PATTERN
SYMBOLS
CLOTHING/SPORTS SEWING
GRAIN LINE
• A heavy solid line with an arrow at each end
• It appears on all pattern pieces that aren't
cut on the fold
• The grain line indicates how to place that
pattern piece on grain
• To do this, the grain line arrow must be
placed exactly parallel to the selvage (unless
otherwise noted).
EXAMPLES OF A
GRAIN LINE
PLACE ON FOLD
• A bracketed grain line that indicates
the pattern edge is to be placed
exactly on the fold.
• If it is angled at all, it will change the
shape of your pattern piece, and you
may have to cut out the pattern piece
again.
NOTICE THAT THE "PLACE ON FOLD"
MARKING IS EXACTLY ON THE FOLD.
CUTTING LINE
• A heavy line that outlines the pattern
pieces.
• Sometimes a symbol of scissors is
printed on the line to show the proper
direction for cutting.
• Occasionally
a cutting line
appears
within the
pattern. This
indicates a
shorter
hemline, a
lower
neckline, or a
lining cut from
the same
pattern piece.
• IF THE PATTERN IS MULTI-SIZED, THE MAJOR
PATTERN PIECES WILL HAVE SEVERAL
CUTTING
LINES.
EACH CUTTING LINE WILL BE MARKED TO
INDICATE THE CORRESPONDING SIZE.
BUTTONHOLES
A solid line that shows the exact
location and length of each buttonhole.
NOTCHES
• Diamond Shaped symbols that extend
beyond the cutting line.
• Used for matching seams and joining
garment pieces.
• Used in different numbers. This is to make it
easier to match the pattern pieces.
• When assembling pattern pieces, it is
important to make sure the notches match
up.
• If the notched edge
does not match
correctly, then you
might be
connecting the
wrong pieces
together.
• Notches make your
pattern into puzzle
pieces. They help
you to know how
to match your
pattern pieces
correctly.
• Some notches point
outward, and some
point inward.
• The Style of Notch
depends on the
pattern company
• Notches cut inward,
you can used little
clips to identify notch
placement.
• Notches cut outward,
make sure to identify
how many notches
DOTS-SQUARES-TRIANGLES
Symbols used to help match and join
garment sections, especially areas that
are gathered or eased.
ADJUSTMENT LINE
• Lengthen or Shorten markings
• A solid line and a dashed line, with an
arrow in the middle, that indicates
placement for lengthening or
shortening a pattern piece.
• This marking is interchangeable with
two parallel lines. It just depends on
the pattern designer.
WRONG SIDE OF
PATTERN
• When reading pattern instructions,
sometimes the layout guide will
indicate that a pattern piece needs to
be placed face down.
• This symbol illustrated a pattern piece
that should be placed face down
DARTS
SINGLE ENDED
DOUBLE ENDED
• Triangular shape
indicated by dots
and/or two broken
lines.
• Diamond Shape
indicated by dots,
and/or connected
lines.
DARTS
• Pattern will show where a dart is
supposed to be placed in a garment,
to take in fabric and give a more fitted
appearance.
• A Dart is closed and angled at the
bottom, whereas, a pleat is open at
the bottom.
WHERE ARE DARTS USED?
HOW ARE DARTS
CONSTRUCTED?
PLEAT MARKING
Two straight lines with an arrow between
them, to indicate where fabric should be
taken in, to create a pleat.
DIRECTIONAL
STITCHING
Sometimes it is necessary to stitch in a
specific direction. This symbol shows
you which directions you should stitch.
These arrows show the
direction that stitches
should be put in.
SELVAGE EDGE
• The un-cut edge of
the fabric, that does
not fray.
• It usually has a
symbol, or unique
marking, but not
always.
REASONS TO
PRESHRINK FABRIC
REASON #1:
The Fabric will go back
to it's original shape,
so that the final project
will not be off-grain, or
out of shape.
REASON #2:
The project will not
change size after it
has been
constructed
NAP FABRICS
• A fabric that has a
raised surface.
•
If you rub your
hand one direction,
it will look different
than if you rub your
hand the other
direction.
• Reflects light
differently
DIRECTIONAL DESIGN
• A fabric that has a print
that all the symbols, or
characters are going the
same direction.
• If they are flipped, they
will be upside-down.
• Pattern pieces must all be
placed going the same
direction.
ONE-DIRECTION
LAYOUT
For Nap Fabric Or Directional Print fabric
All pattern pieces must be laid out and cut out
going the same direction.
LENGTHWISE YARNS
• Also known as straight of grains
• The yarns on the fabric that are
PARALLEL to the SELVAGE EDGE
CROSSWISE YARNS
The yarns of the fabric that are
PERPENDICULAR to the SELVAGE
EDGE
• “LENGTHWISE
Grain may also
be called
"WARP“
• Stronger
Threads
• "CROSSWISE
" Grain may
also be called
"WEFT"
• Weaker
Threads
BIAS OR TRUE BIAS
BIAS
• The diagonal
direction on the
fabric
• Where the fabric
has the most
stretch
TRUE BIAS
• Exactly a 45 degree
angle on the
diagonal grain of the
fabric
• When fabric is cut on
the TRUE BIAS, it
changes the
characteristics of the
fabric….
• It is more bendable
• It is more stretchable