BROGAN HOME INSPECTION, INC.
920 York Street
Oakland CA 94610-1640
P 510.835.3887
[email protected]
www.broganhomeinspection.com
INSPECTION REPORT
PROPERTY LOCATION:
XXXX Ocean View
Oakland, CA 94618
COMMISSIONED BY:
XXXXX
TYPE OF STRUCTURE:
Single Family Dwelling
INSPECTOR:
John Brogan
INSPECTION DATE & TIME:
06/20/2012 at 8:30 AM
This report was prepared for the sole use of the within
named client and is not intended for use by anyone else.
Copyright (c) 2012 by BROGAN HOME INSPECTION
TABLE OF CONTENTS
PREFACE ............................................................................................................................................................... 5
REPORT INTRODUCTION...................................................................................................................................... 7
REPORTS ............................................................................................................................................................... 8
MAIN BUILDING - PESTS ...................................................................................................................................... 9
MAIN BUILDING - ROOF..................................................................................................................................... 10
MAIN BUILDING - EXTERIOR .............................................................................................................................. 13
MAIN BUILDING - ATTIC..................................................................................................................................... 18
MAIN BUILDING – INTERIOR ROOMS................................................................................................................ 20
MAIN BUILDING - KITCHEN................................................................................................................................ 25
MAIN BUILDING - KITCHEN................................................................................................................................ 25
MAIN BUILDING - BATHROOMS ........................................................................................................................ 26
MAIN BUILDING - LAUNDRY .............................................................................................................................. 27
MAIN BUILDING - FIREPLACES ........................................................................................................................... 28
MAIN BUILDING - ELECTRICAL ........................................................................................................................... 30
MAIN BUILDING - PLUMBING............................................................................................................................ 36
MAIN BUILDING - HEATING ............................................................................................................................... 40
MAIN BUILDING – WATER HEATER ................................................................................................................... 42
Page 2 of 83
MAIN BUILDING - STRUCTURE .......................................................................................................................... 44
MAIN BUILDING – SURFACE DRAINAGE............................................................................................................ 49
GARAGE - PESTS ................................................................................................................................................. 50
GARAGE - ROOF ................................................................................................................................................. 51
GARAGE - EXTERIOR........................................................................................................................................... 52
PARKING ............................................................................................................................................................. 53
GARAGE - ATTIC ................................................................................................................................................. 54
GARAGE - APARTMENT...................................................................................................................................... 55
GARAGE - BATHROOM....................................................................................................................................... 56
GARAGE - ELECTRICAL ....................................................................................................................................... 57
GARAGE - PLUMBING ........................................................................................................................................ 58
GARAGE - HEATING............................................................................................................................................ 59
GARAGE - STRUCTURE ....................................................................................................................................... 60
GARAGE - SURFACE DRAINAGE ......................................................................................................................... 61
COTTAGE - PESTS ............................................................................................................................................... 63
COTTAGE - ROOF................................................................................................................................................ 64
COTTAGE - EXTERIOR ......................................................................................................................................... 65
COTTAGE - ATTIC................................................................................................................................................ 66
Page 3 of 83
COTTAGE - INTERIOR ROOMS ........................................................................................................................... 67
COTTAGE - KITCHEN........................................................................................................................................... 69
COTTAGE - BATHROOM ..................................................................................................................................... 70
COTTAGE - FIREPLACE........................................................................................................................................ 71
COTTAGE - ELECTRICAL ...................................................................................................................................... 72
COTTAGE - PLUMBING....................................................................................................................................... 76
COTTAGE - HEATING .......................................................................................................................................... 78
COTTAGE - WATER HEATER ............................................................................................................................... 79
COTTAGE - STRUCTURE ..................................................................................................................................... 80
COTTAGE - SURFACE DRAINAGE ....................................................................................................................... 83
Page 4 of 83
PREFACE
This report is given on the terms set out in our Inspection Agreement. We performed the inspection in
accordance with the Standards of Practice of the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI), which is
available upon request.
This report gives an overview of the general condition of the buildings on the date of inspection. It is a
limited review of the major building systems and structural components. An operational inspection of
every minor component including, but not limited to, every door, electrical outlet, valve was not made.
We do not perform any destructive testing of exposed surfaces or dismantling of equipment. We
inspected the visible and accessible areas only. Conditions of areas made inaccessible by walls,
concrete, furniture, wall or floor coverings, storage, etc. are not included. No opinions can be provided
regarding any conditions that may be present but were not visible at the time of our inspection. A full
inspection can only be done if the areas are fully visible.
This report is intended for use by the person(s) who commissioned it. Use by others is unauthorized
and prohibited.
The following information on some of the items that are outside the scope of our inspection should
prove useful to you.
OWNER(S)' DISCLOSURE The Real Estate Transfer Disclosure Statement required by law makes it the
owner(s)' responsibility to provide full disclosure to the best of their knowledge.
TERMITE REPORT Only a licensed pest control operator is qualified to inspect for wood destroying pests
or organisms. If no recent Standard Structural Pest Control Inspection Report (commonly referred to as
a "termite report") is available, have a qualified pest control operator perform one. Call the operator
with any questions.
BUILDING CODE We are not building officials and therefore we are not authorized to cite building codes.
Building codes are revised and added to every few years. Unless a building is new and all the applicable
permits are finalized, it will not be in compliance with the current code. The permit history of the
building should be available at the local building department for public review.
WARRANTY This report is not a warranty or guarantee, expressed or implied, of the building's condition.
Check with a real estate professional for information on home warranties.
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES Ask a real estate professional for a copy of Environmental Hazards: Guide for
Homeowners and Buyers", a State of California publication to help you better understand today's
environmental issues within and around residential buildings. Some of these issues include, but are not
limited to, mold, indoor air quality, asbestos, lead contamination, formaldehyde, toxic waste, radon,
electromagnetic fields, allergy causing factors, underground storage tanks, ground water and soil
contamination. If you are concerned about any of these or other environmental issues, consult with a
qualified specialist.
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EXCLUSIONS Unless noted otherwise, this report does not cover structures detached from the dwelling
or retaining walls. We do not inspect telephones lines, television cables, landscape lighting, intercom
systems, swimming pools, spas, hot tubs, storage tanks, construction drawings, report records, fire
sprinklers, vacuum, solar heating systems, security systems, and irrigation systems.
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REPORT INTRODUCTION
This report should be read in its entirety upon receipt. Should you need clarification, call our office.
For ease of reading, the report is divided into sections. Some sections will have recommendations that
we believe to be the most important ones. Some will call for further action(s) by the appropriate
qualified contractor(s). The scope and cost of these action(s) should be determined before the close of
escrow.
A qualified contractor is one who holds a valid license in the correct category issued by the California
State License Board or other recognized agency, and having the skills and experience necessary to
perform the work according to applicable regulations and trade standards.
All buildings need periodic maintenance. Within the report, items requiring maintenance will be noted.
Establish a regular maintenance schedule.
This inspection report is conveyed in a PDF format (read only) on the date of issuance and must not be
modified by unauthorized parties.
As used in this report, "serviceable" means that an item was capable of providing its overall intended
function at the time of our inspection.
The public records can be checked to determine the legal description of the property.
The location of components is noted as if looking at the front of the building from the street.
****
XXXX, XXXX, and XXXX were present at the inspection walk through. The sky was clear. The lot sloped
up from the front to the rear, to a level area, and then it sloped down toward the rear of the property.
The buildings were furnished.
The original kitchen had been remodeled in the past. The furnace and the ducting were new to the
building. A permit history can be obtained from the local building department to see if properly
finalized building permits are on file.
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REPORTS
Various reports and bids were present at the main building, including but not limited to a home
inspection report, a termite report, a fireplace/chimney report, a roofing bid, an electrical bid, etc.
Obtain all reports.
An engineer was present at the time of our inspection. As informed, the engineer is to inspect the
foundations and the framing, to inspect for water intrusion, and to determine the appropriate seismic
retrofit. Obtain a copy of the report.
Page 8 of 83
MAIN BUILDING - PESTS
Rodent dropping was noted in the attic space, on top of the furnace, the water heater, and in the
crawlspace.
The small tears in the plastic insulation on the heating ducting in the crawlspace imply small animal
activity.
A rodent bait box was present at the left side of the crawlspace.
Some rodent activity is not unusual in buildings that are located on properties where trees and dense
vegetation are present. For a positive finding on the presence of rodents, contact a qualified
exterminator company. This is beyond the scope of our inspection.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor inspect the building, carry out extermination as
necessary, and make improvements to help prevent rodent entry.
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MAIN BUILDING - ROOF
The upper roof covering was inspected from the ground/edge of the roof due to the roof steepness.
Climbing on a steep roof requires special equipment; this is beyond the scope of our inspection.
Observations of the lower roof sections were made from what could be seen from the windows. We
did not access the lower flat roof at the left side of the building.
The roof covering consisted of composition shingles that were installed on wood shingles. The wood
shingles were nailed to roofing boards spaced at intervals (skip sheathing) and served as a platform for
the composition shingles.
Composition shingles consist of a fibrous mat embedded in an asphalt material which is impregnated
with small mineral chips (granules) to help reflect solar rays and protect the felt. Composition shingles
come in different grades and thickness. Over time, the shingles will become brittle, brittle shingles are
more vulnerable to cracking and wind blow off. Over time, the granules on the shingles will wear away,
exposing the mat. The mat will deteriorate rapidly when exposed to sunlight.
We were unable to determine the exact number of layers of covering present. Due to weight, some
jurisdictions allow two while others allow three. Whenever a new roof covering is installed, it is likely
that all the coverings will be removed and the new roof covering will be laid on new plywood sheathing
or oriented strand board (OSB) secured to the existing skip sheathing.
The roof covering showed moderate to deep wear. At a small area at the right side of the front left roof
slope and at a small area at the upper left side of the front right roof slope, some newer shingles were
present. The condition implies past repair.
When a composition shingle roof covering is installed over existing layers of roof covering, some of the
fasteners may not penetrate the sheathing. This can make the shingles more vulnerable to looseness
and to wind blow off.
Some shingles were missing. Some shingles were loose. Some shingles were damaged.
Have a qualified roofing contractor inspect the roof covering to determine if it is cost effective to make
corrections or if a new roof covering should be installed.
FLASHING Flashings are installed at all intersections formed by vertical surfaces (such as pipes,
chimneys); they could only be partially seen. Periodic flashing maintenance should be done.
The composition roof covering was flashed with roofing mastic at the vent connectors, at the area
where the covering met the building wall, and at the chimneys. The best procedure is to replace old
metal flashing when a new roof covering is installed. It is common practice in some areas to leave old
flashing in place and to cover them with mastic when applying new roofing over an existing roof
surface. Mastic is a general term for fibered roofing cement, which is a thick roofing patching
compound. Mastic is considered a temporary method to seal connections. Mastic dries out and cracks
over time and will therefore need periodic maintenance. Typically a new application is required every
three to four years. Cracks/small gaps were noted in the mastic flashings.
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FLUE ENCLOSURE There was a stucco covered flue enclosure at the right side of the roof. The enclosure
housed a flue that more than likely served an original gas range. As the flue is no longer in use, have
the flue enclosure removed whenever a new roof covering is installed.
ROOF DRAINAGE The roof drainage system should be regularly inspected. Leaves and other debris
should be removed as necessary. Gutter connections may need periodic caulking or sealing. A leaf
deflecting system can be installed at the gutters to help keep debris from blocking the downspouts. To
check for adequate drainage, walk around the building during or shortly after a heavy rain and observe
the adequacy of the roof drainage system.
Most of the gutters were metal. Over time, rust can form inside galvanized sheetmetal gutters and
downspouts as they age and rust spots or holes eventually occur on the underside and at the
connections of the gutters and downspouts. Rusting typically indicates that the gutters and/or
downspouts will soon need to be replaced. Sealing the connections and painting the gutter troughs
with a rust inhibitive paint will help to improve serviceability.
Some of the redwood gutters were present. Redwood gutter troughs are small. This can result in water
overflow. The gutters should be kept well maintained. After the gutters have been cleaned, have the
troughs inspected for rotted out areas, repaired, and sealed. Only non-drying oil such as shingle oil,
light motor oil, or mineral oil should be used to seal gutter troughs in order to keep them supple and to
prevent them from drying out.
The gutter and downspout at the perimeter of the conservatory roof were plastic. Plastic is not
considered a good material for gutters as it can degrade and crack with exposure to the sunlight. Plastic
gutters and downspouts need to be periodically secured at the connections.
Have the gutters and downspouts cleaned.
The metal gutter at the edge of the rear middle roof slope was thinning. As an improvement, have the
gutter replaced.
The bottom section of the front middle downspout was loose, have it re-connected.
There were loose sections of downspout at the bottom section of the middle right downspout. Have
the condition corrected.
The left downspout was corroded. Have a new downspout installed.
The bottom of the plastic downspout at the right side of the conservatory needed to be positively
connected to the flexible plastic inground drain.
GENERAL NOTE(S) Observations are based on what could be seen of the roof surface and do not present
an opinion on or a guarantee against any leakage. Comments concerning the roofing only reflect the
condition of the top layer. For an in depth inspection of the roof(s), consult a qualified roofing
contractor.
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Past roof leaks or repairs can sometime be difficult to find and may not be visible at the time of our
inspection.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified roofing contractor inspect the roof covering to determine if it is
cost effective to make corrections or to install a new roof covering.
Have a qualified contractor clean the gutters and downspouts and make corrections where necessary.
Page 12 of 83
MAIN BUILDING - EXTERIOR
Walk and inspect the entire property.
SIDEWALK The sidewalk appeared serviceable. The sidewalk showed cracks. It is not possible to
determine if a crack will grow in size or if new cracks will form. The sidewalk should be monitored and
repair made when the unevenness at the cracked sections becomes a hazard to foot traffic.
Paint marks were present on the sidewalk. Check with the local public works department, the local
utility company, etc. regarding their work plans for this area.
Some sections of the street curb were broken. Check with the local public works department to see
who is responsible for repair.
CONCRETE STAIRS The top step at the stairs from the sidewalk to the flagstone entrance walkway was
out of level. Use with caution. Consider having modifications made.
For safety, have a grippable handrail installed at the stairs.
FENCES/WALLS/GATES The determination of property lines and of who is responsible for the repair of
fences and walls on property lines is beyond the scope of our inspection. We did note that the left
fence terminated at the left corners of the cottage.
Regular maintenance can extend the serviceability of fences and gates. Debris and vegetation can trap
moisture and should be periodically removed. Periodically coating wood may help to improve
appearance and extend life expectancy.
The wood fences showed some decay. Some sections were leaning. Some decay was noted at the
gates. Have the corrections made to the wood fences and gates.
Some sections of the brick walls were leaning.
A section of brick wall adjacent the front right corner of the cottage was leaning and loose. Have
corrections made.
A properly constructed retaining wall will, in most instances, be either vertical or lean towards the
ground it is holding. Any outward leaning indicates that the wall may not be strong enough. The brick
retaining wall at the middle left side of the property, was failing, it is not possible to say when it will
need to be replaced. Have a qualified contractor provide a bid for replacement so that you will be
aware of the cost involved.
The concrete block retaining wall opposite the front left corner of the cottage had a slight lean.
Measure the lean measured over a period of time to determine at what rate the walls are moving. This
can help to determine its probable life span.
The neighboring property to the left was not accessed to obtain full observations of the retaining walls.
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WALKWAYS The flagstone covered entrance walkway and front patio appeared serviceable. Gravel will
need to be periodically placed at the gaps to provide a safe walking surface.
Most of the brick walkways were uneven, they can be a potential trip hazard. Have corrections made to
provide a safe walking surface.
Brick flatwork requires periodic re-leveling. The surface of wet brickwork can be slippery. Have the
surface cleaned of any moss and debris as part of regular maintenance.
