ASK To do list – July 2004

FAQS BLONDME
Facts
Before
New
1
Key Issues
Measures
Colour - too complex
New simple toner system and ready to use Lifting
/ White Blend & Lift Shades
Care - not self explanatory (cool, warm, neutral)
New easy care structure
Styling - offer not blonde specific enough
New blonde relevant styling products
Training - Resources too high
Compact training aligned w. resources
Services - too complex
Focus on 1 service
Colour
Colour
3-component mixing
2-component mixing
Base Cream:
Pre-mixed
Lifting or White Blending or Toning
e.g. Lifting Base Cream & Toner
Care
Care
Shampoo
Conditioner
Treatment
Shampoo
Shampoo Cool
Shampoo Warm
Shampoo
Neutral
+ Backwash
Conditioner
Cool
Conditioner
Warm
Conditioner
Neutral
Keratin Restore
Milk
Intensive K.R.
Milk
Treatment
Sun
Bleached &
Coloured Hair
Cool Shampoo
Warm Shampoo
Highlighted Hair
Shampoo
All Blondes
Shampoo
Backwash
Conditioner
Treatment
Conditioner
Intense
Tretment
Conditioner
Total: 11 products
Total: 9 products
Styling
Styling
Mousse Cool
Shine - Shine Magnifying Spray
Mousse Warm
Volume - Volume Miracle Cream
Mousse Neutral
Hold - Glorious Hold Hairspray
Shine Spray
Total: 4 products
Total: 3 products
Treatment
Re-Light
Treatment
Facts
Product
PH
Mixing Ratio
pH mixing with Developer
Premium Performance
Lightener Powder
Not
measurable
1:1,5
# 10,38
Premium Performance
Lightener Powder
Not
measurable
1:2
#10,35
Premium Performance
Lightener Powder
Not
measurable
1:2,5
#10,21
White Blending
# 11
1:1
#10
Lifting
# 11
1:1
# 10
Toner
# 9,5
1:1
# 8,5
10 ml
Bleach & Tone Additive
#9
+ 35g
Powder
# 10,2
+ 50 ml
Developer
15 ml
Bleach & Tone Additive
#9
+ 35g
Powder
# 10,2
+ 50 ml
Developer
Q: What are the special sales arguments for BLONDME, in order to provide a point-of difference between
IGORA Royal and competitor brands?
A: Because of the low ammonia concentration we can provide a better hair structure, which gives the perfect
sales argument.
Other important arguments providing a point-of difference are the newly developed, unique
colour/toning shades found in BLONDME.
Depending on the demands of the colourist, the BLONDME system supports creative mixing for multi-tonal
shades producing a variety of creative results for the experienced colourist.
For less experienced colourists there are proven recommendations, ensuring perfect, predictable results.
Good brand orientation and support can be gained through the colour chart, which shows end results
A
Bleach & Tone Additive
Q:
“Cool-persistency-pigments covered in a protective molecular shield do not break down when added to bleach.”
What is the “protective molecular shield”?
What is so special about these pigments?
A:
Chemical function which protects the colour dye against reactive oxygen (Bleach Products) a new dyestuff
technology allows you to combine Bleach Products with colour dyes.
These dyes are bleach resistant and allow you to bleach and tone the hair in one application step.
Question
Answer
1
Please explain what it is in the bleach and tone
cream that makes it safe to use with the lightener
and 12%.
It is very simple: The Toner dilutes the Developer
concentration (Oxidative Value). 15g Toner =
aprox. ⅓ of the 50g Developer = aprox. 9%
2
As the Cool-persistency-pigments are direct
dyes, will there be any problems lightening over
top? If a client wants to go lighter, can we lighten
past these direct dyes?
Yes, with Bleach.
3
How long can we expect the cool or neutral
results to last in the hair?
Up to 10 shampoos (also depends on the
porosity of hair).
4
Can the Bleach and Tone cream be mixed with
the Easy Quick and Soft bleach? If not, please
explain why.
We do not recommend this, as the toner reduces
the lifting power slightly, hence we need the max.
Lift of Premium Performance Lightener and 12%.
5
Can the cool toner cream be mixed with the lifting
base cream as well?
BLONDME Bleach & Tone is used for High Light
Techniques only. Full head retouch application is
not recommended due to the risk of overlapping
on the already bleached hair that can be stained
blue.
6
Will we achieve more lift when the bleach and
tone is processed for 60 mins?
Yes, but never recommend another processing
time other than the instructions as the hair
condition can be poor.
7
If the dark blue dyes are bleach resistant (direct
dyes), how do they produce lighter results?
The toner does not lift. The Lightening is
provided by the PPLightener.
8
On medium and dark natural levels, will cooler
results be achieved if more than 15ml of the cool
toner cream are used?
No, more Toner will reduce the lifting power and
there will be more orange to deal with! The
mixing ratios in the instructions have been
defined with many tests and should not be
changed!
9
Are the results affected if the 1:2.5 parts
developer-mixing ratio is used?
Yes, the toner will be diluted and the neutralizing
may be reduced. Again, the mixing ratios in the
instructions have been defined with many tests
and should not be changed. Also the consistency
might be quite liquid.
L
Lifting Cream
Question
Answer
1
Can you mix BLONDME Lifting cream with a
ratio 1:2 to get a stronger lifting effect?
Eventually a stronger lightening effect will
result when mixing 2 parts developer with 1
part Lifting cream; however the concentration
of colour pigments will be diluted, resulting in
less neutralisation, poorer colour result and
retention.
2
Is there a recommended mixing ratio when
mixing the Toner Cream with the Lifting
Cream?
BLONDME Toners can also be added for
individual shade creations.
Please keep 1:1 mixing ratio with Developer
Lotion, e.g.: 45g Lifting Ice + 15g Toner Steel
Blue and 60g Balsam Blonde Developer.
Heads up!: As more Toner you add as less
lifting effect you have!
3
What is the recommended Mixing ratio for
yellow/ orange neutralisation?
For additional orange neutralisation add Toner
Steel blue to the Lifting Ice
Please keep 1:1 mixing ratio with Developer
Lotion, e.g.: 45g Lifting Ice + 15g Toner Steel
Blue and 60g Balsam Blonde Developer.
Heads up!: As more Toner you add as less
lifting effect you have!
4
Is the colour direction of the BLONDME Lifting
shades comparable to the Highlift series of
IGORA Royal?
The colour direction is on purpose slightly
different to the IGORA Royal Blond shades
(Ice: 12-1; Sand: 12-01, Caramel: 12-45).
BLONDME is an emotional brand, all shades
should be described with words. Further more
this kind of colour description is easier to
understand for non SKP clients
Question
5
We claim 30 min. developing time for fine hair.
Will that time be enough to neutralize and
achieve a cool shade?
Answer
On finer hair it might be that 30 minutes will be
enough. Processing time 30-45 minutes
means that after 30 minutes, colour
development should be checked.
On one head, fine hair on hair line and thick
hair in the nape area needs different
processing time
On “normal” hair, 45 minutes is necessary to
achieve cool colour result
6
Why is the mixing ratio from BLONDME
Highlift shades 1:1 (vs Royal 1:2)?
Are the highlift shades comparable to the 12 series from IGORA Royal?
7
The concept 1:1 mixing ratio was chosen for 2
main reasons

