GUERNSEY | WEST COAST
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WEST COAST
The crags on the West Coast are between 6 and 10 metres in height, with the exception of Le Guet
which reaches 30 metres. Rock quality is generally good as the crags get a good clean by the
elements. Good bouldering can also be found dotted along the West Coast.
PORT SOIF GRANDES ROCQUES
LE GUET
ALBECQ – CHATEAU D’ALBECQ (LION ROCK)
FORT HOMMET – FAIRY CAVES
LIHOU ISLAND
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GETTING THERE
Get yourself to Cobo Bay. You’ll end up at the filter in turn by Cobo Chip Shop or the filter in turn just
along from the Rockmount Pub. Either filter in turn is good.
For Port Soif and Grandes Rocques, head north (right facing the sea) along the coast road. Grandes
Rocques is reached by turning off left at the bus stop opposite the Wayside Cheer Pub. Follow the
gravel road to a gravelled car park and park there. The climbs at Grandes Rocques are under the fort
at the end of the headland. Keep following the coast road past the bus stop for Port Soif, a half mile
or so on you will come across signs for Port Soif Ice Cream Kiosk. Follow these signs. Take the left
fork to the car park at the top of Port Soif headland. The climbs are on the outcrop directly in front of
the car park.
For Le Guet, Albecq – Chateau D’Albecq (Lion Rock) and Fort Hommet – Fairy Caves, head south
(left facing the sea) along the coast road.
Le Guet will be visible pretty much straight away. Follow the coast road, going past the triangular car
park on the right, and park in the square car park by Cobo Ice Cream Kiosk. To get to Le Guet, cross
the road and go up the stairs alongside the small stone building. From the top of the stairs, follow a
path/track south (right facing inland) through the trees to the bottom of the crag.
For Albecq – Chateau D’Albecq (Lion Rock) and Fort Hommet – Fairy Caves, follow the coast road
around Albecq headland and take the first right hand turning towards Fort Hommet. Park in the car
park on the left at the bottom of the hill. Albecq – Chateau D’Albecq (Lion Rock) is a short walk back
north around Albecq Bay, leave the footpath just before Portelet to follow the spur to Chateau
D’Albecq (Lion Rock). Fort Hommet – Fairy Caves is reached by heading west (left facing the sea)
along the foot path opposite the entrance to the car park. Upon reaching the Fairy Caves, descend
onto the rocks on the north side and walk out to the two stacks.
Lihou Island is a couple of miles further south along the coast road. Once past Perelle Bay, Fort
Saumarez will come into view. Follow the coast road round a 90 degree bend underneath the tower
and turn right by the post box in the middle of the triangular section of road. Follow the one way (Rue
du Braye) to the car park on the headland. Further information on getting to Lihou Island is at the
beginning of the section for Lihou Island.
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PORT SOIF
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1
1
2
2
Deep Water
Solo
1
N
This area on the West Coast contains several small outcrops. The area is useful for bouldering.
Tidal Access; The first five routes flood about two hours before high tide and are on the north side
of the crag. The last three are usually accessible at any tide level dependent on sea state.
Routes are described from right to left. At the seaward end is a small slab.
Slipper | D | A in the Topos
Follow the rightward facing corner at the left hand end of the slab.
First Ascent; Unknown (1)
The Winkler | M | B in the Topos
Start 8 feet to the left. Climb the white-sided step, then follow the ramp over the pink vein and large
ledge.
First Ascent; Unknown (1)
Corpuscle | HS 4a | C in the Topos
A pleasant but serious route following the pink vein. Climb The Winkler for a few feet, then follow the
pink kinked vein.
First Ascent; Unknown (1)
Corner Climb | S | D in the Topos
A good little climb up the large corner to the left.
First Ascent; Unknown (1)
Close to the Edge | VS 4c | E in the Topos
To the left is an arête with a small overhang. Climb the slab and arête, moving right around the small
roof.
First Ascent; Unknown (1)
The narrow east wall is split by two crack systems;
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GUERNSEY | WEST COAST
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Salamander | VS 5a | F in the Topos
An awkward climb up the vertical crack to the right.
First Ascent; Unknown. (1)
The Swinging Salmon | HS 4b | G in the Topos
Climb the wide crack 6 feet to the left.