LANDSCAPE Although the landscaping was not included in our inspection, we did note the following.
There were trees on the property. Falling trees, tree limbs, and/or tree branches can pose a hazard.
Have a qualified arborist periodically inspect the trees and make improvements as necessary to help
prevent any potentially hazardous condition.
For fire safety, have adequate clearance provided at all times between tree branches and the top of the
brick chimneys.
A tree was close to the front left corner of the cottage, it may eventually come in contact with the
cottage. Removal should be planned.
A limb from the tree opposite the front left corner of the Garage/Apartment building was close to the
building and pushing on the brick wall. Removal of the limb should be planned.
Have the vegetation growing next to the building periodically trimmed and adequate clearance
provided between the vegetation and the building. Vegetation in contact with the building can
encourage mildew growth.
CORE, a program of the Oakland Fire Department office of emergency services, offers vegetation
management tips for fire safe landscapes. For more information, see
www.oaklandnet.com/fire/core/vegetation.html.
For information on creating a defensible space around the building go to
www.oaklandnet.com/wildfireprevention/Homeowners.asp.
FOUNTAIN There was a fountain opposite the left side of the building. The fountain was not stable.
This is a potential hazard. If it is to be kept, have it made stable. For safety, small children should not
be left unattended at the fountain.
POND For safety, small children should not be left unattended at the pond. Ponds can be a breeding
ground for mosquitoes. There are fish that eat the mosquito eggs that float on the water.
ABANDONED POOL As informed, the rectangular area of grass at the middle of the right side of the
property was a lap pool that had been filled in. The contractor who filled the pool in should be
consulted to make sure that holes were made in the pool to allow for drainage to the ground below
pool.
Page 14 of 83
Have a qualified electrical contractor make sure that the electrical supply to the abandoned pool
equipment in the shed is properly disconnected.
Have a qualified plumbing contractor make sure that the gas and water supply to the abandoned pool
equipment in the shed is properly disconnected.
PATIO The rear left patio appeared serviceable.
A barbecue pit and an exterior fireplace were present at the patio.
The barbecue grill was corroded.
The brick joints at the exterior fireplace showed cracks. If the fireplace is to be kept, have corrections
made and for fire safety have the tree branches cut back to provide a minimum of 10' of clearance to
the chimney.
The wood awning at the patio showed wood decay. Several of the posts were leaning. If it is to be
kept, have corrections made to help prevent collapse. Alternatively, have the awning removed and a
new awning installed if one is needed.
INGROUND TRASH CANS In the 1940s and 1950s, trash cans were sometimes set in the ground to hide
the containers from view. Step on type lids cover the openings. Most of these cans are no longer in use
and may become filled with rain water, creating a potential drowning hazard to children.
There was an inground trash can in the ground next to the rear right corner of the building and one in
the ground opposite the front right corner of the cottage. Standing water was present at the bottom of
the inground trash can next to the building. For safety, have the inground trash cans removed and filled
with an appropriate material.
CONSERVATORY STEPS The risers at the steps to the left exterior door were uneven. The condition is a
potential trip hazard. For safety, have modifications made to the steps to provide even risers.
ENTRANCE PORCH The entrance porch appeared serviceable.
The brick work showed moderate wear. Periodic re-pointing of some of the brick joints should be
expected.
SIDING The building had stucco siding and wood siding.
Stucco siding is generically known as a membrane drainage wall. This is a system where the stucco
provides the primary barrier to water. The material behind the stucco, a weather resistive barrier
(WRB), provides a backup barrier to water that may penetrate the stucco. Generally when water
penetrates stucco siding, it does so through breeches at cracks, control joints, perimeters of openings
e.g. doors and windows, and joints at abutting materials. In new stucco siding, water penetration is
expected to exit the wall base at a weep screed or to dissipate through evaporation.
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The stucco surface may show absorption of moisture from rain falls. Stucco cracking is common and
may be caused by movement in the wall framing, foundation movement, seismic activity, or stucco
shrinkage. Minor cracks usually do not need repair and are normally filled when the stucco is painted.
Cracks large enough to allow water entry should be caulked or patched. A textured brush on
elastomeric flexible patching and caulking compound is used to seal stucco cracks.
Except for the conservatory walls, the stucco siding passed over the foundation below the finished
grade. This was an accepted practice at the time the original stucco siding was installed but it is no
longer approved as any hidden cracks may allow wood destroying insects or water access to the wood
framing. As a precaution, a periodic structural pest control inspection is suggested.
The building had Tudor style wood trim set in the stucco siding, creating several connections that will
require or caulking as part of routine maintenance to help prevent water entry.
The siding appeared serviceable.
The south and west sides receive the most exposure to sunlight and typically require more maintenance
than the other exposures. As part of routine maintenance, the joints between the siding and any
penetrations (e.g. around plumbing piping, windows, and doors) should be inspected regularly for gaps
or openings. Have these areas kept sealed with a good quality caulk.
GENERAL NOTE(S) Wood surfaces weather over time and will deteriorate if not maintained. A yearly
maintenance schedule of the exterior surfaces is recommended to help prevent moisture penetration,
particularly at areas such as decks, cracks or gaps, and areas around windows. Inspect the exterior
surfaces before each rainy season for maintenance needs. Only caulks that are compatible with the
surface application should be used.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor install a grippable handrail at the stairs from the
sidewalk to the flagstone entrance walkway.
Have a qualified fencing contractor make corrections to the wood fences and gates.
Have a qualified masonry contractor make corrections to the brick walls.
Have a qualified contractor provide a bid for replacement of the brick retaining wall.
Have a qualified masonry contractor make corrections to the brick walkways to provide a safe walking
surface.
For fire safety, have adequate clearance provided at all times between tree branches and the top of the
brick chimneys.
If the fountain is to be kept, have a qualified contractor make it stable.
For safety, small children should not be left unattended at the fountain and the pond.
Page 16 of 83
Consult the contractor who filled the pool in to make sure holes were made in the pool to allow for
drainage to the ground below pool.
Have a qualified electrical contractor make sure that the electrical supply to the abandoned pool
equipment in the shed is properly disconnected.
Have a qualified plumbing contractor make sure that the gas and water supply to the abandoned pool
equipment in the shed is properly disconnected.
If the exterior fireplace is to be kept, have a qualified contractor make corrections to it and have the
tree branches above the chimney cut back to provide a minimum of 10' of clearance.
If the awning at the patio is to be kept, have a qualified contractor make corrections to it. Alternatively,
have it removed and a new awning installed if one is needed.
Have a qualified contractor remove the inground trash cans and fill the holes.
Have a qualified contractor make modifications to the steps to the left exterior door of the conservatory
to provide even risers.
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MAIN BUILDING - ATTIC
The main attic access was located in the master bedroom closet ceiling. To prevent damage to the
ceilings, inspection of the attic space was restricted to what could be seen from the attic access opening
using a flashlight. If inspection of the balance of the attic space is required, this will be done at an
additional cost upon receiving a signed waiver releasing us from liability for any damage which may be
caused to the ceilings due to the inspection.
The stains on the wall sheathing boards at the left front gable imply past water intrusion. Have the
exterior of the gable kept well-maintained. The wall sheathing should be accessed to determine if it is
acceptable or if some areas need repair/replacement.
There was a television antenna in the attic space.
There was no access to the attic space above the ceiling of the room of the kitchen and above the
ceiling at the rear of the kitchen. Any attic space with a minimum vertical height of 30" should be
provided with an access opening.
The small unfinished attic space at the front right bedroom can be accessed by children. If children are
to be present at the building, as a precaution, have the opening secured with a lockset.
VENTILATION Ventilation is necessary to help prevent condensation problems in the winter and
excessive attic temperature in the summer. For adequate ventilation, in most jurisdictions, the total net
free vent opening area has to be at least 1/150 of the attic space area. Ridge vents and eave vents
provide an effective method for venting an attic space.
Ventilation to the main attic was provided by main attic clay vents in the gable walls. Screen was
missing at some of the clay vents. To help small animal entry, have screen installed at the clay vents.
Ventilation of the main attic space was minimal.
There was no ventilation to the small unfinished attic space at the front right bedroom.
There was no ventilation to the attic space above the room off the kitchen and above the rear of the
kitchen.
Whenever a new roof covering is installed, have the attic spaces adequately vented.
INSULATION Attic: For energy conservation, have insulation placed on top of the attic access opening lid
and have the perimeter of the opening weather-stripped.
Insulation thickness cannot be precisely determined. There was approximately 8" of blown insulation.
Rodent activity had caused furrows in the insulation in the attic space. Have the insulation re-spread to
provide a uniform coverage. Any insulation that is matted as the result of rodent urine should be
removed.
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Walls: Few homes built before 1970 have insulated walls. Since January 1985, when Title 24 Energy
Regulations were adopted, the building code requires that exterior walls be insulated. Any new
construction on existing homes, such as room additions or remodeling, has to follow the current
building code.
Floor: The under floor area of the building was not insulated.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor install screen at the clay vents.
Have a qualified contractor access the wall sheathing at the front left gable to determine if it is
acceptable or if some areas need repair/replacement.
Whenever a new roof covering is installed, have the roofing contractor provide adequate ventilation to
the attic spaces.
Have a qualified contractor re-spread the attic insulation to provide uniform coverage. Any insulation
that is matted as the result of rodent urine should be replaced.
Page 19 of 83
MAIN BUILDING – INTERIOR ROOMS
We do not comment on the cosmetic condition of the interior (paint, window coverings, wall covering,
floor covering, etc.) The buyer should inspect it.
The condition of the walls and floors which are hidden by personal property or fixtures is unknown.
When furniture, wall hangings, area floor coverings, and personal properties are removed, the
previously covered areas might have a different pattern of wear and/or different shades or color than
the rest of the exposed floor and wall surfaces. Walls, flooring, and other floor coverings that are not
subject to normal wear and tear or exposed to the sun and other forms of light may not match the
remaining exposed areas of the same surface.
LEAD Some of the paint at a building of this age may contain lead. The Environmental Protection
Agency (EPA) requires contractors who perform renovations, repair, and painting projects that disturb
more than 6 square feet of paint in homes built before 1978 to be certified and trained to follow work
practices to prevent lead contamination.
For information on lead abatement procedures, go to www.epa.gov/lead. Some local jurisdictions offer
free lead inspections, go to www.aclppp.org for information.
Some of the interior surfaces were not visible due to the furniture, area rugs, and personal belongings.
They should be inspected during the final "walk through".
Some of the interior rooms appeared to have recently been painted. Newly painted surfaces can hide
previous cracks and repairs that may only be discovered over time.
The interior rooms appeared serviceable.
LAUNDRY CHUTE If the laundry chute is to be kept, for safety, have bars installed in the chute just below
the upper opening to prevent a child from slipping through. For fire retardancy, have the rear of the
access covers to the laundry chute covered with sheetmetal and have the covers equipped with a self
closing hinges.
The bottom of the laundry chute was equipped with a cover with an attached hasp lock.
WALLS/CEILINGS To help prevent insect entry, have any gaps in the walls (e.g. where the plumbing
passed through the walls below the sinks) sealed.
As an improvement, have a center closet pole support bracket installed at the right closet in the master
bedroom.
FLOORS The condition of the floor finish under the coverings cannot be determined.
The floor covering in the rear left closet at the entrance hallway was worn. Plan to have a new floor
covering installed.
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The stains on the baseboard and oak flooring in the bedroom hallway closet at the opposite side of the
master bathroom shower implies past leakage. No signs of active leakage were noted at the time of the
inspection.
There were squeaks at some of the floors. This is common in an older building.
DOORS/WINDOWS For energy conservation, have the perimeter of the exterior doors and the door that
gave access to the small attic space in the front right bedroom weather-stripped.
To help prevent cold air infiltration from the basement, have the pet opening in the bottom of the
interior basement door properly covered and have the perimeter of the door weather-stripped.
To help prevent any moisture intrusion at the top edge of the exterior doors (which could lead to
warping), have the top edges of the doors sealed.
A double cylinder deadbolt lock was present at the exterior door to the basement. This type of lock is
operated by a key on the inside. Leave the key in or near the lock when the building is occupied so that
the door can be unlocked quickly in an emergency. As a precaution, plan to have the double deadbolt
lock replaced with a single cylinder deadbolt lock.
Some of the doors were missing door stops. Door stops help to prevent the door handles from
damaging the walls. Have door stops installed where necessary.
The privacy deadbolt locks at the entrance doors to the bathrooms cannot be opened from the exterior
in an emergency.
Adjustment was needed in order for the strike at the privacy deadbolt lock at the master bathroom
door to engage in the strike plate at the door jamb.
Have a strike plate installed at the master bedroom closet door jamb.
The right bedroom closet door was sticking. Have adjustment made so that the door closes easily
within the door jambs.
The interior basement door opened over the landing at the top of the basement stairs. The landing was
23" in depth. The landing was less than the minimum of 36" required in new installations, this is to
prevent a hazard to foot traffic that may be unaware of the presence of a stairs beyond the door. Place
a "Watch your step" warning sign or similar on the door.
The doors and windows in the conservatory were wood framed with insulated glass. The greenhouse
window in the sitting room off the kitchen was aluminum framed with insulated glass.
Insulated glass consists of double glass panes with an insulation space between the panes. Sometimes
the seal between the glass panes can fail, resulting in a moisture film appearing; this condition is
sometimes referred to as fogging. Fogging is sometimes not visible during the inspection as internal
and exterior temperature can affect the fogging of insulated glass.
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Some of the insulated glass panels at the conservatory were fogged. To obtain a clear view, have the
fogged glass panels replaced. To obtain a clear view, have the fogged glass replaced.
The metal foil at the bottom of the glass roof panels were worn and peeling. Have the foil removed and
new approved metal foil installed.
The roller shades at the conservatory were not operated.
The original windows were steel framed with single pane glass. Steel framed windows can be
susceptible to condensation depending on weather conditions and the location of the windows. This
can cause surface rusting that will bleed through the paint. Periodic cleaning of the window frames
should be part of routine maintenance. As the windows may be needed for emergency egress or
rescue, they should be opened periodically to make sure they are operational.
Some of the steel windows at the main floor were equipped with metal pieces to prevent the catches
from being opened.
The glass in one of the window panes in the master bedroom closet was cracked. Have new glass
installed.
A few windows had leaded glass. Leaded glass can be subject to warping depending on exterior
temperatures and exposure to sunlight.
In new installations, all escape or rescue windows from any room that is used for sleeping has to have a
minimum net clear openable height of 24" and a minimum net clear width opening of 20". The net
clear openable width of the widest casement window in the master bedroom was 16½". The net clear
openable width of the casement windows in the rest of bedrooms was 16½".
The loose soft plaster below the right corner of the living room window implies exterior water intrusion.
The exterior of the windows should be kept well maintained.
We noted that the sprinkler head at the opposite the exterior of the window was set high. The sprinkler
head could spray water onto the window. If so, have adjustment made.
Some of the casement steel windows were difficult to open. Some of the windows were painted shut.
For adequate ventilation, emergency egress or rescue, each room should have a window that will open.
SAFETY GLASS In new installations, glazing in locations subject to human impact such as glass at doors,
glazing immediately adjacent doors, glazing adjacent to any surface normally used for walking, glazing at
stairways, sliding glass door units (including fixed glass panels which are part of such units), shower
doors, tub enclosures, windows larger than 9 square feet, windows less than 5' above the bottom of a
tub or shower pan and storm doors have to be made of safety glazing materials. Safety glazing
materials are those so constructed, treated or combined with other materials as to minimize the
likelihood of cutting and piercing injuries resulting from human contact with this glazing material and
include such materials as laminated glass, tempered glass, and safety plastic.
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To help identify safety tempered glass, an etched mark is made in one corner. The glass at the
conservatory had an etched mark.
