Association of British Climbing Walls Training Trust
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NICAS Launched as an Achievement Scheme in 2008
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2008 had 23 Primary & 40 Awarding Centres
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NICAS became an Award Scheme in 2012
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35 Primary Centres & 198 Awarding Centres delivering NICAS around the
UK
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Since 2008 there have been 54,000+ candidates registered with the
scheme
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Rebranding of the ABC Training Trust as NICAS
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NIBAS Launched in October 2014 with 18 Primary Centres
NICAS/NIBAS – the low down
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Administered by the ABC Training
Trust (NICAS) – as technical experts
for indoor climbing
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Recognised by the BMC, MCofS, MI,
MTUK & UIAA
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As widely recognised & accessible as
possible
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Not for profit
NICAS/NIBAS – What’s New
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NICAS Handbook Review 2012 next review will be 2016
New NICAS Logbooks, Pages
Welsh & Visually Impaired Part 1 Logbook
Team of NICAS Technical Experts
NICAS supported Moderation 2013
Team of NICAS/NIBAS Coaches
NICAS/NIBAS Resources
 Teaching Plans
 Grit Kids (vimeo.com/nicas)
Centralised Database 2013
NICAS Ambassadors
NICAS Exit Routes
NICAS in GCSE & SQA
NICAS Level 5 Awarding Centres
NIBAS & Pre-NICAS
New NICAS Costs 2014
• To Candidates:
– Part 1: £5 maximum
– Part 2: £8 maximum
• This includes registration, log book
and certificates
• Awarding Centre registration:
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Level 1 - £30 per year
Level 2 - £35 per year
Level 3 - £50 per year
Level 4 - £60 per year
Level 5 - £75 per year
PC - £100 per year (Reg £450)
NICAS – Brief Overview
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Level 1 and 2 booklet (supervised) Level 3-5 logbook (unsupervised but need witness name/signature)
Entry at any level
Certificate awarded after completion of assessment criteria at each level
Expected minimum times – 3,8,20,30,40 hrs
Focussed on proficiency not performance levels 1 & 2
Levels progressively introduce skills, knowledge and responsibility
Provides a record of achievement
Provides developmental structure – including beyond the scheme (Exit Routes)
Climbs/ boulder problems can be practiced
Can only be logged as a ground up ascent with no rests
For levels 1 and 2 some climbs can be repeated if there is progression
Candidates should log climbs/problems appropriate for their ability
The award is fully transferable between Awarding Centres
Levels can be used to gauge proficiency but are not competency tests
Centres are still responsible for their own registration procedures
NICAS & GCSE Edexcel
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EdExcel have formally adopted NICAS as their syllabus for the GCSE PE (Indoor
Climbing) as part of Adventurous Activities – may be extended to outdoors.
EdExcel refer to schools and academic organisations as Centres.
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In order to use the EdExcel Indoor Climbing GCSE (PE) syllabus, the onus is on the
academic organisation to seek approval from EdExcel.
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“Centre” refers to the academic organisation and not to a NICAS Primary centre, Awarding Centre or
climbing wall.
The Centre must contact EdExcel to say they want to do the indoor version of GCSE climbing.
EdExcel will send them the syllabus along with other necessary documentation under the ‘Meeting Local
Needs’ basis.
The Centre take this syllabus to their local climbing facility – a NICAS AC or PC – who may then deliver and
assess for GCSE using the criteria laid down by EdExcel.
Candidates may follow the EdExcel syllabus without being registered for NICAS,
however they will not receive NICAS certificates as they achieve each level.
ACs and PCs may wish to use this as a sales opportunity to register candidates for
NICAS from the day they start their GCSE climbing training, so that they receive
independent accreditation of their achievement which is separate to their GCSE
grade.
Edexcel Issues
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Not enough time
Too many belays
Too many climbs
Introducing grades
National Indoor Climbing Award Schemes
two separate products
National Indoor Bouldering Award Scheme
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Administered by the ABC Training
Trust (NICAS) – as technical experts
for indoor climbing
NIBAS Screening Committee review
all applications
Recognised by the BMC, MCofS, MI,
MTUK & UIAA
As widely recognised & accessible as
possible
Not for profit
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NIBAS will be a 5 part award, split into two parts
Level 1 & 2 can be run on Traverse Walls
Entry at any level
(NICAS Level 3 Boulder Problems may allow
evidence for NIBAS Level 1)
Certificate awarded after completion of
assessment criteria at each level
1, 2 & 3 focus on skill competence not performance
Levels progressively introduce skills,
knowledge and understanding
Provides a record of achievement
Provides developmental structure
Boulder problems can be practiced
Can only be logged as a ground
up ascent with no rests
For levels 1 and 2 some problems can be repeated if there is progression
Candidates should log problems appropriate for their ability
The award is fully transferable between Awarding Centres
Levels can be used to gauge proficiency but are not competency tests
Centres are still responsible for their own registration procedures
NIBAS – the Levels
Part 1
1. New Boulderer – an entry level award for candidates who wish to learn what
bouldering is as a physical activity and how to use a bouldering wall safely.
