What do I eat? Corn snakes are carnivores and will feed mainly on mice or rats but can also be fed chicks. You should never feed your snake live food as injury can result. Caring For Your Corn Snake Shopping List
Frozen, captive bred rodents are available from most pet shops which will just need thawing before feeding, placing in a bowl of warm water does a good job. The food offered should be no bigger than one and a half times the snakes body width. Try and feed your snake in a separate enclosure with no substrate to avoid the risk of him accidently swallowing any whilst feeding. Young snakes will need feeding every 2‐5 days and adults every 1‐2 weeks although many full grown snakes may go several weeks without eating. Handle your snake as little as possible during feeding whilst the odour of the food is on your hands and leave the snake for at least 48 hours after feeding before handling again.
Fresh water should always be available in a bowl large enough for the snake to submerge in‐ something they may do when shedding their skin. F Vivarium F Heat mat or lamp F Thermostat F Thermometer(s) F Substrate F Water Bowl F Hide and Branches F Frozen mice F Pet safe disinfectant F Book on corn snake care for more information If within the first few days of purchasing your new pet you have any concerns please do not hesitate to get in touch. The Pet Stop, 135 New Road Side, Horsforth, LS18 4QD. Tel: 0113 258 3662 Email: [email protected] Web: www.thepetstopshop.co.uk Corn Snakes Corn snakes are the most common species of rat snake kept as pets. They originate from the eastern United States, thriving in the warm woodlands, rocky hillsides and cornfields where they feed on the rodents found amongst the grain. These good‐natured snakes make great first pets for the inexperienced reptile keeper as they are easy to feed and can withstand a fairly large temperature range. They are available in a variety of colour morphs and will grow to 120‐190cm (4‐6ft) and can live for up to 20 years so be sure you are committed for the long term before taking home one of these fascinating creatures. Where should I live?
Your snake needs to be housed in a well ventilated and adequately heated vivarium which is both escape proof and of suitable size. Although they are not particularly active they need a vivarium whose diagonal is at least half the length of the snake. The floor of the cage should have a substrate of dry aspen wood shavings or sani‐chips, which will need spot cleaning on a regular basis and completely changing every month or so. Like most snakes your corn will appreciate a hide in which they will feel secure and a branch or two can also give your snake something interesting to climb. As all snakes are cold blooded this means they need an external heat source in order to regulate their temperature. This is vital for general health and food digestion. Heat can be provided by either a heat mat or heat lamp with a wire bulb guard to avoid the risk of your snake burning himself. The heat source should be positioned at one end of the vivarium to ensure a thermal gradient within the habitat so the snake is able to move from the cooler end to the warmer end as necessary. This temperature gradient wants to be in the range of 22‐30c during the day but can be reduced at night to more accurately replicate their natural habitat. A thermometer in the tank will be needed to monitor the temperature. No special lighting is required although a UVB lamp can be fitted which again will more closely approximate natural conditions. How Should I Be Looked After
Your corn snake should be alert and inquisitive which will be indicated by him flicking his tongue to sense his surroundings. The body should feel firm and strong as you hold him and with a rounded cross section. Check for mites and other parasites and ensure the vent is clean and free of encrustation which could indicate a health problem. The body should be clean and free of swelling (unless recently fed) and there should be no evidence of retained skin shedding. Corn snakes very rarely bite but should be handled with care. Hold your snake loosely but with plenty of support at the middle and rear of the snake, allowing his head to move freely and investigate you and his surroundings. Good hygiene is important so always wash your hands before and after handling. Every few weeks your snake will shed his skin as he grows. You know this will happen when you see the snakes eyes become cloudy. Increasing the humidity in the vivarium may assist in the shedding. Your snake can be transported home in a secure box or tied cotton bag and as long as the journey is not too long will not require any heat. If you ever need to transport your snake for longer periods a hot water bottle wrapped in a towel makes a good heat pad.