Supersized: Whale-watching in Los Cabos
In a 15-passenger inflatable Zodiac boat, we’re zooming around the aquamarine
water of Los Cabos, Mexico. Whale-watching season runs from mid-December to
mid-April when thousands of ballenas (whales) ply the waters day and night.
Although they’re easily spotted from shore, we’re told that if we want a glimpse of
them up close and personal, our best bet is to board a fast boat with a trained guide
to hone in on them in the shallow waters of the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez.
Powered by two Yamaha outboard motors, a Zodiac has enough thrust,
maneuverability, and visibility to pursue these stealthy creatures wherever they
surface. Compared to larger boats, small crafts enable passengers not only to get
closer to marine life but also to experience the relentless motion and power of the
sea.
My husband and I book a 10:30 AM reservation with Cabo Expeditions, a company
that runs whale-watching excursions out of the modern marina at the port
in Cabo San Lucas. The bright sunny morning was perfect for boating or any outdoor
activity. After removing our shoes and placing our belongings in a large storage
locker on the boat’s deck, we don bright orange life vests and are ready for the hunt.
We sit next to the other boaters who are all sporting digital cameras.
Looking tanned and seaworthy in a white pique shirt, navy Bermuda shorts, and
mirrored sunglasses, our bilingual guide Augusto greets us and helps passengers on
the boat one by one. Twelve people are seated on the rear half of the tube; three are
on cushioned seats at the stern. A company photographer commandeers the prime
seat at the front of the boat.
“Any questions before we leave?” asks Antonio. Positioned at the helm, he tells us
we’ll see gray whales and humpbacks, mostly mothers with calves that migrate
thousands of miles each year from Alaska to these warmer waters.
“Why are there so many whales in Los Cabos?” one young woman asks.
“This is where they are born so they return here every year,” he replies.
“How fast can they travel?” asks someone else.
“Usually six or seven miles an hour but they can swim as fast as 20 if they have to,
but only for short distances,” he responds.
The eye-catching covers of most whale-watching trip-brochures invariably show
close-ups of huge whales breaching head first out of the water. In reality, whale
watching is more akin to going fishing. You stare at the water patiently and come to
accept you may not make a single catch that day. The unpredictability of the sport is
what makes it exciting.
We pass Lover’s Beach, Land’s End, and Los Arcos, where we stop briefly to take
photos as we travel north on the Pacific. Bouncing on the waves, we soak up views
of striking rock formations along the shore. Augusto instructs us to call out when we
spot a whale, using the positions of a clock to pinpoint location. Like a
schoolteacher, he orients us to 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. Our entire crew of 15 whale
hunters crook our necks in every direction to see who will be first to spot the big
one.
“Four o’clock,” yells a passenger on the starboard side. By the time I click my camera
shutter, the whales are submerged beneath the water again. I realize that getting a
good view, let alone a photograph, is going to be tough.
Whales breathe through blowholes on the top of their heads so when they exhale, it
pushes up an explosive spout of water. Antonio explains that the spout offers a
visual clue that the warm-blooded mammals are nearby. As promised, we see some
spouts followed by glimpses of barnacle-covered gray whales.
“Let’s go east,” says Antonio as he changes course looking for richer waters. We
head to the Sea of Cortez and travel the equivalent of five land miles on a path that
parallels the highway called “The Corridor,” which links the anchoring cities of Cabo
San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo. Remarkably, desert vegetation meets the
aquamarine waters almost at the shoreline.
At Augusto’s beckoning, we sight a few more whales a distance away but they are
nothing to write home about. Then he slows down the boat and turns off the engine.
Everyone remains silent as he turns on a special listening device that amplifies
sounds under water so we can hear the whales singing to each other. We know
we’re getting closer.
Then came the grand finale. Two enormous whales breach up towards the blue skies
and slam down on their sides. I thought the boat might capsize when we all got up
from our seats angling to get unobstructed views. They “skyhop” seconds later,
raising their heads above the water. The action creates a huge splash that looks like
a tidal wave. Cameras click and we all ooh and aah as our lenses fog up with spray.
We’d already spent two hours on the boat, but everyone is disappointed when
Augusto signals it is time to head back to the marina. He revs the motor but we
remain vigilant in case the whales perform again. No such luck.
It takes a few minutes to regain our sea legs after we get off the boat and return to
the expedition office on the marina. Before stopping at a nearby cantina for
margaritas, we wait for the company photographer to download his shots from the
voyage. They’re projected onto a large overhead TV screen set up for viewing by
customers. He was either more practiced at whale photography or had a far better
telephoto lens than any of ours.
For an additional $35, we cave in and purchase a CD with copies of the several
dozen whale shots he took, along with a print photograph. I’m still not sure whether
it was the same whales we saw or stock photography. It really doesn’t matter.
If you go:
Cabo Expeditions (behind the Tesoro Hotel)
On the Cabo San Lucas Marina
624-143-2700
Cost $85 per passenger for a 2½ hour guided tour, including bus transportation
from and to your hotel. Boats leave about every two hours between 8AM and
3:30PM. Check for exact times; reservations are recommended.
www.caboexpeditions.com.mx