2. Foundation Boulderer – aimed at helping the candidate to understand how a
bouldering wall works, basic preparation and control while bouldering, with an
introduction to equipment and movement skills.
3. Competent Boulderer – corresponding to most bouldering-only centres’
“membership” standards. Aimed at ensuring a candidate possesses the knowledge
and skill to boulder safely at any bouldering facility and operate in a responsible
manner.
Part 2
4. Skilled Boulderer – aimed at developing a self-motivated boulderer who has a wide
range of skills and has reached a high level of competence, with a desire to progress
by identifying and setting goals.
5. Performance Boulderer – the top level award that focuses on improving
performance, with advanced skills and knowledge of training and bouldering as well
as experience of local and national competitions.
NIBAS Costs
• To Candidates:
– Part 1: £6 maximum
– Part 2: £6 maximum
– Binder: £3 maximum
• This includes registration, log book
and certificates
• Awarding Centre registration:
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Level 1 - £30 per year
Level 2 - £35 per year
Level 3 - £50 per year
Level 4 - £60 per year
Level 5 - £75 per year
PC - £100 per year (Reg £450)
Instructor Requirements
Facility Requirements - Overview
1. New Boulderer
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Climbing surface 2m high x 6m wide
Crash surface to meet BS:EN 1176-1
2. Foundation Boulderer
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Permanent structure of length 12m
Ability to set 20 boulder problems that offer a range of difficulty to participants
Wall must have 3 changes of angles across its surface
Crash landing surface to meet both BS:EN 1176-1 and BS:EN 12572-2
3. Competent Boulderer
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Dedicated climbing facility with a dedicated bouldering area that has a crash matting surface size of >40m2
meeting regulations (as above)
30 individual boulder problems that offer a rising scale of difficulty that are reset at least quarterly
4. Skilled Boulderer
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Dedicated climbing facility with a dedicated bouldering area of >80m2 meeting crash matting regulations (as
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60 individual boulder problems that offer a rising scale of difficulty reset at least bi-monthly
Dedicated training area comprising Fingerboards / Campus boards
5. Performance Boulderer
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Dedicated climbing facility that is a member of the ABC. It must have a dedicated bouldering area of
>160m2 and meet crash matting regulations (as above)
120 individual boulder problems that offer a rising scale of difficulty that are reset at least monthly
Dedicated Training area comprising Fingerboards / Campus boards
Strength & Conditioning area
NIBAS Course Directors - Overview
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To gain approved status with the ABCTT each centre must register a named Course Director. This person will be
responsible for the delivery and quality of the Scheme within the organisation
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The Course Director is responsible for providing training and induction for any instructional staff and external
instructors who wish to deliver and assess the Scheme at that centre
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The Course Director will act as the link between the centre and the ABCTT and will be responsible for ordering
logbooks and materials from the ABCTT or their nominated Primary Centre
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The Course Director is responsible for the development and implementation of a Child Protection Policy at their
centre including Disclosure and Barring Service checks and references for instructors where appropriate
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The Course Director is responsible for the awarding and recording of NIBAS certificates
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In order for a centre to deliver the Scheme at any level the Course Director (and any other registered Assistant
Directors) must have attended a NIBAS induction workshop
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Inductions and re-inductions for Primary Centres and Level 5 Awarding Centres will be provided solely by the
ABCTT, Primary Centres will induct Awarding Centres
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If the Course Director leaves the organisation responsible for the climbing centre, the centre must reregister a new
Course Director in a timely fashion or risk losing its approval status
Competent Person - Overview
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Every Accredited Centre wishing to deliver the Scheme must have access to a named Competent
Person, whose role is to support the delivery of the Scheme at the Centre.
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This will include
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supporting the original application
involvement in staff training
operating procedures
risk assessment and any other necessary areas
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Competent Persons must attend a NIBAS induction provided by the ABCTT, which entitles them
to act for as many NIBAS centres as they wish to the highest level for which they received the
induction.
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A re-induction is due at least every three years for their status to remain valid. They must hold
suitable Professional Indemnity insurance for the advice they give.
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Competent Persons may conduct inductions for Course Directors of aspirant Awarding Centres up
to Level 4, on behalf of the Primary Centre to which they are affiliated, providing they have
attended the ABCTT Primary Centre induction.
Competent Person - Overview
Competency can be measured through one of three routes:
1. Qualification: the Competent Person (CP) holds a qualification which
entitles them to act as a Technical Advisor, such as Mountain Instructor
Award, Mountain Instructor Certificate or British Mountain Guide with
suitable and relevant recent experience of teaching bouldering.
2. Equivalent Qualification: the CP holds an equivalent qualification, such as
Mountain Training Development Coach, with FUNdamentals 3 and suitable
and relevant recent experience of teaching bouldering.
3. Prior Experience: the CP is the Chief Instructor or Manager of a Primary
Centre or dedicated major bouldering facility, with extensive relevant recent
experience.
Any questions…