We could not see an etched mark at the glass in the doors, at the glass at the low windows in the living
room, and the glass at the window bedroom stairs.
Care should be taken around non safety glass. A transparent polyester film which is applied to existing
non safety glass can reduce the potential for injury, check with a qualified glazing contractor for details.
While there may be no requirement to change existing non safety glass at original installations, safety
glass is required when replacement due to breakage, remodeling, etc. is carried out.
Furniture can often be arranged to direct traffic away from non safety glass. Applying decals to wood
framed glass doors can help to warn people of the presence of glass in case they mistakenly think that
they are about to walk through a clear opening.
Door and Window Notes: We operated a representative sample of the windows. An examination of
each was not made. The condition and presence of door and window screens and a list of all window
defects are beyond the scope of this inspection. We inspected the overall condition of the doors and
windows.
The perimeter of the exposed exterior doors should be inspected during periods of rain to check for rain
water entry and provisions made to help protect them from rain water. Awnings, screen doors, storm
doors, or storm covers are sometimes installed to protect exterior doors.
BEDROOM STAIRS The rail at the top of the guardrail at the stairs does not constitute a grippable
handrail. A circular handrail 1¼" to 2" in diameter provides good grip. For safety, have a grippable
handrail installed at the walls above the stairs.
The openings in the guardrails were wide enough to allow a small child to slip through.
The guardrail at the top of the stairs was 32" high which is lower than what is now considered a safe
height to prevent a person from falling over it. The guardrail was probably built in accordance with the
standard in effect at the time of installation. While there may be no requirement to change an existing
condition, you may wish to have the safety at the guardrail improved to suit the modern standard. In
new installations, guardrails have to be a minimum of 42" high with no opening more that 4" wide.
SMOKE ALARMS/EMERGENCY ITEMS California law requires that every single family dwelling being sold
must have operational smoke alarms that are approved by the State Fire Marshall and installed in
accordance with the State Fire Marshall's regulations. Obtain a copy of the "Smoke Detector and Water
Heater Statement of Compliance" from a realtor. The regulation requires that a smoke alarm be
installed at every floor level, in bedroom hallways, and in each bedroom at the ceiling above the
entrance door. Smoke alarms are more effective when installed at ceilings and away from vertical walls.
Smoke alarms should be tested periodically by pressing the test button.
Two types of smoke alarms are available, ionization and photoelectric. Ionization type smoke alarms
are better for sensing flaming fires. Photoelectric type smoke alarms are better at sensing smoky fires.
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Nearly all of the smoke alarms installed in homes are ionization types. A smoke alarm was present.
Have photoelectric type smoke alarms installed.
As a precaution, have carbon monoxide detectors installed. In new installations, a carbon monoxide
detector is installed outside each bedroom (or within sight of the bedroom) and one in each bedroom.
For fire safety, consider installing multipurpose fire extinguishers. For suggestions on fire extinguishers,
consult your local fire department.
Store a fire escape roll down ladder to allow for escape to the exterior of the property from any levels
above the ground floor in an emergency.
ASBESTOS Determining whether the following material contains asbestos can only be done by
laboratory analysis, this is beyond the scope of our inspection.
In the rear left closet at the entrance hallway and the basement workshop, the ceiling and walls were
covered with acoustical tile. Some materials of this type may contain asbestos. If removal is planned,
as a precaution, have a sample analyzed. If asbestos is found to be present, the material should be
removed by a qualified asbestos abatement contractor.
Some sheet floor coverings, even those sold now, may contain asbestos. They may become a hazard
when removed and broken up. Also the mastic and adhesives used to apply them often contain
asbestos. If any sheet floor covering is to be removed, as a precaution, have a sample analyzed. If
asbestos is found to be present, the material should be removed by a qualified asbestos abatement
contractor.
The building was older. Other materials that may contain asbestos may be present at the building.
Such materials have not been identified by this inspection and report. For information on methods used
to abate, encapsulate, or remove asbestos containing material, consult a qualified asbestos abatement
contractor.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor make the noted safety and fire retardant
improvements at the laundry chute and make corrections/improvements to the doors and windows
where necessary.
Have a qualified contractor replace the glass in areas of potential impact with safety glass or apply
protective safety film to the glass.
Have a qualified contractor install a grippable handrail at the walls above the bedroom stairs and make
safety improvements to the guardrail.
Have photoelectric type smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors installed.
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MAIN BUILDING - KITCHEN
The appliances were older models. Repair/replacement should be anticipated.
The electric double oven and the electric cooktop were turned on and off. We do not operate timers or
calibrate oven thermostats. The dishwasher was run through a normal cycle. A full operational check of
the appliances should be made by the buyer(s).
The electric cooktop had a downdraft vent. The downdraft vent housing, the fan, and the ducting
needed to be cleaned of grease build up. The filter needed to be made to fit tightly within the
downdraft vent housing.
The grease traps below the cooktop will need to be periodically cleaned.
The flexible splash protector at the garbage disposer drain basket was worn. Have a new one installed.
The cabinets and countertop appeared serviceable except as follows.
Stains and some slight decay were noted at the base of the sink cabinet. Have corrections made.
A small crack was noted in the left countertop.
GENERAL NOTE(S) For fire safety, downdraft vent housings, filters and ducting should be periodically
cleaned.
Range accessories (broiler pans, temperature probes) often are not included in a sale. Ask whether they
are included in the sale.
Have the kitchen area re-caulked wherever necessary. Generally, the caulk at the sink area needs to be
periodically replaced.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have the downdraft vent housing, the fan, and the ducting cleaned of grease
build up. Have the filter made to fit tightly within the downdraft vent housing.
Have a new flexible splash protector installed at the garbage disposer drain basket.
Have a qualified contractor make corrections to the base of the sink cabinet.
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MAIN BUILDING - BATHROOMS
The bathrooms appeared serviceable except as noted.
POWDER ROOM The porcelain sink bowl was cracked. Replacement should be planned.
MASTER BATHROOM A few of the tiles were cracked. Monitor and have sealed when necessary.
The shower compartment had a passive vent that opened to the attic space. The moisture build up in
the attic space from the shower could cause wood deterioration. As an improvement, plan to have an
exhaust fan installed.
The vinyl sweep at the bottom of the shower door was worn. The sweep appeared to be the wrong size
for the door. Have the correct size sweep installed.
Adjustment was needed at the shower door in order for to stay closed.
Only cold water was present at the bidet. The bidet was not original to the master bathroom.
GENERAL NOTE(S) The interior perimeter of the frames at tubs and shower enclosures should be kept
well sealed.
Generally, the caulk in areas such as between the tile and the bathtub, between the floor covering and
the base of the tub or shower enclosure, and the area around the sink should be periodically inspected
for re-caulking needs.
RECOMMENDATION(S) At the master bathroom, have a qualified contractor install the correct size
sweep at the bottom of the shower door and make adjustment in order for the shower door to stay
closed.
If the bidet is to be kept, have a qualified plumbing contractor provide a hot water supply.
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MAIN BUILDING - LAUNDRY
We do not operate laundry appliances. Operate the appliances.
The clothes washer site was provided with an electrical outlet, a water supply, and a 1½" diameter
receptor diameter drain.
A 1½" diameter clothes washer drain receptor generally has a nine gallon per minute maximum
capacity. Some new clothes washers discharge up to thirteen gallons per minute. If a new clothes
washer is to be installed, it may be necessary to install a 2" diameter receptor drain. Alternatively the
clothes washer drain hose could discharge into the laundry tub.
Old concrete laundry tubs are considered to be a health hazard. Dirt can accumulate in the rough
surface. Plan to have the laundry tub replaced with a modern laundry tub.
The dryer site was provided with a gas service.
The moist air duct attached to the clothes dryer was a plastic flexible duct. For fire safety, only rigid
metal or flexible metal duct should be used. Plastic ducting can be easily punctured and may cause a
fire if it collapses or becomes otherwise restricted while in use or during installation. Have the plastic
flexible duct replaced with a flexible metal duct.
The vent cap was attached to a plywood panel that had been installed in the laundry window frame.
This is a non-standard installation. To help prevent lint build up, have the grid at the exterior vent cap
removed.
GENERAL NOTE(S) To help provide safe and efficient operation, the lint filter at a clothes dryer should
be cleaned after each use, the inside of a clothes dryer should be periodically cleaned, and the moist air
ducting and exterior vent cap should be periodically cleaned of lint.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have the moist air duct replaced with a flexible metal duct and have the grid at
the exterior vent cap removed.
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MAIN BUILDING - FIREPLACES
We did not light a fire in the fireboxes. Certainty as to the draft efficiency of the fireplaces can only be
determined after a thorough review by a qualified contractor.
The fireplaces were masonry wood burning units. Wood burning is a source of pollution. There is a
growing movement to ban wood burning. Wood burning fireplaces are energy inefficient, when a fire is
burning it draws interior air up the chimney.
Most fireplaces can be fitted with a gas heating appliance. For information, consult with a qualified
contractor.
CONSERVATORY Two fireplaces were present.
The fireplaces shared the same flue. This can result in poor fireplace draw resulting in spillage of
smoke. The stains on the masonry above the openings of the larger fireplace could imply spillage of
smoke.
The red firebox bricks at the larger fireplace were similar to the bricks at the fireplace front. Regular
bricks can spall or explode under high temperature when the firebox is used. Special firebox bricks are
made for installation in fireboxes. The inner hearth had firebox bricks. The rear of the firebox was
coated with mortar. We could not determine whether the mortar was made with fire clay cement.
Only fire clay cement can be used in a firebox. For safety, do not use the larger fireplace.
Have alteration made so only the smaller fireplace uses the flue.
There was a heavy build up of soot and creosote at the smaller fireplace firebox. Have the firebox
cleaned.
A damper is a metal door above the fireplace which prevents downdrafts and the escape of heated
interior air up the chimney. There were no dampers. For energy conservation, have a damper installed
at the smaller fireplace.
LIVING ROOM Have the small hole in the mortar at the fireplace hearth extension properly sealed.
There was a heavy build up of soot and creosote at the firebox. Have the firebox cleaned.
A small gap was noted at the rear right corner of the firebox. The gap may allow smoke, heat, or fire to
escape the firebox and enter areas not designed for high temperatures. Have the gap sealed.
Fireboxes should be kept well sealed at all times, even minor cracks need to be sealed. Silicate cement
is often used to seal minor cracks in fireboxes, it comes in cartridge tubes available at most hardware
stores.
A small crack was noted in the grout line at the fireplace front. The crack passed up through the
masonry mantel. The crack did not appear to affect the serviceability of the fireplace.
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Have the small hole in the mortar at the fireplace hearth extension properly sealed.
The wood was still in place underneath the hearth extension. Older hearth extensions (the portion of
the hearth which extends into the room) were commonly supported by wood framing which is visible in
the sub-area. This practice was discontinued in the 1950s. The wood framing may ignite if hot coals or
ashes are allowed to spill onto the hearth extension, or if these wood supports extend to the area under
the fire pit. As a precaution, consider having a non combustible support installed.
CHIMNEYS As the roof was not accessed, we did not access the top of the chimneys.
Most chimneys are lined with clay tiles. The purpose of a liner is to contain any potential chimney fire.
Liners and the mortar which join them together may deteriorate with age and use, reducing their
effectiveness. When a flue is inaccessible, we cannot determine if a flue liner is defective or if no flue
liner is present.
As seen from the fireboxes, the flues needed to be cleaned.
Most masonry chimneys will likely fail in a major earthquake. All masonry structures are vulnerable in
an earthquake. The only real protection against chimney failure in a major seismic event may be
removal or replacement with a metal flue. Metal flues enclosed in wood or stucco siding can be often
be designed to blend in with older architectural styles.
The metal brace at the living room fireplace chimney will not prevent the chimney from collapse in a
significant earthquake.
A chimney cap/spark arrester was present at each flue.
GENERAL NOTE(S) The National Fire Protection Agency recommends a "level 2" inspection by a qualified
chimney sweep whenever a building is being sold. For fire safety, the fireplace and chimney flue should
be inspected regularly by a qualified contractor and cleaned when necessary.
For fire safety, the fireplace and chimney should be inspected regularly by a qualified chimney sweep
and cleaned when necessary.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Obtain a copy of the fireplace and chimney inspection and address any
questions to the contractor.
Have a qualified contractor clean the chimney flues, inspect the fireplaces, flues, and chimneys, and
make corrections/improvements as necessary.
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MAIN BUILDING - ELECTRICAL
The visible and accessible portions of the electrical system were inspected. We do not check service
entry wiring or underground cables. We do not analyze circuit distribution or load demands, which is a
job for a qualified electrical contractor.
As there is a potential hazard to life and property, we recommend that all electrical repair and upgrades
be performed by a qualified electrical contractor. All electrical work should be performed with the
power shut off at the service panel.
SERVICE An underground lateral service was present.
An abandoned overhead service conduit was present.
MAIN PANEL The double metered main panel was located at the front of the middle right side of the
building. The main panel was of circuit breaker design. Two 100 amp double pole disconnects were
present. Both 120 volt and 240 volt services were available.
Two 100 amp double pole breakers were present.
CAPACITY For the connected electrical loads, the 100 amp service capacity appeared just adequate. A
new building of this size would have a larger service capacity. The installation of gas appliances in the
kitchen and the installation of a gas dryer will ease the electrical demand. For information on increasing
the service capacity, consult with a qualified electrical contractor.
BONDING For electrical safety gas piping, water piping, and any piping which can become energized
should be bonded. Bonding refers to the electrical connection between conductive parts so that any
fault current imposed on those parts will cause the circuit breaker to trip. Bonding is typically done at
the water heater where the water piping and gas piping are generally easily accessible.
The water piping at the water heater was bonded. Have the gas piping bonded.
When a dielectric union is installed between dissimilar metals (such as copper and steel) bonding should
be restored by a jumper wire. Though the jumper may reduce the ability of the dielectric union to
prevent corrosion, electrical safety is a greater priority.
A dielectric union was present at the piping below water shut off valve at the water heater. The
dielectric union will negate the bonding of the plumbing piping. Have a bonding jumper wire installed
between the copper and galvanized pipes at the location of the dielectric union.
SUBPANELS A subpanel gets power from the main panel and distributes it through the branch circuits.
• A circuit breaker design subpanel was located in the front right basement. The subpanel was fairly
new.
A 90 amp double pole breaker, a 20 amp double pole breaker, three 20 amp single pole breakers, one
15 amp double pole breaker, and one 15 amp single pole breaker were present.
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The 20 amp double pole breaker labeled "Hot tub" was in the off position. No circuit was connected to
the breaker.
Circuit breakers should be periodically switched off and on to assure operational integrity. The
television and compressor type equipment (refrigerators, freezers, etc.) should be turned off
beforehand. We do not determine which outlets, switches, and fixtures are connected to each circuit
breaker.
Two wires of different circuits were connected to a single lug on the bottom right 20 amp circuit
breaker. This condition is a potential hazard as it could cause loose connections, overheating, and
possibly a fire. Have the condition corrected.
• A circuit breaker design subpanel was located at the top of the basement stairs. The location is a
potential hazard. In new installations, a subpanel has to be located so that it can be worked on from a
flat surface that is provided with a 36" wide by 30" deep free area in front of the subpanel. The primary
purpose of this requirement is to allow unobstructed work space and sufficient room to pull back in
case of electric shock.
A 40 amp double pole breaker, a 30 amp double pole breaker, two 30 amp single pole breakers, two 20
amp single pole breakers, and two 15 amp single pole breakers were present.
A #12 gauge conductor was attached to the terminal at the bottom left 30 amp single pole breaker. For
electrical safety, #12 gauge wiring should have an overcurrent protection of no more than 20 amps.
Two neutral conductors had been installed at the same terminal at the neutral buss bar. Neutral
conductors should be installed in their own terminal.
