Airblade assembly instructions.
The Airblade has been developed from the Komet . I needed an easy to
launch model that was fast and could utilize the Komet wing.
You can buy just a fuselage for your old Komet wings .
The Mk1 used a standard wing but the MK2 has a modified wing which
has been extended and has leading edge root extensions. It has also been
moved back by 20mm.
The elevons are pre hinged in the mould with a full span nylon hinge. The
hinge is very strong.
The fuselage is an epoxy resin and glassfibre moulding . It has been
prepainted in the mould.
The wings are very rigid and strong but they damage easily if you put
them down onto sharp objects so care needs to be taken when handling
the wings especially on the work bench.
Super glue can be used as can epoxy to fasten things inside the body and
the wings. Large amonts of superglue heat up and can damage or distort
the glassfibre so care is needed there.
The wing foam is ok with superglue
Fitting the motor.
You need a motor with a rear mounting and of the “X’ style.
This is simply screwed onto the ply motor mounting that is glued in the
rear of the fuselage with 4 screws.
You may need to file some of the wood away if your motor is larger than
the motor aperture. Photo shows where the mount has been filed away to
allow for the wiring on the AXI motor.
Before you finally fit the motor you should connect the Speed controller
making sure the motor turns the correct way.
Slide the ESC through the motor mount and rear bulkhead and take the
wiring through to the canopy area.
Make sure the motor wires aren’t touching the rotating motor bell and if
you feel they are a bit close then file away the bulkhead under the tail fin
to let the wires drop down a bit.
The ESC sits at the back of the canopy hatch.
The RX sits at the opposite side. Keep the aerials away from the ESC
unlike the photo. Well it’s not finished..
Fitting the servos.
Make a left and right servo mount by cutting out the correct hole to suit
your servo. Make sure you can remove the servo from the mount easily
before glueing into the wing so not too tight a fit in the ply mount.
The piece of ply that is removed can cut in two and then glued to the back
of the mount to act as a doubler for the two screws or used for servos of a
different size.
You can mount the servo high or low in the wing by turning the mount
over. I opted for the way shown to keep the servo arm out of the airflow.
I also mounted the servos and the linkage in line with the wing root but
you can mount it at 90degrees to the hinge line which gives a better
geometrical movement with possibly a little more drag?
It’s a good idea if you wax the servo before fitting as it stops epoxy
sticking to it.
Screw the servo to the plate making sure the arm is pointing at right
angles to the incoming wire link to the elevon..
The whole servo and the plate are then slid into the servo aperture.
I just put some tape on the servo door to hold it closed.
2 small balsa plates can be glued to the inside of the door aperture to stop
the door closing too far.
The elevon horn needs a 3mm hole all the way through both skins and
inline with the servo arm.
Please be aware that the bottom elevon cut is 5mm further forwards than
the top hinge line so it is better to drill the 3mm hole from the top of the
wing . Drill it 6mm back from the hinge line.
The wire link needs a keeper to the horn. Shown during assembly only.
You simply glue the 3mm threaded rod in place making sure it is all the
way through and there is 1 thread showing above the top skin.
Glue this in place. You can see the horn if you look down the end of the
elevon.
The servo wires go through the hole in the wing root and the
corresponding hole in the fuselage. Make sure there are no sharp edges
which could fray the wiring.
The elevons should be set “up” by 2mm or the thickness of the
trailing edge. This is the neutral position.
When viewed from the back, “left aileron” is when the left side goes up
and the right goes down
“Up elevator is when both go up together.
It is important that both surfaces move equally when the elevator control
is used so you can tape a piece of wood to each moving surface and check
by eye for equal movement. Adjust on your TX as necessary.
The above photo shows 2 pieces of wood taped to the elevons so equal
movement can be checked easily by eye.
The above photo shows the amount of “up” needed for neutral. This
varies slightly with differing CG positions. Good to get this right for that
first flight.
Surface throws.
This is very important so pay some attention to getting this right. These
throws may not suit everyone but this is what I have been using.
Low rate aileron. 6mm each way.
way.
Low rate elevator. 6mm each way.
12mm down.
High rate 10mm each
High rate 10mm up
Getting the elevators moving the same amount is very important as some
roll will be induced if they are not the same which makes it difficult to fly
well.