Being simple, same mixing ratio for all
BLONDME colour products

The technology is slightly different
from 12-series, if compared to Royal it
would be closer to the 10 - series. The
colour result and the level of lift will be
achieved thanks to a different
Ammonia/H²O ratio (higher Ammonia
vs. lower oxidation).
What mixing is recommended to achieve a
result which is closed to the former result of:
The closest result to achieve with: 2 parts
Lifting Ice + 1 part Toner Steel blue.
1 part Lifting Base Cream + 1 part Additive
Steel blue?
E.g.: 45g Lifting Ice + 15g Toner Steel Blue
and 60g Balsam Blonde Developer.
Up to 1/3 of toner can be added to the lifting
cream.
Heads up!: As more Toner you add as less
lifting effect you have!
W
White Blending Cream
Question
1
We now claim ‘better coverage’.
1. Might that be the reason for 4 levels of lift,
instead of 5 levels before?
2. Do we have more pigments and dye stuffs
in the new formulation?
Answer
1. We increased the white hair blending
performance (request from the countries) and
this reduces slightly the lifting ability of the
product (4 levels instead of 5)
2. Due to the polymer technology more dye
stuff can penetrate the hair. This means a
better colour result, better coverage with the
same amount of pigments.
Due to the increased ammonia content the
equalization is better!
2
What would be an ideal mixing ratio of White
blending cream & Toner?
Best white blending is achieved by using the
White blending cream as It own.
White Blending Cream can also be mixed with
Toners
(Mixing ratio 3:1) e.g.: 45g White Blending
Cream + 15g Toner + 60g Balsam Blonde
Developer.
Heads up: The coverage of white hair is then
slightly reduced.
3
Is it possible to mix the Lifting Cream and the
White Blending Cream when having a low
white percentage?
It makes no sense to mix both Creams as they
both have lifting power (Lifting Cream up to 5
levels, White Blending Cream up to 4 levels).
PPL
1
Premium Performance Lightener
Question
Answer
Within BLONDME Premium Performance
The Anti Yellow Agents do not contain special
Lightener, Anti Yellow Agents are promoted.
ingredients – they are a special combination of
all-new, better-performing lightening
ingredients.
What are these special Ingredients and how
do
2
they work?
Due to the increased lightening performance,
we achieve a better Anti Yellow effect.
What mixing ratio provides the most effective
Bleach/Lightening powders provide the most
lifting power?
effective lifting due to their powerful oxidative
processes.
Staying within the instructed mixing ratio of
powder and developer (IGORA Vario Blond
Plus 1:2, BLONDME 1:1.5 - 1:2.5) is essential
for the best colour performance and for safe
results, to avoid harming the hair structure and
scalp.
For the same reason, processing time should
also never exceed the guidelines.
3
Why is the mixing ratio 1:2 specifically
mentioned
in some educational materials?
BLONDME lightening has a flexible mixing
ratio, which gives hairdressers the freedom to
mix the consistency free from regulation.
Nevertheless we decided to give a
recommendation (1:2) for the hairdresser who
prefers to have guidance.
This is why we wrote 1:2 within the education
material, to make it as easy as possible.
T
Toner Cream
Question
1
Answer
For the Toners we claim, ‘slightly increased
tone intensity’.
This is valid for the ‘strongest’ ones (Lilac,
Strawberry and Steel Blue).
Are all Toners more intense now?
All Toners are approximately 10-20% stronger
than the mixture of Tonal Base Cream and
Additive 1:1.
Strawberry is approx. as intense as the former
Additive Strawberry pure.
The more intense result is also supported on
polymer system.
2
What can I do, to achieve a stronger and more
intense colour direction?
(e.g. former additive pure)
It is possible to mix two parts toner with one
part developer in order to achieve stronger
colour directions.
e.g. 40 g Strawberry + 20 g Developer (2%)
3
Improved retention due to “supporting
polymers”.
1.