The subpanel was manufactured by Federal Pacific. Concerns have been raised over the safety of some
models of Federal Pacific circuit breaker panels. In some models the breakers may malfunction, failing
to actually disconnect the power when turned off or failing to go back on properly once they have been
tripped.
The circuits should be clearly labeled.
• A socket fuse design subpanel with 18 circuits was located at the top landing of the basement stairs.
One of the circuits was not in use. Ten 20 amp circuits and seven 15 amp circuits were present.
The circuits should be clearly labeled.
REPALCEMENT Due to the concerns with Federal Pacific panels and the socket design subpanel being
functionally obsolete, have a new circuit breaker design subpanel installed to serve the circuits at the
Federal Pacific subpanel and at the socket fused design subpanel.
WIRING The visible wiring methods used were armor (BX) cable, non metallic sheathed cable, conduit,
and knob and tube wiring.
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Knob and tube wiring uses porcelain insulating knobs, tubes, and flexible non metallic tubing for the
protection and support of single insulated conductors. Knob and tube wiring, although obsolete, is
generally considered safe providing no modifications are made to it. Over time, the insulation on the
wiring can become brittle, especially at light fixtures where the wires are exposed to heat. Due to the
potential for deterioration of the insulation, the replacement of sections or all of the knob and tube
wiring with modern wiring may be necessary. Wherever knob and tube wiring is exposed during
remodeling work, have it replaced with new wiring.
In older buildings, light fixtures are sometimes installed without fixture boxes. This type of installation
is a potential fire hazard. As a precaution, when electrical work is carried out, have the contractor
remove the covers at the light fixtures, make sure that fixture boxes are present, and inspect the wiring
in the boxes.
Insulation had been installed over the knob and tube wiring in the attic space. This type of wiring was
originally intended to be installed in the open air which helps to cool the wire. Placing insulation over
the wiring can cause it to overheat. This has been done in many attics in the past. To help prevent
overheating, have a qualified electrical contractor make sure that all the circuits with knob and tube
wiring have an overcurrent protection of no more than 15 amps.
Since 1991, the California Housing Code allows ceiling containing knob and tube wiring to be insulated,
provided certain conditions are met. These include the certification that the wiring is safe by a licensed
electrical contractor, filing the certification with the building jurisdiction, posting signs stating there are
knob and tube wiring under the insulation, and restricting the insulation to non-flammable and nonconductive.
A non metallic sheathed cable in the small unfinished attic closet in the front right bedroom was
exposed. Unprotected cables are susceptible to damage. Have all non metallic sheathed cables below
7' suitably protected.
When electrical work is carried out, the electrical contractor should inspect all the accessible wiring (e.g.
that may be in cabinets and behind/below drawers at the built in cabinets) to make sure that it is
properly protected from damage. Any abandoned wiring should be removed.
Have the loose energized armor (BX) cable in the master bedroom closet removed and the opening in
the light fixture box that would be left properly covered.
A permanently installed (stapled in place and provided with an outlet) low gauge extension cord,
sometimes known as zip cord wiring, was noted at the rear left closet at the entrance hallway. Have it
removed.
The cord serving some of the wall fixtures was worn. The cord serving the pendant light fixture at the
entrance hall was worn. For safety, have new cords installed at the light fixtures where necessary.
SWITCH BOX To help prevent unauthorized access to the energized interior of the electric shut off
switch box attached to the right side of the rear left basement (at the location of the furnace and water
heater), have a padlock installed.
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JUNCTION BOX An abandoned subpanel at the top of the basement stairs was now being used as a
junction box. No wire connections were noted, cables passed through the box. For safety, have the
hinged cover secured in place with a screw.
SWITCHES AND OUTLETS Due to the presence of furnishings and storage, some of the outlets were not
accessible therefore no opinions can be provided regarding any conditions that may be present but
were not noticeable at the time of our inspection. When the building is vacant, have all the outlets
inspected and corrections made where necessary.
We operated a representative sample of switches and inserted a plug in outlet tester at a
representative sample of accessible outlets. A three pronged outlet tester (an inexpensive device
available at most hardware stores) should be used to check all the three hole outlets for proper
installation prior to use.
Sometimes the function of some of the switches in a building is unknown. Due to the time constraint,
we are unable to determine their use, our client(s) should familiarize themselves with their function.
We could not determine the function of the switches at the front of the left side of the conservatory.
Several of the light switches felt worn. Have all worn light switches replaced with properly installed new
light switches.
The newer wall fixtures in the master bedroom needed to be positively secured.
A number of light fixtures did not work at the time of our inspection. Examples include but may not be
limited to the following, one of the recessed light fixtures in the room off the kitchen, two of the
recessed light fixtures at the rear portion of the kitchen ceiling, the two middle recessed light fixtures at
the kitchen ceiling, and the light bulb at the double electric oven. New light bulbs should be installed as
soon as possible to make sure the fixtures are operational and corrections made if not.
There was no light fixture in the master bathroom shower enclosure. Consider having an approved
fixture suitable for a wet location installed.
For fire safety, replace all light bulbs in closets and small spaces with screw in fluorescent bulbs. Light
bulbs that are near combustible material pose a fire hazard. For fire safety, in new installations, only
exposed fluorescent light fixtures that are at least 6" from the nearest shelf, enclosed incandescent light
fixtures that are at least 12" from the nearest shelf, or recessed incandescent light fixtures are allowed
in closets.
We do not check to see if a building has sufficient outlets to suit individual electrical needs. Older
buildings often have an insufficient number of circuits and outlets when compared to modern
standards. In some older buildings, a room may have only one outlet. In some cases, this can
encourage the use of extension cords which can create a hazardous condition.
The outlets were two hole and three hole. While the majority of household appliances are double
insulated and have two pronged plugs, kitchen appliances (e.g. microwaves, refrigerators, and
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computers) have three pronged plugs that require three hole grounded outlets. Use only double
insulated appliances at the two hole outlets. The slots at older two hole outlets can become worn over
time. Replacement should be anticipated.
The floor outlet in the living room was the incorrect type. It can be easily damaged by foot traffic. Have
the correct type of outlet and cover plate installed.
We could not locate an outlet in the powder room. The lack of an outlet in a small bathroom in a
building of this age is common.
The cover plate and outlet at the laundry site needed to be positively secured.
An old style two hole outlet in an open outlet box was noted in the cold air return to the heating system
below the bedroom stairs. Have the outlet removed, the wires properly capped, and a cover plate
installed.
GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTERS A GFCI protects against hazardous electrical shock that may be
caused if the body becomes a path through which electricity travels to reach ground. In new
construction ground fault protection is now required for all outlets in bathrooms, garages (except those
in spaces designated for appliances), outdoors, outlets serving the kitchen counter tops and in
unfinished basements (except those in spaces designated for appliances).
GFCIs come in two types, circuit breaker and outlet. The outlet type is the most common. When
protected by the GFCI, you may still feel a shock, but the GFCI should cut it off quickly enough so a
person in normal health should not have serious electrical injury (infants, very small children, etc. may
still be affected). A GFCI should provide adequate protection even when the outlet is not grounded.
Some building departments allow a GFCI receptacle to replace ungrounded two hole outlets.
GFCI outlets should be tested periodically by pressing the test and reset buttons on the face of the
outlets.
As a safety upgrade, have the outlets in locations that in new construction are required to be GFCI
protected replaced with GFCI outlets. Note that older outlet boxes sometimes are not big enough to
receive modern GFCI outlets therefore new outlet box(es) or outlet box extensions may have to be
installed.
In bathrooms, GFCI outlets are installed near the sinks.
The exterior GFCI outlet attached to the fence at the rear left corner of the left patio did not test, have
a new GFCI outlet installed. The electrical contractor should inspect all the exterior wiring and make
corrections where necessary.
The three hole outlet above the workbench at the rear right basement showed open ground (either the
grounding wire was not connected or no grounding wire was provided). As an electrical safety
improvement, have the outlet replaced with a GFCI outlet.
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Several old two hole outlets were present above the workbench at the rear right basement. As seen
through the small rectangular opening, the outlets were wired with single strand wiring. This type of
wiring is sub-standard. Have the outlets and wiring removed.
ARC FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTERS (AFCI) In new installations, outlets serving all rooms (except
kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms and garages have to be AFCI (arc fault circuit interrupter)
protected. An AFCI helps to prevent electrical fires by recognizing electrical arcing on a circuit. An arc
fault is an unintended arc created by current flowing through an unplanned path. Arcing creates high
intensity heat at the point of the arc resulting in burning particles that may easily ignite combustible
material.
As an electrical safety improvement, consider having the circuit(s) serving the outlets in the bedrooms
AFCI protected.
WALL HEATERS An electric wall heater was present in the hall bathroom, in the master bathroom, and
in the library. The front of electric heaters will get hot and the grills are too wide to prevent fingers or
objects from coming in contact with the heating elements.
The wall heater in the hall bathroom was old and worn. The heating element was broken. Using a volt
stick, we noted an electric current at the heater even though the knob was turned to the off position.
This is a hazardous condition.
The heating element wall heater in the master bathroom was broken and loose.
For safety, have the wall heaters removed and, if needed, have a new wall heaters installed.
Alternatively, have the wires capped and the openings in the walls properly covered.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Install a padlock at the electric shut off switch box.
Have new light bulbs installed at the noted light fixtures as soon as possible and have corrections made
as necessary.
Have a qualified electrical contractor make corrections/improvements to the electrical system.
Have a qualified electrical contractor remove the wall heaters and, if needed, install have new wall
heaters. Alternatively, have the electrical contractor remove them, cap the wires, and properly cover
the opening left.
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MAIN BUILDING - PLUMBING
GAS PIPING The main gas shut off valve was located at the front of the middle right side of the building.
The gas supply to the building can be turned off by turning the valve 90 (right angle to the pipe). Two
special wrenches were present on the ground below the shut off valve.
For earthquake preparedness, devices can be attached to the gas piping in order to prevent a gas flow
in case of pipe breakage. For information, consult with a qualified plumbing contractor. Some
insurance companies now require such devices to be installed. For information, consult with your
insurance agent/carrier.
Two gas meters were located behind the access door at the exterior basement stairwell. One meter
was labeled "6106 half rear". The other meter was not labeled.
A gas smell was noted in the area of the meters. Have the local utility company investigate the
condition and make the appropriate correction.
The gas piping in the left basement needed to be better supported.
A gas pipe in the crawlspace was in contact with the sub-area soil. This could result in corrosion. All gas
piping should be properly supported. Gas piping in the ground should be wrapped with approved
material. Have the piping properly supported.
What appeared to be gas piping equipped with a shut off valve was located opposite the middle of the
left side of the building.
WATER SUPPLY PIPING Only one meter and main water shut-off valve was located in the concrete meter
box at the sidewalk. To shut off the water supply to the buildings the valve is turned at a right angle to
the water supply pipe.
What we believe to be the main water shut off valve was located below the front right corner of the
front right basement ceiling. Check its operation.
The underground main supply piping was not accessible, we could not determine the material or pipe
diameter. At the shut off valve, the main pipe was ¾" diameter. In new installations, a larger diameter
water main would be installed to serve the buildings.
The water pressure was 75 psi. at the time of our inspection. This is within the normal range.
A water pressure regulator was present. One is typically installed when the incoming water pressure
exceeds 80 psi. Most modern regulators have a sand screen to help prevent them from becoming
clogged. The screen needs periodic cleaning to help prevent a reduction in water flow.
The visible piping in the building was galvanized iron, copper, and brass.
Galvanized iron piping is common in older buildings. It is prone to rusting and to the build up of
minerals which will restrict the water flow. Water hardness and pipe quality are the main factors that
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affect the useful life of the piping. Eventual replacement of the galvanized piping should be anticipated.
Wherever galvanized piping is exposed, e.g. during remodeling work, have it replaced with copper
piping.
Due to the presence of galvanized piping, the aerators at the sink spouts will need to be periodically
cleaned of corrosion deposits.
The water flow at the powder room sink was low.
At the rest of the faucets, we found no excessive reduction with full demand when more than one
faucet was operated. The determination of what is an acceptable flow for your own needs is beyond
the scope of our inspection. Check the flow.
Turn on the cold water faucets and flush the toilet. Turn off the water, then repeat the procedure with
the hot water faucets. Usually, not all the fixtures will be used at the same time. If needed, to help
improve the flow, have the sink spouts, the showerheads, the valve seats at the faucets and the angle
stops (shut offs below the sink) inspected for blockage.
Sometimes backflushing the pipes can help improve the flow, check with a qualified plumbing
contractor for information.
Depending on the distance between each fixture and the water heater, the delivery time of hot water
to a faucet will vary.
There were direct connections between the galvanized iron piping and copper water piping. The direct
connection of dissimilar metals can cause mild electrolysis which may lead to rusting and leakage. No
signs of leakage were noted. To correct this condition, have the connections made with brass nipples
that are a minimum of 6" long. This will also provide continuity for the electrical bonding.
Angle stops (shut off valves) are usually found beneath plumbing fixtures. They allow the water supply
to the fixture to be turned off for repair or to stop a leak. They are often not operated and may freeze
in place or leak when operated. They were not operated in our inspection.
The hose attached to the smaller spray device at the kitchen sink was not attached to a water supply.
Have it removed and have the opening in the sink deck properly covered or have a soap dispenser
installed.
The showerhead to shower arm connection at the master bathroom shower enclosure leaked. Have the
condition corrected.
At the rear right corner of the rear right basement ceiling, we noted corrosion where the saddle valve
serving the copper tubing was attached to the galvanized iron pipe. Have the condition corrected.
WASTE AND VENT PIPING The visible drain, waste, and vent system was cast iron, galvanized iron, and
copper.
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Over time, older cast iron drains will corrode, crack, and leak. This is especially the case with drains
serving kitchen sinks.
The rust pitting on the vertical cast iron pipe at the front left corner of the front right basement implies
past leakage. We prodded the areas and found no holes. The cast iron pipes pipe should be
periodically inspected and replacement made when necessary.
At the hall bathroom and master bathroom, the bathtubs were designed with no overflow. If water is
left running and the stoppers are in place, water will overflow the tubs.
Drip leakage was noted at the drain basket to sink connection in the hall bathroom. Have the condition
corrected.
The drain assembly serving the sink in each bathroom was worn. As a precaution against leakage, have
new drain assemblies installed.
CROSS CONNECTION A cross connection is a plumbing configuration which would allow the
contaminated water to enter the potable water supply.
The fill valve was below the water level in the tanks at the original toilets. The condition may allow the
tank water to siphon back in the water supply. Have modifications made.
The bottom of the faucet spouts at the bathroom sinks were less than the required clearance between
the flood rim level of the sink as is required in new installations.
The tub spouts were below the flood rim level (top) of the tubs. If the tubs are filled up to this height,
contamination of the potable water could happen.
There was a handheld showerhead at the hall bathroom. If the handheld showerhead falls into the
used tub water, gray water from the tub could contaminate the potable water supply. As a precaution,
consider having an anti-siphon device or a regular showerhead installed.
In new installations, backflow preventers are screwed on to exterior hose bibs (faucets) to help prevent
the back flow of contaminated water into the building water supply. As a precaution, have backflow
preventers installed on the exterior hose bibs.
SEWER LATERAL The sewer lateral is the main drain from the building to the main sewer. The sewer
lateral in many older homes was made with clay pipes. Clay pipes can be easily damaged, they can be
blocked by roots, or they may crack/separate due to ground movement.
Private sewer lateral compliance: The East Bay Municipal Utilities District (EBMUD) waste water control
ordinance requires property owners in certain areas of EBMUD waste water service area to obtain a
compliance certificate that shows their private sewer lateral (PSL') are without defects and have proper
connections. The ordinance requires property owners to test and, if needed, repair or replace their
private sewer lateral when selling their property. For more information see the East Bay Disclosure and
Disclaimer Advisory) and go to www.ebmud.com/psl.
