INFO PACK
ROUND 7
SA BOULDER TITLES INFO PACK
Contents
Location and Contact Information ..................................................................... 3
Time table .......................................................................................................... 4
Categories .......................................................................................................... 5
Cost.................................................................................................................... 5
Event Officials and Format ................................................................................. 6
Pumpfest Rules .................................................................................................. 8
FINAL ROUND RULES.......................................................................................... 9
Disciplinary Rules for All Categories ................................................................. 13
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Location and Contact Information
Round 4 of the South Australian Climbing Series will be held at Adelaide’s
Bouldering Club. Located in 10 Ware Street, Thebarton, SA.
Contact Information:
PH: (08) 8352 3794 or 0400285094
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.aboulderclub.com
Online Registration:
http://www.sportclimbingaustralia.org.au/event-1910854
Facebook Event: https://www.facebook.com/events/458382347667914/
More info: http://www.aboulderclub.com/upcoming_events/round-7-of-saclimbing-series-2015/
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Time table
Please note that the timetable may be subject to change at any moment or ON
THE DAY, so please listen to all announcements and officials.
Sunday 27th of September 2015:
9:40am
Gym Opens
9:40 am to 09:55am
Registration for all Categories.
9:55am
Briefing for all competitors
10:00pm to 1:00pm
Climbing Time PUMPFEST
1:00pm to 2:40pm
Isolation for Finalists & Route setting for Final Round.
2:40pm
Briefing and viewing for Final Round competitors
3:00pm to 4:32pm
Final Round Climbing Time
4:40pm
Presentations
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Categories
Youth Categories:
Youth D (born 2004 or after)
Youth C (born 2002-2003)
Youth B (born 2000-2001)
Youth A (born 1998-1999)
Juniors (born 1996-1997)
Adults Categories:
Open A (born 1995 or before)
Open B (born 1995 or before)
Masters (born 1975 or before)
Cost
Entry cost
-Comp Registration (if SCA member): $20
-Comp Registration for non-SCA members: $30
- Comp Registration Late Fee (after the 11th of July 2015): $40
- Youth Categories special fee (incl. Juniors, Youth A, B, C and D): $10
SCA Membership is Optional but it is required for people wanting to qualify for the State
Series. It’s a yearly membership so you only pay for it once for all the competitions of the
year.
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Event Officials and Format
Event Officials
Event Organiser: Adelaide’s Bouldering Club Partnered with Sport Climbing
South Australia and Vertical Reality Climbing
Head Official: Andie Torrealba
Head Judge: Adam Clay
Head Route Setter: Adam Clay
Assistant Route Setter: Trevor Pearce
Climbing Procedure:
PumpFest:
Masters, Intermediate, Beginners and Youth categories will compete in a
‘Pumpfest’ format, all categories at same time. Climbers will have 3 hours to
attempt as many climbs as they wish. At the completion of the round (3 hours),
The overall ranking will be calculated according to the number of tops.
The 6 highest ranked males and 6 highest ranked females will compete in the
Final.
Finals:
Finals will be run World Cup Style. It will consist of 4 boulders. All Finalists will
have a 2 minute viewing time as a group of each boulder before climbing
begins. Climbing time will be 4 plus (meaning if you are on the wall when the 4
minutes is up then you can finish that attempt).
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Officials:
Route setters and judges will be available during the event to answer
competitors’ questions and enforce climbing rules.
To compete in the competition the climber acknowledges all information
detailed in this handbook and agrees to abide by Adelaide’s Bouldering Club
Rules and Procedures.
The competition will use the IFSC rules 2013 as guideline.
By registering for this competition, the climber authorises Adelaide’s
Bouldering Club, Sport Climbing South Australia and Vertical Reality the use of
images/photographs/movies that may be taken at the event. To revoke
authorisation of the use of photographs taken from the event, the climber
must submit in writing to [email protected] no longer that the
25thth of September.
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Pumpfest Rules
GENERAL RULES
1.1
1.2
1.3
1.4
1.7
1.8
1.9
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Each round of the Pumpfest will run for 3 hours.
During the Pumpfest, each group will have numerous problems to
attempt in the allocated time of varying difficulty.
Each climber will be awarded an additional point for a flash. A top on
any attempt after will be awarded the points relative to the grade
of the climb. Placing at the end of the event will be awarded
according to the total points of each climber’s top 8 climbs.
Climbers who score the same points will be separated according to
highest ‘raw’ score (without flash points) composition. If scores
remain equal, the 7th climb will be taken in to account and so on
until one climber is ranked higher.
Climbers must start each attempt from the ground. Touching, with
hands or feet, holds other than the starting holds from the ground is
not permitted.
Competitors may brush the holds from the ground using the brushes
provided.
If the climber uses an illegal hold, touches the mat in any way, or
otherwise negates their attempt a judge will ask them to stop and an
attempt will be counted.
The judge’s decision is final as there is no opportunity for appeal in
this format.
FINAL ROUND RULES
SECTION 1:
GENERAL RULES
1.1
Boulder competitions consist of a series of short routes, called boulders.
All boulders are climbed without ropes.
1.2 All boulders are protected by landing mats. It is responsibility of the
climber to ensure that the mats are positioned correctly bellow them
before each attempt.
1.3 The Boulder competition will consist of 1 qualifying round (Pumpfest)
and a Final round.
