red letter day. My eldest daughter, Alexandra, has just asked me to continue
with her shooting education (lapsed for some years) because she has friends who shoot. And, my
youngest, Elizabeth, is still making up her mind – she has bags of natural ability and is a most efficient
clay buster with .410 or 20. I think it is absolutely essential not to push a child into shooting just
because it is one’s own sport. Help them if they show interest, but don't push it.
There are, meantime, quite a few pitfalls in teaching young people to shoot. I frequently see well
meaning parents or part-time instructors going about it in the wrong way. My kids took their first
shots with an air-rifle when they were very young (and I advocate training/practice with an air gun
before shotgunning is considered). This was an occasional treat. I would set up knock-down targets or
a tin can in the garden. We all had a lot of fun. Even before these first shots with a ‘real’ gun, my
brood had had the safety message constantly re-enforced. They were not allowed to point their toys
guns at people.
Never, never, let your gun…was a mantra that they all
knew by the age of 6. Living in a house where guns were
frequently seen (but always secured) and with a father who
is a shooting instructor required that they should take on
board the basic rules of safety early. My two youngest kids
also had significant experience of beating from an early
age, as well as watching their dad teach people to shoot.
This sort of ‘secondary’ shooting experience is extremely
useful – something from which many urban kids do not
usually benefit. The bottom line is that they became safety
aware from a young age and accepted guns and shooting
as something ordinary.
If you are going to attempt teaching a child or young person to shoot, I would say first, that you
should consider letting a professional, at the least, start the process. I’ll be frank, I just see too many
kids receiving poor instruction. With that caveat in place, let me note some of the basics if you are
determined to pursue the DIY route.
Safety
You must be aware of safety at all times. You must brief your student on the basics. Don’t over do it –
young minds, like adult ones can only take in so much. You should emphasise, however that guns are
dangerous, that you should never point a gun at something you do not wish to shoot, and that one
must always check that a gun is unloaded when you pick it up, put it down or pass it someone else. I
like to demonstrate the power of a shotgun by shooting a plastic milk container full of water. This can
be quite spectacular and stays in the mind. I also like my young shots to make a point of putting their
finger in the empty chamber or chambers and saying ‘clear’ when they are proving guns unloaded.
Never forget, though: YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE.
Eye Dominance
It is rare for a young shot to be able to shoot with both eyes open. You should test for eye dominance
as you would with an adult, but you will usually find that kids (like most women) have what is best
described as indeterminate eye dominance where both eyes fight for control (frequently misdiagnosed
– even by professionals – as left eye dominance). The simple way round this is to close one eye or to
place a patch over it (which might be attached to safety glasses – like ear protection, a necessity for
young shots).
Guns
It is vitally important that you select the right gun and cartridge for your student. The gun should not
be too heavy – the key point is that your protégé must be able to support the gun without arching the
back (a common reaction to an over-heavy gun). For the very young, I have found nothing better
than a Webely .410 bolt action – they are not expensive and they shoot very well. I do not like to use
cheap single barrel break action guns or folding .410s with single or double barrels. If you are
wondering why, try shooting one! Usually they are ghastly contraptions with very heavy trigger pulls.
Lincoln and Rizzini offer some excellent .410, 28 and 20 bore over and unders at reasonable cost.
Beretta’s Silver Pigeon in 28 or 20 bore would also be ideal if you want to spend a little more. In the
case of the 20, I would usually advise the 28” fixed choke gun – as there is less weight to the front.
20 bore, gas operated, semi-automatics are also worth consideration. Some will use side by sides. The
little Yildiz .410 is especially good value, there are also some excellent Spanish box-lock small-bores
(which are even better value if bought second-hand). Generally, however, I would prefer an over and
under. I think that they are significantly easier to shoot. This is not a prejudice, I do a lot of shooting
with my own side by sides, it is a professional observation. Side by sides do not control recoil as well,
nor do they point as well as well made over unders.
Gun fit
Gun fit is another critically important consideration for young shots. Kids have smaller heads than
adults, consequently they need a high comb as well as a shorter stock (assuming that they are of
shorter than adult stature). The cheap way to raise a comb, is to use a rubber comb raiser fixed with
vinyl electrician’s tape (you can also use plasticine or corrugated card strips). Without getting too
complicated what we want to achieve is a stock fit where the young persons pupil is ‘sitting’ on the
breech/rib when their head is in a comfortable position down on the stock.
With regard to length, if you shorten a stock down for a young shooter, make sure that you keep the
off-cut (as kids are guaranteed to grow like weeds). When I shorten a stock, I also tend to make it a
little longer than ideal for the same reason. When fitting an adult I like to see two finger widths
between the base of the gripping thumb and the tip of the nose. With rapidly growing young shots, I
usually increase this to three or four finger widths.
Cartridges
Cartridge selection is as important as gun selection when teaching kids. If they get punished by recoil,
they will be put off shooting for life. If you are using a .410 opt for 2 or 2 ½” shells. If you are using a
28, make sure that you get light payload cartridges 21 grams or, preferably, less. With a 20 go for
subsonics or light payloads, too, and with a 12 do not consider anything else other than 24 gram shell.
I especially recommend the Express HV 24 in plastic or fibre and Hull Chevron Low Recoil.
Target selection
Kids must see success in their first (and subsequent) lessons or they will lose heart and not be inclined
to continue. Far too often I see young shots (and adult beginners) being thrown in at the deep end
and being presented with target that are far too hard. The targets required for ab-initio instruction
are as follows: a floppy incomer going to one side of the firing point, a slow going away bird, low 2 on
a skeet range (or high 6 for a left-hander), and, a slow rabbit if available.
Technique
I want to keep this simple this month. Show your student how to hold the gun properly. Rear thumb
wrapped around the grip, front hand in a mid-way position on the forend (assuming an over and under
or semi). Emphasise the importance of keeping the HEAD ON THE STOCK and the weight FORWARD.
Show the required relationship between bead and bird (I keep an epoxy mini-target for doing this).
Take real care with foot position. Stand square to point where the target will be shot, take half a pace
forward with the left foot (assuming a right-hander). Have a couple of shots dry – and if it’s the first
few birds it should be the floppy incomer – before shooting a target with a cartridge in the gun. Do not
be afraid of offering a little support under the action or barrels if it helps. A gentle push on the
shoulder may encourage a weight forward head on the stock stance. Be gentle, don’t rush, and be
ready to physically intervene at any moment. The bird is coming NOW, don’t rush, BANG! If someone
other than you is smiling all is going well.