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The newer concrete and cover labeled "Sewer" at the sidewalk and the sewer lateral clean out in the
ground opposite the left side of the building imply the installation of a new sewer lateral. As informed,
a new sewer lateral was installed and an EBMUD certificate of compliance has been issued.
OIL TANK The presence of a capped pipe that protruded through the slab in the left basement housing
the furnace and water heater, the presence of the copper pipes at the front wall of the left basement,
and the presence of the U shaped pipe attached to the exterior front left side of the building and at the
middle of the left side of the building imply that an oil tank(s) is present at the property.
Oil was commonly used to fuel furnaces in the past. There is concern about leakage from underground
storage tanks contaminating the surrounding ground. For information on underground storage tanks,
contact the local Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) office and the Alameda County Environmental,
1131 Harbor Bay Parkway, Room 250, Alameda, CA 94502, tel. 510.567.6700.
Have a qualified contractor who specializes in oil tank removal inspect for the presence of a tank(s).
GENERAL NOTE(S) Some unusual conditions cannot be determined through a general inspection but
would only be known under daily living conditions (e.g. drain back ups, noisy plumbing, etc.) The
determination of what is an acceptable noise level when the plumbing fixtures are in use is beyond the
scope of our inspection.
The gas, water, and drain piping was not fully accessible and an inspection of each connection was not
made. The standard test for leakage is to have the piping pressure tested. This is sometimes required
before the gas can be turned on after it has been disconnected. With testing and a close inspection of
all the piping, leakage or other defects may be found.
Waste piping should be periodically cleaned to remove any accumulated grease, hair and dirt to help
prevent future debris blockage and subsequent drainage failure.
The underground sewer piping was not included in this inspection and report. All observations of the
plumbing system are based on what could be seen. The system was inspected only to the point where
it entered the ground at the building.
To conserve energy and to help prevent connectors from bursting during cold weather, insulate all
exposed water piping.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have the local utility company investigate the gas smell in the area of the meters
and make the appropriate corrections.
Have a qualified plumbing contractor make corrections/improvements to the plumbing system.
Check the water flow.
Have a qualified contractor who specializes in oil tank removal inspect for the presence of a tank(s).
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MAIN BUILDING - HEATING
Heating was supplied by a high efficiency condensing gas fired, forced air furnace with an electric
ignition and a maximum input heating capacity of 132,000 BTUs.
The serial number showed that the furnace was manufactured in 1988. Furnaces have a life expectancy
of 20-25 years. Replacement of the furnace in the near future should be anticipated.
The flexible gas connector ran through the side of the furnace. If the flexible gas connector makes
contact with the sharp edges of the hole, vibration may cause a tear in it. As a precaution, a rubber
protector can be installed at the hole.
OPERATION The furnace was operated. Check that the rooms have heat registers as necessary and
check the heat flow delivery at the registers. The determination of the ability of a heating system to
heat the interior of a building to a comfortable level and the determination of what is an acceptable
noise level when the furnace is in use are beyond the scope of our inspection.
SERVICE Regular scheduled maintenance lowers energy cost and prevents unnecessary repair. Furnaces
require routine servicing for safe and efficient operation. Consider purchasing a biannual professional
maintenance and service contract. Have a qualified heating contractor service the heating system.
HEAT EXCHANGER A heat exchanger is a metal chamber inside the furnace which surrounds the flame.
It separates the air which circulates through the building from the fumes generated by the burner
flame. With age and use, holes or cracks can occur in the heat exchanger; this can allow poisonous
fumes to enter the living space. When a heat exchanger is defective, the furnace has to be replaced.
Heat exchangers should be inspected as part of routine service maintenance.
CONDENSATE The condensate drain discharged at the floor drain in the slab. The drain should be
periodically water tested to make sure it is clear.
Furnace condensate is acidic and can damage drain piping. Have a condensate neutralization kit
installed.
The stains in the blower compartment imply condensate leakage. Have the condition corrected.
FILTER The filter was a washable type that should be cleaned after every three months of use. The filter
was clean.
DUCTING Warm air from the furnace is distributed to the conditioned spaces through a ducting system.
The visible ducting in the sub-area was newer.
Have the small tears in the plastic insulation on the heating ducting repaired.
As seen in the boot registers, asbestos abatement had been carried out in the past. The asbestos
abatement consisted of having the boot register to duct connections sealed with duct tape and/or the
sheeting at the boot register to duct connections painted. Sheeting is a heavy gauge white colored
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paper which was used to seal the connections in the past. In older homes, sheeting usually contains
some asbestos material.
Some of the heat register covers were loose.
Have the heat register covers removed, the ducting directly below vacuum cleaned, and the covers
positively secured.
The hair at some of the heat registers imply that a cat(s) or dog(s) had lived at the building.
The cold air return register was located below the bedroom stairs. The metal grid at the floor of the
cold air return register was covered with dust. Have it cleaned. Have the car battery in the cold air
register removed and properly disposed of.
VENTING The furnace is an induced draft, high efficiency condensing type. The increased efficiency
creates a lower flue temperature and allows plastic piping to be used in the venting system.
The inducer fan controls the flow of air through the burners and improve the efficiency of the furnace.
The vent opening at the inducer fan was 2" in diameter. The vent pipe was then increased to a 3"
diameter plastic (ABS) pipe.
As there was no manual, we could not determine if the vent pipe and combustion air piping is correctly
sized.
The plastic vent pipe and combustion air vent pipe were supported with metal straps. Metal straps are
not approved for supporting plastic pipe as abrasion can occur when the pipe expands/contracts due to
changes in temperature. Have approved plastic supports installed.
Have adequate clearance provided between the vegetation and the vent pipe and combustion air
openings at the exterior of the building.
GENERAL NOTE(S) We do not inspect individual safety valves (thermocouple, gas valve limit, fan
switches, etc).
Do not store combustible material near heating appliances.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have the car battery in the cold air return removed and properly disposed of.
Have a qualified heating contractor service the heating system and make corrections/improvements.
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MAIN BUILDING – WATER HEATER
Hot water was supplied by a gas fired water heater with a 60-gallon capacity.
The water heater was old and had experienced a normal service life. The top portion of the tank
showed surface corrosion. Replacement in the near future should be anticipated.
For earthquake preparedness, at the point of sale, California law requires water heaters to be strapped
in accordance with the local building department's requirements. Only two straps were present.
The strapping was minimal by present day standards.
Have the water heater better strapped to help it resist falling or horizontal displacement due to
earthquake motion. The preferred method for securing a larger capacity water heater is to have three
straps fully encircle the water heater. The upper strap should be set 9" below the top of the water
heater, a middle strap installed, and the lower strap set 4" above the temperature control, the straps
secured with bolts, and stand off blocking installed between the water heater and the wall.
The water piping connected to the water heater was rigid copper. For earthquake preparedness, the
connection should be flexible connectors. Having flexible water supply connectors installed will help
reduce the danger of pipe breakage due to earthquake motion.
VENTING Spillage of the combustion product which contains poisonous gases occurs when normal
venting is obstructed by improper configuration, improper vent piping materials, vent blockage or
insufficient combustion venting.
The water heater vented to a flue at a masonry chimney. Masonry chimneys heat up slowly and the low
temperature may restrict the upward of the flue combustion product resulting in spillage of the
combustion product. For this reason, water heater manufacturers do not recommend unlined masonry
chimneys for venting.
The stains on the outer cover above the combustion chamber opening imply spillage of the combustion
product (which can contain hot poisonous gases). We held a mirror above the opening after the water
heater burner had been running for several minutes and noted misting of the mirror. The condition
verifies the spillage of the combustion product. This is a potential health hazard. Have corrections
made to the venting system.
Water heaters with direct venting are available so the vent pipe can discharge at the exterior of the
building.
TEMPERATURE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE (TPR VALVE) If a water heater malfunctions and overheats,
pressure builds up in the tank. Therefore, it is essential to have a TPR valve. Instead of the tank
exploding from a pressure build up, the valve activates, releasing the pressure build up in the form of
scalding water. In new installations, the TPR valve drain terminates at the exterior of the building 6" to
24" from the ground point down so that if the valve is released the condition would be more noticeable
and flooding of the area where the water heater is located could be prevented.
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A TPR valve was installed at the T fitting at the outgoing hot water pipe. This is not as efficient as a
modern installation because the probe in this type of installation does not enter the tank. In modern
installations, a TPR valve is installed in the hole provided by the manufacturer.
The TPR valve drain terminated adjacent the water heater. A floor drain was present in the slab. The
drain should be periodically water tested to make sure it is clear.
We do not check the operation of TPR valves as they can be difficult to reseat.
GENERAL NOTE(S) Water temperature over 125° Fahrenheit can cause severe burns or death from
scalding. Children, the disabled and the elderly are at highest risk of being scalded. Check the water
temperature before bathing or showering. The temperature can be adjusted at the water heater
thermostat. Temperature limiting valves are available to help control fluctuating temperatures.
Water heater tanks should be flushed periodically to remove any accumulated sediment and mineral
deposits.
Do not store combustible material near the water heater(s).
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified heating/plumbing contractor make corrections/improvements
to the water heater.
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MAIN BUILDING - STRUCTURE
The visible and accessible portions of the foundation and of the main structural members were
inspected. The underground support system is unknown (the existence of piers, width of footings,
specific load bearing quality of subsoil, etc). We do not probe the soil adjacent to foundations to
determine their depth. Our opinions are based on a visual inspection.
SUB AREA The sub area consisted of a crawlspace and basements.
Have the cellulose debris in the crawlspace removed.
To help prevent decay, have adequate clearance provided between the bottom of the plywood panels
attached to the rear wall of the crawlspace and the soil.
The clearance between the sub area soil and the underside of the floor joists at the middle of the
crawlspace was low therefore the area could not be accessed. Observations of the middle portion of
the crawlspace were made from what could be seen from the rear of the crawlspace.
In new construction, a minimum of 18" clearance is required to help prevent wood destroying insects
from tubing up to the lumber. The condition is sometimes corrected by covering the exposed sub-area
soil with a layer of concrete, this is sometimes referred to as "Ratproofing".
To help prevent small animal entry, have ¼" corrosion resistant screen installed at the vent opening
where piping passed through at the front of the right middle side of the building.
EXTERIOR BASEMENT STAIRS The greenhouse window protruded above the stairs. This is a potential
hazard to persons using the stairs. Have the underside of the greenhouse window highlighted and
protected as necessary to help prevent injury to person(s) using the stairs.
For safety, have a guardrail installed at the top of the wall at the basement stairwell and have a
grippable handrail installed at the stairs.
INTERIOR BASEMENT STAIRS The headroom at the bottom of the stairs was low. Use the area with
caution. Have the edge of the ceiling highlighted and protected as necessary to help prevent injury to
person(s) using the area.
The stairs were steep, use with caution.
The top of the handrail prevented the interior door to the basement from being closed. Have the
condition corrected.
The handrail was low. In new installations, for safety a handrail has to be set at a minimum of 34" and a
maximum of 38" above and parallel to the stair nosing and it has to run the full length of the stairs.
The ends of the handrail were not terminated to the wall to help prevent clothing from being caught in
the ends of the handrail.
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There was no grippable handrail at the bottom of the stairs.
For safety, have a handrail installed the full length of the stairs to suit the new installations standards.
The opening below the guardrail at the bottom of the basement stairs were wide enough to allow a
child to fall through. In new installations, the maximum width of an opening at a guardrail can be no
more than 4". You may wish to have the safety at the guardrail improved to suit the modern standard.
VENTILATION Sub areas should be provided with ventilation openings to the exterior. Ventilation is
important to help control moisture build up. For maximum effect, ventilation openings should be
installed equally along the length of two opposite sides.
Ventilation of the sub area was provided by foundation vents, it appeared to be minimal. In new
installations, ventilation openings are required to have an area of not less than 1 square foot for each
150 square feet of sub area.
FOUNDATION The building had a perimeter and interior concrete foundation with interior post and
beam supports bearing upon isolated concrete piers and retaining walls at the basement.
Older foundations generally have no steel reinforcement and are not set as deeply into the ground as is
required with new foundations. This can make them more vulnerable to movement that can lead to
cracking.
A few small cracks were present.
There appeared to be no significant foundation wall cracks or separations.
The conservatory had a concrete slab foundation.
FRAMING The building was wood frame construction.
The roof rafters were 2x6 at 24" on center. The ceiling joists were 2x4 at 16" on center. The floor joists
were 2x10s at 16" on center. The cripple wall framing was 2x4s at 16" on center. The sub-floor
consisted of 1x6 boards.
Damage of the type caused by wood destroying insects was noted at the top plate of the cripple wall
framing at the upper front left side of the left basement. Check the termite report.
MARGINAL TO BELOW GRADE A marginal to below grade condition was noted at the front left, the left
foundation, and the middle of the right foundation. This is where the top of the foundation is near the
same level or just below the exterior grade. The condition can result in damage to the bottom of the
cripple wall framing. Check the termite report. The condition is typically corrected by increasing the
height of the foundation by capping it or by installing a flashed concrete curb at the exterior of the wall,
and any decayed wood is removed and new wood installed as necessary. Where soil is next to the
marginal to below grade section of foundation, the soil could be lowered.
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EARTHQUAKE PREPAREDNESS A foundation sill plate is the lowest horizontal framing member that sits
on the foundation. For earthquake preparedness, sill plates are secured to the foundation and shear
bracing and load transfer ties are installed. For more information on earthquake preparedness
measures, go to www.abag.ca.gov.
As seen in the main crawlspace, seismic retrofit work had been carried out. Foundation anchor bolts
were noted at the visible sill plate. Plywood panels was present at the cripple wall framing. Flat metal
plates were attached to the sill plate and bolted to the foundation. The determination of the adequacy
of the work is beyond the scope of the inspection.
The foundation anchor bolts had been installed at an angle. They were approximately ¾" from the edge
of the sill plate. This will make the bolts less effective. Foundation anchor bolts should be installed
vertically and at least 1½" from the edge of the sill plate.
Some of the nails at the plywood panels were overdriven. If the plywood was installed to provide
seismic bracing, the overdriven nails will make the bracing less effective.
Not all of the building frame was bolted to the foundation.
Some checking of the wood beams were noted. Reinforcement of the checked wood beams can be
made when earthquake preparedness improvements are made.
Unreinforced masonry, such as the clay block wall partition wall, is susceptible to collapse in a
significant earthquake.
Have a qualified engineer determine the appropriate seismic upgrades for a building of this age and
design and have a qualified contractor carry them out.
WATER INTRUSION The inspection was carried out during dry weather.
As the basement was below grade, during periods of prolonged rainfall, some water/moisture may
enter. As a precaution, all storage should be elevated above the slab, e.g. by placing storage on pallets
and not storing it against the concrete walls. It is not unusual to find unexpected water entry in below
grade areas that have been dry for years.
The stains on the bottom of the vertical 2x4s at the roughly made shelving at the front of the left side of
the left basement and at the bottom of water heater support legs imply past moisture entry.
The drain at the bottom of the exterior basement stairwell and the drains in the basement slab should
be periodically water tested. We could not determine where the drains discharge. In most jurisdictions
surface drainage cannot discharge into the sewer system.
With lack of use, the water in the P-trap of floor drains can evaporate. If the floor drains emit an odor,
the drain trap can be re primed by slowly pouring water into it. Pouring a small amount of mineral oil
on the surface of the water in the trap will help to prevent evaporation.
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The square opening with a screen at the lower portion of the left wall of the left basement (which
housed the furnace and water heater) was below grade, and may allow water entry. Have the opening
properly sealed.
Efflorescence (mineral deposits) was noted on the front foundation. Efflorescence is a white powdery
hydrate that forms on concrete or masonry when moisture is present.
