2. Literature review This chapter critically reviews the literature on horizontal and vertical alliances. Horizontal alliances are collaborations between competitors and vertical alliances are collaborations with suppliers or customers. This chapter also focuses on sustainability as well as sustainability issues within the supply chain in the apparel industry. An alliance is a lasting relationship among companies that have complementary power and decide to work together in a mutual or non-mutual relationship to achieve with a goal that none of them could realize on its own (Gomes-Casseres, 1996). These alliances are formed based on functional lines like support, marketing, or distribution. Alliances enable firms to reduce the risks associated with their market, technology, or competitive environments. There are two types of alliances: horizontal and vertical. These may be in the form of teaming agreements, general and limited partnerships, license agreements, or joint ventures(Gomes-Casseres, 1996). 2.1. Vertical and horizontal alliances Present day alliances allow companies to remain independent from their alliance partners(Yoshino, 1995). In setting up an alliance, there are common objectives, but additionally each firm comes up with its own objectives. Performance control and benefits from the given processes have to be shared among all alliance stakeholders. Trade collaboration in vital strategic processes is common among stakeholders in firms. The stakeholders’ firms are teaming up with each other based on the central abilities of each organization and what each organization can in turn offers the other(Cohen et al., 2002). Arrangements of this kind are usually enacted between competing firms, an idea that was thought unrealizable some years back, as well as between industries from different fields (Agrawal and Henderson, 2002). Such alliances are creating two-sided partnershipthat involves collaboration across institutionsand collaborative links through joint training managements, consultant and researchon both domestic and global levels. This makes it complex to control the flow of information to and from a firm’s boundaries (Reuer, 2004). Business entities can engage in different collaborative relationships or alliances. Strategic alliances enable buying and supplying firms to combine their individual strengths and work together to reduce non-value-adding activities and facilitate improved performance (Whipple, 2000). Manufacturers, customers, and competitors can form these collaborations, which can be vertical or horizontal alliances. Vertical alliances are a coalition between a company and its distributors or suppliers (Cavusgil et al., 2015). These alliances strengthen the relationship between a company and its suppliers via the exchange of technical expertise as well as commercial knowledge. They expand a company’s network as well as benefit its clients by providing cheap prices (Ratchford, 2010). Horizontal alliances are enacted between firms operating within a similar industry (Hill, 1998, p.286). The company cooperates with competitor firms to better its position against its other competitors. Horizontal alliances seem to discourage competition, and thus anti-trust regulationscould be consideredby the competing firms in order to have a principle on which they can build their collaboration (Hill, 2014). It is a policy to sell products or services in several markets freely and prevents unlawful restraints, price – fixing and monopolies. As its main goal is to protect the publics welfare (Blair,1993). A horizontal alliance takes place when competitors collaborate and share private information or resources to create new product innovations or to solve issues that are outside their control, e.g., changes in legislation (Simatupang, 2002; Tether, 2002). As noted above, the horizontal and vertical alliances show important differences in the reasons for collaboration.However, the majority of the existing literature has focused on examining vertical alliances rather than examining their differences from the horizontal alliances (Rindfleisch, 2000). This tendency is due to most scholars not havingconsidered that firms can benefit from competing and cooperating at the same time as these factors are completely different and contradictory from one another(Bengtsson, 2000). The little research on horizontal alliances with competitors is primarily centered on hightech industries (Stuart T. E., 2000; Lerner, 1998; Oum, 2004) and this suggests that other industries, such as the apparel industry, have not been studied yet. Furthermore, research on supply-chain collaboration is highlighted as the joint effort of two firms that try to deliver value for their end customers. This can be either through horizontal or vertical alliances; however, the implications of horizontal alliances with regard to supply-chains have not been studied (Simatupang, 2002). 2.2. Benefits and risks of horizontal alliances Firms engage in strategic alliances because they want to attain the benefits that they could not get on their own. The literature has put forward that firms can get various benefits from collaborating with each other (e.g. sharing knowledge and commercial resources) (Handfield & Nichols, 2002).). One of the main reasons why firms cooperate is because they can create value by decreasing transaction costs, as in the case of reduction of search and information costs. Furthermore, entering a strategic alliance creates the opportunity to gain access to information and resources regardingcommon needs, which help them to gain a sustainable competitive advantage(Alvarado, 1999). Firms can, for example, share particular tacit knowledge or give access to superior technology and high levels of R&D. In addition, collaborating strengthens the position of the firms by increasing their competitive advantage (Zineldin, 2004). Collaborative relationships also contribute to a better social status by enhancing firms’ reputation and legitimacy, as firms are expected to receive more social support from other firms that notice the collaboration Stuart T. H., 1999; Human, 2000; Podolny, 2001). Although collaboration has many advantages, there are burdens and conflicts in collaborative relationships. These consist of the following: 1. Increase of dissemination risk (Agarwal, 1992). Dissemination risk refers to the threat that arises when a firm shares its key information with other collaborating firms and then the shared information gets used for other purposes than initially intended (Hill, 1988). 