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Top to Tail
A Grown-Up’s Guide to
Rabbit Care
Edited by John and Caroline Bower
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This booklet is dedicated to that growing band of
adventurous adults who have a rabbit as their companion
and all the mums and dads who end up being the
caretaker and companion to what, at the outset, was
supposed to be a child’s pet.
Our apologies for referring to your rabbit as “it”
throughout this handbook. This may appear to be totally
at odds with the spirit this booklet is meant to convey.
But it does preclude constantly having to refer to “he”
or “she” in every instance.
We trust that you and your rabbit will forgive us.
Our thanks to everyone who commented on the draft
of this booklet, particularly vets John and Caroline
Bower, who are partners in The Veterinary Hospital
Group in Plymouth. And Sally Machell, who has
re-homed innumerable rabbits over the years and
provides holidays for caged pets in Watford.
Sally can be reached on 01923 447446.
All illustrations are by Bill Reid, who despite admitting
to knowing little about rabbits was immediately able to
capture their character and the enjoyment they can give.
Bill can be reached on 0131 551 3354.
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What Makes Rabbits Unique?
People who haven’t lived with rabbits often ask those
hours underground in complete darkness, preferring
who do if rabbits make “good pets,” and if so, whether
to feed, court and play during the safer hours of
they are more like dogs or cats. Most rabbit people
darkness. Because of this, sight is not as important to
don’t quite know how to respond to these questions,
them as smell. Each rabbit has an individual scent
not only because they’ve probably transcended such
profile which is important in their communication.
mundane matters in their relationships with rabbits,
They mark their territory by leaving secretions from
but also because the questions make them feel
their chin gland on prominent objects around them
uncomfortable.
and on each other. Their urine and faeces are also
For most people, an animal is perceived as a “good
important in marking their territory.
pet” if it shows affection in ways human beings can
understand without much effort (e.g. sitting on one’s
lap or coming when called), if it participates in games
such as “fetch” which human beings can easily
comprehend or if it makes an obvious effort to
communicate vocally by barking or meowing. People
usually seem fairly sure these qualities cannot be
expected in a rabbit, and hence, that rabbits would not
make “good pets.” Alternatively, some people expect
such traits in all rabbits and may be disappointed in
one unwilling or unable to comply with their
expectations.
The second question, “Are rabbits more like cats or
dogs?” naturally follows from the first. The answer is
rabbits are most like rabbits. They share a few
characteristics with dogs, a few with cats, and a few
with humans. But mostly they’re like rabbits, and
learning what rabbits are like is part of the joy of living
with them. The fundamental difference from dogs and
In the wild, rabbits are prey and this accounts for a lot
of their behaviour. That doesn’t mean they don’t make
good pets though!
All this adds up to an animal that behaves very
differently from a dog or cat. This doesn’t detract in
any way. Rabbits make wonderful, exciting, intelligent
companions for wonderful, exciting, intelligent people.
That’s all there is to it.
cats is that the wild rabbit is a prey animal and this has
Rabbits have always been popular pets for children
far reaching implications in explaining a lot of their
and there are many good books written about rabbits
behaviour and how we should treat them.
with children in mind. In recent years, as house-rabbits,
Prey animals do not exhibit obvious signs of fear, pain
or contentment. In the wild, such behaviour could cost
them their lives as it draws attention to them and may
indicate that they are vulnerable or at least not alert to
the possible predator. This possibility of ending
up as someone else’s meal shows itself in all aspects
many have been taken on as companion animals for
adults. Either way, very little literature currently exists
that has been written for you, the caretaker, no matter
whether you are a concerned parent wishing to do
your best for your child’s pet or an enthusiastic adult
anxious to make a relationship with a new friend.
of the rabbit’s life. They spend most of the daylight
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The Companion Rabbit
Rabbits as children’s pets
Many rabbits are acquired as a child’s pet.
Unfortunately many people are surprised and
disappointed to find that rabbits rarely conform to the
cute-and-cuddly stereotype in children’s stories. They
tend to be too busy dashing about to be cuddled.
It should be remembered that rabbits are physically
delicate animals and can be hurt by being picked
without supporting them adequately. If this happens
and the rabbit feels frightened, it will kick and struggle
which means children can also get hurt. Rabbits are
also built to react to sudden changes which means
Either way, reconcile yourself to the fact that a rabbit is
an adult’s responsibility. Rabbits are very sensitive to
changes to their feeding, cleaning, and exercise
routines. Changes are stressful and may lead to illness.
Symptoms of illness are often subtle changes in
appetite, behaviour, or droppings that even older
children may miss. It is unreasonable to expect a child
of any age to take sole responsibility for the care of any
pet. The rabbit and your children, as well as the family
peace, will benefit greatly from you accepting this.
Rabbits as companion animals
they may either run away or try to bite when approached
But rabbits do make good pets. With the active
too quickly and too loudly. Stress-related illnesses are
support of an interested parent, rabbits can make an
common. For these reasons, many children, especially
ideal pet for an older child. Adults should also consider
younger ones, find the initial enthusiasm soon wears
rabbits as a pet for themselves. Compared with other
off and they lose interest.
domestic pets, they have a lot going for them:
• Rabbits are quiet and can learn to use a litter tray
just as quickly as a cat.
• They are fun to watch and soon show their
personalities to be just as individual as any dog
or cat.
• Rabbits don’t necessarily need outdoor
accommodation and will happily live indoors as
long as they are given plenty of space for exercise
and access to sunlight.
• Rabbits are social animals and benefit from the
companionship of humans or other animals,
Rabbits get on better with calmer, quieter children and
although the need may vary from rabbit to rabbit.
also make excellent companions for adults.
Many enjoy being with people but your family must
If your child is generally easygoing, calm and
have patience, understanding, and an acceptance
cooperative, he or she may get on quite happily with a
of individual differences to earn their trust.
well handled rabbit. On the other hand, if your child is
get along with most other dogs and cats as long
or frequently seems to need reminders, they may find
as they are properly introduced, preferably early
it difficult to build a relationship with a rabbit and you
in life.
may find that a rabbit is simply an additional
stress to all of you.
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• Rabbits play, some more than others. Many can
generally on the loud side and tends to be very active
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Rabbits as part of the family
Rabbits can be kept in outdoor hutches and allowed
to exercise in the garden as well as in the house. They
can also be trained to wear a harness and taken for
walks, but you should take great care to avoid dogs
and cats on your walks as they may attack or distress
your rabbit.
Just like toddlers, rabbits benefit from a routine for
feeding, playing and resting. The main thing is to get
into a routine that is easy for you or you may begin to
look at the rabbit as simply one more mess-maker.
Using pets to teach responsibility
Many parents say they want to get a rabbit to teach
their children to be responsible. What usually happens
Alternatively, rabbits can be raised to live exclusively
is that the children lose interest and the rabbit suffers.
as house pets. This will require more time and
The children may feel bad and resent the animal for
patience from you during the early days as the rabbit
the nagging they get from the adult. Often, the rabbit
becomes house trained and is taught what not to
is given away because “you didn’t take care of it”. The
chew (this is perhaps the most difficult bit!). More and
children learn that life is disposable and that if they
more people are keeping “house rabbits” and a
wait long enough, someone else will relieve them of
well-trained and handled house-rabbit is a much more
their responsibility.
entertaining and companionable pet than one confined
to a hutch at the bottom of the garden. A well managed
Let your children help with the rabbit, but don’t insist.
house-rabbit also enjoys a better quality of life.
Small children particularly enjoy the fact that caring for
a pet is something that children and parents can do
No matter how you decide to keep your rabbit, if you
together. The more interest you show and the more
are going to get to know each other you will need to
you help out, the more enthusiastic they are likely to be.
spend time together. If you relegate your rabbit to an
outdoor hutch for most of the day, your family will miss
So, if the children appear interested, encourage them.
getting to know the special personality of the rabbit.