The sub area soil at the right crawlspace was wet. As informed, when the irrigation system is on, water
flows down the exterior stairwell. Have the irrigation system inspected for leakage. We did note what
appeared to be the cable serving the irrigation system was loosely laid on the sub area soil in the right
crawlspace. Have the cables positively attached to the building frame.
The rest of the sub area soil was dry.
Damp/wet sub areas can lead to moisture build up which can affect the foundation, the framing, and
the indoor air quality. To help control moisture build up, a vapor barrier is installed over the sub area
soil to help reduce the humidity in the sub area by trapping moisture against the soil. For maximum
effect, the vapor barrier should be sealed to the foundation and piers. It has been common practice to
use plastic sheeting as a vapor barrier, especially made vapor barrier material is now available. Some
companies specialize in this vapor barrier installation.
If modifications/repairs to the irrigation system do not prevent water intrusion at the right crawlspace,
have a vapor barrier installed.
The exterior measures that can be taken to help control water intrusion into sub areas include making
sure that gutters and downspouts are in good working order, that the downspouts discharge away from
the foundations, keeping all the exterior surfaces sealed, grading the exterior soil to slope away from
the foundation, and making sure that all inground drains are clear.
After the above improvements have been implemented, the sub area should be checked during the
rainy season to see if further improvements are necessary.
When water intrusion is a problem, very often sump pumps are installed at the low spots in the sub
area and/or a foundation drain is installed at the building perimeter.
GENERAL NOTE(S) The adequacy and condition of area soils, footings, foundations, and structural
framing can only be determined by qualified engineer(s). This is beyond the scope of our inspection.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have the underside of the greenhouse window highlighted and protected as
necessary to help prevent injury to person(s) using the stairs.
Have a qualified contractor install a guardrail installed at the top of the basement stairwell and install a
grippable handrail at the stairs.
Have the edge of the ceiling above the interior basement stairs highlighted and protected as necessary
to help prevent injury to person(s) using the area. Have a qualified contractor install a handrail the full
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length of the stairs to suit new installations standards and make safety improvements at the guardrail at
the bottom of the stairs.
Have a qualified contractor remove the cellulose debris in the crawlspace, provide adequate clearance
between the bottom of the plywood panels attached to the rear wall of the crawlspace and the soil, and
install ¼" corrosion resistant screen at the vent opening where piping passed through at the front of the
right middle side of the building.
Have a qualified contractor correct the marginal to below grade condition where necessary.
Have a qualified engineer determine the appropriate seismic upgrades for a building of this age and
design and have a qualified contractor carry them out.
Have a qualified contractor inspect the irrigation system for leakage and positively attach the cables to
the building frame.
If modifications/repairs to the irrigation system do not prevent water intrusion at the right crawlspace,
have a qualified contractor install a vapor barrier.
Have a qualified contractor properly seal the square opening at the lower portion of the left wall of the
left basement.
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MAIN BUILDING – SURFACE DRAINAGE
Effective surface water drainage is crucial to maintain proper foundation support and to help reduce
water intrusion into the sub area. The area around the building should be inspected during a rain fall
for water pooling near and drainage toward the foundation and corrections made as necessary.
Normally, the level at the foundation should be 6" higher than the level 6' away to direct water runoff
away from the foundation. Inground drains should be periodically cleaned.
The bottom of the downspout at the middle of the right side of the building drain and the bottom of
the downspout at the left side of the front of the building discharged into Orangeburg pipes.
Orangeburg piping consists of cellulose impregnated with asphalt and has been known to deteriorate.
The Orangeburg inground drain at the middle of the right side of the building was water tested at the
time of the inspection. Water came out of the ground at the front left side of the driveway, it appeared
that inground drain terminated at that location. Water came out of the ground opposite the front right
corner of the building next the driveway. The condition implies that the drain leaks. Have the condition
corrected.
The downspout at the rear right corner of the building discharged next to the foundation. This can
cause local ground saturation which can lead to water intrusion into the sub area and foundation
movement. Have improvements made. Generally, a temporary method is to install a rain drain pipe (a
flexible plastic pipe that is attached to the base of the downspout) and a permanent method is to install
an inground drain to direct water away from the foundation.
The bottom of rest of the downspouts were connected to flexible plastic inground drains. Flexible
drains should not be cleaned with mechanical bladed equipment as damage can result.
There was the daylight end of an inground drain at the street curb. The inground drain needed to be
cleaned.
As it was not raining at the time of our inspection, we have no knowledge of any water runoff from the
neighboring properties.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified drainage contractor make corrections to the leaking inground
drain, make improvements made to direct water away from the building, and clean the inground drain
at the street curb.
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GARAGE - PESTS
Rodent dropping was noted in the attic space. Several rodent bait boxes were present.
Some rodent activity is not unusual in buildings that are located on properties where trees and dense
vegetation are present. For a positive finding on the presence of rodents, contact a qualified
exterminator company. This is beyond the scope of our inspection.
Have the rodent dropping and associated debris in the attic space removed.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor inspect the building, carry out extermination as
necessary, remove the rodent dropping and associated debris in the attic space, and make
improvements to help prevent rodent entry.
.
Page 50 of 83
GARAGE - ROOF
The roof covering was inspected from the ground/edge of the roof due to the roof steepness.
The roof covering consisted of composition shingles that were installed on the wood shingles. The wood
shingles were nailed to roofing boards spaced at intervals (skip sheathing) and served as a platform for
the composition shingles.
The covering showed moderate to deep wear.
We were unable to determine the exact number of layers of covering present. When a composition
shingle roof covering is installed over existing layers of roof covering, some of the fasteners may not
penetrate the sheathing. This can make the shingles more vulnerable to looseness and wind blow off.
Some of the shingles at the rear roof slope were missing.
Several ridge shingles were deteriorated.
Have a qualified roofing contractor inspect to determine whether it would be cost effective to make
corrections or whether a new roof covering should be installed.
FLASHING Flashings are installed at all intersections formed by vertical surfaces (such as pipes,
chimneys), they could only be partially seen. Periodic flashing maintenance should be done.
The composition roof covering was flashed with roofing mastic at the vent connectors and at the area
where the covering met the building wall. Cracks/small gaps were noted in the mastic flashings.
SKYLIGHT We partially opened and then closed the openable skylight using the wand.
BRANCHES Have the tree branches overhanging the roof removed.
ROOF DRAINAGE The gutters were metal. Metal gutters are susceptible to rusting. Having the
connections sealed and the gutter troughs painted with a rust inhibitive paint will help to improve
serviceability.
It appeared that the gutter at the front edge of the roof had a backslope.
Have the gutters and downspouts cleaned and the gutters adjusted as necessary to provide a
gravitational water flow to the downspouts.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified roofing contractor inspect to determine whether it would be
cost effective to make corrections or whether a new roof covering should be installed.
Have a qualified contractor remove the tree branches overhanging the roof.
Have a qualified contractor clean the gutters and downspouts and make corrections where necessary.
Page 51 of 83
GARAGE - EXTERIOR
DRIVEWAY The driveway was uneven and a potential trip hazard. Have corrections made where
necessary to provide a safe walking surface.
The short section of the driveway between the street and the sidewalk was elevated to allow water to
flow below. The edges of the elevated section had a drop off, have the edges highlighted to make them
more noticeable.
VEGETATION Most of the exterior walls and the part of the roof were covered in ivy. No opinions can
be provided regarding any conditions that may be present but were not observable at the time of our
inspection. Ivy can encourage rodent activity. Ivy can cause mechanical damage to the exterior siding
and/or contribute to retention of moisture at the exterior that can cause fungus damage and decay.
Have the ivy removed. Ivy tendrils left may be difficult to remove.
SIDING The building had stucco siding and wood siding.
The stucco passed over the foundation below the finished grade. This was an accepted practice at the
time the original stucco siding was installed, but it is no longer approved as any hidden cracks may allow
wood destroying insects or water access to the wood framing. As a precaution, a periodic structural
pest control inspection is suggested.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor make corrections to the driveway where necessary
to provide a safe walking surface.
Have a qualified contractor remove the ivy at the exterior walls and roof.
Page 52 of 83
PARKING
VEHICLE ACCESS DOORS Two vehicular access doors were present.
Door openers were equipped with electronic sensors to prevent the doors from working if there is an
object in their path. The doors will automatically reverse when meeting reasonable resistance during
closing. The operation of the reverse mechanism at the garage door openers should be inspected
periodically. The standard test is to place a 2" wood block in the path of the door as it is closing
The push buttons for the vehicular access door openers were attached to the post in between the
openings. The location is a potential hazard. Have the push buttons reinstalled at a safer location.
Wood decay was noted at the bottom of the right jamb of the right vehicular access door opening.
Have the condition corrected.
There was no access into the garage other than via the vehicular access doors. When two people are
present, inspect the operation of the keyed emergency release cord installed at the exterior of the left
door. The keyed emergency release cord should allow the door to be manually opened from the
exterior of the garage. This will be advantageous should the electrical supply to the building be off and
access to the interior of the garage is required.
GARAGE SLAB A few typical cracks were noted in the slab. It is not possible to determine if a crack will
grow in size or if new ones will form. Monitor the cracks and have repair made when the unevenness at
the cracked sections becomes a hazard to foot traffic. Plan to have the cracks sealed.
FIRE RETARDANCY The presence of flammable liquids in garages creates a potential fire hazard. In new
construction, any area adjacent the building interior or near/next to a property line has to be made fire
retardant. This is achieved with the installation of type X fire rated plasterboard.
For fire retardancy have the ceiling, have the left and the right wall covered with type X fire rated
plasterboard and have the plasterboard joints fire taped.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor reinstall the push buttons for the vehicular access
door openers at a safer location.
Have a qualified contractor make corrections to the bottom of the right jamb of the right vehicular
access door opening.
Have a qualified contractor cover the ceiling and the left and the right walls with type X fire rated
plasterboard, and fire tape the plasterboard joints.
Page 53 of 83
GARAGE - ATTIC
The cover at the attic access opening was not positively secured to the ceiling. This is a potential
hazard. We laid the cover on top of the ceiling joists. Have a properly framed attic access opening
installed and have the cover modified as necessary to fit the new opening.
To prevent damage to the ceilings, inspection of the attic space was restricted to what could be seen
from the attic access opening using a flashlight. If inspection of the balance of the attic space is
required, this will be done at an additional cost upon receiving a signed waiver releasing us from liability
for any damage which may be caused to the ceilings due to the inspection.
The bathroom fan vented to the attic space. The fan was an older model and improperly wired. Have a
new fan installed that exhausts at the exterior of the building at a vent cap equipped with a backdraft
damper.
VENTILATION Ventilation was provided by three clay pipes at the right gable. Ventilation was minimal.
Whenever a new roof is installed have the attic adequately ventilate.
It appeared that rodents entered the attic space through the clay pipes. Through the pipes, we could
see the vegetation attached to the exterior of the building. To help prevent rodent and bird entry, have
¼" corrosion resistant screen installed at the pipe openings.
INSULATION The attic was not insulated. For energy conservation, plan to have the attic space
insulated. New installations now require 10" to 11" for an R30 value.
Walls: Few homes built before 1970 have insulated walls. Since January 1985, when Title 24 Energy
Regulations were adopted, the building code requires that exterior walls be insulated.
Floor: The under floor area of the building was not insulated.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor install a properly framed attic access opening and
modify the cover as necessary to fit the new opening.
Have a qualified contractor install ¼" corrosion resistant screen at the attic vent pipe openings.
Have a qualified contractor install a new bathroom fan.
Page 54 of 83
GARAGE - APARTMENT
LEAD Some of the paint at a building of this age may contain lead.
WALLS/CEILINGS To help prevent insect entry, have any gaps in the walls (e.g. where the plumbing
passed through the walls below the sinks) sealed.
FLOORS The condition of the floor finish under the coverings cannot be determined.
DOORS/WINDOWS For energy conservation, have the perimeter of the entrance door weather-stripped.
The windows were steel framed with single pane glass.
As the windows may be needed for emergency egress or rescue, they should be opened periodically to
make sure they are operational.
STAIRS For fire retardancy have the walls and ceiling in the storage space below stairs are covered with
type X fire rated plasterboard, and the plasterboard joints fire taped.
The headroom at the stairs was low. The stairs were steep, they were built to minimal standards at the
time with 9" depth treads and 8" risers. The stairs should be used with caution.
To help prevent clothing from getting caught in the stairs handrail, have the ends of the handrail
terminated to the wall.
The guardrail was 31½" high which is lower than what is now considered a safe height to prevent a
person from falling over it. The guardrail was probably built in accordance with the standard in effect at
the time of installation. While there may be no requirement to change an existing condition, for safety
have modifications made to the guardrail improved to suit the modern standard. In new installations,
guardrails have to be a minimum of 42" high with no opening more than 4" wide.
SMOKE ALARMS/EMERGENCY ITEMS There were no smoke alarms. Have a photoelectric smoke alarm
installed in the apartment and the garage.
Store a fire escape roll down ladder to allow for escape to the exterior in an emergency.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor terminate the stair handrail to the wall and make
safety modifications to the guardrail.
Have a photoelectric smoke alarm installed in the apartment and the garage.
Store a fire escape roll down ladder.
Page 55 of 83
GARAGE - BATHROOM
The bathroom consisted of a sink and a toilet.
We could not see an etched mark at the glass plate at the table in the bathroom. The glass plate at the
table was not safety glass. The wiring at the table was sub-standard and a potential hazard. Have the
table and wiring removed.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have the table and wiring removed.
Page 56 of 83
GARAGE - ELECTRICAL
In new installations, an exterior electrical supply disconnect switch and grounding electrode system are
required for a detached building. As an electrical safety improvement, have them installed at the
garage.
WIRING The visible wiring methods used were armor (BX) cable, non metallic sheathed cable, conduit,
and knob and tube wiring.
As a precaution, when electrical work is carried out, have the contractor remove the covers at the light
fixture boxes and inspect the wiring in the boxes. Wherever knob and tube wiring is exposed during
remodeling work, have it replaced with new wiring.
The electrical supply to the vehicular access door openers was provided by extension cords. The three
pronged plugs at the extension cords were plugged into a three hole to two prong adapter. The
adapter was plugged into a two hole ylight socket adapter. A door opener must be grounded. In the
event of a malfunction or breakdown, grounding will reduce the risk of electrical shock by providing a
path of least resistance for electric current.
Using a volt stick, we noted an electric current at the metal parts of the door openers. This is a
potential hazard. Have grounded three hole outlets installed near the door openers and the cord at
each opener plugged into them.
The non metallic sheathed cables under the stairs and the cable in the small attic space of the
apartment were exposed. Unprotected cables are susceptible to damage. Have all non metallic
sheathed cables below 7' suitably protected or replaced with armor(Bx) cable.
The wiring in the attic space was sub-standard and a potential hazard.
The bathroom fan was equipped with an appliance cord that was plugged into a switched loose broken
outlet in the attic space. The non metallic sheathed cables were not properly attached to the outlet
box. The light fixture at the front of the bathroom was wired with a low gauge cord that was plugged
into the loose broken outlet. It appeared that the bathroom fixtures were not attached to fixture
boxes. The wiring was substandard and a potential hazard. Have the light fixtures and a new fan
properly installed.
OUTLETS The three hole outlet at the rear of the room was ungrounded. Either the grounding wire was
not connected or no grounding wire was provided. Have the outlet grounded.
Have a cover plate installed at the open outlet box in the small attic space.
GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTERS As a safety upgrade, have a GFCI outlet installed in the
bathroom and garage.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified electrical contractor make corrections/improvements to the
electrical system.
Page 57 of 83
GARAGE - PLUMBING
WATER SUPPLY PIPING The visible piping in the building was galvanized iron. Wherever galvanized
piping is exposed, e.g. during remodeling work, have it replaced with copper piping.
We ran the faucets at the bathroom sink for several minutes. No hot water was produced.
