Step-by-Step Cables
KnittingParadise.com Workshop No. 18
Teacher: StitchDesigner (Carla)
Hi, all! First, I apologize for not having these first 2 sections online at ohdark-hundred this morning. I
was having trouble with my PDF program.
I’m StitchDesigner and I’ll start by telling you a little of my knitting history. I started knitting at about
12 years of age. That was 49 years ago. The only instructions from real people I have received (I am
self-taught) were my Italian Grandmother who corrected my incorrect knit stitches and the LYS owner
I worked for who showed me the Long-Tailed German Twisted CastOn. My first garment was a
mohair cardigan for myself. They were the rage back then. It had pockets and cables. It turned out
very well. My first other type of item was a chevron and lace afghan for my Mother. I never start with
the simple stuff. Just me, I love a challenge. I do not believe in doing the same thing over and over.
My skills must progress. In the ‘90’s I worked in an LYS in Northern Virginia. There I helped run the
shop and teach. My teaching included knitting, crochet, and counted cross-stitch, my specialty. So,
let’s get to the Cables.
KNITTED CABLES
Cables are a way to manipulate knitted stitches to make sometimes very intricate designs. The most
famous type of cable knitting is probably the Aran sweaters of Ireland. They are not difficult. We will
progress from the simplest cables to a cable that looks like a chain. Any size yarn can be used for
cables, from lace weight up. Thus, any size of needles may also be used to do the basic knitting.
You will need a special, inexpensive tool for cables. It’s called a cable needle and comes in several
flavors.
The top one is the Gull Wing or Scoop type. Below it are two variations of the “J” type. There are also
wooden ones that have groves in them. The groves hold the stitches in place.
Step-by-Step Cables – Workshop No. 18
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All come in a variety of sizes. Pick a size slightly smaller around than the needles you are knitting
with.
Please start with a light colored yarn that is solid in color or a slight tonal. The rule applies: One can
be intricate, the pattern or the yarn, but not both.
Cables are a very easy way to add some excitement to a plain, vanilla sweater. Just add cables to the
pattern. There is one thing you must be aware of, however: Cables will throw off your gauge. I’ll
explain how to compensate a little later. Now, let’s take a look at a cable.
Cables are twists in the knitting that involve 2 or more stitches. There is such an animal as a mock
cable, but I’ll not discuss them here.
When adding cables to a plain garment, one must remember than the cables tend to pull the stitches
toward the center of the work. If only 1 cable column is added down the middle of something loose, or
a scarf or shawl, this may not make much difference. For most applications you must add 2 stitches
to the cast on for every cable column added. For this workshop, you need to add 4 stitches for the
first Basic Cable block. For the Celtic Trellis, you need to add at least 12 stitches because there are
6 cable columns. (That’s why it draws up more.)
Ribbing is easy. Do whatever ribbing you want. If you need more stitches, you can add stitches on
the increase row. Most pullovers and cardigans have one. If the plain pattern calls for 88 stitches for
the cast on and it says to increase 10 stitches evenly, do it as follows:
Work the ribbing from the pattern over the 88 stitches. Then add the “called for
number of stitches” plus the necessary number for the cables. It will mean easing
the stitches into the collar and at the shoulders. It does take adjustment to the
pattern, but all on the body, not the underarms. If you add to sleeves, it will mean
easing at the sleeve-hole.
The following is the basic cable. I apologize for the quality, I don’t have a camera, these are scanned.
Step-by-Step Cables – Workshop No. 18
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You can readily see the way the cable has pulled the work to the center. Did you also notice I forgot
to add the top border of Garter Stitching?
This is a very simple Aran cable including reverse stockinette and seed (moss in UK) stitching.
Cables are usually set in reverse stockinette to make the cables really pop.
These blocks may be worked on any weight yarn, please use an appropriately sized needle, using
any smooth yarn. I do not recommend eyelash, the cables will just get lost. Mohair is OK for really
large cables. My first garment was a mohair sweater way back in the ‘60’s.