But, if they become bored, let them move on to the
You will be taking on a commitment for five to ten
next thing, and you carry on with the rabbit. They will
years, which will involve your time and your money.
learn most from watching your actions and tone
of voice when you speak to the rabbit. From this they
Unless you are enthusiastic, informed, and committed
will learn about waiting patiently, caring, and enjoying
about what is involved, a stuffed toy is a better
a living creature for what it is – and not what you
choice!
want it to be. It is not easy to manage children and
animals, but when parents find solutions, rather than
Keeping a house rabbit
dispose of an animal for convenience sake, an
Before you set your heart on having a rabbit around
important concept is communicated to the child.
the house, ask yourself if you really want another
“toddler”? Rabbits are a lot like 2-year-old children.
They can be great fun to live with, but you will need to
spend time in toilet-training and must be prepared to
tolerate accidents. You will need to “bunny-proof”
those parts of your house where the rabbit is allowed
to run in exactly the same way as “toddler-proofing”.
You will need to check on your rabbit often and
supervise play with children when the rabbit is out for
exercise. You also need to accept that inevitably, some
of your precious possessions may be partially ruined.
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Choosing your Rabbit
There are more than sixty five different breeds of
Before buying, think how big the rabbit is going to
rabbit ranging in weight from 1kg to 10kg. Some have
grow or if it needs extra care. Smaller rabbits, such
short, velvety fur, (Rex), whilst others have long woolly
as the dwarf breeds, tend to be lively and energetic,
fur, (Angora, Cashmere), which will require a lot of
while the larger, giant breeds are usually less active
grooming. Some have patterned coats with patches,
and more easy going. However, they will need a larger
spots or stripes, (Dutch and English Spot), and there
cage or hutch. The long coats of Angoras and
are rabbits with upright, or floppy ears (the Lop
Cashmeres tangle easily and will need grooming
breeds). With so much choice, it should be easy to
every day.
find a breed you like.
When you go to choose your rabbit, don’t be bowled
over by the first fluffy bunny you see. For younger
children, the larger, more placid breeds that they can’t
pick up, drop or frighten may be more suitable
companions. These larger rabbits usually bond better
with people and are quite happy to sit alongside
you to be stroked. Try to get a rabbit which has been
used to being handled from 2-3 weeks of age as early
socialisation with different adults and children helps a
rabbit develop a sound temperament.
A rabbit which is in good condition when you acquire
it is less likely to present health problems and vet’s
bills later on. Ask to hold the rabbit and check that its
coat is sleek and glossy and its eyes are bright and
have no signs of any discharge. There should be no
visible wounds or abscesses on the body and the
With over sixty five breeds to choose from, you’ll soon
back should be firm, without a protruding spine.
find a bunny you like.
Beware of a rabbit with a runny nose and check for
If you are not too bothered about getting a particular
breed, check the local newspaper and the postcards
in your local newsagents or veterinary practice as
around the tail. If you are in any doubt, find another
litter to choose your rabbit from.
somebody may have a litter to sell or give away.
The best age to acquire a rabbit is when it has just
Rabbits are sold in pet shops and your local animal
been weaned at around eight weeks of age. Give it
rehoming shelter may have litters to find homes for. If
time to get used to its new surroundings at home, then
you really want a specific breed though, you will have
gradually increase the amount of contact with adults
to find a breeder. You should get in contact with your
and children and get it accustomed to being stroked
local rabbit club or go to a local rabbit show, where
and handled regularly.
there are frequently pedigree rabbits for sale.
Alternatively, you could write to Petplan at Great West
House (GW2), Great West Road, Brentford, Middlesex,
TW8 9DX and request a FREE copy of their Rabbit
List, compiled by The British Rabbit Council.
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any signs of diarrhoea, stained or discoloured fur
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Safe Handling and Restraint
The safest way to approach a rabbit is to begin by
A rabbit which has only been handled by women
stroking the top of the head. Do not offer your hand
during the important early stages of its life, may not
for a bunny to sniff at the way you would to a dog,
recognise men or children and may be nervous of
because most seem to find this gesture offensive and
them and show fear or aggression.
may attack. Most rabbits also resist having the tips of
their noses or chins touched. An unacceptable
number of rabbits are injured each year through
inappropriate handling. A frightened, poorly secured
animal will be at great risk of a potentially fatal injury
to itself such as a spinal fracture. The handler can also
To a rabbit, men, women and children all smell
and sound different and it can easily distinguish
between them.
“Trancing”
receive painful scratches if the rabbit is allowed to
It is often said that a rabbit can be “hypnotised” or
kick. Rabbits should generally be picked up with a
“tranced” by laying it on its back across your lap,
firm grip over the loose skin around the neck, always
holding the rear limbs and tipping the head backwards
paying attention to support the rear limbs. This way
until it’s “out.” Initially, the rabbit may struggle, but will
the rabbit will feel secure and will not resent handling
soon relax with perhaps only the hind legs quivering
or examination.
occasionally. The rabbit will come out of this “trance”
as quickly as it went into it, trying to get itself upright
and get away. If you continue restraining the rabbit, it
will simply struggle and may become aggressive.
Don’t think that your rabbit is in a state of total bliss.
When a prey animal such as a rabbit is seized, it will
freeze. By becoming immobile and trying to mimic
successfully killed prey, the rabbit increases its
chances of escaping and is less likely to be seriously
injured. Thinking it has killed its prey, the predator may
relax its grip, which stimulates the rabbit to spring into
life and attempt to escape. If the escape is thwarted,
the rabbit is likely to fight in a last ditch attempt to
escape death.
This is what your rabbit is doing during “trancing”.
That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t do it. It is extremely
useful when cleaning the rabbit’s sensitive areas, like
the face, feet, or under the tail. If the hind feet seem
to be vibrating, touching them will usually stop it.
This technique is well worth learning as it is most
Right from the start you should accustom your rabbit
convenient way to inspect a rabbit’s front teeth.
to being handled by several people of both sexes.
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Living Outdoors
Traditionally rabbits were kept outside all the time but
as people have recognised that they make ideal
companion animals, more and more are being allowed
into the house and many now live inside permanently.
As long as they have exercise, access to sunlight and
an appropriate diet, they will be completely at home!
Here we have described what is required for both
outdoor and indoor living. It’s your choice as to which
lifestyle you decide upon for your rabbit.
Outdoor accommodation
Most hutches are simply too small for a rabbit to live in
permanently and still maintain good health. Rabbits need
to be able to stretch to their full length and height, not to
If you keep your rabbit in a hutch, it should be as large
mention running and jumping. In a small hutch, which
as possible and placed in the shade otherwise your
precludes exercise, they are likely to become bored,
bunny will cook!
depressed and overweight. If they become overweight,
they will be less able to groom themselves and in the heat
of a small hutch, the likelihood of fly-strike increases.
Provide the biggest hutch and run you can.
There are no hard and fast rules as to what a hutch
To prevent escape by burrowing out or intrusion from
potential predators digging in, a run should have a top
and bottom as well as sides. One solution is to use wire
for the base, although this can be hard on a rabbit’s feet.