First Ascent; Unknown. (1)
** | Salt ‘n’ Wound | E5 6b | 9 metres | H in the Topos
The striking sharp arête of the crag: drive-in thrills for climbers and visitors alike! Protection is reliable
and falling not entirely out of the question. Climb easily to the break at 4 metres. Arrange good gear,
then layback the right hand side of the arête to a jug. A sloping mantel and a round of applause
remain.
th
First Ascent; Martin Crocker and Christian Harvey, 24 April 2003. (5)
PORT SOIF – TOPOS
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GUERNSEY | WEST COAST
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GRANDES ROCQUES
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1
Deep Water
Solo
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2
1
N
Immediately west of the fort is a narrow pebble filled cove. It is overhung on its east side by a west
facing crag which supplies a brace of athletic micro/highball routes on superb rock. Take some
padding to mitigate the effects of cratering onto the 12 inch pebbles, but beware, lilos puncture easily.
All routes appear to have some gear; grades are for headpoint solos, but are probably similar for onsight leads. Bouldering grades might be more appropriate for Guernsey Mountaineering Club outings!
Tidal Access; The first two routes will flood an hour or two before high tide. The other routes
remain relatively non tidal depending on the sea state.
At the left end of the wall, around a rib is a slabby extension seamed with cracks;
Hill Climb | VS 4c | 7 metres | A in the Topos
Climb cracks above a red patch.
nd
First Ascent; Martin Crocker (Solo), 22 April 2003. (5)
Two Churchills | E1 5c/6a | 9 metres | B in the Topos
Cup the first of two rounded bosses on the rib, and – using the crack on the left – step onto the
second one (6a if the bosses are connected directly – much better). Exit right.
nd
First Ascent; Martin Crocker (Solo), 22 April 2003. (5)
* | Lilo Islands | E4 6b | 6 metres | C in the Topos
Very powerful. Right of the rib is a series of overhangs left of a groove. Gain a hanging flake and
then – somehow – a flat finishing ledge. Be prepared to jump from the lip.
nd
First Ascent; Martin Crocker (Solo), 22 April 2003. (5)
Hissing in the Pebbles | E3 6a | 6 metres | D in the Topos
Don’t be duped by its size or lowly grade; take a black flake and make problematic moves up to the
groove.
nd
First Ascent; Martin Crocker (Solo), 22 April 2003. (5)
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* | Quarter Moon | E3 5c | 10 metres | E in the Topos
A fine test piece, grit like in temperament. Make strenuous moves to a leftward sloping ramp in the
highest part of the wall. Move up delicately past an undercut flake (supplying the only gear en route if
leading) and reach a jug high on the wall. Step left to finish.
nd
First Ascent; Martin Crocker (Solo), 22 April 2003. (5)
Something to Prove | E1 5b | 6 metres | F in the Topos
The overhanging nose near the right hand end, for show offs.
nd
First Ascent; Martin Crocker (Solo), 22 April 2003. (5)
The ridge on the west side of the cove furnishes a variety of short walls and slabs. Some nice solos
here including the cracks in the right side of the face of the triangular pinnacle (7 metres, HVS 5a). (5)
GRANDES ROCQUES – TOPOS
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LE GUET
1
Deep Water
Solo
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1
1
N
This is one of the few landlocked developed cliffs in Guernsey. The rock quality is very good, but the
routes tend to become lichenous and overgrown. Tidal Access; The crag is non tidal.
Beaker’s Corner | E2 6a | 35 feet
Climbs the corner at the right hand edge of the slab. Aiding up to the ledge drops the grade to a
poorly protected E2 5b.
th
First Ascent; Rory Williams and Alan Hill (3 points of aid), 26 September 1983. (1)
Island Games | E5 6b | 70 feet | A in the Topo
The left arête of the main face. Climb the arête to a shot hole. Peg runner or tri-cam. Move right to a
ledge, then go up and back left to the arête, 2 peg runners (removed). Bold and balancy moves now
lead up the arête to a peg runner. The crux move here leads to the final moves (protected on the first
ascent by a pre placed 8 foot sling draped over the top of the cliff).
th
First Ascent; B. Woodley and J. Richardson, 8 September 1987. (2)
Frigid Digits | HVS 5a | 60 feet | B in the Topo
This route slants beneath the headwall to the red corner. Start on an earth ledge 15 feet right of the
arête. Climb the leftward facing corner to a ledge. Move right 12 feet to the corner and climb this
(crux).