Plan to have an small electric water heater installed. This will require the installation of a dedicated
electrical circuit and the installation of new electrical service to the garage.
Angle stops (shut off valves) are usually found beneath plumbing fixtures. They allow the water supply
to the fixture to be turned off for repair or to stop a leak. They are often not operated and may freeze
in place or leak when operated.
Corrosion was noted at the toilet angle stop. The condition implies past leakage. Have the new angle
stop installed.
The water supply connector to the toilet was plastic. Most plastic connectors are not approved as they
have been known to burst. As a precaution, have it replaced with a no burst braided stainless steel
reinforced connector.
Valve stem leakage was noted at the left faucet. Have the condition corrected.
WASTE AND VENT PIPING The visible drain, waste, and vent system was cast iron, galvanized iron, and
plastic (ABS).
The P trap at the bathroom sink drain showed wear. As a precaution against leakage, have a new P trap
installed.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified plumbing contractor make corrections/improvements to the
plumbing system.
Page 58 of 83
GARAGE - HEATING
No permanent heat source was present in the apartment. Most jurisdictions require that all habitable
rooms (not bathrooms) be provided with a permanent heat source capable of maintaining a
temperature of 70 Fahrenheit 3' above the floor.
Have an permanent electric baseboard heater installed.
This will require the installation of a dedicated electrical circuit and the installation of new electrical
service to the garage.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified electrical contractor install a permanent heat source.
Page 59 of 83
GARAGE - STRUCTURE
The visible and accessible portions of the foundation and of the main structural members were
inspected. The underground support system is unknown (the existence of piers, width of footings,
specific load bearing quality of subsoil, etc). We do not probe the soil adjacent to foundations to
determine their depth. Our opinions are based on a visual inspection.
FOUNDATION The building had a perimeter concrete foundation.
Older foundations generally have no steel reinforcement and are not set as deeply into the ground as is
required with new foundations. This can make them more vulnerable to movement that can lead to
cracking. There appeared to be no significant foundation wall cracks or separations.
EARTHQUAKE PREPAREDNESS The building was wood frame construction. The visible sill plate was not
bolted to the foundation.
There is seismic concern regarding soft stories. A "Soft story" is the general term for a lower building
wall that has a wide opening such as the opening for the garage doors. A building with a soft story can
be more susceptible to earthquake damage. A common reinforcing method is to install a steel
"moment frame" around any large opening at first floor level.
Have a qualified contractor install the appropriate seismic upgrades for a building of this age and
design.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor install the appropriate seismic upgrades for a
building of this age and design.
Page 60 of 83
GARAGE - SURFACE DRAINAGE
The front left downspout discharged onto the concrete flatwork, have the flatwork kept well
maintained and the cracks sealed.
The rear downspout discharged next to the foundation, this can cause local ground saturation which
can lead to foundation movement. Have improvements made. Generally, a temporary method is to
install a rain drain pipe (a flexible plastic pipe that is attached to the base of the downspout) and a
permanent method is to install an inground drain to direct water away from the foundation.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have improvements made to direct water away from the building.
Page 61 of 83
COTTAGE
The cottage was furnished. The hairs in the floor furnace housing imply that a pet had lived here.
The determination of what is an acceptable sound level from the freeway and BART (Bay Area Rapid
Transit) is beyond the scope of our inspection.
Page 62 of 83
COTTAGE - PESTS
Rodent dropping was noted at the top of the lower bedroom ceiling (as seen in the gaps in the sub-floor
board at the small front attic space in the upper bedroom) and in the crawlspace.
For a positive finding on the presence of rodents, contact a qualified exterminator company. This is
beyond the scope of our inspection.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor inspect the cottage, carry out extermination as
necessary, and make improvements to help prevent rodent entry.
Page 63 of 83
COTTAGE - ROOF
The roof covering was inspected from the ground due to the roof steepness.
We could not see the rear roof slope. Dead branches were hanging off the rear edge of the roof.
Most of the porch roof was covered in vines. No opinions can be provided regarding any conditions
that may be present but were not observable at the time of our inspection. Have the vines removed.
Have a qualified roofing contractor inspect the roof covering and make corrections/improvements
where necessary.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor remove the vines.
Have a qualified roofing contractor inspect the roof covering and make corrections/improvements
where necessary.
Page 64 of 83
COTTAGE - EXTERIOR
WALKWAY The grass between the flagstone walkway should be trimmed periodically to provide a safe
walking surface.
WOOD STAIRS As the wood stairs opposite the right side of the building and built on grade it should be
kept well-maintained.
The wood stairs showed some wood decay. Some newer step boards had been installed. Have
corrections made.
For safety, have a grippable handrail installed at the stairs.
LANDSCAPE There was a lot of vegetation opposite the left, the rear, and the right side of the building.
For fire safety, have it cleared.
For fire safety, have adequate clearance provided between the top of the chimney and the tree
branches.
CORE, a program of the Oakland Fire Department office of emergency services, offers vegetation
management tips for fire safe landscapes. For more information, see
www.oaklandnet.com/fire/core/vegetation.html.
For information on creating a defensible space around the building go to
www.oaklandnet.com/wildfireprevention/Homeowners.asp.
SIDING The building had stucco and wood siding.
The stucco passed over the foundation below the finished grade. This was an accepted practice at the
time the original stucco siding was installed, but it is no longer approved as any hidden cracks may allow
wood destroying insects or water access to the wood framing. As a precaution, a periodic structural
pest control inspection is suggested.
The siding appeared serviceable.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor make corrections to the wood stairs and install a
grippable handrail.
Have a qualified contractor clear the lot of vegetation and remove the vine.
Have adequate clearance provided between the top of the chimney and the tree branches.
Page 65 of 83
COTTAGE - ATTIC
The attic was not provided with an access. In new installations, any attic space with a minimum vertical
height of 30" should be provided with an access opening.
There was no attic ventilation. Whenever new roof is installed, have ventilation provided.
Page 66 of 83
COTTAGE - INTERIOR ROOMS
We do not comment on the cosmetic condition of the interior (paint, window coverings, wall covering,
floor covering, etc.) The buyer(s) should inspect it.
Some of the interior surfaces were not visible due to the furniture, area rugs, and personal belongings.
They should be inspected during the final "walk through". In general, the interior rooms appeared
serviceable except as noted.
The condition of the walls and floors which are hidden by personal property or fixtures is unknown.
When furniture, wall hangings, area floor coverings, and personal properties are removed, the
previously covered areas might have a different pattern of wear and/or different shades or color than
the rest of the exposed floor and wall surfaces. Walls, flooring, and other floor coverings that are not
subject to normal wear and tear or exposed to the sun and other forms of light may not match the
remaining exposed areas of the same surface.
LEAD Some of the paint at a building of this age may contain lead.
FLOORS The condition of the floor finish under the coverings cannot be determined.
DOORS/WINDOWS The windows were steel framed with single pane glass.
As the windows may be needed for emergency egress or rescue, they should be opened periodically to
make sure they are operational.
In new installations, all escape or rescue windows from any room that is used for sleeping has to have a
minimum net clear openable height of 24" and a minimum net clear width opening of 20". The net
clear openable width of the casement windows (vents) in the bedrooms was 16½".
The window stools at the left window in the living room and at the left window in the dining room were
low above the floor. For safety, have a guardrail installed in front of each window.
Some of the glass window panes were cracked. Have new glass panes installed where necessary.
STAIRS The stairs was a winder type. At the turns, the inner treads were narrower than the outer ones.
The stairs were steep, they were built to minimal standards at the time with 9" depth treads and 8"
risers. The stairs should be used with caution.
The headroom at the stairs was low (67" above the stairs nosing). Have the low area highlighted and
protected as necessary to help prevent injury to persons using the stairs.
The handrail at the stairs was low (29" above the stair nosing). In new installations, a handrail has to be
set at a minimum of 34" and a maximum of 38" above and parallel to the stair nosing and it has to run
the full length of the stairs. As a safety improvement, have a new handrail that runs the full length of
the stairs installed a minimum of 34" above the stair nosing and have the ends of the handrail
terminated to the wall to help prevent clothing from being caught in the ends of the handrail.
Page 67 of 83
The guardrail was 35" high which is lower than what is now considered a safe height to prevent a
person from falling over it. The guardrail was probably built in accordance with the standard in effect at
the time of installation. While there may be no requirement to change an existing condition, you may
wish to have the safety at the guardrail improved to suit the modern standard. In new installations,
guardrails have to be a minimum of 42" high with no opening more that 4" wide.
SMOKE ALARMS/EMERGENCY ITEMS Smoke alarms should be tested periodically by pressing the test
button.
Smoke alarms were present. Nearly all of the smoke alarms installed in homes are ionization types. For
improved protection have photoelectric smoke alarms installed in the cottage and subarea.
As a safety precaution, have a carbon monoxide detector installed on each floor level.
For fire safety, consider installing multipurpose fire extinguishers. For suggestions on fire extinguishers,
consult your local fire department.
Store a fire escape roll down ladder to allow for escape to the exterior of the property from any levels
above the ground floor in an emergency.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor install a guardrail in front of the left window in the
living room and the left window in the dining room and install a new handrail the full length of the stairs
at a minimum of 34" above the stair nosing with the ends of the new handrail terminated to the wall.
Have photoelectric smoke alarms installed.
Have a carbon monoxide detector installed on each floor level.
Store a fire escape roll down ladder.
Page 68 of 83
COTTAGE - KITCHEN
The gas range cooktop burners were turned on and off. We do not operate timers or calibrate oven
thermostats.
The oven did not work. Have it made operable. Most gas utility companies offer free inspections of
appliances, they do not make any repairs but sometimes make minor adjustments. Appliances they
determine to be defective are often disconnected. Have PG&E inspect the gas range.
The handle at the oven door was loose, have it positively secured.
There was no anti tip bracket to help prevent the range from tipping forward when something heavy is
placed on the open oven door. For safety, have an anti tip bracket installed.
The cabinets and countertop appeared serviceable.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have PG&E inspect the gas range.
Have a qualified contractor make positively secure oven door handle and install an anti tip bracket at
the range.
Page 69 of 83
COTTAGE - BATHROOM
Some small cracks were noted in the floor tiles. Monitor and have sealed when necessary.
The dimension from the side wall to the center of the toilet was 14". This is under the standard in new
construction which requires toilets to be set not less than 15" from any side wall.
There was a partial clearance in front of the toilet of 12" which is under the standard set for new
construction which requires toilets to have a clear space of not less than 24" in front of them. This is to
provide comfortable use of the toilet.
Touch up grouting was needed at the tub wall tile.
The bathroom window was aluminum framed with single pane glass. The window was above the tub.
The glass was not safety glass. For safety, have the glass replaced with tempered safety glass.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have touch up grouting performed.
Have a qualified glazing contractor replace the glass with tempered safety glass.
Page 70 of 83
COTTAGE - FIREPLACE
We did not light a fire in the firebox. Certainty as to the draft efficiency of the fireplace can only be
determined after a thorough review by a qualified contractor.
The fireplace was a masonry wood burning unit.
Some gaps were noted between the brick joints. This condition can cause the bricks to become loose
and may allow smoke, heat, or fire to escape the firebox and enter areas not designed for high
temperatures.
Fireboxes should be kept well sealed at all times, even minor cracks need to be sealed. Silicate cement
is often used to seal minor cracks in fireboxes, it comes in cartridge tubes available at most hardware
stores.
CHIMNEY As the roof was not accessed, we did not access the top of the chimney.
As seen from the firebox, there was a heavy build up of soot/creosote in the chimney flue. Have the
flue cleaned.
Most chimneys are lined with clay tiles. The purpose of a liner is to contain any potential chimney fire.
Liners and the mortar which join them together may deteriorate with age and use, reducing their
effectiveness. When a flue is inaccessible, we cannot determine if a flue liner is defective or if no flue
liner is present.
A chimney cap/spark arrester was present.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor clean the chimney flue, and make
corrections/improvements as necessary.
Page 71 of 83
COTTAGE - ELECTRICAL
SUBPANELS • A socket fuse design subpanel was located at the bottom of the wall above the bottom of
the bedroom stairs. The location is a potential hazard.
The energized terminals at the interior of the subpanel could be easily accessed. This is a potential
hazard.
There was a crack in the top portion of the subpanel.
One 25 amp socket fuse, six 20 amp socket fuses, three 15 amp socket fuses, and one 12 amp socket
fuse.
The capacity of a fuse should be matched up with the current carrying capacity of a branch circuit.
Some of the circuits where overfused.
• A circuit breaker design subpanel was located in the crawlspace.
The subpanel location was difficult to access.
A 50 amp double pole breaker and a 40 amp double pole breaker were present.
We do not determine which outlets, switches, and fixtures are connected to each circuit breaker.
Some of the screws at the deadfront cover were missing.
We could not determine the function of the capped cables within the subpanel. There was a grounding
electrode attached to the grounding buss bar within the subpanel, the grounding electrode was
attached to a water pipe serving the water heater. The grounding is substandard.
There was an open knock-out hole at the bottom of the subpanel.
NEW SERVICE In new installations, an exterior electrical supply disconnect switch and grounding
electrode system is required for a detached building. As an electrical safety improvement, have an
exterior main panel and a grounding electrode system installed.
The circuits at the subpanels could then be protected by circuit breakers at the new main panel.
WIRING The visible wiring methods used were armor (BX) cable, non metallic sheathed cable, conduit,
and knob and tube wiring.
As a precaution, when electrical work is carried out, have the contractor remove the covers at the light
fixture boxes and inspect the wiring in the boxes. Wherever knob and tube wiring is exposed during
remodeling work, have it replaced with new wiring.
Have the exposed wiring at the upper rear right corner of the building properly terminated in an
exterior weatherproof junction box.
Page 72 of 83
JUNCTION BOXES Some of the junction boxes in the sub-area were missing cover plates. For fire safety,
have cover plates installed.
The armor (BX) cable from the junction box above the fluorescent light fixture was not connected to the
wiring at the junction box above the left side of the unfinished basement. The rear left outlet in the
basement was not energized. Have the conditions corrected.
As an improvement, have a switched light fixture installed in the basement.
SWITCHES AND OUTLETS Due to the presence of furnishings and storage, some of the outlets were not
accessible therefore no opinions can be provided regarding any conditions that may be present but
were not noticeable at the time of our inspection. When the building is vacant, have all the outlets
inspected and corrections made where necessary.
Some of the light switches felt worn. Have all worn light switches replaced with new light switches.
The left wall sconce in the lower bedroom was loose, have it positively secured.
The light bulb above the doorway above the bedroom stairs is a potential hazard. Have the light fixture
replaced with a low profile light fixture equipped with a protective metal cage, such as a bulkhead light
fixture.
The wall light fixture at the bathroom did not work at the time of our inspection. A new light bulb
should be installed as soon as possible to make sure the fixture is operational and corrections made if
not.
For fire safety, replace all light bulbs in closets and small spaces with screw in fluorescent bulbs (CFLs).
Light bulbs that are near combustible material pose a fire hazard. For fire safety, in new installations,
only exposed fluorescent light fixtures that are at least 6" from the nearest shelf, enclosed incandescent
light fixtures that are at least 12" from the nearest shelf, or recessed incandescent light fixtures are
allowed in closets.
There was an incandescent light bulb at the light fixture in the rear bedroom closet. The light bulb was
close to combustible material. Have the fixture removed and a new enclosed fluorescent light fixture
installed at a safer location.
We do not check to see if a building has sufficient outlets to suit individual electrical needs. Older
buildings often have an insufficient number of circuits and outlets when compared to modern
standards. In some older buildings, a room may have only one outlet. In some cases, this can
encourage the use of extension cords which can create a hazardous condition.