Acrylamidopropyltrimonium
Chloride/Acrylates Copolymer
1. Which polymers?

VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer
2. How does this work?

Polyquaternium-39

Apricot Kernel Oil

Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract
2.
Colour protective polymers Act as
colour locker and care system. They protect
colour pigments during rinsing after processing
time and when shampooed at home.
Ammonia content is less than ‘old’ BLONDME
4
Reduced ammonia content – less than before?

Toner cream: pH 9,5

Mixing: pH 8,5
(1:1 with 2% BLONDME Balsam
Developer)
5
How many washes do the toners last?
Retention is improved versus “old” BLONDME
thanks to new ingredients (Polymers & Oils)
The retention is not measurable it depends on
hair condition.
Heads up: Do not use Hot Straightening Irons
on recently coloured hair.
6
7
What exactly is the “care complex”?
How many levels of lift will i get when using
Toner + 6% on natural hair?
The care complex is the combination of
Keralumiere Complex and the polymers:

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract

Polyquaternium-39

Acrylamidopropyltrimonium
Chloride/Acrylates Copolymer

VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer
1 Level of lift (due to low Ammonia content)
Heads up:
We have no lightening affect any more when
using 2%.
8
Why is the developing time of the Toners been
extended to 15- 30 min?
This is just a guide line, a toner should always
be visually monitored, in particular the cool
shades ( as ice & steel blue).
9
Toners Sand and Caramel can be used as
“diluter”.
Yes, 1:2 with the Balsam Blond Developer 2%
does work.
Would a mixing ratio of 1:2 with the Balsam
Blond Developer 2% also work?
When mixing 1:2 with Balsam Blond
Developer, the colour direction will be kept, but
will look more translucent.
In classical mixing ratio 1:1 and in mixture with
the Toners Ice, Sand or Caramel as a diluter,
the character of the colour will change slightly.
BLONDME
OTC
Question
1
What is the size of keratin protein compared to
BC?
Answer
The size of the proteins is comparable.
This particular kind of keratin has a
standardized size.
(Only wheat protein has a smaller size)
2
Why are the Conditioner cool / warm taken out
of the assortment?
With the latest re-launch the concept of
BLONDME has changed. As we have realised
that no EC understood the cool/ warm concept
and in order to support the sales in the salon,
we decided to take a more EC orientated
approach.
As OTC products should always be easy to
understand for both, HD and EC, the concept
is now based on the needs of „highlighted“ or
‘highlifted’ hair.
3
As Blond Intense is corresponding Keratin
Restore Milk, why is then an additional
conditioner recommended? Is it in order to
improve the compatibility or because of the
pH-level?
The product is a new development, based on
the Keratin Restore Milk. For additional care
we have now the new Keralumière complex
within the whole care range.
Hair will be strengthened, not softer.
If the traditional ‘soft’ feeling is desired, use the
conditioner in addition.
The idea comes from BC Amino Fortifier.
4
Which consistency has the Ilumi Lights
Treatment?
This is a Gel-to-Mousse consistency is close to
BC Moisture Kick Recharger formula, but
contains additional Hydrolysed Silk.
5
What is the consistency of Blonde Refreshing
Foam Treatment?
It is a foam with a light-beige pigmentation.
Due to that small amount of refreshing
pigments, the colour will look fresh, healthy
and shiny.
6
7
For the All Blondes Shampoo we claim ‘leaves
a Champagne shine…’ Does it contain
pigments?
No, the All Blondes Shampoo does not contain
any dyestuff.
Is the control level of the Volume Cream
comparable to OSiS Upload?
The Volume Cream has a similar control level
as OSiS Upload. The Volume Cream provides
Volume and strength, without being too strong.
Due to special light silicones and Panthenol it
smoothes the hair surface.
It is comparable with the neutral Shampoo
from the former BLONDME