I will show you successively difficult blocks of cables. Each would be suitable for a dishcloth or afghan
square. I chose blocks because they work up quickly. I’m not going to discuss how to put them
together. That’s up to you. If you wish to do a cable stitch border around an afghan, just ask a
question, I’ll get back to you.
All squares have a Cast-On of 36 stitches. I did this so the squares would be easier to sew together.
All squares also have a Garter Stitch border.
The stitches you need to know for all of the squares are:
Knit
Purl
Cast-On
Cast-Off (Bind-Off in UK)
No increases or decreases.
I will show you written and chart instructions so you can learn how to read charts at the same time.
Cable patterns usually, though not always, start and end in the smooth part of the cable. The twist is
in the middle of the pattern repeat. I suggest strongly that you use a lifeline (at the end of each
vertical repeat) and some way of tracking where in the pattern you are. Cross-hatches on paper are a
cheap and good way to do that.
If you are going to make dish/washcloths, the crochet cast on looks identical to the standard cast off.
Use a crochet hook larger than you will be knitting with. Contact me and I can explain.
Remember, there are instructions here as to how to contact me with questions.
Let’s get started.
Instructions for all three cable patterns follow.
Step-by-Step Cables – Workshop No. 18
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Basic Cables
Abbreviations:
CO
K
P
BO
RS
Cast On
Knit
Purl
Bind Off or Cast Off
Right Side
C6F
Slip the next 3 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the front of
your work. The yarn must be behind the work. Knit the next 3 stitches. You want the 1st
stitch to be a little snug. Now, using the cable needle, and making sure it has not twisted, K
those 3 stitches. Make sure the last stitch is snug.
C6B
Slip the next 3 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the back of
the work. The yarn should be between it and the working needles. Knit the next 3 stitches,
make sure the 1st stitch is snug. Knit the 3 off of the cable needle, making sure the last stitch
is snug.
NOTE:
The stitches at either side of a cable will be stretched larger than a normal stitch. If you do
not pull tightly enough, you will have big, saggy holes instead of small, neat holes.
C
=
6
=
B or F =
Cable
the total number of stitches in the cable
where to hold the cable needle.
[I have seen this cable done as C2F to C12F (or B)]
Step-by-Step Cables – Workshop No. 18
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Every other cable you ever do is a variation of this basic cable. Once you master those 2 simple
cross-overs, you can do them all, provided, of course, the pattern is correct.
Cable Cheat Sheet:
C6F
C6B
Needle in Front – K3 – K3
Needle in Back – K3 – K3
Instructions:
Cast on 36 stitches.
Rows 1 - 4: Knit.
Row 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45, 53 (RS):
K3, (k1, p1) 3 times, p2, (k6, p2) twice, (p1, k1) 3 times, k3.
Row 6, 14, 22, 30, 38, 46, 54:
K3, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2, (p6, k2) twice, (p1, k1) 3 times, k3.
Row 7, 15, 23, 31, 39, 47, 55 (RS):
K3, (k1, p1) 3 times, p2, (k6, p2) twice, (p1, k1) 3 times, k3.
Row 8, 16, 24, 32, 40, 48, 56:
K3, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2, (p6, k2) twice, (p1, k1) 3 times, k3.
Row 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49, 57 (RS):
K3, (k1, p1) 3 times, p2, C6F, p2, C6B, p2, (p1, k1) 3 times, k3.
Row 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50, 58:
K3, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2, (p6, k2) twice, (p1, k1) 3 times, k3.
Row 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, 51, 59 (RS):
K3, (k1, p1) 3 times, p2, (k6, p2) twice, (p1, k1) 3 times, k3.
Row 12, 20, 28, 36, 44, 52, 60:
K3, (k1, p1) 3 times, k2, (p6, k2) twice, (p1, k1) 3 times, k3.
