MOVING SANDS-EQUILIBRIUM STATE OF CRENULATED COASTS
MOSES
PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012
Background and rationale
The knowledge on coastal processes is
not only of basic and practical
importance, for instance in engineering
applications but also of socioeconomic relevance. In a crenulated
coastline with beaches and headlands,
the balance between the incoming
and the lost sediment determines the
beach stability that ranges between
dynamic equilibrium to unstable.
Headlands are natural barriers to the
alongshore drift and therefore reduce
the amount of sediments incoming
from the updrift adjacent beaches.
Project funded by the Portuguese
Foundation for Science and
Technology (FCT)
Credits: Sónia Oliveira
Beach artificial feeding
MOVING SANDS-EQUILIBRIUM STATE OF CRENULATED COASTS
MOSES
PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012
Team
Project funded by the Portuguese
Foundation for Science and
Technology (FCT)
Centro de Investigação Marinha e Ambiental CIMA
Delminda Moura (Investigadora Responsável)
Carlos Loureiro
Cristina Veiga-Pires
Centro de Investigação Tecnológica da
João Horta
Universidade do Algarve (CINTAL)
Óscar Ferreira
Rita Carrasco
António Silva
Danny Brito
Selma Gabriel
Sónia Oliveira
Instituto Don Luís (IDL)
Cristina Lira
Mónica Ribeiro
Ivana Bosnic
MOVING SANDS-EQUILIBRIUM STATE OF CRENULATED COASTS
MOSES
PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012
Objectives
Project funded by the Portuguese
Foundation for Science and
Technology (FCT)
Objective 1. To combine acoustic
technique with marked sands and
digital image processing in order to
quantify the volume of sand moving
alongshore
Credits: Delminda Moura
Building structure to deploy the acoustic
equipment at 8 m of water depth
MOVING SANDS-EQUILIBRIUM STATE OF CRENULATED COASTS
MOSES
PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012
Preparation of the 1st field campaign
Project funded by the Portuguese
Foundation for Science and
Technology (FCT)
(A)
(C)
(B)
Programing the equipment location in
the nearshore (A), the sampling network
(B) and the profiles for topographic
survey (C). Credits: João Horta
MOVING SANDS-EQUILIBRIUM STATE OF CRENULATED COASTS
MOSES
PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012
Preparation of the 1st field campaign
22 March 2014
Project funded by the Portuguese
Foundation for Science and
Technology (FCT)
marking the sands with fluorescent dye
marked sand
Credits: Delminda Moura
Credits: Delminda Moura
Credits: Delminda Moura
The marking sand team
Sand collected in the study site
Credits: Delminda Moura
Sand prior being marked
MOVING SANDS-EQUILIBRIUM STATE OF CRENULATED COASTS
MOSES
PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012
Campaign implementation
Project funded by the Portuguese
Foundation for Science and
Technology (FCT)
25 March 2014
Carrying the equipment at
the University and arrival at
the piers in Portimão.
Credits: Delminda Moura
MOVING SANDS-EQUILIBRIUM STATE OF CRENULATED COASTS
MOSES
PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012
Campaign implementation
Project funded by the Portuguese
Foundation for Science and
Technology (FCT)
25 March 2014
Carrying the equipment at
the University and arrival at
the piers in Portimão.
Credits: Delminda Moura
MOVING SANDS-EQUILIBRIUM STATE OF CRENULATED COASTS
MOSES
PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012
Campaign implementation
Project funded by the Portuguese
Foundation for Science and
Technology (FCT)
25 March 2014
Deployment of the Acoustic Backscatter Sensor and Current Profiler off Galé shore.
