Everything you need to
know about Patterns…..
Apparel I
4.00 Pattern and Fabric Preparation
Objective 3.01 B Understanding
Patterns
• Start Date: 10/19
• Essential Questions:
– What are the parts of the pattern?
– What are the pattern symbols and how are they
used in garment construction?
– What are the sections of a guide sheet and how
are they used?
–Pattern Envelope
• Photo
• Pattern Number #
• Cost
• Sizes Available
• Suggested Fabrics
• Notions
• Yardage
• Measurements /size
• Sketch
Pattern Basics
• A pattern is a blueprint
with all the
instructions to
construct a project
• Three essential parts:
– Pattern envelope
– Guide sheet
– Tissue pattern pieces
Guide
Sheet
• Includes:
– cutting layout
– sewing instructions
– finished product
sketches
– other special
information
Fewer pattern pieces=
easier pattern
Things to be aware of on the
Pattern Pieces!
• Pattern piece name/number or letter
• Front or back
• Number of pieces to cut
Lines to
be aware
of!!
Stitching/seam line
(broken line, usually 5/8”)
Adjustment line
(double parallel lines where
can be shortened or
lengthened)
Grain line
(parallel line,
designates
placement on
grain)
Cutting
line
(solid outline)
Hem line
(indicates how
much depth to
be turned up
for hem)
Center front and back
Center
front
• Indicates the
center front or
back of garment
Overlap
Brackets
(Place on Fold Line)
• Requires solid line to be placed on fold of fabric
• Usually seen at center front or back
• May also be represented by only a line with
“place on fold” printed.
Darts
• Triangular shapes to
designate fold and
stitching
• Control fullness
Stitching line
Fold line
Notches
• Diamond shaped
symbols
• Used for matching
seams and joining
garment pieces.
Dots, Squares, or Triangles
• matches pieces of fabric
• great for places with easing (like sleeves)
• Sometimes to indicate placement of details
like pockets or zippers
Buttonhole Placement
• Shows exact location
and length of each
buttonhole
. .
. .
Multi-sized
Patterns
•
•
•
Have many different
sizes on same piece
Mark cutting line to
remember which size
before cutting– use a
highlighter
They do not have a
seam line on them
Fabric Cutting
Layouts
• The diagram on the guide
sheet that shows how to
arrange the different
pattern pieces on 45” or
60” fabric
• Select your layout
diagram based on:
– the view of the pieces
– fabric width
– fabric type
– size
Fabric Grains
Selvage – two finished edges, do not ravel or fray
Lengthwise grain – runs in the same direction as
the selvage, strongest threads.
Crosswise grain – runs across fabric
from one selvage to the other,
usually has slight stretch.
Bias – runs diagonally across the fabric.
Has the most stretch.
**Groups do fabric demo
Fabric Folds
Lengthwise Fold
Fold fabric in half lengthwise with
right sides together
Crosswise Fold
Fold perpendicular to selvages
Center/Double Fold
Folded twice along the
lengthwise grain
Selvages meet in the middle
Partial Fold
Fold fabric only wide enough to
fit the widest pattern piece
needed on fold
Placement of pattern pieces
• A shaded pattern piece on a cutting layout indicates
that the piece should be turned printed side down
• FIRST: place the pieces on the fold or the largest ones
• Refer to pattern piece for number of fabric pieces to
cut by each pattern
• Place all pattern pieces on fabric before pinning any to
fabric, and especially before cutting!!!!
• Follow layout diagram exactly or at least get pattern
pieces to fit with all on proper grain
FABRIC PREPARATION
• Preshrink fabrics by washing
– Helps straighten grain
– Removes some fabric finishes
– Shows how it will be when
finished garment
PINNING
•
Pin the grain line first!
•
Place pins about every 6”
•
Pins should be perpendicular
to fabric/pattern edge
(cutting line).
•
Place pins closer in curves
•
Place pins diagonally in corners
CUTTING
• Use dressmaker shears
• Cut with long, smooth cuts
• Keep fabric & Pattern flat on
surface
• Notches should be cut away from seam allowance.
• Double notches should be cut together with one
long edge.
MARKING
•
•
•
•
•
Mark areas with important features
Mark dots & squares
Mark darts
Mark only on the wrong side of fabric.
Remove before pressing- or what
happens??
QUICK THINGS YOU SHOULD
KNOW!
• Where can you find care instructions for
fabric?
• What information is on a pattern piece?
• What information is on the guide
sheets?
• What pattern symbols assist you in
matching pattern pieces?