Title: Hyland honors pioneers and an unusual Pinot Noir clone in Oregon
Publication: Great Northwest Wine
Date: 3 January 2013
Author: Andy Perdue
Link:
http://www.greatnorthwestwine.com/2013/01/03/hyland-honors-pioneers-and-an-unusual-pinot-noir-clone-in-oregon/
Hyland honors pioneers and an unusual Pinot Noir clone in
Oregon
Hyland Vineyard was first planted in 1971 in the McMinnville AVA in Oregon’s northern Willamette
Valley. (Photo courtesy of Andrea Johnson Photography)
One of the least-understood appellations in Oregon Pinot Noir country is McMinnville.
Many wine lovers associate it with the city of McMinnville, which is nearby but is not inside the
American Viticultural Area that was approved in 2005. In fact, the McMinnville AVA is on a hillside
west of town and is home to such vineyards as Meredith Mitchell, Yamhill Valley and Maysara.
One of the classic vineyards in McMinnville that helps define the AVA is Hyland. This 100-acre
vineyard was first planted in 1971, making it among the oldest in Oregon’s northern Willamette
Valley.
Early Oregon Pinot Noir plantings – and an unusual
clone
Those first plantings in 1971 and 1973 were on their own roots and include the classic Pommard and
Wadensvil clones. Also among these is a version of Pinot Noir known as the “Coury clone,” named
for Charles Coury, an early Oregon Pinot Noir pioneer. According to The Prince of Pinot, Coury
might have brought the Coury clone with him from Europe (known as a “suitcase selection” for the
way such vines were snuck into the country). Coury arrived in Oregon in 1965 and bought a vineyard
near Forest Grove in the northern Willamette Valley. He also started a nursery and sold what was
then believed to be a Pommard clone but turned out to be something else entirely. Regardless, it’s
now dubbed the “Coury clone.”
Coury ended up returning to California in the 1980s to get into microbrewing and died in 2004,
according to The Prince of Pinot.
Coury’s version of Pinot Noir ended up being among the first planted at Hyland in 1971, and that
original block remains today. Owner/winemaker Laurent Montalieu honors Coury, his contributions to
the early Oregon wine industry and the special vines he left behind on the McMinnville hillside.
Hyland’s move forward, new ownership
In the late 1980s, more grapes were planted at Hyland, this time the Dijon 115 clone of Pinot Noir.
Montalieu and his wife, Danielle Andrus Montalieu, purchased the property in 2007 with partner John
Niemeyer, and now makes the first estate wines from the vineyard. They also sell grapes to such
Oregon producers as Penner-Ash, Sokol Blosser, Coeur de Terre, Erath, Antica Terra and Tendril.
Here are three Hyland wines we’ve tasted recently. While the 2009 is sold out at the winery, the
2010s are on the market (as are the recently released 2011s).
Tasting notes
Hyland Estates 2010 Coury Pinot Noir, McMinnville, $60
Excellent: Hyland Estates in Oregon’s McMinnville AVA was planted beginning in 1971, making it
one of the northern Willamette Valley’s oldest vineyards. In 2007, longtime Oregon winemaker
Laurent Montalieu and his wife, Danielle Andrus Montalieu, bought the site and now, they are
making wines under the Hyland label. While Oregon’s 2010 vintage will be remembered in part for
the dramatic damage caused by migrating birds, the grapes that remained produced some delicious
wines, including this Pinot Noir. It opens with aromas of leather, lime zest, green peppercorns and
other spices, followed by flavors of black currants, mint, strawberries and president plums. It’s all
backed with bright acidity. For food pairings, we would suggest duck, turkey or risotto, or even try a
mushroom and lentil stew. Looking for something more exotic? Consider the Indian dish saag
paneer. (28 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Hyland Estates 2010 Pinot Noir, McMinnville, $35
Excellent: The 2010 vintage was not easy for Oregon winemakers. It was cool, and it rained during
bloom, which reduced the size of the crop. Fortunately for Laurent Montalieu of Hyland, October
brought sun instead of rain for the first three weeks. He harvested the grapes from this estate
vineyard beginning Oct. 23 and just beat the rains that followed. This is a distinctive Pinot Noir with
aromas of juniper, black currant, black pepper and mushrooms, followed by bright flavors of currant,
pomegranate, raspberry and plenty of intriguing black pepper. This is a beautifully balanced wine
that should only improve with a few years in the cellar. (129 cases, 13.7% alc.)
Hyland Estates 2009 Pinot Noir, McMinnville, $35
Excellent: In 2009, Oregon winemakers enjoyed warm, dry temperatures, which resulted in grapes
often being picked a bit earlier than usual without as much pressure from autumn rains. In fact, the
grapes for this wine were selected between Sept. 28 and Oct. 15, which is plenty early for Oregon.
The resulting wine is showing beautifully now, with aromas of cedar, spice, mint, violets and
blueberries. On the palate, it’s youthful, juicy and hedonistic, with modest, approachable tannins and
flavors of red currants and cranberries. It is a harmonious wine from beginning to end. This wine is
sold out at the winery. (245 cases, 14.1% alc.)