Credits: Delminda Moura
MOVING SANDS-EQUILIBRIUM STATE OF CRENULATED COASTS
MOSES
PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012
Campaign implementation
Project funded by the Portuguese
Foundation for Science and
Technology (FCT)
25 March- 03 April 2014
Credits: Delminda Moura
Credits: Delminda Moura
Programming the
electromagnetic current meter
and the pressure transducers to
acquire current and wave data
Marked sand being carried by
the waves
Credits: Delminda Moura
Marked sand and equipment on the beach face
MOVING SANDS-EQUILIBRIUM STATE OF CRENULATED COASTS
MOSES
PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012
Project funded by the Portuguese
Foundation for Science and
Technology (FCT)
Campaign implementation
25 March- 03 April 2014
(E)
(A)
(C)
(B)
(D)
Wave data acquisition (A),
taking photos of the sand (B),
Sampling the sand (C) and (D),
topographic survey (E). Credits:
Delminda Moura
MOVING SANDS-EQUILIBRIUM STATE OF CRENULATED COASTS
MOSES
PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012
Post campaign
Project funded by the Portuguese
Foundation for Science and
Technology (FCT)
Laboratory work
Credits: Sónia Oliveira
Credits: Sónia Oliveira
Sónia Oliveira account the marked
grains using black light
MOVING SANDS-EQUILIBRIUM STATE OF CRENULATED COASTS
MOSES
PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012
Post campaign
Project funded by the Portuguese
Foundation for Science and
Technology (FCT)
Data processing
Credits: Sónia Oliveira
Credits: Sónia Oliveira
Tracking the sand transport using the marked grains
Distribution of the grain size on the beach face
MOVING SANDS-EQUILIBRIUM STATE OF CRENULATED COASTS
MOSES
PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012
Post campaign
Project funded by the Portuguese
Foundation for Science and
Technology (FCT)
Data processing
Modelling waves approaching the coast. Credits: João Horta
MOVING SANDS-EQUILIBRIUM STATE OF CRENULATED COASTS
MOSES
PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012
Project funded by the Portuguese
Foundation for Science and
Technology (FCT)
Objective 2. The field data will be used
to produce a GIS tool allowing to
predict changes in the beaches
equilibrium induced by several wave
climate conditions
The beach morphology after a strong
wave attack. Credits: João Horta
MOVING SANDS-EQUILIBRIUM STATE OF CRENULATED COASTS
MOSES
PTDC/GEO-GEO/3981/2012
Forthcoming campaign
03 – 10 November, 2014
Project funded by the Portuguese
Foundation for Science and
Technology (FCT)
Results dissemination until now
Book chapter
- Aceite- D. Moura, A. Gomes., J. Horta. Iberian Atlantic Margin. In: N. Flemming, J. Harff, & D. Moura (eds).
Quaternary Palaeoenviroments, Willey-Blackwell (Publisher).
Journal of international circulation
- Horta, J., Pacheco, A., Moura, D., Ferreira, Ó., 2014. Can recreational Echosounder-Chartplotter systems be
used to perform accurate nearshore bathymetric surveys? Ocean Dynamics, doi: 10.1007/s10236-014-0773-y
- Horta, J., Moura, D., Gabriel, S., Ferreira, O. (2013). Measurement of pocket beach morphology using
geographic information technology: the MAPBeach toolbox. Journal of Coastal Research, SI 65, 1397-1402.
doi: 10.2112/SI65-236.1
- Infantini, L., Bicho, N., Moura, D., 2014. Underwater prehistoric landscape: Preliminary results of Armação de
Pêra Bay. In: A. Figueiredo, F. Calippo, G. Rambelli (eds.), Underwater Archaeology, Coastal and Lakeside.
Proceedings of the XVI world Congress. International Union of Prehistoric and Protohistoric Sciences, Vol. 5,
Florianópolis (Brasil), 4-10 September 2011, Archaeopress (Publ.), ISBN 978 1 4073 1268 2, Oxford, pp.1-11.
Conference proceedings
Oliveira, S., Boski, T., Moura, D., Sousa, C., Gomes, C., Pereira, L., 2013. Interactive multimedia application of Ria
Formosa (Portugal) for educational purposes (FORDID). In: CONFIA: 2nd International Conference on Illustration
& Animation, December 2013, pp. 59-66, ISBN: 978-989-98241-6-4, Porto.