Another solution is to place the run on paving slabs.
and run should look like. All that is required is a dry
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and draught free area for sleeping, a sheltered area to
Outdoor hazards
keep food dry – and as much exercise and play area
Even a sturdy hutch does not necessarily protect a rabbit
as you can provide. If you can’t find the space,
from predators, such as dogs, cats or foxes. Determined
construct a two or three-story apartment with well-
predators can bend or break wire. Agile ones can open
secured ramps. Bunny will love it.
cage doors. The mere presence of a predator may
Think where you locate the hutch as well. Sunlight is good
trigger an extreme reaction in a rabbit; a panic attack
for rabbits as it helps them to develop strong bones, but to
during which the rabbit runs wildly back and forth,
leave your rabbit’s hutch up against a south-facing wall in
twisting and thrashing about. A rabbit in this state can
the heat of the summer is not a good idea. Bunny will
break its own back, or die from a heart attack. A survivor
cook. It is far better to place the hutch and run in a position
may be permanently disabled, or develop infection from
where the rabbit gets the sun in the morning or evening,
bite or claw wounds.
but is provided with shade during the middle of the day.
It is essential that the wire is strong with no weaknesses
You should also avoid draughty places on the side of the
and that the door to the hutch has a secure fastening.
house which gets the worst of the wind. If the weather
Your rabbit’s sleeping quarters should be well off the
becomes really bad, your outdoor rabbit will be entirely
ground to ensure it is totally out of sight of any potential
happy in its sleeping area as long as you provide some
predator. Placing large diameter clay or plastic drainage
extra insulation by throwing and securing an old piece of
pipes in a rabbit’s run also provides a substitute burrow
carpet or blanket over the hutch.
and gives the rabbit somewhere to play and hide.
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Finally, an insidious danger to a rabbit, which is kept
or fertilisers. Walk the perimeter of your garden and check
permanently out of doors is inattention from its caretaker.
thoroughly for holes in the fence. Under no circumstances
Even though the rabbit is fed, watered, and sheltered,
should rabbits be left outside after dark. Most of its
infrequent observation and handling may mean that health
predators hunt at night, so it should be secured in its hutch
problems go unnoticed until it’s too late.
well before dusk. You should also remember that wild
rabbits may be attracted to the run and they may be
Playtime outside
carrying myxomatosis. Touching noses through the wire
Many people believe that a rabbit allowed to browse in the
may be all that is needed to transmit this killer by the
garden will instinctively avoid poisonous plants. This is not
transfer of fleas.
always the case and if you intend to allow your rabbit to
wander freely around in flower beds, it is advisable to
Poisonous plants to avoid
make a list of all your plants and check it for poisonous
As there are reported cases of pets eating poisonous
ones. Until all poisonous plants are removed, the rabbit
plants and making themselves ill, it is much safer to avoid
should be confined to its run or kept indoors.
the most toxic plants. The Horticultural Trades Association
Always supervise your rabbit when it is running around
outdoors. It takes just a few seconds for the neighbour’s
dog or cat to jump the fence and attack or frighten your
rabbit to death. Before you allow your rabbit on the lawn,
check that the grass has not been sprayed with pesticides
CATEGORY A
Poisonous if eaten. Skin contact commonly
causes sever blistering dermatitis.
Rhus radicans
Rhus succedanea
Rhus verniflua
Poison sumac
CATEGORY B
Toxic if eaten, may cause skin allergy.*
Aconitum Monkshood
Arum*
Atropa Deadly nightshade
Colchicum Autumn crocus
Meadow saffron
Naked ladies
Convallaria majaris Lily-of-the-valley
Daphne laureola
D. mezerum and other species Mezereon
Datura
Dictamnus albus* Burning bush, Dittany
Dieffenbachia* Dumb cane
Leopard lily
Digitalis Foxglove
Gaultheria (section Pernettya only)
Gloriosa superba Glory lily Hysocyamus
Henbane
has a code of practice for its members and most good
nurseries and garden centres label plants and bulbs which
are toxic or cause skin allergies. They group plants into
three categories depending on their toxicity, plants from
categories A and B being the ones to definitely avoid at
all costs:
Laburnum Golden chain
Golden rain
Lantana
Nerium oleander Oleander
Phytolacca Poke root
Poke weed
Primula obconica* German primula
Poison primula
Ricinus communis Castor oil plant
Ruta* Rue
Solanum dulcamara Bittersweet
Woody nightshade
Taxus Yew
Veratrum False hellebore
CATEGORY C
Harmful if eaten/skin allergen.*
Aesculus
Agrostemma
Alstromeria*
Aquilegia
Brugsmansia
Caltha
Catharanthus roseus
Cupressocyparis leylandii*
Delphionium
Dendrathema*
Echium*
Euonymus
Euphorbia*
Ficus carica*
Fremontendron*
Gaultheria
Hedera*
Helleborus
Hyacinthus*
Hypericum perforatum
Ipomoea
Iris
Juniperus sabina
Kalmia
Ligustrum
Lobelia tupa*
Lupinus
Narcissus*
Ornithogalum
Polygonatum
Prunus laurocerasus
Rhamnus
Schefflera*
Scilla
Thuja*
Tulipa*
Wisteria
Needless to say, if your pet appears unwell and you suspect it has eaten
something poisonous, take it straight to your vet. Rabbits cannot vomit
and therefore cannot easily eliminate poisons.
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Living Indoors
Rabbits are territorial even when they are living in your
A slap on the floor next to a misbehaving rabbit and a
home and for indoor living, your rabbit will need as
firm “No” will get the message over; “thumping” being
large a cage as possible. The type which exhibitors
a sign rabbits instinctively recognise. A quick shot from
use at dog shows is ideal and good pet stores will
a water pistol whilst it’s engaged in the unacceptable
usually have a selection to choose from. Many have
behaviour can help. In addition, most pet shops sell
internal plastic trays, which not only protect your floors,
pet repellents such as bitter apple, which can be
but are also kind on the rabbit’s feet. There is nothing
sprayed on objects to deter your rabbit.
worse than a rabbit spending all of its time on its litter
tray to avoid wire floors. Alternatively, line the cage with
Protecting your rabbit from harm
cardboard, but don’t be surprised if your rabbit
Rabbits have an instinct to quickly and casually sever
destroys it every so often.
any cable they encounter. Special temptations are
A house rabbit often finds its cage a safe haven, returning
those which run across the rabbit’s path, or through
there to eat or rest. For psychological security a
a burrow-like area, such as behind a settee.
cardboard box lined with straw or a synthetic fleece
“Bunny- proofing” means encasing electric cables in
may be added to the cage. Make the cage enjoyable
heavy-duty plastic tubing and blocking the runs behind
and they will enjoy being there, even when the door is
furniture so the rabbit cannot use them. It is the single
open. Keep it stocked with toys and things to chew.
most important step in preparing an indoor area for a
Any rabbit, even a seemingly well-behaved one, should
rabbit since they can be badly burned or electrocuted.
probably be kept in a cage while you’re not home to
The consequences of biting into an electric wire are
supervise and at night when you sleep. When you put
too severe to risk relying on training alone.
it to bed at night, give it a vegetable or fruit snack.
A rabbit’s tendency to chew is often more inconvenient
than hazardous. To prevent your rabbit chewing on
Bunny-proofing
your things, provide natural alternatives such as wood,
The more an indoor, toilet-trained rabbit is allowed to
cardboard, untreated straw mats, cardboard boxes,
mingle with its human family and other pets, the more
the inside of toilet rolls etc.
it will express its personality and be enjoyed for it.
But, if you are going to allow your rabbit to run in your
home even for short periods, it is essential that you
bunny-proof the environment. This is essential to
prevent damage to your property and to protect your
rabbit from injuring itself.
Some house plants are poisonous. Putting them on
high furniture may not keep a rabbit away.
Hang them from the ceiling if you have a particularly
active bunny, but watch for falling leaves! If you are
unsure, consult a good reference book.
If a rabbit insists on chewing skirting boards, legs of
chairs and the edges of carpets, condition them to
stop and immediately provide them with an alternative
such as a piece of root vegetable or edible wood.