2. Power and dependency, i.e., one partner can force the other to act in a way that is in its best interest, due to its political, financial, technical, or emotional power. In addition, if firms are too dependent on other firms, it can increase their vulnerability. For instance, by letting the other firm decide upon a strategy that might not fit well within its own company. (Zineldin, 2004). 3. The uncertainty that arises due to various potential risks in, e.g., working with foreign suppliers, agents, or firms, which make it more difficult to anticipate incidents and assess the partners’ commitment. These risks can contribute significantly to the failure of an alliance. Theycan have a negative effect on mutual dependence that helps the firms to rely in each other in sharing equipment, finances information and more, which can lead to negative outcome of an alliance (Heizer, 2014).Furthermore, firms may tend to behave more opportunistically, which also increases the uncertainty (Williamson, 1985). In order for firms to have a good and stable relationship, trusting each other is essential. “Trust forms an important basis upon which to expect the relationship to continue well into the future” (Ganesan, 1994). Whereas, high mutual dependence does not only create incentives for the collaborators, it also offers a significant opportunity for negotiations (Casciaro, 2005). Furthermore, dependency is related to trust. If firms trust each other, they will be more likely have a greater interdependence (Ganesan, 1994). 4. Apart from trust and mutual dependency, clashing cultures is another factor that might cause the failure of a strategic alliance. This can cause friction in the collaboration as a firms’ decision-making is affected by, e.g., language barriers, work ethics, personality traits, or other values (Hofstede, 2010). 5. Another additional reason that is associated with the underperformance and failure of alliances is the relational risk. It is concerned with the probability that partner firms may lack commitment to the alliance and that their possible opportunistic behavior could undermine the prospects of an alliance, as well as the risk of creating a future local or even global competitor. For example, one partner might be using the alliance to test a market and prepare the launch of a solely owned subsidiary by, e.g., product copying (Elmuti, 2001). 2.3. Key success factors for effective collaboration Several types of research have highlightedthe elements of successful collaborations. As mentioned earlier, the collaboration will most likely fail if there is no mutual dependency and trust. Another important influence in collaboration is power. Power refers to the ability of one individual or group to control or influence the behavior of another (Hunt and Nevin, 1974). Power in a collaborative relationship helps to reduce the uncertainty related to the future behavior of social and economic indicators (Smith & Cockburn, 2013).). The collaborating firms can harness their individual powers to attract customers and to seek inspirations. Power and trust are also similar because they complement each other. The trust stands for the willingness of one firm to have confidence in another, and the power supports that confidence by influencing the other in a positive way. However, at the same time, they can be opposites, in the sense that trust is based on teamwork and reciprocity, whereas power tends to be more connectedwith self-serving and opportunistic behavior (Ganesan, 1994). There are many factors that can lead to horizontal alliance effectiveness. The basic features are alliance-planning processes, partner commitment, the extent of collaboration, and finally dependence relationships and power (Cravens, 1993). Dependence and powerof alliance partners Within horizontal alliances, it is critical that the dependence and powerof alliance partners be evenly divided. Most alliances in which financial contributions and benefits are one-sided do not seem to be successful. The deficiency of complementary profits seems to be the main factor that leads to failures in horizontal alliances. The chances of an alliance success are limited in a situation where only some of the partners’ central businesses are involved. Therefore, in order to realize success,it is criticalthat all partners in the alliance make contributions using their main businesses (Anderson, 1990). Partners’ commitment Partners’ commitment to an alliance has a huge impact with regards to its success. Lack of interest in long-term allegiance by any member of the alliance brings about some degree of ineffectiveness. The moment partners use the right resources and personnel and provide priorities to the alliance at hand, they exhibit their allegiance to the entire alliance(Child, 2005). Commitment indications include exclusive agreements, alliance firms’ investments, and the absence of conflict between firms. Alliance planning processes Nevin(Nevin, 2012) stresses the importance of proper planning of all the activities that occur early on within the alliance. He further states that this is a major aspect of the success of horizontal