1.4 The number of boulders in the Finals will be 4.
1.5 For safety reasons, the boulders shall be made in such a way that the
lowest part of the body of the competitor shall never be higher than 3
metres above the landing mat.
1.6 The jury of each boulder (on the Final round) shall consist of a Boulder
judge.
1.7 Each Boulder will have a pre-designated starting position from which all
attempts shall start. It will consist of, at least, fixed positions for the two
hands, and may include fixed and marked positions for either one or
both feet. The starting position will be clearly marked, and the marking
shall be the same for all boulders. At discretion of the Chief Routesetter
the pre-designated starting holds may be labelled left and right.
1.8 One bonus point will be awarded for holding a specific hold on the
boulder. The positioning of this hold will be at the route setter’s
discretion. This hold will be clearly marked, and the marking will be the
same in all boulders. The bonus point will be awarded also in the case of
a competitor having successfully completed an attempt without having
held the bonus hold.
1.9 The finish hold will be clearly marked in the same colour as the starting
hold(s).
1.10 The final round will be run simultaneously for both male and female
categories.
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1.11 The competitor will not be allowed to touch any other holds than the
starting holds. If another hold is touched by mistake, the judge will count
it as an attempt and will ask the competitor to come down from the
wall.
1.12 The competitor is allowed to brush any holds they can reach without
touching any holds or features. A person with a long brush will be
available to brush any holds the competitors needs to be brushed.
SECTION 2:
OBSERVATION
2.1 In the qualification round, there shall be no separate observation period as
the observation period is part of the allocated time for the boulders.
2.2 Competitors shall remain within the designated observation zone during
the observation. They are not permitted to climb on the climbing wall or
stand on any equipment or furniture. Competitors shall not communicate
in any way with any person outside the observation area. They may seek
clarification only from the Jury President or the Boulder Judge assigned to
the boulder. Touching with hands or feet, or chalking, holds other than the
starting holds, or adding tick marks, during observation shall be counted as
one attempt on the boulder.
2.3 Preceding the final round, there will be a common observation period of 2
minutes per boulder.
SECTION 3:
CLIMBING PROCEDURE
3.1 In the final round, each boulder will be attempted by all competitors, in the
order of their starting numbers, before moving on to the next boulder.
3.2 The climbing period during the Final round will be 4 minutes. However, if a
climber begins an attempt prior to the end of the 4 minute period, he/she
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will be allowed to finish that attempt. If a competitor finishes his/her
attempt before 4 minutes have passed, he/she shall return to isolation in
the transit area and the next competitor shall start his/her climbing period
immediately.
3.3 A competitor must start from the marked hand and foot holds before
climbing on. Every try to get into the designated starting position shall be
counted as an attempt when every part of the body of the competitors has
left the ground.
3.4 The beginning (and the end) of every rotation period in every rotation will
be announced by a loud and clear signal. When one minute remains of
rotation time, this will be announced by a different signal.
3.5 The organising staff will clean holds when they deem it necessary. A
competitor may also request that holds be cleaned before any attempt on
the boulder. Brushes or other materials may be used by competitors to
clean holds that may be reached from the ground. Only brushes or other
materials that are provided by the organisation shall be used for this
purpose.
SECTION 4:
COMPLETITION OF AN ATTEMPT
4.1 The finishing hold will be controlled by both hands. An attempt is
considered successful when the Boulder judge announces “OK”.
4.2 An attempt is considered finished in the case of a return to the ground, or
at the end of the rotation period.
4.3 An attempt is considered finished if any part of the body makes any contact
with the ground or mats.
SECTION 5:
RANKING AFTER EACH ROUND
5.1 After each round of the competition, the competitors shall be ranked
according to the following criteria:
a. The number of successfully completed boulders;
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b. The total numbers of attempts to complete these boulders;
c. The total number of bonus points;
d. The total number of attempts to achieve these bonus points.
5.2 In case of tied places, the results of the preceding round shall be taken into
account in the count-back procedure.
5.3 If, after applying the count back procedure, there is a tie for the first place
at the end of the round, a Tie Break shall be held on one boulder. Each tied
competitor shall make only one attempt in the same order as for the final. A
pre-designated period is fixed in consultation with the Chief Routesetter
and the attempt shall be started within 40 seconds. After their attempts,
the competitors are ranked. If several competitors have reached the top,
they are deemed equally and the final ranking is announced. If nobody has
reached the top and if there are still tied competitors in the first place, the
competitors in the first place shall make another attempt following the
same procedure until they are separated, up to a maximum of 6 attempts. If
a tie still exists after the 6th attempt, the competitors shall be deemed
equal.
SECTION 6:
QUOTA FOR EACH ROUND
6.1 The fixed quota of competitors qualifying for the final round shall be 6
competitors.
6.2 The fixed quota shall be filled with the highest ranked competitors in the
qualification round.
6.3 If the fixed quota is exceeded as a result of tied competitors, all those tied
competitors shall qualify for the final round.
SECTION 7:
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AWARDING OF PLACING
7.1 At the conclusion of the event, final placing will be awarded in each of the
categories.
Disciplinary Rules for All Categories
1.1 A climber may be given a yellow card by the Jury President for:
a. Arguing with a Judge’s decision
b. Being coached on the wall by a spectator or fellow competitor
c. Unsporting behaviour
1.2 Two yellow cards will result in expulsion from the competition.
1.3 Spectators who are distracting a judge or climber, or coaching a climber on
the wall, can be asked to leave the climbing area by the Jury President.
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