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Before your rabbit comes indoors you need to bunny-proof
your home, particularly power cables.
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Toys
Toys are important because they provide:
Playtime indoors
Mental stimulation
When your rabbit is better trained and your house (or
the part that your rabbit will have access to) has been
sufficiently bunny-proofed, your rabbit can be allowed
to run out of its cage. The more room your rabbit has
to run around in, the more delightful you will find it as a
companion. Even when a rabbit has a lot of room to
run around, he may still get bored. A bored rabbit is
often a naughty rabbit. If you don’t make every attempt
to provide your rabbit with lots of entertainment and
toys, then it will make its own entertainment with your
belongings.
Without challenging activities to occupy your rabbit
when you’re not home, it will get bored. This could lead
to it becoming depressed or destructive. Providing toys
will keep your rabbit interested in its surroundings,
particularly if it is a solitary rabbit.
Physical exercise
Your rabbit needs safe activities to keep it in good
physical shape and to prevent it from becoming
overweight. It needs things to climb on, crawl under,
hop on and around, dig into, and chew on. Without
outlets for these physical needs, besides gaining
weight, your rabbit may create its own diversions with
your furniture and carpets.
Alternatives to your prized possessions
As is clear from the above descriptions, toys are not
just for your rabbit, they also keep your house safe. By
providing your rabbit with a selection of toys, they are
less likely to get themselves into trouble in your home.
Suitable bunny toys
• Paper bags and cardboard boxes for crawling
inside, scratching, and chewing. Bunnies like them
much more when there are at least two entry
Rabbits are crepuscular, which means that generally
they sleep during the day, but are ready to play at
dawn and at twilight. Be sure to let them out during the
evening when you are home, and if possible, in the
morning while you get ready for work.
Because companion rabbits behave boldly at times,
caretakers may need to be reminded that rabbits are
fragile animals. Fracture of the spine can occur if the
rabbit struggles while inadequately supported. The
technique for safe handling needs to be practiced.
The adult caretaker must also protect the rabbit from
rough handling by small children, and from rough play
with other pets. A dog should always be supervised
when playing with a rabbit.
points into the boxes.
• Cardboard rolls from paper towels or toilet paper
• Untreated wicker baskets or boxes full of shredded
paper, junk mail minus the wrapping, magazines
with the staples removed, straw, or other organic
materials for digging in.
They’re intelligent
little creatures and
need the stimulation
of toys and human
company.
• Pieces of edible wood such as apple, pear, willow
or hazel.
• Telephone directories for shredding.
• Carrots, or pieces of root vegetable suspended on
a string
• Cat or parrot toys that can be tossed, or hung from
the top of the cage and chewed.
• Toys with ramps and lookouts for climbing on and
viewing the world. Rabbits love to have a lookout.
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Toilet Training
Rabbits are by nature clean animals and in the wild
a urinary tract infection, bladder stones, kidney disease
use separate latrine areas not far from their burrows.
or some other illness, which should be treated by a
In a confined space, they will usually choose a distinct
vet. Sometimes the introduction of another rabbit can
spot like a corner to deposit their urine and most of
lead to a renewed bout of spraying and territory
their droppings. Consequently, toilet training is usually
marking, which only stops once they have established
very easy and involves little more than putting a litter
a harmonious relationship.
tray where the rabbit chooses to go. This tends to be
Litter should be non-toxic, dust free and absorbent,
close to their feeding area and many rabbits will
but not to the extent that it goes into large clumps
happily eat whilst sitting on their litter tray.
once it’s damp. Rabbits spend a lot of their time on
The easiest way to litter train a rabbit is to place it in a
their litter tray and will always nibble some of it, so
confined space such as a run or an indoor cage, with
toxic litter or the clay-based type, which could swell up
its food and litter tray next to each other. The rabbit
to several times its original size in your rabbit’s
will happily sit in the tray to defecate and urinate soon
stomach should be avoided. Rabbit urine also has a
after eating. Initially, it may be necessary to place
very strong smell and can irritate your rabbit’s skin, so
some droppings in the tray to get the rabbit used to
it is important to choose a good absorbent litter, but
the idea. Once the habit is established, gradually
avoid dusty litters which may irritate a rabbit’s eyes or
enlarge the area and you should find that the rabbit is
nose. For these reasons, it is probably better to use an
happy to return to the tray.
organic litter.
Most rabbits quickly get the idea, especially if you
keep an eye on them and herd them towards the tray
Cleaning and disposal
in their early days. However you may encounter
Keep the litter tray clean to encourage your rabbit to
problems when your rabbit reaches the age of 4-6
use it. Most pet shops sell deodorising cleaning fluid
months at which time their hormones become active
for pet trays, but for tough stains you may need to
and they usually begin marking their territory. By
leave the tray to soak. Accidents within the home can
spaying or neutering your rabbit, it will be more likely
be cleaned up with a commercial bactericidal
to use the litter tray as well as being much healthier
cleansing agent although occasionally a stain remover
and happier.
and deodoriser may be required. Organic litters can
Some rabbits love to kick their litter out of the tray.
be applied to the garden as a mulch, or can be
You can get covered litter trays, which the rabbit might
composted. Rabbit droppings are about the only pet
accept. On the other hand, it may consider that the
waste that can be safely used this way.
cover makes the tray into a burrow, which it wouldn’t
Finally, if you haven’t kept a rabbit before, you may be
normally soil in and refuse to use the tray altogether. If
surprised and revolted to see your rabbit eating its
this happens, try a tray with high sides. Another
droppings. There is no reason to be alarmed or
problem is that rabbits often back up so far in the litter
disgusted. The material you see your rabbit eating are
tray that the urine goes over the edge. Again, a
caecotropes, partially digested particles sealed in a
covered litter tray or one with higher sides may solve
coating of colic mucus, which are fermenting and from
this problem.
which the rabbit will get more nutrients as they are
Your rabbit may sometimes regress and stop using the
ingested again.
litter tray altogether. This can indicate the presence of
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Rabbits are remarkably easy to litter train.
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Feeding your Rabbit
Rabbits have a unique digestive system that has
developed to suit a high fibre, low protein and low
energy diet. As pet owners, we like to think we are
doing the best for our rabbits and are all too ready to
provide them with a diet that is too rich and contains
insufficient roughage.
Grass and hay
In the wild, rabbits spend many hours each day
devouring grasses, the availability and nutritional value
of their diet slowly changing with the seasons. Not only
does a wild rabbit’s diet provide most of the nourishment
and roughage they require, it also helps keep their
A diet of scientifically prepared rabbit food with a
teeth trim. A scientifically developed complete rabbit
constant supply of grass or hay together with a small
food will contain ingredients such as alfalfa which is
selection of fresh fruit and vegetables and a constant
high in fibre and will make your rabbit work at digesting
supply of water is all that a rabbit needs. Anything
its food. However, you should also provide a constant
beyond that is ‘a treat’ and should be given in limited
supply of grass or hay for your rabbit to eat whenever
quantities, completely avoiding sweets and chocolate,
it wishes.
which build up harmful bacteria in the rabbit gut and
Undoubtedly, one of the best ways to allow a rabbit
can kill.
access to grass is by using a portable run which can
Complete rabbit foods
be moved around an area of fresh, medium length
grass, although in practice this often proves difficult in
By feeding a complete food which is specifically
the average garden. There’s nothing wrong with having
prepared for rabbits, you can be sure that your rabbit
a portable run on the lawn but you will need to guarantee
is getting everything it needs in terms of fibre, protein,
that it’s free from weedkillers and chemicals. You
minerals and carbohydrates. It is vital that the food is
should also introduce your rabbit to grass slowly,
high in fibre so that your rabbit gets to do a lot of
allowing it no more than 10 minutes grazing on the
chewing and rich in calcium to keep its teeth and
first day and building up the time slowly over a period
bones strong. Prepared rabbit foods contain a mixture
of a week.
of cereals and pellets made up of crushed vegetation
such as alfalfa with added calcium and vitamins.