Rows 61 - 64: Knit across.
Bind off.
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(You will notice that Rows 5 through 12 were repeated 7 times for this sample pattern. Please take
note of that pattern if you wish to incorporate it into another project.)
(This chart does not include the 4 row borders on top and bottom, nor does it include the 3 stitch side borders.)
About the Chart:
The numbers on the right and left sides correspond to the rows of the pattern. These are the row
repeats.
I when I started working with knitting charts I found the phrasing, “k on front, p on back,” a little
confusing. So this chart has both front and back rows.
There are 2 funny looking rectangles in the middle of the chart. Those represent the cable twists.
They need a little explanation:
Each rectangle is six stitches wide and 1 row tall. Each set of diagonals is 3
stitches. On C6F the diagonals appears to be over the other 3 stitches. On C6B,
they are behind the other 3 stitches. The front and back instruction tells you what to
do with the first stitches you come to. They also resemble the actual cable.
Be careful!! The odd rows read left to right. The even rows read right to left, even though you will
be working left to right. Yeah, I know, it’s a little confusing. That’s because the chart is a
representation of only the front of the work.
You should be able to work back and forth from instructions to chart, until you really get the chart
clicking. If you have any problems, contact me.
Step-by-Step Cables – Workshop No. 18
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Celtic Trellis
Hi! Welcome to the 2nd Block of the Cables workshop. This will be the “Celtic Trellis.” Trellis I think
you can figure out, but why Celtic? Celtic patterns show up a lot in Aran sweaters. One thing all open
Celtic patterns have in common is the over-under cable work. The leg that was held in back before
will be worked in front, and vice versa.
This can be used as a filler stitch between a much larger cable. I have also seen it used as the main
pattern. There are 4 different cable twists in this block, so pay attention.
Chart Information:
Those of you who struggled with my very first chart can laugh at this one. I numbered the horizontal
squares.
The same “rules” apply from the first chart: the top, bottom, and side borders are not shown; and odd
rows read right to left and even rows read left to right. Had I realized how complex the chart would be,
I would have used this as the third block. Notice that the purl stitches in the purl cables are shown by
a red triangle.
Abbreviations:
CO
K
P
RS
Cast On
Knit
Purl
Right Side
Step-by-Step Cables – Workshop No. 18
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C4F
Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the front of
your work. The yarn must be behind the work. K the next 2 stitches. You want the 1st stitch
to be a little snug. Now, using the cable needle, and making sure it has not twisted, K those 2
stitches. Make sure the last stitch is snug.
C4B
Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the back of
the work. The yarn should be between it and the working needles. Knit the next 2 stitches,
make sure the 1st stitch is snug. Knit the 2 off of the cable needle, making sure the last stitch
is snug.
CP4F
Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the front of
your work. The yarn must be in front of the work. Purl the next 2 stitches. Move the yarn
behind the work. K the 2 off of the cable needle.
CP4B
Slip the next 2 stitches, purlwise, to a cable needle. Let the cable needle hang in the back of
the work. The yarn should be between it and the working needles. K the next two stitches.
Place the yarn in front of the cable needle. P the 2 stitches off of it.
The tricks that will help you know that you are knitting and purling where you should be is:
1.
On every row, you always knit the first and last 3 stitches (garter stitch).
2.
From Rows 5 through 43, if the stitch in the previous row (where you are about to knit or purl) is
a knit stitch, you will be knitting that stitch and, conversely, if the stitch in the previous row
(where you are about to knit or purl) is a purl stitch, you will be purling that stitch…regardless if
it’s a cable stitch or not.
Cable Cheat Sheet:
C4F
C4B
CP4F
CP4B
Needle in Front
Needle in Back
Needle in Front
Needle in Back
– K2 – K2
– K2 – K2
– P2 – K2
– K2 – P2
Instructions:
CO 36 stitches.
Rows 1-3:
Knit across.
Row 4, 12, 20, 28, 36:
K8, (p4, k4) twice, p4, k8.
