QUALITY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
QUALITY MANAGEMENT
AT CUTTING
Starting from this stage of the garment’s production
procces, it is important to mention that the variability’s
of production methods, quality control, qualified
human recources availability and invesments are
extremely important.
Before starting the cutting process, fabric width
should be verified to ensure the better consumptions
taht diminsh the costs. Before carrying out the
industrial cut, an approval pilot should take place in
order to verify taht the whole lot will behave according
to the design and technical specifications.
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Once all the paperwork is checked and available, it is
time for cutting. If you have adequate storage space, it
is a good idea to cut at least a week’s worth of work.
It is highly recommendable to implement a shrinkage
quality control process at this stage, b cutting an small
piece of fabric (30cm x 30cm) an to wash or dry clean it
in order to verify how much is going to shrink. This
information will guide to proper adjusment to the pattern
in order to ensure that final measurements after wash
will be of the customer satisfaction. Regullary, no more
tahn 5% shrinkage should be accepted (5% on the
length and 5% on the width).
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Several software’s and technologies of technologies
of industrial pattern making exist, like the Gerber,
Lectra or Investronica, which are systems taht allows
precise consumption, size grading and cutting, thus
better pricing. Automatic cutting tables and robotized
blades can cut massive quantities per day.
Nevertheless, if the projected invesment level is
smaller, is alternative is cutting manually which is also
effective but doesn’t provide the volumes and
accuracy that can be achieved with technology.
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Cutting tables don’t require high technology; ideally
the length should be 15 to 20 meters (the longer the
length the more fabric lays can improve the yield).
Some tabes require pins for stripped or printed fabric
in order to ensure proper line or design matching
between front and back panels.
Some fabrics will require a 24 hours relaxation (fabric
flat on top of the tables) before cutting, in order to let
the fabric adjust to the final position and avoid
unexpected shrinkage effects after cutting.
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Quality at the cutting room are : lots mixture, size
mixture (avoid sewing a size M front with a size L
back!), matching colors, shrinkage, mixture of
accessories (collars, inserts, etc) which in all cases can
be administerd with elements of inline control, efficient
production methodologies and personnel proper
training.
It is important to mention taht good and effective
technologies can be applied at this area, by the
assignment of bar control printed codes (strickes) taht
will indicate production time for each sewing operation
per garment, so a systematized production control at
sewing can be administered.
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If no bar codes are available, it is very useful as well
to use simple stickers for every single part of the
unassembled garment that will provide important
information: a) Production Order number, b) size of
each piece, c) number of every package, d) number
of production lot, e) customer code, etc. These
stickers are available in most of textile supplies
stores.
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QUALITY CONTROL
AT SEWING
Quality Control in Process at sewing room is
related to find the mistake as soon as it happen at the
work sattion. Therefore, it is need to control every
operation in process in order to verify taht the
operation is properly perfomed. Any deviation or
mistake should be expalined to the worker in order to
avoid the same mistake on the rest of the production.
Finding mistakes when the garments are finished is
the worst and costly practice that will damage any
production flow and the entire business.
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Garment Measurements & Tolerance
Some construction standarts and specifications include
plus-or-minustolerances. A tolerance is the difference
between the allowance minimum and maximum of a
specification or standard. Allowable tolerances establish
the limits within which the product can vary yet still be of
acceptable quality.
It is important to set up a guide for garment tolerances
in order to avoid defective goods being passed through;
whilst standards taht are too rigid may result in
acceptable goods being unnecessarily rejected (chart
below).
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General guide that if the measurement is not doubled
or beyond from the preset tolerance, a remark on the
inspection report is then reference.
Inch (in)
Centimeter (cm)
Measurement
Tolerance
Measurement
Tolerance
Under 5
+/- 0,25
Under 15
+0,5
5 – 25
+/- 0,5
15 - 65
+/-1
25 – 50
+/- 0,75 , -0,5
65 – 130
+2, -1,5
Over 50
+1, -0,75
Over 130
+2,5
Guide for commercial tolerance in woven garments.
Source : Courtesy of Inchcape Testing Services Hong Kong Ltd.
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• MISTAKE IN SEWING
Stain
Wavy Zipper
Malfunctioning zipper
Loose stitch , incorrect this tension
International Garment Training Centre
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