There are many types available and it is always
advisable to choose one which has been specially
formulated in accordance with the National Research
Council’s guidelines for rabbit nutrition.
Of course, a complete food is only complete if your
rabbit eats it all. If you feed a complete food and your
rabbit is continually leaving the same ingredients each
day, then don’t keep throwing them away and refilling
the bowl. Offer a small portion and leave the discarded
ingredients in the bowls until they are all eaten. Only by
doing this will your rabbit get a truly balanced diet.
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Good quality hay is a totally acceptable alternative,
but you should make sure that it is fresh and sweet
smelling as old hay tends to be low in calcium and can
often be laden with mites and fungal spores. Your nose
will tell you when it’s off!
You should also try your rabbit with commercially
prepared, dried fresh grass. It is made for feeding to
horses and can be bought from an agricultural feed
merchant or a good pet superstore.
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Vegetables
Water
Look to provide your rabbit with a small amounts of
Your rabbit should have access to fresh water 24 hours
different leafed and rooted vegetables, but stay away
a day. If you keep your rabbit in an outside hutch
from beans and rhubarb. Never give vegetables that
throughout the winter, change the water twice or three
have come straight out of the fridge as they can cause
times a day to prevent it freezing.
quite a shock to your rabbit’s system. Always wait until
they are at room temperature.
Once your rabbit is established on a diet, try to keep to
it. If you want to change to different food, do so over a
Many rabbits have too low a calcium intake resulting in
period of a few days, starting by mixing small quantities
brittle bones and teeth. Feeding green stuff such as
of the new food with its existing food.
fresh grass, cabbage leaves and dandelion leaves can
help correct this. However, feeding too much green
stuff invariably results in soft stools indicating an
imbalance in the gut flora. If this happens, stop feeding
the vegetables immediately, clean the rabbit’s rear end
daily and be prepared to visit the vet if it doesn’t
clean up within a couple of days.
Treats
It’s only natural to want to give your cute little
whiskered rabbit a treat and the pet stores are full of
them. But think before you rush out and buy them.
Treats made of seeds and grains held together into
sticks with honey and other sugars are bad for rabbits
if they are given too frequently. Seeds are high in fat
and are important for wintering animals. Your rabbit
has no such need. A rabbit’s metabolism is geared for
a low fat diet and the excess is not burned off but is
stored as body fat. Rabbits appear to be more sensitive
to fat than are humans, and in addition to obesity, the
excess fat can accumulate in your rabbit’s liver and
arteries.
So next time you are tempted to buy your rabbit treats,
read the labels and make sure that the constituents
may be doing the rabbit some good. Otherwise, how
about an especially big carrot, a piece of fresh apple
wood or a hard baked bread crust to chew on?
Feeding is easy too. Grass or good quality hay and
a selection of fresh food (or a nutritionally balanced
complete rabbit food) and a constant supply of water
are all that’s required.
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Training your Rabbit
Although training may seem a bit of an over ambitious
word to use in the context of a rabbit, it is none the
less appropriate. If you take the time to understand
the needs of your rabbit and to interact with it, you are
more likely to get on better together.
Deterring chewing
If the rabbit starts to chew on something you don’t
want it to, immediately offer as many other things that
are okay to chew on as you can. Block whatever it was
chewing on so it ceases to be a temptation. If possible,
Isn’t that what training is all about? It is easier to train
provide something with a similar (or better) taste and
rabbits if you understand that their behaviour is usually
texture to what is being chewed. For example, a piece
motivated by one of three things:
of edible wood such as an apple branch, instead of a
chair leg.
• Their natural inclinations to chew and dig.
• Their need to communicate.
• The social structure as seen by rabbits, in
which all members of the family are in the
pecking (or nipping) order.
During the training time, do nothing but concentrate
on your rabbit. Open the door to its cage and allow
it to come out when it chooses. You may offer toys or
treats from your hand, but don’t interfere if it simply
wants to explore. Whatever it decides to do, keep a
careful eye on it throughout the time it is out of its cage.
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Deterring digging
The same applies to digging. If the rabbit loves to dig
in the carpet, provide it with a digging box. This is no
more than a good sized cardboard box, sealed at the
ends with a hole cut in one of the longer sides. The
rabbit will go in and turn so its body runs the length
of the box and the digging material will be flung
against the sealed end of the box and remain contained.
Use something totally dust-free and safe in the digging
box, such as paper or straw. Rabbits, being the incredibly
intelligent little creatures that they are, will quickly learn
how to use it and your carpet is saved for another day.
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Communicating Without Words
Rabbits need to communicate with you, their
encourage its enjoyment in being with you. And if it
companion. But take it from us, they are unlikely to
happens not to enjoy such activities, so be it. Respect
use words. You have to use their language. One
and enjoy your rabbit for what it is.
obvious example of such communication is struggling
when they are picked up. This is simply and obviously
saying “I don’t like being picked up! Put me down!
PLEASE put me down! I don’t feel safe when you try
to control me this way!”
A rabbit that enjoys sitting on your lap and being
stroked may nip you sharply if you get distracted
enough to stop the stroking. It isn’t trying to hurt you,
just to remind you that it expects you to get back to
the job at hand. When a rabbit nips in an effort to
There are few instances where it is appropriate for
communicate appropriately such as in this case, it
people to force their will on a companion of another
probably doesn’t realise how painful it is nor how
species in this way. Obviously, if a rabbit’s teeth must
severe the resulting bruise may be. Try screeching to
be examined or trimmed because of malocclusion,
let the rabbit know that he really hurt you. The squeal
it is necessary to hold it against its will. But it is
should be loud, sudden, and high enough to startle
inexcusable for companions of one species to force
the rabbit slightly. The next time it nips you will be
their wills on those of another just to satisfy their own
surprised at how much gentler it will be. Continue
desires. If you want a rabbit who enjoys jumping on
to squeal when nipped, until the nip is gentle enough
your lap and being stroked, teach him to trust you,
to cause no pain or bruising.
by never grabbing or holding it against its will when
it comes to you. Use treats, nose-to-nose-touching,
chin-rubbing (your chin on the rabbit’s face), rubbing
around the ears, or whatever it seems to like to
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Your Rabbit in your Social Structure
Any rabbit wants to be top-rabbit and your goal is
cage, shaking the “bars” and flinging itself around,
to convince it that you are top-rabbit. This is not the
ignore it. After it quietens down, it can come out
same thing as forcing your will on it in a manner
again. If it continues to try to force you from your seat,
that ignores its needs and desires. Your rabbit will
however, it may need to stay in its room (cage) until
quite happily accept you as top-rabbit and itself as
the next time it would normally be allowed out. This
subordinate, once it sees you as the naturally
same general method applies whenever a rabbit
dominant one. It even makes it easier for you to carry
attempts to dominate you. It will be much happier
out your role as caretaker. If a rabbit jumps onto the
when it learns that you are top-rabbit and it isn’t.
couch where you are sitting and nips you deliberately,
it is probably trying to take the couch for its own.