alliances. Many researchers concur that the crucial components in planning an alliance are deciding on the conduct of the relationship management and creating specific objectives. When an alliance ventures into a market in which one stakeholder is already active, it is easier and cheaperfor it to outline its goals as the active stakeholder have already performed some market research. Nevin(Nevin, 2012) adds that the more particular and realistic the goals of the alliance, the higher the probability of success. When enough planning exists prior to establishing an alliance, hiccups and problems can be detected earlier and resolved. Resolving conflicts in horizontal alliances formed between competitors appears more complex than in vertical alliances. A failure toagree on clear decision-making responsibilities is a possible cause of ineffectiveness. Extent of collaboration Collaboration is possibly the most crucial aspect in horizontal alliances. It is a willingness to come together and realize objectives. Alliances proceed far beyond the basics and guidelines provided by transaction cost economics. Motivations like equitable results as well as trust and character are neglected in establishing governance structures through transaction cost economics (Buffington, 1991). Horizontal alliances are quite sophisticated, as opposed to transactional relationships between firms that are guided by the search for the cheapest way to realize efficiency in the transaction. Collaboration could be perceived as a vital and feasible alliance (Gomes-Casseres, 1996). Understanding the vitality of collaboration can assist alliance partners in overcoming uncertainty, solving major conflicts, and realizing positive and profitable results within a longer period. Collaboration between firms also helps to reduce inter-industrial rivalry and improves the synergistic benefits (Farag, 2009), (Ireland, Hoskisson, & Hitt, 2012). Characteristics and horizontal alliances According to Birley (1985), Stuart (Stuart T. H., 1999), and Jack (Jack, 2002), who are accredited for a research on networks, alliances, and entrepreneurship, states that firms’ characteristics are key for successful collaborative relationships. These characteristics can be divided into three factors, which are scope, organizational, and social. These factors are equally dependent on one another. At the same time, each factor is significantly different in terms of organizational structure, market focus, strategy, and resource gains between small, medium and large firma (Mintzberg, 1979). In this research, small firms have less than 100 employees, medium firms have less than 400 employee but more than 100, and large ones have more than 400 employees) . Scope factors can include the size of the firm, volume of activity, age of the firm, location of the firm, and the industry the firm operates in. Scope factors determine the degree to which firms can form business relationships, and how dependent they are on these collaborations. Organizational factors include the extent to which a firm’s internal structure is formalized, what system it uses for control, reporting, etc. Social factors comprise the elements that are related to the firm’s reputation, status, legitimacy, performance, and social influence. Firm size Large firms have high visibility compared to small firms. As such, in an alliance between large firms and small firms the large firms can penetrate the markets enabling the flexible and quick to act small firms to execute the documented plans of action. Further still, the wide pool of resources of the large companies make it easy for the small firms to exercise their untapped skills and potential. Small firms have a lot of unused talent due to the limitation of resources(Gattorna, 1998). On the other hand, the large firms are at their peak and stagnate at optimum levels of performance. Therefore, the horizontal collaboration of different size companies leads to improved levels of performance. The adaptability of the small firms helps them take advantage of their quick and easy organizational techniques to reach maximum utilization of technological, financial, and even scientific resources for excellence (Brown, 2004). The number of employees increases when companies come together, creating a larger pool of ideas(Gattorna, 1998). As such, the continued interaction of the employees sparks the exchange of ideas. Internal competition becomes prevalent. All this triggers improvement of performance, and brilliant ideas are hatched that foster growth of not only the companies but also the employees. Firm location The locations of firms are a crucial characteristic in forward development. The different collaborating companies might be located near markets of interest where demand is outweighing supply. As such, collaboration makes it easier to meet the demand in the market through improved production that in turn accelerates supply. Road networks, nearness to raw materials, and favorable economic environments are also elements affiliated with the location of firms (In Ishikawa, 2015). Since it is sometimes difficult for a single company to have access in its location to all these advantages, companies with different strongholds can work together and emerge stronger. Such a case can be witnessed through the collaboration of a company in a location covered by a good road network with one that is near raw materials (In Ishikawa, 2015). This means the two can swiftly access raw materials and transport finished products. 