Use low aileron and elevator rate for the first flight.
Lipo fitting
This is fitted using Velcro and a Velcro strap Very important to use the
strap as well to avoid embarrassing battery loss during flight.
Move the lipo around to get the correct GC. Check every flight as lipo
weights vary.
Canopy.
This is pre fitted using 4 magnets at the rear and a peg at the front.
Just pull the rear up and slide backwards to take off.
CG. Centre of gravity.
This is easily checked using the two dimples on the underside of the
wing. These are placed 14.5cm from the LE and 16cm from the TE.
Check every flight as lipos are not always the same weight.
The lipo can be moved around to obtain this.
Flying.
1 Make sure the prop is fitted the correct way round and is rotating in the
correct direction.
2 Check the CG.
3 Check the controls are working correctly and in the right direction and
use the low rate for the first flight..
(So many times I help people with new models and the surfaces are going
in the wrong direction and with too much movement.)
I check mine every flight even if I have just landed it.
4 Run the motor at full throttle.
5 Do a range test on the radio.
Launching can be done underarm and the model is assisted into a 45
degree climb at full throttle.
Too much effort usually results in the helper throwing it to the left with
disastrous results. A straight push from knee height and up at around 45
degrees is perfect.
An overarm launch is also ok and is better with some headwind assistance
or a bit of a run.
The model wants to rotate left and drop it’s nose slightly till the speed
builds up and the elevons start working so a slightly upward throw is
required and a little to the right is also ok..
I always use high rate for the take off and flick to low aileron as it gets
going but high rate aileron is a bit quick so choose your style.
It picks up speed quite quickly so as soon as it’s built up some speed
throttle back to around ¼ throttle position and get it flying straight and
level and trim it out.
Do a few circuits at low throttle to get used to it. Take it up high and glide
it around.
It glides very well but needs some Up to hold a level glide.
It could maybe thermal if you found a good one and it should slope soar
quite well.
Loops are easy as are rolls. Outside loops (bunts) need a bit more down
hence the 12mm down elevator travel.
Landings are easy enough but keep a little power on till it is lined up with
the runway as a tight turn will slow it up very quickly.
It glides a long way so be prepared for that.
Hold it off from the ground as long as possible as a high speed
touchdown on the grass can result in a cartwheel. Don’t ask me how I
know.
Prop breakage doesn’t seem to be a problem.
Full power dives are no problem and vertical dives with the power off
and the motor brake on makes a very nice whistle especially inverted.
Using a decent radio and good servos makes the flying so much better.
Cheap crappy servos don’t centre very well and it could be constantly
needing to be trimmed out so fit digitals if possible.
Some exponential on the ailerons is desirable as it softens the centre
position somewhat.
Various motors have been tried and it would seem to fly on almost
anything.
I really enjoy flying the Airblade and I hope you have as much fun as I
am having with mine.
Set up and flying tips.
Some customers are changing the 3mm steel control horns for their own
choice. This is ok but the steel ones are fitted for a reason.
Many computer radios can be tweaked to set up the elevon movement to
get an exact match but many people fly with more modest transmitters.
I have had a few customers tell me the models rolls when pulling out of a
shallow dive. This is easy to correct.
Take the model high and shut the power off. Glide the model for a while.
You will need to hold some “up” elevator in order to achieve level flight.
You may notice that even though it was trimmed to fly straight and level
it rolls a little during the glide. This is because the elevons are not
working in an identical way.
If the model turns left slightly during the glide then shorten the left
elevon horn by one or two turns. This makes the elevon move a little
more and will make it fly without turning during the glide.
Then fly along with some power and pull a loop. If one wing drops a bit
then this is a weight issue and you can add a little weight to the high wing
tip as the heavier wing will drop during a high G turn.
I also usually land with high rate elevator as you can hold it off a bit more
and land slower.
Try not to put it down too quickly onto the ground, hold it off till it settles
down slowly. It can cartwheel if it touches too quickly.
I am usually on High rate on both surfaces for a hand launch as it enables
you to get out of a bad launch situation more easily.
I need to then click to low rate before attempting any high speed passes.
Just received my on board speed sensor so I will do some tests and pass
on the results. Props, lipos etc.
Jim Fox