This is “inappropriate nipping.”
your part. It isn’t just teaching the word “No”, which
will only condition the rabbit to wait until the human
Not only should you screech, but you should firmly,
isn’t looking. It’s learning to understand the rabbit’s
though gently, return the rabbit to the floor with a
likes and dislikes, working to provide things he
sharp “No!” If it jumps back up and doesn’t nip you,
really enjoys and encouraging and rewarding good
it’s learned that it can share the couch, but not drive
behaviour. Enjoy your rabbit. Train it well and
you off. If it jumps back up and nips again, you repeat
appreciate it for what it is.
the screech, the “No!” and return it to the floor. If it
comes back a third time with a nip, it is time for it to
“go to its room”. Herd it back to its cage for a five
minute time-out. If it throws a temper tantrum in the
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Training a rabbit requires time, effort, and thought on
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Preventing Infectious Diseases
Three important diseases are seen all too frequently
Both of these diseases are spread by insects, fleas or
in rabbits. Two of these are caused by viruses. You
directly from an infected rabbit. A pet rabbit in a hutch
should insure that your rabbit is vaccinated against
can come into direct contact with a wild rabbit and
these. Vaccination is no more than the administration
inquisitively touch noses through the wire and even a
of a modified live, or killed form of an infection, but it
rabbit which lives permanently in the house is by no
does not cause an illness in your rabbit. Instead, it
means safe. Each year, your vet will vaccinate your
stimulates the formation of antibodies against the
rabbit against these two diseases.
disease itself, preventing the vaccinated rabbit from
developing the disease. Rabbits should be vaccinated
The other important disease is caused by the bacterium
every year against myxomatosis and the more recently
Pasteurella. This can cause a variety of diseases from
discovered viral haemorrhagic disease, (VHD). This
the respiratory condition called “snuffles” through to
is a particularly nasty disease, where the rabbits
abscesses of the skin or internal organs. There is little
becomes severely ill with internal bleeding in the
that can be done to guard against this, but rabbits in
lungs, gut and urinary tract. Death usually occurs
good health with a strong immune system are unlikely
very quickly and in a lot of cases, the rabbit is simply
to be affected, so good husbandry and regular
found dead in its hutch.
veterinary checks are vital.
You should keep your rabbit vaccinated
every year against myxomatosis and viral
haemorrhagic disease.
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Spaying and Neutering
There are many good reasons why you should consider
supply of your rabbit’s favourite food so they continue to
having your rabbit spayed or neutered:
eat. Check the incision every morning and evening
Neutered rabbits live longer than
un-neutered rabbits.
to make sure the stitches are intact and there are no
signs of infection. If in doubt, consult your vet.
Research has shown that more than 80% of unspayed
females develop ovarian or uterine cancers by the age of
five years. This risk is virtually eliminated by spaying your
female rabbit. Your neutered male is likely to live longer
as well, as he is more likely to lead a less aggressive,
less stressful life.
Neutered rabbits make better
companions.
Once the urge to mate has been permanently removed,
rabbits are calmer and less prone to aggressive or
destructive behaviour.
Neutered rabbits indulge in less obnoxious
behaviour.
Once neutered, your male rabbit will generally stop
spraying. Both males and females are easier to litter train
once they are neutered and are less likely to regress.
Neutered rabbits are much more friendly
towards other rabbits
Rabbits enjoy the companionship of other rabbits,
but unless they are neutered, having a friend of the
same sex or the opposite sex is difficult due to
aggressive behaviour or mating and having a possible
unwanted litter.
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Besides preventing unwanted litters, neutering helps
a rabbit settle down better and reduces aggression.
Aggression
Bunnies are supposed to be timid and cuddly and
people are often shocked the first time they see a rabbit
displaying aggression. A sudden nip from sharp teeth or
raking claws can be disarming, but this is normal
behaviour and it should not be met with despair.
Females can be spayed as soon as they reach sexual
Aggressive rabbits are often very intelligent animals who
maturity around four months of age, although most vets
are usually just plain frightened. This can be due to any
will recommend waiting until six months of age. Males
number of factors. They may have had insufficient
can be neutered as soon as the testicles descend
handling and socialisation during their first few weeks
around 3-4 months of age. Again, most veterinary
of life. They could have had a nasty experience such as
practices prefer to wait until the rabbit is six months old.
being dropped or poorly handled. Alternatively, they may
Surgery is a relatively simple procedure and is becoming
simply be stressed either due to their hormones or
increasingly common. Your vet will discuss how you
something going on around them.
should look after your rabbit after surgery. The most
An aggressive rabbit can be quite frightening, especially
important thing is to keep your rabbit quiet and rested
for a child. Their bite can be vicious and their scratches
and away from other rabbits. Provide water, hay and a
deep, so it’s quite normal for owners to get intimidated
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and start to consider returning the rabbit back to the
animal rescue centre. But before you give up on your
rabbit, consider the following:
•
•
• Biting your hand when you reach into your rabbit’s
cage is also rational behaviour for a rabbit. Rabbits
can be very territorial, so you should never drag one
Rabbits aren’t born mean. Most aggression is a
out of its own private space. Open the door and let
behavioural problem rather than a genetic one and
it come out in its own time. Don’t attempt to lift the
behaviour can be changed, so give yourself and
rabbit, simply touch it and talk to it at every
your rabbit a chance.
opportunity. Feeding it small, frequent meals will
Your rabbit doesn’t hate you. It might have taken a
give you lots of opportunities where you can interact
particular dislike to one person, but the chances are
while the rabbit is busy feeding and you can try to
that it is simply afraid you’re going to hurt it.
get the rabbit to take food from your hand.
• Accept that you’re the only one who can solve the
If you need confidence, wear strong gardening gloves so
problem. Your rabbit is unlikely to wake up one day
that you don’t wave your hands around and provoke
and decide to be nicer to you. It’s you who has to
it to attack. Eventually the rabbit will associate your visits
figure out what’s wrong and develop new ways of
with food, a nice stroke and a nose rub. If you try to stop
interacting.
a rabbit from misbehaving, it may turn and nip your
• You can’t hit a rabbit. Some people try to “teach”
hand. It’s simply telling you that you’re bugging it and
their rabbits not to bite by swatting them with
trying to tell you to get out of its way. It’s perfectly
newspapers. This will only aggravate the problem.
understandable. If it persists, it’s probably time for “time
out” and confining it to its cage for a while.
Managing aggression
The first step in helping an aggressive rabbit is figuring
out what’s making it aggressive.
This behaviour can manifest itself in many different
ways:
• Circling your feet, mounting and biting ankles are
signs of a sexually frustrated bunny. Females can
also be very protective of their cages in spring and
summer when they would normally be sexually
active. Neutering males and spaying females can
dramatically reduce aggression.
• Lunging at hands and nipping fingers is
explicable. Rabbits have great long-distance
eyesight, but their near-distance vision isn’t so great.
A hand placed suddenly in front a rabbit’s face can
be very startling for it. Move gently and slowly, trying
to keep your hands above the rabbit’s head and
away from its nose.
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Should you have
more than one Rabbit?
There are few generalisations that can safely be applied
well as male/female pairs. Neither should you house
to the rabbits. Only one truth remains unchallenged:
more than one male with a single female, nor two males
Rabbits are not meant to live in solitude, away from
where they can smell un-neutered females. It is often
members of their own kind. Like humans and many
said that a rabbit and a guinea pig make a good pairing.
other creatures, European wild rabbits, the ancestors to
In practice, this is rarely true as the rabbit tends to
our domestic rabbits, live in groups. A community or
harrass and dominate the guinea pig.
warren may number a hundred individuals working
together to create, maintain and peacefully share a
network of tunnels. Their lives include daily cooperation
to find food, watch for and warn of predators, and raise
their young.
This need for companionship can be partially met by a
human, but once you live with a bonded pair you will see
that even the most devoted human does not quite fill the
bill. Bonded pairs are rarely out of each other’s sight.
Rabbits interact with each other constantly, not so much
with sounds as with movements. There are large
movements such as dancing and grooming, and there
are quite small communications of breath and slight
shifts in position. You can sense some of this quiet
conversation by lying on the floor beside two talkative
rabbits.