The outlets were two hole and three hole. While the majority of household appliances are double
insulated and have two pronged plugs, kitchen appliances (e.g. microwaves, refrigerators, and
computers) have three pronged plugs that require three hole grounded outlets. Use only double
insulated appliances at the two hole outlets. The slots at older two hole outlets can become worn over
time. Replacement should be anticipated.
Page 73 of 83
The two pronged plug serving the gas range was plugged into a three hole to two pronged adapter that
was plugged into a two hole plug at a low gauge extension cord that was plugged into a two hole wall
outlet. A gas range must be grounded. In the event of a malfunction or breakdown, grounding will
reduce the risk of electrical shock by providing a path of least resistance for electric current. The
appliance cord was equipped with a three pronged plug. As a safety improvement, have the outlet
replaced with a properly installed grounded three hole outlet.
The refrigerator appliance cord was plugged into a three hole to two pronged adapter that was plugged
into a two hole multi outlet adapter. A multiplex outlet adapter can encourage overloading of the
outlets, have it removed.
A refrigerator must be grounded. Have a grounded three hole outlet installed at the refrigerator site
and the refrigerator appliance cord plugged into it.
The three hole outlet at the left side of the front wall of the bedroom showed open ground (either the
grounding wire was not connected or no grounding wire was provided). Have the outlet properly
installed or replaced with a two hole outlet.
The two hole outlet at the left side of the rear wall of the bedroom was damaged. Have a new one
installed.
Have a cover plate installed at the three hole outlet at the left side of the basement.
GROUND FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTERS A GFCI outlet was present at the bathroom.
As a safety upgrade, have the outlets in locations that in new construction are required to be GFCI
protected replaced with GFCI outlets. Note that older outlet boxes sometimes are not big enough to
receive modern GFCI outlets therefore new outlet box(es) or outlet box extensions may have to be
installed.
ARC FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTERS (AFCI) In new installations, outlets serving all rooms (except
kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms and garages have to be AFCI (arc fault circuit interrupter)
protected. An AFCI helps to prevent electrical fires by recognizing electrical arcing on a circuit. An arc
fault is an unintended arc created by current flowing through an unplanned path. Arcing creates high
intensity heat at the point of the arc resulting in burning particles that may easily ignite combustible
material.
As an electrical safety improvement, consider having the circuit(s) serving the outlets in the bedrooms
AFCI protected.
WALL HEATERS Old-fashioned electric wall heaters were present. The front of the heaters will get hot
and the grills are too wide to prevent fingers or objects from coming in contact with the heating
element.
Due to the presence of the gas range, we did not access the electric wall heater at the wall.
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The control knob at the wall heater in the living room kept turning therefore the unit was not operated.
Using a voltage stick, no matter which way we turned the control knob at the heater in the living room,
a current was present.
Although an electrical supply was provided to the wall heater at the dining room and at the one in the
living room, the units did not operate.
The electric wall heater in the lower bedroom was functioning at the time of our inspection. Even
though when the control knob at the wall heater was in the off position, using a volt stick, we still noted
an electric current at the unit.
For safety, have the wall heaters removed and, if needed, have a new modern wall heaters installed.
Alternatively, have the wires capped and the openings in the walls properly covered.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified electrical contractor install a an exterior main panel and a
grounding electrode system, make corrections/improvements to the electrical system, remove the wall
heaters, install new modern wall heaters if needed or cap the wires and properly cover the openings in
the walls.
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COTTAGE - PLUMBING
GAS PIPING As a precaution, have a gas shut off valve located at the exterior of the cottage.
The main gas pipe serving the gas range was ½" in diameter. For maximum efficiency, a gas range
should be served by a pipe with a minimum diameter of ¾". As an improvement, plan to have a ¾"
diameter pipe installed to serve the range.
The gas piping serving the water heater showed surface corrosion. As an improvement, have it wire
brushed and painted with a rust inhibitive paint.
WATER SUPPLY PIPING The underground main supply piping was not accessible, we could not
determine the material or pipe diameter.
Have a main water shut off valve installed at the exterior of the building.
The visible piping in the building was galvanized iron. Galvanized iron piping is common in older
buildings. It is prone to rusting and to the build up of minerals which will restrict the water flow. Water
hardness and pipe quality are the main factors that affect the useful life of the piping. Eventual
replacement of the galvanized iron piping should be anticipated. Wherever galvanized piping is
exposed, e.g. during remodeling work, have it replaced with copper piping.
Due to the presence of galvanized piping, the aerators at the sink spouts will need to be periodically
cleaned of corrosion deposits.
The water flow at the various faucets was found adequate. There was no excessive reduction when
more than one faucet was operated. Depending on the distance between each fixture and the water
heater, the delivery time of hot water to a faucet will vary.
Corrosion was noted at several the pipe connections. Replacement with copper piping should be
planned. The connections should be inspected periodically for leakage and the piping replaced when
necessary.
Angle stops (shut off valves) are usually found beneath plumbing fixtures. They allow the water supply
to the fixture to be turned off for repair or to stop a leak. They are often not operated and may freeze
in place or leak when operated. They were not operated in our inspection.
When the shower was operated, leakage was noted at the shower arm connections. Have the condition
corrected.
Drip leakage was noted at the connection of the lever for the pop-up plug at the bathroom sink drain.
Have the condition corrected.
We could not determine the function of the exterior galvanized water piping opposite the right side and
rear of the building. It may be used for irrigation. The piping needed to be properly supported or
reinstalled to help prevent damage from persons standing on the piping.
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WASTE AND VENT PIPING The visible drain, waste, and vent system was cast iron and galvanized iron.
Over time, older cast iron drains will corrode, crack, and leak. This is especially the case with drains
serving kitchen sinks. Rust spots were noted on the drain piping. The drain piping should be
periodically and replaced when necessary.
A short section of drain piping serving the kitchen sink had been replaced with a plastic (ABS) pipe. The
connection needed to be properly supported.
The stains on the sub-floor below the bathroom imply past leakage. No signs of active leakage were
noted at the time of our inspection. Check the area periodically for the need of repair.
Have the abandoned section of cast iron pipe equipped with a P-trap at the rear right corner of the
basement ceiling removed at the T fitting and the opening in the T fitting capped. The present piping
will allow standing water water which could turn into sludge resulting blockage of the drain piping
nearby.
The bathtub was designed with no overflow. If water is left running and the stopper is in place, water
will overflow the tub.
CROSS CONNECTION A cross connection is a plumbing configuration that would allow contaminated
water to enter the potable water supply.
At the bathroom, the spout for the faucet was below the flood rim level (top) of the tub. If the tub is
filled up to this height, contamination of the potable water could happen.
The fill valve was below water level in the toilet tank. The condition may allow the tank water to siphon
back in the water supply. Have modifications made.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified plumbing contractor make corrections/improvements to the
plumbing system.
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COTTAGE - HEATING
Heating was supplied by a gas fired floor furnace. Floor furnaces circulate heated air by natural
convection, rooms with closed doors will not get heated and the rooms furthest away will get very little
heat. Floor furnaces can accumulate combustible dust and require frequent cleaning. There was dust,
hair, and debris in the furnace housing.
Floor furnaces are a potential hazard. They have hot surfaces. Clothing or paper left on or near the
floor furnace can ignite easily, creating a potential fire hazard.
The thermostat was not housed in the same room as the furnace. The thermostat was located in the
lower bedroom. Closing the door can lead to the furnace continuously running.
The dark stains on the underside and side of the furnace housing imply flame roll out. As result of a fire
there was deep charring on the framing and sub-floor adjacent the furnace. The furnace should not
used. The gas supply should be removed.
VENTING A draft diverter is designed to provide for the escape of the combustion product (which can
contain hot poisonous gases) in the event of no draft, back draft or blockage in the flue pipe; to prevent
a back draft from entering the appliance; and to neutralize the effect of stack action of the flue. The
draft diverter at the floor furnace was corroded through.
Spillage of the combustion product which contains poisonous gases occurs when normal venting is
obstructed by improper configuration, improper vent piping materials, vent blockage or insufficient
combustion venting.
The furnace vent connector and the water heater vent connector were connected to a Paten flue. A
Paten flue has an inner clay flue liner and a sheetmetal outer liner. A Paten flue heats up slowly and the
low temperature may restrict the upward flow of flue gases. For this reason, most manufacturers
specify modern galvanized sheetmetal vents which terminate above the roof line.
The size of the Paten flue may not be large enough to handle the combustion product when both the
water heater and furnace are in operation. This can result in a spillage of the combustion product. This
is a hazardous condition.
NEW HEATING The floor furnace is hazardous, have it removed and new safer heating system installed.
RECOMMENDATION(S) The furnace should not be used. Have a qualified plumbing contractor remove
the gas supply.
Have a qualified heating contractor remove the floor furnace and install a new heating system.
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COTTAGE - WATER HEATER
Hot water was supplied by a gas fired water heater with a 30-gallon capacity. The projected life of a
water heater is from eight to ten years although some units have been known to last over 15 years.
The serial number shows that the water heater was manufactured in 2000. The water heater was
nearing the end of its useful life.
As an improvement, have the water heater set plumb.
For earthquake preparedness, at the point of sale, California law requires water heaters to be secured
in accordance with the local building department's requirements. The water heater was strapped.
COMBUSTION PRODUCT Spillage of the combustion product which contains poisonous gases occurs
when normal venting is obstructed by improper configuration, improper vent piping materials, vent
blockage or insufficient combustion venting.
The surface corrosion on one of the nipples at the top of the water heater implies spillage of the
combustion product (which can contain hot poisonous gases). We held a mirror near the draft diverter
after the water heater had been running for several minutes and noted misting of the mirror. The
condition verifies the spillage of the combustion product. Have the condition corrected.
TEMPERATURE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE (TPR VALVE) If a water heater malfunctions and overheats,
pressure builds up in the tank. Therefore, it is essential to have a TPR valve. Instead of the tank
exploding from a pressure build up, the valve activates, releasing the pressure build up in the form of
scalding water. In new installations, the TPR valve drain terminates at the exterior of the building 6" to
24" from the ground point down so that if the valve is released the condition would be more noticeable
and flooding of the area where the water heater is located could be prevented.
The TPR valve drain terminated at the side of the water heater. As a precaution to help prevent
damage if the valve is released, have the drain pipe extended to terminate at the exterior of the
building 6" to 24" from the ground point down.
We do not check the operation of TPR valves as they can be difficult to reseat.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified heating/plumbing contractor make corrections to the water
heater installation.
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COTTAGE - STRUCTURE
The visible and accessible portions of the foundation and of the main structural members were
inspected. The underground support system is unknown (the existence of piers, width of footings,
specific load bearing quality of subsoil, etc). We do not probe the soil adjacent to foundations to
determine their depth. Our opinions are based on a visual inspection.
SUB AREA The sub area consisted of a crawlspace and an unfinished basement.
Wood had been laid on the sub area soil at the crawlspace to provide a storage platform. The wood will
be susceptible to decay. Have it removed.
The ladder that gave access from the unfinished basement to the crawlspace is a potential hazard.
Have it removed.
VENTILAION To help prevent small animal entry, have ¼" corrosion resistant screen installed at the clay
vent at the upper left side of the sub-area.
FOUNDATION The building had a perimeter concrete foundation with interior post and beam supports
bearing upon insolated concrete piers.
The unfinished basement slab was cracked and uneven.
Older foundations generally have no steel reinforcement and are not set as deeply into the ground as is
required with new foundations. This can make them more vulnerable to movement that can lead to
cracking.
The basement concrete slab was cracked. Cracks up to ¼" wide were noted on the rear foundation.
The cracks imply foundation movement. The exact measurement of the conditions noted are not within
the scope of our inspection. Past or future movement may be related to soils or geological issues which
are beyond the scope of our expertise. Have a qualified engineer inspect the foundation to determine if
it is acceptable or if corrections are needed.
A concrete block retaining wall was present in the front of the basement. A properly constructed
concrete block retaining wall consists of hollow concrete block walls built on a footing and filled with
concrete, the blocks are set so steel reinforcement rebars can pass through.
There was no concrete in the blocks. A crack and misalignment were noted at the wall adjacent the
large concrete block. The block may have been installed to help reinforce the wall and to provide
partial support to the built up 6x6 post. Have a qualified engineer inspect the retaining wall to
determine the appropriate correction and have a qualified contractor carry them out.
FRAMING The building was wood frame construction.
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Some unevenness was noted in the floor at the front bedroom. This condition is common in a building
of this age and design. Considering the building age, the condition appears to have occurred at a
relatively slow rate. If it continues, some repair may eventually be required.
Some wood decay was noted under the bathroom. Have the condition corrected.
EARTHQUAKE PREPAREDNESS A foundation sill plate is the lowest horizontal framing member that sits
on the foundation. For earthquake preparedness, sill plates are secured to the foundation and shear
bracing and load transfer ties are installed. For more information on earthquake preparedness
measures, go to www.abag.ca.gov.
The visible sill plate was not bolted to the foundation.
Have a qualified engineer determine the appropriate seismic upgrades for a building of this age and
design and have a qualified contractor carry them out.
The bottom of the rear wall framing was embedded in the concrete foundation. The condition can
result in decay. The bottom of the wall framing should be properly installed as part of the seismic
retrofit.
WATER INTRUSION The inspection was carried out during dry weather.
Efflorescence (mineral deposits) was noted on some of the foundation. Efflorescence is a white
powdery hydrate that forms on concrete or masonry when moisture is present.
The sub area soil was dry.
As the basement was below grade, during periods of prolonged rainfall, some moisture/water may
enter. It is not unusual to find unexpected moisture/water entry in below grade areas that have been
dry for years.
The exterior measures that can be taken to help control water intrusion into sub areas include making
sure that gutters and downspouts are in good working order, that the downspouts discharge away from
the foundations, keeping all the exterior surfaces sealed, grading the exterior soil to slope away from
the foundation, and making sure that all inground drains are clear.
After the above improvements have been implemented, the sub area should be checked during the
rainy season to see if further improvements are necessary.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have a qualified contractor remove the wood boards on the sub area soil, install
¼" corrosion resistant screen at the clay vent at the upper left side of the sub-area, and remove the
ladder from the unfinished basement to the crawlspace.
Have a qualified contractor make corrections to the bathroom floor.
Have a qualified engineer inspect the foundation to determine if it is acceptable or if corrections are
needed.
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Have a qualified engineer inspect the retaining wall to determine the appropriate correction and have a
qualified contractor carry them out.
Have a qualified engineer determine the appropriate seismic upgrades for a building of this age and
design and have a qualified contractor carry them out.
Have a qualified contractor make corrections to the wood under the bathroom.
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COTTAGE - SURFACE DRAINAGE
The downspout discharged next to the foundation. Downspouts that discharge next to the foundation
can cause local ground saturation which can lead to water intrusion into the sub area and foundation
movement. Have improvements made. Generally, a temporary method is to install a rain drain pipe (a
flexible plastic pipe that is attached to the base of the downspout) and a permanent method is to install
an inground drain to direct water away from the foundation.
No gutter was present at the edge of the rear roof slope. Unchecked roof drainage can cause local
saturation of the ground which can local ground saturation that can lead to water intrusion into the sub
area and foundation movement. Have a gutter and downspout installed.
As it was not raining at the time of our inspection, we have no knowledge of any water runoff from the
neighboring properties. Check the surface drainage during the next rainfall.
RECOMMENDATION(S) Have improvements made to direct water away from the building.
Have a qualified contractor install a gutter and downspout at the edge of the rear roof slope.
****
For a more detailed inspection of any area covered by this general inspection, refer to qualified
specialists (contractors, foundation contractors, etc).
Brogan Home Inspection, Inc. has no interest present or contemplated in the property or its
improvement. Thank you for the opportunity to perform this inspection. Please call us at 510.835.3887
if you have any questions.
Sincerely,
BROGAN HOME INSPECTION, INC. A CALIFORNIA CORPORATION
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