th
First Ascent; Paul Wood and Paul Torode, 17 March 1985. (1)
Bored of Administration | A1 | 30 feet | C in the Topo
A pleasant aid pitch in a fine position. Start where Frigid Digits finished. Nut and peg left along the
horizontal crack to gain and follow a vertical hairline crack.
th
First Ascent; Rory Williams and Alan Hill, 26 September 1983. (1)
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** | Bored of Administration | E6 6b | 10 metres | D in the Topo
Dumbfounding moves in a cool position. Abseil into a semi hanging stance on a sloping ledge under
the right hand end of the horizontal crack under the headwall. Traverse intricately left along the crack.
A weird move gains a vertical crack; then a heinous sequence acquires the lip, a short finishing slab,
and success (one in situ Rock 2 a metre up the vertical crack and one peg a metre below the lip, both
pre placed and removed).
rd
First Free Ascent; Martin Crocker and Christian Harvey, 3 June 2004. (5)
LE GUET – TOPO
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ALBECQ – CHATEAU D’ALBECQ (LION ROCK)
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1
3
Deep Water
Solo
1
1
N
This is the obvious lump of rock on the northern side of Albecq Bay, it is known by many locals as
Lion Rock. The rock is pink Cobo granite. Please be careful with the ancient stone work on top of
Chateau D’Albecq when climbing here. Tidal Access; Most routes can be achieved on any low
tide. Spring tides maybe best to get access to the lower section of the rock. Chateau D’Albecq does
get cut off on high spring tides, however it is safe to stay on.
Routes are described from left to right.
Goldfinger | D | 30-35 feet | A in the Topos
This is the first climb on the Chateau and starts by the left of Fort Knocks. It is a crack that runs at a
20 degree angle, there is good protection but not too sure how much to trust anything on this crag! A
good little route and not a bad warm up.
th
First Ascent; Jon Bell and Steve Giles, 6 February 2011. (6)
Fort Knocks | S | 30-35 feet | B in the Topos
The tallest part of the main island capped by the old fort walls. Follow the flakey crack on the left of a
face capped with a small ramp. Climb the crack to two horizontal cracks that merge with the arête,
follow the corner to the top.
th
First Ascent; Steve Giles and Jen Greening, 24 August 2009. (4)
The BB’s | HVS 4b | 30-35 feet | C in the Topos
5 feet to the right of Fort Knocks is a thin crack that runs the length of the route. Climb this direct then
continue up the arête.
First Ascent; Jon Bell and Lance Barclay, 2011. (6)
The Dark Night | VD | 30-35 feet | D in the Topos
On the left climb through a small bulge in a rightward facing corner. Follow the vertical parallel cracks
to finish on a small slab.
nd
First Ascent; Steve Giles and Dan Herve, 22 September 2009. (4)
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Old Boys Climb Again | D | 30-35 feet | E in the Topos
Left of the black corner (Nala) is an obvious ramp/slab which moves left under an overhang.
nd
First Ascent; Steve Giles and Dan Herve, 22 September 2009. (4)
So Severe No Gear | S | 30-35 feet | F in the Topos
5 feet to the right of Old Boys Climb Again, there is a small rectangular rock pool. Above this there is
a thin crack. Climb this directly onto the slab and continue straight up. On the main slab there is
protection placement for a size 1 nut, but the easier option is to carry on another 10 feet where there
is a fantastic sling placement. From this follow the obvious ridge to the top.
th
First Ascent; Jon Bell and Steve Giles, 6 February 2011. (6)
FFF (Fucked February Fumble) | VD | 30-35 feet | G in the Topos
About 20 feet to the right of So Severe No Gear, is a slab with an obvious groove on the left hand
side. Climb to the overhang at 8 meters then go directly over it.
th
First Ascent; Jon Bell and Steve Giles, 6 February 2011. (6)
Nala | D | 30-35 feet | H in the Topos
Left of the descent and Mofasa is a large black corner.
th
First Ascent; Steve Giles and Jen Greening, 24 August 2009. (4)
Nala Variation | HVD | 30-35 feet | I in the Topos
Follow the centre line of the face to the right to join the black corner.
th
First Ascent; Steve Giles and Jen Greening, 24 August 2009. (4)
* | Sea Spray | VS | 30-35 feet | J in the Topos
15 feet right of Nala there is a V in the crag, just after this is a crack that leads to an overhang at
about 8 meters. Climb the overhang to the top.