Fortunately for all of us, what’s good for a rabbit is also
good for us humans. Pairs are much easier to care for,
get into far less trouble and tend to relate better to
people. Boredom in a rabbit leads to trouble, and pairs
don’t get nearly as bored because they are so busy
relating to each other. Boredom and depression are
common symptoms of loneliness in rabbits. These can
be accompanied by destructiveness and hyperactivity in
some rabbits, especially the smaller breeds, and
withdrawal in others.
Being social animals, they benefit from
being kept as pairs – neutered of course!
Two rabbits are generally not more expensive than one.
Hay, fresh vegetables and litter for two puts little
additional strain on the budget. The exception is
veterinary care. Both must be spayed or neutered and
even if you start with a spayed/neutered pair, one or
both rabbits may become ill and require a visit
to your local practice.
Introducing two rabbits requires planning and
supervising as the pairing is equally likely to result in
Suitable pairings
Unless you are intent on breeding, un-neutered rabbits
of the opposite sexes should never be with one another.
In addition to preventing a possibly unwanted litter,
neutering makes for smooth introductions and better
long-term relationships between same-sex partners as
20
dramatic hostility or life long devotion. If rabbits make it
through the introductory phase, the bonded pair will
usually become devoted to each other, so much so that
care must be taken when one rabbit dies, leaving a
grieving survivor. Bereaved rabbits often accept a new
friend more readily than a rabbit that has never had
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a partner, a tribute to both the resilience and the
breeder or an animal rehoming centre and trying it out
sociability of rabbits.
with a few potential companions.
The best way to introduce two rabbits is on neutral
Both of you need to accept that there may be some risk
territory. You should never put a male or female into
of picking up diseases from each other. A water pistol to
another female’s territory as they will fight. It is also said
put a stop to any possible fighting comes in handy but
that you should let your rabbit choose its own
we are told that it is very easy to recognise when your
companion. This involves taking your rabbit along to a
rabbit has made up its mind and chosen its companion.
Grooming & Routine Care
Longhaired breeds such as Angoras need daily
Older rabbits or overweight rabbits may have difficulty in
brushing but any rabbit will benefit from regular
grooming themselves and their coat may become
grooming. It gives you the chance to check them over
matted. Rabbit skin is delicate, so mats should not be
thoroughly and it gets them used to being handled.
cut off with scissors. Instead, use a mat rake and gently
Rabbits are fastidious groomers. They like to be clean
take the mass apart.
and tidy and lick themselves just like cats. They can get
Scratchy, flaky skin with bald patches is usually a
hairballs if they ingest too much hair, but unlike cats,
symptom of skin mites or an allergic reaction to fleas.
rabbits cannot vomit. If hairballs are allowed to form,
Fleas tend to cluster around the neck and head where
they can become gigantic masses of tangled hair & food
you may find the black specks that are their excreta. The
and will block the stomach exit, causing the rabbit to
rabbit fur mite causes a very scurfy, itchy skin complaint
starve to death while his stomach appears to be very fat.
with accompanying loss of fur. The mites are white and
If your rabbit goes off its food for no apparent reason,
just visible to the naked eye. On a black surface, they
consult your vet immediately.
look like “walking dandruff”. In each instance, consult
Rabbits need to be brushed at least weekly. In addition
your vet.
to removing any loose hair, a weekly brushing session
prepares them for the multiple daily brushing that they
Feet and Nails
must undergo when their heavy shedding begins.
Rabbits who spend all of their time inside with carpeting
Rabbits will shed in different ways. Some rabbits will
and linoleum will need to have their toenails trimmed, in
take a couple of weeks or more to lose their old coat.
the same way as dogs and cats. Left untrimmed, a
Other rabbits will be ready to get rid of their old coats all
rabbit’s nails can grow to be very long and sharp and
in one day and these rabbits are the ones that cannot be
will be uncomfortable for the rabbit. If the rabbit has light
neglected once they start shedding. You can often
coloured nails they are very easy to trim. You can see
remove a very large percentage of hair by just pulling it
the blood inside the nail and you clip just before that
out with your hand. But, however you remove it, do it as
point, towards the tips of the nail. With dark coloured
soon as possible or your rabbit will do it during its own
nails, its usually slightly harder, but rarely impossible to
grooming sessions. Bald spots on rabbits are quite
see where they should be clipped. Your vet will show
common when they are shedding, but they will begin to
you how to do this and with time you may gain the
grow back within a week or two.
confidence to do it yourself.
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If the padding (fur) on the feet is worn down, exposing
being the best way of doing this. At the first signs that
inflamed or calloused skin, then a soft fleece should
the teeth are growing too long or becoming
be provided for the rabbit to rest on. Exposed skin that
misaligned, consult your vet.
becomes urine burned or broken is very likely to
Rabbits with straight teeth will keep them worn down
become infected. If this happens, take extra care that
with everyday gnawing and chewing as long as their
rugs and litter trays are kept clean and dry.
diet is rich in grass or hay. In the wild, rabbits spend
Incontinence and diarrhoea
grass, which is their main diet. If they are denied this
A rabbit with a urinary infection or a disabled older
opportunity when kept as pets, even a rabbit with
rabbit may not be able to project urine away from the
perfectly aligned teeth may develop problems.
body. The result may be saturated fur around the
Rabbits with malocclusions, overgrown or crooked
hindquarters. Consult your vet who may recommend
teeth, will need to have them kept trimmed by your vet
that the area is shaved so the skin can dry. Daily
who will burr them with a small drill or grinding wheel
rinsing of the area may also benefit the rabbit.
and sometimes may even extract them. You will be
Diarrhoea can be a severe problem in rabbits and is
surprised how well your rabbit copes without them. If
frequently associated with an inappropriate diet.
teeth are left untreated, the rabbit will not be able to
Parasites can also cause diarrhoea, especially
eat and could starve to death.
protozoa. Worms in the intestine do not appear to
Overgrown teeth can eventually force their way
cause much of a problem in rabbits, although they can
upwards into the rabbit’s eye socket or nasal passage,
be hosts to the dog or cat tapeworm, so make sure
causing severe pain and infection. By the time this is
that any grass your rabbit grazes on is clear of dog
usually detected, there is little that can be done for the
and cat faeces. More acute diarrhoea can be treated if
animal and euthanasia is the only option.
it is caught early and treated intensively. This usually
Changing your rabbit’s diet to include more grass and
involves the administration of intravenous fluids as
hay may help keep teeth in shape, but many dental
dehydration is a major problem in a squitty rabbit!
problems are due to non-selective breeding and low
Consult your vet if you notice early signs of a problem.
calcium intake during the rabbit’s early development.
Ears
Ears should be wiped out every week, removing any
wax that can be seen. If there are any signs of
infection or infestation by ear mites, consult your vet.
Teeth
Rabbit’s teeth grow continuously and teeth that do not
meet perfectly overgrow each other. If the incisor teeth
at the front of the mouth overgrow, this is obvious and
stops the rabbit eating. The same is true of overgrown
molar teeth at the back of the mouth, which often
develop sharp edges and spikes to them causing
painful mouth ulcers. In such a state, your rabbit will
also go off its food, and often saliva dribbles from the
mouth in a condition known as “slobbers”.
Teeth should therefore be checked to ensure that they
are wearing down properly; the “trancing” technique
22
many hours each day grinding their teeth down on
In such cases, the teeth will need to be burred
routinely for the remainder of the rabbit’s life.
Alternatively they may be extracted.
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The Weekly Dental Check
Check the head and face
Check the cheek teeth.
With your rabbit sitting in front of and facing away
The rabbit’s molars or cheek teeth are too far back in
from you, feel along the sides of its face and under the
the mouth to be easily checked visually.
jaw applying a light pressure. The sides should feel
equal, and there should be no bulges or swellings that
aren’t symmetrical.