2.4. Apparel firms and horizontal alliances Apparel firms refers to a group comprising manufacturers, brands, government, nongovernmental organizations, retailers, and professionals that represent a huge part of the world’s footwear and apparel market. Their vision is to reduce the risks of social and environmental issues concerning global products. The apparel firms ensure that they capture the best sources of subsidized raw materials. Governments and NGO’swill always try to encourage business to use resources effectively as well as to manage the environment impacts(Savitz& Weber, 2006). Following this, they may fund programmes that help business achieve its goals,and use their purchasing power to support apparel firms produce more sustainable products(Savitz& Weber, 2006). Therefore, the apparel firms get incentives through the governments and NGO’sthat cut down their operation costs as well as improving sustainability.Sustainability features social, environmental, and economic aspects. Using the three aspects helps formulate a plan of action that will propagate the forward development of collaboration. The first element of the plan of action is of the social aspect, which relates to the life values and beliefs of the specific target groups (Dagnino, 2012). The organizations are collectively able to understand new life values and beliefs of a certain population. This can be achieved through collaborationbetween a new company and a dominant company in the region of interest. The environmental aspect aims to ensure that the operations of the companies are not tampering with the natural ecosystem, such asthe rivers and vegetation. Traditionally, companies were known to drain their waste into rivers, which would kill aquatic life as well as contaminatenearby communities’ water sources. It is important to be aware and observant of how a company coexists with the natural environment. Finally, yet no less important to sustainability, is the economic aspect. The markets should be receptive of the products given to them, which should also be reasonably priced. The intended meaning of “reasonably” is to formulate competitive prices that will also keep the company’s business afloat. The economic strength and classes of the population are paramount in consideringthe best pricing and the quality of the products (Gratton, 2007). Figure 1: The Triple Bottom Line (Dagnino, 2012) The sources of information in this literature review are insightful and credible. Figure 1shows that there is much that can be achieved through horizontal alliances. These alliances can demonstrate their impact in three levels along with the triple bottom line (Savitz, 2006). The first one that the collaboration can have is internal impact like the creation of new jobs that never existed in individual firms. This can bring more expertise to the alliance (Savitz, 2006).Secondly; the firms can combine powers to influence their operation model. The firms get the ability to design their operational model to fulfill deliberate and specific kinds of impacts. This is common when firms harness collaborative models in order to ensure that their facilities serve a broader range customer’s need more closely and to use their assets more efficiently.They can thus produce more appealing product to their customer, which enhance their reputation and ultimately more customers(Savitz, 2006). Finally, the horizontal alliance can also have certain benefits to people, economies, and environment that are even outside their core business. More employment means better economy andbetter production methods implies less emission to the environment and a better; both resulting to happy society (Savitz, 2006). Therefore, the firmscan help each other to meet their needs easily. The collaboration is rewarding and with sound leadership, the best results can be achieved. Figure 2: The conceptual model for characteristics of firms (Madlberger, 2009) The conceptual model above illustrates the chosen characteristics of firms based on the literature and are all derived from the dataset. The theory on characteristics and horizontal alliances has indicated that the characteristics of firms are highly relevant to achieving for durable collaborations. Based on the scope factors a selection has been made of important potential characteristics. These include firm size, HQ location, the number of employees, the firms’ production countries, and the firms’ industry. These characteristics determine the degree to which firms can form business relationships and how dependent they are on these collaborations(Madlberger, 2009). This sustainability ranking is a benchmarking score that rates firms on how well they have implemented the ‘Code of Labor Practices’ (Appendix 2). The FWF member firms are ranked according to the following three categories:leader, good, and needsimprovement(Appendix 3). 1. Leaders are firms that are doing exceptionally well and are operating at an advanced level. 2. Firms that are categorized‘good’ are making serious effort to implement the Code of Labor Practices; firms that operate above average. 3. A Firm that ‘needs improvement’ is one that has encountered unexpected problems or is unwilling to seriously implement the Code of Labor Practices Added References Ireland, R. D., Hoskisson, R. E., & Hitt, M. A. (2012). Understanding business strategy: Concepts plus. Mason, OH: South-Western Cengage Learning. Hill, C. W. L., & Jones, G. R. (1998). Strategic management theory: An integrated approach. Boston, MA: Houghton Mifflin. Handfield, R. B., & Nichols, E. L. (2002). Supply chain redesign: Transforming supply chains into integrated value systems. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Financial Times Prentice Hall. Smith, P. A. C., & Cockburn, T. (2013). Dynamic leadership models for global business: Enhancing digitally connected environments. Hershey, PA: Business Science Reference. Gattorna, J. (1998). Strategic supply chain alignment: Best practice in supply chain management. Aldershot, Hampshire, England: Gower. In Ishikawa, T. (2015). Firms' location selections and regional policy in the global economy.
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