Row 5, 13, 21, 29, 37 (RS):
K3, p5, (C4F, P4) 2 times, C4F, p5, k3.
Step-by-Step Cables – Workshop No. 18
Row 6, 14, 22, 30, 38:
K8, (p4, k4) twice, p4, k8.
Row 7, 15, 23, 31, 39 (RS):
K3, p3, (CP4B, CP4F) 3 times, p3, k3.
Row 8, 16, 24, 32, 40:
K6, p2, (k4, p4) twice, k4, p2, k6.
Row 9, 17, 25, 33, 41 (RS):
K3, p3, k2, (p4, C4B) twice, p4, k2, p3, k3.
Row 10, 18, 26, 34, 42:
K6, p2, (k4, p4) twice, k4, p2, k6.
Page 9 of 12
Row 11, 19, 27, 35, 43 (RS): K3, p3, (CP4F, CP4B) 3 times, p3, k3.
Rows 44-47:
Knit across. (Even though you knitted 3 rows at the
beginning, it is important to knit 4 rows at the end.)
Bind off.
(You will notice that Rows 4 through 11 were repeated 4 times for this sample pattern. Please take note of
that pattern if you wish to incorporate it into another project.)
(This chart does not include the 4 row borders on top and bottom, nor does it include the 3 stitch side borders.)
Step-by-Step Cables – Workshop No. 18
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Braided Cables
Are you ready? Block 3 should be a breeze after Celtic Trellis. It’s a 3-part cable. Done over a large
number (9 or 12) of stitches it looks great down the middle of a sweater. The only new thing about
this cable is how the cables are used.
This is so easy, if you have never used a chart, try using this one first. You can look back to the
pattern, but I think you’ll like it.
Chart Information:
As before, the top and bottom borders of knit 4 rows and the side borders of knit 3 are not on the
chart.
Abbreviations:
K
P
CO
Knit
Purl
Cast On
C6F
Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle. Hold in front. Knit next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches off of the
cable needle.
C6B
Slip 3 stitches onto cable needle. Hold in back. Knit next 3 stitches. Knit the 3 stitches off of the
cable needle.
Step-by-Step Cables – Workshop No. 18
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Cable Cheat Sheet:
C6F
C6B
Needle in Front – K3 – K3
Needle in Back – K3 – K3
Instructions:
CO 36 stitches.
Rows 1 - 4: Knit 4 rows.
Row 5, 11, 17, 23, 29, 35, 41, 47, 53, 59 (RS):
K3, p2, k9, p2, (k1, p1) twice, p2, k9, p2, k3.
Row 6, 12, 18, 24, 30, 36, 42, 48, 54, 60:
K5, p9, k2, (p1, k1) twice, k2, p9, k5.
Row 7, 13, 19, 25, 31, 37, 43, 49, 55, 61 (RS):
K3, p2, C6F, k3, p2, (k1, p1) twice, p2, k3, C6B, p2, k3.
Row 8, 14, 20, 26, 32, 38, 44, 50, 56, 62:
K5, p9, k2, (p1, k1) twice, k2, p9, k5.
Row 9, 15, 21, 27, 33, 39, 45, 51, 57, 63, 65 (RS):
K3, p2, k3, C6B, p2, (k1, p1) twice, p2, C6F, k3, p2, k3.
Row 10, 16, 22, 28, 34, 40, 46, 52, 58, 64, 66:
K5, p9, k2, (p1, k1) twice, k2, p9, k5.
Rows 67 - 70: Knit across.
Bind off.
(You will notice that Rows 5 through 10 were repeated 9 times and Rows 9 and 10 were repeated
one additional time for this sample pattern. Please take note of that pattern if you wish to incorporate
it into another project.)
Step-by-Step Cables – Workshop No. 18
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(This chart does not include the 4 row borders on top and bottom, nor does it include the 3 stitch side borders.)
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