For this reason, you should have your vet give your
rabbit a complete dental check every year. In between
times, you can watch for secondary signs of cheek-
Apply slightly firmer pressure to the sides of the jaws.
tooth pain such as:
If your rabbit repeatedly flinches when you reach a
• Drooling or wetness around the mouth.
• Swelling, warmth or pain around the jaw or under
certain spot, it may mean there is painful spot inside
the mouth.
The underside of the chin is a very ticklish spot for
many rabbits, and the scent gland located here can
make it feel slightly irregular or bumpy.
Learn how much touching of this area your rabbit
usually allows, and how it feels when normal; changes
may indicate a developing problem.
Check the incisor teeth
The incisor teeth at the front of the mouth are easy to
the chin.
• Changes in the type of food your rabbit prefers,
especially from harder to softer foods.
• Showing interest in food, but not eating.
• Weight loss.
• Bad odour from the mouth.
• Grinding teeth (not the happy purring sounds
which many rabbits make).
• Reclusive or grumpy behaviour.
see and examine. With your rabbit either on its back or
sitting facing away from you, gently part the lips to
make it “smile.”
If it is sitting, use your body to prevent it from backing
up. The four large teeth you see (two top and two
bottom) are the incisor teeth. Check that they are not
loose and that the gum tissue is pink and healthy
rather than red or purple.
Check to make sure that the teeth meet and wear
correctly. Malocclusion (teeth that don’t meet
properly) allows teeth to overgrow and need frequent
trimming by your vet.
Providing a rabbit with malocclusion with things to
chew will not alleviate the problem. If in doubt, consult
your vet.
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Fly Strike
Although the subject may offend, this warm-weather
Even if the maggots are small and few in number, hurry
danger is common and is ignored at your peril. Flies
straight to your vet. Time is of the essence.
can strike a healthy animal, but older, ill, disabled or
overweight rabbits are more at risk. Within 24-hours,
Prevention
an otherwise stable rabbit can be stricken with a
• Maintain the utmost hygiene in the hutch or cage.
maggot infestation. The underlying cause is usually
Attend to it daily, refreshing soiled bedding and
faecal or urine contamination of the coat due to the
clean it thoroughly at least every week. The bigger
rabbit either not grooming itself or not practising
the hutch the better. Small soiled hutches, where
caecotrophy. This is commonly related to dental
there is little free movement of air, become
problems or poor diet which gives rise to soft stools
breeding grounds for flies in warm weather.
and contamination of the coat.
If a rabbit gets fly-strike, it is normal for the owner to
feel guilty. We blame ourselves for not being vigilant.
Often a stricken rabbit is exceptionally well cared for.
They simply have had loose stools or a urinary
problem that would have benefited from frequent
bathing. Moisture, warmth, and odours attract flies.
If open sores are present, or if thick fur is dampened
with urine or faeces, flies will head towards these
warm areas to lay their eggs. The chances are greater
if the rabbit is outside in a confined hutch, but it only
hutch or cage by using chemical insecticides may
damage the rabbit and you, just as much as the
flies. It is probably better to try and make the
environment around the rabbit as hostile as
possible to egg-laying flies. This means keeping it
spotlessly clean and disposing of soiled bedding
and litter immediately.
• Keep the environment clean and dry. That includes
your rabbit’s rear end, which you can clean with a
takes one fly to do the damage, which can be
spot cleanser for softening and removing any
considerable.
faeces stuck to the hindquarters. Your vet can
Maggots do not stop at the surface. Once they have
advise you what to use. If hindquarters are a
consumed the external debris, they continue into the
recurring problem, your vet may even suggest
sound flesh (sometimes up the back where you don’t
keeping them short shaved.
see it), and often into the anus. Once into sound flesh,
they produce the toxins that create a state of shock
and perhaps even death.
The warning signs
You should inspect your rabbit at least every other day
and more often in warmer weather. Comb through the
fur, looking for anything amiss. Pay attention to the
general appearance of the rabbit too. Look out for
signs of twitching which may indicate an irritation in
the coat. Listlessness is never a good sign in a rabbit.
It usually means something is seriously wrong. In the
case of fly strike, the rabbit may already be in shock.
24
• Trying to eradicate flies from the area around the
This will also enable you to get to these areas with
your cleaning solutions. If your rabbit’s problem is
urine soaked fur rather than faeces, your vet can
advise on this as well. In summer, check your
rabbit’s rear end every day, no matter how
healthy it appears to be.
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Healthcare
By feeding your rabbit well, ensuring it has its
Pet insurance can give you the reassurance that, if the
preventative vaccinations and taking the time to groom
worst should happen, paying for it won’t be a problem
it and check it over each week, your rabbit should
for you. Today, nearly one million pet owners have
enjoy good health and a long life. Develop a good
already chosen pet insurance, with Petplan trusted by
relationship with your local veterinary practice so that
far more pet owners than any other insurance
they see your rabbit regularly and are able to prevent
specialist. For less than half the cost of a daily
any problems at their earliest signs.
newspaper, you know that, whatever treatment is
Vets are increasingly able to provide sophisticated
treatment for rabbits, which means they are able to
necessary, you won’t have to face an agonising choice
– you simply send the bill to Petplan.
benefit from the same levels of care that other
You’ll find Petplan in virtually every veterinary practice
companion animals such as dogs and cats have access
in the UK. That’s because vets trust us to pay claims
to. They will even refer your rabbit to a specialist if
quickly and efficiently, allowing them to give whatever
they think it necessary. But such care isn’t cheap, and
treatment your rabbit really needs. Alternatively, ring
it is you, the owner, who’ll have to find money for bills
Petplan direct on freephone 0800 072 7000.
that can easily add up to hundreds of pounds.
Useful Addresses
The British Rabbit Council is the governing body of
houserabbits. For subscription details and a helpline,
the rabbit fancy and can provide a series of information
telephone 01473 652789.
leaflets on breeding and exhibiting rabbits. Send a
medium size SAE to:
Rabbit Welfare Association originally set up in
1996 to raise the status of the domestic rabbit, and
British Rabbit Council, Purefoy House, 7 Kirkgate,
to increase interest in and knowledge of rabbit
Newalk, Nottinghamshire NG24 1AD.
medicine in the UK. For membership enquiries and
Fur and Feather is the fortnightly journal of the BRC
correspondence please contact:
and is full of good practical advice on breeding, showing
The RWA/F PO Box 603, Horsham, West Sussex
and caring for rabbits. It has a regular section on
RH13 5WL. www.rabbitwelfare.co.uk
Recommended Reading
Living with a House Rabbit - by Linda Dykes & Helen
Greenfoods for Rabbits & Cavies - by FR Bell & Allan
Flack, Jun 2003, Interpet Publishing
Trigg, Jan 07 Coney Publications
Rabbit Nutrition - by Virginnia Richardson, Feb 08
Why Does My Rabbit...? - by Anne McBride,
John Wiley & Sons, Limited
April 2000 Souvenir Press Ltd
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11:58
Page 28
Sitting
pretty!
With 1 in 3 pets needing urgent
veterinary treatment this year*
, you
could be sitting pretty with Petplan,
knowing that we’ll help pay for any
necessary treatment if your pet is
ill or injured.
Do something special
for your pet today, call
0800 107 1169
Or go online
4600/2
petplan.co.uk/press
*Petplan 2008. Terms, conditions and excesses apply and may be varied on renewal. Petplan is a trading name of Allianz Insurance plc which
is authorised and regulated by the Financial Services Authority (FSA). Registered office address: 57 Ladymead, Guildford, Surrey GU1 1DB.