First Ascent; Jon Bell and Lance Barclay, 2011. (6)
** | Albecq Dream | HVS | 30-35 feet | K in the Topos
Start as for Sea Spray, but follow a rightward trending crack to a V overhang at 6 meters. Climb this
direct and finish up a left hand corner.
First Ascent; Jon Bell and Lance Barclay, 2011. (6)
Mofasa | HVS 5a | 30-35 feet | L in the Topos
Start beneath the centre of the overhanging face, climb up to the overhang then traverse left across
an overhanging corner, then follow the blunt arête.
th
First Ascent; Steve Giles, 24 August 2009. (4)
Albecq Hell | E2 5b | 30-35 feet | M in the Topos
Start as for Mofasa beneath the centre of the overhanging face. Climb to the overhang then take the
left hand crack to the top.
th
First Ascent; Jon Bell and Steve Giles, 6 February 2011. (6)
Nightmare | E1 | 30-35 feet | N in the Topos
Start as for Mofasa beneath the centre of the overhanging face. Climb to the overhang then take the
right hand crack to the top.
th
First Ascent; Jon Bell and Steve Giles, 6 February 2011. (6)
Simba | S | 30-35 feet | O in the Topos
Start up the final seaward corner.
th
First Ascent; Steve Giles and Jen Greening, 24 August 2009. (4)
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ALBECQ – CHATEAU D’ALBECQ (LION ROCK) – TOPOS
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FORT HOMMET – FAIRY CAVES
1
Deep Water
Solo
N
These climbs are on the stacks just west of the Fairy Caves on the north side of Fort Hommet
headland. Tidal Access; Climbing here may be possible on low neap tides when there is no swell,
however spring tides are probably more preferable.
Three Men in a Boat | D | 20 feet | A in the Topo
This route is on the north face of the southerly stack. Climb the face for the longest route, start on a
ledge just left of a leftward facing corner, continue to climb through a horizontal crack and a series of
ledges to the highest point.
First Ascent; Chris Harvey, second Matt Harvey, January 2008. (3) (4)
A further 5 or 6 new routes are possible on these stacks.
FORT HOMMET – FAIRY CAVES – TOPO
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LIHOU ISLAND
1
1
1
1
Deep Water
Solo
N
Although not recommended for the climbing, a trip to Lihou Island makes a nice day out. Access is
via the causeway which only dries on spring tides. The Guernsey Press lists recommended access
times next to the tide tables. Great care must be taken to avoid getting cut off. Note, the tide is up in
the below picture. Tidal Access; As mentioned previously mentioned, the Guernsey Press lists
recommended access times for the Lihou Island causeway.
The following routes are on the only outcrop on Lihou Island, above the Venus Pool on the northwest
end of the island. At its left hand end the cliff is split at half height by a ledge with an easily
distinguishable wide shattered crack leading from the ledge to the top of the cliff.
Li Ho! |VD | 40 feet | A in the Topo
Start at the left hand end of the cliff above the Venus Pool. Follow the faint shallow crack in the slab
to the ledge, and the wide shattered crack above to the top.
rd
First Ascent; S. Rogers and P. Colburn, 23 March 1989. (6)
Shag | S | 17metres | B in the Topo
Right of Li Ho!, climb the slab and arête/wall on the left of the main face. Follow the break rightward
to the centre of the summit block and finish direct via a niche in the face.
th
First Ascent; S. Giles and J. Greening, 16 October 2011. (6)
The Bathing of Venus | HS 4a | 40 feet | C in the Topo
Takes the obvious line up the centre of the wall. Climb up to gain the corner, over the bulge using
jugs to the right and reach the crack to the left. Follow this and finish up the front of the lichenous
summit block.
th
First Ascent; C. Harvey (Solo), 29 December 1997. (6)
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Funky Monks | D | 13 metres | D in the Topos
Climb easy rock to the right of The Bathing of Venus and gain the obvious rightward facing corner,
move left at the ledge and finish up a short diagonal crack.
th
First Ascent; S. Giles and J. Greening, 16 October 2011. (6)
LIHOU ISLAND – TOPO
GUERNSEY | WEST COAST